Just want to say thank u for taking the time to post this video... u saved me thousands of dollars my friend keep up the great work... I didn't have fancy dials n such but I did what u said 2 turns and messed with it and it seems to be going down the road... again thank u my friend ur a life saver
Really like what you did with this video, I had a spacer between the pinion race and housing on my 2011 and I just re-used it. Your video saved me 3K plus as the shops around me just wanted to swap out the entire rear end and wouldn't do the bearing job.
i destroyed that spacer when taking out the inner pinion bearing race. now idk if i should add shims of the same trhickness although it was on the crush sleve side of the bearing. I also didnt have a shim between the pinion and bearing. (2011 ram 1500)
Thank you man. You helped me out way more than you know. Finally got done with my 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 with a 9.25 3.21 rear end. So far no noise anywhere from 0-75 mph.
@@wyattoneable Ha ha, isn't it fun to see how much is available online these days, compared to just a few years ago? Problem is, confidence tends to rise more quickly than skills, which can present its own difficulties. Even the pros argue about the right way to do some of these tasks.
Thank you for this!! You explainedit extremely well and gave me the confidenceto do it myself. The hardest part will be acquiring all the tools. Time to get started!!
The tools alone for this job can be very costly ! I'm working on that myself... I need a 20 ton press (or 40), Bearing Driver Set (I've gotten by without now for nearly 30 years, but never did a rear-end either), Bearing seperater set, and a flex mount for my dial indicator.
great video, Chrysler dealer tech and I do a lot of diesel work, electrical and trans, suspension, etc. This is a great video for visual learning to help me master axle assembly rebuilds, thank you!
Awesome video... This guy is great.. I like the way he calls out the size of bolt it is and tells you exactly how to do the job.. Great work my friend..
The only other thing you should have checked is the pinion depth. You can do that 2 different ways. I use the easy way to check it. I use the yellow grease that you paint on the ring gear and then turn the pinion and watch where the pattern shows up on the ring gear. Or you can measure the pinion depth with a pinion depth tool. The contact should be in the middle of the ring gear tooth in all directions. If it's too deep or too far out you will have to add or remove shims. The other thing is I hardly ever use new crush sleeves. The old ones can be reused no matter what they tell you. NOT ALL THE TIME, but most times. Most times if you re use the pinion shims and the crush sleeve, the pinion depth will be ok.
I know it's been a year since you commented but just in case you see this I had a question about reusing the crush sleeve. I don't plan to pull the pinion gear (I should tho because the seal is leaking a very little bit) when I replace clutch packs later today in my '03 Dakota with 9.25, 12 bolt, 3.55...but with the driveshaft removed can I check and adjust the crush sleeve drag torque and look for 20-30 inch pounds? (I think that's what he said in the video?) I've been a mechanic of one type or another for 50 years but I've never worked on a diff. I'm more than a little reluctant. On the chance you see this and reply, Thank You!
@@gregoryking9348I can’t answer your question. But I have one. My clutch pack belville washers sheared in three places. If my gears are fine can I just do a clutch job ? Do they make just a clutch rebuild kit?
@dkeeton7 Yes! Absolutely. I bought both clutch packs on Amazon. The hardest part of the job was compressing the Bellville's and rolling in the planetary gears. I finding the right length bolts and the right number of thick washers to use on each clutch pack/axle gears to compress the Bellville's in order to roll the planetary gears back in. I ended up using one 1/2" X 6" and one 1/2" X 5 or 5.5" bolt as 'presses. Get 4 nuts and 8 thick 1/2" washers. Put one nut on the longest bolt and run it all the way up to almost all the way toward the head of the bolt. Then put 2 waahers on the shortest bolt and insert it from the inside the axle gear, thriugh the clutch pack, then add 2 washers and a nut on it and center the bolt and washers the best you can before tightening. Tighten it up and compress the Bellville. Don't go crazy but tighten it until you think the Bellville is losded up. Next thread a nut on the longer bolt almost to the head, add 2 washers, and insert it from the outside in. Add 2 thick washers and a nut. You'll only want the nut screwed on so the end of the bolt is flush with the nut. Use the nut on the outside to snug it up as you center the bolt in the bore of the axle gear/clutch pack the best you can. Then tighten it to compress the Bellville. * Both bolts can't be inserted from the inside (head of bolt inside carrier) because it's physically impossible. There simply isn't enough space.) I suggest first trying to roll the planetary gears in without the concave spacers. The meat on the new clutches doesn't leave any room to roll them in along with the gears. Use a good amount of gear oil while rolling in the gears. Once they're in (it is NOT a cake walk but be patient) then lube the concave shims and slide them in. Setting the lash is more of a patience thing than difficult. I bought the long tool on Amazon for about $20. If I had another pair of hands and a lift the process would have gone faster but I had to keep crawling out from under to adjust, remove/reinstall the tool...rinse and repeat. I ended up with more lash than spec of .005-.010 but I was plumb wore out. Don't forget you have to torque the carrier bearing caps and lash adjuster/lock rings over and over before getting an accurate lash measurement. It's exhausting to say the least. Then again, I'm 65.5 with a 4 time loser back and a body beat up from 50 years of heavy industry so there's that. lol One last thing...if you plan to replace the axle seals?...do yourself a favor and buy them on Amazon for about $20/ea. The dealer gets $50!!! Each! Good luck and be safe.
