Have had this clutch on my 2014 300RR for 6 years now (should tick over 600 hours next couple of months!!!! on just one piston and ring change). Generally the Clake has been fantastic. But it has proven to be VERY finicky to get rid of the last little few air bubbles from within its small diameter fluid passages. Tilting it, and lots of tiny hits with a rubber mallet to dislodge the last bubble has proven successful. But I was left seriously in the lurch last year when I took a tumble in very steep countryside and it took me a minute or two to get back to the bike and get it back upright, as it was sitting completely upside down in a bush. A minute later the Clake failed completely (air bubble dislodged????) and the next two hours was purgatory, having to use the electric start and kill switch about a million times negotiating goat tracks with horrible drop offs in a blizzard... Good thing the Beta has a very robust elec start :)
Damn air bubbles. Three guys in our group have Clakes and we've never had problems, but I regularly read about those who do. It makes me wonder if there was some kind of redesign they could do so that air bubbles occurred less....
@@crosstrainingadventure Just mount one of these electric massage pistols to your handlebar during the bleeding. It will shake the tiniest bubble into the bubble hell.
I've been using mine for 3 years now, I broke my wrist 4 years ago, and haven't had the same stamina I used to, I recall a 3 hour ride of fast single track, by the end I couldn't pull the clutch at all, I've not had this problem since, and apart from it getting sticky when hot, I've not had any issues with mine, I love it.
I've had a Clake on my last 3 KTMs and a few mates Yammy's. Absolutely love it. It's a real pain to bleed and setup initially as any air bubbles will render it useless! Also most hand guards don't fit, bark busters do and my Fastway do.
I've lived all my Clake products, and have used the ProLever since 2014. KTM450 EXC, Freeride and Beta 300rr. My latest addition is the One Light Clutch for a Beta 200rr. I'll probably stick with just the OLC because i don't ride as fast for as long so don't benefit as much from a finger clutch& brake pull.
on my dr650,i use warp 9/ 3 finger levers and a DRZ 400 clutch arm,slightly longer than on the dr,plus its alloy so my bushpig is lighter and i go faster,anyways works a treat..
Only had mine for a year or so. At first it wouldn’t extend all the way back out. Before I emailed and got the proper instructions to get the last “micro“ bubble out I actually got used to just extending it with my finger. But after the fix it has worked perfectly.
That is what I ended up using to reduce the clutch pull on my WR250F as I'm also working through some hand issues. There isn't too much black magic to them - just physics. A nice bearing in the pivot and a relocated pivot point where the clutch cable attaches. Force reduction was significant for me - I measured something like half the original pull (both OEM and RSC levers tested on a new OEM Yamaha cable.) It is a nicely manufactured part, too. They make a few short lever versions but I went with the longest to maximize leverage.
@@crosstrainingadventure Eh - not horrendous? ~$230 AUS. Little spendy but good features. Fairly on par price compared to some of the other cable actuating options out there.
Why don’t you look into making a longer operating arm “down there”? Increasing the length will decrease the effort. Surely you can have something fabricated or even weld a piece onto the end of your current lower clutch arm.
The dr650 you can replace the actuator arm where the cable attaches to the engine with one from a drz400 which is slightly longer. Only word of caution is to make sure it's properly adjusted so you aren't slipping the clutch unnecessarily. I'm running a magura hyd clutch system with a drz400 actuator arm on mine, and the slave cylinder has juuuuuust enough stroke to make it work properly when shimmed right lol
There seems to be plenty of adjustment with the DRZ clutch arm still. I've just released our vid about this on the enduro channel. I can notice a tiny bit of clutch drag when it's cold and pushing the bike around in gear (with the engine off) but zero problems once warmed up.
Ive never understood the mystery of how the clake works... the adjust knob is adjusting a spring that makes the clutch lever easier to pull, its that simple.
Well... it would lead to clutch slipping if it was that simple. Instead of leverage, some of the energy is stored when the clutch is released, then used again when you next pull it in. Black magic and devilry lol.
@crosstrainingadventure I swear to God, it's a spring that you can wind the tension on and off lol. That's why you lose the feeling when you wind it to maximum lightness.
It can't be or the clutch would slip. Simple test... drop the clutch in second gear. Then do the same thing after the spring adjustment. There will be no change in the clutch take up.
Have had this clutch on my 2014 300RR for 6 years now (should tick over 600 hours next couple of months!!!! on just one piston and ring change). Generally the Clake has been fantastic. But it has proven to be VERY finicky to get rid of the last little few air bubbles from within its small diameter fluid passages. Tilting it, and lots of tiny hits with a rubber mallet to dislodge the last bubble has proven successful. But I was left seriously in the lurch last year when I took a tumble in very steep countryside and it took me a minute or two to get back to the bike and get it back upright, as it was sitting completely upside down in a bush. A minute later the Clake failed completely (air bubble dislodged????) and the next two hours was purgatory, having to use the electric start and kill switch about a million times negotiating goat tracks with horrible drop offs in a blizzard... Good thing the Beta has a very robust elec start :)
Damn air bubbles. Three guys in our group have Clakes and we've never had problems, but I regularly read about those who do. It makes me wonder if there was some kind of redesign they could do so that air bubbles occurred less....
