I just bought my first wheel (G920 mainly for Nascar console) games but I’ve tried the Rfactor2 demo. I’m horrendous at that but, I have noticed a small improvement while driving the same track over & over lol no matter how many times I miss the corner or spin out, it’s still fun
@@aoplinger622 Thats a YOUR problem. Most people dont care. Iam still playing, never won any race. Its fun learn from others people, Driving better than before...
Joining a beginner friendly league is what helped me a lot. It forced me to focus on a specific car and learn new tracks by the week. When I got started with ACC 1:44 on Kyalami was a "perfect" lap accodring to my then abilities, now about 6 months later anything above a 1:41.0 is a let down in qualy, racing with people of a similiar skill level also really improved my racecraft a ton.
I did the same. Being stuck in just one (semi-memey) car and having a week to practice a new track has really helped a ton. And the racing is an absolute blast... Well, as long as you don't get collected in the accidents. Having practiced the tracks, looked at some in-depth track guides and fiddled a bit with the setup, i usually end up getting around 4-5 seconds off the time i used to consider "best" i could do.
This was such a great overall guide. I actually used this to add some minute adjustments to my current setup and I could immediately feel the difference in the level of information provided through the wheel. Such a great guide that I just had to share it with my Discord community. Thanks for sharing your knowledge m8.
Righto here we Go Go GO‼️🏁 First of all, it’s great to listen to a fellow AUSSIE accent Oi 👍🏻. I’m a newbie to gaming 🕹️ in general at the rip ol age of 60 (the new 14 🤪🙄). What’s started with a recent Xmas gift “Oculus 2 VR set” that’s got me researching the mind blowing world of electronic games ((🤯)) looks like so much fun! I’m retired with a couple of mature age physical limitations but that ain’t gunna stop me! I own a 1969 Pontiac GP 455 stroker (noice), I can tell you playing ACC will most definitely be lighter on fuel ⛽️ costs 😂. I’m dipping my toes in Sim racing and purchased a budget Thrustmaster TMX steering wheel & a two pedal set + Wreckfest, BeamNG & ACC to start me off. Also having a semi limited budget I will build my own DIY Sim Rig to satisfy my needs. I am glad the universe has crossed our paths and looking forward to learning more from you & your channel. Cheers from the Westside 🏁🤝🏻🇦🇺
What are you practicing for...hotlapping and time Trial, or racing? If your practicing to race, it's crucial to practice racing with other cars on track. Braking distances in a slip stream with a full tank and cold tires change everything. Too many people only practicing hotlapping is why public lobbies always have crashes on turn 1.
Great guide! :) The "perfect line" depends on what comes next. Short straight after, you're right. For a long straight after, brake later and harder, go deeper and turn sharper. You hit mid-corner slower, but in effect make the rest of the corner more open( this pushes the apex further around the corner), making a straighter exit with more speed coming onto the straight.
As a sim racing beginner, I've watched hundreds of hours of youtube videos on the subject... and THIS video has been the most beneficial one yet. I'm anxious to watch more of your videos to see your suggestions on tracks, cars, programs, and hardware. THANK YOU for making this wonderful video.
The Meaningful Practice chapter is pure gold! If you glossed over this video, at least follow this part of the guide. Learning how to practice and race with other cars will lead you to the other areas you half listened to. Ermin is definitely on point with this guide, especially the practice section. Great work, Mr Hamsandwich!
I was quite surprised by how well my NLR 2.0 stand stood up to my new 25nm Simucube 2 wheel! It's been rock solid. The most flex has been in the pedal tray, with a VNM Lite load cell brake attached, but it's not too bad. Thought about getting the full GT Track expansion but a Simlab Evo + entry level seat is close to the same price of the whole NLR rig and will provide more expansion options and rigidity. Just gotta resell this stand when it comes time for it.
This is a great video, it really encompasses the basics required for newcomers into sim racing. I liked that you mentioned meaningful practice and car setups. When I was brand new, messing with the car setup was daunting. But its important that with good research, its okay to mess around and learn how those adjustments affect car handling.
As someone who's just getting into sim racing this was very helpful especially since I have a g920 and just bought AC. Haven't checked out the rest of your videos but an updated one would be cool. For sure have a new subscriber
8:40 Dirt Rally 2.0 actually has the so called "Soft Lock" feature which basically does the same as what ACC does out of the box - adjusts the steering lock on per car basis. For example classic cars would have 900 degrees while modern ones would have 540 automatically if you enable this feature. One caveat is that it requires in game calibration before it allows you to enable it. Otherwise great, informative video, keep this up! 🙂
I'm sticking with my Audi R8 V10 Plus road car for the time being in AC on the Monza track. It's been super fun and the upgrade to DD was worth every penny.
1. Rig, check. 2. Pedals/ brake, check. But not load cell can't afford that. 3. Force Feedback dialed in with my Moza R5, check. 4. Steer Lock, check. 5.FOV set, check. 6. Car Setup will have to figure out. 7. Practice, practice, practice. Thanks, Ermz!
