Nice video! I’m a master plumber, one thing that I’d recommend for anybody doing this is to buy flange extension kit that has a manufactured rubber or foam seal. The silicone will not seal well on old material
I have precisely same problem in my house, last 3 days I been thinking what to do, but this video gave me strength. Water just leaking from the concrete cracks sometime. Plumbers are great, but my tight budget prevents me use their services. I just want to thank a million this videographer and great comments below. God bless you all.
I’m going to embarked on my fist toiler leak repair. I’ve watch several of your videos and now I feel pretty confident that I can get this done. Thank you. Also, great camera work and gifted instructor
I have a severely bad flange issue (totally improperly done years before we bought this place), and this video (plus several others) have really helped me a LOT! I "can" be fairly handy when I finally dig in, but not naturally good at it (like my dad was -- inherited none of his ability to just make things work). If thing get too tricky, I'm smart enough to stop and call someone, but I think when I finish finally getting this new toilet in, I will feel glad I took my time (we have a second bath, thank God), and research the hell out of it until I get it fixed, and done right. Thanks for posting this video.
Omg that was amazing. Thats my exact issue I've been dealing with. How did you know? Wow. Bless you for sharing your video. This really helps me a lot.. Thank you again.
I recall seeing somewhere that one should never use silicone caulk on a plumbing project except for external caulking because it will eventually leak in short order.
Thanks for the tips. We've had a new water efficient toilet installed on top of oak hardwood flooring. The contractor used 3 wax seals and my wife and I have noticed a stink (sewer gas most likely) since the install was done. Your method seems to be the best starting with the flange spacer and going from there. Thanks very much!
If you haven't already, and if you can, check under house for leaks while flushing. Sounds like a wax ring got dislodged during installation. Using 3 is crazy, using two is ok in most situations but I try and stay away from wax rings with "plastic horns"
You need to drill that into the floor (drill a pilot hole through the existing metal flange and into the wood below it or just into the existing flange with a metal screw if not broken and is solid). The way it's installed in the video, the toilet/spacer is hanging on to the floor with the silicone only and could potentially slide or pull off eventually, causing a leak.
I’m not so sure @Marc. I think PE is using the PVC flange as a spacer. The flange bolts are firmly attached to the metal flange underneath as well as the spacer. You would be correct if the metal flange was unstable or broken.
@@kgill5 another video i saw, dude just drilled #8 deck screws through the extender into the existing (ABS) flange to sandwich it together. The nuts used here seem wrong to me, where they need to be used after the toilet is in place, but there probably is room for them under the toilet anyway, so it should be ok... im obviously not a plumber
The bolts are, or SHOULD BE, secured under the cast iron flange whereas the plastic spacer, is just a spacer. The pressure applied, the stickiness of the silicone as well as the wax ring creating additional pressure, should be good for a long while.
The DANCO all-in-one toilet installation kit can solve the problem of a flange that is substantially below the top of the tile or flooring you're using in the bathroom. That kit has options to install a toilet on a flange that is below, level, or above the top of the flooring so all of your situations are covered without the need for extension rings.
Great video without skipping any steps. I wanted to watch before taking my toilet out (1 bathroom), to plan for any unforeseen problems. Good camera work, good instructions. I am making a run to HD before starting my project so that I can have the pieces on hand that I may need. I am now a subscriber. Thank you. ☮️
Thank you sir! I'm having my subfloor & tile floor repaired today and i told the flooring guy I would do the plumbing detach/reset myself (since I love working on plumbing) - I had no idea about the silicone step between the flange & the spacer (which makes sense because I was wondering wtf that adhesion was when I removed the spacer and I was cleaning off the current spacer) You probably saved me a future leak ;) You earned yourself a sub! One last thing , you made me laugh about getting the silicone on your hand/glove, that's legit my luck too with every single project ;)
Excellent video. Your music is great. It did not overpower you speaking voice yet it provide some ambience. I wish others would watch your video just because of your presentation skills and great choice of microphone,
I just did the exact same thing to raise my floor 3/8" after installing LVP, except I took out the screws holding the original flange in, ( Mine was in a wood sub floor ) and THEN ran them back in, this time through the newly applied spacer which I put down in a thick bed of silicone over the original. Spacer ended up being 1/8" higher than the finished floor which is exactly what the toilet maker and wax ring instructions recommended. Put in thick wax ring with a horn, and good to go.
