I bought a Vorteks recently and have taken the thing apart several times for upgrades. This is such an excellent tutorial. I really appreciate that you took the time to put this information out there.
No problem. Glad it helps. That’s what it’s about. Not trying to be a TH-cam sensation, just want to help people enjoy the hobby. Vorteks is a great car, little more versatile than the typhon and easier to do tricks. Made a good choice in picking that up.
Awesome video. Have 2 typhons and a vortex in line on the bench. Doing all diffs and shocks for the first time. Wish I watched this 2 weeks ago. Just finished the vortex and removed the whole front and rear to get the diff out. Oh well. Will make the typhons easier. Thanks for making such a great video!
I want to chime in again. Im not surprised that chassis broke in half, driving it in the winter. The cold and plastic hate each other lol. If ya drive in the cold, shit WILL break. I learned that the hard way about 10 years ago, when I was driving my old XXT in the winter. I was just going down the sidewalk and not even fast, and an a-arm broke. It broke so damn easy, it was ridiculous. NEVER bash in the winter.
Yep, cold and plastics don’t mix that’s for sure. I bash a lot in the winter on days like that one when temps are in the 40s and 50s which isn’t too bad and the snow provides some nice cushion for landings. Temps below that and you are just asking for things to break no doubt. That being said, anytime you drop a car on its tail from about 15 to 20 feet up or more….bad things will happen no matter the temp. This one just gets chalked up to one terrible landing and poor Air control, and that’s on me. Big air wouldn’t be fun if there were no risks though.
Great video! VERY informative! You're a great teacher-instructor. Many others rush to make how-to videos with NO idea of how to teach. I've subscribed just off the strength of this video. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words. Hope the content helps. Not in the business of trying to be a TH-cam sensation, just trying to help folks enjoy the hobby more. 👍
I didnt realize how damn easy this is to work on. I just got mine delivered the other day, and this video will certainly give me all the confidence I need. Great video. Thanks, man.
These cars are pretty slick for maintenance and parts are pretty reasonably priced and available. Great cars for any level of hobbyist. Think you’ll really enjoy it.
@@milehighspeedrc8412 I installed the EC5s onto my battery and gave it a blast. Fastest RC I've ever driven. My 6500mah 120c pack lasted about 5 mins, but that's without charging first. Think that's normal for an uncharged new battery, as far as run time? Maybe a fully charged battery will last longer. Hope so.
@@bra1nc417d depends on driving conditions and gearing and such but that doesn’t seem crazy and wouldn’t worry even if on the surface it seems a smidge short on run time. Pack if it was new and you didn’t charge should have been sitting about middle voltage and I’d expect maybe a smidge more but I wouldn’t worry too much. Charge it up to full and you should be getting about 15 minutes plus from a pack like that. Again; how you drive, what you drive on, gearing etc…all play their part but average for a 3s lipo in a car like this should be roughly 15 minutes.
@@milehighspeedrc8412 Good to know, man. honestly, 15 minutes is plenty of time, anyway. Sure beats the old shit, with 5 mins being considered good lol. RC has come a long way.
I just got my first car, a Typhon and after first use (didn't even kill the battery), I am getting a loud clicking noise as if a gear or something similar is not meshing as it should and it started whining a bit just prior. Don't know why it happened, but it is and it was during second use this happened. Besides for noise, it still works but I won't run it. I have no idea what it is but waht was looking for a great video to be able to tear car apart and yet be able to get it back together.Your video and explanation is fantastic for tear down and getting it back together. Thank you.
Appreciated. I hope you can solve the concern on ur vehicle. Obviously a new car shouldn’t be giving you such issues. With these cars and the power they have it is best to try and identify and fix and not just “power through”. To identify just strategically remove parts along the drive train till you find it. For example, remove the center shaft and test. That will tell you if its front or back. Then you can remove axels and determine if its in the gear box or out near wheels. remove left vs right components etc… and eventually you’ll track it down. If you hit any snags be happy to help, just drop a line.
This is an awesome tutorial. Im getting back into RC and have made the decision to make the Typhon S3 the car to make my comeback. Love that you made timestamps...thank you 🙌🏽
Don’t disagree. Been through a few drive train components with this one, but my Kraton EXB just keeps humming with no problems. Although, have to recognize, huge step up in car level (and price) between typhons and Kraton/Talions.