I've mentioned in the past but to no avail because many sim racers are too bone idle to put in the effort that one great way to maximise your ability is to take advantage of the sim by setting everything beyond what you are comfortable with where the car wants to oversteer in every situation. After a lot of frustration, slowly but surely over time a driver will get much, much better and will be doing the right things without realising it. This is absolutely essential. Ever wondered why Max Verstappen is so good? His dad used to send him out on slicks in the wet in a kart.
0Such a very well put together informative video. All the different car setups, explanations of driving lines in corners & general no nonsense facts for me have been so good. It has been even more helpful to me as I have been practising on the Brand Hatch circuit. Incidently I live just 25 miles from the Circuit.
Thanks ermin By adapting to some your ffb settings and changing from 900degrrw wheel lock to 640 on the Merc AMG straight away I was shaving time of my best oulton park times . Thank for the useful video keep them coming
Thank you so much for the cool video! I've known you since the days of your cool work with sound (I work in the field of sound engineering myself). And now I found out very expectedly that you still know a lot about simracing. I recently purchased a Fanatec DD + McLaren V2 and train intensively. In this video, you touched on the aspects of customization in incredible detail for me. I could not understand why it was so difficult for me to drive some cars in the ACC, despite the fact that they are praised, I had one-on-one as in your video, the rear axle of the car was demolished and there were other problems with handling. Now you've clarified everything, for which I wanted to say a big thank you!!! The video is very informative and you perfectly explain everything in it.
My setup has flex. Wonderful, glorious flex! Its stiff enough to give me more details from my wheelbase, but it flexes just enough to let me feel the FFB fighting against my arms, through my pedals. Its amazing! I'm using a GTOmega Apex wheelstand. And I tethered my chair in place with a cargo strap. Good stuff!
simply put this video should be required viewing for new comers to sim racing... concise information that will lead to improvements in any aspiring sim racers skill set. 26 minuets of great advice.
The most important thing I learned in racing was patience. I soon stepped above the players who aren’t happy with being overtaken and was racing with people with awareness who would yield positions when they cut the track and wouldn’t rage-ram on the last corner. Get your ratings up kings.
Pro advice: when investing into an aluminium frame do not count on saving by taking a seat from a scrapyard. It will freakin stink but you will find that only when you're at home. Cheap (and clean) bucket will be much lighter and immersive
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. I’ve wanted to get into driving since I was a kid. But I don’t want to spend the money it takes to race for real. Car problems, maintenance, waiting in line to race. I don’t want to give that much of my time. But aim racing sounds like a great compromise for me. Money wise, a solid mid-tier set up is a fraction of what even a low end track car costs. Spending $1k+ sounds crazy to people just to ‘play a game’. But that’s cheap in relation to irl racing.
Dirt Rally 2 does have steering lock auto adjustment, the option for it is hidden in the menus, but it is 100% in the game. It was also in Dirt Rally 1 as well.
Although a pedal upgrade is important, I would consider a TV or monitor upgrade far more essential. It also benefits everything else you do with your PC or console as a bonus.
Not essential to pure performance -- though maybe for enjoyment and immersion. You stick a pro sim racer on a 60hz 24" entry level walmart monitor and they'll blow us plebs out of the water, even if we have a $3,000 triple screen Samsung G7 holy grail setup.
I just want to throw this out there for the guys thinking that they need expensive setups to be fast, and therefore get discouraged. I was huge into sim racing from the early 2000s until 2016 and held many lap time/TT world records in various sims, and I did it all on a Logitech Driving Force GT with the stock pedals and no assists in game. Don't think you can't be fast with a cheap hardware setup. In fact, I have never raced a sim with a nice setup-maybe I'd be world champion if I did ;)
Thank you for this video. For reference this was the first vid of yours I've watched. Truth be told I was on TH-cam for the exact reason you started this video with. Man do I suck, and I was feeling really down on myself tonight. But then I found this video and by the end of it you really made me feel better. It feels like I have a purpose to keep racing again. A new fire to continue practicing, and practicing with a purpose. Thanks again, I'm off to rinse, lather, repeat.
It seems weird to think of it like that though. If that's true then the gain would be universal across all wheel bases since it's digital signal clipping before output, in which case the games signal should have a compressor or have a much lower limit so it doesn't clip. I suppose it makes sense, they just let you boost the shit out of the signal until it's almost always clipping, which is really stupid. Either way having your wheel set up like that makes it unnaturally heavy.
I’m fine with the Logitech wheel but would like better pedals. Trail braking is a lot harder and I set my max force a few ticks low to not lock up. I’m happy with a basic “Playseat” setup. It will take a big person too.
Great content mate, my setup is nothing more than a ps4 and assetto corsa with a g923 wheel, can't wait to get a pc and play assetto corsa competizone, but for now if you compare my first lap a few months ago on the Nordschleife with the 919 it highly reflects my progress onto what ive done with a ferrari 488 gt3 car, will make sure to give the 919 another attempt soon and setup wise im getting soooo much better, Nordschleife is a great place to learn that
subscribed...not even brought a wheel yet, looking at the G923, gonna be far more technical than expected, looking forward to trying it...thanks for the help, very informative vid...
