FURTHER COMMENTS Occasionally Clake owners have trouble bleeding the system. It is critical to get rid of every last air bubble. Watch their entire installation vid and follow their tips for removing those last air bubbles. th-cam.com/video/8KXwMKiT6mw/w-d-xo.html A cheap bleeding kit makes a big difference too. Still having problems? Clake have the following tips: Back off all the force balance assistance by winding the Gold Knob anticlockwise just until you can feel some longitudinal play in the adjuster shaft. Then with the reservoir lid on, loosen the handle bar clamp bolts slightly and rotate the lever up about 45 degrees on the bars. Then cable tie the lever to the bars, leave it like this overnight then in the morning cut the cable tie whilst the unit is still in this position. Then pull the lever in slowly about 10mm then release quickly, repeat at least 6 times. OVER 100 FREE ENDURO TRAINING VIDS English not your first language? Subtitles in 30+ languages! Basic enduro skills playlist bit.ly/3BtOVyI Intermediate enduro skills playlist bit.ly/3HSkh4r Advanced enduro skills playlist bit.ly/3oNNeqF BIKE SETUP & RIDING GEAR Bike setup playlist: bit.ly/3sBar0i Protective gear playlist: bit.ly/34BYDTI Which bike should I buy? bit.ly/3gLTJG1 Knee protection playlist bit.ly/36fR4Cw OUR OTHER PLAYLISTS Reviews of bikes & products bit.ly/3GQCVrO All about helmets bit.ly/3sJxIgy Enduro philosophy! bit.ly/33meQeV 10 ways to hop logs bit.ly/3JqlOPx The weird side of enduro! bit.ly/3Js1ai2 Read our disclaimer first before attempting any techniques: bit.ly/2U0bgCy Become a supporter! www.crosstrainingenduro.com/cross-training-support-donations.html
Ive had one on my 300 for a few years now and i cant recommend it enough, have done the rekluse thing(never again). Clutch control is surgical with this, love it!
You've steered me in the right direction for reduced clutch effort. Watching the install vid on Clake's website sealed the deal. I'd hope you're getting a little kickback from them. Always enjoy your vids! Thank you!
Cheers! Actually we do try to avoid kickbacks so we can stay objective and critical. But the Clake guys were so appreciative of our reviews they've always said they'd service our Clakes for free...
I've had the Clake for 2 years now after discovering it thanks to your videos, the pain of the price has faded since then and apart from the little problems of adjustment and purging, it's a pleasure to ride with this system!
I'm 63 and was having trouble with my hand strength and other health problems. I discovered the carnivor diet and 3 years later hands and health are better than 30 years ago. Two and a half years ago I bought a ktm excf250 ,it now has 54000km and 1000hours on it, hands never get saw .
I got one after I broke my wrist 4 years ago, I've got mine on full adjustment, as I didn't recover very well, very weak muscles. Apart from the odd sticking lever, I've never had any issues with mine, I've dropped the bike plenty of times, and found it to be very durable.
00:50 I cut off all my levers, even the shorties, lol, this one pull feature is essential, eventually, I'll likely be upgrading to this clayton. I get clutch pump, never arm pump, I say this because a lot of riders out there get arm-pump from riding period, I only get it from clutching, and nothing is more important for riding skills than good clutching, save for great balance perhaps.
Been running a clake one for 7 years. Would never run anything else. I have her wound right out (or in?) to 75%. I've found for me, I still maintain the feel, it simply reduces fatigue. I have noticed however the lever does not always return immediately, when riding the most clutch demanding terrain. A worthwhile trade off.
Had mine since 2016 on a beta 300rr, just now ive had to replace the internals due to corrosion. No i dont pressure wash my bikes in case you're wondering. Water does find a way into these units, and if you dont keep some grease in the cam and rocker assembly you may have the same issue. No stress, replacements got sent within a day of ordering. I love this thing!
Yep, have had mine for about 5-6 years now. An amazing bit of technology. Mine has started playing up. Worst incident recently was arseing off the bike in extreme terrain and the bike sat completely upside down for about 30 seconds till I got over to it and righted it. 1 minute more riding and the clutch gave out completely, lever dropped to the handlebar. Still had 2 hours riding in super gnarly terrain left to get out. Used that marvellous starter motor about a thousand times to negotiate some of the hardest terrain I ride. I have a replacement piston and seal to install when I get around to it.
There's a small chance it might just be a tiny air bubble in the system was dislodged while the bike was upside down? I've heard about this even though it's rare. Might be worth trying a rebleed... but then at five years it's probably a good idea to service it anyway!
I have used the Clake One light clutch for 6 years, 5 years on a Husky and now on my KTM 300TPI and its a winner. I disassembled the unit after 3 years and lubed it up with grease in the support spring and links and after almost 6 years I replaced the piston because it sometimes lost hydraulic pressure. After hundreds of hours I would consider this normal maintenance. It's great and everyone that gets on my bike immediately noticed how well it works.
@@crosstrainingenduro I guess so, Clake has a repair kit with a new piston. If you can find only the rubber piston seal It will be fine too, the metal parts was as new. It's a bit tricky to change out but I made it on my own.
Uuuuhhh ain't many things antagonize your ride like a stiff sticky hard clutch pull Berry! I use the same principle as the clutch lever system you're using but most of my machines have a cable activated clutch I just put a strategically placed well balanced PULL spring in between the clutch cover lever arm and the cable housing stand out (but not too much as to overpower the internal springs on the clutch itself and get slippage) I get it to pull about 45% lighter and the cost was free just some springs I had lying around and I adjust my lever clicker out to compensate for that extra detent the spring puts in the system been working very nice ! 👍
Always KY, Tim. 😂 I'd try those 'easy pull' levers that use extra leverage... you just have to be careful with adjustment and if you have short fingers you may find it's too much of a stretch.