That there is a Home Depot special if you live in the United States. It’s a ryobi compact lithium ion driver. 4v. Perfect for these cars as it’s light weight and Not near as much power as say a makita drill. So less chance of shredding these small screws.
I use M.I.P. Brand bits. If in the USA you can find at local hobby shops, on eBay, Amazon or directly from their website. They are “premium” which I recommend as I’ve rounded a bunch of non premium hex bit sets. For RC cars you’ll want 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm. After that, you can get away with less premium brands as the size gets big enough to have embedded strength. Lowes also includes these size hex bits in a driver collection of its kobalt brand and those have also been fine for me but are very short in length.
@@milehighspeedrc8412 Thank you..i have a set of hex ones..not MIP..but i didnt know i could take them off the handle..so now i bought a second set.. But ill def look for MIP brand..THANKS
my friend took my senton apart removing motor and rear diff and ive now got to put it back together and ive got a rubber ring that i dont know where it goes
Not many rubber gaskets on these cars, as rubber gaskets are good for only sealing things up. So, probably came out of the differential thats full of fluid. Been a long while since i worked on a blx diff but seems like there is a large gasket that rings the differential housing that seals when you put the two sides of the diff together. If its roughly matches the size of the diff housing thats probably your spot. Otherwise, if it’s smaller it is likely the ones that seal where the diff cups poke through the diff housing.
Thanks for sharing these tips, it made our project upgrade a lot easier.
I bought a Vorteks recently and have taken the thing apart several times for upgrades. This is such an excellent tutorial. I really appreciate that you took the time to put this information out there.
No problem. Glad it helps. That’s what it’s about. Not trying to be a TH-cam sensation, just want to help people enjoy the hobby. Vorteks is a great car, little more versatile than the typhon and easier to do tricks. Made a good choice in picking that up.
Awesome video. Have 2 typhons and a vortex in line on the bench. Doing all diffs and shocks for the first time. Wish I watched this 2 weeks ago. Just finished the vortex and removed the whole front and rear to get the diff out. Oh well. Will make the typhons easier. Thanks for making such a great video!
Glad it was helpful. Happy RC-ing
I want to chime in again. Im not surprised that chassis broke in half, driving it in the winter. The cold and plastic hate each other lol. If ya drive in the cold, shit WILL break. I learned that the hard way about 10 years ago, when I was driving my old XXT in the winter. I was just going down the sidewalk and not even fast, and an a-arm broke. It broke so damn easy, it was ridiculous. NEVER bash in the winter.
Yep, cold and plastics don’t mix that’s for sure. I bash a lot in the winter on days like that one when temps are in the 40s and 50s which isn’t too bad and the snow provides some nice cushion for landings. Temps below that and you are just asking for things to break no doubt. That being said, anytime you drop a car on its tail from about 15 to 20 feet up or more….bad things will happen no matter the temp. This one just gets chalked up to one terrible landing and poor Air control, and that’s on me. Big air wouldn’t be fun if there were no risks though.
Great video! VERY informative! You're a great teacher-instructor. Many others rush to make how-to videos with NO idea of how to teach. I've subscribed just off the strength of this video. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words. Hope the content helps. Not in the business of trying to be a TH-cam sensation, just trying to help folks enjoy the hobby more. 👍
Appreciate your video man. Helped me a lot with this second hand Typhon we got off marketplace
Glad it was helpful
I didnt realize how damn easy this is to work on. I just got mine delivered the other day, and this video will certainly give me all the confidence I need. Great video. Thanks, man.
These cars are pretty slick for maintenance and parts are pretty reasonably priced and available. Great cars for any level of hobbyist. Think you’ll really enjoy it.
@@milehighspeedrc8412 I installed the EC5s onto my battery and gave it a blast. Fastest RC I've ever driven. My 6500mah 120c pack lasted about 5 mins, but that's without charging first. Think that's normal for an uncharged new battery, as far as run time? Maybe a fully charged battery will last longer. Hope so.
