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How To Rock and Alpine Climb
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 27 ธ.ค. 2007
Rock climbing, Ice climbing, alpine climbing and ski mountaineering tech tips from AMGA/ IFMGA Licensed Mountain Guide Karsten Delap.
Easy way to back up a munter rappel
Here is an easy way to back up a munter rappel using the Lux Lock method.
#climbingrocks #rockclimbing #rappeling #learntoclimb #learntorappel
#climbingrocks #rockclimbing #rappeling #learntoclimb #learntorappel
มุมมอง: 1 051
วีดีโอ
Who Are We? | Pisgah Climbing School
มุมมอง 11K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Head to our website to learn more and book a guided day now: www.pisgahclimbingschool.com Ready for adventure? Join us at Pisgah Climbing School for a once-in-a-lifetime experience in the Southeast! Whether you're new to climbing or have some experience under your belt, our AMGA-certified guides are here to help you master techniques and enjoy breathtaking climbs. Check out this video for a gli...
Tandem “ rescue” rappel
มุมมอง 1K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Here is a way to rescue a fellow climber if they need help rappelling. I use this when rappelling with children mostly, however you could use it to bring someone down that dropped their rappelling device or needs assistance do to some medical issue. #climbingrocks #learntoclimb #rockclimbing #rappeling
Mountain Rescue Dual Mainline Set Up
มุมมอง 4.4K7 หลายเดือนก่อน
Here is a tiny Dual Mainline or Twin Tensioned (TTRS) set up for use in the mountain environment. There are many different devices that can be used in this set up but here are the few we found to be light enough and probably what you are already carrying. Learn More at www.pisgahclimbingschool.com #techtips #mountainrescue #ttrs #learntoclimb #rappeling #selfrescue
How to tie the Munter Mule Overhand
มุมมอง 3.5K8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Tying the Munter Mule Overhand can be quite tricky. Here are a few tips to help you out. #learntoclimb #rockclimbing #rescue #Munter #rappeling #selfrescue #partnerrescue #anchor #techtips You can learn more at: www.pisgahclimbingschool.com
How to retrieve a stuck cam!
มุมมอง 5Kปีที่แล้ว
Here is a short video on how to retrieve a stuck cam while rock climbing. #climbing #rockclimbing #howtoclimb #rappelling
Climbing Anchors Mussy Hooks, Best Practices
มุมมอง 8Kปีที่แล้ว
Climbing Anchors Mussy Hooks, Best Practices
Rock climbing multi-pitch rope management with Zack Mintz
มุมมอง 4.9Kปีที่แล้ว
Rock climbing multi-pitch rope management with Zack Mintz
How to place ice screws. How to ice climb series.
มุมมอง 3.2Kปีที่แล้ว
How to place ice screws. How to ice climb series.
Most efficient way to belay: the hip belay.
มุมมอง 3.6K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Most efficient way to belay: the hip belay.
Climbing Anchors: The Girth Hitch Master Point (don't do this)
มุมมอง 56K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Climbing Anchors: The Girth Hitch Master Point (don't do this)
Easiest way to pass a knot: MOFT Knot Pass
มุมมอง 3.4K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Easiest way to pass a knot: MOFT Knot Pass
AMGA SPI curriculum: How to raise a climber from above.
มุมมอง 11K2 ปีที่แล้ว
AMGA SPI curriculum: How to raise a climber from above.
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor pick off / rescue / lead climber rescue
มุมมอง 21K2 ปีที่แล้ว
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor pick off / rescue / lead climber rescue
Efficient climbing transitions: pre-rigging the rappel
มุมมอง 4.5K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Efficient climbing transitions: pre-rigging the rappel
Anchoring efficiency with the backside of the clove hitch
มุมมอง 4.1K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Anchoring efficiency with the backside of the clove hitch
This is why we flake rope and how to make a rope coil! How to coil a climbing rope.
มุมมอง 2.7K2 ปีที่แล้ว
This is why we flake rope and how to make a rope coil! How to coil a climbing rope.
Secrets to throwing the rope while rappelling !
มุมมอง 6K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Secrets to throwing the rope while rappelling !
Building Simple Snow Anchors. The vertical picket and the T-slot
มุมมอง 1.1K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Building Simple Snow Anchors. The vertical picket and the T-slot
Surgeons knot for tree anchors in climbing
มุมมอง 2.2K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Surgeons knot for tree anchors in climbing
2 and 7 are teached at my gym so that
Their anchor and rappel point do not line up. Could have used a redirection on the rappel? Or moved over to line up. Also the edge attendant’s tether was either not shortened or the capture device was not rigged correctly and checked for function. People near the edge who do not have to be.
_“But did you die?” - Mr Chow_
I use 1 whenever im able to
Looks good to me! No comment :-)
That is very clever method. 👍
Superb!
Great explanation. 👍
Hard no on #6
Great video. It seems just as easy to tie a normal master point and put a small non-locker inside the overhand knot to make it easy to untie. I've seen many guides use this trick and have used it myself, but I am curious if anyone has ever strength-tested this method.
What kind of sorcery is this…?
