My father didn't want to get a new monitor, but his ancient 20-inch failed. So i spent a week reverse engineering the power supply, disabling the CCFL drive, finding the PWM control signal and breaking it out, peeling apart the glass layers, removing the CCFLs, gluing new LED strips in there, repairing the LED strips because they got damaged in the mail, adding a controller. It was not an expensive project since i already had a monitor LED retrofit kit and it only cost me $4 shipped, but it was extremely laborious. I had repaired the same monitor 3 or 4 times before, but i could never do it properly because he hurried me up all the time, and eventually CCFL tubes themselves failed, and those are just too expensive. In hindsight i should have also ordered some higher quality LEDs from a trusted local supplier and just heatgunned the strips to get the original LEDs off, and soldered all the new ones, less finicky than repair, and the backlight colour came out a bit filthy, it could have been much better with more neutral LEDs. But i'm never ever doing this kind of thing again, no way. I also repaired both of my LCD monitors, one i found on the side of the road, and another i got about 9 years ago. In my own, it was just cap failure. In the one i found, there was liquid damage and two drive transistors have given up. I also had to 3D print a new button panel for the latter, because the original one exploded into thousands of pieces, and i filled the dents in the shell and painted it flat black. Otherwise, most things i have, are things i had to repair at least once... i don't actually find it so exciting any longer, more disappointing when i don't manage to, usually makes for a quality of life decrease. I wish i could afford something new though, something nice.
An ARP Omni 2 ensemble synth. Whilst the ensemble part worked fine, the synth section didn’t. I tracked the fault down to some unmelted solder which was bridging across a metal can transistor. It must have left the factory like that!
Excellent video. I recommend you rename this video to include the words "Mackie CR3" since this was exactly the solution I was looking for but 90% of the top results recommended snipping the 5th pin (which gets rid of the option to use headphones with the speakers muted.) Your solution is a lot more elegant and I think others will find it useful.
Thank you! I had the same issue, and your video gave me the confidence to replace the Caps even though they weren't bulging. Now I am all set, no more buzz.
I have the same set of speakers and I've had to replace the caps and the L/R switch. The PCB paths came right off the wafer, so I ended up having to replace one path with a wire. This was about 3 years ago at this point. They've worked great since!
Hey Jessie I’m having a issue with my L/R switch myself. ☠️☠️☠️ Can you send me some feedback on what to do please! 🤔🤔🤔 You said you replaced it ha, where would I find a replacement? I’m all new at this so any info would help tremendously. 🦇🦇🦇 Ohhh or maybe it’s not that cause I just messed with them and if I push the wire to the aux cord all the way in, it doesn’t transfer sound to the passive speaker and if I barely put in the aux cord in it works just fine? 🤔🤔🤔 Maybe I should replace the aux input?
The PCB area where the +/-12V power supply happens (where the two big resistors are) is quite unburnt for a board that has been used for 6 years (or it is not well visible in the video). This is a common problem as zener diodes in there practically bake the board and the surrounding components due to excessive heat they produce, which is probably why those capacitors failed. 🙂 Great fix! I have the same CR4 model and I fixed mine, too. They have worked great ever since.
How about the switch in the back(the L-R one)? If you have to mess with it to have sound come out and it only comes out of one speaker usually and it sound static-like, what can it be?
@@E-D-J I used the contact cleaner spray on the switch. I moved the switch handle to slightly expose the gap between itself and the small plate with contacts and sprayed inside, wiggled the switch left-right and repeated the process. It hasn't given me any trouble since.
@@E-D-J If the switch is the only issue, then you needn't disassemble anything. Use the spray directly on the switch, through the groove between the switch handle and its base plate. Just make sure that the contact spray is plastic compatible and that it removes rust and cleans contact surfaces. Once it enters the interior if the switch, move the switch quickly a few times from L to R position. Repeat the process and it should clean the contact plates and repair the switch. Try it.
I'm in a similar position right now. I've had some M-Audio monitors that I mainly use with the PC/laptop for around eight years now. For the past year or so I noticed that the right channel was slowly fading compared to the left channel, in the past week they've also developed a buzz. It may be time to put my misspent childhood, taking things apart like yourself, into practice.
