Wow! What a great video. As someone fairly new to leading and climbing outdoors, these were scenarios that I had never even thought about. Thanks for the excellent and simple, succinct explanations.
Thank you for posting this! I would consider myself a moderate climber, confident leading 5.9 if bolted / 5.8 if trad. This type of information helps me keep myself and my climbing partner safe, build confidence / practice for something like an SPI course. And if someone had no desire to be an SPI, that person could learn essentially the same skills as that SPI and could help local climbers without paying for the stamp (totally appreciate and understand the requirement for outdoor stamps as a professional). Viewing from Durango, CO
Great video. Like the longer videos to go with the shorter Instagram posts. If you were using this for a leader rescue, is there anything you can do to mitigate the risk that you are relying on one piece of gear/bolt when you reach the fallen leader beyond building an anchor when you reach them?
Well there actually is something you can do, I consider it one of the most complicated “self rescues” a climber might have to preform. So basically you would untie and leave your end as an “anchor” and then preform a solo lead. This way if all else fails you would be leading on the gear up to where you could ge to the leader. This is not ideal obviously and assumes the rescuing climber knows how to rope solo.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to perform this rescue with a child who is so light that when the belayer tries to ascend, they instead lift the child? It seems like the belayer could tie off the belay and then climb up behind the child causing them to be lowered, but I feel like there must be a more elegant solution.
The biner above redirects the force you apply to the rope. For simplification, assume no friction within the Grigri. So, the force of the strand to the Grigri is the same as from the Grigri . 2 strands are pulling you (are attached 2 you) with the force you applied to the rope . So 2:1 Your video , where you demonstrated assistance from above , is 3:1 since you have 3 loaded strands to your climber …
@@felixd1127 It's 3:1 because the grigri is acting as a pulley on the anchor (rescuer in this case). I'm more concerned with the incorrect instruction on the RAD technique being shown. No need for backup knots if you attach yourself to the ascender properly. And what he calls a prussik looks to be a Klemheist, which are different and not typically used in a rescue context. In all honesty, I wouldn't do anything he suggested for a pick off due to the issues above and suggestions to have the victim grab onto the tether are a no go for me.
How would you do this in a lead climbing situation instead of top rope? Say the climber fell halfway up the route and gets stuck. You would just accept doing all of this on one bolt instead of an anchor and you'd have to unclip the rope at every quickdraw?
Correct, hopefully there would be a couple in between you and the climber once you got to them. The bigger question is if they fell on trad gear, would you trust it. If you don’t, this rescue becomes way more complicated!
Karsten, say this wasn't a slab but overhanging or vertical, and the climber was a small child. How would you ascend to the child? I know with my kids, if I was to ascend to them, they would just get pulled to the top of the anchor (Because I weigh substantially more than they do). Thoughts?
@@JoBianco well kinda. You wouldn’t want to fall. I suppose you could have a fixed line to go up next to the climb while maintaining the belay. In guiding we just don’t get kids into that situation until we are sure they can deal with it. This takes some patience for sure!
It is a 3:1. If you look up Richard Delaney, he has a great video on why it is. You can also measure the rope coming out and you will get 3 times the amount as you go up!
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W1D5 | Fall | เก็บแต้มของจริง คือวันนี้](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EciIAlCXg5k/mqdefault.jpg)
Karsten! You are an exceptional instructor! The best video on this subject I have ever watched! KUDOS!!!
Awesome! Definitely gonna try to make some more!
Very clear! Great instruction for the aspiring climbing instructor!
Excellent explanation of rescue techniques for this terrain!!
Would love to see more SPI course curriculum. You seem very knowledgeable and explain these concepts very well.
I have some in the works but had some life issues and have had to put a lot on hold. I am trying to get back to it.
Just finished my SPI course and this is the review I needed - thank you!
Awesome! I’m glad it helped!
Wow! What a great video. As someone fairly new to leading and climbing outdoors, these were scenarios that I had never even thought about. Thanks for the excellent and simple, succinct explanations.
Your welcome!
Awesome video, thanks for posting.
Great video..excellent instructions & learning...but also top notch video production quality !!
Thx! I try to put a lot of effort into these!
Wow this is next level 🙏
Awesome! Glad you found it useful!
Thank you for posting this!
