You are officially the first supporter to give a “super thanks” and I truly appreciate it. So glad the content was helpful. I continue trying to keep it that way. Thanks for watching and for your continued support!!
@@HartfordWhaler Well it was only a tiny contribution but I had to see how it worked because I appreciated your help and I recently added that feature to my own channel. Thanks again and I look forward to more updates from your layout!
Thank you! Probably no sanding facility. The layout represents a subdivision of P&W, so the assumption is that the bigger engine facilities with sanding and covered shops would be in Providence or other larger yards. I have to choose my battles!
Can I ask what you used for your between-rails "grates" or "absorption pads" in your refueling area? They are exactly what I've been looking for but haven't been able to find. Thanks.
No problem. The below video is part 2 of the project. I just added links to these 2 videos to the description of the video you watched… m.th-cam.com/video/J0kTxXBFEB0/w-d-xo.html
@@HartfordWhaler Thanks again! I had actually seen the 2nd episode already which is how I knew such a thing existed but didn't ask at the time for whatever reason, I guess figuring I could find it on Walthers as an add-on detail or something. By the time I realized I couldn't find the part, I had forgotten where I had seen it. Fortunately, I caught your most recent video, saw you pan across that area and was reminded where I'd seen those drip pans! Now I'll finally be able to finish 3 different engine service facilities on my layout...I was waiting on the source for that one detail!
Glad you can finish the scene now! The kit has a lot of usable parts so it’ll be worth buying. It’s one of their less expensive kits. Still not inexpensive, but relative to other Walthers kits. Glad I could help. Keep me posted on the build!
Paul I also want to drop something in your tip jar, as your videos are helping me to plan, and work out the details of my little HO switching layout as well. Question: After you weather the track with powders, do you seal it with a spray of clear dull coat?
You’re awesome. Good question on the track weathering. The first time I did it, I sprayed the ballast with a mix of water and isopropyl alcohol after applying the powder to “settle” it in. I now find that isn’t necessary and it actually takes away some of the color. Once that power is worked into the ballast, it really doesn’t go anywhere even if you vacuum. I do prefer Vallejo pigments. They are not a sponsor. Thanks again for the generous super thanks and for watching!
nice work, paul !!! i might have missed it, but do you have plans for overhead lighting for the facility, as lighting and security fences go hand in hand. i just completed my dsf ( diesel svc. facility) and added a small office building, a ptc tower, and a parking area for employees/visitors. you have done a nice job, and i like the simple, little scenes around my pike a lot. dsf's are my favorite things to model , while keeping them "down-sized" adds a bit of realism.... keep up the nice work !!!
Thanks for the nice comments and for the lighting idea! You just gave me a new project. What sort of lighting did you use? I’ll probably not actually light it because I do daytime op’s but I’d definitely put up the light structure. I have to now that you gave me the idea! For parking, I have a dirt road that goes off the edge of the layout by the facility which could be where parking overflow is. There is a small parking area in front of the yard office building which I didn’t really show in this video. It’s a kitbash of a PikeStuff yard office. Currently, I am putting fencing around the entire scene using Alkem chain linked fencing.
