Alcoves Installation from start to finish with lighting and oak log storage features.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มี.ค. 2020
- A particularly special Alcove project - it turned out great but you may not have guessed the challenges along the way!
From 11:08 you can see a page from our 6-page set of alcove cabinetry blueprints. This documents contains all our recommendations for how to manufacture alcove cupboards, bookcases and floating shelves, with formulas for sizing of parts relative to the measured maximum width of the alcove. It is a very useful reference for both professional woodworkers and DIYers, and is made available as a reward to anyone signing up as a monthly supporter of the channel by becoming a member at www.buymeacoffee.com/freebird
Members gain access to extra content every month. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Wow. Outstanding video with so much simple clarity and explanation of your techniques. Thanks so much for sharing your expertise. The finished job really does look amazing. I love the oak box detail and the integrated lighting. Great stuff! 👍
Great video and the units look very well
Great videos.....nice to to see honest mistakes that have happened on these jobs, but you have gone back to rectify. Hope you and your colleagues have a good year...keep safe 👍
Love it, can’t add anymore than what’s been already said 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I have learned so much following your vlogs, please keep it up
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Mark Louth I’m glad you’ve benefited from it all, I appreciate you letting me know, I will carry on!
This may be one of your best videos yet explaining details of the install and how to deal with problem solving. Well done Alastair! A big thank you from all of us that are fitters.
john gibson thank you John I’m glad you think so!
Another great video Alistair thanks! We do lots of things in our installs in a very similar way and have some of the same issues and some things we do slightly differently to you. We should compare notes sometime we could maybe both learn something! We use the identical lighting system to you even down to the aluminium profile, the only thing is we always drill and screw the profile on, we'd never thought of sticking it on. Suppose it would work well with a good tape but it's exactly the kind of thing you don't want to go back to! Another completely honest video of the average process of a fitted furniture install with all the usual issues and clangers left in! 😊 Thanks again 👍
Thanks Alastair! Learned a great deal in this one and I really appreciate your honesty. It helps me cope with all my woes.
What’s up Michael, what’s been happening?
I love the honesty. We all know “s**t happens” but most people pretend otherwise.
true!
Top job from top pros, excellent finishing skills👍 really enjoy the channel
Thanks!
Quality video mate!
Loved working on this with you
Josh Marlow same! 👍👍👍
Great video. Best one yet keep it up 👍
John Jones thanks John I’m glad you think so!
You can get the plasterboard boxes for thicker material if you should need them. And as mentioned earlier learn safe isolation before you dive in with the electrics, could be something naughty waiting to give you a belt.
Great video. I started learning SketchUp last month for a completely unrelated reason (planning house layout) and had the random idea of building some alcove cupboards last week. Then I found your channel! Seems like it was meant to be.
Yeah I think my channel ticks those boxes pretty well! I give away plans as part of membership here and you will find it more than worth the basic tier monthly fee - you can cancel any time www.buymeacoffee.com/freebird
Great video, thanks
You're welcome, I appreciate you commenting
And yes good video 👍
The tesa tape. Is glazing tape. And the wago connection blocks are a godsend.
Mike I have you to thank for the wago blocks!! I hadn’t heard of them until you mentioned them to me on Instagram. Thankyou 👍
Ca glue works great on the profiles
Basically superglue right? For the lighting strips? I suppose I avoid this because any small mistake would be impossible to clean up!
Thanks for this info, I really like it this is a project the the wife wants.. but I didn't know what those orange spacers were and how to use them...and a part number.
Darren in Dallas TX
What a video👌🏻
Thankyou, are you planning a similar project?
@@Alastair_Freebird I am indeed mate
HI
I like your work , tips & tricks you are showing and all your videos.
Have you considered countersinking and screwing down aluminium instead if using double-sided tape?
Hi yes, as I remember it I ended up returning to this job to do exactly that!