I would consider myself a moderate climber, confident leading 5.9 if bolted / 5.8 if trad. This type of information helps me keep myself and my climbing partner safe, build confidence / practice for something like an SPI course. And if someone had no desire to be an SPI, that person could learn essentially the same skills as that SPI and could help local climbers without paying for the stamp (totally appreciate and understand the requirement for outdoor stamps as a professional).
Viewing from Durango, CO
You are correct! These skills are great for any climber and fairly easy to practice at the crag!
Thanks for the comment!
definitely done this before. great refresher!
Awesome!
Great vid, simple clear, top notch.
Thx!
Wow! Anna-Marie did some kind of twilight zone ninja move there!
Duh, that is what ninjas do!
Great video!!!
Thx!
Great video, thank you!
Amazing video.thanks a lot.. very helpful
wow great movie thank you
Your welcome!
Super helpful. Thanks!
Awesome!
Thanks!
Thank you!!!
Great vid!!
Thx!
Nice job Karsten!
Thanks!
Great video. Like the longer videos to go with the shorter Instagram posts.
If you were using this for a leader rescue, is there anything you can do to mitigate the risk that you are relying on one piece of gear/bolt when you reach the fallen leader beyond building an anchor when you reach them?
Well there actually is something you can do, I consider it one of the most complicated “self rescues” a climber might have to preform.
So basically you would untie and leave your end as an “anchor” and then preform a solo lead. This way if all else fails you would be leading on the gear up to where you could ge to the leader.
This is not ideal obviously and assumes the rescuing climber knows how to rope solo.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to perform this rescue with a child who is so light that when the belayer tries to ascend, they instead lift the child? It seems like the belayer could tie off the belay and then climb up behind the child causing them to be lowered, but I feel like there must be a more elegant solution.
At 6:52 this is a 2:1 , not 3:1
Nice video with good ideas !
What makes it a 2:1 over a 3:1?
The biner above redirects the force you apply to the rope.
For simplification, assume no friction within the Grigri. So, the force of the strand to the Grigri is the same as from the Grigri .
2 strands are pulling you (are attached 2 you) with the force you applied to the rope . So 2:1
Your video , where you demonstrated assistance from above , is 3:1 since you have 3 loaded strands to your climber …
@@felixd1127 it is actually a 3:1. Richard Delaney explains it well in this video: th-cam.com/video/93AX2aPibZc/w-d-xo.html
@@felixd1127 It's 3:1 because the grigri is acting as a pulley on the anchor (rescuer in this case). I'm more concerned with the incorrect instruction on the RAD technique being shown. No need for backup knots if you attach yourself to the ascender properly. And what he calls a prussik looks to be a Klemheist, which are different and not typically used in a rescue context. In all honesty, I wouldn't do anything he suggested for a pick off due to the issues above and suggestions to have the victim grab onto the tether are a no go for me.
I guess if you come from above you would do a tandem rappel?
You would have options then, the tandem being one of them.
Is this at looking glass?
Yes. The video was shot at the Nose!
Why am I still confused on how they can lower at the same time
The friction hitch is grabbing the rope on the other side and "pulling" on that rope.
Great video - just one clarification. Is the sling 120cm? (would be good to add in metric units to the graphics for us who live outside the US)
Ah! Good point! Yes it is 120cm.
How would you do this in a lead climbing situation instead of top rope? Say the climber fell halfway up the route and gets stuck. You would just accept doing all of this on one bolt instead of an anchor and you'd have to unclip the rope at every quickdraw?
Correct, hopefully there would be a couple in between you and the climber once you got to them. The bigger question is if they fell on trad gear, would you trust it. If you don’t, this rescue becomes way more complicated!
Karsten, say this wasn't a slab but overhanging or vertical, and the climber was a small child. How would you ascend to the child? I know with my kids, if I was to ascend to them, they would just get pulled to the top of the anchor (Because I weigh substantially more than they do). Thoughts?
You really have to climb at that point. But of course if it is overhung, likely you could lower.
@@howtoclimb thanks, I'm just imagining a kid scared clinging to the wall and refusing to let go. So free solo is the only option?
@@JoBianco well kinda. You wouldn’t want to fall. I suppose you could have a fixed line to go up next to the climb while maintaining the belay.
In guiding we just don’t get kids into that situation until we are sure they can deal with it. This takes some patience for sure!
It’s 2:1
It is a 3:1. If you look up Richard Delaney, he has a great video on why it is. You can also measure the rope coming out and you will get 3 times the amount as you go up!