This has to be one of the greatest displays of patience and tactics to overcome a challenging mechanical job. In my youth, I had a beater car that provided numerous challenges like this. Stuck bolt type brake adjusters in the rear wheel cylinder was the first of many. Always great to see your lessons.
i had the EXACT SAME SET of problems as you did. i tried heat and broke the end of the crank off of my Dolly 119. these saws are THE BEST saws made IMO. but the Germans take HELLUVA pride in their craftsmanship and can OVERTHINK ALLOTA STUFF. The P/C on tgis saw is FLAWLESS....for a 1985 saw...but the dude that i got it from ran good mix and stayed SHARP. He gave it to me cause the ignition went out and he was like "Im too old to run the saw anyways". so thanks for the vid. cause ive never tried one of the chips. i took another good ignition off of my good 120 Dolly and put it together and the timing was off on it and instead of monkeying around with my obsolete 120 SEM ignition...i decided to try a chip..so thanks for the video TIN....it helps TREMENDOUSLY
I've been fascinated by that Dolmar and have waiting for the story unfold. I'm glad you got back to it. Back when I was hunting for a good trail maintenance saw I would be carrying for miles on a sling I looked at Shihl and Husqvarna, then I saw a group of saws in 1990 that appeared to be even more expensive than Stihl and that was Sachs Dolmar. I don't know if a 1990 Sachs Dolmar saw is thought of as being above its Stihl competition, but back then I thought it might be. What got me was there wasn't a single Sachs Dolmar saw I looked at on the display under $1,000! I'd never seen such an expensive chainsaw group before. Even if somebody would have given me a Sachs Dolmar I'd been concerned about getting common parts for it. In that unlikely event I would have definitely found way to keep that Dolmar good and healthy.
Back in the '70s S-D was sold by a local parts store. A 112/114 (50cc) model was $500, outrageous then. Those would outcut anything available then & give fits to most saws today. Reason: 14000 rpm! You could turn 'em down but they didn't like it.
Hi Tinman, I'm happy that you use my link to solv spark out !!!!!There is another good idea to fix Spark as well.I fix my dolmars 114 and 119 with no Spark both ways and both ways working!!!! Dominik from Poland
Tinman, my friend, the next time your using that puller try to snug up the center bolt and then go around bumping the three outer bolts just a little bit each time with an impact. Makes all the difference in the world!
Very cool to see the puller work, only one I have ever had fight that hard was a old 2 stroke Jacobson lawn mower. When it finally turned loose it sounded like a rifle going off.
That's a Sucks Dolmar for you....they vibrate bolts out or tight tight....typical. Have fun with it....Enjoy watching you...yes the old universal ignition from Oregon have used many of them back in the day....Thank you....Shoe in SW Oregon.
I did the same conversion on a older model SOLO back pack blower using that little solid state points eliminator module. What you removed was the exciter coil and trigger module. Splice the new kill wire to the positive connection and you should be good to go. Works great.
I did that on my 041 Stihl but still no spark. My electronic is a German one just like this video. Hooked the positive terminal to the little wire on the coil. And the negative to the ground. For the moment I left the shut off wire off. Is there a way to check this coil? Could I use the Sweden electronic unit with this module? Could I buy an early point and condenser system and then use this module? I know all 3 of these electronic systems use a different flywheel. I wonder if they ever have any problems with this module?,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
The only problem with this modification for me, is that this fix works for the Bosh module, but I have never seen it done for the Sen ignition,. Unfortunately, all the dead ignition units (and flywheels) hanging on my wall are Sen units. I read on another forum, that you probably have to adjust the timing after installing the module. I don't know why this is so, it wasn't explained, but the person doing the modification could not start the engine after doing the conversion, and after adjusting the timing, it ran like jack the bear. Another thing to remember, is that if you have the Bosch ignition, you have to use the Bosch flywheel. Same goes for the Sen. Again, I don't know if it is placement of the magnets, but I just know they are different. Great video
Always do it just the way you did it, i heard you mention the impact, do not use impact when you are using a puller unless it is on a large shaft and bearing but not on a chainsaw flywheel removal.
