😀THANKS FOR WATCHING! Here we have more F-150 videos! 2004-08 Ford F150 Ignition/Spark Plug Coil Replacement th-cam.com/video/U70bvNM6fAI/w-d-xo.html F150 VCT Solenoid Gasket Seal Replacement (2004-2008)F250 F350 th-cam.com/video/CaHaEKzO11Y/w-d-xo.html How to change the headlight on a Ford f150 th-cam.com/video/nwtRDmw8KxI/w-d-xo.html 2011-2014 XLT Ford F150 Steering Wheel Control Replacement th-cam.com/video/fFCqoL6Y1pA/w-d-xo.html
Idk if anyone thinks like me, but after seeing this guy and other YT videos struggle with this, I got to the step with the rotor off and just took a flathead screw driver and a rubber mallet and just kept working that lever mechanism until it moved freely. Then slathered some anti-seize on it and worked it a bit more and now my parking brake is working beautifully. Saved me having to get someone to help me, and the hassle of taking that all apart. Obviously a professional mechanic can't do something like this, but for someone that just needs it to not be stuck on its good enough..
Did this a while back and here's my 2 cents: If you haven't changed the diff oil in 50,000 miles or so, plan to do it while you do the parking brake work. Taking the axle shafts out makes the parking brake work absolutely painless. If not: Use a magnet to hold the pins in place while you're working with the clip. I used a freebee snap on flathead screwdriver with a small magnet on the rear, fit right in the hole and kept it mostly in position! The vise grip on the shoe is a must. In a pinch you might be able to make it work with a few properly placed zip ties but I recommend vise grips, you'll definitely use them again. Speaking of vise grips, I used one to compress the clip while I pushed it on the pin. Problem is, you have to angle it to get in position around the axle shaft. Hard to explain in words, but the best I can describe it is like an alligator: The head is the clip, the neck is the open end of the vise grip, and the rest of the body is the handles of the vise grip. Now imagine the alligator turns its head. That's how I positioned the clip.
I have the same hardware and what I did different was I used a long handle bent needle nose pliers. I compressed the clip and zip tied the handle to act like vise grips. I left the bottom spring out and adjuster so I could slide the clips on. Everything else was done exactly like the video. You definitely have to put a clamp on those shoes to keep them back and in place. Good video!
Thank you very much! I’m new to the inner workings of my truck as I’ve never owned a newer vehicle. After watching this video I went home and fixed that annoying squeal...was the same part seized on mine as well! A little penetrating oil and hammer taps got it like new and re-installed...now with a dab of grease on the pivot. Took me two hours, including setup, assembly and to put all the tools away. Working like a charm now! I used a couple of small chainsaw cutting wedges to hold the pad in which worked great for me.
Hey Juro Me, was your truck making an awful squeal from the rear end at low speeds especially in reverse? Trying to diagnose the noise on my truck and I think this may be it. Thanks!
@@davidwalker72 Hi David, sorry for the delay I haven't been on in awhile. Yeah my sound was very prominent squeal; I would get the truck rolling and throw it in neutral and could feel very slight drag...but not super hard or super loud. Just super annoying. With a stuck parking brake I guess it all depends just how "stuck" it is. Mine was stuck only enough to make an irritating noise and the hub didn't get too hot.
@@PTSix-eg4zj Thanks for the reply, a week ago I took off my rear rotors and things were a bit rusty in there. The shoes were definitely dragging because of a little buildup of rust. I polished the inside of the rotor and cleaned and lubed the right spots. Completely fixed the issue. Had to adjust the tensioner to get them off then tighten it when reassembled. I only drive it about 5000 miles a year, but time plays its toll on these parts for sure!
Bit of a necro post here but I ran into this while doing rear brakes on my '13 F150. The left side adjuster was seized and as a result, both shoes were worn to the metal. 1A Auto has a great video on removing the parking brake shoes. Thankfully I found this video BEFORE I started to replace the adjuster.
Oh the nightmare! You forgot to include all the cuss words and plenty cigarette breaks if you’re working by yourself. My professional advise? Have the correct tools. Needle nose with a angle works great too. Here’s my list of tools I use every time: brake spoon, flat-head screw driver, and small locking pliers. That last shoe retainer is a pain to install but not impossible. Cheers 🍻
That works too. Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!
Can't seem to find any videos on replacing the actual cable. I cleaned, lubricated, and reinstalled all my rusty parts last night. Major PITA. Nice video, but it didn't show up until later in my search results.
