My tips: 1. Turn down graphics settings if needed until you have a steady 90 fps at all times during a race (Nordschleife is an exception as this can be hard to achieve). 2. Turn down the traction control in cars that have it (starts at 100%, in most cars the optimal is 20-40%). 3. Use the launch control in cars that have it (notably WTCR and DTM2020). 4. Check the engine map and make sure it's at 5, some cars start with endurance maps by default (notably the P2 class). 5. Use OtterHUD if you can to get the radar on screen (turn off most other things as they can be distracting). If this is too heavy for your CPU, use CrewChief as a substitute.
Great tips, thank you 😃 I couldn’t live without the radar in RaceRoom. Whenever go over to iRacing, I really notice when it’s not there. I rely on it so much in every RaceRoom race I do.
That much TC? I'm instantly slower out of corners with TC at 20%, so I just leave it off. Also, with V-Sync, VRR (Freesync/G-sync), framerate limiting below monitor's max refresh rate, you don't need 90+ FPS. Even 58 FPS constant with these technologies is much smoother and as responsive than 90+ FPS without.
Nice one Chris ... My tip would be to not jump between different cars all the time. Get to really know the car you are going to drive ... The temptation is to drive all the cars the same way then be upset when they behave differently.
Yeah great shout. Actually, the same could be said for sims too. They all feel a bit different, and the more you switch between them, the less likely it is you’ll master any of them. I divide my time between RaceRoom, iRacing and ACC, and it does take some getting used to, each time you switch.
@@chrisrogerssimracing You're right there .. I go between AC, ACC and RaceRoom suffering the same ... Is there a Ranking Cap for Rookie races in RaceRoom? Hard to qualify well if up against "seal clubbers"
@@rustyshak1857 Sadly there’s not. And it’s even more difficult at the moment, because I think there are too many non-rookie servers to choose from. This means the entry lists are smaller, so a lot of the more experienced drivers are just entering rookie races instead - because there are more people on the grid in rookie races. Ideally, they would have just 1-2 rookie races with a rep/rating limit, then maybe another 3-4 advanced races for all other drivers to enter.
Cracking video Chris - and well done for really making progress in 2022, you’ve had some great drives on RaceRoom ranked in particular. Looking forward to more of these kinds of videos in the future!
Really good tipps Chris! Only thing i might add is that smoother is almost always faster. It might not look like it or feel like it but most times it is. I realised this way to late :D
Thanks Jerry, yeah you’re absolutely right. With the correct FOV, my cornering became so much smoother and it really helped my lap times come down. I was using RaceRoom for 12 months before I realised those FOV settings were there. Before that, I was just using the ‘camera up/down/left/right’ controls to adjust my view - not realising that it was making no difference to my field of view!
100%. When you’ve only got limited time to race, it’s always tempting to fire up your sim and just jump straight in to a race. But a good practice session first, to master your lines and braking points, will make all the difference. Thanks for watching 😃
POV: You're trying to get better at this game with a keyboard and mice, Good video BTW I knew I needed to mess around with my brake sensitivity settings but just couldn't find the sweet spot so that I don't lock'em up each and every time I brake💀. Hopefully now I'l' be able to drive and race better. thanks a lot brother.
Good tips there Chris!! I’ll probably have a look at the view settings again since it’s been a while and I also have gotten a new monitor since adjusting them last..
Thanks Walt, yeah I couldn’t believe what a difference the FOV made (combined with my eyes being a lot closer to the monitor!) You’ve got that lovely new ultra-wide monitor now haven’t you? Must be great for seeing more of the track.
Excellent advice Chris - one thing you could also try is to fine tune the brake pressure in Raceroom from car to car. I have the same pedals as you and a similar primary TM config (but not quite as severe, less pressure required to reach 100% braking), which I leave static, but depending on the car I wind back the brake pressure in the Raceroom car setup, usually only by 5 or 10% and this can make a big difference to the lock up threshold. One exception is the NSU where I have brake pressure at 80% (and bias 50/50). Good luck. Cheers!