The dang flywheels on these saws are menaces. As I mentioned in the previous video, my 120 Super behaved exactly the same, and the crank broke exactly the same way. I wound up recessing the flywheel .100", just to get more purchase and ease of mind. But use a depth micrometer to see how much you can take off first, if you choose to do so. These Dolmar saws fight every step of the way. Best wishes!
I just did a Stihl 041. The condenser is bad so I guess I will get that Oregon chip. Tip for getting the flywheel off is I used a Steering wheel puller and a Milwaukee 1/4 m18 impact 2853-20. It works awesome for those just put it on the lowest setting tighten till it doesn't move wait 10sec then tighten again when it comes off it sounds like a firecracker scary but doesn't hurt anything.
An old trick I learned for dealing with stuck tapers, heat the area a bit and then apply a wax candle. The wax melts into the joint and will help it pop. I didn’t believe it until I tried it. Works better than liquid penetrants. Also hitting the outer edge of the flywheel will “rock” it sideways and make it pop, when you have the puller attached.
got a stihl 056 with the same issues, got it running with fuel in the carb and then found out it had 2 cylinder bolts loose and 2 missing , replaced those and tightened the other 2 , now it has no spark ,and I also found the bare wire to the coil from the switch , in the process of pulling the flywheel , now I know what to expect, then clean the carb and I should be good to go
I have timed mine a few days ago. Would be interesting to see what the saw times at. My concrete cutter conversion is very hot out of the box, 96° at the exhaust, 73° intake and 25° blowdown. Just needed to widen and shape everything. These things seem to have super small lower tranfers. It wakes them right up if you get them flowing fast. Cool thing that you've got spark now👍🏼
Thanks for sharing your experience, the SEM ignition is a bit different it contains two pieces, the ignition coil and a big black block, could you please explain how can I convert it too
On Stihl 041 saws, first they had points, then later they had German electronic and Sweden electronic ignition systems. They all used different flywheels. But I hooked it up and no spark. So either the coil is bad or the module is bad. Not sure how to test the German coil,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
It is possible to melt or cut the epoxy out of the stock module and solder in a new capacitor, I have done that on Stihls but this fix looks to be easier. Now that I see how much you were able to grind away for flywheel clearance I am going to fix a 056 mag this way. The Stihl flywheel puller and crank tip protectors are worth the cost and cheaper than replacing a broken crank. Be mindful of how tight you make flywheel nuts as it is easy to snap the end off a crankshaft over tightening one. Thanks for sharing, looking forward to seeing this saw in the wood.
I have a Stihl 041 with this German electronic ignition. I dug out the epoxy out of the center part and then you can mount the module on it's side and not half to grind on it. And this system I guess works good as long as the coil is good or the module is working. I still have no spark after following instructions + to the coil wire and negative to ground. Not sure how to test the coil,,,,,,,,,,,,
Hi tinman, I brought a 153 new In the late 80's 30" bar & 404 chain, and had Spark issues soon after, So under warranty took back to the Dealer, who done the same as you to the crankshaft, Or worse, In the end they couldn't fix problem, I toke saw back, learned how to start It to use, But in my infinite wisdom, I traded It In on a Dolmar 6800i, got a measly $250. for it and started right up for the Dealer, I'm still angered with Myself for it but Money was tight at time!
Looks like a good saw to stay away from if your into tinkering. It's probably why BMW's and Mercs seem so cheap second hand. I worked on Jaguars in the early 2000's, they had 8 onboard computers.
I worked on getting a stuck flywheel off once for a whole week! 335 rotax. I welded up a fantastic puller and tightened it up to the max every night after supper! Tight eh
I work on small single cylinder Rotax’s. Only way some flywheels will come loose is to apply heat via small shop torch and smack the puller tension bolt head with a heavy ball peen hammer. They’ll eventually release with quite a bang !
Good one and helpfull ! Tou going very thorough and illustraits very perfect. This is a common difficulty...in the beginning....to loose that magneto wheel. Thx for sharing...and now i guess i will get off mine from Partner r12. Need to look for a tree piont or arm, pull ! :-)
I use the air hammer on larger flywheels like Briggs and Stratton engines, and I almost tried it on a little Poulan 2150 I'm porting the other night but I couldn't bring myself to do it, I chickened out lol . I would like to have a brass end for the point to try it on a saw.