good morning paul !!! just having a.m. coffee and got your note... like you, i do not power my lights as i am not into lighting as much as my friends are. first, with regards to answering your question... i noticed you said you used alkem fencing, well, check out their yard lights, which i have 8 of... they are beautiful but expensive fine brass kits that are prototypically correct !!! here is what i did ... i bought my alkem yard lights years ago but wanted several more modern lights so i kitbashed 8 with this recipe... i went to my local hardware store and bought some brass rod w/ correct scale diameter of a modern lightpost in a yard. then i "cut plastic" ( very finely sanded, too) to look like the modern light fixtures ( 4 arms branching off the center of the fixture) seen today way up at the top of the rod. i bought evergreen square plastic rod with a hole down the middle that would accept the brass rod's diameter and glued it to the bottom of the pole as a cement base ( about 1/2 long). i noticed there was a round disk like part to the top of the modern lights, so i went to walmart and bought buttons that were the right size to fit on top of the light fixture itself. of course i cut-off and sanded the part of the button where the string goes thru so it would "fit" on top of the light itself. then i glued that on top and painted everything med. gray. i left about 1" of brass rod out the bottom of the evergreen plastic bottom so i could drill a hole in the roadbed for a tight fit. finally i took yellow tape used for big r/c cars and put 2 "stripes " around the evergreen base. a bit of work but nice in the end. i will send pics if you want via a friends phone next time he visits. the light "arms"are white. blessings to you, paul... denny@@HartfordWhaler
paul... question... are you a hartford whalers fan from way back as your name suggests ? here is why i ask. the very last game in the old "aud" up in buffalo,ny ( i am 45 minutes directly south of it) years back was against the whalers and i scalped a ticket for like $75 and sat 5-6 rows up from the ice... there was an all-out 2 team brawl, a real donnybrook with both goalies fighting as well at mid ice !!! what a night !!! the sabres organization gave us plastic ticket frames so we could save our very last game at the aud tickets forever !!! i still have mine here in my home and can send pics along with the homemade yard light pics as previously discussed... man, what a night that game was many years ago... gallons of ice-cold labbatts blue, i am sure at least a double and even maybe a triple order of fresh, hot chicken wings at frank and teressas anchor bar ( the original home where chicken wings were "invented"), then a somewhat long trip home, stopping at all the pubs on the way !! happy ? yes.... hung-over/crippled ? ... yes great memories ? yes !!! just a great time !!!
Denny, thank you so much for taking the time to explain that. It’s the way I’d prefer to do my lights. I like Alkem products but would rather scratch build if I can. Would love to see a pic of the ones you made. Sounds fairly straight forward. Really appreciate the tip. As for the Whalers, huge fan. My wife and I had season tickets back before we had kids. I was born in Hartford. It was a very sad day when they left for Carolina. It was kind of the last nail in the coffin for Hartford. But as you say, great memories. They were an awesome team. One of the originals. God bless.
Nice work Paul! I will try the pigments on the rails when I get to ballasting...seen it done with a air brush , but I like the powders ! Also is the new switch one of the new Peco unifrog turnouts? I see it has one piece switch rails . How do you like it? Layout looks great too. Cheers Gregg.
Thanks. Powders all the way. Easier. cheaper and looks great. All my turnouts are peco unifrog except the #8 going to the food plant. That’s an insulfrog. I love peco code 83!
@@HartfordWhaler Thanks Paul! I like one piece switches, and all my mainline turnouts are Code 83 Tillig , from Germany, as they were the only ones with one piece switch rails , but they are expensive and have different tie / sleeper spacing. So I was happy to see Peco release a one piece switch turnout, which I will use on the new layout, along with the Tillig. Keep up the good work. Gregg .
Yes the unifrogs have 1 piece rails and they look and function great. Price isn’t bad considering. And made in the UK not china. Thanks for the nice comments.
Pretty sure they are Durango Press. They are cast and came unpainted. I CA glued the bases to thin styrene sheet then glued that to the ties. Thanks for watching!
That one isn’t in the current budget. Nor do I have the skills for it. But since you mentioned it, I’m going to have you get me started with airbrushing Don ;)
Thanks! You helped me overcome an annoying obstacle!
You are officially the first supporter to give a “super thanks” and I truly appreciate it. So glad the content was helpful. I continue trying to keep it that way. Thanks for watching and for your continued support!!
@@HartfordWhaler Well it was only a tiny contribution but I had to see how it worked because I appreciated your help and I recently added that feature to my own channel. Thanks again and I look forward to more updates from your layout!
I really like your weathering technique. It looks awesome. Nice job.
Thank you very much! Appreciate that.
Terrific scene. Great before and after scene shot to emphasize what you have done. The transformation is awesome.
Thanks! It was a fun project. Appreciate the comment and thank you for watching!
Great before and after! I like the new placement of the tank, it opened it up a lot, maybe better for filming too. Cheers 👍
Thanks! Yeah I’m glad I moved it.
Really enjoyed this video 👍🚂🇺🇸
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching!
Thanx for sharing the track weathering method and products. Gonna use some of these!
Glad it was useful! Thanks for watching and keep me posted on how it goes. Vallejo makes great products (not a sponsor).
That came together nicely, I'm still working on my facility which you gave me a lot of inspiration for their similar looks but very different
Thanks. I’m glad it was inspiring. I just discovered your channel and subscribed. Like the layout!
That looks absolutely amazing! It’s going to be a great addition to your ops!