We are having this exact issue right now. Last "professional" plumber used two wax to seal the gap instead of using a flange extender like in this video. Years later we are having the same issue. great video. glad i found it before calling another plumber to fix the issue.
Do not do what this man did call a plumber or even text me lol. Im willing to tell you how to do it right where it won't need future corrections . We all can use a helping hand these days! Please dont do this in your house!
Additional wax ring between the flange and spacer is a much better option than silicone. After adding a spacer, you set a toilet , flush it, and it breaks the seal of the silicone because you didn't wait for the silicone to dry. Also a good idea to screw the spacer to the subfloor.
He said the silicone dries in 30 minutes. Also, "if you were listening", early in the video he said he was shown what to do by a certified plumber! Are you a plumber?
The flange is rusted, replace it. The flange bots are secured to that rusted flange. When that flange completes rusting through, nothing but gravity will be holding the toilet in place. Better to do the job right the first time and install a new flange.
in this scenario the flange is part of the iron, so the entire hub would need to be replaced. If there was money in the budget we'd definitely opt to replace the entire thing.
Hey there! Loving your videos. Plumbing is a pain in the backside isn’t it? Silicone was very smart. The only changes I would make is finding some toilet hardware that will not rust out eventually. Basically anything magnetic will rust out. We use Johnni bolt brand 5/16 hardware with an extra set of nuts to hold those bolts in place when hour awkwardly attempting to place the bowl back. Wax is good. Those solid rubber gaskets are better and don’t leak if they get plunged a lot. Also if warm air from below happens to flow through the floors like radiant heat. Lookin good home repair tutor.
Thanks for the great programs you share. The smart toilets don't have the screw holes to secure then. What tips do you have for securing them to the floor? Thanks
Nice job securing the flange spacer with washers and nuts. Too many times I've tried to replace toilets only to find the bolt spinning when attempting to undo the nut. It's frustrating, especially since securing the flange with washers and nuts prevents this.
thank you, using the nuts also helps hold the bolts in place when setting the bowl. We like that method to also pre-set the rough-in distance so that the bowl is equidistant from the wall.
Hi, appreciate the details. The bolt slots looked different in the spacer and original flange. Does this mean you would have to remove the spacer to take the bolts out if you needed to eventually? Thanks.
Hi, thanks for the video. Once you’ve put the new plastic flange on, shouldn’t it be mechanically anchored to the floor somehow? Or are you relying on the two bolts to do that in the long term? I assume this would only work if the old iron flange wasn’t rusted out to the extent that the bolts no longer naturally anchor in there. I ask because I’m seeing other screw holes on the rim of the new plastic flange that looks like they could be used. Could you drill these out to make it secure. Also, with only two bolts as the anchor points, how can you ensure the new plastic flange is level? Once the silicon has cured and the nuts/washers have been removed (before you place the toilet), it seems that it’s just the silicone providing a bit of a rubbery connection between the old flange and the new. Thanks again.
Here is our situation! I am rehabbing the bathrooms! We have original terrazzo tile on the concrete deck floor. We will remove the tiles, and thin set. So we set the new toilets on the concrete deck or wait till our flooring contractor lays the new flooring?
Same leak problem. Removed the toilet. No flange underneath. Nothing. Nada. Just a blue pipe. Sheesh. Heading out today to get all the bits. Thanks to you I know what I need.
This is a solid video with a few exceptions. Number one always secure the flange spacer to the subfloor with screws. By securing flange spacer to the subfloor you form a solid base for your toilet. This solid base will prevent shifting of your toilet that in time could cause hairline stress fractures in the toilet's base or compromise your wax seal. Number two don't thread on the closet bolts, nuts and washers until the toilet is in place. The closet bolts, nuts and washers are only used to secure the toilet to the floor. The main reason your use a spacer of any type is to raise the flange to just above floor level by 1/8-1/4 inch. The reason for this is to provide space for the exit chute on your toilet to be just below floor level to allow waste to exit freely. His silicone seal will be high enough that it rarely if ever gets wet.