👍
Alistair. If fitting against an external wall (or walls) how do you deal with potential damp issues (especially alcove wardrobes)
My only criticism would be the way you chain drill the wiring runs. I'd router out a nice channel and it would probably be quicker and certainly look neater albeit I know you don't see it. With the LED strip I often countersink the channel use a tiny countersunk screw, or use the knock in Hafele stuff which needs banged into a tight cut rebate with a mallet.
Do you mean a channel on the outside of the sides, for wires? Regarding the Knock in LED strips, it’s just that I don’t like how shadow lines are created from the lights being recessed, I like the domed diffuser
@@Alastair_Freebird Yea just a little channel more or less freehand routed into the MDF. The knock in channel we spec is only 7mm deep and the knock in diffuser ends up edge to edge on the material, I understand your point but I have not yet witnessed any light cutoff with it and I know what you mean, sometimes a sharp light cutoff can be a nice effect, sometimes you want nothing. The profile is called slim8. Not trying to be critical for the sake of criticism, genuinely just trying to help improve your excellent product.
It’s ok I welcome feedback. Where do you buy your Led lights and channels?
@@Alastair_Freebird Hi Alastair, Topmet. LED strip is usually 24V Holectron which is a really good product, probably have about 800m of that stuff in use including 1 install that had 305m of it! It's a top class product and very well made.
Wow. What are the benefits of using 24v instead of the 12v I use?
This is absolutely amazing! Great job. How much would something like this cost?
Brett Critchley thanks! Find it at the bottom of this pricing page from our new website. freebird.copilottestserver.co.uk/pricing/. (The website is not yet live but this is a direct link. May expire soon)
Great job, congratulations. A little question, what is the name of the small orange supports that you use? Thank you!
Carlos Delfin thanks, and they are space plugs space-plug.com/
Great job, everyday a school day. Picked up some nice tips watching this!
Q. For the shelves, what way did u fix the front nosing to the shelf. Is it mitre folded or just butt jointed with some sort of domino. If butt jointed would paint crack along joint over time do u think?
Hi Gary the lips are dominoed, glued and clamped then sanded smooth. We have found in the last that it is hard to avoid some ‘telegraphing’ of a tiny level difference between edge and face on that front top surface even after repeated sanding and denibbing between coats but this has been much reduced since using the Finsa Fibrapan Hidrofugo mdf and we have never had a problem of actual cracking
@@Alastair_Freebird Thanks Alastair, appreciate the reply. Got about 3 hrs kip last night watching these. Am a general carpenter but often get asked to do these types of jobs and am not really geared up for it but would like to start doing some.
Think maybe leaving client with a primed finish ready for handpainting may be my best option. Prefinishing and fitting of same is a treacherous business!!!!
Keep up the great work
i agree start offering a primed finish. Full finishing is a headache! Work up to that if it one day seems worthwhile.
Brilliant, im not so bright I'm afraid,but lost how you connect the strip light up shelf to shelf,is it 1 continuous piece,with the excessive bits between the shelves and the wall,if so even though that bit hidden ,does it still light up,hope I make sense
Hi I don’t remember how I got it here, I know there was a time when I hid the connections in the gap either side of the bookcase (so the light strip went a little bit beyond) but I soon regretted this. So more recently I make sure the connections are just inside the unit where they could be accessed if necessary, but covered by the frosted plastic profile over the aluminium strip. Losing an inch or 2 of LED diodes near the edges is actually better - you get a more even glow of light instead of bright spots at the sides.
nice job!!!, at 10.20 when you did the electrics did you sought after a electrician to look over it etc? .thanks in advance
Christopher Claudio Skierka I rang one to check things but after this I decided not to do my own electrics anymore but to get an electrician to prepare and check it all.
@@Alastair_Freebird I can understand why you would want to do it yourself... being helpful etc to the client, but one can be over helpful, if something goes wrong they will forget your efforts, efficiently etc. Best be on the safe side with stuff like that
Hi Alistair, do you generally buy laminated oak panel or buy planks and make the sheets yourself for the log stores?
I buy pre edge laminated solid oak sheets from Optimum Timber Supplies in Mexborough
👍 do you know if you coil the LED driver cable, could it increase the chance of the cable overheating?