To further explain ohm testing the kill switch so there's no confusion. With the switch off there should be no continuity and the dvom should read ol. With the switch on, there should be continuity with a fairly low resistance. If you read Ol with the switch on you most likely have a broken wire. If you have continuity with switch off you have a short to ground somewhere. 🤙
Is there a similar solution for an SEM electronic ignition. Mine is a type GE. And it is on a Stihl 041 av. My coil is good. Any info you can share is much appreciated.
haha dolmars are notorious for this i always put a little break fluid/trannyfluid and let it set with pressure on the three way puller and next morning it pops lol
Wow, it was tight. Had a 268 like that, was changing the seal but had to apply more heat then I was comfortable with. It all turned out in the end and the saw was cutting a cord of tamarac today and will be tomorrow as well. Always good stuff Tinman, Mahalo 🤙🤙🤙
I have that same Bosch set up on my 045, 056. It sparks but it's way out of time. I also have a SEM ignition that loses spark after about 3 minutes of running good. Which one is better to fix with a magic Oregon chip?
I have the same Bosch set up on my 041 Stihl saw. But I followed his video hooking positive to the little coil wire and negative to ground. But still no spark. Can this coil be tested? Maybe the coil or the module is bad,,,,,,,,,I also have the SEM Sweden version. I'm not sure if I can use one of those with this module. Even the older 041 had points and condenser. Maybe I could use the module on one of them. Just beware the flywheels are all different,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Hello. recently I bought a Homelite 410 that has a cracked intake boot and does not put oil automatically but only manually. Can you make a video with this chainsaw in the future? In Romania it is very difficult to find parts for these chainsaws.
The intake boots on that model was crap in the 90's. For obsolete saw parts like that your going to have to make your own, I have used inner tubes before and they last for about 4-5 years before the fuel and heat destroy them.
I have the same German electronic ignition in my saw. The part in the middle that has plastic and the little coil wire and kill wire go into that plastic center piece. I took a screwdriver and dug all of that out in the middle since it is no longer used. Then I was able to mount the module on it's side and not half to grind it down to clear the flywheel. I wired the + terminal to the little wire on the coil. And the - terminal to ground. And temporary left the kill wire off. But I still cannot get any spark. So I'm assuming that the coil must be bad. How do you test that coil? Can the Sweden SEM electronic ignition be used with this module? I have 3 of them. I'm sure there is no way to get a coil for the German electronic ignition as it is not separate like the Sweden version is. Perhaps I could buy a older point system with a flywheel and use the module to replace the points and condenser, and then use that coil to get spark. Still not sure what to do,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
I've used these chips on two Homelites now (a Super XL-130 and an XL 2). It got spark going, but it reversed the on/off switch. I'm no electrician, so I'm pretty stumped. Any way to correct that?
Hey ! Do you have allot of extreme weather where you are ? Is it mid west ? Storms ? Hmm I am at my place in Sweden and weather ok. But we had an extreme drouth in 2018...summer.
This is a good fix except for one thing. If the bosch coil is no good, then you will still have no spark. I did this and now it has a very weak spark. Since the coil is not available unless I come across another Bosch electronic ignition, I need to consider buying a flywheel and a point system from and earlier saw and use the chip on that type ignition. I have seen no fix for the SEM Sweden electronic ignition which I have several of those. If your coil is good then this is a good fix,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
man i feel kinda bad i was one of the people saying air hammer never failed me part of me wonders if something happened and the flywheel galled right to the crank shaft man that seemed stuck nice outcome though 2 stroke life...
I have the same Bosch system and I dug out the plastic in the middle and then you can mount it on it's side and not half to grind on it. But apparently my coil is no good because there is still no spark. Or a bad module,,,,,,,,,,,,,
That part cost 83.00$ is that what you paid i thought i seen 25$ it cost ya did price go up thats amazon 83.82$ i have same saw buddy at work gave it to me if sparked first time i pulled the cord nice bright blue spark an nothing after that what is this chip you speak off where do I get one first I hear a chip so I'm curious maybe this saw needs it I'm gonna watch on see if I can pick up on what your doing cheers
Get yourself a big hammer! As funny as it sounds a heavy hammer works better than a light one. A heavy hammer will work much better than the light air hammer.
