Interesting. The principle appears to be similar to the P+S Technik Pro35 which allowed a 35mm depth of field on a 2/3” broadcast camera long before Alexa and Red existed. That adapter was sometimes referred to as a “flip” because the image projected onto the ground glass was inverted and therefore you had to “flip” the image internally with the camera’s recording options. I’m assuming this f0 design also needs to be flipped? There’s an interesting film from called “Bellflower” which screened at Sundance 2011. It was shot with a home-made bellows lens similar to yours with the SI-2K camera. Check it out. Looks amazing.
Hi Champagne, we do discuss this in the video above. Any lens will flip an image, so yes the image on the ground glass appears upside-down. And yes, the F-Zero Camera works like a depth of field adapter such as the Pro35 you mentioned. Our taking camera actually flips the image right-side up, but the camera's internal processing flips it AGAIN because it's expecting an upside-down image. So as shown in the video, I mount the camera upside-down in order to record a right-side-up image. In total, four flips to get a right-side up image.
@@tnp651 at the moment I only have one production assembly, which is the single-fresnel version. It vignettes pretty heavily, but is also very correctible. The final images are stunning. If I can get some more parts in, I'll try to assemble double-fresnel version as well.
I assume the taking camera lens focus is set to minimum distance (i.e. distance to the sensor) and never changes. But what about aperture of taking camera + lens? Can it be stopped down to compensate for the brightness of the image on the intermediate sensor? If so, how does that change the resulting photographs or video?
You're correct that the distance from taking camera to intermediate projection does not change, so it's left at that distance. Aperture on the taking camera essentially dims the image. It doesn't have much effect otherwise.
Nick, I am one of your KS backers. I have everything (including bellows) and am ready to do this. But when I saw this video I realised I do not have a suitable tripod. Do you have any guidance to offer on a suitable tripod?
Hi Nikhil! Tripod selection depends on your intended use case. When I was testing the prototype, I used a beefy photo-oriented tripod called the Linhof Stativ R. It's the same one Nikolas uses in his project: th-cam.com/video/-4uzyhbDFas/w-d-xo.html - but its disadvantage is that you don't get any counterbalance. And therefore panning and tilting is unassisted and can be choppy. If all you only care about stills photos, this may not matter to you. So just get a good photo tripod which can balance a lot of weight, and a good panning head. If you DO care about video, then you need a fluid head with good counterbalance capability. Personally, I bought a Vinten 250 tripod (brand new they are very expensive, but can be found used for lower prices). I bought used from this great dealer of used tripods: www.zoompointphoto.com/collections/tripods - you want a counterbalance system that can handle at least 150% of the weight of your complete system (if not 200%+). My complete setup weighs 25-30lbs total, and the Vinten 250 can counterbalance up to 77lbs (at 4-inches center of gravity above the plate). If you want a good new option, try Proaim. They have great budget options and I own some of their products, including the 100mm bowl tripod, which is heavy but fantastic. You'd need a head for it, they also sell some excellent geared heads which would fit the bill, if you're willing to use that method (crank wheels): www.proaim.com/collections/tripods Good luck!
@@fzerocamera Thanks a lot, this is very helpful. I see you have been facing a lot of doubt in the comments, but I am not one of the doubters. I think I will get what I am looking for out of this system eventually.
Me personally, I don't really play with tilt-shift parts. But it's definitely possible with this system - you can set up the parts in lots of different ways.
surprised that you're not using a macro lens, for the short conjugate, and flatter field, and, usually, the best resolution...
Interesting. The principle appears to be similar to the P+S Technik Pro35 which allowed a 35mm depth of field on a 2/3” broadcast camera long before Alexa and Red existed. That adapter was sometimes referred to as a “flip” because the image projected onto the ground glass was inverted and therefore you had to “flip” the image internally with the camera’s recording options. I’m assuming this f0 design also needs to be flipped? There’s an interesting film from called “Bellflower” which screened at Sundance 2011. It was shot with a home-made bellows lens similar to yours with the SI-2K camera. Check it out. Looks amazing.
Hi Champagne, we do discuss this in the video above. Any lens will flip an image, so yes the image on the ground glass appears upside-down. And yes, the F-Zero Camera works like a depth of field adapter such as the Pro35 you mentioned. Our taking camera actually flips the image right-side up, but the camera's internal processing flips it AGAIN because it's expecting an upside-down image. So as shown in the video, I mount the camera upside-down in order to record a right-side-up image. In total, four flips to get a right-side up image.
at least give us the result photo
Next video will be sample images and footage!
@@fzerocamera Please include examples with one Fresnel lens and two
@@tnp651 at the moment I only have one production assembly, which is the single-fresnel version. It vignettes pretty heavily, but is also very correctible. The final images are stunning. If I can get some more parts in, I'll try to assemble double-fresnel version as well.
send me one so i can review and use in the field (i cover live music events)
we needed a demonstration of how it looks, and maybe what the live photo shooting experience is
You can find that right here: th-cam.com/video/cr5i25Hrq3M/w-d-xo.html
I assume the taking camera lens focus is set to minimum distance (i.e. distance to the sensor) and never changes. But what about aperture of taking camera + lens? Can it be stopped down to compensate for the brightness of the image on the intermediate sensor? If so, how does that change the resulting photographs or video?
You're correct that the distance from taking camera to intermediate projection does not change, so it's left at that distance. Aperture on the taking camera essentially dims the image. It doesn't have much effect otherwise.
Nick, I am one of your KS backers. I have everything (including bellows) and am ready to do this. But when I saw this video I realised I do not have a suitable tripod. Do you have any guidance to offer on a suitable tripod?
Hi Nikhil! Tripod selection depends on your intended use case. When I was testing the prototype, I used a beefy photo-oriented tripod called the Linhof Stativ R. It's the same one Nikolas uses in his project: th-cam.com/video/-4uzyhbDFas/w-d-xo.html - but its disadvantage is that you don't get any counterbalance. And therefore panning and tilting is unassisted and can be choppy. If all you only care about stills photos, this may not matter to you. So just get a good photo tripod which can balance a lot of weight, and a good panning head.
If you DO care about video, then you need a fluid head with good counterbalance capability. Personally, I bought a Vinten 250 tripod (brand new they are very expensive, but can be found used for lower prices). I bought used from this great dealer of used tripods: www.zoompointphoto.com/collections/tripods - you want a counterbalance system that can handle at least 150% of the weight of your complete system (if not 200%+). My complete setup weighs 25-30lbs total, and the Vinten 250 can counterbalance up to 77lbs (at 4-inches center of gravity above the plate).
If you want a good new option, try Proaim. They have great budget options and I own some of their products, including the 100mm bowl tripod, which is heavy but fantastic. You'd need a head for it, they also sell some excellent geared heads which would fit the bill, if you're willing to use that method (crank wheels): www.proaim.com/collections/tripods
Good luck!
@@fzerocamera Thanks a lot, this is very helpful. I see you have been facing a lot of doubt in the comments, but I am not one of the doubters. I think I will get what I am looking for out of this system eventually.
Would you ever add additional linear rails and/ or rotary table to make it tilt-shift capable?
Me personally, I don't really play with tilt-shift parts. But it's definitely possible with this system - you can set up the parts in lots of different ways.
What's the trasmitance on cameras like this?
It depends on how you set up your fresnel lenses. But generally you can expect something like T8. It's not for astrophotography.
what's the point of this in 2024?
You'll get shots at an effective aperture down to around f0.5 without blowing out images.
Same as it was before 2024: to capture images that are impossible to achieve with any other method.
@@fzerocamera oh wow! it does the impossible, what no other lens can do. Well good luck to ya