@@bra1nc417d depends on driving conditions and gearing and such but that doesn’t seem crazy and wouldn’t worry even if on the surface it seems a smidge short on run time. Pack if it was new and you didn’t charge should have been sitting about middle voltage and I’d expect maybe a smidge more but I wouldn’t worry too much. Charge it up to full and you should be getting about 15 minutes plus from a pack like that. Again; how you drive, what you drive on, gearing etc…all play their part but average for a 3s lipo in a car like this should be roughly 15 minutes.
@@milehighspeedrc8412 Good to know, man. honestly, 15 minutes is plenty of time, anyway. Sure beats the old shit, with 5 mins being considered good lol. RC has come a long way.
I just got my first car, a Typhon and after first use (didn't even kill the battery), I am getting a loud clicking noise as if a gear or something similar is not meshing as it should and it started whining a bit just prior. Don't know why it happened, but it is and it was during second use this happened. Besides for noise, it still works but I won't run it. I have no idea what it is but waht was looking for a great video to be able to tear car apart and yet be able to get it back together.Your video and explanation is fantastic for tear down and getting it back together. Thank you.
Appreciated. I hope you can solve the concern on ur vehicle. Obviously a new car shouldn’t be giving you such issues. With these cars and the power they have it is best to try and identify and fix and not just “power through”. To identify just strategically remove parts along the drive train till you find it. For example, remove the center shaft and test. That will tell you if its front or back. Then you can remove axels and determine if its in the gear box or out near wheels. remove left vs right components etc… and eventually you’ll track it down. If you hit any snags be happy to help, just drop a line.
Thank you so much for this video, the best video ive seen on working with this car.
Glad you liked it!
This is an awesome tutorial. Im getting back into RC and have made the decision to make the Typhon S3 the car to make my comeback. Love that you made timestamps...thank you 🙌🏽
Love the car, hate the drivetrain.Crappy pot metal parts….. plastic gears…. bought the Talion. Still running original pinion and spur gears.
Don’t disagree. Been through a few drive train components with this one, but my Kraton EXB just keeps humming with no problems. Although, have to recognize, huge step up in car level (and price) between typhons and Kraton/Talions.
Great video, thank you! The paint can opener is a great idea.
Just the video I was looking for thank you for sharing :)
Glad I could help!
Great vid. Love the 3s lineup. Have all except the Big Rock.
thanks a lot! That Video is gold for me!
Glad it helped!
You’ll get good at replacing the slipper.
Thank you
You're welcome
Thank you!
Awesome 👌 vid!
Damn good video 🐧
How do I get the red thing of next to the engine???
Do you mean the red center chassis brace and stop? Check out video at 5:50 mark.
@@milehighspeedrc8412 I sprayed some brake cleaner to get rid of the dust. Thx dude.
What drill is that you are using???
That there is a Home Depot special if you live in the United States. It’s a ryobi compact lithium ion driver. 4v. Perfect for these cars as it’s light weight and Not near as much power as say a makita drill. So less chance of shredding these small screws.
Nice video...TY.
BTW where did you get the drill hex bits at?
I use M.I.P. Brand bits. If in the USA you can find at local hobby shops, on eBay, Amazon or directly from their website. They are “premium” which I recommend as I’ve rounded a bunch of non premium hex bit sets. For RC cars you’ll want 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm. After that, you can get away with less premium brands as the size gets big enough to have embedded strength. Lowes also includes these size hex bits in a driver collection of its kobalt brand and those have also been fine for me but are very short in length.
@@milehighspeedrc8412 Thank you..i have a set of hex ones..not MIP..but i didnt know i could take them off the handle..so now i bought a second set..
But ill def look for MIP brand..THANKS
I liked the video so much I gave you a shout out on my channel
Thanks, appreciate that👍
my friend took my senton apart removing motor and rear diff and ive now got to put it back together and ive got a rubber ring that i dont know where it goes
Not many rubber gaskets on these cars, as rubber gaskets are good for only sealing things up. So, probably came out of the differential thats full of fluid. Been a long while since i worked on a blx diff but seems like there is a large gasket that rings the differential housing that seals when you put the two sides of the diff together. If its roughly matches the size of the diff housing thats probably your spot. Otherwise, if it’s smaller it is likely the ones that seal where the diff cups poke through the diff housing.