If you just need to replace the pinion seal, you know you must remove the driveshaft and the driveshaft yoke. Then use a seal puller tool or large screwdriver. They do make tools that help to install the new seal but I feel if you have worked on cars that long you know how to tap the new seal in place. I have a harbor freight chisel that I've grinded the point off of it. I use it to tap on the seal to install them. I have over the years made several tools for that purpose. To be totally honest with you I just turn my impact gun down in power and tighten the pinon yoke nut with some blue locktight on the treads and then see if it is binding in anyway. I haven't had a comeback. @@gregoryking9348
Very good video. I like how you went step by step. This was what I’m planning to do this weekend if all my parts are here by Friday. Thanks for the video man
Exactly how I did it all and it seemed perfect. First test drive everything was fine. Next day I get a roar on coast. Rechecked the back lash and tried tightening the crush sleeve a little more and it’s still roaring.
Love this guy.. thought he was Canadian at first. I gotta do my rear diff, same truck, good refresher.. like the way you fast forward through all the common knowledge stuff. Good video. Thanks
Hey Man, Superb job. Really I mean it and I never, ever write comments on these things. I gotta hand it to you that is a perfect job. I am a shop to your west in Dakota North!! I work on these things all the time also and one of my guys told me to check your video out, so I did and I just wanted to add my two cents and say what a great write up and video, have a great day!!
Thanks! Most technicians don't say anything unless they feel like being a critic. In fact they probably prefer not letting people know they watched a video at all. It's probably over 90% of my views. High view count, low subscribers. It's all good.
pro tip use hydraulic press to slighty initiate crush sleeve. So you dont have to use too much force when installing them. Also you can reuse old one if you happen to need more shims for the pinion. Second set of new bearings helps to get the job done quicker if you make bearings slide on and off without any pressing.
I was thinking of this 🤔 but it's funny 😁 you was holding diff cover in your hands and I thought it would slip and fall glue side own on floor 😅😅 I would love to hear you complain 😅😅😅
Very good video ! Im very fortunate i found your video! Thank you for taking your time to provide a very professional rebuild . If i ever have to rebuild i will remember your vid
He sounds almost normal when it’s at 1.25 speed. Also use the mopar orange axle rtv. Synthetic gear lube will eat through the grey rtv. Also use an inch pound dial indicator torque wrench to measure pinion preload. A click type will only measure break away torque, which will be much higher than turning torque, which is what they want to be measured. I’ve rebuilt hundreds of these at the dealership with no comebacks
I love it, you look it up, I don't care, reminds me of my wife cooking something got to get that right on the line in the measuring cup, experience is the best measurement.
Watched all, both parts. Excellent all totalled. Well done 👍. Hey, what / where is the info on how to check and change out the clutch packs in the LS carrier? Didn’t see you touch that in these vids.
Not sure if you still check your comments but I am working on rebuilding my 9.25 at the moment I took it apart a few months back and have all the new parts to reinstall but there is a spacer that was on the pinion and im at a lose to where the heck it goes it is 3432320 SHIM Drive Pinion Bearing 0.020 I am pretty sure it wasnt behind the rear pinoin bearing but any assistance would greatly be appreciatted
Great video. Keep up the good work. If I may suggest, put on some work shoes so when you drop a pry bar or hammer on your foot you don't break any bones. Awesome job!
not a fan of the crush sleeves, mine failed at around 100k, the crush washer delete kit is awesome. Its a bit of work to shim the pinion but its worth the effort
I take it that is a special tool to reach in the axle tubes and turn the bearing adjusters? Looks like that's the only thing special I'll need to do this job to my friends PU.
Whats the purpose of tightening the pinion nut on without the pinion seal on? is it just to make sure the races and bearings are fully seated first? couldn't you still do that with the Pinion seal on it?
I had to replace an axle seal and pinion seal. Forgot to put pin back in to keep spiders in place. Rotating shaft to remove bolts and spiders worked themselves out. Now I can't get them back in. Too tight and not enough clearance for spiders and thrust washers. Can't seem to push in side gears to allow spiders to sit lower on side gears. Any suggestions before I pull carrier out?
Thanks for the part 2 video. Though I think I’m not going to attempt to do my diff job I’m going to find some shop or since mines a 00 2x2 maybe just get a good used one maybe? Thanks enjoyed it.
replacing all my bearing in my 14 with 9.25 rearend. question is where did you get your bearings. I have been to 5 part store amd not one has the right ones and no one can find the inner pinion bearing or race
You can. I didn't bother, because I didn't replace ring, pinion, and carrier stuff. Unless those parts are extremely wore, or I got stupid, and put the wrong shims in the pinion, replacing bearings will not change how the gears mesh.
Hey I have a question if this was the right videos, but If I remember u said the diff was still howling after you replacement the bearings. My question is I have my ram in the shop and they took a look and said my bearing were fine, but before I took it to the shop my ram wow howl loud. So with information is it fine if it howls?
This video is awesome. I have an 07 Ram 1500 and a 08 Ram 1500 and both of them need rear differentials I want to repair them but I don't have the special tools to get the job done. How should I go about fixing the tears on the 2 trucks
@@pjshandymanservices7909 Bad can mean a lot of things. If you need a ring, pinion, and carrier, you might be better off to just get used differentials with the same gear ratios, and put in the whole thing.
if its a posi, how do the C clips go in and out on the back side of the axle. Thanks for the very helpful video and keep up the good work. sorry if i'm not making enough sense.
Most trac-lok type carriers have one hole on the carrier where you can take out the clips, and the hole opposite if it, you can not, because there are bars, and gizmos in the way.
Super video. But I don't understand why some poeple of Minnesota like here in Québec doesn't use their emergen cy brake. They probably doen't know anything about drive line premature failiure and the risk to break transmission parking pawl and the consequences.