Hi Adrian, maybe a little, if you’re talking about the power cable into the driver, but I’m no expert in that
The thicker tape is much better but in the past I find a double layer of the thinner tape will get the job done
lockystocky1 is that because it gives just a little bit of extra sponginess to press tight into the surfaces?
Freebird Interiors - yes thicker tape every time, I don’t even attempt to use the supplied thin self adhesive tape that comes with strip lighting, too many failures in the past. Double layers will get you out of a hole but I’d avoid it if possible.
Hi Alister, just wondering if you make your own cornice moulding for the top of your book shelves? cheers
Hello, no we either use an Ogee Architrave with an added backer piece, or buy a proper cornice from WRP mouldings
Hey there, what size lip do you add on the shelve to block the LEDs from the front/bottom angle? looks like 20mm or so? Can it be less? thanks.
Hi I found it ought to be about 44mm minimum to shield the light source from view on the upper shelves. That’s the total front height of the shelf and lip, on an 18mm shelf thickness
Hi, you use birch ply for your carcasses, is it pre-finished or do you apply finish yourself or do you leave it for the customers painter to do?
Hardy Station it is not prefinished. Years back we established a standard pricing with internals unfinished after getting a lot of feedback that customers didn’t feel painted internals were important enough to pay extra for. We settled on birch ply as the best material in terms of screw holding power and appearance. I must say that on a job like this it does seem wrong not to fully finish everything however the customer chose not to, and it is one of those areas where they have a bit of control over the budget, to bring it down a bit to keep the important things closer to their desired budget.
Freebird Interiors thanks for that, I only ask as I have that dilemma myself and kind of feel like the insides are awkward and fiddley to paint whether you do it before the sheets are cut or after the boxes are made and I feel like I can’t ask for the price I really need to do it
Hardy Station exactly! It’s a lot of extra work and it needs to be priced for.
I use a 4” x 6” cheap painters pad and pour Minwax polycrylic on the top and spread it with the pad prior to cutting the sheet down. 30 minutes later I denub and repeat with a second coat and done. Smooth and protected with very little time and effort.
john gibson good tip John thanks
What sheet material do you use for carcases and shelves?
Finsa Fibrapan Hidrofugo MDF for painted parts. We used to use birch plywood for internal carcases. Now we use Melamine faced MDF, also from finsa. - an oak effect called 'Roble Hera'
How much would something like this cost? Looking to get something like done?
In the region of £5k now I’d say
Hi. Where do you get your 56mm cover strip from ? I cant find them anywhere
It's all made by us - ripped down on the panelsaw
Hi, how do you determine how much space to leave around the sides of the main unit? If the answer is in the blueprints, please say and I will happily grab a copy :)
Jamie Rutherford yes it’s all shown there! But in summary I allow 36mm. The logic is that’s usually more than enough to clear the skirting to avoid shaving to remove it; and being 2x18mm it allows easy packing/cover strip options. I’m sure you’ll like the blueprints plus LOADS of other member only content here and if not you can always grab it all and cancel if you must and you’ve only lost £5 😉 www.buymeacoffee.com/freebird
@@Alastair_Freebird Thanks, have signed up and looking forward to it all. Was also thinking, why the 100mm clearance height underneath?
We use 100mm black feet, a standard available size but not as tall as the typical 150mm used for kitchens. Any shorter than 100mm and it’s a bit tight getting your arm in to adjust the rear feet! Thanks for signing up 👍
Freebird Interiors haha ok, yes a very practical reason which I hasn’t thought about. Definitely the kind of thing you’d find out too late and end up banging your head about! Cheers.
Don't fanny about with a hack saw to trim the legs. Set up a stop on your chop saw and save yourself 1/2 an hour... Nice end result but overly complicated build.... think Occum's razor
Thank you, always room for improvement!
What do you do in terms of electrical competency/testing/insurance?
Chris B I make sure I reconnect everything exactly as I found it, and ring my electrician friend if in doubt. What do you advise, am I sailing close to the wind?