I've just bought a pair of these used for fairly cheap because although they work, they overheat after a long period of use and suddenly shut off. Do you have any idea about what might be going on?
I would open them up and look around for what's getting hot. Mine don't heat up so should be fairly easy to find the offending component and replace it.
Have a set of Mackie cr3-x gold issue. The main TAS5611A amplifier chip is completely fried. New board is the only way. I bought them used, so I doubt Mackie will warranty it. Things are practically brand new looking. I know the golds haven't been around very long.
I really appreciate the video. Great sounding speakers like these should not go to waste! I have a pair of Mackie CR4s, and have had to clean the L/R switch a couple times now. These wonderful speakers sat collecting dust for a few years because I thought the switch was completely shot and wasn't prepared to take apart the amplifier to replace it. I'm a long-term fledgling tinkerer, you might say. So I tried a little 90% alcohol and lots of back and forth with the switch instead. I was absolutely thrilled when I turned them on and heard sound from both speakers. Now if I get the buzzing, I know what to do for that too.
Thank you for the video. It's very useful, but a couldn't remove the back cover cover. I removed all the screws, but the cover seems glued, it's imposible to take it out. Do you have some suggestion?
I had the same problem. Fortunately this video give the picture of how it was _supposed_ to come apart, and I was able to use a pair of pliers to give one of the sturdier-looking bits a tug and that loosened it up.
I finally opened up my primary speaker to see how it looked inside, and the capacitors do not seem to be bulging, and nothing else seems out of place. Should I go ahead and replace the capacitors anyway and see if it fixes the problem?
Thank you for this video. I have the same set of speakers. The problem with mine is the switch in the back that switches from L-R. I have to to fiddle with it to get it to sound and the sound only comes out of one speaker depending where I leave it. is this a quick fix or would i have to replace something?
I would simply replace the switch or bypass it completely. If you don't have a need to switch it, the easiest way would be to simply solder the connection to L or R. You can test which contacts are being closed with a multimeter. They have some sprays you can buy, but for a single switch, the switch will cost far less. The issue is oxidation generally from the copper or metal components used in the switch. Knobs often suffer from this as well.
Hey, I also use this pair of speakers for quite some years. A few months ago the active one started to make some random noise, which is hard to explain, but maybe a little bit like a noise which is normally induced by a mobile phone. The sound mostly ended in a bang. First of all I thought it would be the cable from my PC to the speaker, but neither exchanging the cable nor the different interface on my PC has been helpful. Meanwhile the ranom noise is compoletely gone, but the loud bang still comes. Also interesting is, that the turn-switch doesn't affect this (if it's off, the bang-sound still comes), which also left me confused in the beginning, until I noticed, that there's a main switch on the backside. This means or seems like that the electrical connection is active as long as the main switch is turned off. Well, do you think, it's also a capacitor which cuases that issue?
Hi Rob, nice video, thanks for sharing your experience! Love the capacitor discharge calculator website. Last thing i repaired was an old analogic multimeter, my first one that i used when i was at electronics technician school. Greetings my friend!
Hey There, I really Appreciate the video, I have a CR4 Mackie speakers they hae the same circuit as this one, the Problem is that the output is extremely low like I have to keep my ears so close to the speakers....any Idea or suggestions of what might be the problem?
Hey Makers Mashup! Thanks for the great video! I have a subwoofer that makes this sound for a second or two once it is turned on. I just finished replacing the capacitors and I still have the buzz for a second when I power on the subwoofer. What would I do next? Thanks for all tips
One of my Mackie powered speakers alway has issues. It works but the sound is very low, no bass really and even the highs are tinny, In fact the sound seems like it’s running through an effects cut off for highs it’s weird. I can get it back to normal by unplugging RCA and crating a horrible feedback/loud bump/ hum sound briefly as I unplug and plug in. I think something is wrong with the speaker any ideas what it could be? It’s deffo the speaker.