I know like you, the rust issue just like here in Québec. We use a LOT salt on our roads. But it is a matter of using your emergency brake every day and also, maintaining seriously you vehicule. Each year when it's time to change summer to winter tires, I clean and lubricate moving parts on my calipers. Anti-ware clip, sliding pin, pad contact points. I'm a 40 years experienced industrial mechanic( millwright ) and I have always did my own maintenance. If emergency linkage is well lubricated and clean, if the rubber plug is water tight, you minimise having trouble a you know. But with Ram truck, I did last year my friend's brake and yes, the rear emergency's lining went of on both wheels. It is a bonding issue. They were thick but loose. It is a real problem and my friend use is emergency brake everyday. Just like me. Keep-on your excellent work sir! It is a real pleasure to watch you.
Great vid! Pinion seal was leaking on my ‘06 Ram 1500 RWD. Went to replace it and found that pinion nut was loose causing a lot of play. Are all these diffs the same torque spec? Thanks in advance!
You mean the turning torque? 9.25" probably. Best to look it up. Might want to tighten up the nut, and check the clearances to make sure you are right. Then get a new nut.
hi there, your job seems pretty good and i 'm researching to try and re gear my 17 by myself, only thins that worry me is that backlash... could it be possible to install the gear without having to remove/ adjust the side axles ? cause it seem easy enough to do but i'm really not about using precision tools to measure the play in it..thank you in advance and good job !
If you are replacing the gears, checking backlash, and gear mesh is critical. You will need to adjust the carrier, and if the gear mesh is wrong, you will need to take the pinion back out, and add or remove shims behind the bearing. they are usually the same shims, but once in a while you need to.
Looking to add a Yukon duragrip locking differential to my 2012 ram 1500. Is this going to be the same 9.25 as my 2012? I shouldn’t have to change anything with my pinion correct? Just my ring gear and center section?
Great vid, just one question, when you were seating the front bearing with the breaker bar, wouldn't that have crushed the crush sleeve? I thought you couldn't back off of it at all once it was crushed.
The crush sleeve is made to be crushed in order to keep both bearings at an even pressure. Once it is crushed, it cannot be uncrushed, and needs to be replaced if it has been crushed too much. When you are preloading the bearing with a torque wrench, and if you happen to go a little too far by a few pounds, you can back it off a little, and the sleeve should remain properly crushed. It is actually fairly difficult to crush that sleeve past the seated position of the bearings, and races since the recommended preload is tighter than zero.
took me a while to figure it out... the bar is keeping it from turning so the nut is getting crushed, then you take the bar out, and put so many inch/lbs on it to turn the pinion to make sure that its the correct amount of crushed. if its light on inch/lbs to turn it, crush it some more by putting a bar back through it and an impact on the pinion nut.
Yes. I used the same gears, and shims, so didn't bother. When I do them this way, the mesh always comes out right. The gears would need to be soo worn, I would need to replace them for the mesh to be off enough. This truck is still running. It's his daily driver too.
Just wondering if you could help me. I have a 2001 Dodge Durango and I thought I’d do something nice like change the rear diff fluid. I took the cover off and it looked really grungy. I was surprised cause I had taken to the dealer (mistake) 2 years ago for all fluids to be changed so I thought this would be just an easy thing. All the bolts were really hard to get off, one on the top required a breaker bar, any way. I got the cover off. Inside the was a lot of metal shavings but the big one literally was 2 pieces of a flat type metal . One chunk about the size of a nickel the other about 2/4 of a circle of something that could be a washer that went somewhere. The truck was running fine, I wasn’t hearing any kind of noises in the rear end and the splines didn’t looked banged up, which surprised me. Can I just refill it and drive it as is till it dies? Will that disintegrate the whole rear diff? Is it worth fixing? The blue book on this truck is like $1000. 00, ironically I just put new tires on cause the others were dry rotted . Your video is really excellent, but I just don’t have the skills for that kind of work or the tools. Thanks
Sounds like carrier parts. Probably what was once an LSD. Write this day on your calender, and see how long the dingo lasts. The only thing to loose is a dingo.
@@RustBeltAuto I finished it today. No idea if it’ll work long term. I cleaned it out really well and replaced the cover with a gasket, not RTV goop. Filled it with the fluid and drove it a few miles and it felt fine and sounded fine. Thank you for your video and your answers, I really appreciate it. I’m a senior citizen Not afraid to try and do some basic things and with the help of videos like yours I have completed many successful repairs and maintenance on not just our older trucks but our new ones too.
I suppose you should. I did not replace ring, pinion, shims, or carrier, so didn't bother. Every time I just replace bearings, and check backlash, when the gears look nice, the mesh is perfect.
I went to John Deere and purchased a nut that would fit in a 36mm socket. Made my tool and works greats. Thank you for the video and the response. Keep warm. It's getting chili in MN.
What do you do when you tighten the bolts to 100 foot pounds an you dont have the 6 thousand of an inch clearance anymore. I tighten the bearing adjusters everything was good then I tighten the bolts to 100 foot pounds an I have no play now.
Loosen the cap on the left I think, loosen the adjuster on the left a little, torque the cap back down, and check it again. You have one adjuster that is too tight, and I think it's the left.
hello i broke my rear diff 3.92 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi I can not find same model the country where I live I found something else 3.21 My question to you is whether you will will it work?
If it is 2wd yes. 4wd will need the correct ring and pinion. Front, and rear differential gear ratios need to match. Front diff is usually .01-.02:1 numerical ratio higher.