First of all it’s better to use the smaller slots for the bolts, they’re stronger. A lot of flanges break where you put the bolts. Secondly you most definitely should anchor that extension in more than two places
Did you set the toilet on those nuts and washers you compressed that extender down with and then install an additional set of nuts and washers to anchor down the toilet?
so, great video, really helped me to understand... My issue is the plumber removed old toilet and cut the metal pipe below grade but he didn't cut straight, I heard him say "WOOPS!
Great video from beginning to end! Very thorough. I feel ya living in Minneapolis we get snow. This last week has been blue and hot and sunny so today it’s cold and dreary too. Nice cold spring day to do repairs. Rock on 🤘🏼
Ok people this spacer works, just do not use silicone, use plumbers putty and the gaps will lock in with the putty. As long as the old flange is sound and strong, the long bolts is all that is needed to fasten the water closet (toilet is the room, water closet is what you use). Been using these for many years with no problems but I never use silicone, it will not seal to rusty cast iron. Master Plumber since 1987 plumber since 1980
Thanks William for your tip, I used silicone because that's what my plumber did and it worked with no leaks for over 8 years. And this has been the same success.
Silicone is perfectly fine to use in this application. That particular product explicitly states that it is usable on metal. Granted, the extender ring should be screwed to the sub floor (and the Jonni bolts are not supposed to be installed the way they were in this video) in conjunction with that, but, the silicone bit is a valid adhesive. "Water closet" is a technical term for the fixture, but "toilet" is common parlance for said fixture, with many being sold as "toilets." It's generally not exactly accurate to "correct" someone for referring to the fixture as a toilet.
@@johnerickson1484 I couldn't agree more. I once had a "master" plumber tell me that the putty "never dries out". I just shrugged and said, that's strange because I have to throw away my old dried out tubs of plumber's putty about once every couple of years after they become hard as a rock. Silicone I've found to be acceptable as long as it is sandwiched in between two items like a gasket. However, I avoid it like the plague for using as an exterior bead application- I've pulled way too many silicone "snakes" out of tub surround corners etc. for anyone to tell me different.
i just removed my previous flange extender. thank goodness the person had not siliconed it into place like you. He used a an extender that looks like yours but has a soft rubber gasket on each piece. I had to hacksaw several rusted on screws; you don't show that "deconstruction" very painful step..
Very helpful video, but why would only two bolts be enough to stabilize the closet flange push. Wouldnt using 4 bolts (2 long and 2 short) then stabilize the base better?
So was your metal flange broken, and you put the spacer over top? My plastic flange is broken at the slot hole for the bolt. Can I place the spacer over top, since the spacer has the slot holes as well, or do I need to somehow replace the plastic flange that is broken at the bolt hole before using the spacer to get it to the proper height?
I'd use an internal pvc pipe cutter or chisel out the old flange. Then use an external pvc flange so that the next guy could use an internal one. There are videos here on removing an old PVC flange and it is not that bad. I just did this job on my first floor but was a rubber coupling between the pvc and an older cast iron pipe in the unfinished basement so I replaced the flange and the straight section to the coupler. I hope your job (and any reader's) is as easy as that was.
Nice video. Is it me or did he mark the bolt location at 11" instead of 12"? I thought the bolts were supposed to be centered around the hole at equal distances from the wall.
Ok today i installed 2 of thoese homedepot ruber things that have a wax ring attach to them. My flange is aboit 1/4 to 1/2 below my floor since they added lvp over tile. Id i wanna add 1/2 flundge spacers do i need to rwinstall a new wax ring under thoese rubber thingys?
Thank you so much! Have had a problem with my toilet since I bought my house in 2009. Explains why I have leaks. Previous owner tiled floor and flange below floor uggg. The flange on floor is plastic not metal and not screwed down in concrete. Not sure if this is a problem or not? Going to buy extensions hope that will fix the problem?
It’s not a big deal if your flange sits below the flooring. You can buy an extended wax rings. That has 2/5 more wax than a standard wax ring. Rule of thumb: if the flange sits at or above the flooring, standard wax ring. If the flange is below the flooring, extended wax ring.
Which country do you live? It is not available at NZ at all, and I was checking CZ and seems they don't know it there either... Just scroowing the toilet pan directly to the floor! :-( And once the screws snap... imagine the disaster to take them out?