Could be. I'm not familiar enough with the circuit they used but if those caps were for the amplifier it's quite possible. Preamp power is generally considerably less output. At least woth a look inside to see if there any caps with telltale signs.
Rob, Thanks for the video, I think i experienced the same issue with my speakers after moving to a new house. I don't get the buzzing sound you are experiencing but sound comes out but not at the right volume, and its choppy and staticy. I am noticing my Transformer is fairly hot to the touch and the capacitors are bulging. You think this fix would solve the problem? Appreciate the help!
Greetings, I just bought a brand new JBL 305p MK2 and it was playing very great first 2 days but today Its just playing at an insanely low level that i can barely hear. It's also making popping sounds here and their. Im still hearing bass but im hearing a loud Hiss noise when i put my hear close to the tweeters. Sometimes when i turn the volume knob at the back of the speakers up and down, after a while it will just start playing fine for a few minutes and then a pop and it start playing low again... Which makes me to believe maybe their is a loose wire of something inside the speaker? Im not an audio technition but I would appreciate your advice. Thank you
Discord is probably a better place to get this kind if help but it sounds like a blown tweeter. If you hear bass and some crackling it could be that the tweeter is gone. Otherwise no idea off hand would have to troubleshoot it.
Sounds like a power issue. I would grab a multimeter and start checking for power inside. Be careful though since you don't know where the failure is and the inside does have mains voltage. I would look for a broken cap or inrush resistor that might have blown. See if the board itself is getting power and isolate where the failure is. If you drop into the discord, myself and others can help you troubleshoot when available.
I have nearly the same speakers and I made the boneheaded mistake of connecting an amplifier to the output and after that I connected the left speaker and it makes a constant loud buzzing (left works fine) did i fry the electronics on the active speaker? and the capacitors are practically brand new as the speakers are only about 3 years old so I don’t think that’s the issue.
Hi Rob, thanks for the video I am about to start the same repair, just one question, how do I know when the capacitor has been safely discharged, I have readings of -0.6.1 (in the 200mv position) it has not dropped since about 20 minutes, and the other thing, how do I know the right "polarity" of the new caps, just by position itself? (Both caps staring at different angles)
Sounds like its already discharged if you're in the millivolt range on your meter. All good there. The new caps should have a negative sign (-) on them. Usually most vendors make it very obvious. Just insert them back in with the negative in the same hole the existing one comes out. Otherwise you will likely experience this. th-cam.com/video/NOVOON4lJog/w-d-xo.html If for some reason that does happen, you can just replace the cap again. :) Good luck and hope it works for you.
In my case, when I touch that L/R Position Select, one side of the monitor only works. I always have to kinda wiggle it to get both of the speakers work together. Do you know what’s wrong with mine? I don’t really wanna buy new pairs. Thanks in advance :)
Hi! I have active ATC speakers, almost 20 years old. Last summer I payed someone to replace the electrolytic capacitors in it, but it still buzzez when I plug it in/turn it on. (even when the signal cable is out) Why could this be? Should someone replace the coupling capacitors as well? The ceramics? Or maybe it's the toroidal transformer?? Or just an earth issue? (then why does it buzz with the signal cable pulled out) Help me, please... :/
my CR3's outright died. the power stage of the board is discolored, looks cooked. sucks how they stuffed all those hot components in that tiny space. really should have a cooling fan or something
I would presume a passive speaker. 👻 Seriously, should just be the speaker. Passive speakers are just that. There could be electronics in it but I think it's unlikely. Some manufacturers will throw a capacitor on the speaker but for studio monitors I wouldn't expect that.
Hey Rob! Quick question, I have the same studio monitors and I’ve had them for about 7-8 years as well. Recently, one of the studio monitors has been slow to start up upon turning it on. Now it won’t playback any audio, do you think it’s a capacitor problem as well?
Capacitors are generally marked. You have 2 values on them. The capacitance usually in microfarads, and the voltage. Both are generally marked on the capacitor. The type is also a factor so make sure if you're replacing one you match the type as well. Electrolytic are the ones replaced in the video. I think I bought these from Digikey.