@@RustBeltAuto thank you very much ❤️can i change rear and front differential in a set from another dodge ram 1500 …215 mm front axle 3.21 rear axle to my dodge ram 5.7 hemi 3.92 rear axle ratio front 215 mm axle - 235mm rear axle ?? sorry for my english 🙏
@@RustBeltAuto okay, only reason why i ask is being i am using your video as a guide to redo my rear in my 2015 ram with the 9.25 rear, as we currently speak. i am at the point where i am putting adjusting for backlash and setting the adjusters. thanks for the video though! been a great help
My papers say 30ft lbs, Chrysler 9.25 + Corporate 12 bolt. I hear you though, maybe 24 is a little more comfortable and a dab of red.. lol. Though, I would use 1\4" on it so I'm extra careful.
trying to do the limited slip clutches and when I loosened the 8mm pin holder all of it didn't come out does this mean it's done for or is there a way to get the broken piece out thanks
This is not a limited slip differential. It was not needed. I put 75w140 in it that has friction modifier in the oil anyways. I usually always put gear oil with friction modifiers in axles regardless. If you think you need friction modifiers and do not get gear oil with it already in there, just use one little bottle.
If I was me, I would blow it out with compressed air, and whack the yoke with a socket on it with a hammer, to make sure the bearings and races are seated correctly. It should align everything up If something is binding.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks for the tip. I rebuilt it and then tore it down to find uneven pattern on races. The originals had uneven pattern as well. Setup bearings and new bearings all have nochy feel to them. I even cleaned up burs on the seat to no avail. I'm thinking the pumkin is messed up.
I was not expecting this dude to be rocking sandals, what a legend
Just want to say thank u for taking the time to post this video... u saved me thousands of dollars my friend keep up the great work... I didn't have fancy dials n such but I did what u said 2 turns and messed with it and it seems to be going down the road... again thank u my friend ur a life saver
Really like what you did with this video, I had a spacer between the pinion race and housing on my 2011 and I just re-used it. Your video saved me 3K plus as the shops around me just wanted to swap out the entire rear end and wouldn't do the bearing job.
i destroyed that spacer when taking out the inner pinion bearing race. now idk if i should add shims of the same trhickness although it was on the crush sleve side of the bearing. I also didnt have a shim between the pinion and bearing. (2011 ram 1500)
Thanks to you, first time pulling and rebuilding the rear end was a success. 6hrs while at work. Can't beat that.
You're welcome.
Thank you man. You helped me out way more than you know. Finally got done with my 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 with a 9.25 3.21 rear end. So far no noise anywhere from 0-75 mph.
This video, finally, brought me to a new plateau in terms of understanding how and why this is being done. Thanks!
Good to see you here. Guess what job I'm taking on next in the garage?
@@wyattoneable Ha ha, isn't it fun to see how much is available online these days, compared to just a few years ago? Problem is, confidence tends to rise more quickly than skills, which can present its own difficulties. Even the pros argue about the right way to do some of these tasks.
Thank you for this!! You explainedit extremely well and gave me the confidenceto do it myself. The hardest part will be acquiring all the tools. Time to get started!!
The tools alone for this job can be very costly !
I'm working on that myself... I need a 20 ton press (or 40), Bearing Driver Set (I've gotten by without now for nearly 30 years, but never did a rear-end either), Bearing seperater set, and a flex mount for my dial indicator.
Harbor freight has everything and it’s all equality enough I’m setting my backlash as I type
great video, Chrysler dealer tech and I do a lot of diesel work, electrical and trans, suspension, etc. This is a great video for visual learning to help me master axle assembly rebuilds, thank you!
Awesome video... This guy is great.. I like the way he calls out the size of bolt it is and tells you exactly how to do the job.. Great work my friend..
The only other thing you should have checked is the pinion depth. You can do that 2 different ways. I use the easy way to check it. I use the yellow grease that you paint on the ring gear and then turn the pinion and watch where the pattern shows up on the ring gear. Or you can measure the pinion depth with a pinion depth tool. The contact should be in the middle of the ring gear tooth in all directions. If it's too deep or too far out you will have to add or remove shims. The other thing is I hardly ever use new crush sleeves. The old ones can be reused no matter what they tell you. NOT ALL THE TIME, but most times. Most times if you re use the pinion shims and the crush sleeve, the pinion depth will be ok.
I know it's been a year since you commented but just in case you see this I had a question about reusing the crush sleeve. I don't plan to pull the pinion gear (I should tho because the seal is leaking a very little bit) when I replace clutch packs later today in my '03 Dakota with 9.25, 12 bolt, 3.55...but with the driveshaft removed can I check and adjust the crush sleeve drag torque and look for 20-30 inch pounds? (I think that's what he said in the video?)
I've been a mechanic of one type or another for 50 years but I've never worked on a diff. I'm more than a little reluctant.
On the chance you see this and reply, Thank You!
@@gregoryking9348I can’t answer your question. But I have one. My clutch pack belville washers sheared in three places. If my gears are fine can I just do a clutch job ? Do they make just a clutch rebuild kit?
@dkeeton7 Yes! Absolutely. I bought both clutch packs on Amazon.
The hardest part of the job was compressing the Bellville's and rolling in the planetary gears. I finding the right length bolts and the right number of thick washers to use on each clutch pack/axle gears to compress the Bellville's in order to roll the planetary gears back in. I ended up using one 1/2" X 6" and one 1/2" X 5 or 5.5" bolt as 'presses. Get 4 nuts and 8 thick 1/2" washers. Put one nut on the longest bolt and run it all the way up to almost all the way toward the head of the bolt. Then put 2 waahers on the shortest bolt and insert it from the inside the axle gear, thriugh the clutch pack, then add 2 washers and a nut on it and center the bolt and washers the best you can before tightening. Tighten it up and compress the Bellville. Don't go crazy but tighten it until you think the Bellville is losded up.