@@crosstrainingadventure Just mount one of these electric massage pistols to your handlebar during the bleeding. It will shake the tiniest bubble into the bubble hell.
I've been using mine for 3 years now, I broke my wrist 4 years ago, and haven't had the same stamina I used to, I recall a 3 hour ride of fast single track, by the end I couldn't pull the clutch at all, I've not had this problem since, and apart from it getting sticky when hot, I've not had any issues with mine, I love it.
I've had a Clake on my last 3 KTMs and a few mates Yammy's. Absolutely love it. It's a real pain to bleed and setup initially as any air bubbles will render it useless! Also most hand guards don't fit, bark busters do and my Fastway do.
I've lived all my Clake products, and have used the ProLever since 2014. KTM450 EXC, Freeride and Beta 300rr. My latest addition is the One Light Clutch for a Beta 200rr. I'll probably stick with just the OLC because i don't ride as fast for as long so don't benefit as much from a finger clutch& brake pull.
I love, love, love the two I have for my Beta 350 and X-Trainer.
on my dr650,i use warp 9/ 3 finger levers and a DRZ 400 clutch arm,slightly longer than on the dr,plus its alloy so my bushpig is lighter and i go faster,anyways works a treat..
I just did the DRZ clutch arm mod, Murray. Love it! Wish I'd tried it sooner... I've got a vid coming out about it soon.
Only had mine for a year or so. At first it wouldn’t extend all the way back out. Before I emailed and got the proper instructions to get the last “micro“ bubble out I actually got used to just extending it with my finger. But after the fix it has worked perfectly.
Great to hear. It seems most of the time there' no problem with that pesky last remaining bubble... but annoying when it happens.
I noticed you blokes were sticking to the 20 km/h limit on the Goat Track - good work, thinking of the kiddies always...
Kids as in young goats? 😂
@@crosstrainingadventure who knows what locals keep as pets up there...
I got one and it fricking amazing how light it actually is
Clever mate
RSC (Righteous Stunt Clutch) clutch lever for the 650. One finger pull, high quality and look great. Had one on my old XR600R.
That is what I ended up using to reduce the clutch pull on my WR250F as I'm also working through some hand issues. There isn't too much black magic to them - just physics. A nice bearing in the pivot and a relocated pivot point where the clutch cable attaches. Force reduction was significant for me - I measured something like half the original pull (both OEM and RSC levers tested on a new OEM Yamaha cable.) It is a nicely manufactured part, too. They make a few short lever versions but I went with the longest to maximize leverage.
I'll be doing a vid about mods for cable clutches soon and I mention stunt levers. Is the RSC expensive?
@@crosstrainingadventure Eh - not horrendous? ~$230 AUS. Little spendy but good features. Fairly on par price compared to some of the other cable actuating options out there.
Why don’t you look into making a longer operating arm “down there”?
Increasing the length will decrease the effort.
Surely you can have something fabricated or even weld a piece onto the end of your current lower clutch arm.
Actually we str covering that in an upcoming vid about lighter pull for cable clutches. 👍
The dr650 you can replace the actuator arm where the cable attaches to the engine with one from a drz400 which is slightly longer.
Only word of caution is to make sure it's properly adjusted so you aren't slipping the clutch unnecessarily.
I'm running a magura hyd clutch system with a drz400 actuator arm on mine, and the slave cylinder has juuuuuust enough stroke to make it work properly when shimmed right lol
There seems to be plenty of adjustment with the DRZ clutch arm still. I've just released our vid about this on the enduro channel. I can notice a tiny bit of clutch drag when it's cold and pushing the bike around in gear (with the engine off) but zero problems once warmed up.
Will this work with a rekluse?? Thanks for all your vids by the way :)
Hmmm... I can't see any reason why not. Might be worth trying to find someone who has combined them to check though.
@@crosstrainingadventure thanks again for all your videos mate.
Ive never understood the mystery of how the clake works... the adjust knob is adjusting a spring that makes the clutch lever easier to pull, its that simple.
Well... it would lead to clutch slipping if it was that simple. Instead of leverage, some of the energy is stored when the clutch is released, then used again when you next pull it in. Black magic and devilry lol.
@crosstrainingadventure I swear to God, it's a spring that you can wind the tension on and off lol. That's why you lose the feeling when you wind it to maximum lightness.
It can't be or the clutch would slip. Simple test... drop the clutch in second gear. Then do the same thing after the spring adjustment. There will be no change in the clutch take up.
Ol' lady hands Barry, thats what theyre gonna call ya
😂 I'll invite them on one of our hard enduro rides and see how they go!
I'm still dreaming about hydraulic clutch. I need to get in the 21 century
We are st Anthony of the desert ✝️⚙️
Join us at our annual clutch blessing
Wanty mcwanterton take my money
Meh.. I drum a lot, I don’t get much arm pump purely because of that happy accident.