Came across CLAKE because of your past videos. The technical solutions caught my engineering mind and for an incredibly high price with tax and importing fees to Germany I had a Pro Lever fitted to my new Beta X-Trainer 2018. Then I swapped for a RR 390 in 2021, kept my CLAKE and even combined it with a Rekluse Auto Clutch. Yes - that is possible. Left hand rear brake, Auto Clutch and being able to snap the clutch. However, I liked the pure Pro Lever better and went back from Rekluse to stock clutch. Romania is waiting. Have fun riding fellows!
@@crosstrainingenduro Sure, it will be my 3rd time there. Endless climbs needs clutch control and long steep descents. I love the rear brake being in control by my finger there.
I have two of these, one on my 2015 500 and one on my 2023 300 tpi. The best investment i ever made for any of my bikes. Absolutely love the Clake products. 10/10.
I enjoy your videos and find the informative. I've tried to watch all your videos on the Clake. Did you ever do your review of the Pro lever compared to Clake 2 you were using?
I have a Clake Pro. Best thing for me that I have fitted to the bike yet. Being able to apply the back brake with my hand while going down a steep incline is priceless
Used for years and love it. I replaced the flexible nylon lever with aluminum made from 8mm plate. Helps keep the engagement point consistent, just keep a spare lever in the tool kit, it'll only bend once. I also filled the housing with engine assembly lube, helps keep the pressure washer water out 😊😇
@@crosstrainingenduro nothing wrong with upgrading bike, but my point is not so much about free method, more along the line of rider improvements via fitness and skill development, you always say its 80% rider and 20% bike (and equipment) so basically I'm reinforcing and supporting your benchmark to invest in yourself first before buying add-ons which are secondary, may or may not help :)
I've had the Clake one light on my last 3 KTMs, now on my 2020 300. Absolutely love it. Mates who rode my bike went out and got a Clake also. Only issue is they are very hard to bleed all the air out! And you need to get it ALL out or it won't work. The install video isn't the best. Also installed them on cable Yamaha with their kit. Works great if you install it properly and get all the air out (sux)!!
I have heard some guys get that tiny stubborn air bubble that takes ages to get out... thankfully we've never hit that. It thought the installation vid included a few tips if this happened? But maybe it's in the Clake 2 vid? It looks like the discontinued the cable conversion kit, otherwise I'd be keen to get on my DR650! Re: the air bubble, a mate of ours has a bleeding kit that pumps the brake fluid up from the bottom, I think. He reckons it makes bleeding fast and incredibly easy... not sure if that might be worth checking out?
@@crosstrainingenduro totally agree, I always bleed from the bottom up and find that much easier and also seems to work better. We have tried a few methods and the issue with air bubbles is definitely at the top and inside the flake which seems to trap bubbles easily. I fill the line up completely and load up the Clake with oil then mate the 2. Then bleed from the bottom again..seems to work the best for me. Definitely interested in any good bleeding system. What bleeding system does your mate have? I'm using the basic syringe method which is a bit clumsy (just like me). Wow didn't realise they discontinued the cable version (it was very hit and miss imo). The guys here at Clake Melbourne are pretty helpful. Cheers.
I did ring them about a cable clutch conversion a few years back, I was keen to put one on my DR650. I think they said enough riders had issues with the system they didn't want to continue sales. Bummer! I'll email this guy and ask what his bleeding kit is.
@@crosstrainingenduro Yes, vacuum bleed from the slave cylinder, while continually adding DOT (or Mineral oil, depending). Went from the crappy factory Braktec on my 2022 FE 350, where all the action is close to the handlebars, to now being like my 2016 FE 350 Brembo system, where all the action is just after the free-play on the lever. Doesn't quite have the same feel as my old Brembo, but it's way better than the stock Braktec clutch master cylinder. Lesson learned: I'll never buy another dirt bike again unless it has factory Brembo hydraulics.
It's great to occasionally come across a product that works great. I was just saying yesterday I loved doing the Gaerne SG12 boot review because it's such a great product... even though the $600 price hurt my wallet a bit lol.
On the DR650 and many other bikes if u move the actuating arm 1 notch back it makes the clutch initially lighter at the expense of heavier in the final stroke, which suits almost single finger use for fine control and when u need full disengagement u got many fingers there anyway.
I've been running a clake one light for about 4 years now and love it. After having broken both my wrists having a featherweight clutch is vital for my riding enjoyment. One problem I did have though was when I was originally running the clutch on my WR450f with a magura hydraulic clutch conversion. I don't know if it was just that particular setup or what but it would constantly bleed down and require pumping the lever every couple KM of riding and eventually left me with no clutch at all in the middle of a 8 hour sandy desert ride. Ever since putting on my Beta 350rr in 2019 and now Sherco 300 in 2022 it has been faultless and fantastic. Guys in the local riding group regularly ask about it. I've been considering putting one on my Tenere 700 too but I'm not certain since it would require a hydraulic conversion again.
I bought one for my YZ 250 cable clutch. I could never get it working right, regardless of the assist, the lever would never return back to full disengagement smoothly. The system was fully bled, so that wasn't the issue. There was also poor fitment with the supplied magura slave cylinder. The bike was unrideable with the jerky clutch disengagement. I ended up removing the Clake.
Bummer. Do you know if it was one of the very first models? I knew a guy who bought one of the first ones. Apparently there were some tolerance issues occasionally in early batches, he said they either replaced with brand new units or replaced parts in the original...