Really should not underestimate the playseat challenge, i would even regard it better then the normal models because of having no pole in the middle. I have CSL loadcell pedals and a CSW V2.5 on there without issue, i did put a wood block between the desk and base so it doesnt move around so much. I can even do long races, got a p2 in a league race of 1,5 hours in ACC. Although a firm cockpit will always be better.
Still wouldn't want to run anything higher than 8nm DD on one of those -- It's perfect for entry level fanatec or belt driven wheels though, if that's all someone plans to use on one. For the same price, you can get a NLR 2.0 stand that'll handle a 25nm wheelbase + load cell with ease -- Just gotta use a (more comfortable) office chair.
i showed my friend who is a pretty good driver me going around spa in the f2004 and he gave me some tips like sending it more as i was hitting inner curbs quite alot and to not slow down too much in turn 11
I had the same problem. If you want a simple budget solution heres what i did. At the hardware store I bought some packs of rubber chair pads and stuck 1 under each wheel. They look like small circles with raised edges and are meant to stop scratching the floor but i found that while sitting on them the wheels dont move at all so it totally solved my problem
@@PGMT22 If your chair has casters they can be replaced with feet that fit in the same socket. They're about a tenner on Amazon for a set of five. Easy to take on/off so you needn't lose the mobility of your chair.
100% agree. I built my DIY (built, not bought) Steel full motion rig. Welded. Solid. Loadcell VR and EPIC! Just subscribe to your channel my friend! actually went the same route as you described here! Kudos from Mississippi USA! DMAX Motion Sim Ch
Great video besides one part - FOV. You explained FOV well and were on the right path with the suggestion of the FOV calculator, but you killed it when you failed to mention that the 'correct' FOV doesn't always work for everyone. A lot of people use 'incorrect' FOV because they're comfortable with their settings. For example, I use between 60-67 FOV on my 24" 1080p monitor because I can see everything, however on my 34" UW I use something like 54 FOV, because I can see pretty much the same amount of information, but not so much of the interior. There is no truly correct FOV, it comes down to what you're comfortable running, and if you're one of those people that can comfortably run warp speed 75+, so be it. Don't let elitists/purists tell you otherwise, who cares what they think.
First thing in the video is getting me to spend more money :( I'll stick with my G29 + shifter setup on my table for now (I use 3D printed office chair wheel stoppers to get my chair to stop moving lmao), I play other games not just racing sims so it's not worth for me to invest my limited income into a single game. The driving tips are useful though, so thanks for that.
Great vid. I have one comment on your FFB advice. For lower end wheels you spoke about linearity of FFB but not really about clipping. Unless I misunderstood you...you sound like clipping is more of an issue with DD wheels. Clipping is a killer for low end wheels as it is extremally easy to get due to limited amount of strength of the motors. I'm not sure if it's a good analogy but I like to think about the clipping as water overflowing a funnel when you are pouring it into a bottle. Funnel being your wheel base motor in this example and water being your ffb signal strength: with lower grade wheels you have small funnel so you have to pour controlled. smaller amount of water through it to avoid overflowing (clipping). DD wheels with their 15 -20+ NM of torque can take much more water flow at any given time so it is much more difficult to "overflow" them in my example. In my experience it's easier to get my hands destroyed than to clip FFB on DD wheel. Dirt Rally has Soft lock setting which enable software controlled wheel lock. In ACC for some reason I have failed to achieve that feature. I tried multiple times setting both wheel and in game to 900 degrees of rotation, and then I get into McLaren and the wheel turns 900 degrees... So for the time being I am adjusting manually on a car to car basis. Not a big deal but slightly annoying for sure :D
That's not how clipping of a digital signal works. He's right, it's like an audio waveform... sort of. Very similar. In audio there's digital signal clipping before the output, and then physical speaker clipping if the gain is too high. In case A, it doesn't matter what speakers you use, the signal is clipped, you will get clipping. The signal has to be turned down before output send. In case B, technically it would go into ohms and resistances, but fuck trying to explain all that. Let's just say it's more like pumping a clean audio signal at high volume through small speakers that can't handle it and they blow. The speakers (or the amp they're plugged into) need to be down to get the clean signal and not overdrive. In the case of cheaper wheels like the Logitech, it's probably both. For direct drive, the assumption is that the "speakers" will handle any volume, as long as it's receiving a clean signal.
@@JZStudiosonline Fair enough. I knew my analogy was not the best. So thanks for confirming that. But I think end result in both is the same...loss of signal. I know that ffb signal is not spilli g..its simply lost. My main problem with his video is that he talks about clipping in relation to dd wheels while dd wheels are less prone to clipping in the first place. As you said direct drives can take the powah. Low end wheels...have their limitations kick in much sooner. And by limitations I mean clipping.
Awesome video mate! Totally related to the topic of testing for hours to learn new things when we drive on the Sim, that's exactly what I do almost every day 😀 thanks for the video!