Great technique. 😀
Can we please just stop using take as a command for tensioning the rope? Take and slack sound dangerously similar. Calling "tension" is much less likely to be confusing.
This may have also already have been mentioned previously in the many, many comments, but when I did my SPI we learned a couple of additional ways to deal with an injured climber after setting up the tandem descent. Either, position them in a side saddle fashion cradled in your lap, or behind you piggyback style.
Also... In the instance where there is slack in the system, would it be better to attach the GriGri above the ballet device?
Would it be a better practice to tie that backup knot as close to the bottom of the device as possible? A fall of even a few feet could be injurious, and, in the case of a novice climber, more than a little disconcerting.
Hi! Question, if you are still reading the comments: why do you use a clove hitch instead of just hooking the end of the sling on the carabiner? Or if the sling is too long, just tie an overhand knot and hook that.
Excellent explanation I kept getting confused with the part about the slip knot only capturing the lid strand versus capturing both until I saw this video
This is the best video on YT for the CT hitch, thank you
You should test a carabiner with a round stock so you can determine if it's the shape of the rod. I think it could be the small size and curve of the ring causing it to slip so low.
I find this really helpful because I’ve never preferred girth hitching the connect adjust to my belay loop but it also cinches very tight and is uncomfortable girth hitched through the hard points of your harness. While you lose a bit of length, this is a great solution to that issue. Thanks for sharing!!
I want to know what happened to the technique where one simply made the twist and inserted their locking krab or two opposing snap links? I mean for a rock to fall and cut the sling -if this was suspected then I'm going to build in more redundancy if possible. By simply making the usual twist and using the screw gate (yes i may have to leave it) but if the load for some reason ie the body has to move due also to a rock fall, then if the anchors are not equi spaced as you show in the ideal setup, then the loads will shift unevenly using the girth hitch method i believe.
I think building anchors is a lot of trade offs and the points you make are an expression of that. There is no "perfect" anchor. I learned that actors should be SERENE. Strong, efficient, redundant, equalized, no extension. In the simple magic x that you described, it has more self-equalization, but could extend if a piece fails. The girth hitch described in the video, has no self-equalization, but won't extend nearly at all if a piece fails. Different scenarios require different anchors, I'm sure you could come up with many reasons why you'd choose one over the other. As always, use your experience and talk with other experienced friends to judge whether you believe a new technique is safe and worth putting into your mental toolbox. I always find it's better to have more tools in the tool box than not enough
Really appreciate your videos Karsten!
Seems fun to have a ring, but why have kit that can do one job rather kit (biner) that can do a range of jobs. Also, carrying a ring seems tricky, you need to put it on a biner!!!!
Completely lost from second 3
I think that a little more emphasis on removing the knots on the way down (after the 12 minute mark) would be a good idea. It would be a real pain to get one unjammed from the grigri if you settle against it with the weight of two people.
Due to being counterbalanced, it is just your weight that you would need to lift up. They are not “hanging” off of you but balancing on the other end of the rope. So it is just like ascending.
@@howtoclimbyou are right of course.
These guys right on the edge NOT secure is what is killing me the most…would have been death if the line of the abseiler made them trip Belayer and abseiler are just silly bugger they just need to be away from each other and the line of action of the abseiler specially - abseilers position is not the best. I would not personally chosen that location either. It not appropriate for beginners.
Павленковский вариант удобнее. Верёвка легче идёт.
One of the top 3 explanations on TH-cam. Thank you so much. Love the slip knot demos. I can see how if you tie the mule incorrectly it's like the slip knot that's really "nothing" as you say, but when this is done as a hitch capturing only the load stand, won't it hold it to some extent? What actually happens if you incorrectly tie the hitch this way and then back it up with the overhand? Will it certainly fail, or will it just be less reliable?
#2 and #7 !
This is an awesome tip!
Amazing difference! Thanks for this video👏👏 Hugs 🙋
Build an anchor in a horizontal with tricams: effective Build an anchor in a horizontal with regular cams: sketchy. Risk death
7:10 Clove hitch with the rope on a locker on harness would also work here? Can just adjust the clove every 3m or so.
The original one all day
Location ...
This is the best explanation I've seen of the MMO, thank you for this
Thx!
I love that! Thanks for the trick 😁 I suppose if you don't have a second system you can always introduce another locker to the sling, keeping the rope on the correct side as you introduce it.
You could!
Amazing, never would have thought of that!
Probably the coolest little trick I’ve seen for a while. Can’t believe I have seen or worked that out before! Huge thanks for this…
Sick
But where is she personal ancor is? With two mustages
Are you using a Munter’s tongue or just getting lucky with invades?
I don't really understand why extending the munter would make the rope twist more... Also, would it be an option to extend a super munter and back it up with a prussik hitch?
Tried that yesterday. Works great and comfy for IV class!
Love it! I would only put the spine of the carabiner towards the 'break side' of the hitch, rather than the gate, which could rub the gate's screw lock open. Thanks for sharing this technique!
Awesome
Orientation of the carabiner on the left bolt got my ocd goin…
Can you make a shelf above the girth hitch?
I’d tell then to go back to the big city, where they obviously belong.