I had a similar issue with my Clake 2 on my YZ250X- I was able to resolve it with Clake's help by lowering the camming assist and even taking out a couple of the inner spacers, but then it didn't give quite as much of an assist as I ideally wanted either. Still, it was better than stock so still run it.
@@crosstrainingenduro I bought mine in late 2017. I'm in the US, so the communication loop was slow. They did have me take some measurements for the slave cylinder, and then sent out a different one. It fit better, but it still requires some spacer washers to get the pull length for the slave cylinder correct. There were some emails back and forth about trying to get the Clake working right. I sent them video of the lever not returning, but having the unit repaired was never discussed.
Bummer. I did hear stories of them taking ages to respond to customers because they were swamped by demand. Maybe contact them again? If there's something wrong with the Clake then at this price they should do everything possible to either fix it or replace it.
I love mine here in the southern AZ desert. SO much so that I never ended up installing the Rekluse auto clutch I bought and have always ran on my other bikes. Sometimes after a hard training ride and I put the bike away, the next day the clutch lever will be all the way in as if a ghost is pulling on it. Weird. It only takes a flick of the lever to get it back to normal starting position and it is good to go. this rarely happens, but it has happened more than once. I still love this thing and believe I am faster with it as well as better in the technical stuff than with a Rekluse....and to me that is hard to believe.
i'd guess its some kind of spring preloaded leverage mechanism that only supports your pulling force arround the max. resistance point of the clutch. so it won't preload the clutch when not being pulled. Would be really interesting to see whats actually going on inside
Years ago when I was down south I popped into their factory to get my first one. They had one pulled apart and explained how it worked, but it all went over my head lol. It is based around a spring though...
It's like the diaphragm spring in the KTM clutches. The further away from flush, the more force it generates. Or like a compound bow. When the lever is out, Clake's spring has almost no effect. As soon as you pull the lever and allow the spring to return past a certain point, it increases the force progressively. It only counters lever release force where needed, just like you said.
I have a 2022 KTM 300 and LOVE the Clake. Unfortunately it started to stick and had to take it apart. Accidentally over did the screw and unscrewed it from the nut end all the way. Now it’s apart and can’t figure out how to get it back together. But after riding with the stock clutch again for the last 4 rides, I want it back! Hand is tired with the stock clutch in the gnarly, slow going stuff. Can’t find a video on how to properly put it together. May have to buy another one, like it that much.
Clake had amazing customer support years ago. I heard it dropped a fair bit when demand went through the roof, but they are probably on top of things now and back to fast customer response. I'd contact the guys and see if you could ship it back to them for assembly.
Now thats cool 🤔 so suffering from mechanics hands and constructionitis means I qualify for this kind of upgrade ? Is said black magic vodo available in cd old Canada 🇨🇦 and will it work on a lowly CRF250L do tell 🤔 stay safe and shinny side up 🏍👍🙂
If you have a cable clutch like the crf250l does the best thing you can buy for it is a stunt clutch lever. They're for street bikes but work good on dirt bikes too. I had one on a yz250, it makes the pull close to half as hard as stock. There's the rightous stunt clutch lever which is great but expensive and cheap ebay knock offs for next to nothing which are alright and what I had. Moose makes a easy pull lever too that's about the same as the chinese stunt levers.
I think Clake used to do a conversion kit for cable clutches but not anymore... no sign of it on the website. I agree with Eric, just try one of the 'easy pull' clutch levers that used extra leverage.
60-75% reduction sounds wonderful. Unfortunately my WR250F has a cable clutch so the Clake is not an option. I'd love to have one for my hands as well. In the meantime, I've gone to a USA fabricator (RSC lever) who makes an altered pivot design with a bearing in the pivot. While it does require a longer pull (I purchased the full length lever for extra leverage, too), it is nevertheless a noticeable reduction in the force required.
@@Cee-FJedi I think it depends a lot on the specific Yamaha model and model year due to the clutch actuation arm length and travel direction. It worked on my son's 2016 YZ250F that required 9mm(?) of travel at the end of the arm in a fairly straight path but I could never get to work properly on my 2017 YZ250FX with 13mm(?) of pull and a more curved path. Changing mounting positions, orientations, and attachment methods for the slave cylinder couldn't fix the problem. I am awaiting delivery of a new 2023 Husky TE150i so I'm hoping to be able to rebuild the OLC to convert it from mineral oil to DOT and use it on the new bike with the hydraulic clutch.
I'd try those 'easy pull' levers that use extra leverage... you just have to be careful with adjustment and if you have short fingers you may find it's too much of a stretch. I haven't looked into them yet as I don't seem to get 'clutch' pump with the DR650. Yet! But I'm only doing short rides, I reckon once I start doing multi day rides that cable clutch will be killing my fingers lol.
@@crosstrainingenduro yea, I’m in two minds about it. It’s fine except when I stand, I want to use one finger on the clutch for better purchase on the handle bar.
Did i get that right? I had the idea that the clake might have a spring like system that "compresses" a spring when letting the clutch out and the energy in that spring pushes the lever in together with ylu finger. Anybody know if that's correct?
If you look overseas (Europe) brembo master (dot) 113 euro.....with delivery would still be under $300 aud .Thats a 10mm master ,if you put a 9.5 mm master on it would be lighter(not as light as clake but close) and you would have saved 300 bucks
@@crosstrainingenduro I spoke to someone at Clake they do not recommend using clake with Rekluse, i may try this as it seems to be a simpler mechanism.