Just a thought from me, if you are handy enough, design and assemble your own aluminium extrusion rig (some companies have design tools and/or will cut it to custom lengths for you). It will likely be a similar price to a next-level racing rig or slightly cheaper but will be future-proofed and much more rigid. Do research before that though! Great vid.
first time I ever loaded up project cars I quit and didn’t return for like a year. I know setups aren’t vital but dont have a good enough understanding of everything to really know what I’m doing
I played with a car enthousiast friend who got this game like 2 days ago. I don’t know much about cars but I’ve played assetto for a month or two now, he absolutely destroyed me after about a day of learning the controls 💀
Aluminium Rig ist cheaper than your cockpit (at least my quick google search was 500€). Self constructed with triple screen mount i paid under 400€ (without seat)for it and its solid as rock. Dont waste money and go straight to aluminium extrusion Rig, if you have the space!
The car set up does find time for sure, although I feel it should be pointed out that the driver already needs to be highly competent and know how to extract everything from the car, no set up will automatically find you time.
if it fixes an obvious issue you struggle with, then it will likely affect your laptimes and/or consistency in a race no matter if you're high skilled or average
It depends really,if you take a setup that someone else is quick with,but it doesn’t suit you,you may even get worse. However if you take one that suits you,it’ll allow you to be more confident. Which automatically brings improvement
I definitely think I have watched this before. But as I am hold up in my bedroom w COVID and without my rig I am watching again. Great video indeed. Two things of interest you did not touch on was first the FFB section you did not mention where you set the baseline FFB of your wheel base. In game you mentioned 40-60% gain. Second I did not hear any mention of the long time lesson of looking to where you want to be next on track not at what is right in front of you. To look ahead.
Your trail braking example, it all happens so fast, what it actually ends up looking like is simply coming off the brake gradually rather than being an all or nothing. What it looks like to a complete novice - ergo me - is more like you're balancing the car gently pre-to-mid corner, rather than forcing a kangaroo type motion of the overall/general chassis and just upsetting everything (suspension, tyres etc)?
Did you skip leg day for 10 years? 130 kilos of force is not much at all from a leg/foot. 4:20 the sweet spot is based on personal preference not the wheel itself...
i am not terribly slow luckily, i have track experience in real life and it transfers quite well back and forth, but my problem now is i was quick in iRacing, went to ACC for a week, got quick in ACC and came back to iRacing and i'm extremely slow bc they feel worlds away, with less detail in iRacing than i originally thought
The most important thing I've learned in just 6 months of sim-racing is focusing on enjoyment and be patient about performance/speed improvements.
I just bought my first wheel (G920 mainly for Nascar console) games but I’ve tried the Rfactor2 demo. I’m horrendous at that but, I have noticed a small improvement while driving the same track over & over lol no matter how many times I miss the corner or spin out, it’s still fun
how can u enjoy playing if u mess up/lose every time
@@phoenixwright1749 Learning is fun. If you like cars and driving. You dont care about winnings.
@@nicolasoliveira4903 when you are competitive as fuck at everything you do and have grown up racing dirt bikes, it’s hard to have fun losing
@@aoplinger622 Thats a YOUR problem. Most people dont care. Iam still playing, never won any race. Its fun learn from others people, Driving better than before...
Joining a beginner friendly league is what helped me a lot. It forced me to focus on a specific car and learn new tracks by the week. When I got started with ACC 1:44 on Kyalami was a "perfect" lap accodring to my then abilities, now about 6 months later anything above a 1:41.0 is a let down in qualy, racing with people of a similiar skill level also really improved my racecraft a ton.
noice
What league did you join
@@DINOzye RCI had a rookie league for ACC back then, now they do it via an evaluation event to sort you in with people around the same pace.
I did the same. Being stuck in just one (semi-memey) car and having a week to practice a new track has really helped a ton. And the racing is an absolute blast... Well, as long as you don't get collected in the accidents.
Having practiced the tracks, looked at some in-depth track guides and fiddled a bit with the setup, i usually end up getting around 4-5 seconds off the time i used to consider "best" i could do.
@@ConanTheBavarian is this still happening.
awesome thumbnail man!! 23 seconds in... Uhm WTF IS THAT!!! hahaha
That's the real slap train! 😉😝
They see the muscle rollin... They hatin.... 😂😂😂
Hahaha
This was such a great overall guide. I actually used this to add some minute adjustments to my current setup and I could immediately feel the difference in the level of information provided through the wheel. Such a great guide that I just had to share it with my Discord community. Thanks for sharing your knowledge m8.
My pleasure. Glad it helped out.
Righto here we Go Go GO‼️🏁
First of all, it’s great to listen to a fellow AUSSIE accent Oi 👍🏻. I’m a newbie to gaming 🕹️ in general at the rip ol age of 60 (the new 14 🤪🙄). What’s started with a recent Xmas gift “Oculus 2 VR set” that’s got me researching the mind blowing world of electronic games ((🤯)) looks like so much fun! I’m retired with a couple of mature age physical limitations but that ain’t gunna stop me! I own a 1969 Pontiac GP 455 stroker (noice), I can tell you playing ACC will most definitely be lighter on fuel ⛽️ costs 😂.
