Thank you for the detailed explanation. After many months I finally want to do the modification but needed to know exactly where the problem lies. You showed it very clearly.
I'll be doing a similar mod to mine. I'm going to drill a 12mm hole in the back and re-use the rubber grommet from the bed. That will allow me to keep the original steel side plate.
Just wanted to say I watched your video before getting my printer and was going to do this mod but it appears they have chnaged the design og the wiring to the bed. The hole into the chassis is long now and thw wires go to the middle of the bed so don't get stretched right to the back. And with the hole being a long slot now it allows the wires to move forward and backwards in/out of the chassis without being dragged in and out through a small round hole.
Thank you for the ideas in fixing the heat bed wires. My display started acting funny showing 999 degree readings and found that the thermister wires have rubbed themselves to exposure. Have some braid that should be perfect that I use in building race quads and good 12 gauge pure copper silicon wires. I love this little Monoprice Mini V2. I cant believe how easy and fun it is to design and make stuff even though it does require some mods to keep it running. Subscribed for future videos, thanks again!
Mine is doing the same thing and acting like it's shorting out. Then it goes back to home screen in frozen. I'll take it apart tomorrow. Were your wires frayed?
Nice modification especially when you can print the parts required. An idea for a print video - a dipole center with a SO239 mount hole and strain relief holes for the radiators.
Thanks for the video, me and a friend have thought about buying a 3D Printer and the Select mini v2 looks tempting, if we buy one i will definitly do this mod as soon a possible
Hi Kevin, is there any chance of getting your coil former file so we can sort of follow along with your work. Aside from that it looks like a useful former. Great series thank you ZL1NAY
Thanks for the info. It may help with some of us who do long print runs make it to the end without a failure. A new subscriber here and fellow ham since 1968. AA9VE 73's
i know this wouldn't be electrically insulated and thus probbably not meet some mandated regulations, but from an engineering perspective, if you ran a insulated material along the underside of the bed and put 4 copper strips ( 2 for the bed, 2 for the thermister) and installed contact brushes coming up from the housing of the control board, would that hold up over time?
A lot of current would mean eventual arcing and sparking. I thought about using the linear bearings as moving contacts also. But, same problem, plus you'd eventually pit the bearings and make them bind.
I did your mod but could you add the detail of gromit sizes to get so I can save some time futzing at the hardware store? If you don't remember no worries...I'll just take the printed cable holder and test what they have against it.
Recently purchased this 3D printer in Nov 2018 and having seen your video, decided I should do this Mod. However when examining the bed wiring, I see they have changed the cable layout, which now runs through a slot in the base in a protected sheath and hopefully appears to resolve this flaw. Good on them for listening and resolving this problem. G4PEY
Same timeframe. Same "fixed" model. Unfortunately, it is no better in my opinion. You have the same stiff wire that has to flex. The new slot fixes the bounce-back observed in Kevin's video when moving backwards, but replaces it with resistance moving forwards. In fact, multiple unpowered tests with my bed shows that the wire is actually colliding and forcibly pushing itself around, and past, the tension pully under the bed. Sometimes it will rise above the pulley entirely, but more often than not it does not. Needless to say, having wire colliding with and pushing past a moving pulley is probably as bad, or worse, than the original design over time.
@@loughkb they still fail, all they did is move the failure point to where the wires flex where they are zip-tied to the frame inside. The cheap wire breaks inside the insulation, and it doesn't take long. My thermister wire failed first, so I replaced all the wiring with good silicone insulation "RC model" wiring and re-routed like yours. Works great, but of course isn't reversible to send it in for any other warranty work.
Sorry to post on an old video. Did you ever had issues with the controller freaking out mid print? Mine started doing that after almost 4 years of reliable printing. Its printing, and all of the suddent the menus go back to home. Movement continues, it might layer shift, but it does continue printing, however heaters turn off, so you can imagine how messy that is. Just wanted to ask if that was a thing you might have dealt with.
@@loughkb Yup. Fresh card worked fine. Wow...so freaking weird. The file read just fine on the computer. CRC looked ok too. I guess reads might have been inconsistent while on the printer. Thank you so much.
@@vmr5469 Flash memory has a limited number of writes before cells start to fail and bits stick. The old CF cards seemed to be more rubust. MicroSD cards don't last as long for some reason. I've had a few fail over recent years.
