Your product did a great job of fixing my 70 year old cast iron toilet flange. The original flange was long gone, and one of the previous owners had attempted to repair it once with what appeared to be a flat plate with a wax ring both above and below it. Most of the wax was gone, and it all seemed misaligned. I purchased your product but I was misled by a user on the Home Depot website, recommending that people use reinforced wax rings. I was having a hard time anchoring your product and have the inner part of your seal line up with the lip of the reinforced wax ring that I had stuck down, causing your seal to deform. Probably due to my masonry bit walking a bit as I was drilling through tile and then my slab. I ended up putting down a standard wax ring, and it worked perfectly. You saved me hundreds and hundreds of dollars. Thank you.
I installed this and followed the instructions but there was still some sewer gas leakage. I thought at first that it was coming from the top seal and put a wax ring between the flange and the toilet but that didn't resolve it. As it turned out, the gas leak was coming from the bottom seal. In our case, I put this over a lead pipe and there was about a 3/8 inch distance from the concrete floor and the bathroom tile so I doubled up on the wax ring and that resolved the issue. I'm posting this because the directions weren't that clear so hoping this might help someone else. The 2nd wax ring completely sealed up the bottom so there were no pin-hole gaps for the gas to escape. Also, don't be afraid to put a wax ring on top too. They say it doesn't need it but your flange has to be perfectly level so if you can't do that, just spend the extra $2 and get the ring. It won't hurt anything.
I use these all the time when a customer has a toilet flange that is flush with floor or alittle below the floor. I put a wax ring down first a thick one this way the flange spreads the wax ring all around really good, I then put a thin / regular wax ring on top then I set the toilet, never had a call back or leak when using two wax rings the first wax ring thick no cone , just plain thick wax ring then the thin / regular wax ring on top.
My flange was installed on top of existing floor. The wax ring made it way too thick, and the actual lip of the toilet fit down inside the blue fixer without any wax. In this situation, is wax still required?
@@facilitiesmanagement8935 I ended up doing a wax ring below as the directions stated. Tried it and it leaked just a little, added another wax ring on top of the flange fixer and it's been a few days and no rocking no leaking.
So you get this thing installed. Do I now buy the Danco Perfect Seal Toilet Wax Ring with Bolts and put the toilet over that? What if the bolts are too short?
I used this after having to replace the entire existing flange. The instructions say to use a wax ring between the flange and Hydroseat. My brand new toilet is leaking. What do you suggest?
Why can’t I use the outside bolt holes to screw into a concrete floor? Why would I have to use the inner bolt holes and drill both through the flange and concrete to attach this?
@@kings17court I ended up using the outside bolt holes and some tapcon screws and a hammer drill to attach mine to the concrete floor and it worked great. Going through the existing flange wouldn’t have worked for me as it was very corroded and the screws would not have been able to grab onto anything.
I see that a wax ring between the floor flange and the Hydroseat is required to make a seal. I can't see why it would be a bad thing to put a wax ring between the Hydroseat and the toilet too, even though your instructions don't suggest it. I just don't trust a loose-fitting rubber-gasket to keep any flowing water (and other toilet matter) from seeping out the sides. The wax ring is a MUCH thicker barrier.
I'm part of the 1% where my flange is just a little bit too big to use this, like by a few millimeters. I really wish the tabs were flexible or more sizes were available.
I don't know. I installed a hydroseat flange fixer on top of a broken cast iron flange. Loved the idea, the price. I installed it exactly as directed, debris removed, new wax ring, hydroseat on top of wax, screwed it down securely at 4 points, installed toilet securely and got a horrible intermittent sewer odor. I would say I'm disappointed in the product. I ended up cutting out the entire cast iron pipe down to the basement and piecing in PVC
Confused. Step 4 of the instructions says "Remove bolts from floor flange and set aside. If floor flange is damaged, replace". If I replace the flange then I don't need your Hydroseat product, right? Reminds me of the Steve Martin joke - "you can be a millionaire! How? First, get a million dollars".
This is why I am here, I bought this to put over a rusted and corroded cast iron flange, that would be extremely difficult to remove. I was under the impression it could be put over the existing flange. But then the instructions say to remove it, which has only caused me confusion.
@@evabobeva77 Oh great, just when I thought I had recovered from this nightmare. Kidding. Wow, if you're the chick in the avatar and you're doing this work then I'm impressed. I watched youtubes on fixing cast iron flanges and that looks like a miserable job
@@bryanpiereson8083 I’m actually thinking about trying to remove the old flange and using one of those nifty oaty flanges that expands to fit inside the pipe. Not sure yet. I’ve watched a few videos and it looks doable, however none of the videos show the process involved when the subfloor is concrete, so I’m not sure if the process of removal will be more involved. No matter which way I go, it gave me a good excuse to finally purchase a hammer drill. And yes, that’s me, and yes I really have no problems getting my hands dirty and fixing things. I work on cars, too. You’d be surprised at what a girl can do.