I’m dipping my toes in Sim racing and purchased a budget Thrustmaster TMX steering wheel & a two pedal set + Wreckfest, BeamNG & ACC to start me off. Also having a semi limited budget I will build my own DIY Sim Rig to satisfy my needs. I am glad the universe has crossed our paths and looking forward to learning more from you & your channel. Cheers from the Westside 🏁🤝🏻🇦🇺
For 'Meaningful Practice' I would add racing against other players' ghost cars from leaderboards (assuming the game supports it).
This one is huge, extremely useful
What are you practicing for...hotlapping and time Trial, or racing?
If your practicing to race, it's crucial to practice racing with other cars on track. Braking distances in a slip stream with a full tank and cold tires change everything. Too many people only practicing hotlapping is why public lobbies always have crashes on turn 1.
This video content and quality is incredible man. Amazing work!
Very correct man👍
Great guide! :)
The "perfect line" depends on what comes next.
Short straight after, you're right.
For a long straight after, brake later and harder, go deeper and turn sharper. You hit mid-corner slower, but in effect make the rest of the corner more open( this pushes the apex further around the corner), making a straighter exit with more speed coming onto the straight.
New to sim racing and just got ACC & AC.
This video is very useful.
As a sim racing beginner, I've watched hundreds of hours of youtube videos on the subject... and THIS video has been the most beneficial one yet. I'm anxious to watch more of your videos to see your suggestions on tracks, cars, programs, and hardware. THANK YOU for making this wonderful video.
I've been sim driving for two years and this was immensely helpful. Massive thanks.
The Meaningful Practice chapter is pure gold! If you glossed over this video, at least follow this part of the guide. Learning how to practice and race with other cars will lead you to the other areas you half listened to. Ermin is definitely on point with this guide, especially the practice section.
Great work, Mr Hamsandwich!
6:21 Being an audio engineering myself, this made a ton of sense to me
I was quite surprised by how well my NLR 2.0 stand stood up to my new 25nm Simucube 2 wheel! It's been rock solid. The most flex has been in the pedal tray, with a VNM Lite load cell brake attached, but it's not too bad.
Thought about getting the full GT Track expansion but a Simlab Evo + entry level seat is close to the same price of the whole NLR rig and will provide more expansion options and rigidity. Just gotta resell this stand when it comes time for it.
Great video. Honestly, this is the best new-to-simracing help video out there now, and I'm pretty sure I've seen them all at this point!
Anyone else using brake ducts to control the tire temperature?
Great video as always Ermin, keep it up!
This is a great video, it really encompasses the basics required for newcomers into sim racing. I liked that you mentioned meaningful practice and car setups. When I was brand new, messing with the car setup was daunting. But its important that with good research, its okay to mess around and learn how those adjustments affect car handling.
As someone who's just getting into sim racing this was very helpful especially since I have a g920 and just bought AC. Haven't checked out the rest of your videos but an updated one would be cool. For sure have a new subscriber
8:40 Dirt Rally 2.0 actually has the so called "Soft Lock" feature which basically does the same as what ACC does out of the box - adjusts the steering lock on per car basis. For example classic cars would have 900 degrees while modern ones would have 540 automatically if you enable this feature. One caveat is that it requires in game calibration before it allows you to enable it.
Otherwise great, informative video, keep this up! 🙂
Yeah i found this out the other day too.
I’ve found it doesn’t actually work on my logitech and just divide 540 by 900 to get my saturation value to keep every car at 540.
I'm sticking with my Audi R8 V10 Plus road car for the time being in AC on the Monza track. It's been super fun and the upgrade to DD was worth every penny.
1. Rig, check. 2. Pedals/ brake, check. But not load cell can't afford that. 3. Force Feedback dialed in with my Moza R5, check. 4. Steer Lock, check. 5.FOV set, check. 6. Car Setup will have to figure out. 7. Practice, practice, practice. Thanks, Ermz!
Great video - Deffo worth doing a series.
Now that is just a BEAUTIFUL video. Very nicely done. I’ve been sim racing for more than an year now and it was still relevant. Thank you.
I've mentioned in the past but to no avail because many sim racers are too bone idle to put in the effort that one great way to maximise your ability is to take advantage of the sim by setting everything beyond what you are comfortable with where the car wants to oversteer in every situation. After a lot of frustration, slowly but surely over time a driver will get much, much better and will be doing the right things without realising it. This is absolutely essential. Ever wondered why Max Verstappen is so good? His dad used to send him out on slicks in the wet in a kart.
0Such a very well put together informative video. All the different car setups, explanations of driving lines in corners & general no nonsense facts for me have been so good. It has been even more helpful to me as I have been practising on the Brand Hatch circuit. Incidently I live just 25 miles from the Circuit.