For the cost of the capacitors and the time to solder them I would give it a shot for sure. Sometimes bulges are hard to see. I would also check other capacitors on there in the event it is just a different one that is bulging. Electrolytic capacitors fail often and they are easy to replace. I personally would replace them and check for the possibility of different ones failing. Worst case you spend $5 and some time but the upside is it will likely fix it and you saved yourself far more than the investment. FWIW mine are still working great after this video.
@@MakersMashup thanks for the quick reply man stressing out here yeh I’m gonna go try replace them only thing is that ive not got that meter to check on the drainage
The reason why capacitors fail and also board charred Is due to PCB Is too thin to manage heat of the +12-12V diodes and resistors bad design of the board vs heat.
this looks pretty complex. I don't have any of the tools you use to check voltage or loosen the sodder joints. should I just buy some new speakers? lol
Meters are pretty cheap these days. Its good to have these tools if you ever want to fix or even test electrical devices. Caps blow rather often, an $11 meter (amzn.to/3unNgpi) may save you a ton of money over time.
is it okay if the alcohol make contact with the other components surface..? the glue that spread on my CR4 Board is so thick, and why the manufacturer glued all of this components in the first place if i may ask..? Thank you for your response, i really appreciate it, it really helps me a lot.
The glue is so the parts don't vibrate apart with speaker vibrations. 95% isopropyl alcohol is fine touching other components just let it dry before soldering or turning on the device.
Oh.. that's make sense.. thank you for your explanation, i didn't realized about the vibration untill now.. 😅 i'll try all of your advice, you've made my day.. thank you so much.. 😁
Whether you are aware of this or not, TH-cam has decided to Monetise your Channel for there own financial gain. You as a Developer with differing ideas will never see any gain financially. You agreed to all Terms and Services. Therefore, your videos are slapped with Ads, depending on a Country, be these ads inappropriate or negligent. A technocrat has befallen your Judgement.
What was the most exciting thing you've ever repaired?
My father didn't want to get a new monitor, but his ancient 20-inch failed. So i spent a week reverse engineering the power supply, disabling the CCFL drive, finding the PWM control signal and breaking it out, peeling apart the glass layers, removing the CCFLs, gluing new LED strips in there, repairing the LED strips because they got damaged in the mail, adding a controller. It was not an expensive project since i already had a monitor LED retrofit kit and it only cost me $4 shipped, but it was extremely laborious. I had repaired the same monitor 3 or 4 times before, but i could never do it properly because he hurried me up all the time, and eventually CCFL tubes themselves failed, and those are just too expensive.
In hindsight i should have also ordered some higher quality LEDs from a trusted local supplier and just heatgunned the strips to get the original LEDs off, and soldered all the new ones, less finicky than repair, and the backlight colour came out a bit filthy, it could have been much better with more neutral LEDs. But i'm never ever doing this kind of thing again, no way.
I also repaired both of my LCD monitors, one i found on the side of the road, and another i got about 9 years ago. In my own, it was just cap failure. In the one i found, there was liquid damage and two drive transistors have given up. I also had to 3D print a new button panel for the latter, because the original one exploded into thousands of pieces, and i filled the dents in the shell and painted it flat black.
Otherwise, most things i have, are things i had to repair at least once... i don't actually find it so exciting any longer, more disappointing when i don't manage to, usually makes for a quality of life decrease. I wish i could afford something new though, something nice.
An ARP Omni 2 ensemble synth. Whilst the ensemble part worked fine, the synth section didn’t. I tracked the fault down to some unmelted solder which was bridging across a metal can transistor. It must have left the factory like that!
Excellent video. I recommend you rename this video to include the words "Mackie CR3" since this was exactly the solution I was looking for but 90% of the top results recommended snipping the 5th pin (which gets rid of the option to use headphones with the speakers muted.) Your solution is a lot more elegant and I think others will find it useful.
Great idea. Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you! I had the same issue, and your video gave me the confidence to replace the Caps even though they weren't bulging. Now I am all set, no more buzz.