@@evabobeva77 If I recall, those expanding flanges were noted on HD's site as "not to code". If not, why not, and why do they sell them? If they work then who cares? Questions questions. I also have a concrete subfloor and already had a heavy duty HF dual function hammer/hammer drill. I excavated concrete, spliced in new pipe, poured in concrete, and put on a standard flange. But I have ABS pipe. Your case is different. Does Oatey advise using expanding flanges on iron pipe? If so, that is tempting. By the way, where are you located and what car do you work on? I'm in LA and have a '74 911.
@@bryanpiereson8083 oatey makes an expanding flame specifically for cast iron. I only work on my own cars. Sadly I no longer have a classic car. I used to drive a ‘68 Dodge Monaco station wagon that I miss dearly. One day I will have another old car, it’s just not in the cards right now.
Does NOT make sense... Why would you put the wax under the flange??? The wax is supposed to go between the flange and the toilet.... In every diagram I have seen, shows that the order is: *****Top to bottom**** Toilet Wax Flange Floor You showed Toilet Flange Wax Floor. In your instructions and video How are you planning on the water not to leak between the toilet and the flange?
That's how these were engineered. The rubber seal replaces the wax. This enables you to move the toilet without disturbing the wax ring if you didn't set it just right.
Your product did a great job of fixing my 70 year old cast iron toilet flange. The original flange was long gone, and one of the previous owners had attempted to repair it once with what appeared to be a flat plate with a wax ring both above and below it. Most of the wax was gone, and it all seemed misaligned. I purchased your product but I was misled by a user on the Home Depot website, recommending that people use reinforced wax rings. I was having a hard time anchoring your product and have the inner part of your seal line up with the lip of the reinforced wax ring that I had stuck down, causing your seal to deform. Probably due to my masonry bit walking a bit as I was drilling through tile and then my slab. I ended up putting down a standard wax ring, and it worked perfectly. You saved me hundreds and hundreds of dollars. Thank you.
I installed this and followed the instructions but there was still some sewer gas leakage. I thought at first that it was coming from the top seal and put a wax ring between the flange and the toilet but that didn't resolve it. As it turned out, the gas leak was coming from the bottom seal. In our case, I put this over a lead pipe and there was about a 3/8 inch distance from the concrete floor and the bathroom tile so I doubled up on the wax ring and that resolved the issue. I'm posting this because the directions weren't that clear so hoping this might help someone else. The 2nd wax ring completely sealed up the bottom so there were no pin-hole gaps for the gas to escape. Also, don't be afraid to put a wax ring on top too. They say it doesn't need it but your flange has to be perfectly level so if you can't do that, just spend the extra $2 and get the ring. It won't hurt anything.
I use these all the time when a customer has a toilet flange that is flush with floor or alittle below the floor. I put a wax ring down first a thick one this way the flange spreads the wax ring all around really good, I then put a thin / regular wax ring on top then I set the toilet, never had a call back or leak when using two wax rings the first wax ring thick no cone , just plain thick wax ring then the thin / regular wax ring on top.
YOUR ON POINT!!! SO NANY DONT KNOW HOW TO USE THESE HYDRO SEATS!!!! BETTER WITH WAX!
licensed plumber used this product worked great when installed properly
The danco hydro cap is also great.
Thank you for your video. Question: 1) After you put down the wax, how can you drill four inner holes to the concretes?
Concrete screws. Must pre drill holes
My flange was installed on top of existing floor. The wax ring made it way too thick, and the actual lip of the toilet fit down inside the blue fixer without any wax. In this situation, is wax still required?
How did you make out? I'm in the same situation.
@@aaronr7389 I ended up adding one of the waxless rubber rings just to make myself feel better. I never did have any leaks without it though.
@@facilitiesmanagement8935 I ended up doing a wax ring below as the directions stated. Tried it and it leaked just a little, added another wax ring on top of the flange fixer and it's been a few days and no rocking no leaking.
So you get this thing installed. Do I now buy the Danco Perfect Seal Toilet Wax Ring with Bolts and put the toilet over that? What if the bolts are too short?
Thanks for the info! Nice to know different whole applications!
Do I need to put another wax ring between the fixit flange and toilet?
No
Excellent product !
I used this after having to replace the entire existing flange. The instructions say to use a wax ring between the flange and Hydroseat. My brand new toilet is leaking. What do you suggest?
Why can’t I use the outside bolt holes to screw into a concrete floor? Why would I have to use the inner bolt holes and drill both through the flange and concrete to attach this?
I don't see why you can't use the outside "tab" bolt holes to secure to concrete. It would be nice if Danco actually answered some of these questions.
@@kings17court I ended up using the outside bolt holes and some tapcon screws and a hammer drill to attach mine to the concrete floor and it worked great. Going through the existing flange wouldn’t have worked for me as it was very corroded and the screws would not have been able to grab onto anything.
