Wish you made this a week ago. Would have saved me some headache. Just want to add a couple of notes. Test fly your motor train before you attach/connect your precious HDZ VTX to this FC. Or at least hold it in your hand with the props on and test from radio. Or, risk having do like I had to do and tear it all apart again. Also, the VTX gets molten hot really fast. Always have a fan blowing on it when powered up. And lastly if you wire SA to UART 1 on this board you can change VTX settings with aux switch. Very handy to turn to 0 watts fast when you crash in the field and have to go searching.
Pretty sure you see me doing just that; testing the powertrain before going further; there was a time I would even test for camera, osd, vtx and Rx before soldering on; I've had a few bad ones this way. Absolutely right about blowing fan when sitting still; You might see the one I got wired to my PSU for that purpose And not sure about SA; shouldn't it be possible with MSP?
I checked mine in Betaflight with battery plugged in and everything seemed to work fine. When I went to fly it, I first tested it while holding it. Throttle worked fine in the bottom of the band but when I throttled up the motors become unresponsive to radio and spun at constant high rate. It would have flown away if I wasn't holding it.
@@fpvnewbee9436 I see; due to oscillations? I've had them as well when the BMI and ICM42 gyros just popped on the FCs; eventually we managed to dial it in on Quicksilver and it's been solid ever since
The real final boss in this build is the motor wire stripping. Cut it too short, and you got to add more wire, or throw the motor in the bin... I think I need your magic stripping cutters, mine strip all the wire with the silicon lol .
Oh yes it used to be quite a challenge for me too; you just have to get familiar with your cutter; put just the right amount of force Ofc nice and sharp ones help a lot; for trimming the ducts too. I avoid the stamped sheet metal ones for that reason I've listed the tweezers already, might just list the cutters too 😄 I'll look into it
Yves, I know you know your stuff and this is definitely a workshop in how to solder. But I have to ask, as I did in the stream, why is happy model wiring positive to battery lead but ground to ground pad. You say it is empirical. But, I really don't understand. Is HM wrong? Does it matter? This has been bugging me for a long time. Should I ask Mr. Gao with HDZERO?
Hey mate, did you mean the part where hm solders the vtx gnd to the fc accessory ground instead of the battery ground? Well what I meant by empirical is that it's about up to everyone to see what's best for their specific use case. In mine the way I assemble it I get the shortest path soldering both vtx power leads directly to the fc battery pads; it might not be the shortest path in other configurations, and can be more difficult to solder (high thermal mass on the power pads with no thermal relief, + risk of unsoldering the pigtail) But I like it better this way to keep the gnd loop to a minimum and avoid having the flow go through the whole board There might not be a wrong way about it; ground is ground right, they're all continuous anyway, but I like to keep it tight down to the smallest things
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So cool, didn't realize Fractal had videos! Hope more find their way here.
Thank you mate, and yep I try to make livestreams every time there's something new going on; stay tuned!
Wish you made this a week ago. Would have saved me some headache. Just want to add a couple of notes. Test fly your motor train before you attach/connect your precious HDZ VTX to this FC. Or at least hold it in your hand with the props on and test from radio. Or, risk having do like I had to do and tear it all apart again. Also, the VTX gets molten hot really fast. Always have a fan blowing on it when powered up. And lastly if you wire SA to UART 1 on this board you can change VTX settings with aux switch. Very handy to turn to 0 watts fast when you crash in the field and have to go searching.
Pretty sure you see me doing just that; testing the powertrain before going further; there was a time I would even test for camera, osd, vtx and Rx before soldering on; I've had a few bad ones this way.
Absolutely right about blowing fan when sitting still; You might see the one I got wired to my PSU for that purpose
And not sure about SA; shouldn't it be possible with MSP?
I checked mine in Betaflight with battery plugged in and everything seemed to work fine. When I went to fly it, I first tested it while holding it. Throttle worked fine in the bottom of the band but when I throttled up the motors become unresponsive to radio and spun at constant high rate. It would have flown away if I wasn't holding it.
@@fpvnewbee9436 I see; due to oscillations? I've had them as well when the BMI and ICM42 gyros just popped on the FCs; eventually we managed to dial it in on Quicksilver and it's been solid ever since
I found the right diff and problem is solved.
The real final boss in this build is the motor wire stripping. Cut it too short, and you got to add more wire, or throw the motor in the bin...
I think I need your magic stripping cutters, mine strip all the wire with the silicon lol .
Oh yes it used to be quite a challenge for me too; you just have to get familiar with your cutter; put just the right amount of force
Ofc nice and sharp ones help a lot; for trimming the ducts too. I avoid the stamped sheet metal ones for that reason
I've listed the tweezers already, might just list the cutters too 😄 I'll look into it
eh the jig is up, Yves, i cant wait till you build that jig for the flight controllers! 👽
Yves, I know you know your stuff and this is definitely a workshop in how to solder. But I have to ask, as I did in the stream, why is happy model wiring positive to battery lead but ground to ground pad. You say it is empirical. But, I really don't understand. Is HM wrong? Does it matter? This has been bugging me for a long time. Should I ask Mr. Gao with HDZERO?
Hey mate, did you mean the part where hm solders the vtx gnd to the fc accessory ground instead of the battery ground? Well what I meant by empirical is that it's about up to everyone to see what's best for their specific use case.
In mine the way I assemble it I get the shortest path soldering both vtx power leads directly to the fc battery pads; it might not be the shortest path in other configurations, and can be more difficult to solder (high thermal mass on the power pads with no thermal relief, + risk of unsoldering the pigtail)
But I like it better this way to keep the gnd loop to a minimum and avoid having the flow go through the whole board
There might not be a wrong way about it; ground is ground right, they're all continuous anyway, but I like to keep it tight down to the smallest things
OK, Great! I don't really understand electronics that well, but that makes sense and puts my mind at ease.