I just took my first toilet out and the flange hovers about an inch off the subfloor, is this good/normal/bad? If I try to push it down, it goes, but then rebounds back to about 1 inch off the floor. I also can't remove it because it seems to be taking pipe with it.
what was the purpose of white silicon ? was it to create a water sealed connection to prevent leakage from in between the main flange and the flange extender ? what happens if we do not apply the silicon ?
I think your toilet is going to hit the wall, you said the mounting bolts needed to be 12" away from the wall, you didn't have 12". Did you find this to be true once you went to set the toilet in place?
The problem with using that oaty spacer is the gap is not a tight seal.If the plumbing stops up water is going to run between the sewer line and that spacer I really do not trust the silicone to make the seal
I'd never done such plumbing job as this before I watched several videos including this to replace a broken toilet flange. Since new thicker tiles were laid on the wood substructure several years ago, there was leak due to broken flange. After watching this video,I went to home depot to buy a 4" flange and a 4" spacer. This combo seemed to fit but the spacer moves around on the flange pretty much and the gap between flange and spacer is not acceptable to me as a dental lab technician. So I bought a 1/4" extender and put it under the flange finishing the job. I feel now comfortable. The method on this video is another option though.
Hey! Redoing my bathroom and trying to decide whether or not I need to replace the flange or not. I know I’m going to need a spacer to raise it but how do you decide whether to use a push tite or not. Mine doesn’t have large channels in the original flange like yours does. Just a small slot for the bolt to go into. It would line up with the slots you used on the spacer. I hope this makes sense.
Nice video! I’m a master plumber, one thing that I’d recommend for anybody doing this is to buy flange extension kit that has a manufactured rubber or foam seal. The silicone will not seal well on old material
But shouldn't that entire thing be replaced? Its already sunk, rusted, and corroded
This seems like trying to put a bandage on a broken pipe.
@@DRAEK05yeah that part confused me the most .. just floating there
I have precisely same problem in my house, last 3 days I been thinking what to do, but this video
gave me strength. Water just leaking from the concrete cracks sometime. Plumbers are great, but
my tight budget prevents me use their services. I just want to thank a million this videographer and
great comments below. God bless you all.
How did it go?
I’m going to embarked on my fist toiler leak repair. I’ve watch several of your videos and now I feel pretty confident that I can get this done. Thank you. Also, great camera work and gifted instructor
I have a severely bad flange issue (totally improperly done years before we bought this place), and this video (plus several others) have really helped me a LOT! I "can" be fairly handy when I finally dig in, but not naturally good at it (like my dad was -- inherited none of his ability to just make things work). If thing get too tricky, I'm smart enough to stop and call someone, but I think when I finish finally getting this new toilet in, I will feel glad I took my time (we have a second bath, thank God), and research the hell out of it until I get it fixed, and done right. Thanks for posting this video.
Omg that was amazing. Thats my exact issue I've been dealing with. How did you know? Wow. Bless you for sharing your video. This really helps me a lot.. Thank you again.
I recall seeing somewhere that one should never use silicone caulk on a plumbing project except for external caulking because it will eventually leak in short order.
Me too.
very helpful! i needed to do this and your video made it easier and less stressful.
Finally a video with excellent audio and a steady camera.
Thanks for the tips. We've had a new water efficient toilet installed on top of oak hardwood flooring. The contractor used 3 wax seals and my wife and I have noticed a stink (sewer gas most likely) since the install was done. Your method seems to be the best starting with the flange spacer and going from there. Thanks very much!
If you haven't already, and if you can, check under house for leaks while flushing. Sounds like a wax ring got dislodged during installation. Using 3 is crazy, using two is ok in most situations but I try and stay away from wax rings with "plastic horns"
Thank you very much...heading out to home depo now...,.lol....this has saved me im sure a lot of time...Thanks again.
Truly gifted instructor....great cadence...nice pace and great camera....very helpful....can't wait to check out other content you have !
Thank you buddy 👍🏼👍🏼🔥🔥
Had a leak problem, your video helped big time,
Thank you
You and your buddy are not just a pro, but THE BEST!~ Thank you
You need to drill that into the floor (drill a pilot hole through the existing metal flange and into the wood below it or just into the existing flange with a metal screw if not broken and is solid). The way it's installed in the video, the toilet/spacer is hanging on to the floor with the silicone only and could potentially slide or pull off eventually, causing a leak.