Freebird Interiors I’m in a similar boat, I’ve recently started a plumbing/heating business. I’m not doubting your abilities, but if anything ever were to go wrong. Someone got electrocuted or there was a fire you’d likely find yourself in front of a judge being asked to prove you were competent to complete electrical work.
Yes it’s a fair point Chris, I always used to get an electrician in for everything but grew in confidence watching him fit sockets that I may as well just do that myself but I probably am overstepping a little.
i never trusted in double tape to glue leds acessory. I use a small screw before i glue de led . 12x 1.5 mm.
Do you find it tricky to drill the aluminium channel just right so the screw head doesn’t go through?
@@Alastair_Freebird i do a small countersink for the screw head that alows the led glue evenly without noticed the screw head. Remember its a verry small screw used por that propose. The aluminium chanel i use has about 1mm thikness.
Hi,
Is it all MDF built?
Yes apart from the visible oak.
What is the usual height for alcove units?
We settled on 70cm as the most common standard. Upper bookcase is often around 150cm on top of that
Please where did you get the strip lighting from ?!
Hafele, the Loox 12v range. But I don’t use them anymore. Too many supply issues. I now buy Leyton lighting via www.light-solutions.co.uk/
Thanks for replying . I'm going to give this project a go and just moving up to the wall cabinets . Would you mind sending an idiots shopping list to replicate what you've done here ?? Would help so much ... but I mean a real idiots guide 🙄
@@Billa1233 well… there is a lot involved getting the right finish etc. It would be hard for me to summarise everything here without it all prompting more questions. I created the membership area for this sort of extra detail. There is no tie in, so currently you can get the back catalogue of pdfs, videos and blog post style advice related to alcove units and more for £7 and run off with it if you want to, though I do find most people stay subscribed for ongoing content. www.buymeacoffee.com/freebird
Or to research more for free look at this video with similar base cabinets th-cam.com/video/Oy7dH-Z9MqI/w-d-xo.html
Sorry I’ve just realised your specifically mean the lighting components. Just drop an email to that supplier with what you want to achieve - even link to parts of this video if your want - and give them shelf widths. They will advise and supply it all cut to lengths with the relevant connectors, driver, switch and power cable
Just saying heat from the stove would not do that to the tape. It's either bad contact/bad tape/ or the led strips where to tight as you said
snwman 86 yeah a bit of a combination I think but the hafele tape definitely didn’t have the strong grab of the Tesa
As an Electrician may I ask if you carried out safe isolation before working on the electrics by checking with an approved voltage tester?
The aluminium profile dissipates the heat from the LED strip which is probably what softened the glue on the original tape. Any profile I fit is drilled, countersunk and screwed on to avoid issues like this
Nice videos though and I do enjoy the woodworking side as my Dad was a Cabinet Maker/Joiner
kevy427 hi Kevy I have an electrician friend who I ring and send photos to if I ever think I’m overstepping my knowledge, and I turned off the sockets circuit and checked they were off by plugging in a radio - is this not an acceptable way of doing it?
@@Alastair_Freebird It's one way of checking but not the right way. Have a read of this article: www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk/media/1201/best-practice-guide-2-issue-3.pdf
Page 13 has the proving dead procedure
There's quite a big push in the electrical industry at the moment to ensure people are working safely and come home at the end of the day
Invest in a voltage proving indicator. Test it works on a known supply. Isolate circuit and lock off. Test between E-L, E-N, N-L then test the proving indicator works on a known source to avoid any false positives. Always put the first probe on the least dangerous terminal first and remove it last
Thank you, I’m printing that for a thorough read later
I don't know if something like the high bond tape we use for POS/Signage might be better than that foam tape, might be worth some experimenting with some offcuts 🤔 ~ www.essentracomponents.com/en-gb/p/high-bond-tape-rolls
I will say, you should be able to get it cheaper than Essentra's ~£20 a roll, but then I don't know what you pay for your existing tape
Really good but far too overcomplicated and too long drawn out for a set of shelves and drawers with lights
I am wondering if you mean the whole approach to building it was too complicated, or just that the video suffered for going into too much detail?