I have a Stihl 041 with this German ignition and I hooked the positive to the little coil wire and the negative to the ground. And left the kill switch wire off. But still no spark. So either the coil must be bad or the chip is bad. Can these coils be tested?,,,,,,,,,,,,I do have 3 SEM Sweden electronic ignitions too. But not sure you can use this chip for that system. The older 041's had points and condenser. Maybe I can use this chip on one of those. I do know the flywheels are all different,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Before I changed the wires on the chip, when I have a drill turning the engine over I can feel a very weak spark, so I think the chip is working. I tried positive ground by changing the 2 wires on the chip, and then no weak spark even. So I must have a bad coil and you can't buy those coils because they are not separate from the other parts on the plate. I do have 3 SEM Sweden electronic systems but I have seen no videos using this chip with 1 of them. Can I use a SEM Sweden electronic system with this chip?
This has to be one of the greatest displays of patience and tactics to overcome a challenging mechanical job. In my youth, I had a beater car that provided numerous challenges like this. Stuck bolt type brake adjusters in the rear wheel cylinder was the first of many. Always great to see your lessons.
Hi Tinman just done this module conversion and the dolmar 123 runs better than ever total cost £8.70. Regards from the UK.
Bu modülün tam adı nedir
i had the EXACT SAME SET of problems as you did. i tried heat and broke the end of the crank off of my Dolly 119. these saws are THE BEST saws made IMO. but the Germans take HELLUVA pride in their craftsmanship and can OVERTHINK ALLOTA STUFF. The P/C on tgis saw is FLAWLESS....for a 1985 saw...but the dude that i got it from ran good mix and stayed SHARP. He gave it to me cause the ignition went out and he was like "Im too old to run the saw anyways". so thanks for the vid. cause ive never tried one of the chips. i took another good ignition off of my good 120 Dolly and put it together and the timing was off on it and instead of monkeying around with my obsolete 120 SEM ignition...i decided to try a chip..so thanks for the video TIN....it helps TREMENDOUSLY
I've been fascinated by that Dolmar and have waiting for the story unfold. I'm glad you got back to it. Back when I was hunting for a good trail maintenance saw I would be carrying for miles on a sling I looked at Shihl and Husqvarna, then I saw a group of saws in 1990 that appeared to be even more expensive than Stihl and that was Sachs Dolmar. I don't know if a 1990 Sachs Dolmar saw is thought of as being above its Stihl competition, but back then I thought it might be. What got me was there wasn't a single Sachs Dolmar saw I looked at on the display under $1,000! I'd never seen such an expensive chainsaw group before. Even if somebody would have given me a Sachs Dolmar I'd been concerned about getting common parts for it. In that unlikely event I would have definitely found way to keep that Dolmar good and healthy.
Back in the '70s S-D was sold by a local parts store. A 112/114 (50cc) model was $500, outrageous then. Those would outcut anything available then & give fits to most saws today. Reason: 14000 rpm! You could turn 'em down but they didn't like it.
Hi Tinman,
I'm happy that you use my link to solv spark out !!!!!There is another good idea to fix Spark as well.I fix my dolmars 114 and 119 with no Spark both ways and both ways working!!!!
Dominik from Poland
Dominik can you post a link to the link here in the comments so we can see it. Thanks 😊
@@jasondavis2810 noo probs!!!!
Tinman, my friend, the next time your using that puller try to snug up the center bolt and then go around bumping the three outer bolts just a little bit each time with an impact. Makes all the difference in the world!
Very cool to see the puller work, only one I have ever had fight that hard was a old 2 stroke Jacobson lawn mower. When it finally turned loose it sounded like a rifle going off.
What a clean retrofit!! So gracious of Nate to share that saw with this community❤ especially after he'd been after it for so long!
I can't wait to see that dolmar run. I would bet the torque of that saw will amaze!
That's a Sucks Dolmar for you....they vibrate bolts out or tight tight....typical. Have fun with it....Enjoy watching you...yes the old universal ignition from Oregon have used many of them back in the day....Thank you....Shoe in SW Oregon.
Ive got a 056 AV that is gonna love your fix, buddy !
Thanks for sticking to it and showing the whole process.