That is awesome to hear. Makes me happy to know this video helped others with the problem. Thanks for sharing your results!
I have the same set of speakers and I've had to replace the caps and the L/R switch. The PCB paths came right off the wafer, so I ended up having to replace one path with a wire. This was about 3 years ago at this point. They've worked great since!
Hey Jessie I’m having a issue with my
L/R switch myself. ☠️☠️☠️
Can you send me some feedback on what to do please! 🤔🤔🤔
You said you replaced it ha, where would I find a replacement?
I’m all new at this so any info would help tremendously. 🦇🦇🦇
Ohhh or maybe it’s not that cause I just messed with them and if I push the wire to the aux cord all the way in, it doesn’t transfer sound to the passive speaker and if I barely put in the aux cord in it works just fine? 🤔🤔🤔 Maybe I should replace the aux input?
The PCB area where the +/-12V power supply happens (where the two big resistors are) is quite unburnt for a board that has been used for 6 years (or it is not well visible in the video). This is a common problem as zener diodes in there practically bake the board and the surrounding components due to excessive heat they produce, which is probably why those capacitors failed. 🙂
Great fix! I have the same CR4 model and I fixed mine, too. They have worked great ever since.
How about the switch in the back(the L-R one)? If you have to mess with it to have sound come out and it only comes out of one speaker usually and it sound static-like, what can it be?
@@E-D-J I used the contact cleaner spray on the switch. I moved the switch handle to slightly expose the gap between itself and the small plate with contacts and sprayed inside, wiggled the switch left-right and repeated the process. It hasn't given me any trouble since.
@@VolfMark
Contact cleaner spray? So you didn't have to uncrew anything?
@@E-D-J If the switch is the only issue, then you needn't disassemble anything. Use the spray directly on the switch, through the groove between the switch handle and its base plate. Just make sure that the contact spray is plastic compatible and that it removes rust and cleans contact surfaces. Once it enters the interior if the switch, move the switch quickly a few times from L to R position. Repeat the process and it should clean the contact plates and repair the switch. Try it.
@@VolfMark
Any contact cleaner that you recommend?
I actually have a pair of CR5BT that suddenly stopped working. I wish I had your knowledge to open mine up and try to fix them.
Thank you for such a clear and helpful video. Appreciate your knowledge.
I'm in a similar position right now. I've had some M-Audio monitors that I mainly use with the PC/laptop for around eight years now. For the past year or so I noticed that the right channel was slowly fading compared to the left channel, in the past week they've also developed a buzz. It may be time to put my misspent childhood, taking things apart like yourself, into practice.
Just picked up these same speakers for free because they don’t work and I suspect this is the exact fix I need to do. Thanks for sharing!
I've just bought a pair of these used for fairly cheap because although they work, they overheat after a long period of use and suddenly shut off. Do you have any idea about what might be going on?
I would open them up and look around for what's getting hot. Mine don't heat up so should be fairly easy to find the offending component and replace it.
I ordered Nichicon KA 35v 4700uf caps . Hoping for good results .
Have a set of Mackie cr3-x gold issue. The main TAS5611A amplifier chip is completely fried. New board is the only way. I bought them used, so I doubt Mackie will warranty it. Things are practically brand new looking. I know the golds haven't been around very long.
I really appreciate the video. Great sounding speakers like these should not go to waste!
I have a pair of Mackie CR4s, and have had to clean the L/R switch a couple times now. These wonderful speakers sat collecting dust for a few years because I thought the switch was completely shot and wasn't prepared to take apart the amplifier to replace it. I'm a long-term fledgling tinkerer, you might say. So I tried a little 90% alcohol and lots of back and forth with the switch instead. I was absolutely thrilled when I turned them on and heard sound from both speakers. Now if I get the buzzing, I know what to do for that too.
Did you have to take them apart, or how did you apply the alcohol?
Thank you for the video. It's very useful, but a couldn't remove the back cover cover. I removed all the screws, but the cover seems glued, it's imposible to take it out. Do you have some suggestion?
it should just pull apart. Perhaps just a tight fit?