Did not work for me. It numbed the feel and did not feel natural. I went back to the original clutch lever and the Clake is gathering dust in my spares bin.
Bummer. I figure you tried adusting the level of 'assist'? I know some guys don't like the feel when it's around 75% lighter and back it off to only 50% or even less...
I'd like to try one but I'm worried I might love it. I have 4 different bikes setup identically, controls-wise. If Clake is a game changer, I would be forced to buy one for each bike O.O
You can fit a hydraulic clutch to most cable clutch bikes, Clake helped me out when I converted my 1980 pe175 to hydraulic. You will still need some skills to get it fitted up and working.
I'd try those 'easy pull' levers that use extra leverage... you just have to be careful with adjustment and if you have short fingers you may find it's too much of a stretch.
Because....? We always want to hear the negatives so viewers get a balanced view. I know their customer support was bad for a while when they were swamped with orders. And that occasionally guys have trouble bleeding them and getting that final air bubble out.
Definitely not cheap! In our 'lighter clutch tips' vid I always suggest the free or cheap mods first. But if you've got the money, or physical issues with your fingers/hand/forearm, then the Clake is a good investment.
@@crosstrainingenduro Honestly the clake is the only true fix.Regardless of having an injury ,the clake should be standard on a Sherco .Stupid hard clutch.Anyway ,I now have a Reiju (proper Gasgas ).One finger clutch all day and it has a kicker!If Reiju can make a big ,strong clutch with a silky soft pull ,why can't sherco?
I've had two Clake Pro's fail in about 6 years. Gone back to stock now and wouldn't recommend them. PS: Lasting X number of years isn't probably a good measure. Some people ride 5 times a year, others 50 times a year. Mine each lasted maybe 80 rides, or roughly 150 hours. They are not a low maintenance, reliable item IMO unfortunately.
That's a good point about the number of hours, we usually ride every single weekend so some of our guys have up to 1000 hours on the One Light clutch. I'm not sure about the reliability of the Clake Pro... never used one.
Yes mate, all good here thanks! Lots of riding coming up... off to ride the Australian desert this week. Then riding in Vietnam and Cambodia later in the year. 😁
What sort of issues? Out of everyone I know, one guy had a lot of trouble bleeding his... and when he finally got it sorted it felt a bit 'notchy'. Clake provided phone support, eventually asked him to send it in for a closer look, and ended up supplying him a new one which worked fine.
@@crosstrainingenduro I had the Clake Prolever-Dual Control for approximately 1,5 years. That include one return for service and still it didn't work properly. The clutch feeling was changing during my ride. Just contact Clake for help is a night mare, takes weeks before any reply. So after spending more than 2000AU$ and it still didn't work, and no answer exept air in the hose etc, I gave up after used more than 60 hours to try make it work, and send it back. The last I heard form Clake was. "I’m very sorry to hear it is still giving you trouble, we will have a look at it when it arrives back here and hopefully find a solution!" They never came back to me with any "solution" and I whasted 2000AU$ for nothing. Sadly to say but I have talket 5-10 others away from the produkt, I'm sure it's great when it works, but customer service is a part of it. That they are sorry, don't give me any money back. BTW I have mention this to you before
Bummer. If it was returned I'd be pushing him for a refund. A few years back they were inundated with orders and their formerly excellent aftersales service slumped. I even emailed the Clake guys to tell them everyone was complaining about no responses and I might have to take my videos down but they just kind of shrugged and said they were trying to cope with the demand. Not a great approach. But apparently it's all quiet again now. Maybe try contact again?
@@crosstrainingenduro I feel I gave them a chance to be reasonable, but they decided not to. There was so many other drivers who tried my bike and was really interested in the product, but i'm glad they didn't buy and then later blame me. Yes, I remember you also had some problems with them, we have talked about this before, One of the times when I was waithing for a reply from Clake, I contact you and you was heliping me. But sadly it seams like they don't care about good customer service. I guess it's just whaste of time to try contact them again. 2000AU$ is a lot of money, but guess Clake need them more than me.
FURTHER COMMENTS Occasionally Clake owners have trouble bleeding the system. It is critical to get rid of every last air bubble. Watch their entire installation vid and follow their tips for removing those last air bubbles. th-cam.com/video/8KXwMKiT6mw/w-d-xo.html A cheap bleeding kit makes a big difference too. Still having problems? Clake have the following tips:
Back off all the force balance assistance by winding the Gold Knob anticlockwise just until you can feel some longitudinal play in the adjuster shaft. Then with the reservoir lid on, loosen the handle bar clamp bolts slightly and rotate the lever up about 45 degrees on the bars. Then cable tie the lever to the bars, leave it like this overnight then in the morning cut the cable tie whilst the unit is still in this position. Then pull the lever in slowly about 10mm then release quickly, repeat at least 6 times.
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Out of curiosity, what was the basic hydraulic setup you were using before the Clake One?
Ive had one on my 300 for a few years now and i cant recommend it enough, have done the rekluse thing(never again).
Clutch control is surgical with this, love it!
You've steered me in the right direction for reduced clutch effort. Watching the install vid on Clake's website sealed the deal. I'd hope you're getting a little kickback from them. Always enjoy your vids! Thank you!
Cheers! Actually we do try to avoid kickbacks so we can stay objective and critical. But the Clake guys were so appreciative of our reviews they've always said they'd service our Clakes for free...
I've had the Clake for 2 years now after discovering it thanks to your videos, the pain of the price has faded since then and apart from the little problems of adjustment and purging, it's a pleasure to ride with this system!
The price only hurts once... hopefully!