Good shout Roz. So do you have that primary configuration in the Thrustmaster settings, and then do your fine-tuning per car actually in the sim? Or is there a way of switching between configs in the TM software? I did have my brake force at 80 which generally did the job ok, but I’ve just started with the Porsche Cup car in iRacing and that one is an absolute nightmare on the brakes! So I whacked up my overall setting to 90. But yeah, ideally I could drop it back to 80 and then fine-tune more specifically for the Porsche. Cheers 👍
@@chrisrogerssimracing Yes Chris, I have a primary setup in the TM config that I do not change, then I do the fine tuning per car in setup in Raceroom, changing the brake pressure for different cars. I'll take a look later and give you some examples. (I'll edit my original comment, I can see I was not 100% clear :)
Good tips. And additionally to tip three: Practice your race starts and don't rev up the engine too high before you put in the first gear (and don't jump start). From what you showed in your video you lost P1 because rev was way too high. I observe that problem in many races in RR, which lets me gain quite often one or two positions at the race start.
Good tip! Seem to remember with that start at Brands, I waited too long before shifting up to 2nd too, so was on the rev limiter. That didn’t help either. I’m still yet to master manual starts in RaceRoom. I don’t have confidence in the clutch - a couple of times, I’ve pressed the clutch down, engaged first and taken off… even with the clutch down! Probably an input issue, but it’s always put me off trying it in a ranked race. So at the moment I just shift from neutral to 1st when the lights go green. Not ideal!
@@chrisrogerssimracing "So at the moment I just shift from neutral to 1st when the lights go green." Exactly what I do. No problem with that! But from what I saw in your video here was, that you had the rev on max the moment you put in the first gear. In my opiniom, that is the problem with your start and loosing two positions. Try a fixed number below that. And try that serveral times in different races and you'll find a much better rev! In this video you drive the nice BMW M235i. Try and compare different revs below 7000. That helped me a lot in online ranked races to improve my start in comparsion to other drivers. Of cource the reaction time to put in the first gear and switchung to the next and the next gear is important, too. But at least from what I tried in the past, the rev is very important, too. I drove some ranked races with BMW M235i and Audi GT4s and both work with revs below 7000 much better than max rev (at least with my TC usage of 3 to 5). Perhaps the same applies to other cars in RR, too. But that's just a wild guess from my side, because currently I'm very limited in using cars in RR.
@@joevogt6804 Top man, thanks for taking the time to explain this. I’ll definitely do some practice on them this week. Good to know that clutch starts aren’t essential - I always assumed I was in the minority, bypassing the clutch and shifting to 1st on green instead! I haven’t practiced starts since I very first started in the sim, so it’s definitely long overdue to do some work on it. Cheers, will let you know how I get on! 👍
agree with both FOV and brake calibration. the first thing i would do would be to upgrade to load cell brake pedal. then play around with the calibration and see what gets you the fastest laps. after i upgraded from G29 pedals to T-LCM i immediately started to take chunks out of my fastest times for every track. it certainly was the single most effective change i made as far as lock ups i tend to just reduce the brake pressure to control them at the cost of losing a little maximum braking power. as you can set this for each individual car you aren't sacrificing anything from cars that do not need it and individually optimising the effectiveness of the brakes of cars that do
Yeah the T-LCMs were a game-changer for me. The wheel upgrade feels great, and has extra buttons, but it makes no difference to the way I drive. But the pedals were a completely different story… it’s difficult to explain, but it’s a combination of smooth and firm that makes it easier for me to apply and then ease of the brakes in a controlled matter. With the Logitech G920, I’d stamp on the brakes to brake hard, then lift completely when I was ready to turn into the corner. With the load cell, I find it easier to trail-brake. Probably should have mentioned that in the vid, but I ran out of time 😂
Great tips, I didn't know where these settings were in Raceroom. Another thing I do in iRacing (don't know if you can in Raceroom) is do 3 lap races in AI to learn how aggressive to be (and how aggressive not to be) in the beginning laps with traffic and cold tires. Cherrs!
Thanks John, yes you can do that in RaceRoom too. Must admit I’ve never taken full advantage of AI racing as a practice tool, but I really should - I imagine it gives you a much better all-round prep than endless hot-lapping
My pleasure, hope it’s useful! I’d never used it until someone commented on a video I’d done that my cockpit view / perspective seemed a little odd. Turns out, I’d just been zooming, rather than adjusting FOV! It’s much easier to see the corners coming up now!