I had the same problem. Fortunately this video give the picture of how it was _supposed_ to come apart, and I was able to use a pair of pliers to give one of the sturdier-looking bits a tug and that loosened it up.
Your excellent video helped me fix the exact same issue I had with my Mackie CR4. Thanks.
I finally opened up my primary speaker to see how it looked inside, and the capacitors do not seem to be bulging, and nothing else seems out of place. Should I go ahead and replace the capacitors anyway and see if it fixes the problem?
Thank you for this video. I have the same set of speakers. The problem with mine is the switch in the back that switches from L-R. I have to to fiddle with it to get it to sound and the sound only comes out of one speaker depending where I leave it. is this a quick fix or would i have to replace something?
I would simply replace the switch or bypass it completely. If you don't have a need to switch it, the easiest way would be to simply solder the connection to L or R. You can test which contacts are being closed with a multimeter. They have some sprays you can buy, but for a single switch, the switch will cost far less. The issue is oxidation generally from the copper or metal components used in the switch. Knobs often suffer from this as well.
@@MakersMashup
Thank you. BTW, do you have a video showing the insides of this speaker and the switch?
@@E-D-J just the one you watched here.
not all heroes wear capes. good looks
What capacitors did you buy for this fix ?
Hey, I also use this pair of speakers for quite some years. A few months ago the active one started to make some random noise, which is hard to explain, but maybe a little bit like a noise which is normally induced by a mobile phone. The sound mostly ended in a bang.
First of all I thought it would be the cable from my PC to the speaker, but neither exchanging the cable nor the different interface on my PC has been helpful.
Meanwhile the ranom noise is compoletely gone, but the loud bang still comes. Also interesting is, that the turn-switch doesn't affect this (if it's off, the bang-sound still comes), which also left me confused in the beginning, until I noticed, that there's a main switch on the backside. This means or seems like that the electrical connection is active as long as the main switch is turned off.
Well, do you think, it's also a capacitor which cuases that issue?
Do you need to drain anything when changing the Stereo pan slide switch?
Shouldn't be necessary.
@@MakersMashup wow.. thanks!
Hmmm...good job on the video....very informative....hope youtubers contribute to your hard work putting this information out to us
mine is with a small clip when I turn it on, even though it's completely unplugged from my focusritte
can it be the capacitor too?
Hi Rob, nice video, thanks for sharing your experience! Love the capacitor discharge calculator website. Last thing i repaired was an old analogic multimeter, my first one that i used when i was at electronics technician school. Greetings my friend!
what replacement speakers would fit
Hey There, I really Appreciate the video, I have a CR4 Mackie speakers they hae the same circuit as this one, the Problem is that the output is extremely low like I have to keep my ears so close to the speakers....any Idea or suggestions of what might be the problem?
Could also be a cap. Check for any that might be bulged or leaking.
Hi. I have Pre sonus Erie 5 and the re is no sound coming from speakers. I only hear sound when I plug in headphones. Any solution
Hey Makers Mashup! Thanks for the great video! I have a subwoofer that makes this sound for a second or two once it is turned on. I just finished replacing the capacitors and I still have the buzz for a second when I power on the subwoofer. What would I do next? Thanks for all tips
One of my Mackie powered speakers alway has issues. It works but the sound is very low, no bass really and even the highs are tinny, In fact the sound seems like it’s running through an effects cut off for highs it’s weird. I can get it back to normal by unplugging RCA and crating a horrible feedback/loud bump/ hum sound briefly as I unplug and plug in. I think something is wrong with the speaker any ideas what it could be? It’s deffo the speaker.
Nice! What are the woofer and tweeter specifications? ohms - watts
i need to buy a pair for my monitors
would the capacitors be at fault if the output still exists from the headphone output?
Could be. I'm not familiar enough with the circuit they used but if those caps were for the amplifier it's quite possible. Preamp power is generally considerably less output. At least woth a look inside to see if there any caps with telltale signs.
How di you change a Jack plug it's hard to get to and I need to replace mine
Would this capacitor issue also cause a dip in low end too?