I’m not so sure @Marc. I think PE is using the PVC flange as a spacer. The flange bolts are firmly attached to the metal flange underneath as well as the spacer. You would be correct if the metal flange was unstable or broken.
@@kgill5 another video i saw, dude just drilled #8 deck screws through the extender into the existing (ABS) flange to sandwich it together. The nuts used here seem wrong to me, where they need to be used after the toilet is in place, but there probably is room for them under the toilet anyway, so it should be ok... im obviously not a plumber
The bolts are, or SHOULD BE, secured under the cast iron flange whereas the plastic spacer, is just a spacer. The pressure applied, the stickiness of the silicone as well as the wax ring creating additional pressure, should be good for a long while.
The DANCO all-in-one toilet installation kit can solve the problem of a flange that is substantially below the top of the tile or flooring you're using in the bathroom. That kit has options to install a toilet on a flange that is below, level, or above the top of the flooring so all of your situations are covered without the need for extension rings.
Thanks for the Tips ! This saves a ton in Repair Costs.
🙌🏼🔥🙌🏼🔥
Great video without skipping any steps. I wanted to watch before taking my toilet out (1 bathroom), to plan for any unforeseen problems. Good camera work, good instructions. I am making a run to HD before starting my project so that I can have the pieces on hand that I may need. I am now a subscriber. Thank you. ☮️
Wow ! You're not a plumber ....... but you explain things better then a plumber. Thank you !
Thank you for taking the time to do this for us!
thank you
The spacer plate has screw holes for a reason, pull closet flange screws, silicone and re screw through both spacer and closet flange.
I was wondering about that.
that's why you buy the longer bolts to go thru both
Thank you - very well done and informative. Think I'm set! Raining here too!
I'm doing this tomorrow. This video gives a lot more confidence. Thanks!
Excellent editing, music and video. Most helpful. Thank you.
Thank you sir! I'm having my subfloor & tile floor repaired today and i told the flooring guy I would do the plumbing detach/reset myself (since I love working on plumbing) - I had no idea about the silicone step between the flange & the spacer (which makes sense because I was wondering wtf that adhesion was when I removed the spacer and I was cleaning off the current spacer)
You probably saved me a future leak ;)
You earned yourself a sub!
One last thing , you made me laugh about getting the silicone on your hand/glove, that's legit my luck too with every single project ;)
Excellent video. Your music is great. It did not overpower you speaking voice yet it provide some ambience. I wish others would watch your video just because of your presentation skills and great choice of microphone,
thank you, hope it helped
Great job on the video bro. Easy to follow instructions and several options to repair the flange. Excellent
I just did the exact same thing to raise my floor 3/8" after installing LVP, except I took out the screws holding the original flange in, ( Mine was in a wood sub floor ) and THEN ran them back in, this time through the newly applied spacer which I put down in a thick bed of silicone over the original. Spacer ended up being 1/8" higher than the finished floor which is exactly what the toilet maker and wax ring instructions recommended. Put in thick wax ring with a horn, and good to go.
I've been wondering if you should take out the screws holding the original flange in to add the spacer(s) on top. Thanks for noting this!
Just amazing and so clear. Best thing of all I can order all the items online. Thanks Heavens.
I really appreciate this video so helpful
Great video. Does the nut you tightened onto the flange extender interfere with the placement of the toilet base?
It shouldn’t
Thanks for the replay.
Info very good / helpful. Music is diastracting and pedestrian.
We are having this exact issue right now. Last "professional" plumber used two wax to seal the gap instead of using a flange extender like in this video. Years later we are having the same issue. great video. glad i found it before calling another plumber to fix the issue.
Do not do what this man did call a plumber or even text me lol. Im willing to tell you how to do it right where it won't need future corrections . We all can use a helping hand these days! Please dont do this in your house!
Additional wax ring between the flange and spacer is a much better option than silicone. After adding a spacer, you set a toilet , flush it, and it breaks the seal of the silicone because you didn't wait for the silicone to dry. Also a good idea to screw the spacer to the subfloor.
i've seen the spacer come with a foam-type sealing ring that adhesives to the spacer to create the seal instead of silicone...
He said the silicone dries in 30 minutes. Also, "if you were listening", early in the video he said he was shown what to do by a certified plumber! Are you a plumber?