Thanks ermin
By adapting to some your ffb settings and changing from 900degrrw wheel lock to 640 on the Merc AMG straight away I was shaving time of my best oulton park times .
Thank for the useful video keep them coming
That's great to hear!
Thank you so much for the cool video! I've known you since the days of your cool work with sound (I work in the field of sound engineering myself). And now I found out very expectedly that you still know a lot about simracing. I recently purchased a Fanatec DD + McLaren V2 and train intensively. In this video, you touched on the aspects of customization in incredible detail for me. I could not understand why it was so difficult for me to drive some cars in the ACC, despite the fact that they are praised, I had one-on-one as in your video, the rear axle of the car was demolished and there were other problems with handling. Now you've clarified everything, for which I wanted to say a big thank you!!! The video is very informative and you perfectly explain everything in it.
My setup has flex. Wonderful, glorious flex! Its stiff enough to give me more details from my wheelbase, but it flexes just enough to let me feel the FFB fighting against my arms, through my pedals. Its amazing!
I'm using a GTOmega Apex wheelstand. And I tethered my chair in place with a cargo strap. Good stuff!
simply put this video should be required viewing for new comers to sim racing... concise information that will lead to improvements in any aspiring sim racers skill set. 26 minuets of great advice.
"I love you, Will" and aluminum back to back made me spit out coffee.
lol
The most important thing I learned in racing was patience. I soon stepped above the players who aren’t happy with being overtaken and was racing with people with awareness who would yield positions when they cut the track and wouldn’t rage-ram on the last corner.
Get your ratings up kings.
love the Northlane instrumentals in the background
Pro advice: when investing into an aluminium frame do not count on saving by taking a seat from a scrapyard. It will freakin stink but you will find that only when you're at home. Cheap (and clean) bucket will be much lighter and immersive
True i spent 150 on a simlab sf1 with brackets..gotta find them deals
this may easily be the best beginners guide on youtube mate! great job on this video
Came for 7 Tips, got away with like 700 ;) thank you for the great work you put into this video!
Tip 8: you will encounter varied levels of toxicity and biased moderators depending on sim of your choice :)
Great explanation of setup for the car dynamics. Appreciate your video by subscribing.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
I’ve wanted to get into driving since I was a kid. But I don’t want to spend the money it takes to race for real. Car problems, maintenance, waiting in line to race. I don’t want to give that much of my time.
But aim racing sounds like a great compromise for me. Money wise, a solid mid-tier set up is a fraction of what even a low end track car costs.
Spending $1k+ sounds crazy to people just to ‘play a game’. But that’s cheap in relation to irl racing.
Love your enthusiasm. Subbed!
Dirt Rally 2 does have steering lock auto adjustment, the option for it is hidden in the menus, but it is 100% in the game. It was also in Dirt Rally 1 as well.
Although a pedal upgrade is important, I would consider a TV or monitor upgrade far more essential. It also benefits everything else you do with your PC or console as a bonus.
Or well... Vr hehe
Not essential to pure performance -- though maybe for enjoyment and immersion. You stick a pro sim racer on a 60hz 24" entry level walmart monitor and they'll blow us plebs out of the water, even if we have a $3,000 triple screen Samsung G7 holy grail setup.
I just want to throw this out there for the guys thinking that they need expensive setups to be fast, and therefore get discouraged. I was huge into sim racing from the early 2000s until 2016 and held many lap time/TT world records in various sims, and I did it all on a Logitech Driving Force GT with the stock pedals and no assists in game. Don't think you can't be fast with a cheap hardware setup. In fact, I have never raced a sim with a nice setup-maybe I'd be world champion if I did ;)
Super work, Ermin. Very helpful. Especially the bit about practice. Thanks for making this!
Great video. I am saving this one so I can watching when I sobber up.
I've watched a lot of your videos, this is the best, thank you!
Thank you for this video. For reference this was the first vid of yours I've watched. Truth be told I was on TH-cam for the exact reason you started this video with. Man do I suck, and I was feeling really down on myself tonight. But then I found this video and by the end of it you really made me feel better. It feels like I have a purpose to keep racing again. A new fire to continue practicing, and practicing with a purpose. Thanks again, I'm off to rinse, lather, repeat.
Thanks for the FFB explanation, I never looked at it as an audio wave. Gonna go and reconfigure my TX !
It seems weird to think of it like that though. If that's true then the gain would be universal across all wheel bases since it's digital signal clipping before output, in which case the games signal should have a compressor or have a much lower limit so it doesn't clip. I suppose it makes sense, they just let you boost the shit out of the signal until it's almost always clipping, which is really stupid. Either way having your wheel set up like that makes it unnaturally heavy.
Great guide, Ermz. Thank you!
3:30min in and already my suspicions have been validated
I’m fine with the Logitech wheel but would like better pedals. Trail braking is a lot harder and I set my max force a few ticks low to not lock up.
I’m happy with a basic “Playseat” setup. It will take a big person too.