Could this cause your check engine light to go on? My ebrake is always on but it will turn off if I pull the switch a Hundred times but the check engine light is on
Question... 1st of all WOW, this video saved me so much heart ache! My p-brake was an unexpected replacement as when I was replacing my primary brake pads, I noticed my p-brake was rusted and the pads were coming off of the shoes. So I bought new p-brake shoes, and I disassembled the e-brake assembly, cleaned up the moving parts with WD-40, wire brush and finished it off with brake cleaner. After which time the previously crusty rusted levers were moving freely. I cleaned up all contact points and applied a little bit of grease to ease movement. So here is my (2) questions/situation: 1. After reassembly of the p-brake without the rotor put back on, the p-brake shoes will move freely when I physically pull hard on them with my hands, but when I press my p-brake pedal only 1 shoe moves. This happens on both sides. Is it supposed to do that? Or is there a real problem? 2. Prior to this replacement my p-brake felt softer than my last f150 and pretty much every other vehicle I've owned. So I figured after replacement, they would feel tighter. I have adjusted my adjustment screws until I felt what I would think is TOO MUCH pressure on the wheel with the p-brake in a released position. But the p-brake feels the same as it did before. Is this a result of the issue in Question 1? Don't get me wrong, the p-brake "works" It's just not as tight as I'd like.
I remember my first time messing with a parking brake on a dodge avenger was pretty much ready to blow my brains out halfway or when I was about to get it done, but once I got it, the satisfaction was immense
Huge help for my 2015. getting some scraping noise and rotor was tight to put back on (against shoes). Any ideas as to why? Wondering if the ‘slacking the line step’ is something I should do (not sure what that meant). Either way / Thank you!
The best way to remove a stuck rear disc is to use a bolt on one of the 2 small hole between the lug holes. After busting my ass trying to hammer out the first disc and half of the second. I decided to use a bolt on one of the holes with my impact and astonishingly enough it pushed it out in seconds. Save your self alot of time and before you start the job buy or find a couple of bolts that work on the two holes and enjoy your saved time.
Mine is tightening on its own I keep have to adjust them in to free up the rear wheels this next is to take it apart and check this part . And I never use my ebrake
Cool I took a hammer and screwdriver to the actuator from the back side and broke it free in a few smacks. The rubbing noise I was trying to find for weeks is gone!
I have replaced the parking brakes on these a couple of times. You MUST have edited out the swear words. Almost easier to pull the axle out first. Stupid design. Nice job explaining the whole job but it's giving me flashbacks!
Hi. I suspect this is what's wrong with my husbands old work truck. Feels like it. And so I must confess that I frequently drove his truck with that emergency brake still on. Then he started pushing it in even more when he applied the 911 brake. Now, he is unable to diagnose or fix it due to his health problems. But I need the truck to drive. Does anyone at all think that would lead to it getting stuck? When I drive it, brake lights flashing and beeping. Wasnt doing that before. And it feels like tension is holding it when I'm easing off in 1st gear. Ty if you can reply. Hugs Marie Maria
On my 2006 F150 FX, you have to stick a 5/22 drill bit into the pedal actuator (after having "a buddy" pull down the cable running on the DS) prior to working on the rear braking system. None of the videos I have watched indicate this. Is mine the only one that requires it?
I do have a stupid question: does anyone know if the "chucking" of the pedal prevents the wheels from spinning? I fear there may be more wrong because I cannot turn the rear wheels at all. Either before (but all rusted stuff was still on) or after "chucking" the pedal--even now with the calipers and rotors and shoes removed.
I'm looking SO forward to doing mine 😁😅🤣 what fun I'll have yes I done some brakes many years ago when I was a kid this Will bring back remarkable memories why I went into singing lol
@@nicholasandrie6269 The part is really cheap from the dealership! Give them a call have your vehicles VIN ready!!! Let me know how it turns out for you! Happy Motoring-Blair
Bro how do we remove the handbrake cable from the adjuster??? My old cable is broken and i bought a new one, but i don't know how to take it off from the aduster... Its so hard and i dont see any knots to loosen it... Help ASAP would be appreciated ty 😊
my 2008 f150 was purchased used when i was checking rear pads i found out someone gutted everything to do with the parking brake was going to reinstall everything only can't find a good diagram as to how it all goes together anyone have a detailed pic. Thx
Im getting ready to rework my 2014. Just a suggestion, could you use the adjuster to hold the pads apart so that the retaining clips would be easier to install.
thanks a lot. I don't have the problem yet but I will pick these up for some preventative maintenance since I do launch boats from time to time. Thank's for the video and reply!
E brake usually means electric brake, or electronic brake which I have. Your E brake is just an "emergency brake" , a pull cable. totally different. TH-cam doesn't charge by the word, so it would be cool to just type "Emergency" in the heading. I have electric brakes on my Ecoboost and am trying to figure out how to separate the caliper part from the electric component part.