My plan is to use the outside holes to anchor this into concrete. I am installing this tonight. I'll report back with my results.
@@chickensmack and how did it go?
@@nothanks666 - I got delayed. I’m in the middle of it now.
This is the second one for the basement bat. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
I see that a wax ring between the floor flange and the Hydroseat is required to make a seal. I can't see why it would be a bad thing to put a wax ring between the Hydroseat and the toilet too, even though your instructions don't suggest it. I just don't trust a loose-fitting rubber-gasket to keep any flowing water (and other toilet matter) from seeping out the sides. The wax ring is a MUCH thicker barrier.
This is why I'm here! Doesn't make sense to me NOT to have a second one.
I used a wax ring in between and it worked
would I still need or would a Wax Ring cover still help or best to use one or the other??
Thanks
Is the metal in this HydroSeat susceptible to rust?
I'm part of the 1% where my flange is just a little bit too big to use this, like by a few millimeters. I really wish the tabs were flexible or more sizes were available.
THE EXTRA THICK WAX NEXT TIME WILL SET YOU STRAIGHT!!😊
Do you have to remove all of it to install it
I'm confused about why it doesn't need another wax ring before putting in the toilet.
Because it's self sealing
Bc i would do it to be safe.
The toilet output sits in rubber which goes down into the wax ring below.
The whole top is a rubber seal, so it doesn't need another
I know this is from 2 years ago but I put one just to be sure in case the flange wasn't perfectly level with the floor. It won't hurt anything
I don't know. I installed a hydroseat flange fixer on top of a broken cast iron flange. Loved the idea, the price. I installed it exactly as directed, debris removed, new wax ring, hydroseat on top of wax, screwed it down securely at 4 points, installed toilet securely and got a horrible intermittent sewer odor. I would say I'm disappointed in the product. I ended up cutting out the entire cast iron pipe down to the basement and piecing in PVC
I’m confused why a wax ring isn’t included
If this requires screwing it into the floor, then why doesn't it come with screws?
Or the washers?
Or a toilet
@@Googaliemoogalie or a drill?
@@evabobeva77 or a house
Good 👍
Confused. Step 4 of the instructions says "Remove bolts from floor flange and set aside. If floor flange is damaged, replace". If I replace the flange then I don't need your Hydroseat product, right? Reminds me of the Steve Martin joke - "you can be a millionaire! How? First, get a million dollars".
This is why I am here, I bought this to put over a rusted and corroded cast iron flange, that would be extremely difficult to remove. I was under the impression it could be put over the existing flange. But then the instructions say to remove it, which has only caused me confusion.
@@evabobeva77 Oh great, just when I thought I had recovered from this nightmare. Kidding. Wow, if you're the chick in the avatar and you're doing this work then I'm impressed. I watched youtubes on fixing cast iron flanges and that looks like a miserable job
@@bryanpiereson8083 I’m actually thinking about trying to remove the old flange and using one of those nifty oaty flanges that expands to fit inside the pipe. Not sure yet. I’ve watched a few videos and it looks doable, however none of the videos show the process involved when the subfloor is concrete, so I’m not sure if the process of removal will be more involved. No matter which way I go, it gave me a good excuse to finally purchase a hammer drill.
And yes, that’s me, and yes I really have no problems getting my hands dirty and fixing things. I work on cars, too. You’d be surprised at what a girl can do.
@@evabobeva77 If I recall, those expanding flanges were noted on HD's site as "not to code". If not, why not, and why do they sell them? If they work then who cares? Questions questions. I also have a concrete subfloor and already had a heavy duty HF dual function hammer/hammer drill. I excavated concrete, spliced in new pipe, poured in concrete, and put on a standard flange. But I have ABS pipe. Your case is different. Does Oatey advise using expanding flanges on iron pipe? If so, that is tempting. By the way, where are you located and what car do you work on? I'm in LA and have a '74 911.
@@bryanpiereson8083 oatey makes an expanding flame specifically for cast iron.
I only work on my own cars. Sadly I no longer have a classic car. I used to drive a ‘68 Dodge Monaco station wagon that I miss dearly. One day I will have another old car, it’s just not in the cards right now.
Not enough detail...
EXTRA THICK WAX RING WOULD OF TOOK CARE OF THE SEAL, IT LAST ABOUT 10 YEARS!!!! IF IT IS A COOL AREA IT WILL LAST ABOUT 15 TO 20 YEARS!!!!😊
Does NOT make sense...
Why would you put the wax under the flange???
The wax is supposed to go between the flange and the toilet....
In every diagram I have seen, shows that the order is:
*****Top to bottom****
Toilet
Wax
Flange
Floor
You showed
Toilet
Flange
Wax
Floor.
In your instructions and video
How are you planning on the water not to leak between the toilet and the flange?
That's how these were engineered. The rubber seal replaces the wax. This enables you to move the toilet without disturbing the wax ring if you didn't set it just right.
Terrible instructions, not very detailed at all.
Thank u!😁