Next thread a nut on the longer bolt almost to the head, add 2 washers, and insert it from the outside in. Add 2 thick washers and a nut. You'll only want the nut screwed on so the end of the bolt is flush with the nut. Use the nut on the outside to snug it up as you center the bolt in the bore of the axle gear/clutch pack the best you can. Then tighten it to compress the Bellville.
* Both bolts can't be inserted from the inside (head of bolt inside carrier) because it's physically impossible. There simply isn't enough space.)
I suggest first trying to roll the planetary gears in without the concave spacers. The meat on the new clutches doesn't leave any room to roll them in along with the gears. Use a good amount of gear oil while rolling in the gears. Once they're in (it is NOT a cake walk but be patient) then lube the concave shims and slide them in.
Setting the lash is more of a patience thing than difficult. I bought the long tool on Amazon for about $20.
If I had another pair of hands and a lift the process would have gone faster but I had to keep crawling out from under to adjust, remove/reinstall the tool...rinse and repeat. I ended up with more lash than spec of .005-.010 but I was plumb wore out.
Don't forget you have to torque the carrier bearing caps and lash adjuster/lock rings over and over before getting an accurate lash measurement. It's exhausting to say the least. Then again, I'm 65.5 with a 4 time loser back and a body beat up from 50 years of heavy industry so there's that. lol
One last thing...if you plan to replace the axle seals?...do yourself a favor and buy them on Amazon for about $20/ea. The dealer gets $50!!! Each!
Good luck and be safe.
If you just need to replace the pinion seal, you know you must remove the driveshaft and the driveshaft yoke. Then use a seal puller tool or large screwdriver. They do make tools that help to install the new seal but I feel if you have worked on cars that long you know how to tap the new seal in place. I have a harbor freight chisel that I've grinded the point off of it. I use it to tap on the seal to install them. I have over the years made several tools for that purpose. To be totally honest with you I just turn my impact gun down in power and tighten the pinon yoke nut with some blue locktight on the treads and then see if it is binding in anyway. I haven't had a comeback. @@gregoryking9348
Very good video. I like how you went step by step. This was what I’m planning to do this weekend if all my parts are here by Friday. Thanks for the video man
Thanks for watching!
Exactly how I did it all and it seemed perfect. First test drive everything was fine. Next day I get a roar on coast. Rechecked the back lash and tried tightening the crush sleeve a little more and it’s still roaring.
@@oldrango883have you corrected your issue yet? it sounds like pinion depth is off.
Because of this video, I was able to do my own truck. Thank you so much.
Amy problems since you did the truck
@@patrickhamilton1617 not at all, it took a long time for me to get the proper tolerance but I finally did it. Thank you again for your video.
Love this guy.. thought he was Canadian at first. I gotta do my rear diff, same truck, good refresher.. like the way you fast forward through all the common knowledge stuff. Good video. Thanks
Welcome!
Thanks for the video, helped me alot doing my Dodge, 👍
I just finished my 2004 Dif rebuild. Thanks so much for this video. You saved my bacon...
You are welcome!
Hey Man, Superb job. Really I mean it and I never, ever write comments on these things. I gotta hand it to you that is a perfect job. I am a shop to your west in Dakota North!! I work on these things all the time also and one of my guys told me to check your video out, so I did and I just wanted to add my two cents and say what a great write up and video, have a great day!!
Thanks! Most technicians don't say anything unless they feel like being a critic. In fact they probably prefer not letting people know they watched a video at all. It's probably over 90% of my views. High view count, low subscribers. It's all good.
Nice job, not easy to work with a camera in your way. This really helped.
pro tip use hydraulic press to slighty initiate crush sleeve. So you dont have to use too much force when installing them. Also you can reuse old one if you happen to need more shims for the pinion. Second set of new bearings helps to get the job done quicker if you make bearings slide on and off without any pressing.
I was going to replace my pinion bering myself. Now I'm thinking dang it. This looks technical!
Very good video going to attempt this Saturday
I like your style my friend. I am getting ready to do this job on my 1992 ramcharger. thank you for making this videos
One of the best illustrations ever. I like the fact during the whole thing you weren’t trying to tell everybody how smart you are.LOL
Humans are stupid.
those holes on both sides of the pumpkin are for adjusting backlash.. where the cover bolts are
I was thinking of this 🤔 but it's funny 😁 you was holding diff cover in your hands and I thought it would slip and fall glue side own on floor 😅😅 I would love to hear you complain 😅😅😅
Great tutorial! no bs, not too long. Good job.
That was great sir thanks for the post doing mine this week
Excellent tutorial. Very helpful indeed.
Glad I found this
Thanks for watching driver Jay.
Very good video ! Im very fortunate i found your video! Thank you for taking your time to provide a very professional rebuild . If i ever have to rebuild i will remember your vid
Thanks again dude.
I like your shop. It's small, cozy, warm . . . and did I hear you say you're in Minnesota ?
EXCELLENT video,
Thank you.
Excellent video. Keep them coming.
Awesome coverage thank you..
He sounds almost normal when it’s at 1.25 speed. Also use the mopar orange axle rtv. Synthetic gear lube will eat through the grey rtv. Also use an inch pound dial indicator torque wrench to measure pinion preload. A click type will only measure break away torque, which will be much higher than turning torque, which is what they want to be measured. I’ve rebuilt hundreds of these at the dealership with no comebacks
Agreed.
Makes my job alot easier. Thanks man.
I love it, you look it up, I don't care, reminds me of my wife cooking something got to get that right on the line in the measuring cup, experience is the best measurement.