QUICK question! I haven't had my Monoprice mini for long, and after about 5 prints it started to just shut off in the middle of prints. Do you think that re-seating and / or re-routing my hotbed wires might solve this issue?
Shut off as in the display goes dark, fans stop, just like if you turned off the power switch? That *could* be the wires shorting. A short will shutdown a switching power supply, like what is used to power this printer. AS you saw in my vid, those wires had cracked through the insulation after a week and just a few prints. Si I suppose it's possible they shorted at that point on yours. Regardless, this mod is necessary on all of these select mini's, as long as they ship them with the wires zip tied at that point.
Thanks Kevin. And yes, midprint its like the printer will shut off. I thought maybe it was pulling too much power in the room I had it plugged into (old house), but it did the same plugged into a kitchen outlet (with more modern wiring). I have yet to get a look at the wires (if the insulation got stripped), but, as you said, your mod is necessary no matter so it wouldn't hurt to just do it and see. If it stops my issue I could always THEN print the side panels.
Are you printing using its original microsd card? I know they're prone to corrupt the gcode files, which causes the printer to reboot midprint. Happened to me once.
Kevin could you please share the size of the terminal pins that are needed for this. All my wires are frayed at the terminals so I need to replace the wires completely and trying to remove the wires from the pins (not the clip harness) is impossible. Thanks in advance
Thanks for the video Kevin! My little printer delivered last night! I'll print the strain relief parts and install this mod right away! Are you putting your files up on Thingiverse? I'm really surprised this is a known issue and it wasn't fixed in V.2 of this machine.
There is a link in the video description that will get you the three files needed for this mod. I do intend to ask the monoprice rep about this when I go to the midwest reprap festival next month.
Thank you so much. My new MonoPrice printer will arrive next week. I, too, figured that for this price I'd have to mod it. And I enjoy modding; it gives me experience while improving the machine. I will make this mod first; as I don't like possible shorts in my electrical circuits. I am looking forward to playing with this machine. I just sold my Cubex Trio to buy the MonoPrice. The Cubex Trio was just too finicky for me. That, and the proprietary slicer files (dot cubex : proprietary and encrypted), and the filament cartridges having an ID chip in them so you are tied to their very expensive cartridges.
I know, I know. These days people have the attention span of a goldfish. Fortunately, there's a scrubber bar on the video and those so afflicted can simply slide along to the point they're interested in.
![[Live] : ONE FIGHT NIGHT 26 วันนี้!! “คริสเตียน vs อาลิเบก”](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UlIiZ3t8nHQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Love the "printing Morse Code" in the beginning. Cool.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. After many months I finally want to do the modification but needed to know exactly where the problem lies. You showed it very clearly.
Great mod to prevent future failures Kevin. I already have a few mods lined up for my printer if it ever gets here.
Yep. Have the exact same printed. Those bed wires broke in half after a year of operation.
Very odd, I just looked at mine I got for Christmas. Mine has a flat cable that runs on the bottom. There is no interference.
Rob H I think there are many micro-revisions that get shipped out, I’ve read about similar cases to yours but with different parts.
I'll be doing a similar mod to mine. I'm going to drill a 12mm hole in the back and re-use the rubber grommet from the bed. That will allow me to keep the original steel side plate.
i can use silicone wire to replace those. 22AWG will do it.
Just wanted to say I watched your video before getting my printer and was going to do this mod but it appears they have chnaged the design og the wiring to the bed. The hole into the chassis is long now and thw wires go to the middle of the bed so don't get stretched right to the back. And with the hole being a long slot now it allows the wires to move forward and backwards in/out of the chassis without being dragged in and out through a small round hole.
Watch where they rub against the wall of the hole. The insulation can be worn through over time.
Thank you for the ideas in fixing the heat bed wires. My display started acting funny showing 999 degree readings and found that the thermister wires have rubbed themselves to exposure. Have some braid that should be perfect that I use in building race quads and good 12 gauge pure copper silicon wires. I love this little Monoprice Mini V2. I cant believe how easy and fun it is to design and make stuff even though it does require some mods to keep it running. Subscribed for future videos, thanks again!
I'll be doing a few more 3D printing vids coming up. I'm taking the printer on the road in my RV. We'll see how it holds up.