@@kenholt8297 over 20yrs
So then wait for the silicone to dry no?
Great video. Video very well done. Commentary simple, easy to understand. Thank You
Super helpful! Now my contractors can stop pooping in the backyard. Thanks!
LOL! I needed a chuckle!
Solid video. Thanks
Super helpful video!
Wondering about leveling the toilet with a shim. You mentioned it but said no more about it. Anyway, great, informative video. Nicely done!
The flange is rusted, replace it. The flange bots are secured to that rusted flange. When that flange completes rusting through, nothing but gravity will be holding the toilet in place. Better to do the job right the first time and install a new flange.
in this scenario the flange is part of the iron, so the entire hub would need to be replaced. If there was money in the budget we'd definitely opt to replace the entire thing.
@@HomeRepairTutor Roger that.
@@HomeRepairTutor lmfao
I agree and will continue looking up more videos.
Hey there! Loving your videos. Plumbing is a pain in the backside isn’t it? Silicone was very smart. The only changes I would make is finding some toilet hardware that will not rust out eventually. Basically anything magnetic will rust out. We use Johnni bolt brand 5/16 hardware with an extra set of nuts to hold those bolts in place when hour awkwardly attempting to place the bowl back. Wax is good. Those solid rubber gaskets are better and don’t leak if they get plunged a lot. Also if warm air from below happens to flow through the floors like radiant heat. Lookin good home repair tutor.
Thanks for the great programs you share. The smart toilets don't have the screw holes to secure then. What tips do you have for securing them to the floor?
Thanks
great video....thank you
Nice job securing the flange spacer with washers and nuts. Too many times I've tried to replace toilets only to find the bolt spinning when attempting to undo the nut. It's frustrating, especially since securing the flange with washers and nuts prevents this.
thank you, using the nuts also helps hold the bolts in place when setting the bowl. We like that method to also pre-set the rough-in distance so that the bowl is equidistant from the wall.
would plumbers putty be a better option than silicone to seal the spacer flange?
Home Repair Tutor what if the toilet flange is broken off..
Irony? Sitting on the toilet watching a video about fixing my toilet.
Beats the s..t out of most regular tv shows.
Hey me too buddy
Me three
Holy shit, me 5. Pun intended
Ain't these shitty comments. ✌️well, learned something new, gotta wipe.
Great video
thanks buddy 👍🏼
Your video came handy just on time . Thank you
Hi, appreciate the details. The bolt slots looked different in the spacer and original flange. Does this mean you would have to remove the spacer to take the bolts out if you needed to eventually? Thanks.
Hi, thanks for the video. Once you’ve put the new plastic flange on, shouldn’t it be mechanically anchored to the floor somehow? Or are you relying on the two bolts to do that in the long term? I assume this would only work if the old iron flange wasn’t rusted out to the extent that the bolts no longer naturally anchor in there. I ask because I’m seeing other screw holes on the rim of the new plastic flange that looks like they could be used. Could you drill these out to make it secure. Also, with only two bolts as the anchor points, how can you ensure the new plastic flange is level? Once the silicon has cured and the nuts/washers have been removed (before you place the toilet), it seems that it’s just the silicone providing a bit of a rubbery connection between the old flange and the new. Thanks again.
I would do just that, screw the spacer to the floor
Thank you for the video.
Very helpful
thank you
Here is our situation! I am rehabbing the bathrooms! We have original terrazzo tile on the concrete deck floor. We will remove the tiles, and thin set. So we set the new toilets on the concrete deck or wait till our flooring contractor lays the new flooring?
Thank you for sharing. Have the same problem. This was a big help.
Thank you
Thanks for the adaptations as they are more likely than not to occur. Outstanding vid.
Same leak problem. Removed the toilet. No flange underneath. Nothing. Nada. Just a blue pipe. Sheesh. Heading out today to get all the bits. Thanks to you I know what I need.
Nice video! Thanks
I’m from PGH and doing the same!
Excellent video 👍
Good video!
Very informative.
This is a solid video with a few exceptions. Number one always secure the flange spacer to the subfloor with screws. By securing flange spacer to the subfloor you form a solid base for your toilet. This solid base will prevent shifting of your toilet that in time could cause hairline stress fractures in the toilet's base or compromise your wax seal. Number two don't thread on the closet bolts, nuts and washers until the toilet is in place. The closet bolts, nuts and washers are only used to secure the toilet to the floor.