Thank for the kind words! I’m looking forward to operating with it. Time for a short break from building. I need to run my trains.
Thank you for visiting my channel! Please be sure to subscribe:
www.youtube.com/@HartfordWhaler?sub_confirmation=1
That is one outstanding, switching, layout
Thank you! I really appreciate that! Thanks for watching.
Looking very nice sir. Great work!
Thanks for the compliment. Glad you think so and appreciate you watching!
As always, awesome job
Thank you! And thanks for watching.
This stuff is great for track painting.
Thanks for watching. The rustoleum works great for track paining for sure. I like the Vallejo pigment power too.
Amazing, thanks for sharing. Dave
Thanks Dave. Glad you enjoyed it!
Keeping the fuel tank visible was a good idea
Agree. It adds an interesting visual element.
Looks great!!
Appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Great work!
Thanks! And thanks for watching!
Looks great! Are you going to add a sanding facility?
Thank you! Probably no sanding facility. The layout represents a subdivision of P&W, so the assumption is that the bigger engine facilities with sanding and covered shops would be in Providence or other larger yards. I have to choose my battles!
Excellent, great work
Appreciate that. Thanks for watching!
Can I ask what you used for your between-rails "grates" or "absorption pads" in your refueling area? They are exactly what I've been looking for but haven't been able to find. Thanks.
Kit bashed the Walthers diesel fueling facility. It’s in the below video…
m.th-cam.com/video/SxW9NeIEH7U/w-d-xo.html
@@HartfordWhaler Thank you!
No problem. The below video is part 2 of the project. I just added links to these 2 videos to the description of the video you watched…
m.th-cam.com/video/J0kTxXBFEB0/w-d-xo.html
@@HartfordWhaler Thanks again! I had actually seen the 2nd episode already which is how I knew such a thing existed but didn't ask at the time for whatever reason, I guess figuring I could find it on Walthers as an add-on detail or something. By the time I realized I couldn't find the part, I had forgotten where I had seen it. Fortunately, I caught your most recent video, saw you pan across that area and was reminded where I'd seen those drip pans! Now I'll finally be able to finish 3 different engine service facilities on my layout...I was waiting on the source for that one detail!
Glad you can finish the scene now! The kit has a lot of usable parts so it’ll be worth buying. It’s one of their less expensive kits. Still not inexpensive, but relative to other Walthers kits. Glad I could help. Keep me posted on the build!
Looks great
Appreciate that!
Paul I also want to drop something in your tip jar, as your videos are helping me to plan, and work out the details of my little HO switching layout as well.
Question: After you weather the track with powders, do you seal it with a spray of clear dull coat?
You’re awesome. Good question on the track weathering. The first time I did it, I sprayed the ballast with a mix of water and isopropyl alcohol after applying the powder to “settle” it in. I now find that isn’t necessary and it actually takes away some of the color. Once that power is worked into the ballast, it really doesn’t go anywhere even if you vacuum. I do prefer Vallejo pigments. They are not a sponsor. Thanks again for the generous super thanks and for watching!
@@HartfordWhaler Thanks for all those very helpful clarifications.
Looking good
Thanks 👍
nice work, paul !!! i might have missed it, but do you have plans for overhead lighting for the facility, as lighting and security fences go hand in hand. i just completed my dsf ( diesel svc. facility) and added a small office building, a ptc tower, and a parking area for employees/visitors. you have done a nice job, and i like the simple, little scenes around my pike a lot. dsf's are my favorite things to model , while keeping them "down-sized" adds a bit of realism.... keep up the nice work !!!
Thanks for the nice comments and for the lighting idea! You just gave me a new project. What sort of lighting did you use? I’ll probably not actually light it because I do daytime op’s but I’d definitely put up the light structure. I have to now that you gave me the idea! For parking, I have a dirt road that goes off the edge of the layout by the facility which could be where parking overflow is. There is a small parking area in front of the yard office building which I didn’t really show in this video. It’s a kitbash of a PikeStuff yard office. Currently, I am putting fencing around the entire scene using Alkem chain linked fencing.