I love those ignition chips my grandfather is very perplexed on how it works i just told him “magic” i put it on my pioneer super620 hotsaw
I did the same conversion on a older model SOLO back pack blower using that little solid state points eliminator module. What you removed was the exciter coil and trigger module. Splice the new kill wire to the positive connection and you should be good to go. Works great.
I did that on my 041 Stihl but still no spark. My electronic is a German one just like this video. Hooked the positive terminal to the little wire on the coil. And the negative to the ground. For the moment I left the shut off wire off. Is there a way to check this coil? Could I use the Sweden electronic unit with this module? Could I buy an early point and condenser system and then use this module? I know all 3 of these electronic systems use a different flywheel. I wonder if they ever have any problems with this module?,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
The only problem with this modification for me, is that this fix works for the Bosh module, but I have never seen it done for the Sen ignition,. Unfortunately, all the dead ignition units (and flywheels) hanging on my wall are Sen units.
I read on another forum, that you probably have to adjust the timing after installing the module. I don't know why this is so, it wasn't explained, but the person doing the modification could not start the engine after doing the conversion, and after adjusting the timing, it ran like jack the bear.
Another thing to remember, is that if you have the Bosch ignition, you have to use the Bosch flywheel. Same goes for the Sen. Again, I don't know if it is placement of the magnets, but I just know they are different.
Great video
Always do it just the way you did it, i heard you mention the impact, do not use impact when you are using a puller unless it is on a large shaft and bearing but not on a chainsaw flywheel removal.
I have exact same saw .
Having same issues removing cover.
Went and brought steering wheel puller finger crossed.
Glad to see you got the spark back
The dang flywheels on these saws are menaces. As I mentioned in the previous video, my 120 Super behaved exactly the same, and the crank broke exactly the same way. I wound up recessing the flywheel .100", just to get more purchase and ease of mind. But use a depth micrometer to see how much you can take off first, if you choose to do so. These Dolmar saws fight every step of the way. Best wishes!
I just did a Stihl 041. The condenser is bad so I guess I will get that Oregon chip. Tip for getting the flywheel off is I used a Steering wheel puller and a Milwaukee 1/4 m18 impact 2853-20. It works awesome for those just put it on the lowest setting tighten till it doesn't move wait 10sec then tighten again when it comes off it sounds like a firecracker scary but doesn't hurt anything.
An old trick I learned for dealing with stuck tapers, heat the area a bit and then apply a wax candle. The wax melts into the joint and will help it pop. I didn’t believe it until I tried it. Works better than liquid penetrants. Also hitting the outer edge of the flywheel will “rock” it sideways and make it pop, when you have the puller attached.
would love to add that saw yo my collection one glad your taking care of this one beat of luck
got a stihl 056 with the same issues, got it running with fuel in the carb and then found out it had 2 cylinder bolts loose and 2 missing , replaced those and tightened the other 2 , now it has no spark ,and I also found the bare wire to the coil from the switch , in the process of pulling the flywheel , now I know what to expect, then clean the carb and I should be good to go
I have timed mine a few days ago. Would be interesting to see what the saw times at. My concrete cutter conversion is very hot out of the box, 96° at the exhaust, 73° intake and 25° blowdown.
Just needed to widen and shape everything.
These things seem to have super small lower tranfers. It wakes them right up if you get them flowing fast.
Cool thing that you've got spark now👍🏼
Thanks for sharing your experience, the SEM ignition is a bit different it contains two pieces, the ignition coil and a big black block, could you please explain how can I convert it too
Glad to have seen this, I've never seen this type of ignition before !
On Stihl 041 saws, first they had points, then later they had German electronic and Sweden electronic ignition systems. They all used different flywheels. But I hooked it up and no spark. So either the coil is bad or the module is bad. Not sure how to test the German coil,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Used the old atom packs from rotary back 25 years ago and that looks almost identical
It is possible to melt or cut the epoxy out of the stock module and solder in a new capacitor, I have done that on Stihls but this fix looks to be easier. Now that I see how much you were able to grind away for flywheel clearance I am going to fix a 056 mag this way. The Stihl flywheel puller and crank tip protectors are worth the cost and cheaper than replacing a broken crank. Be mindful of how tight you make flywheel nuts as it is easy to snap the end off a crankshaft over tightening one. Thanks for sharing, looking forward to seeing this saw in the wood.