Great content mate, my setup is nothing more than a ps4 and assetto corsa with a g923 wheel, can't wait to get a pc and play assetto corsa competizone, but for now if you compare my first lap a few months ago on the Nordschleife with the 919 it highly reflects my progress onto what ive done with a ferrari 488 gt3 car, will make sure to give the 919 another attempt soon and setup wise im getting soooo much better, Nordschleife is a great place to learn that
Thank you. I learned a lot from this video 👍🏻
Another option when it comes to setups is buying setup bundles, ESPECIALLY in ACC, if you don't have the time and/or know-how for making them.
subscribed...not even brought a wheel yet, looking at the G923, gonna be far more technical than expected, looking forward to trying it...thanks for the help, very informative vid...
Really should not underestimate the playseat challenge, i would even regard it better then the normal models because of having no pole in the middle. I have CSL loadcell pedals and a CSW V2.5 on there without issue, i did put a wood block between the desk and base so it doesnt move around so much. I can even do long races, got a p2 in a league race of 1,5 hours in ACC. Although a firm cockpit will always be better.
Agree, I have the Thrustmaster load cell pedals on one and have never felt I'm missing out or compromised.
Still wouldn't want to run anything higher than 8nm DD on one of those -- It's perfect for entry level fanatec or belt driven wheels though, if that's all someone plans to use on one. For the same price, you can get a NLR 2.0 stand that'll handle a 25nm wheelbase + load cell with ease -- Just gotta use a (more comfortable) office chair.
Great video for people who have started sim driving, great content for some experienced ones to, cheers :)
Wow Ermin, did not realise you did racing sims as well. Followed your work since the Sneap forum was the place to be.
I just started with a moza r5(brake upgraded) on a trakracer rs6.
Solid beginner rig❤ not very cheap but it will go a few miles
This was a very helpful video. Thanks Ermin.
Nice work man
Keep up with the good job
i showed my friend who is a pretty good driver me going around spa in the f2004 and he gave me some tips like sending it more as i was hitting inner curbs quite alot and to not slow down too much in turn 11
Thanks. Very nice explanation on those ffb settings in acc. It took me awhile to figure out my g29 ..
Such a great tutorial👍
*_W00h000! Hatch!_*
Glad so see someone drive GP!
Fantastic video for a rookie like me. Thank you so much, subscribed!
I sim race with a chair with wheels that do not lock, this is kind of an issue that I need to fix.
I had the same problem.
If you want a simple budget solution heres what i did.
At the hardware store I bought some packs of rubber chair pads and stuck 1 under each wheel. They look like small circles with raised edges and are meant to stop scratching the floor but i found that while sitting on them the wheels dont move at all so it totally solved my problem
@@PGMT22 thanks for the advice!
@@PGMT22 If your chair has casters they can be replaced with feet that fit in the same socket. They're about a tenner on Amazon for a set of five. Easy to take on/off so you needn't lose the mobility of your chair.
100% agree. I built my DIY (built, not bought) Steel full motion rig. Welded. Solid. Loadcell VR and EPIC! Just subscribe to your channel my friend! actually went the same route as you described here! Kudos from Mississippi USA! DMAX Motion Sim Ch
Phenomenal info... thanks a bunch
That intro was cool
Great video besides one part - FOV.
You explained FOV well and were on the right path with the suggestion of the FOV calculator, but you killed it when you failed to mention that the 'correct' FOV doesn't always work for everyone. A lot of people use 'incorrect' FOV because they're comfortable with their settings. For example, I use between 60-67 FOV on my 24" 1080p monitor because I can see everything, however on my 34" UW I use something like 54 FOV, because I can see pretty much the same amount of information, but not so much of the interior.
There is no truly correct FOV, it comes down to what you're comfortable running, and if you're one of those people that can comfortably run warp speed 75+, so be it. Don't let elitists/purists tell you otherwise, who cares what they think.
Shh, the FoV police will come hunt us down.
13:00 tire temperature is all over the place too in that setup
First thing in the video is getting me to spend more money :(
I'll stick with my G29 + shifter setup on my table for now (I use 3D printed office chair wheel stoppers to get my chair to stop moving lmao), I play other games not just racing sims so it's not worth for me to invest my limited income into a single game. The driving tips are useful though, so thanks for that.
Great video as always. I wish to see more setup videos to make us understand in dept tuning. But i have seen not many ppl are in for that😔
Great vid.
I have one comment on your FFB advice.
For lower end wheels you spoke about linearity of FFB but not really about clipping. Unless I misunderstood you...you sound like clipping is more of an issue with DD wheels.
Clipping is a killer for low end wheels as it is extremally easy to get due to limited amount of strength of the motors.
I'm not sure if it's a good analogy but I like to think about the clipping as water overflowing a funnel when you are pouring it into a bottle. Funnel being your wheel base motor in this example and water being your ffb signal strength: with lower grade wheels you have small funnel so you have to pour controlled. smaller amount of water through it to avoid overflowing (clipping).
DD wheels with their 15 -20+ NM of torque can take much more water flow at any given time so it is much more difficult to "overflow" them in my example.
In my experience it's easier to get my hands destroyed than to clip FFB on DD wheel.