Watched all, both parts. Excellent all totalled. Well done 👍. Hey, what / where is the info on how to check and change out the clutch packs in the LS carrier? Didn’t see you touch that in these vids.
Ya. You're gonna need a different vid or something for that.
Not sure if you still check your comments but I am working on rebuilding my 9.25 at the moment I took it apart a few months back and have all the new parts to reinstall but there is a spacer that was on the pinion and im at a lose to where the heck it goes it is 3432320 SHIM Drive Pinion Bearing 0.020 I am pretty sure it wasnt behind the rear pinoin bearing but any assistance would greatly be appreciatted
Great video. Keep up the good work. If I may suggest, put on some work shoes so when you drop a pry bar or hammer on your foot you don't break any bones. Awesome job!
not a fan of the crush sleeves, mine failed at around 100k, the crush washer delete kit is awesome.
Its a bit of work to shim the pinion but its worth the effort
Great video I fill I can't do this on my Dodge,wish you where in Va
I take it that is a special tool to reach in the axle tubes and turn the bearing adjusters? Looks like that's the only thing special I'll need to do this job to my friends PU.
Ya. I made that from an axle nut, and pressed a socket into it. There are ones you can buy though. Usually mail order.
Hell of a job Sir!!
Whats the purpose of tightening the pinion nut on without the pinion seal on? is it just to make sure the races and bearings are fully seated first? couldn't you still do that with the Pinion seal on it?
nice and simple great job I never see anyone use the gaskets for the covers only the gasket sealer, is that the preferred method?
Do you need to paint the gears and look for a pattern
I had to replace an axle seal and pinion seal. Forgot to put pin back in to keep spiders in place. Rotating shaft to remove bolts and spiders worked themselves out. Now I can't get them back in. Too tight and not enough clearance for spiders and thrust washers. Can't seem to push in side gears to allow spiders to sit lower on side gears. Any suggestions before I pull carrier out?
Thanks for the part 2 video. Though I think I’m not going to attempt to do my diff job I’m going to find some shop or since mines a 00 2x2 maybe just get a good used one maybe? Thanks enjoyed it.
replacing all my bearing in my 14 with 9.25 rearend. question is where did you get your bearings. I have been to 5 part store amd not one has the right ones and no one can find the inner pinion bearing or race
Touque to German specs. LoL.
You always know a real mechanic when he knows what to torque and what to tighten.
Nice work. Great video. Thanks.
Thank you this video really helps with my project. Mine looks to be the exact same, any difference in a 1977 model?
You might see slight variations in all Dana axles.
Thanks from Canada.Im working on one too.
Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Do you still have to check pinion pattern on the ring gear or not? Great video, Straight forward easy to follow, Thank you !
You can. I didn't bother, because I didn't replace ring, pinion, and carrier stuff. Unless those parts are extremely wore, or I got stupid, and put the wrong shims in the pinion, replacing bearings will not change how the gears mesh.
@@RustBeltAuto Thanks for the reply. Ill let you know how it turns out.Happy New Year !!
You should always recheck the pattern to be safe. A few extra minutes is worth it..
Are the yokes interchangeable on the pinion, from the older u joint style to the flat coupler type ?
I don't know.
You didn't add friction modifier that will destroy the limited slip clutches
This did not have an LSD carrier.
No wonder my mechanic didn't want this job *
What tool is being used on those 2 long extensions. What socket. Someone please help
I made one from an axle nut, but there is one you can buy.
Hey I have a question if this was the right videos, but If I remember u said the diff was still howling after you replacement the bearings. My question is I have my ram in the shop and they took a look and said my bearing were fine, but before I took it to the shop my ram wow howl loud. So with information is it fine if it howls?
This diff did not howl. Make sure your tires are not cupped, or noisey. It shouldn't make noise.
Hey great video thank you I didn't catch the torque on the 8mm bolt that holds the carrier rod in? Thanks again
I used a wrench, and tapped it with a hammer a couple times. hard to get a torque wrench in there.
9:00
Pkay we did the 75 each, then did the 100 foot lbs on the 4 collar bolts but it doesnt move, what do we do?
@@adrianjacobs1996 I don't know. Ya must have done something.
This video is awesome.
I have an 07 Ram 1500 and a 08 Ram 1500 and both of them need rear differentials
I want to repair them but I don't have the special tools to get the job done.
How should I go about fixing the tears on the 2 trucks
You need a new ring and pinion?
@@RustBeltAuto
I dont know what it that I need. But I do know the rear differential on the 2 trucks are bad.
@@pjshandymanservices7909 Bad can mean a lot of things. If you need a ring, pinion, and carrier, you might be better off to just get used differentials with the same gear ratios, and put in the whole thing.
if its a posi, how do the C clips go in and out on the back side of the axle. Thanks for the very helpful video and keep up the good work. sorry if i'm not making enough sense.
Most trac-lok type carriers have one hole on the carrier where you can take out the clips, and the hole opposite if it, you can not, because there are bars, and gizmos in the way.
Very Helpful.
Good vid...what tonnage press did you use? I need to get one and rebuild my Dodge 1500 Rear End this winter.
I think it's 20 ton. Harbor freight h frame. Good deal on those.
Super video. But I don't understand why some poeple of Minnesota like here in Québec doesn't use their emergen
cy brake. They probably doen't know anything about drive line premature failiure and the risk to break transmission parking pawl and the consequences.
They rust really bad, and become inoperable, mostly because it is never used.