You are funny. The term E brake has been around for decades. The correct term for what you have is electronic parking brake Which is a much more modern apparatus on vehicles you can email me at info@RevitAuto.com with your vin and I can see how we can help and possibly make a video! Most vehicles have a process for disengaging the electronic parking brake while trying to service however more and more often a scan tool is required to release that system
😀THANKS FOR WATCHING! Here we have more F-150 videos!
2004-08 Ford F150 Ignition/Spark Plug Coil Replacement
th-cam.com/video/U70bvNM6fAI/w-d-xo.html
F150 VCT Solenoid Gasket Seal Replacement (2004-2008)F250 F350
th-cam.com/video/CaHaEKzO11Y/w-d-xo.html
How to change the headlight on a Ford f150
th-cam.com/video/nwtRDmw8KxI/w-d-xo.html
2011-2014 XLT Ford F150 Steering Wheel Control Replacement
th-cam.com/video/fFCqoL6Y1pA/w-d-xo.html
Idk if anyone thinks like me, but after seeing this guy and other YT videos struggle with this, I got to the step with the rotor off and just took a flathead screw driver and a rubber mallet and just kept working that lever mechanism until it moved freely. Then slathered some anti-seize on it and worked it a bit more and now my parking brake is working beautifully. Saved me having to get someone to help me, and the hassle of taking that all apart. Obviously a professional mechanic can't do something like this, but for someone that just needs it to not be stuck on its good enough..
Exactly what I did on my personal truck! But not something I can do on a clients fleet truck!
Did this a while back and here's my 2 cents: If you haven't changed the diff oil in 50,000 miles or so, plan to do it while you do the parking brake work. Taking the axle shafts out makes the parking brake work absolutely painless. If not:
Use a magnet to hold the pins in place while you're working with the clip. I used a freebee snap on flathead screwdriver with a small magnet on the rear, fit right in the hole and kept it mostly in position!
The vise grip on the shoe is a must. In a pinch you might be able to make it work with a few properly placed zip ties but I recommend vise grips, you'll definitely use them again.
Speaking of vise grips, I used one to compress the clip while I pushed it on the pin. Problem is, you have to angle it to get in position around the axle shaft. Hard to explain in words, but the best I can describe it is like an alligator: The head is the clip, the neck is the open end of the vise grip, and the rest of the body is the handles of the vise grip. Now imagine the alligator turns its head. That's how I positioned the clip.
I have the same hardware and what I did different was I used a long handle bent needle nose pliers. I compressed the clip and zip tied the handle to act like vise grips. I left the bottom spring out and adjuster so I could slide the clips on. Everything else was done exactly like the video. You definitely have to put a clamp on those shoes to keep them back and in place.
Good video!
Thank you very much! I’m new to the inner workings of my truck as I’ve never owned a newer vehicle. After watching this video I went home and fixed that annoying squeal...was the same part seized on mine as well! A little penetrating oil and hammer taps got it like new and re-installed...now with a dab of grease on the pivot. Took me two hours, including setup, assembly and to put all the tools away. Working like a charm now! I used a couple of small chainsaw cutting wedges to hold the pad in which worked great for me.
Solid! Thanks for sharing your experience and adding a little tip in there! Congrats on owning this new of a truck! Happy Motoring -Blair
Hey Juro Me, was your truck making an awful squeal from the rear end at low speeds especially in reverse? Trying to diagnose the noise on my truck and I think this may be it. Thanks!
@@davidwalker72 Hi David, sorry for the delay I haven't been on in awhile. Yeah my sound was very prominent squeal; I would get the truck rolling and throw it in neutral and could feel very slight drag...but not super hard or super loud. Just super annoying. With a stuck parking brake I guess it all depends just how "stuck" it is. Mine was stuck only enough to make an irritating noise and the hub didn't get too hot.
@@PTSix-eg4zj Thanks for the reply, a week ago I took off my rear rotors and things were a bit rusty in there. The shoes were definitely dragging because of a little buildup of rust. I polished the inside of the rotor and cleaned and lubed the right spots. Completely fixed the issue. Had to adjust the tensioner to get them off then tighten it when reassembled. I only drive it about 5000 miles a year, but time plays its toll on these parts for sure!
@@davidwalker72 Awesome news! I love when a fix saves us $$. Nice work.
Bit of a necro post here but I ran into this while doing rear brakes on my '13 F150. The left side adjuster was seized and as a result, both shoes were worn to the metal. 1A Auto has a great video on removing the parking brake shoes. Thankfully I found this video BEFORE I started to replace the adjuster.