Re the brakes, short calibrating is ok but then you're leaving some braking force unused. For example in a GT3 car they have very good race spec abs, so you want to be at 100% braking to get every bit of stopping power. By short calibrating you're not going to get this every time. A better option is to use the brake pressure setting in car setup, lower it for cars without abs and it makes them much harder to lockup (essentially the same effect as what you are doing), but then you can also keep those cars that need it on 100. The benefit of this method is that it's saved in setup per car, so you can have the best of both worlds. Power when you need it and not when you don't. Love the channel. Keep it up.
Thank you for this advice. Funnily enough, I started thinking that I may be better to do it on a car-by-car basis. I ramped up my overall pressure a bit more, having just bought the Porsche Cup car on iRacing which doesn’t have ABS. That helped with braking for that car, but now I’m having to apply even more pressure to the pedal to get 100% in the GT3 / GT4 on RaceRoom. So yeah, will definitely look at doing it this way instead now, thanks for sharing 😃
@@chrisrogerssimracing yeah iracing is a different kettle of fish, they have some very weird brake behaviour there hence why people set custom brake curves to avoid locking, even in cars that shouldn't. The abs in Raceroom however works very well so you really can give it everything.
I find it interesting that while I need to improve just as you did, I need a completely different set of changes to my approach, since I've been using what you're advising here for some time now. I have my FOV set up properly, I have my brake pedal adjusted and I am able to qualify pretty high, very likely quite a bit above my race pace, and avoid the first lap carnage. What I lack is consistency on longer distance - sometimes I just can't maintain a rhythm, control my pace and avoid mistakes. Usually if my race goes wrong, it's my own mistake somewhere into the race that causes it. Different challenges need different solutions. I probably just need to race more than I do and make it more of a habit, doing all things more or less right, but just not enough to make a consistent improvement. For example, you've got over 250 ranked races under your belt, while I have a meekly 36. So all in all, every journey is different, but it's always good to have a detailed reference point, so I appreciate the video.
Ahh yeah, 36 races is a relatively small number, so that consistency will certainly come, the more you do. I used to be exactly the same, I’d always make at least one big mistake in a 15-minute ranked race that would ultimately cost me loads of positions. If you haven’t already, I’d definitely recommend finding a community or league races to join. Often, they’ll host longer races (30, 45, 60-minute ones) and, once you get used to them, going back to 15-minute ranked races seems like a breeze. I found it really helpful when I started doing longer races in SCB - it’s doubly helpful, because you’re racing against people you know, so you can trust them more to be safe. And if you do make mistakes, it won’t harm your ranking at all. Good luck with the progress, keep me posted 👍
@@chrisrogerssimracing Funny you should mention that because I've got this partially covered. I've been focusing lately on longer races, targeting those featured ranked 40/60 min races and weekly events on Raceroom. Not every combo appeals to me though, I'm pretty picky in that regard. That doesn't help with finding a league either, but I keep an eye out. Keep those videos coming and you'll surely hear more from me.
nice video tip 3 is really a good one but it changes car to car you can do same settings in raceroom by changing upper dead zone car to tracks i change that setting a lot
Thanks for this! Yeah I’ve started to think about ways I can do this on a car-by-car basis, so I’ll give this a try. Will be much easier to find-tune it for each car. Thank you! 😃
to be honest it is better to learn how to break propaly than set it up to 80% because on some cars with abs it is better to push the break all the way to 100%
Definitely if you’re predominantly driving GT3s or cars with ABS, but I found this way really helped me as I hop around all types of cars with or without ABS too. Really helped me with muscle memory… having the pedal naturally stop at 80% with a standard push, but still knowing I can get that extra 20% with an extra hard push at the end, should I need it.
Thanks Jason. The wheel change didn’t make any actual difference to performance (it just felt better in my hands!) The pedals did make a big difference though… I’m still using the same braking points, so it’s not like it’s letting me brake later or anything. But because the pedal is firmer, and more responsive, it’s much easier to train your muscle memory and control the pressure applied. I’ve found it easier to slowly ease off the brake pedal as you enter the corner - with the Logitech, it was more a case of ‘brake hard, then lift off the brakes completely when you’re ready to turn in’. Trail-braking is much more intuitive with the load cell pedals. I’d definitely recommend the T-LCMs if you’re looking for an entry-level load cell upgrade 👍
@@chrisrogerssimracing Thanks Chris, I modded my G29 brake pedal to the truebrake system which made a huge difference to the default rubber block that comes as standard. Whilst not loadcell, it's stiff and very similar. Thank you again, always interesting to get information on upgrades to help with decisions in future, even though it's a 'feel' type thing, from a trusted source, it's invaluable.