I'm 63 and was having trouble with my hand strength and other health problems. I discovered the carnivor diet and 3 years later hands and health are better than 30 years ago. Two and a half years ago I bought a ktm excf250 ,it now has 54000km and 1000hours on it, hands never get saw .
I got one after I broke my wrist 4 years ago, I've got mine on full adjustment, as I didn't recover very well, very weak muscles. Apart from the odd sticking lever, I've never had any issues with mine, I've dropped the bike plenty of times, and found it to be very durable.
00:50 I cut off all my levers, even the
shorties, lol, this one pull feature is essential,
eventually, I'll likely be upgrading to this clayton.
I get clutch pump, never arm pump, I say this
because a lot of riders out there get arm-pump
from riding period, I only get it from clutching,
and nothing is more important for riding skills
than good clutching, save for great balance perhaps.
Been running a clake one for 7 years. Would never run anything else. I have her wound right out (or in?) to 75%. I've found for me, I still maintain the feel, it simply reduces fatigue. I have noticed however the lever does not always return immediately, when riding the most clutch demanding terrain.
A worthwhile trade off.
Good to hear, Luke. If it ever became a problem you could probably use lighter clutch springs and just back the Clake off to about 65% assistance.
have had one on my Xtrainer for a couple years now. Love it. Best mod i've done to the bike.
Had mine since 2016 on a beta 300rr, just now ive had to replace the internals due to corrosion. No i dont pressure wash my bikes in case you're wondering. Water does find a way into these units, and if you dont keep some grease in the cam and rocker assembly you may have the same issue. No stress, replacements got sent within a day of ordering. I love this thing!
Yep, have had mine for about 5-6 years now. An amazing bit of technology. Mine has started playing up. Worst incident recently was arseing off the bike in extreme terrain and the bike sat completely upside down for about 30 seconds till I got over to it and righted it. 1 minute more riding and the clutch gave out completely, lever dropped to the handlebar. Still had 2 hours riding in super gnarly terrain left to get out. Used that marvellous starter motor about a thousand times to negotiate some of the hardest terrain I ride. I have a replacement piston and seal to install when I get around to it.
There's a small chance it might just be a tiny air bubble in the system was dislodged while the bike was upside down? I've heard about this even though it's rare. Might be worth trying a rebleed... but then at five years it's probably a good idea to service it anyway!
Mine did this as well found out it was the slave cylinder o ring was damaged and letting air in not the clake at all
I have used the Clake One light clutch for 6 years, 5 years on a Husky and now on my KTM 300TPI and its a winner. I disassembled the unit after 3 years and lubed it up with grease in the support spring and links and after almost 6 years I replaced the piston because it sometimes lost hydraulic pressure. After hundreds of hours I would consider this normal maintenance. It's great and everyone that gets on my bike immediately noticed how well it works.
Great to hear, Peter. Two of our guys have Clakes about seven years old so I figure they'll need to service them at some point.
@@crosstrainingenduro I guess so, Clake has a repair kit with a new piston. If you can find only the rubber piston seal It will be fine too, the metal parts was as new. It's a bit tricky to change out but I made it on my own.
Uuuuhhh ain't many things antagonize your ride like a stiff sticky hard clutch pull Berry! I use the same principle as the clutch lever system you're using but most of my machines have a cable activated clutch I just put a strategically placed well balanced PULL spring in between the clutch cover lever arm and the cable housing stand out (but not too much as to overpower the internal springs on the clutch itself and get slippage) I get it to pull about 45% lighter and the cost was free just some springs I had lying around and I adjust my lever clicker out to compensate for that extra detent the spring puts in the system been working very nice ! 👍
Great to hear, Mark!
What options for us cable clutch guys? Just lube? What brand; astroglide or KY?
Always KY, Tim. 😂 I'd try those 'easy pull' levers that use extra leverage... you just have to be careful with adjustment and if you have short fingers you may find it's too much of a stretch.
eBay levers with multiple fulcrum positions can be had for $30. The closer to the pivot, the less force, and more distance is required.
Came across CLAKE because of your past videos. The technical solutions caught my engineering mind and for an incredibly high price with tax and importing fees to Germany I had a Pro Lever fitted to my new Beta X-Trainer 2018. Then I swapped for a RR 390 in 2021, kept my CLAKE and even combined it with a Rekluse Auto Clutch. Yes - that is possible. Left hand rear brake, Auto Clutch and being able to snap the clutch.
However, I liked the pure Pro Lever better and went back from Rekluse to stock clutch. Romania is waiting.
Have fun riding fellows!
You'll love Romania, I spent two weeks riding in the Carpathian Mountains!
@@crosstrainingenduro Sure, it will be my 3rd time there. Endless climbs needs clutch control and long steep descents. I love the rear brake being in control by my finger there.
I have two of these, one on my 2015 500 and one on my 2023 300 tpi. The best investment i ever made for any of my bikes. Absolutely love the Clake products. 10/10.
I enjoy your videos and find the informative. I've tried to watch all your videos on the Clake. Did you ever do your review of the Pro lever compared to Clake 2 you were using?
No, I just didn't like the sound of it, Ed. I much preferred the two levers. But there are guys who have tried both and much prefer the Pro...
I have a Clake Pro. Best thing for me that I have fitted to the bike yet. Being able to apply the back brake with my hand while going down a steep incline is priceless
I'm often tempted to get their Clake SLR. In our gnarly terrain, a hand operated rear brake would often be very handy!