I know like you, the rust issue just like here in Québec. We use a LOT salt on our roads. But it is a matter of using your emergency brake every day and also, maintaining seriously you vehicule. Each year when it's time to change summer to winter tires, I clean and lubricate moving parts on my calipers. Anti-ware clip, sliding pin, pad contact points. I'm a 40 years experienced industrial mechanic( millwright ) and I have always did my own maintenance. If emergency linkage is well lubricated and clean, if the rubber plug is water tight, you minimise having trouble a you know. But with Ram truck, I did last year my friend's brake and yes, the rear emergency's lining went of on both wheels. It is a bonding issue. They were thick but loose. It is a real problem and my friend use is emergency brake everyday. Just like me.
Keep-on your excellent work sir! It is a real pleasure to watch you.
Great vid! Pinion seal was leaking on my ‘06 Ram 1500 RWD. Went to replace it and found that pinion nut was loose causing a lot of play. Are all these diffs the same torque spec? Thanks in advance!
You mean the turning torque? 9.25" probably. Best to look it up. Might want to tighten up the nut, and check the clearances to make sure you are right. Then get a new nut.
hi there, your job seems pretty good and i 'm researching to try and re gear my 17 by myself, only thins that worry me is that backlash... could it be possible to install the gear without having to remove/ adjust the side axles ? cause it seem easy enough to do but i'm really not about using precision tools to measure the play in it..thank you in advance and good job !
If you are replacing the gears, checking backlash, and gear mesh is critical. You will need to adjust the carrier, and if the gear mesh is wrong, you will need to take the pinion back out, and add or remove shims behind the bearing. they are usually the same shims, but once in a while you need to.
im having trouble the pin is going rubbing with ring did u have to get a different guide pin...installing 4.56s on dodge ram 1500 3.7
I did not change the ring, and pinion, or carrier on this job. Just the bearings. Are you sure you don't need a different carrier?
Awesome vids brother
Tanks!
Looking to add a Yukon duragrip locking differential to my 2012 ram 1500. Is this going to be the same 9.25 as my 2012? I shouldn’t have to change anything with my pinion correct? Just my ring gear and center section?
I don't know. If I was me, I would look at a new one, and see what fitment it has.
Great vid, just one question, when you were seating the front bearing with the breaker bar, wouldn't that have crushed the crush sleeve? I thought you couldn't back off of it at all once it was crushed.
The crush sleeve is made to be crushed in order to keep both bearings at an even pressure. Once it is crushed, it cannot be uncrushed, and needs to be replaced if it has been crushed too much. When you are preloading the bearing with a torque wrench, and if you happen to go a little too far by a few pounds, you can back it off a little, and the sleeve should remain properly crushed. It is actually fairly difficult to crush that sleeve past the seated position of the bearings, and races since the recommended preload is tighter than zero.
took me a while to figure it out... the bar is keeping it from turning so the nut is getting crushed, then you take the bar out, and put so many inch/lbs on it to turn the pinion to make sure that its the correct amount of crushed. if its light on inch/lbs to turn it, crush it some more by putting a bar back through it and an impact on the pinion nut.
How did you know how many shims to put in before you pressed on that pinion bearing?
I used the original shims.
So you got the exact same bearings?@@RustBeltAuto
@@joebradley1520 ya
Nice Buddy
You skipped a very important step....you didn't check if the gears meshed right ?
Yes. I used the same gears, and shims, so didn't bother. When I do them this way, the mesh always comes out right. The gears would need to be soo worn, I would need to replace them for the mesh to be off enough. This truck is still running. It's his daily driver too.
Where do you buy your safety sandals , I'd like to get me a pair ? I'm sick and tired of heavy boots with steel toe and metatarsal plates...
Sportsman's Guide.
Should the pinion spin free like it did before you torqued it down or does the 15-30 inch pound have more resistance than that?
When the crush sleeve, and everything is new, it should have that resistance. It will free up a little used.
@@RustBeltAuto thank you for the quick response!! Almost have this done and your videos were key for me. Thanks a ton!!
Just wondering if you could help me. I have a 2001 Dodge Durango and I thought I’d do something nice like change the rear diff fluid. I took the cover off and it looked really grungy. I was surprised cause I had taken to the dealer (mistake) 2 years ago for all fluids to be changed so I thought this would be just an easy thing. All the bolts were really hard to get off, one on the top required a breaker bar, any way. I got the cover off. Inside the was a lot of metal shavings but the big one literally was 2 pieces of a flat type metal . One chunk about the size of a nickel the other about 2/4 of a circle of something that could be a washer that went somewhere. The truck was running fine, I wasn’t hearing any kind of noises in the rear end and the splines didn’t looked banged up, which surprised me. Can I just refill it and drive it as is till it dies? Will that disintegrate the whole rear diff? Is it worth fixing? The blue book on this truck is like $1000. 00, ironically I just put new tires on cause the others were dry rotted .
Your video is really excellent, but I just don’t have the skills for that kind of work or the tools. Thanks
Sounds like carrier parts. Probably what was once an LSD. Write this day on your calender, and see how long the dingo lasts. The only thing to loose is a dingo.
@@RustBeltAuto what is an LSD?
Or in other words fill it an go with it?
@@Cocora22 Limited slip differential. parts in the carrier that make both tires work instead of one.
@@RustBeltAuto I finished it today. No idea if it’ll work long term. I cleaned it out really well and replaced the cover with a gasket, not RTV goop. Filled it with the fluid and drove it a few miles and it felt fine and sounded fine. Thank you for your video and your answers, I really appreciate it. I’m a senior citizen Not afraid to try and do some basic things and with the help of videos like yours I have completed many successful repairs and maintenance on not just our older trucks but our new ones too.
Torque specs are German for the drive shaft goodentight
I was thinking of doing my own diff... now I'm not so sure
What about the paint on the ring gear to check the pattern? Dont need to fo that on the chrysler?