good morning paul !!! just having a.m. coffee and got your note... like you, i do not power my lights as i am not into lighting as much as my friends are. first, with regards to answering your question... i noticed you said you used alkem fencing, well, check out their yard lights, which i have 8 of... they are beautiful but expensive fine brass kits that are prototypically correct !!! here is what i did ... i bought my alkem yard lights years ago but wanted several more modern lights so i kitbashed 8 with this recipe... i went to my local hardware store and bought some brass rod w/ correct scale diameter of a modern lightpost in a yard. then i "cut plastic" ( very finely sanded, too) to look like the modern light fixtures ( 4 arms branching off the center of the fixture) seen today way up at the top of the rod. i bought evergreen square plastic rod with a hole down the middle that would accept the brass rod's diameter and glued it to the bottom of the pole as a cement base ( about 1/2 long). i noticed there was a round disk like part to the top of the modern lights, so i went to walmart and bought buttons that were the right size to fit on top of the light fixture itself. of course i cut-off and sanded the part of the button where the string goes thru so it would "fit" on top of the light itself. then i glued that on top and painted everything med. gray. i left about 1" of brass rod out the bottom of the evergreen plastic bottom so i could drill a hole in the roadbed for a tight fit. finally i took yellow tape used for big r/c cars and put 2 "stripes " around the evergreen base. a bit of work but nice in the end. i will send pics if you want via a friends phone next time he visits. the light "arms"are white. blessings to you, paul... denny@@HartfordWhaler
paul... question... are you a hartford whalers fan from way back as your name suggests ? here is why i ask. the very last game in the old "aud" up in buffalo,ny ( i am 45 minutes directly south of it) years back was against the whalers and i scalped a ticket for like $75 and sat 5-6 rows up from the ice... there was an all-out 2 team brawl, a real donnybrook with both goalies fighting as well at mid ice !!! what a night !!! the sabres organization gave us plastic ticket frames so we could save our very last game at the aud tickets forever !!! i still have mine here in my home and can send pics along with the homemade yard light pics as previously discussed... man, what a night that game was many years ago... gallons of ice-cold labbatts blue, i am sure at least a double and even maybe a triple order of fresh, hot chicken wings at frank and teressas anchor bar ( the original home where chicken wings were "invented"), then a somewhat long trip home, stopping at all the pubs on the way !! happy ? yes.... hung-over/crippled ? ... yes great memories ? yes !!! just a great time !!!
Denny, thank you so much for taking the time to explain that. It’s the way I’d prefer to do my lights. I like Alkem products but would rather scratch build if I can. Would love to see a pic of the ones you made. Sounds fairly straight forward. Really appreciate the tip. As for the Whalers, huge fan. My wife and I had season tickets back before we had kids. I was born in Hartford. It was a very sad day when they left for Carolina. It was kind of the last nail in the coffin for Hartford. But as you say, great memories. They were an awesome team. One of the originals. God bless.
Nice work Paul! I will try the pigments on the rails when I get to ballasting...seen it done with a air brush , but I like the powders ! Also is the new switch one of the new Peco unifrog turnouts? I see it has one piece switch rails . How do you like it?
Layout looks great too.
Cheers Gregg.
Thanks. Powders all the way. Easier. cheaper and looks great. All my turnouts are peco unifrog except the #8 going to the food plant. That’s an insulfrog. I love peco code 83!
@@HartfordWhaler Thanks Paul! I like one piece switches, and all my mainline turnouts are Code 83 Tillig , from Germany, as they were the only ones with one piece switch rails , but they are expensive and have different tie / sleeper spacing. So I was happy to see Peco release a one piece switch turnout, which I will use on the new layout, along with the Tillig.
Keep up the good work.
Gregg .
Yes the unifrogs have 1 piece rails and they look and function great. Price isn’t bad considering. And made in the UK not china. Thanks for the nice comments.
@@HartfordWhaler My pleasure mate.
Fantastic. What did you use to make the steel plates and concrete platforms?
Thank you! I kitbashed the Walthers Diesel Fueling facility. My prior video below talks about it.
m.th-cam.com/video/SxW9NeIEH7U/w-d-xo.html
👍👍👍
Thanks!
Who's derail's are you using
Pretty sure they are Durango Press. They are cast and came unpainted. I CA glued the bases to thin styrene sheet then glued that to the ties. Thanks for watching!
You need an airbrush
That one isn’t in the current budget. Nor do I have the skills for it. But since you mentioned it, I’m going to have you get me started with airbrushing Don ;)