Used for years and love it. I replaced the flexible nylon lever with aluminum made from 8mm plate. Helps keep the engagement point consistent, just keep a spare lever in the tool kit, it'll only bend once. I also filled the housing with engine assembly lube, helps keep the pressure washer water out 😊😇
Interesting idea! So you could feel a bit of flex in the nylon lever... I've never noticed that but I'll keep an eye out next ride.
What I did as alternative to buying any type of non-stock lever replacement is simply hang from finger tips for 30 seconds to 60 seconds per day
Yep. I've just been working on a new vid about lighter clutches, and I've included exercises as a free method.
@@crosstrainingenduro nothing wrong with upgrading bike, but my point is not so much about free method, more along the line of rider improvements via fitness and skill development, you always say its 80% rider and 20% bike (and equipment) so basically I'm reinforcing and supporting your benchmark to invest in yourself first before buying add-ons which are secondary, may or may not help :)
I've had the Clake one light on my last 3 KTMs, now on my 2020 300. Absolutely love it. Mates who rode my bike went out and got a Clake also.
Only issue is they are very hard to bleed all the air out! And you need to get it ALL out or it won't work. The install video isn't the best.
Also installed them on cable Yamaha with their kit. Works great if you install it properly and get all the air out (sux)!!
I have heard some guys get that tiny stubborn air bubble that takes ages to get out... thankfully we've never hit that. It thought the installation vid included a few tips if this happened? But maybe it's in the Clake 2 vid? It looks like the discontinued the cable conversion kit, otherwise I'd be keen to get on my DR650! Re: the air bubble, a mate of ours has a bleeding kit that pumps the brake fluid up from the bottom, I think. He reckons it makes bleeding fast and incredibly easy... not sure if that might be worth checking out?
@@crosstrainingenduro totally agree, I always bleed from the bottom up and find that much easier and also seems to work better.
We have tried a few methods and the issue with air bubbles is definitely at the top and inside the flake which seems to trap bubbles easily. I fill the line up completely and load up the Clake with oil then mate the 2. Then bleed from the bottom again..seems to work the best for me.
Definitely interested in any good bleeding system. What bleeding system does your mate have? I'm using the basic syringe method which is a bit clumsy (just like me).
Wow didn't realise they discontinued the cable version (it was very hit and miss imo). The guys here at Clake Melbourne are pretty helpful. Cheers.
I did ring them about a cable clutch conversion a few years back, I was keen to put one on my DR650. I think they said enough riders had issues with the system they didn't want to continue sales. Bummer! I'll email this guy and ask what his bleeding kit is.
@@crosstrainingenduro
Yes, vacuum bleed from the slave cylinder, while continually adding DOT (or Mineral oil, depending). Went from the crappy factory Braktec on my 2022 FE 350, where all the action is close to the handlebars, to now being like my 2016 FE 350 Brembo system, where all the action is just after the free-play on the lever. Doesn't quite have the same feel as my old Brembo, but it's way better than the stock Braktec clutch master cylinder.
Lesson learned: I'll never buy another dirt bike again unless it has factory Brembo hydraulics.
Nice to see something in the world that works. Thanks now I have optimism for the day 😊
It's great to occasionally come across a product that works great. I was just saying yesterday I loved doing the Gaerne SG12 boot review because it's such a great product... even though the $600 price hurt my wallet a bit lol.
@@crosstrainingenduro cheaper than buying a new ankle.
On the DR650 and many other bikes if u move the actuating arm 1 notch back it makes the clutch initially lighter at the expense of heavier in the final stroke, which suits almost single finger use for fine control and when u need full disengagement u got many fingers there anyway.
Interesting idea. So you just take up the slack with adjustment at the lever...
I've had good results with Midwest Mountain Engineering levers on my 500exc and 690 enduro r. Still looking for shorty levers for my 890 adv r.
I've been running a clake one light for about 4 years now and love it. After having broken both my wrists having a featherweight clutch is vital for my riding enjoyment.
One problem I did have though was when I was originally running the clutch on my WR450f with a magura hydraulic clutch conversion. I don't know if it was just that particular setup or what but it would constantly bleed down and require pumping the lever every couple KM of riding and eventually left me with no clutch at all in the middle of a 8 hour sandy desert ride.
Ever since putting on my Beta 350rr in 2019 and now Sherco 300 in 2022 it has been faultless and fantastic. Guys in the local riding group regularly ask about it.
I've been considering putting one on my Tenere 700 too but I'm not certain since it would require a hydraulic conversion again.
I bought one for my YZ 250 cable clutch. I could never get it working right, regardless of the assist, the lever would never return back to full disengagement smoothly. The system was fully bled, so that wasn't the issue.
There was also poor fitment with the supplied magura slave cylinder.
The bike was unrideable with the jerky clutch disengagement. I ended up removing the Clake.
Bummer. Do you know if it was one of the very first models? I knew a guy who bought one of the first ones. Apparently there were some tolerance issues occasionally in early batches, he said they either replaced with brand new units or replaced parts in the original...
I had a similar issue with my Clake 2 on my YZ250X- I was able to resolve it with Clake's help by lowering the camming assist and even taking out a couple of the inner spacers, but then it didn't give quite as much of an assist as I ideally wanted either. Still, it was better than stock so still run it.
@@crosstrainingenduro
I bought mine in late 2017. I'm in the US, so the communication loop was slow. They did have me take some measurements for the slave cylinder, and then sent out a different one. It fit better, but it still requires some spacer washers to get the pull length for the slave cylinder correct.
There were some emails back and forth about trying to get the Clake working right. I sent them video of the lever not returning, but having the unit repaired was never discussed.
Bummer. I did hear stories of them taking ages to respond to customers because they were swamped by demand. Maybe contact them again? If there's something wrong with the Clake then at this price they should do everything possible to either fix it or replace it.