@@fishsim9934 My pleasure. Whatever it is you’ve done, it’s clearly working because your improvement over the past few months has been incredible! Way more than mine.
Hi Chris. That was a very useful video - thanks for posting. I am with you re. qualifying higher up the grid. I spent a long time being bashed about at the back of grids on rookie Raceroom servers to the extent that I gave up racing online to practice more instead. Having returned online after a couple of months, I now start further up the grid (usually just inside the top 10), but it makes a huge difference to the start of each race, generally getting through the first corners without incidents. Also, I was interested in the rig you are using (2'.02"), which appears to be lightweight and with a small footprint, for those of us with limited space. Can I ask if this is what you are using: Next Level Racing Gt Lite Foldable Simulator Cockpit? If so, what do you think of it? Is it robust enough to withstand a serious amount of brake pressure, for example? I ask because I am thinking of changing my G29 pedals some time in the future, but currently they sit directly on my carpet, which would be no good for any load cell pedals that I am aware of.
Yes, space is tight for me. I have to use that desk as my work office in the daytimes during the week, so having a rig that’s quick and easy to set up is really important for me. It’s the Playseat Challenge I’m using, and it’s great. Folds flat with the wheel and pedals still attached, and stands upright next to my desk when I’m not using it. It would probably fit in a large cupboard easily too. I can always measure and send you some dimensions, if you were thinking of getting one. Generally it’s pretty robust and stable. If I brake REALLY hard, sometimes it will stand up on one end a bit! But I’ve never once felt like I was going to tip over or anything. I started with the G29 pedals too, but now have the Thrustmaster T-LCM load cell pedals on it. The pedals sit on a flat rest with sponge cushions to stop it sliding. You secure them with a Velcro strap and they hold pretty firm. The rest can be moved up or down too… I prefer to have the pedals at a bit more of an angle, so I pop a small wooden ramp underneath them to raise them up a bit.
Hey, yes there is. You can go into the car setups and play with the brake pressure individually. I think default is usually 95% but you can drop it to 80-85% for cars that lock up easily. For cars with full ABS, you can pretty much whack it up to 100%. Try a few different settings and see which works best for you. It’s actually a better way to do it, in the car settings, because you can make slight changes to each car. Good luck!
I still have no idea how Chris can drive without seeing the mirrors... Maybe that's just me, or maybe that's just Sim Racing, but watching the videos I feel so blind.
Yes, it seems strange at first but I’ve come to really depend on the on-screen radars… I now find these more helpful than mirrors, because there are no blind spots. But it takes a while to get used to it!
I have to say that I don't agree completely with the pedal calibration... or it wasn't clear in the video. While you shouldn't get to 100% by mistake, it should come natural. Especially on high downforce cars without ABS (think F1) it's critical to be able to apply both the maximum amount of braking force at high speed as well as staying well away in slow sections.
Yeah I think we both mean the same thing, just explained in different ways! I can still easily reach 100%, but it requires that extra bit of force, than it did before my calibration changes. My natural press of the pedal gets me to 80% accurately. If it’s a heavy braking area, I can press down an extra bit harder to start braking in the 80-100% range. So effectively, I choose when I need full braking - rather than it being a lottery, or braking too hard by mistake.
My tips:
1. Turn down graphics settings if needed until you have a steady 90 fps at all times during a race (Nordschleife is an exception as this can be hard to achieve).
2. Turn down the traction control in cars that have it (starts at 100%, in most cars the optimal is 20-40%).
3. Use the launch control in cars that have it (notably WTCR and DTM2020).
4. Check the engine map and make sure it's at 5, some cars start with endurance maps by default (notably the P2 class).
5. Use OtterHUD if you can to get the radar on screen (turn off most other things as they can be distracting). If this is too heavy for your CPU, use CrewChief as a substitute.
Great tips, thank you 😃 I couldn’t live without the radar in RaceRoom. Whenever go over to iRacing, I really notice when it’s not there. I rely on it so much in every RaceRoom race I do.