Oh the nightmare! You forgot to include all the cuss words and plenty cigarette breaks if you’re working by yourself. My professional advise? Have the correct tools. Needle nose with a angle works great too. Here’s my list of tools I use every time: brake spoon, flat-head screw driver, and small locking pliers. That last shoe retainer is a pain to install but not impossible. Cheers 🍻
Wish I could double like this comment! Thank you for the list of tools you used! I don't smoke but this job could have made me start!
Thanks for this! My 16 F150 had the exact same setup. I'm done with one side and have the other started but your video was a big help!
Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!
You're explanation of how to diagnose it was very helpful, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
for the zip tie trick. Was going out of my mind. Sooooo helpful!!
Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!
Doing the same repair to my truck but I found it helpful to take the clips and pins out first. Just gave me more room to work to access the springs
That works too. Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!
Cool trick with the zip tie! Seemed to work much better than my using locking radiator hose clamp pliers.
They make a spring installer remover for the rear brakes...its always a little difficult but either way works...
Extremely helpful on tips, it's alot harder then it looks!!!! Thanks!
PAIN IN THE FRIGGIN (BAD WORD BAD WORD BAD WORD) Really not a fun one at all!
Saved my weekend with this one, appreciate it.
MeVShim awesome to hear it! Happy Motoring!
That was a awesome video thanks for sharing your thoughts and how you done it
Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!
Can't seem to find any videos on replacing the actual cable. I cleaned, lubricated, and reinstalled all my rusty parts last night. Major PITA. Nice video, but it didn't show up until later in my search results.
@ 15:51 .... is that ABS line underneath the break fluid line??? The one at the bottom
Could this cause your check engine light to go on? My ebrake is always on but it will turn off if I pull the switch a Hundred times but the check engine light is on
thanks for the ziptie trick with the spring!
Question... 1st of all WOW, this video saved me so much heart ache! My p-brake was an unexpected replacement as when I was replacing my primary brake pads, I noticed my p-brake was rusted and the pads were coming off of the shoes.
So I bought new p-brake shoes, and I disassembled the e-brake assembly, cleaned up the moving parts with WD-40, wire brush and finished it off with brake cleaner. After which time the previously crusty rusted levers were moving freely. I cleaned up all contact points and applied a little bit of grease to ease movement.
So here is my (2) questions/situation:
1. After reassembly of the p-brake without the rotor put back on, the p-brake shoes will move freely when I physically pull hard on them with my hands, but when I press my p-brake pedal only 1 shoe moves. This happens on both sides. Is it supposed to do that? Or is there a real problem?
2. Prior to this replacement my p-brake felt softer than my last f150 and pretty much every other vehicle I've owned. So I figured after replacement, they would feel tighter. I have adjusted my adjustment screws until I felt what I would think is TOO MUCH pressure on the wheel with the p-brake in a released position. But the p-brake feels the same as it did before. Is this a result of the issue in Question 1? Don't get me wrong, the p-brake "works" It's just not as tight as I'd like.
I stick a magnet on the back to hold the pin in place as a 3rd hand makes it easier but its still "fun".
Haha! What a brilliant Idea! I will be sure to use this method in the future!!!
I remember my first time messing with a parking brake on a dodge avenger was pretty much ready to blow my brains out halfway or when I was about to get it done, but once I got it, the satisfaction was immense
Huge help for my 2015. getting some scraping noise and rotor was tight to put back on (against shoes). Any ideas as to why? Wondering if the ‘slacking the line step’ is something I should do (not sure what that meant). Either way / Thank you!
Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!
The best way to remove a stuck rear disc is to use a bolt on one of the 2 small hole between the lug holes.
After busting my ass trying to hammer out the first disc and half of the second. I decided to use a bolt on one of the holes with my impact and astonishingly enough it pushed it out in seconds.
Save your self alot of time and before you start the job buy or find a couple of bolts that work on the two holes and enjoy your saved time.
Make a video! I will link it into the description!
@@Revitauto I already did the job but I'll see if it works on the front ones since I still need to do those.
Mine is tightening on its own I keep have to adjust them in to free up the rear wheels this next is to take it apart and check this part . And I never use my ebrake
Cool I took a hammer and screwdriver to the actuator from the back side and broke it free in a few smacks. The rubbing noise I was trying to find for weeks is gone!
I have replaced the parking brakes on these a couple of times. You MUST have edited out the swear words. Almost easier to pull the axle out first. Stupid design. Nice job explaining the whole job but it's giving me flashbacks!
All profanity was removed during the making of this video! ;) Thanks for the laugh! Happy Motoring!