I love mine here in the southern AZ desert. SO much so that I never ended up installing the Rekluse auto clutch I bought and have always ran on my other bikes. Sometimes after a hard training ride and I put the bike away, the next day the clutch lever will be all the way in as if a ghost is pulling on it. Weird. It only takes a flick of the lever to get it back to normal starting position and it is good to go. this rarely happens, but it has happened more than once. I still love this thing and believe I am faster with it as well as better in the technical stuff than with a Rekluse....and to me that is hard to believe.
Weird, I haven't heard of that before!
I luv mine. Best mod available.
i'd guess its some kind of spring preloaded leverage mechanism that only supports your pulling force arround the max. resistance point of the clutch. so it won't preload the clutch when not being pulled. Would be really interesting to see whats actually going on inside
Years ago when I was down south I popped into their factory to get my first one. They had one pulled apart and explained how it worked, but it all went over my head lol. It is based around a spring though...
It's like the diaphragm spring in the KTM clutches. The further away from flush, the more force it generates. Or like a compound bow. When the lever is out, Clake's spring has almost no effect. As soon as you pull the lever and allow the spring to return past a certain point, it increases the force progressively. It only counters lever release force where needed, just like you said.
Your vids just keep giving 🙏
Cheers Simon!
I have a 2022 KTM 300 and LOVE the Clake. Unfortunately it started to stick and had to take it apart. Accidentally over did the screw and unscrewed it from the nut end all the way. Now it’s apart and can’t figure out how to get it back together. But after riding with the stock clutch again for the last 4 rides, I want it back! Hand is tired with the stock clutch in the gnarly, slow going stuff. Can’t find a video on how to properly put it together. May have to buy another one, like it that much.
Clake had amazing customer support years ago. I heard it dropped a fair bit when demand went through the roof, but they are probably on top of things now and back to fast customer response. I'd contact the guys and see if you could ship it back to them for assembly.
@@crosstrainingenduro Good call. I’m going to reach out to them and see what they suggest. Thank you.
Now thats cool 🤔 so suffering from mechanics hands and constructionitis means I qualify for this kind of upgrade ? Is said black magic vodo available in cd old Canada 🇨🇦 and will it work on a lowly CRF250L do tell 🤔 stay safe and shinny side up 🏍👍🙂
If you have a cable clutch like the crf250l does the best thing you can buy for it is a stunt clutch lever. They're for street bikes but work good on dirt bikes too. I had one on a yz250, it makes the pull close to half as hard as stock. There's the rightous stunt clutch lever which is great but expensive and cheap ebay knock offs for next to nothing which are alright and what I had. Moose makes a easy pull lever too that's about the same as the chinese stunt levers.
@@nseric1233 Thankyou will look into these options 👍
I think Clake used to do a conversion kit for cable clutches but not anymore... no sign of it on the website. I agree with Eric, just try one of the 'easy pull' clutch levers that used extra leverage.
I have one…absolutely love it
Had it and sold it, it was fine but I like the feel of the oem clutch more. Did the spacer and lighter springs mod. Otherwise great product
The spacers work quite well too... I love budget mods!
just installed clake one. but the clutch can't fully disengage when pull to the bar. how to adjust that?
See the website info and vids on how to bleed and adjust the system, Ryan.
60-75% reduction sounds wonderful. Unfortunately my WR250F has a cable clutch so the Clake is not an option. I'd love to have one for my hands as well. In the meantime, I've gone to a USA fabricator (RSC lever) who makes an altered pivot design with a bearing in the pivot. While it does require a longer pull (I purchased the full length lever for extra leverage, too), it is nevertheless a noticeable reduction in the force required.
Clake fits on WR. They have a kit. Works great. I've installed a couple.
Sounds great!
@@Cee-FJedi I think it depends a lot on the specific Yamaha model and model year due to the clutch actuation arm length and travel direction. It worked on my son's 2016 YZ250F that required 9mm(?) of travel at the end of the arm in a fairly straight path but I could never get to work properly on my 2017 YZ250FX with 13mm(?) of pull and a more curved path. Changing mounting positions, orientations, and attachment methods for the slave cylinder couldn't fix the problem.
I am awaiting delivery of a new 2023 Husky TE150i so I'm hoping to be able to rebuild the OLC to convert it from mineral oil to DOT and use it on the new bike with the hydraulic clutch.
Any suggestions for the ol bushpig in the way of quality clutch systems?
I'd try those 'easy pull' levers that use extra leverage... you just have to be careful with adjustment and if you have short fingers you may find it's too much of a stretch. I haven't looked into them yet as I don't seem to get 'clutch' pump with the DR650. Yet! But I'm only doing short rides, I reckon once I start doing multi day rides that cable clutch will be killing my fingers lol.
@@crosstrainingenduro yea, I’m in two minds about it. It’s fine except when I stand, I want to use one finger on the clutch for better purchase on the handle bar.
How's your new sherco working so far?
All good, Stefano. I'll be doing a comprehensive review soon. 😊
what cam are yoy using right now?
I didn't know they made different ones for the clutch... just the standard one I guess.
@@crosstrainingenduro oh sorry i mean action camera
Gopro 10, we reviewed it recently
I reverse bled my clake clutch and it had all the air out of it on the first attempt.
Did i get that right? I had the idea that the clake might have a spring like system that "compresses" a spring when letting the clutch out and the energy in that spring pushes the lever in together with ylu finger. Anybody know if that's correct?
They have an explanation on the website... or they used to.