That much TC? I'm instantly slower out of corners with TC at 20%, so I just leave it off.
Also, with V-Sync, VRR (Freesync/G-sync), framerate limiting below monitor's max refresh rate, you don't need 90+ FPS. Even 58 FPS constant with these technologies is much smoother and as responsive than 90+ FPS without.
Hey mate I can’t seem to get crew chief to down load but would love to use it! Any tips?
Nice one Chris ... My tip would be to not jump between different cars all the time. Get to really know the car you are going to drive ... The temptation is to drive all the cars the same way then be upset when they behave differently.
Yeah great shout. Actually, the same could be said for sims too. They all feel a bit different, and the more you switch between them, the less likely it is you’ll master any of them. I divide my time between RaceRoom, iRacing and ACC, and it does take some getting used to, each time you switch.
@@chrisrogerssimracing You're right there .. I go between AC, ACC and RaceRoom suffering the same ... Is there a Ranking Cap for Rookie races in RaceRoom? Hard to qualify well if up against "seal clubbers"
@@rustyshak1857 Sadly there’s not. And it’s even more difficult at the moment, because I think there are too many non-rookie servers to choose from. This means the entry lists are smaller, so a lot of the more experienced drivers are just entering rookie races instead - because there are more people on the grid in rookie races. Ideally, they would have just 1-2 rookie races with a rep/rating limit, then maybe another 3-4 advanced races for all other drivers to enter.
I really like to use my TrackIRv5 head tracking too. Nice vid! Thanx!
Cracking video Chris - and well done for really making progress in 2022, you’ve had some great drives on RaceRoom ranked in particular. Looking forward to more of these kinds of videos in the future!
Really good tipps Chris! Only thing i might add is that smoother is almost always faster. It might not look like it or feel like it but most times it is. I realised this way to late :D
Thanks Jerry, yeah you’re absolutely right. With the correct FOV, my cornering became so much smoother and it really helped my lap times come down. I was using RaceRoom for 12 months before I realised those FOV settings were there. Before that, I was just using the ‘camera up/down/left/right’ controls to adjust my view - not realising that it was making no difference to my field of view!
You make everything sound so exciting :) Nice one
Thank you! Really appreciate the kind words 😃
Great video Chris as always. The key for me is practice and practice of learning the track and the braking points
100%. When you’ve only got limited time to race, it’s always tempting to fire up your sim and just jump straight in to a race. But a good practice session first, to master your lines and braking points, will make all the difference. Thanks for watching 😃
Cheers Chris good info
POV: You're trying to get better at this game with a keyboard and mice, Good video BTW I knew I needed to mess around with my brake sensitivity settings but just couldn't find the sweet spot so that I don't lock'em up each and every time I brake💀. Hopefully now I'l' be able to drive and race better. thanks a lot brother.
Good tips there Chris!! I’ll probably have a look at the view settings again since it’s been a while and I also have gotten a new monitor since adjusting them last..
Thanks Walt, yeah I couldn’t believe what a difference the FOV made (combined with my eyes being a lot closer to the monitor!) You’ve got that lovely new ultra-wide monitor now haven’t you? Must be great for seeing more of the track.
Excellent advice Chris - one thing you could also try is to fine tune the brake pressure in Raceroom from car to car. I have the same pedals as you and a similar primary TM config (but not quite as severe, less pressure required to reach 100% braking), which I leave static, but depending on the car I wind back the brake pressure in the Raceroom car setup, usually only by 5 or 10% and this can make a big difference to the lock up threshold. One exception is the NSU where I have brake pressure at 80% (and bias 50/50). Good luck. Cheers!
Good shout Roz. So do you have that primary configuration in the Thrustmaster settings, and then do your fine-tuning per car actually in the sim? Or is there a way of switching between configs in the TM software? I did have my brake force at 80 which generally did the job ok, but I’ve just started with the Porsche Cup car in iRacing and that one is an absolute nightmare on the brakes! So I whacked up my overall setting to 90. But yeah, ideally I could drop it back to 80 and then fine-tune more specifically for the Porsche. Cheers 👍
@@chrisrogerssimracing Yes Chris, I have a primary setup in the TM config that I do not change, then I do the fine tuning per car in setup in Raceroom, changing the brake pressure for different cars. I'll take a look later and give you some examples. (I'll edit my original comment, I can see I was not 100% clear :)
Good tips. And additionally to tip three: Practice your race starts and don't rev up the engine too high before you put in the first gear (and don't jump start). From what you showed in your video you lost P1 because rev was way too high. I observe that problem in many races in RR, which lets me gain quite often one or two positions at the race start.
