Hey great to see your video. We have been the NZ PR supplier for 5 years. You don't need the grease on the diff edges and gaskets, they don't leak. Better to put the slime on the orings to stop them from being dry.
I'm 53, raced and built precision kits before but this kit definitely has a modern touch to it of things I haven't seen before. Definitely and amazing build. Its definitely a treat to own this car I would amagine because of the details.
I've ran for PR Racing in the USA for 7 years. The fit and finish are great and the cars are extremely durable. They had 13mm shocks years before the big brands did.
Nice to see one being built again very competitive car, I'd definitely go up in diff oils to calm it a little you'll have bags of steering, maybe front shock oil too But drive it and enjoy it!
Nice car going to considered. I have an LC Racing car and the fit and finish is impeccable. The coated hardware is sadly better than any Tamiya or Kyosho kit I ever built.
Excellent video... yet again!!! Inspiring too!!! I look forward to seeing it painted and running!!! It's a little tricky for me set the slipper clutch just right. They're still new to me.
Gav I cut the posts down on mine and used a Willspeed o ring battery hold down on the car, worked really well. Once fitted you can use any lipo you like
Pro Car, Pro Electronics... Just need a Pro driver now!! 🤣 Great build Gav. Looking forward to seeing it running matey. Love the detailed video with all the tips too mate.
That acctually looks a better buggy than the xray ive built. But from my experiance PR have allways put out great kits at a good price. Cant wait to see it on track 👍
Dont know this brand but some pro drivers like Spencer Rivkin put in the rear shocks upside down. Lowers centre of gravity and makes the shocks work different. Seems to work for them great. I would do the same if i would run carpet i think
Looks like an excellent buggy. I hate the painting. Particularly the fiddly brush bits. Been trying to finish my vintage Ford Ranger body since December!
The shims on top of the steering posts should go over the post and sit on top of the bearings. It looks like you might have the wrong shim on there. The one side looks pinched between the post and the graphite plate.
@@RCKickschannel The shim is there to take out any up and down play of the steering bellcrank and also keep the bearing moving smoothly. On my 401 the carbon fiber piece sits right against the posts with the shims down on the posts.
I love these kits but always hated the wheels. Being flush. I understand the reason, but they do have cool round sticker kits that look like real wheels with real patterns . I'd love to see you pick some up in one of your videos.
Great video! Materials and quality look really nice. It's great that so many options come in the kit where you have to buy them separately with others. I looked online and it appears that this model is quite old. It hasn't been updated in several years nut is still relatively pricey. What made you choose it? I wonder how XRay feels about all these cars copying their design :). I would think that lighter diff oil would have the same effect as removing two bevel gears without the risk of stripping the gear. Please follow up with the shock hoods that you use.
Turnbuckles! yes My least favorite part to build. I ease the pain a little by tapping the ball cups first. Get some M3 taps both left and right hand threads. Put the tap in a hand drill and tap out the cups. makes life a lot easier on the fingers.
The video is worth the wait. I noticed your rear shocks was placed in front of the rear shock tower [mine was placed behind] would you happen to know what it does to the car besides "protecting" it? Thanks.
All out of the box parts. I’m doing some upgrades now on it so it will be back on the show. I’m fitting titanium screws as well as the race chassis to it. I will also be upgrading to titanium turnbuckles. The only other thing I would like to do is fit the alloy steering but that’s out of stock currently.
I got this kit a few days ago. All the pins for the front and rear CVA’s are 10.8. Not 9.8mm. Should have two and two. Got 4 10.8. Any words of advice to reach someone in customer support. Emailed them. Also the USA website contact number goes to sex hotline. Feeling pretty discouraged atm. Rear cva won’t fit into the bearing so won’t run at all this way.
Wow really, that sucks. Contact the people you purchased it from would be my first call. Not sure about the US side for Pr Racing directly as I’m in the UK.
Hey great to see your video. We have been the NZ PR supplier for 5 years. You don't need the grease on the diff edges and gaskets, they don't leak. Better to put the slime on the orings to stop them from being dry.
I'm 53, raced and built precision kits before but this kit definitely has a modern touch to it of things I haven't seen before. Definitely and amazing build. Its definitely a treat to own this car I would amagine because of the details.
I've ran for PR Racing in the USA for 7 years. The fit and finish are great and the cars are extremely durable. They had 13mm shocks years before the big brands did.
Great to see how things have changed since I raced as a kid in the mid to late 80s with a Schumacher Cat and Mid-Optima, that's a lovely kit to build
Nice to see one being built again very competitive car, I'd definitely go up in diff oils to calm it a little you'll have bags of steering, maybe front shock oil too But drive it and enjoy it!
Nice car going to considered. I have an LC Racing car and the fit and finish is impeccable. The coated hardware is sadly better than any Tamiya or Kyosho kit I ever built.
Brilliant upload. The Attention to detail, production and editing are all immaculate.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Best build video you’ve done - totally 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 what a piece of kit!!
Glad you like it!
Excellent video... yet again!!! Inspiring too!!! I look forward to seeing it painted and running!!! It's a little tricky for me set the slipper clutch just right. They're still new to me.
That certainly looks like a quality kit! Thanks Gavin!