Dirt Rally has Soft lock setting which enable software controlled wheel lock.
In ACC for some reason I have failed to achieve that feature. I tried multiple times setting both wheel and in game to 900 degrees of rotation, and then I get into McLaren and the wheel turns 900 degrees... So for the time being I am adjusting manually on a car to car basis. Not a big deal but slightly annoying for sure :D
That's not how clipping of a digital signal works. He's right, it's like an audio waveform... sort of. Very similar. In audio there's digital signal clipping before the output, and then physical speaker clipping if the gain is too high.
In case A, it doesn't matter what speakers you use, the signal is clipped, you will get clipping. The signal has to be turned down before output send.
In case B, technically it would go into ohms and resistances, but fuck trying to explain all that. Let's just say it's more like pumping a clean audio signal at high volume through small speakers that can't handle it and they blow. The speakers (or the amp they're plugged into) need to be down to get the clean signal and not overdrive.
In the case of cheaper wheels like the Logitech, it's probably both. For direct drive, the assumption is that the "speakers" will handle any volume, as long as it's receiving a clean signal.
@@JZStudiosonline Fair enough.
I knew my analogy was not the best. So thanks for confirming that. But I think end result in both is the same...loss of signal. I know that ffb signal is not spilli g..its simply lost.
My main problem with his video is that he talks about clipping in relation to dd wheels while dd wheels are less prone to clipping in the first place.
As you said direct drives can take the powah. Low end wheels...have their limitations kick in much sooner.
And by limitations I mean clipping.
I built a rig out of 2x4s and MDF. As an old car seat and boom! Rig that is better than $2000 rigs fire around $30 worth of materials.
Excellent video, loved it
Awesome video mate!
Totally related to the topic of testing for hours to learn new things when we drive on the Sim, that's exactly what I do almost every day 😀 thanks for the video!
Thank you for your great video!
Please make a series teaching us the art of fine tuning the cars.
Just a thought from me, if you are handy enough, design and assemble your own aluminium extrusion rig (some companies have design tools and/or will cut it to custom lengths for you). It will likely be a similar price to a next-level racing rig or slightly cheaper but will be future-proofed and much more rigid. Do research before that though! Great vid.
Do you have any resources to recommend for set ups?
Excellent vid 😀
What was the BGM at around 8:29?
I knew I’ve seen you somewhere first lol flatline is sick
first time I ever loaded up project cars I quit and didn’t return for like a year. I know setups aren’t vital but dont have a good enough understanding of everything to really know what I’m doing
Excellent. Thank you
What was your suspension and brake bias setting for the brands hatch hotlap?
Thank you. Good points
I played with a car enthousiast friend who got this game like 2 days ago. I don’t know much about cars but I’ve played assetto for a month or two now, he absolutely destroyed me after about a day of learning the controls 💀
Aluminium Rig ist cheaper than your cockpit (at least my quick google search was 500€). Self constructed with triple screen mount i paid under 400€ (without seat)for it and its solid as rock. Dont waste money and go straight to aluminium extrusion Rig, if you have the space!
I absolutely need that mclaren setup for my league race at brands
The car set up does find time for sure, although I feel it should be pointed out that the driver already needs to be highly competent and know how to extract everything from the car, no set up will automatically find you time.
if it fixes an obvious issue you struggle with, then it will likely affect your laptimes and/or consistency in a race no matter if you're high skilled or average
It depends really,if you take a setup that someone else is quick with,but it doesn’t suit you,you may even get worse. However if you take one that suits you,it’ll allow you to be more confident. Which automatically brings improvement
Wood, bolts, screws, washers, locknuts, measuring tape, a level, and a drill = home rig. Measure thrice cut once.
Great video love the content
Great vid!!! Thanks!!!
I definitely think I have watched this before. But as I am hold up in my bedroom w COVID and without my rig I am watching again. Great video indeed. Two things of interest you did not touch on was first the FFB section you did not mention where you set the baseline FFB of your wheel base. In game you mentioned 40-60% gain. Second I did not hear any mention of the long time lesson of looking to where you want to be next on track not at what is right in front of you. To look ahead.
Your trail braking example, it all happens so fast, what it actually ends up looking like is simply coming off the brake gradually rather than being an all or nothing.
What it looks like to a complete novice - ergo me - is more like you're balancing the car gently pre-to-mid corner, rather than forcing a kangaroo type motion of the overall/general chassis and just upsetting everything (suspension, tyres etc)?
Thanks for the great video packed with useful info! How do I make Asseto Crosa to look as good as yours?
Did you skip leg day for 10 years? 130 kilos of force is not much at all from a leg/foot. 4:20 the sweet spot is based on personal preference not the wheel itself...
i am not terribly slow luckily, i have track experience in real life and it transfers quite well back and forth, but my problem now is i was quick in iRacing, went to ACC for a week, got quick in ACC and came back to iRacing and i'm extremely slow bc they feel worlds away, with less detail in iRacing than i originally thought
I have the thrusadter u have what should I use for ffb