Good tip! Seem to remember with that start at Brands, I waited too long before shifting up to 2nd too, so was on the rev limiter. That didn’t help either. I’m still yet to master manual starts in RaceRoom. I don’t have confidence in the clutch - a couple of times, I’ve pressed the clutch down, engaged first and taken off… even with the clutch down! Probably an input issue, but it’s always put me off trying it in a ranked race. So at the moment I just shift from neutral to 1st when the lights go green. Not ideal!
@@chrisrogerssimracing "So at the moment I just shift from neutral to 1st when the lights go green." Exactly what I do. No problem with that! But from what I saw in your video here was, that you had the rev on max the moment you put in the first gear. In my opiniom, that is the problem with your start and loosing two positions. Try a fixed number below that. And try that serveral times in different races and you'll find a much better rev! In this video you drive the nice BMW M235i. Try and compare different revs below 7000. That helped me a lot in online ranked races to improve my start in comparsion to other drivers. Of cource the reaction time to put in the first gear and switchung to the next and the next gear is important, too. But at least from what I tried in the past, the rev is very important, too. I drove some ranked races with BMW M235i and Audi GT4s and both work with revs below 7000 much better than max rev (at least with my TC usage of 3 to 5). Perhaps the same applies to other cars in RR, too. But that's just a wild guess from my side, because currently I'm very limited in using cars in RR.
@@joevogt6804 Top man, thanks for taking the time to explain this. I’ll definitely do some practice on them this week. Good to know that clutch starts aren’t essential - I always assumed I was in the minority, bypassing the clutch and shifting to 1st on green instead! I haven’t practiced starts since I very first started in the sim, so it’s definitely long overdue to do some work on it. Cheers, will let you know how I get on! 👍
agree with both FOV and brake calibration. the first thing i would do would be to upgrade to load cell brake pedal. then play around with the calibration and see what gets you the fastest laps. after i upgraded from G29 pedals to T-LCM i immediately started to take chunks out of my fastest times for every track. it certainly was the single most effective change i made
as far as lock ups i tend to just reduce the brake pressure to control them at the cost of losing a little maximum braking power. as you can set this for each individual car you aren't sacrificing anything from cars that do not need it and individually optimising the effectiveness of the brakes of cars that do
Yeah the T-LCMs were a game-changer for me. The wheel upgrade feels great, and has extra buttons, but it makes no difference to the way I drive. But the pedals were a completely different story… it’s difficult to explain, but it’s a combination of smooth and firm that makes it easier for me to apply and then ease of the brakes in a controlled matter. With the Logitech G920, I’d stamp on the brakes to brake hard, then lift completely when I was ready to turn into the corner. With the load cell, I find it easier to trail-brake. Probably should have mentioned that in the vid, but I ran out of time 😂
Great tips, I didn't know where these settings were in Raceroom. Another thing I do in iRacing (don't know if you can in Raceroom) is do 3 lap races in AI to learn how aggressive to be (and how aggressive not to be) in the beginning laps with traffic and cold tires. Cherrs!
Thanks John, yes you can do that in RaceRoom too. Must admit I’ve never taken full advantage of AI racing as a practice tool, but I really should - I imagine it gives you a much better all-round prep than endless hot-lapping
Love the tips, will definitely try changing my FOV!
My pleasure, hope it’s useful! I’d never used it until someone commented on a video I’d done that my cockpit view / perspective seemed a little odd. Turns out, I’d just been zooming, rather than adjusting FOV! It’s much easier to see the corners coming up now!
Re the brakes, short calibrating is ok but then you're leaving some braking force unused. For example in a GT3 car they have very good race spec abs, so you want to be at 100% braking to get every bit of stopping power. By short calibrating you're not going to get this every time. A better option is to use the brake pressure setting in car setup, lower it for cars without abs and it makes them much harder to lockup (essentially the same effect as what you are doing), but then you can also keep those cars that need it on 100. The benefit of this method is that it's saved in setup per car, so you can have the best of both worlds. Power when you need it and not when you don't. Love the channel. Keep it up.
