Thank you very much! I got a product that was unusable, and wanted do at least have a chance to use it. I figured the effort would be worthwhile if I could help a few of the other backers make some Lemonade out of the lemons.
you solved my problem! thank you! now there are three options for me 1. makning adapter for focus 2. use ruler and the distence chart 3. sell this whole stuff on ebay
@@DavidCWiley Yes, it's true. I regret the past three years. While contemplating creating an adapter as the second option, I immediately sold my camera body after seeing it scratched due to the slide lock. It's a disappointing situation.
You're brilliant, thank you! I got mine hardly dismounted again. My BF had to use force, so I won't touch it soon enough again, still, I like the idea. And ja, communication was a disaster. They never answered. I don't have a problem with project lasting long, but I have a problem with bad communication. I will try to make myself such a spacer. Also I think it's bit of a problem, that there's no clue of where to find a manual or whatsoever. It feels a bit, like they wanted to get rid of what was a great idea and still could be - and ja, maybe making such a spacer a delivering such one to the backers would solve some disharmony....
Just got the Nons. The side ejection is the only negative as you mentioned. After watching your video it is a small price to pay for accurate focus. I was messing around and shooting indoors f4 at shutter speed 1/15 and the shots are sharp and nail focus. Everyone watching should go with the cheaper option in the nons back.
If I had the choice today, I would probably also go for one of the other backs, and a lot of people have recommended the NONS. but as I said in the video, this is about making the most out of what we got with the Hasselback. (make some lemonade with that lemon?)
@@yodayoungling that totally makes sense. I always watch videos before purchasing, I just wanted to put a note for anyone looking to purchase as a potential alternative with fewer downsides.
@@yodayoungling , ok so i had the 4.3mm spacer printed by the help of my friend and i have achieved tack sharp focus on my 180mm f4 @f4. Downside is that i cannot put the focusing hood on and achieve infinity focus.
The focus shift can be marked on each lens like the IR mark, and then you don't need to use a table. A 2mm shift has the same amount of rotation on the lens helical. But a screen spacer is a nicer solution.
also that ground glass idea isn't new, the arcbody and flexbody had this system for the 120 backs (12-on\A-12) so that you could apply movements, focus etc. with the back off, and then like a monorail view camera, the film then goes in, and you shoot. (there was a unique feature of this, there was a slot in this gg frame, which allowed for "perspective correction slides" to be inserted, which if tilted 10/15/20 deg. would nullify the distortion, so one could still focus normally; this also even allowed the regular prism and hood to be attached).
Check out the link to my website, i just added dementions and a 3d model for the spacer. If you can get it 3d printed it might help get you better focus :)
I am not sure if my experience can help. I had been in shutter jam trouble since I attached HB unit and unable to remove for 3 months. But I found TH-cam video which solve shutter jam by push down film ejection hook to bottom. It helped to solve shutter jam. 2ndly, I fire and wind crank and attempted to remove. It does not work. Fire shutter, then try to remove( do not wind crank!) Hope you can remove unit.
the focus issue is NORMAL, the Hassy PB from John of "hassleblad the expert" TH-cam channel, and even the Lomography Lomograflok back {for 4x5" film cameras} has some kind of spacer to account for this back focus (physics, the cartridge is inside a shell, of which the edges are thick, and the shell itself is a few mm thick), this is the reason the focus is off, the distance means the film is NOT on designed in focus plane with the camera manufacturers, who assume a certain kind of film inserted into it, hence a set focus (the shims in a lens mount, for eg. are for this purpose too). In the V systems case a spacer shim (focus mask) is inserted above or below the "ground glass" focus screen, this calibrates the focus, so the lens tube setting is correct!-DON'T adjust the lens shims or mounting flange spacers , THEY are fine, for normal 120 backs!, just this stock is further back, so get the masks installed, but paint some visible part of it, so when using 120 you don't forget to remove it.
Hmm, not sure, I have no experience with the FC. Maybe the firing pin behaves differently on your model? The firing pin is the only thing that actually prevents the back from being removed. It has to be flush with the body to attach or remove the back.
yep i had trouble with that once, are you trying with Mini or Square? i oddly found it easier with square. Be sure to remove the metal dark slide, Try slow and steady presure, and push the winding knob slightly inwards. at least with mine, the hardest part was getting the instax dark slide removed. after that the pictures came out fine. Also check if the hook in the hasselback is getting caught on the "cloth tape" behind it (i pulled off the tape on mine.) good luck!
unbelievable how much energy and design effort you have invested. I admire your patience...
Thank you very much! I got a product that was unusable, and wanted do at least have a chance to use it. I figured the effort would be worthwhile if I could help a few of the other backers make some Lemonade out of the lemons.
Great review, overview, user manual!
you solved my problem!
thank you! now there are three options for me
1. makning adapter for focus
2. use ruler and the distence chart
3. sell this whole stuff on ebay
I would love to do #1, but I'd rather #3... Good Lord, I think i have been bamboozled by Escura
@@DavidCWiley Yes, it's true. I regret the past three years. While contemplating creating an adapter as the second option, I immediately sold my camera body after seeing it scratched due to the slide lock. It's a disappointing situation.
@@오환건국쵝오 , I hear you my friend.
sigh..... i need to crack my head on this... pretty disapointing but nevertheless another challenge.