The main reason your use a spacer of any type is to raise the flange to just above floor level by 1/8-1/4 inch. The reason for this is to provide space for the exit chute on your toilet to be just below floor level to allow waste to exit freely. His silicone seal will be high enough that it rarely if ever gets wet.
First of all it’s better to use the smaller slots for the bolts, they’re stronger. A lot of flanges break where you put the bolts. Secondly you most definitely should anchor that extension in more than two places
Did you set the toilet on those nuts and washers you compressed that extender down with and then install an additional set of nuts and washers to anchor down the toilet?
And. You forgot to tell people. You need to remove the paper tag on top otherwise the wax wont stick to the plastic and you will have a leak.
QUESTION: So after this repair. You can use a wax ring and they plastic insert with the red on it??
After this you just need the wax ring of the spacer is even or 1/4” above the finished floor
Thanks
so, great video, really helped me to understand... My issue is the plumber removed old toilet and cut the metal pipe below grade but he didn't cut straight, I heard him say "WOOPS!
Great video thank you! Just curious why you didn’t replace the rusted out flange since you already had a new one with you? Thanks in advance
He dint know how
Is plumbers putty an option under the flange instead of the silicon?
Great video from beginning to end! Very thorough.
I feel ya living in Minneapolis we get snow.
This last week has been blue and hot and sunny so today it’s cold and dreary too. Nice cold spring day to do repairs.
Rock on 🤘🏼
Great video. Is there a difference between a flange spacer and a flange extension?
Ok people this spacer works, just do not use silicone, use plumbers putty and the gaps will lock in with the putty. As long as the old flange is sound and strong, the long bolts is all that is needed to fasten the water closet (toilet is the room, water closet is what you use). Been using these for many years with no problems but I never use silicone, it will not seal to rusty cast iron. Master Plumber since 1987 plumber since 1980
Thanks William for your tip, I used silicone because that's what my plumber did and it worked with no leaks for over 8 years. And this has been the same success.
Silicone is perfectly fine to use in this application. That particular product explicitly states that it is usable on metal. Granted, the extender ring should be screwed to the sub floor (and the Jonni bolts are not supposed to be installed the way they were in this video) in conjunction with that, but, the silicone bit is a valid adhesive.
"Water closet" is a technical term for the fixture, but "toilet" is common parlance for said fixture, with many being sold as "toilets." It's generally not exactly accurate to "correct" someone for referring to the fixture as a toilet.
33 year master plumber, putty over time dries and shrinks. That's why wax rings came about.
Silicone is the way to go!
@@johnerickson1484 I couldn't agree more. I once had a "master" plumber tell me that the putty "never dries out". I just shrugged and said, that's strange because I have to throw away my old dried out tubs of plumber's putty about once every couple of years after they become hard as a rock.
Silicone I've found to be acceptable as long as it is sandwiched in between two items like a gasket. However, I avoid it like the plague for using as an exterior bead application- I've pulled way too many silicone "snakes" out of tub surround corners etc. for anyone to tell me different.
@@billybob042665 no it wasn't, the house has a drop ceiling and it would have immediately showed
From where did you get that magical "12 inches from wall" requirement? And why did you have to adjust for the baseboard thickness?
i just removed my previous flange extender. thank goodness the person had not siliconed it into place like you. He used a an extender that looks like yours but has a soft rubber gasket on each piece. I had to hacksaw several rusted on screws; you don't show that "deconstruction" very painful step..
Good job...being a tile installer, I'd ask to repair the tile with the quarter sized chip...:)
Very helpful video, but why would only two bolts be enough to stabilize the closet flange push. Wouldnt using 4 bolts (2 long and 2 short) then stabilize the base better?
if you have a cracked pvc flange do you put the split ring repair and then the spacer on top?
ty for showing and sharing your knowledge and talent !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So with the spacer now glued in with silicone, how will you replace the bolts in the future?
Putty knife
So was your metal flange broken, and you put the spacer over top? My plastic flange is broken at the slot hole for the bolt. Can I place the spacer over top, since the spacer has the slot holes as well, or do I need to somehow replace the plastic flange that is broken at the bolt hole before using the spacer to get it to the proper height?
