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Rack and Pinion & Outer Tie Rods on a 2014 Chevy Impala
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
- Replacement of the rack & pinion and outer tie rods on a 2014 Chevy Impala 3.6L.
Rack & Pinion:
amzn.to/3MulXWk
Outer Tie Rods:
amzn.to/3W5gGYq
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I am a self taught mechanic of over 30 years in the field. Helping people save money and stay safe on the road is what I am here for. If I can pass that along in my videos, that would make me feel even more accomplished. I am rather old school and do not really do things by the book, for this reason, I do not claim to make "Instructional" videos. My videos are for entertainment purposes only. Please use safety and knowledge when doing your own repairs. ~ Ben - MegaMiles
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You're such a hard working and experienced technician.
Thank you, and thank you for watching!
What an amazing tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to do a perfect tutorial and all of the side notes.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I wanted to get an idea on what the mechanic will be doing to my car... sheeeesh hats off to you man. That isn't for the weak! I wouldnt dare try that...
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Damn! Tough job, I will definitely be busting out my checkbook for this one!
It can be a rougher job on your back too. I worked out of my home garage for about 10 years, Im so very thankful for the lift now.
Thanks for watching!
Great Video. You are a very skilled mechanic. I'm gathering rack and pinion + for my '08 Impala SS.
Thanks for watching!
Good Job. Subscribed.
Thanks for your support and watching!
This is the best video of replacing the rack on this model I've watched. Tough job you make look so easy good sir! 💯+
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. Thanks
Thank you for watching!
Thank you sir I really enjoyed this video I also learned a lot, thanks
Thank you for watching!
When you were "burping the system" at the end were you just running the engine?
I was under the impression you either needed to pull a vacuum to get the air out (prefered method) or run the steering wheel back and forth to the ends until you stop seeing bubbles. But letting the engine do it would be much easier seen as I don't have the vac equipment.
@mrbamfo5000 yes, I let the engine run and turn the wheels now and then. Ill go all the way to one side and leave it there for a few, go all the way to the other side and leave it for a few and then back to straight. Ill do that till I stop seeing bubbles. Ive been burping this way for as long as I can remember.
I am grateful you were working on a limited. I have to do this same job in the near future and seeing it done with the 3.6 instead of the 3.5 or 3.9 is really helpful. just a question. Since I'm replacing the pump and lines anyway, would it be easier to disconnect the pressure line at the pump to get it out?
Itd probably save you a little struggle.
@@MegaMilesBen it saved me the hose nut struggle but then I had to finesse it back in to not kink the new ones.
So the service notes say to use a specific GM tool to lock the steering shaft at TDC before starting this removal. I assume that is because these newer cars have electronics that sense steering wheel input. Torque angle sensors that have to be calibrated like in the Malibu's. Otherwise how would you ever get your seat belt alignment to match the computer? Yes you can recalibrate but if you never locked your column to true center...
Actually, the only reason Ive ever known to lock the steering wheel is so you dont rotate it and break the clock spring. It also helps with realigning the steering shaft.
By book has a lot of special tools for pretty much every job. I use maybe 5% of special tools out there. A lot arnt really needed as long as youre careful and use common sense.
Man, was copying your work, everything was going good until trying to reconnect the steering, it will just not even move downward on the shaft at all. 3 hrs of pushing prying, maybe a little crying, still no luck. I see flat spots and the intention where the bolt would go across the shaft if it ever went down that far, trying to make sure that is line up, but nothing, tried jiggling the wheel, tapping, bought everything I could think of. I feel like it just does not slide towards the rack and pinion, came off smooth as silk. Not sure what to even try.
Try measuring the old rack on each side with the inner tie rods and make sure the measurements are the same on each side of the new rack. Sometimes the new rack shifts a little durring shipping or is aligned a little different from factory.
You need to make sure the output shaft from the rack is lined up with the steering column basically perfectly or it wont slip in.
Hope this makes sense. Kinda hard to explain in a message.
Great video man. Where did you get the o rings for the hoses did you buy new ones?
I keep an abundance of oring sets at my shop. Youll want to get them though, theyre rather important. Itd suck to do all that and end up leaking from one of the lines. Some new racks will come with them but not all racks include them.
@@MegaMilesBen I can’t find them online separately I got a Detroit axle one I hope it’s alright so you know the size?
@@codygoldade3984 not off the top of my head, no. DetroitAxles racks are good, I recommend them a lot. They usually come with new orings for the lines.
@@MegaMilesBen it was the cheapest I could find. Most mechanics near me don’t let you bring your own parts though and they want these $400 racks and double other parts it’s like man cmon and they say the parts up charge keeps the lights on 🤦♂️ nah I think you just are giving more $ to NAPA and whoever else who already upcharges
@@MegaMilesBen thanks for the info man and great video
Are inner tie rods replaceable without replacing the rack and pinion?
Yes, I do them very often. Youll take off the outer, then the nut and then the boot. Thatll give you access to the inner. I have a video that will show you how to use the tool for it, Ill go find it and post it in a minute for you.
th-cam.com/video/iktZ0ffWsN4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=XiPRiM95PPpQOsSj
Hey thanks for answering today! Yeah I'm getting clicking noises when shaking the steering wheel back and forth slightly while stationary (car off), I can feel the clicking on the tie rods when my buddy was shaking the wheel for me. Seems to be inner ones unless it's something inside the gear assembly. I removed the outer tie rods from the knuckle and they both lean/fall down by gravity, meaning the inner tie rod ball joints seem worn. I'm thinking maybe the steering column is loose.
There also seems to be a grinding noise when turning the wheel, vehicle powered off. I notice it when turning wheels for caliper removal accessibility. Wondering if it's the hydraulic piston scraping or if it's the rack and pinion gear. Would there be a way to change or add lubricant to the rack and pinion assembly itself, where pinion touches the rack?
@@MegaMilesBen
@SomeoneIsAlwaysMovingOnTheSurf sounds like you might need a new rack and pinion. Check out detroitaxle.com.
Rather hard to diagnose that here on youtube, sorry.
If you don't have a new tie rod ends don't grind it off. They hv forks for it. Or tie rod removal tool.
Yea, if youre saving the outers, then youd want to find a way to split them apart or just replace them.
These where stuck and replacements were already on hand.
@@MegaMilesBen When having a mechanic do it, It's often cheaper to just cut them off and put new parts on than pay the labor to save an old used part.
@imknot it could be depending where youre getting the parts. We were replacing them anyway so I didnt even feel like dealing with them.
Any time I do a rack and pinion, I recommend the outer tie rods with it as optional. Most people will go ahead and do them unless theyre relatively new.
If theyre rusty and stuck to the point you even have to think of cutting them off, then I would totally just replace them.