I suppose you should. I did not replace ring, pinion, shims, or carrier, so didn't bother. Every time I just replace bearings, and check backlash, when the gears look nice, the mesh is perfect.
Your carrier bearing tightening tool, what size of a nut is welded on the end of it? I see that you made the tool.
I don't know. Took it out of my spare nut bin. I have a bunch of old axle nuts.
I went to John Deere and purchased a nut that would fit in a 36mm socket. Made my tool and works greats. Thank you for the video and the response. Keep warm. It's getting chili in MN.
What state are you in, friend?
MN
What do you do when you tighten the bolts to 100 foot pounds an you dont have the 6 thousand of an inch clearance anymore. I tighten the bearing adjusters everything was good then I tighten the bolts to 100 foot pounds an I have no play now.
Loosen the cap on the left I think, loosen the adjuster on the left a little, torque the cap back down, and check it again. You have one adjuster that is too tight, and I think it's the left.
@@RustBeltAuto I torque the center caps to 100 ft lbs after I got my backlash then set my adjusters to 75 ft lbs an it was perfect
What was the tool used inside axle tube to adjust the ring gear backlash?
It's a Differential Deflecting Bearing Preload Wrench. I made mine from an axle nut.
Where are you from in Minnesota. My over my Fargo Nd.
White Bear Lake.
I didn’t catch what size the adjusters are inside the axle tube?
And I forgot.
if Im jsut doing a pinion seal replacement with everything else assembled, how do i know the nut is the right tightness?
Mark the nut, and pinion, count the threads, and put it on in the same spot. Maybe just a hair thickness more.
hello i broke my rear diff 3.92 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi I can not find same model the country where I live I found something else 3.21 My question to you is whether you will will it work?
If it is 2wd yes. 4wd will need the correct ring and pinion. Front, and rear differential gear ratios need to match. Front diff is usually .01-.02:1 numerical ratio higher.
@@RustBeltAuto thank you very much ❤️can i change rear and front differential in a set from another dodge ram 1500 …215 mm front axle 3.21 rear axle to my dodge ram 5.7 hemi 3.92 rear axle ratio front 215 mm axle - 235mm rear axle ?? sorry for my english 🙏
@@bbd4eb if the shoe fits, and the ratios match, you can. The speedometer might be a little off.
I noticed you didn't go over pattern, is this rear not having to have the pattern rechecked?
You always can recheck. Don't see the need, just replacing bearings only. The pinion depth doesn't change.
@@RustBeltAuto okay, only reason why i ask is being i am using your video as a guide to redo my rear in my 2015 ram with the 9.25 rear, as we currently speak. i am at the point where i am putting adjusting for backlash and setting the adjusters. thanks for the video though! been a great help
Where in Minnesota are you? Great video, thank you.
Twin cities.
@@RustBeltAuto I'm in Burnsville, how can I get ahold of you?
@@mrlow71 you can't.
Differential cover 30ft lbs.
Driveshaft yoke\pinion flange 4 bolts m12x1.75x30 at 85ft lbs.
Pin lock bolt = 9ft lb, red loctite.
Woot.
Pretty sure 30lbs for the cover bolts is a little much. I'm thinking like 14lbs?
My papers say 30ft lbs, Chrysler 9.25 + Corporate 12 bolt. I hear you though, maybe 24 is a little more comfortable and a dab of red.. lol.
Though, I would use 1\4" on it so I'm extra careful.
@@RustBeltAuto It does appear that you sank them to about 25 with the gun. Should be fine ; )
at 6:53 the bolts have to be tight?
Did you tighten both adjusters to 75ft lbs?
I think so.
You used the number 2 brown goo for the axle seals ?😂😂
Torqued to "be creative" love that 🤣🤣
Which way does the C lock face? It has a rounded side.
I don't know.
@@RustBeltAuto well I put them with the round edge facing the tires. Hope she holds. I figured the force should be on the flat side.
@@beforeadamIwas I'm sure it will be fine.
trying to do the limited slip clutches and when I loosened the 8mm pin holder all of it didn't come out does this mean it's done for or is there a way to get the broken piece out thanks
The pin is broke in the carrier?
I got it out long drill bit used the broken bolt as a guide (drilled hole in it) then a easy out thanks for your response
What model Axle is this considered. I have a 2004 Ram 1500 4x4 and want to know if you add a friction modifier and how much?
This is not a limited slip differential. It was not needed. I put 75w140 in it that has friction modifier in the oil anyways. I usually always put gear oil with friction modifiers in axles regardless. If you think you need friction modifiers and do not get gear oil with it already in there, just use one little bottle.
Thanks for the info and fast response. I will add some since I used the Mopar 75w140 without the additive.
Did you install a shim behind the first race?
Yes. I needed to use the original shims. Otherwise the gear mesh would be wrong.
How fast can you do one of these without cameras in the way?
When I worked for A-holes in the industry, I was really good, and super fly. I don't need to put myself through that kind of abuse anymore.
Good video. Did you notice any notchy or jerky feeling while spinning the pinion during preload check?
Nope. Smooth. Might have a little crud in there.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks for the reply. I'll let my driveline guy figure it out.
If I was me, I would blow it out with compressed air, and whack the yoke with a socket on it with a hammer, to make sure the bearings and races are seated correctly. It should align everything up If something is binding.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks for the tip. I rebuilt it and then tore it down to find uneven pattern on races. The originals had uneven pattern as well. Setup bearings and new bearings all have nochy feel to them. I even cleaned up burs on the seat to no avail. I'm thinking the pumkin is messed up.
@@Ashroyer86 sounds like it was machined wrong.