I have the same speakers but the bass doesn't work. How would you fix it?
Rob, Thanks for the video, I think i experienced the same issue with my speakers after moving to a new house. I don't get the buzzing sound you are experiencing but sound comes out but not at the right volume, and its choppy and staticy. I am noticing my Transformer is fairly hot to the touch and the capacitors are bulging. You think this fix would solve the problem? Appreciate the help!
Bulging caps for sure need replacement. Transformer probably doing its job but caps are a concern for sure.
Greetings, I just bought a brand new JBL 305p MK2 and it was playing very great first 2 days but today Its just playing at an insanely low level that i can barely hear. It's also making popping sounds here and their. Im still hearing bass but im hearing a loud Hiss noise when i put my hear close to the tweeters. Sometimes when i turn the volume knob at the back of the speakers up and down, after a while it will just start playing fine for a few minutes and then a pop and it start playing low again... Which makes me to believe maybe their is a loose wire of something inside the speaker? Im not an audio technition but I would appreciate your advice. Thank you
Discord is probably a better place to get this kind if help but it sounds like a blown tweeter. If you hear bass and some crackling it could be that the tweeter is gone. Otherwise no idea off hand would have to troubleshoot it.
hey mister makers mashup, im wondering if you could help me with a big deal i have with my mackie
how do i remove the glue that cover all over the parts, i can't even unscrew the transformator..
My Tweeter blew in the passive speaker. How do I fix that and is it going to cost me a lot to get a Tweeter
You'd have to replace it with a same size and impedance. As for cost that all depends on the quality of the speaker you put in.
My pair of CR3 speakers won't power up at all - no green light, nothing. Any suggestions?
Sounds like a power issue. I would grab a multimeter and start checking for power inside. Be careful though since you don't know where the failure is and the inside does have mains voltage. I would look for a broken cap or inrush resistor that might have blown. See if the board itself is getting power and isolate where the failure is. If you drop into the discord, myself and others can help you troubleshoot when available.
The green light doesn’t turn on, and nothing plays in it. What do I do?
Same here the green light won't turn on
Same issue I have. No green light and no sound. Speakers only lasted about a year.
I have nearly the same speakers and I made the boneheaded mistake of connecting an amplifier to the output and after that I connected the left speaker and it makes a constant loud buzzing (left works fine) did i fry the electronics on the active speaker? and the capacitors are practically brand new as the speakers are only about 3 years old so I don’t think that’s the issue.
how do you connect the resistor and capacitor with the meter to check the voltage? the video was not clear on this
Hi Rob, thanks for the video I am about to start the same repair, just one question, how do I know when the capacitor has been safely discharged, I have readings of -0.6.1 (in the 200mv position) it has not dropped since about 20 minutes, and the other thing, how do I know the right "polarity" of the new caps, just by position itself? (Both caps staring at different angles)
Sounds like its already discharged if you're in the millivolt range on your meter. All good there. The new caps should have a negative sign (-) on them. Usually most vendors make it very obvious. Just insert them back in with the negative in the same hole the existing one comes out. Otherwise you will likely experience this. th-cam.com/video/NOVOON4lJog/w-d-xo.html If for some reason that does happen, you can just replace the cap again. :) Good luck and hope it works for you.
@@MakersMashup Thank you Rob! My monitors are almost like new thanks to you! You have saved me a lot of money! Thanks again
Glad to hear you got it working!
This is exactly what is happening to my monitors! I like to pull things apart too, and I can't find a bulging capacitor at all. Similar size too
I just fixed mine today. Similar buzz... no bulge but I knew it was them. Now it is fixed.
@@richiezombie531 Awesome! Glad they're fixed for you. :)
Carlos
I have exactly the same set. But they stopped working. I wonder if it is the capacitors.
How do you know if the capacitors are not working?
Buzzing would be a good indicator but they may not turn in at all. Caps are pretty cheap to try. Look for bulging on the capacitor
In my case, when I touch that L/R Position Select, one side of the monitor only works. I always have to kinda wiggle it to get both of the speakers work together. Do you know what’s wrong with mine? I don’t really wanna buy new pairs. Thanks in advance :)
If you touch the switch and it does that, probably the switch. It's probably a dpdt , just get a new switch and should be good.