If you look overseas (Europe) brembo master (dot) 113 euro.....with delivery would still be under $300 aud .Thats a 10mm master ,if you put a 9.5 mm master on it would be lighter(not as light as clake but close) and you would have saved 300 bucks
Hey mate had any experience with RNDURO easy clutch? Thanks :)
Haven't heard of that one before
@@crosstrainingenduro th-cam.com/video/9_dOf6hSvdc/w-d-xo.html
@@crosstrainingenduro I spoke to someone at Clake they do not recommend using clake with Rekluse, i may try this as it seems to be a simpler mechanism.
Sounds like a nice replacement.... hopefully I never have to do this
Did not work for me. It numbed the feel and did not feel natural. I went back to the original clutch lever and the Clake is gathering dust in my spares bin.
Bummer. I figure you tried adusting the level of 'assist'? I know some guys don't like the feel when it's around 75% lighter and back it off to only 50% or even less...
Your videos and the places you ride are awesome. "Get your clake blessed" I cracked up laughing. And what is a clutch leaver? haha. jk
Ah, I forgot about that! North Americans tend so to say 'LEH-ver'. 😂
I'd like to try one but I'm worried I might love it. I have 4 different bikes setup identically, controls-wise. If Clake is a game changer, I would be forced to buy one for each bike O.O
It's a problem, it does spoil you lol.
Absolute pig to bleed up until I noticed return port wasn’t lined up correctly from factory after that was very easy process
enything that helps cable clutches that is like this system
You can fit a hydraulic clutch to most cable clutch bikes, Clake helped me out when I converted my 1980 pe175 to hydraulic. You will still need some skills to get it fitted up and working.
I don't want a hydraulic clutch because I can't adjust it
I'd try those 'easy pull' levers that use extra leverage... you just have to be careful with adjustment and if you have short fingers you may find it's too much of a stretch.
I HAD a Clake product, emphasis on HAD.
Because....? We always want to hear the negatives so viewers get a balanced view. I know their customer support was bad for a while when they were swamped with orders. And that occasionally guys have trouble bleeding them and getting that final air bubble out.
@@crosstrainingenduro Let's just call it customer support.
I am 15 and have it on my bike well done
Closer to $650 after GST and shipping ...they're awesome though
Definitely not cheap! In our 'lighter clutch tips' vid I always suggest the free or cheap mods first. But if you've got the money, or physical issues with your fingers/hand/forearm, then the Clake is a good investment.
@@crosstrainingenduro Honestly the clake is the only true fix.Regardless of having an injury ,the clake should be standard on a Sherco .Stupid hard clutch.Anyway ,I now have a Reiju (proper Gasgas ).One finger clutch all day and it has a kicker!If Reiju can make a big ,strong clutch with a silky soft pull ,why can't sherco?
I've had two Clake Pro's fail in about 6 years. Gone back to stock now and wouldn't recommend them. PS: Lasting X number of years isn't probably a good measure. Some people ride 5 times a year, others 50 times a year. Mine each lasted maybe 80 rides, or roughly 150 hours. They are not a low maintenance, reliable item IMO unfortunately.
That's a good point about the number of hours, we usually ride every single weekend so some of our guys have up to 1000 hours on the One Light clutch. I'm not sure about the reliability of the Clake Pro... never used one.
eyup bazza long time no hear hope ure well and rest of reprobates are aswell🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yes mate, all good here thanks! Lots of riding coming up... off to ride the Australian desert this week. Then riding in Vietnam and Cambodia later in the year. 😁
@@crosstrainingenduro good to hear bazza we got summer here i aint been off bike 🤣wot a week to get laid off 🤣🤣🤣
SUPER!!😃
Great info...Thanks yet again...hope the wife won't miss the $$ from the cookie jar
Lots of problems.
What sort of issues? Out of everyone I know, one guy had a lot of trouble bleeding his... and when he finally got it sorted it felt a bit 'notchy'. Clake provided phone support, eventually asked him to send it in for a closer look, and ended up supplying him a new one which worked fine.
@@crosstrainingenduro I had the Clake Prolever-Dual Control for approximately 1,5 years. That include one return for service and still it didn't work properly. The clutch feeling was changing during my ride. Just contact Clake for help is a night mare, takes weeks before any reply. So after spending more than 2000AU$ and it still didn't work, and no answer exept air in the hose etc, I gave up after used more than 60 hours to try make it work, and send it back.
The last I heard form Clake was.
"I’m very sorry to hear it is still giving you trouble, we will have a look at it when it arrives back here and hopefully find a solution!"
They never came back to me with any "solution" and I whasted 2000AU$ for nothing.
Sadly to say but I have talket 5-10 others away from the produkt, I'm sure it's great when it works, but customer service is a part of it. That they are sorry, don't give me any money back.
BTW I have mention this to you before
Bummer. If it was returned I'd be pushing him for a refund. A few years back they were inundated with orders and their formerly excellent aftersales service slumped. I even emailed the Clake guys to tell them everyone was complaining about no responses and I might have to take my videos down but they just kind of shrugged and said they were trying to cope with the demand. Not a great approach. But apparently it's all quiet again now. Maybe try contact again?
@@crosstrainingenduro I feel I gave them a chance to be reasonable, but they decided not to.
There was so many other drivers who tried my bike and was really interested in the product, but i'm glad they didn't buy and then later blame me.
Yes, I remember you also had some problems with them, we have talked about this before, One of the times when I was waithing for a reply from Clake, I contact you and you was heliping me.
But sadly it seams like they don't care about good customer service.
I guess it's just whaste of time to try contact them again.
2000AU$ is a lot of money, but guess Clake need them more than me.