Mine is doing the same thing and acting like it's shorting out. Then it goes back to home screen in frozen. I'll take it apart tomorrow. Were your wires frayed?
Nice modification especially when you can print the parts required.
An idea for a print video - a dipole center with a SO239 mount hole and strain relief holes for the radiators.
On the Monoprice mini V2 they re-routed the wires.
another big flaw i saw in other video was the cooler fan working both to cool the head and the print, and its being controlled as print cooler.
Yeah, it kind of makes it a PLA only printer.
Thanks for the video, me and a friend have thought about buying a 3D Printer and the Select mini v2 looks tempting, if we buy one i will definitly do this mod as soon a possible
Looks like they have updated the printer since. Mine has protective rubber over the wires
Hi Kevin, is there any chance of getting your coil former file so we can sort of follow along with your work. Aside from that it looks like a useful former. Great series thank you ZL1NAY
what about using welding lead like what would be used on a Welding set to connect the heating plate to the plate controller.
Thanks for the info. It may help with some of us who do long print runs make it to the end without a failure.
A new subscriber here and fellow ham since 1968. AA9VE 73's
i know this wouldn't be electrically insulated and thus probbably not meet some mandated regulations, but from an engineering perspective, if you ran a insulated material along the underside of the bed and put 4 copper strips ( 2 for the bed, 2 for the thermister) and installed contact brushes coming up from the housing of the control board, would that hold up over time?
A lot of current would mean eventual arcing and sparking. I thought about using the linear bearings as moving contacts also. But, same problem, plus you'd eventually pit the bearings and make them bind.
Wish I had known about this issue right when I got my printer. Great video!
Thanks so much!
My heater bed ground cable broke inside the insulation, but now its fixed!
I did your mod but could you add the detail of gromit sizes to get so I can save some time futzing at the hardware store? If you don't remember no worries...I'll just take the printed cable holder and test what they have against it.
I had a collection of them, not sure of the size. Sorry.
Did you use heavier gauge wire than it was shipped with? If so, which?
Hi Kevin,
Looks like that mod prevented a heated bed failure sooner than later. :-) 73 WB3BJU
Recently purchased this 3D printer in Nov 2018 and having seen your video, decided I should do this Mod. However when examining the bed wiring, I see they have changed the cable layout, which now runs through a slot in the base in a protected sheath and hopefully appears to resolve this flaw. Good on them for listening and resolving this problem. G4PEY
That is good news! I guess they are paying attention.
Same timeframe. Same "fixed" model. Unfortunately, it is no better in my opinion. You have the same stiff wire that has to flex. The new slot fixes the bounce-back observed in Kevin's video when moving backwards, but replaces it with resistance moving forwards. In fact, multiple unpowered tests with my bed shows that the wire is actually colliding and forcibly pushing itself around, and past, the tension pully under the bed. Sometimes it will rise above the pulley entirely, but more often than not it does not. Needless to say, having wire colliding with and pushing past a moving pulley is probably as bad, or worse, than the original design over time.
I don't think you're going to find any of these cheap imported printers that don't need modification right from the get-go.
@@loughkb they still fail, all they did is move the failure point to where the wires flex where they are zip-tied to the frame inside. The cheap wire breaks inside the insulation, and it doesn't take long. My thermister wire failed first, so I replaced all the wiring with good silicone insulation "RC model" wiring and re-routed like yours. Works great, but of course isn't reversible to send it in for any other warranty work.
Sorry to post on an old video. Did you ever had issues with the controller freaking out mid print?
Mine started doing that after almost 4 years of reliable printing. Its printing, and all of the suddent the menus go back to home. Movement continues, it might layer shift, but it does continue printing, however heaters turn off, so you can imagine how messy that is.
Just wanted to ask if that was a thing you might have dealt with.
Probably your sd card. Is going bad
Kevin Loughin gotcha. I got a fresh one in, trying the same print. Same gcode. We’ll see. Thanks!!!
@@loughkb Yup. Fresh card worked fine. Wow...so freaking weird. The file read just fine on the computer. CRC looked ok too. I guess reads might have been inconsistent while on the printer. Thank you so much.
