@Aharndts That's not the reason I insert the veneer between the segments, but I suppose it could help with that issue. I like the accent of the contrast between the segments. The bowl I show in this video will have a sycamore top ring made of 8 segments with no veneer between them, so I will have segments with and without veneers between them.
I see people go through all sorts of methods centering any bowl base to a waste block for turning. A couple things comes to mind. Why not turn a 3/4 inch wide raised circle on the outside of the waste block and glue only there. With the faceplate and the waste block on the lathe it makes more sense to me to spread the glue and use the tailstock center to locate the exact center easily and quickly. I bet I can even get a couple small clamps to hold it securely in place then remove the faceplate and bowl bottom from the lathe and securely clamp it off the lathe. I now have done this very fast plus when it comes time to part off the bowl from the glue block I only need to cut in 3/4 of a inch to detach the bowl. Just me but I always try to look for the simple solution.
James Stanlake The 3/4 inch wide raised ring is a good idea. That keeps the torque out where it will be distributed evenly. It certainly would hold well and keep the hydraulic bearing effect at bay. The idea about using the tailstock to find the center didn't work for me, particularly on taller items. It will seat the work sometimes on an angle relative to the faceplate. You may not even perceive it because we're talking maybe .020 or so, but enough to put a wobble into it when you start to spin. Also, for segmented work the inner geometry will be rough and not a good gauge for finding the true center. Though the center point of the tailstock may locate the center at the point of contact, that's no guarantee that the base will follow. This is experience talking, but of course there are solutions for everything. There is no perfectly right or wrong way to do any of this. I'm just showing my method. Thanks for your comments and input on this. Everything helps.
Could you find the centre of the glue block then set the pointer over that point and slide the piece in to be glued on, setting the centre of the piece under the pointer? Great work, really well thought out. I admire your skill and ingenuity.
Hadn't thought about pressure distrubution. I did realize it wouldn't work for the ring however, so you're still stuck with the same delima anyway. And of course I would forget to put the rag down - you've been to my shop haven't you?
That might work with the base, but it won't work with the ring. I've tried making a cone to center a ring and never get the accuracy I need. I don't like using the lathe as a press because I don't like trying to hold It all together while cranking the tailstock against the work. Also, you'll be applying pressure just at the center, not evenly distributed. Then there's the glue dripping out on the rag you forgot to put down before you start. I always use this method to center and glue.
Cool idea! I like your method for centering off the lathe. Is there a reason you do not just put your faceplate on the lathe and use your tailstock to center and hold the bottom of the bowl until the glue is cured?
I am getting ready to try your design on the bottom of the bowl and noticed the color of your glue. I use titebond 2 / what are you using. Thanks / great video
Ein bißchen sehr umständlich gemacht. Die Mitte hätte man auch deutlich einfacher finden können, oder? Und mich stört sehr dass nur eine Seite des Schalenbodens plangeschliffen wurde sodass die hellen Furnierstreifen und die Kleberreste auf der Oberseite hoch stehen. Keine saubere Vorführung.
I found that the accuracy of centering is better using this technique. This registers the center relative to the most important aspect, which for me is the vertical veneer lines in each outer segment. Also, the reason I only flatten the bottom of the ring is so I can turn the top flat on the lathe. That way I'm certain to get that surface perpendicular to the axis. Then when I place the top ring on I can make that thin if I want and you won't see any variation in thickness as you rotate the bowl.
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Another great video,
Thank you so much. (said enthusiastic)
This goes in my inspiration list.
Greets.
@Aharndts That's not the reason I insert the veneer between the segments, but I suppose it could help with that issue. I like the accent of the contrast between the segments. The bowl I show in this video will have a sycamore top ring made of 8 segments with no veneer between them, so I will have segments with and without veneers between them.
I see people go through all sorts of methods centering any bowl base to a waste block for turning. A couple things comes to mind. Why not turn a 3/4 inch wide raised circle on the outside of the waste block and glue only there.
With the faceplate and the waste block on the lathe it makes more sense to me to spread the glue and use the tailstock center to locate the exact center easily and quickly. I bet I can even get a couple small clamps to hold it securely in place then remove the faceplate and bowl bottom from the lathe and securely clamp it off the lathe. I now have done this very fast plus when it comes time to part off the bowl from the glue block I only need to cut in 3/4 of a inch to detach the bowl.
Just me but I always try to look for the simple solution.
James Stanlake The 3/4 inch wide raised ring is a good idea. That keeps the torque out where it will be distributed evenly. It certainly would hold well and keep the hydraulic bearing effect at bay. The idea about using the tailstock to find the center didn't work for me, particularly on taller items. It will seat the work sometimes on an angle relative to the faceplate. You may not even perceive it because we're talking maybe .020 or so, but enough to put a wobble into it when you start to spin. Also, for segmented work the inner geometry will be rough and not a good gauge for finding the true center. Though the center point of the tailstock may locate the center at the point of contact, that's no guarantee that the base will follow. This is experience talking, but of course there are solutions for everything. There is no perfectly right or wrong way to do any of this. I'm just showing my method. Thanks for your comments and input on this. Everything helps.
James Stanlake
It's going to be an interesting bowl.
Could you find the centre of the glue block then set the pointer over that point and slide the piece in to be glued on, setting the centre of the piece under the pointer?
Great work, really well thought out. I admire your skill and ingenuity.
Hadn't thought about pressure distrubution. I did realize it wouldn't work for the ring however, so you're still stuck with the same delima anyway. And of course I would forget to put the rag down - you've been to my shop haven't you?
That might work with the base, but it won't work with the ring. I've tried making a cone to center a ring and never get the accuracy I need. I don't like using the lathe as a press because I don't like trying to hold It all together while cranking the tailstock against the work. Also, you'll be applying pressure just at the center, not evenly distributed. Then there's the glue dripping out on the rag you forgot to put down before you start. I always use this method to center and glue.
Cool idea! I like your method for centering off the lathe.
Is there a reason you do not just put your faceplate on the lathe and use your tailstock to center and hold the bottom of the bowl until the glue is cured?
I am getting ready to try your design on the bottom of the bowl and noticed the color of your glue. I use titebond 2 / what are you using. Thanks / great video
Do you use a paper joint between your bowl base and waste block ?
Why can't you use your tailstock to center the segmented base against the waste block and let the glue cure with the piece on the lathe?
I see a lot of those that segment use veneers in between segments, is this to offset issues cause by the wicking action of end grain with glue?
why not mount the face plate on the lathe then use you tail stock to align the piece for glue up using your center point
larga este celular
Ein bißchen sehr umständlich gemacht. Die Mitte hätte man auch deutlich einfacher finden können, oder? Und mich stört sehr dass nur eine Seite des Schalenbodens plangeschliffen wurde sodass die hellen Furnierstreifen und die Kleberreste auf der Oberseite hoch stehen. Keine saubere Vorführung.
I found that the accuracy of centering is better using this technique. This registers the center relative to the most important aspect, which for me is the vertical veneer lines in each outer segment. Also, the reason I only flatten the bottom of the ring is so I can turn the top flat on the lathe. That way I'm certain to get that surface perpendicular to the axis. Then when I place the top ring on I can make that thin if I want and you won't see any variation in thickness as you rotate the bowl.