@@MakersMashup okay thanks for your help! :)
Hi! I have active ATC speakers, almost 20 years old. Last summer I payed someone to replace the electrolytic capacitors in it, but it still buzzez when I plug it in/turn it on. (even when the signal cable is out) Why could this be? Should someone replace the coupling capacitors as well? The ceramics? Or maybe it's the toroidal transformer?? Or just an earth issue? (then why does it buzz with the signal cable pulled out) Help me, please... :/
my CR3's outright died. the power stage of the board is discolored, looks cooked. sucks how they stuffed all those hot components in that tiny space. really should have a cooling fan or something
What's inside of the passive speaker?
I would presume a passive speaker. 👻 Seriously, should just be the speaker. Passive speakers are just that. There could be electronics in it but I think it's unlikely. Some manufacturers will throw a capacitor on the speaker but for studio monitors I wouldn't expect that.
thenk you.... Türkiye selamlar
Hey Rob! Quick question, I have the same studio monitors and I’ve had them for about 7-8 years as well. Recently, one of the studio monitors has been slow to start up upon turning it on. Now it won’t playback any audio, do you think it’s a capacitor problem as well?
... I tried switching fuses and replacing fuses but that didn’t help
Yeah that could be a capacitor. Can't say for sure but the slow start sounds like it.
Now that I'm thinking about it I think mine did the same thing.
How did you know which capacitors to get? Where did you get them?
Capacitors are generally marked. You have 2 values on them. The capacitance usually in microfarads, and the voltage. Both are generally marked on the capacitor. The type is also a factor so make sure if you're replacing one you match the type as well. Electrolytic are the ones replaced in the video. I think I bought these from Digikey.
hi mate ive just opened my cr4 up it had that same sound, the capacitors are not bulging do you recommend i still replace them ?
For the cost of the capacitors and the time to solder them I would give it a shot for sure. Sometimes bulges are hard to see. I would also check other capacitors on there in the event it is just a different one that is bulging. Electrolytic capacitors fail often and they are easy to replace. I personally would replace them and check for the possibility of different ones failing. Worst case you spend $5 and some time but the upside is it will likely fix it and you saved yourself far more than the investment. FWIW mine are still working great after this video.
@@MakersMashup thanks for the quick reply man stressing out here yeh I’m gonna go try replace them only thing is that ive not got that meter to check on the drainage
Leave it drain for about 10 minutes and you should be fine.
repair an arcade monitor in the past and love it ;)
Yay im in a video!
The reason why capacitors fail and also board charred Is due to PCB Is too thin to manage heat of the +12-12V diodes and resistors bad design of the board vs heat.
this looks pretty complex. I don't have any of the tools you use to check voltage or loosen the sodder joints. should I just buy some new speakers? lol
Meters are pretty cheap these days. Its good to have these tools if you ever want to fix or even test electrical devices. Caps blow rather often, an $11 meter (amzn.to/3unNgpi) may save you a ton of money over time.
i've tried to replace the capasitor, but it's really annoying when i realized that all of the component are glued..
Try some alcohol to remove the glue.
is it okay if the alcohol make contact with the other components surface..? the glue that spread on my CR4 Board is so thick, and why the manufacturer glued all of this components in the first place if i may ask..?
Thank you for your response, i really appreciate it, it really helps me a lot.
The glue is so the parts don't vibrate apart with speaker vibrations. 95% isopropyl alcohol is fine touching other components just let it dry before soldering or turning on the device.
Oh.. that's make sense.. thank you for your explanation, i didn't realized about the vibration untill now.. 😅
i'll try all of your advice, you've made my day.. thank you so much.. 😁
you jump the cap with peice of wire. it takes a split second and sometimes makes a really cool bang and sparks.
Wow $140.00?🤔 I paid like $80.00 from amazon… 🔥🔥🔥
Yeah, they were much more expensive when initially released.
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