@@vmr5469 Flash memory has a limited number of writes before cells start to fail and bits stick. The old CF cards seemed to be more rubust. MicroSD cards don't last as long for some reason. I've had a few fail over recent years.
stl? for the peices?
They're linked in the description below the video.
thanks for sharing. could you please provide us with the link for the spool holder and the stuff you've printed for the feeder? cheerio
I don't have them handy. But if you search for the printer on thingiverse, you'll find them along with several other accessories.
Kevin, that's brilliant! Do you have plans to share this mod with a printer user group? I think many can benefit from your discoveries. 73
QUICK question! I haven't had my Monoprice mini for long, and after about 5 prints it started to just shut off in the middle of prints. Do you think that re-seating and / or re-routing my hotbed wires might solve this issue?
Shut off as in the display goes dark, fans stop, just like if you turned off the power switch? That *could* be the wires shorting. A short will shutdown a switching power supply, like what is used to power this printer.
AS you saw in my vid, those wires had cracked through the insulation after a week and just a few prints. Si I suppose it's possible they shorted at that point on yours.
Regardless, this mod is necessary on all of these select mini's, as long as they ship them with the wires zip tied at that point.
Thanks Kevin. And yes, midprint its like the printer will shut off. I thought maybe it was pulling too much power in the room I had it plugged into (old house), but it did the same plugged into a kitchen outlet (with more modern wiring). I have yet to get a look at the wires (if the insulation got stripped), but, as you said, your mod is necessary no matter so it wouldn't hurt to just do it and see. If it stops my issue I could always THEN print the side panels.
Are you printing using its original microsd card? I know they're prone to corrupt the gcode files, which causes the printer to reboot midprint. Happened to me once.
No. It was junk. I found another sandisk 2GB card and used it.
Does v2 suffer the same issues?
Unknown. I haven't seen one in person.
I am new on 3D printing, but where can I find the model for these parts? Thank you!
Just follow the link in the video description. Thought I'd mentioned that in the video.
Sorry Kevin, I missed it. Thank you!!!
When u going live stream again??
Next Saturday. I'll be posting an announcement soon.
Now I can say it's a grate video !
Yes, A .zip file with the three parts is linked in the video description.
You are right thanks !
Is this on the v2 or v1?
This was quite a while ago, I no longer have the printer and can't remember. It's whichever model was available around the year the video was made.
Kevin could you please share the size of the terminal pins that are needed for this. All my wires are frayed at the terminals so I need to replace the wires completely and trying to remove the wires from the pins (not the clip harness) is impossible. Thanks in advance
Thanks for the video Kevin! My little printer delivered last night! I'll print the strain relief parts and install this mod right away! Are you putting your files up on Thingiverse? I'm really surprised this is a known issue and it wasn't fixed in V.2 of this machine.
There is a link in the video description that will get you the three files needed for this mod. I do intend to ask the monoprice rep about this when I go to the midwest reprap festival next month.
Haven’t bought a 3D printer yet - I enjoy your videos. I’m a very old old tech guy as well. Many hobbies now that retired 73 frank, K5OX, Houston
Thank you so much. My new MonoPrice printer will arrive next week.
I, too, figured that for this price I'd have to mod it. And I enjoy modding; it gives me experience while improving the machine.
I will make this mod first; as I don't like possible shorts in my electrical circuits.
I am looking forward to playing with this machine.
I just sold my Cubex Trio to buy the MonoPrice. The Cubex Trio was just too finicky for me. That, and the proprietary slicer files (dot cubex : proprietary and encrypted), and the filament cartridges having an ID chip in them so you are tied to their very expensive cartridges.
Romex*
Nice video, thanks for sharing! Jim
Arrghh that damned cable. It needs a decent bit of wire as the stuff they used originally just work hardens
Good job
Great video, thanks!
nice vid buddy
Awesome.. Thank you!
Love the mod! KB1ZGK
Get a piece of glass for the bed. Its a different printer!
Cheap, but its not Chinese.
Zach Waters It actually is. The Monoprice Select Mini is really a rebranded Malyan 3D printer
Gee, get to the point already guy
I know, I know. These days people have the attention span of a goldfish. Fortunately, there's a scrubber bar on the video and those so afflicted can simply slide along to the point they're interested in.
You sound like Jordan Peterson.
My wires were tied so the unit couldn't even home, the wires would hang and the stepper just clicked.