Thank you for this advice. Funnily enough, I started thinking that I may be better to do it on a car-by-car basis. I ramped up my overall pressure a bit more, having just bought the Porsche Cup car on iRacing which doesn’t have ABS. That helped with braking for that car, but now I’m having to apply even more pressure to the pedal to get 100% in the GT3 / GT4 on RaceRoom. So yeah, will definitely look at doing it this way instead now, thanks for sharing 😃
@@chrisrogerssimracing yeah iracing is a different kettle of fish, they have some very weird brake behaviour there hence why people set custom brake curves to avoid locking, even in cars that shouldn't. The abs in Raceroom however works very well so you really can give it everything.
I liek your energy, subbed
Hey, thanks for the sub, appreciate it 😃
I find it interesting that while I need to improve just as you did, I need a completely different set of changes to my approach, since I've been using what you're advising here for some time now. I have my FOV set up properly, I have my brake pedal adjusted and I am able to qualify pretty high, very likely quite a bit above my race pace, and avoid the first lap carnage. What I lack is consistency on longer distance - sometimes I just can't maintain a rhythm, control my pace and avoid mistakes. Usually if my race goes wrong, it's my own mistake somewhere into the race that causes it. Different challenges need different solutions. I probably just need to race more than I do and make it more of a habit, doing all things more or less right, but just not enough to make a consistent improvement. For example, you've got over 250 ranked races under your belt, while I have a meekly 36.
So all in all, every journey is different, but it's always good to have a detailed reference point, so I appreciate the video.
Ahh yeah, 36 races is a relatively small number, so that consistency will certainly come, the more you do. I used to be exactly the same, I’d always make at least one big mistake in a 15-minute ranked race that would ultimately cost me loads of positions. If you haven’t already, I’d definitely recommend finding a community or league races to join. Often, they’ll host longer races (30, 45, 60-minute ones) and, once you get used to them, going back to 15-minute ranked races seems like a breeze. I found it really helpful when I started doing longer races in SCB - it’s doubly helpful, because you’re racing against people you know, so you can trust them more to be safe. And if you do make mistakes, it won’t harm your ranking at all. Good luck with the progress, keep me posted 👍
@@chrisrogerssimracing Funny you should mention that because I've got this partially covered. I've been focusing lately on longer races, targeting those featured ranked 40/60 min races and weekly events on Raceroom. Not every combo appeals to me though, I'm pretty picky in that regard. That doesn't help with finding a league either, but I keep an eye out. Keep those videos coming and you'll surely hear more from me.
Very good high quality Video, helped me alot, subbed to your Channel ;D
That’s great to hear :) Thanks for the kind words and the sub, and happy my video has been a help for you 😃
nice video tip 3 is really a good one but it changes car to car you can do same settings in raceroom by changing upper dead zone car to tracks i change that setting a lot
Thanks for this! Yeah I’ve started to think about ways I can do this on a car-by-car basis, so I’ll give this a try. Will be much easier to find-tune it for each car. Thank you! 😃
Nice video, thanks
My pleasure Ralph, they’re pretty simple suggestions and probably more helpful to newer RaceRoomers, but hope it helps 😃
to be honest it is better to learn how to break propaly than set it up to 80% because on some cars with abs it is better to push the break all the way to 100%
Definitely if you’re predominantly driving GT3s or cars with ABS, but I found this way really helped me as I hop around all types of cars with or without ABS too. Really helped me with muscle memory… having the pedal naturally stop at 80% with a standard push, but still knowing I can get that extra 20% with an extra hard push at the end, should I need it.
Chris, another excellent video, what differences did you find going from Logitech to Thrustmaster ?