You're brilliant, thank you! I got mine hardly dismounted again. My BF had to use force, so I won't touch it soon enough again, still, I like the idea. And ja, communication was a disaster. They never answered. I don't have a problem with project lasting long, but I have a problem with bad communication. I will try to make myself such a spacer. Also I think it's bit of a problem, that there's no clue of where to find a manual or whatsoever. It feels a bit, like they wanted to get rid of what was a great idea and still could be - and ja, maybe making such a spacer a delivering such one to the backers would solve some disharmony....
Thanks greatly appreciated!
Glad it helped you out 👍
thanks. now i got to do option 3
Thanks John-Michael!
Just got the Nons. The side ejection is the only negative as you mentioned. After watching your video it is a small price to pay for accurate focus. I was messing around and shooting indoors f4 at shutter speed 1/15 and the shots are sharp and nail focus. Everyone watching should go with the cheaper option in the nons back.
Too late for me and the rest of the escura backers. Lucky you Matt
If I had the choice today, I would probably also go for one of the other backs, and a lot of people have recommended the NONS. but as I said in the video, this is about making the most out of what we got with the Hasselback. (make some lemonade with that lemon?)
@@yodayoungling that totally makes sense. I always watch videos before purchasing, I just wanted to put a note for anyone looking to purchase as a potential alternative with fewer downsides.
@@MattiusGlutius ya for sure :)
@@yodayoungling , ok so i had the 4.3mm spacer printed by the help of my friend and i have achieved tack sharp focus on my 180mm f4 @f4. Downside is that i cannot put the focusing hood on and achieve infinity focus.
In the third solution what should be the thickness of the frame underneath?
The focus shift can be marked on each lens like the IR mark, and then you don't need to use a table. A 2mm shift has the same amount of rotation on the lens helical. But a screen spacer is a nicer solution.
good point, i dident think to try that
Great idea, for I can't user the "lift up the focusing screen" method with my camera.
sorry to intrude sir, but do you mean rotate towards the left or towards the right with the left hand? Sorry for the stupid question.
@@DavidCWiley I haven’t looked at mine but it would be on the side that makes the focus further away
My shutter was jammed, and I tried to push the pin, but still not release the shutter. Any luck on other way.
also that ground glass idea isn't new, the arcbody and flexbody had this system for the 120 backs (12-on\A-12) so that you could apply movements, focus etc. with the back off, and then like a monorail view camera, the film then goes in, and you shoot. (there was a unique feature of this, there was a slot in this gg frame, which allowed for "perspective correction slides" to be inserted, which if tilted 10/15/20 deg. would nullify the distortion, so one could still focus normally; this also even allowed the regular prism and hood to be attached).
Is the waist level viewfinder cannot be used if the spacer is used? Thanks!
Hey, thanks for the help. :) I'll try to get the spacer for the Hasselblad focusing screen, any suggestions ?
Check out the link to my website, i just added dementions and a 3d model for the spacer. If you can get it 3d printed it might help get you better focus :)
Plastic card right thickness. Cheap
I am not sure if my experience can help. I had been in shutter jam trouble since I attached HB unit and unable to remove for 3 months. But I found TH-cam video which solve shutter jam by push down film ejection hook to bottom. It helped to solve shutter jam. 2ndly, I fire and wind crank and attempted to remove. It does not work.
Fire shutter, then try to remove( do not wind crank!)
Hope you can remove unit.
the focus issue is NORMAL, the Hassy PB from John of "hassleblad the expert" TH-cam channel, and even the Lomography Lomograflok back {for 4x5" film cameras} has some kind of spacer to account for this back focus (physics, the cartridge is inside a shell, of which the edges are thick, and the shell itself is a few mm thick), this is the reason the focus is off, the distance means the film is NOT on designed in focus plane with the camera manufacturers, who assume a certain kind of film inserted into it, hence a set focus (the shims in a lens mount, for eg. are for this purpose too).
In the V systems case a spacer shim (focus mask) is inserted above or below the "ground glass" focus screen, this calibrates the focus, so the lens tube setting is correct!-DON'T adjust the lens shims or mounting flange spacers , THEY are fine, for normal 120 backs!, just this stock is further back, so get the masks installed, but paint some visible part of it, so when using 120 you don't forget to remove it.
Any tips for dismounting other than in the video? Using a hasselblad fc2000. Shutter works propperly but cant get this piece of sh.. of the camera.
Hmm, not sure, I have no experience with the FC. Maybe the firing pin behaves differently on your model? The firing pin is the only thing that actually prevents the back from being removed. It has to be flush with the body to attach or remove the back.
Any experience with the fact that it doesn’t eject the first slide?
yep i had trouble with that once, are you trying with Mini or Square? i oddly found it easier with square.
Be sure to remove the metal dark slide, Try slow and steady presure, and push the winding knob slightly inwards. at least with mine, the hardest part was getting the instax dark slide removed. after that the pictures came out fine.
Also check if the hook in the hasselback is getting caught on the "cloth tape" behind it (i pulled off the tape on mine.)
good luck!
Thanks for the info sir. The info is very good.
Well, I think i want to sell mine. Anyone wants it? I have not used it yet.
No one has received their backs.
what even is the point
Junk. Mine jammed with its first mounting, jammed the shutter and just barely was dismounted. Run away.
It took me two packs of film to figure mine out
worst piece of crap I ever bought since 1979. Event the USSR camera were not that poorly made ! avoid at all cost (pun)
Had a Zenith 80 since 1968..still going strong despite Soviet quality control...or lack of it!.....
Rubbish quantity of these back light leak problem