Good video, I used needle nose pliers with like 45 deg. bend to hold and install clips worked good.
Very awesome tip! I will be sure to try that next time! These clips can be a super pain! Happy Motoring-Blair
Hi. I suspect this is what's wrong with my husbands old work truck. Feels like it.
And so I must confess that I frequently drove his truck with that emergency brake still on.
Then he started pushing it in even more when he applied the 911 brake. Now, he is unable to diagnose or fix it due to his health problems. But I need the truck to drive.
Does anyone at all think that would lead to it getting stuck? When I drive it, brake lights flashing and beeping. Wasnt doing that before.
And it feels like tension is holding it when I'm easing off in 1st gear.
Ty if you can reply.
Hugs
Marie Maria
this looks difficult. I have the same problem on my 2014. good instructions I will try it.
It is a very frustrating process. Do it over the weekend or a time when you have zero places to be!
My E-brake cable stuck in the on position and the back wheels got real hot and the whole truck shook.
On my 2006 F150 FX, you have to stick a 5/22 drill bit into the pedal actuator (after having "a buddy" pull down the cable running on the DS) prior to working on the rear braking system. None of the videos I have watched indicate this. Is mine the only one that requires it?
I do have a stupid question: does anyone know if the "chucking" of the pedal prevents the wheels from spinning? I fear there may be more wrong because I cannot turn the rear wheels at all. Either before (but all rusted stuff was still on) or after "chucking" the pedal--even now with the calipers and rotors and shoes removed.
I'm looking SO forward to doing mine 😁😅🤣 what fun I'll have yes I done some brakes many years ago when I was a kid this Will bring back remarkable memories why I went into singing lol
My parking brake makes a loud squeaking noise after I release it and it doesn't fully release all the way. Doing this should fix it?
Also Advanced Auto Parts and Dorman say that part 924-743 is the wrong part for my 2012 F150 XLT. Any ideas?
@@nicholasandrie6269 The part is really cheap from the dealership! Give them a call have your vehicles VIN ready!!! Let me know how it turns out for you! Happy Motoring-Blair
Bro how do we remove the handbrake cable from the adjuster??? My old cable is broken and i bought a new one, but i don't know how to take it off from the aduster... Its so hard and i dont see any knots to loosen it...
Help ASAP would be appreciated ty 😊
Ato A Sheqi can you use Google photos to post a link of what it is you are talking about?
my 2008 f150 was purchased used when i was checking rear pads i found out someone gutted everything to do with the parking brake was going to reinstall everything only can't find a good diagram as to how it all goes together anyone have a detailed pic. Thx
Im getting ready to rework my 2014. Just a suggestion, could you use the adjuster to hold the pads apart so that the retaining clips would be easier to install.
Definitely, thats the easy way to do it.
Stay gold.
Super very nice video,thanks.
Thank you so much! Happy Motoring-Blair
got a part number for the piece you replaced?
l mac I will look it up and post it in the description!
At Advanced Auto Parts it is Part Number 924-743 and should cost about $30 for both with a new grommet.
thanks a lot. I don't have the problem yet but I will pick these up for some preventative maintenance since I do launch boats from time to time. Thank's for the video and reply!
E brake usually means electric brake, or electronic brake which I have. Your E brake is just an "emergency brake" , a pull cable. totally different. TH-cam doesn't charge by the word, so it would be cool to just type "Emergency" in the heading. I have electric brakes on my Ecoboost and am trying to figure out how to separate the caliper part from the electric component part.
You are funny. The term E brake has been around for decades. The correct term for what you have is electronic parking brake Which is a much more modern apparatus on vehicles you can email me at info@RevitAuto.com with your vin and I can see how we can help and possibly make a video!
Most vehicles have a process for disengaging the electronic parking brake while trying to service however more and more often a scan tool is required to release that system
LOOOOL, the opening line. 😂😂
My parking brake rattles and cranks around, it's driving me insane
It’s always the drivers side completely seized on these
Do you have to do it all the way around or just that one drum
You will most likely need to do both rears, your front brakes do not have these components.
@@Revitauto thank you man!
You got it boss! Have you completed this repair yet? Happy Motoring- Blair
nice...🎖
Glad it was helpful. We would appreciate it if you subscribed to help us grow and continue creating repair videos to help everyone. Happy motoring!
So you turn one way and I'm like YAy!! Now I know , BUT THEN YOU TURN THE OTHER WAY AND NOW IM LIKE WTF SO WICH WAY IS IT TO LOOSIN IT FML
10 hr job for me
I can totally see that happening, the first time it took me a long long time to get it done, that is why I made the video. Happy Motoring- Blair
😅
Another brilliant ford GARBAGE idea