In the next video we will see how it goes around the track :) Thanks for watching
Gav I cut the posts down on mine and used a Willspeed o ring battery hold down on the car, worked really well. Once fitted you can use any lipo you like
Cut the posts down to just under the level of a low profile shorty and your good to go with the Willspeed o ring mount
That is a really impressive kit!
Nice build. Looking forward to seeing it go.
Damn, that looks like a superb quality kit, very nice😉 I can't wait to see how well it goes👍
Great build Gavin, always nice to see your builds and usefull tips, fantastic! Have a nice weekend
Pro Car, Pro Electronics... Just need a Pro driver now!! 🤣 Great build Gav. Looking forward to seeing it running matey. Love the detailed video with all the tips too mate.
Slightly below average pro RC driver I will have you know ;)
🤣😂@@RCKickschannel
That acctually looks a better buggy than the xray ive built. But from my experiance PR have allways put out great kits at a good price. Cant wait to see it on track 👍
good idea to put some silicone oil on the seal in the diff..
Beautiful machining.
That's a really nice bit of kit. 👍🏻
2-gear-Diff is standard at Schumacher now. I run it both 2wd and 4wd(front&rear).
so you would recommend running 2 gear diff in the front and rear on carpet ? What oil cst would you recommend?
@@RCKickschannelYes, but of course it depends on different things. 4-gear would calm down the car. I run stock 12k, but on astro.
Dont know this brand but some pro drivers like Spencer Rivkin put in the rear shocks upside down. Lowers centre of gravity and makes the shocks work different. Seems to work for them great. I would do the same if i would run carpet i think
Nice job 👏 👍
nice built video, this racing buggy looks fantastic and is tough as a tank hopefully doesn't drive like one😀😀😀😀😀😀
Looks like an excellent buggy. I hate the painting. Particularly the fiddly brush bits. Been trying to finish my vintage Ford Ranger body since December!
The shims on top of the steering posts should go over the post and sit on top of the bearings. It looks like you might have the wrong shim on there. The one side looks pinched between the post and the graphite plate.
I checked and this is the correct size. Don’t forget this part doesn’t move.
@@RCKickschannel The shim is there to take out any up and down play of the steering bellcrank and also keep the bearing moving smoothly. On my 401 the carbon fiber piece sits right against the posts with the shims down on the posts.
In the FINAL! I neely died laughing 😠😡😓😱
I love these kits but always hated the wheels. Being flush. I understand the reason, but they do have cool round sticker kits that look like real wheels with real patterns . I'd love to see you pick some up in one of your videos.
I will take a look and see what I can find.
Great video! Materials and quality look really nice. It's great that so many options come in the kit where you have to buy them separately with others. I looked online and it appears that this model is quite old. It hasn't been updated in several years nut is still relatively pricey. What made you choose it? I wonder how XRay feels about all these cars copying their design :). I would think that lighter diff oil would have the same effect as removing two bevel gears without the risk of stripping the gear. Please follow up with the shock hoods that you use.
Turnbuckles! yes My least favorite part to build. I ease the pain a little by tapping the ball cups first. Get some M3 taps both left and right hand threads. Put the tap in a hand drill and tap out the cups. makes life a lot easier on the fingers.
The video is worth the wait. I noticed your rear shocks was placed in front of the rear shock tower [mine was placed behind] would you happen to know what it does to the car besides "protecting" it? Thanks.
a lay ever part out for that step from a kit any kit wither it be lego technic rc cars or just models in general best way to do it ad say
Hey Gav! What is that you use to mark the differentials with the oil thickness? 😮
Gold paint pen.
I use a silver sharpie.
Did you use any upgrade parts during this build or was is all out the box parts??
All out of the box parts. I’m doing some upgrades now on it so it will be back on the show. I’m fitting titanium screws as well as the race chassis to it. I will also be upgrading to titanium turnbuckles. The only other thing I would like to do is fit the alloy steering but that’s out of stock currently.
It looks a lot like a b74.2
I got this kit a few days ago. All the pins for the front and rear CVA’s are 10.8. Not 9.8mm. Should have two and two. Got 4 10.8. Any words of advice to reach someone in customer support. Emailed them. Also the USA website contact number goes to sex hotline. Feeling pretty discouraged atm. Rear cva won’t fit into the bearing so won’t run at all this way.
Wow really, that sucks. Contact the people you purchased it from would be my first call. Not sure about the US side for Pr Racing directly as I’m in the UK.
At 14:53, is the diff housing metal?
The gear part is but not the housing
@@RCKickschannel I noticed the loctite on those screws going into the plastic case and usually loctite isn't good with plastic.
I guess the layout for a 4wd Buggy has peaked. They all looked the same now…
Hate doing the bodys
Get a turnbuckle driver
Off the wall idea for a future show. Take a tamiya re release ( egress avante black top force or top force evo) and make it race ready.
看你灌避震器以及鎖拉桿頭這麼隨便，就不想看了
Shocks their my least favourite
Your wrist must have been sore after this build... get yourself a electric screwdriver
I have 2
@@RCKickschannel I ran for PR a few years ago. The kits are tanks, hopefully they eventually move away completely for the e-clips