Thanks Jason. The wheel change didn’t make any actual difference to performance (it just felt better in my hands!) The pedals did make a big difference though… I’m still using the same braking points, so it’s not like it’s letting me brake later or anything. But because the pedal is firmer, and more responsive, it’s much easier to train your muscle memory and control the pressure applied. I’ve found it easier to slowly ease off the brake pedal as you enter the corner - with the Logitech, it was more a case of ‘brake hard, then lift off the brakes completely when you’re ready to turn in’. Trail-braking is much more intuitive with the load cell pedals. I’d definitely recommend the T-LCMs if you’re looking for an entry-level load cell upgrade 👍
@@chrisrogerssimracing Thanks Chris, I modded my G29 brake pedal to the truebrake system which made a huge difference to the default rubber block that comes as standard. Whilst not loadcell, it's stiff and very similar. Thank you again, always interesting to get information on upgrades to help with decisions in future, even though it's a 'feel' type thing, from a trusted source, it's invaluable.
@@fishsim9934 My pleasure. Whatever it is you’ve done, it’s clearly working because your improvement over the past few months has been incredible! Way more than mine.
Hi Chris. That was a very useful video - thanks for posting. I am with you re. qualifying higher up the grid. I spent a long time being bashed about at the back of grids on rookie Raceroom servers to the extent that I gave up racing online to practice more instead. Having returned online after a couple of months, I now start further up the grid (usually just inside the top 10), but it makes a huge difference to the start of each race, generally getting through the first corners without incidents. Also, I was interested in the rig you are using (2'.02"), which appears to be lightweight and with a small footprint, for those of us with limited space. Can I ask if this is what you are using: Next Level Racing Gt Lite Foldable Simulator Cockpit? If so, what do you think of it? Is it robust enough to withstand a serious amount of brake pressure, for example? I ask because I am thinking of changing my G29 pedals some time in the future, but currently they sit directly on my carpet, which would be no good for any load cell pedals that I am aware of.
Yes, space is tight for me. I have to use that desk as my work office in the daytimes during the week, so having a rig that’s quick and easy to set up is really important for me. It’s the Playseat Challenge I’m using, and it’s great. Folds flat with the wheel and pedals still attached, and stands upright next to my desk when I’m not using it. It would probably fit in a large cupboard easily too. I can always measure and send you some dimensions, if you were thinking of getting one. Generally it’s pretty robust and stable. If I brake REALLY hard, sometimes it will stand up on one end a bit! But I’ve never once felt like I was going to tip over or anything. I started with the G29 pedals too, but now have the Thrustmaster T-LCM load cell pedals on it. The pedals sit on a flat rest with sponge cushions to stop it sliding. You secure them with a Velcro strap and they hold pretty firm. The rest can be moved up or down too… I prefer to have the pedals at a bit more of an angle, so I pop a small wooden ramp underneath them to raise them up a bit.
@@chrisrogerssimracing thanks very much for that. I will have a look at the Playseat Challenge - it sounds ideal. 🙂
I'm unable to recalibrate my brake pedal on a thrustmaster tmx (default pedals btw) so is there any alternative?
Hey, yes there is. You can go into the car setups and play with the brake pressure individually. I think default is usually 95% but you can drop it to 80-85% for cars that lock up easily. For cars with full ABS, you can pretty much whack it up to 100%. Try a few different settings and see which works best for you. It’s actually a better way to do it, in the car settings, because you can make slight changes to each car. Good luck!
thank you!
That 60cm from the gaming chair head rest or from eye to screen?
Yeah, I try to make the 60cm from my eyes to the screen 👍
@@chrisrogerssimracing appreciate the upload and fast reply 👍
I still have no idea how Chris can drive without seeing the mirrors... Maybe that's just me, or maybe that's just Sim Racing, but watching the videos I feel so blind.
Yes, it seems strange at first but I’ve come to really depend on the on-screen radars… I now find these more helpful than mirrors, because there are no blind spots. But it takes a while to get used to it!
I have to say that I don't agree completely with the pedal calibration... or it wasn't clear in the video. While you shouldn't get to 100% by mistake, it should come natural. Especially on high downforce cars without ABS (think F1) it's critical to be able to apply both the maximum amount of braking force at high speed as well as staying well away in slow sections.
Yeah I think we both mean the same thing, just explained in different ways! I can still easily reach 100%, but it requires that extra bit of force, than it did before my calibration changes. My natural press of the pedal gets me to 80% accurately. If it’s a heavy braking area, I can press down an extra bit harder to start braking in the 80-100% range. So effectively, I choose when I need full braking - rather than it being a lottery, or braking too hard by mistake.
Full advantage of gamma Ray's LMAO. Dude
#0 Buy a wheel