The new sub floor and tile will be lower than the present flange. How do I lower a PVC flange? Love your videos.
The toilet flange is supposed to stick out higher about 1/4 of an inch.
I'd use an internal pvc pipe cutter or chisel out the old flange. Then use an external pvc flange so that the next guy could use an internal one. There are videos here on removing an old PVC flange and it is not that bad. I just did this job on my first floor but was a rubber coupling between the pvc and an older cast iron pipe in the unfinished basement so I replaced the flange and the straight section to the coupler. I hope your job (and any reader's) is as easy as that was.
Nice video. Is it me or did he mark the bolt location at 11" instead of 12"? I thought the bolts were supposed to be centered around the hole at equal distances from the wall.
So the last one you did there will work with an old flange that bolts won't screw into then??
Ok today i installed 2 of thoese homedepot ruber things that have a wax ring attach to them. My flange is aboit 1/4 to 1/2 below my floor since they added lvp over tile. Id i wanna add 1/2 flundge spacers do i need to rwinstall a new wax ring under thoese rubber thingys?
Should you use water proof silicone or water proof construction adhesive? The silicone will not leak correct? Thank you!!
Thank you so much! Have had a problem with my toilet since I bought my house in 2009. Explains why I have leaks. Previous owner tiled floor and flange below floor uggg. The flange on floor is plastic not metal and not screwed down in concrete. Not sure if this is a problem or not? Going to buy extensions hope that will fix the problem?
It wont
Excellent well done video, Thank you!
It’s not a big deal if your flange sits below the flooring. You can buy an extended wax rings. That has 2/5 more wax than a standard wax ring.
Rule of thumb: if the flange sits at or above the flooring, standard wax ring.
If the flange is below the flooring, extended wax ring.
Agree
Which country do you live? It is not available at NZ at all, and I was checking CZ and seems they don't know it there either...
Just scroowing the toilet pan directly to the floor! :-( And once the screws snap... imagine the disaster to take them out?
I just took my first toilet out and the flange hovers about an inch off the subfloor, is this good/normal/bad? If I try to push it down, it goes, but then rebounds back to about 1 inch off the floor. I also can't remove it because it seems to be taking pipe with it.
Very informative!
The push tite works A1
Thanks for the video! 👍
what was the purpose of white silicon ? was it to create a water sealed connection to prevent leakage from in between the main flange and the flange extender ? what happens if we do not apply the silicon ?
I think your toilet is going to hit the wall, you said the mounting bolts needed to be 12" away from the wall, you didn't have 12". Did you find this to be true once you went to set the toilet in place?
The problem with using that oaty spacer is the gap is not a tight seal.If the plumbing stops up water is going to run between the sewer line and that spacer
I really do not trust the silicone to make the seal
He could have screwed it down into the sub floor to make a tight seal (with galvinized screws.
That spacer will leak every if there's a backup
I agree
I'd never done such plumbing job as this before I watched several videos including this to replace a broken toilet flange. Since new thicker tiles were laid on the wood substructure several years ago, there was leak due to broken flange. After watching this video,I went to home depot to buy a 4" flange and a 4" spacer. This combo seemed to fit but the spacer moves around on the flange pretty much and the gap between flange and spacer is not acceptable to me as a dental lab technician. So I bought a 1/4" extender and put it under the flange finishing the job. I feel now comfortable. The method on this video is another option though.
After going to college this helped me see the things I do
Hey! Redoing my bathroom and trying to decide whether or not I need to replace the flange or not. I know I’m going to need a spacer to raise it but how do you decide whether to use a push tite or not. Mine doesn’t have large channels in the original flange like yours does. Just a small slot for the bolt to go into. It would line up with the slots you used on the spacer. I hope this makes sense.
Also do I have to remove the whole old flange or can I add a push tite right on top?
Nice Job!!!! Ha!!
this is you not suppose to do I think he's trying to tell as what not to do
Thank you so much for posting
So my thought would be to pre drill the cast iron and screw down the flange? Is it not necessary
Did you find that the silicone alone was enough to properly secure the replacement ring to the flange? Worried about the ring coming up
It works very well but if you can screw the flange to the subfloor that’s preferable