I have a Stihl 041 with this German electronic ignition. I dug out the epoxy out of the center part and then you can mount the module on it's side and not half to grind on it. And this system I guess works good as long as the coil is good or the module is working. I still have no spark after following instructions + to the coil wire and negative to ground. Not sure how to test the coil,,,,,,,,,,,,
Hi tinman, I brought a 153 new In the late 80's 30" bar & 404 chain, and had Spark issues soon after, So under warranty took back to the Dealer, who done the same as you to the crankshaft, Or worse, In the end they couldn't fix problem, I toke saw back, learned how to start It to use, But in my infinite wisdom, I traded It In on a Dolmar 6800i, got a measly $250. for it and started right up for the Dealer, I'm still angered with Myself for it but Money was tight at time!
That is an awesome fix I never would have thought of it
Looks like a good saw to stay away from if your into tinkering. It's probably why BMW's and Mercs seem so cheap second hand. I worked on Jaguars in the early 2000's, they had 8 onboard computers.
I worked on getting a stuck flywheel off once for a whole week! 335 rotax. I welded up a fantastic puller and tightened it up to the max every night after supper! Tight eh
I work on small single cylinder Rotax’s. Only way some flywheels will come loose is to apply heat via small shop torch and smack the puller tension bolt head with a heavy ball peen hammer. They’ll eventually release with quite a bang !
Good one and helpfull ! Tou going very thorough and illustraits very perfect. This is a common difficulty...in the beginning....to loose that magneto wheel. Thx for sharing...and now i guess i will get off mine from Partner r12. Need to look for a tree piont or arm, pull ! :-)
1/29” air impact is what you use on those pullers the vibration and Impacts does the job
That saw is a beast buddy
Tinman you are a Legend my friend 😀
Always something new !
I use the air hammer on larger flywheels like Briggs and Stratton engines, and I almost tried it on a little Poulan 2150 I'm porting the other night but I couldn't bring myself to do it, I chickened out lol . I would like to have a brass end for the point to try it on a saw.
To further explain ohm testing the kill switch so there's no confusion. With the switch off there should be no continuity and the dvom should read ol. With the switch on, there should be continuity with a fairly low resistance. If you read Ol with the switch on you most likely have a broken wire. If you have continuity with switch off you have a short to ground somewhere. 🤙
That dolmar is goin to be a monster especially if u port it.
Is there a similar solution for an SEM electronic ignition. Mine is a type GE. And it is on a Stihl 041 av. My coil is good. Any info you can share is much appreciated.
Maybe this would work with your ignition, they are very similar I think?
Good information. Stay with it. 🤙🤔
Are them magnets glued upon the flywheel? Always hate heatin them kind....
Good info Tinman, thanks.
I have done it to a dolmar 133, but still no spark. What can it be? I used the module with one leg that grounds itself.
haha dolmars are notorious for this i always put a little break fluid/trannyfluid and let it set with pressure on the three way puller and next morning it pops lol
I’m not seeing where the coil gets any current ( voltage) supplied , only triggered by the Oregon ?
Wow, it was tight. Had a 268 like that, was changing the seal but had to apply more heat then I was comfortable with. It all turned out in the end and the saw was cutting a cord of tamarac today and will be tomorrow as well. Always good stuff Tinman, Mahalo 🤙🤙🤙
Ha:) love the “winning” when shyt goes your way. F’n tigers blood! This stuff is above my pay grade but I love it. Thanks !
Those dolmars with those tillitson carbs had big fuel lines at the carby .
I have that same Bosch set up on my 045, 056. It sparks but it's way out of time. I also have a SEM ignition that loses spark after about 3 minutes of running good. Which one is better to fix with a magic Oregon chip?
I have the same Bosch set up on my 041 Stihl saw. But I followed his video hooking positive to the little coil wire and negative to ground. But still no spark. Can this coil be tested? Maybe the coil or the module is bad,,,,,,,,,I also have the SEM Sweden version. I'm not sure if I can use one of those with this module. Even the older 041 had points and condenser. Maybe I could use the module on one of them. Just beware the flywheels are all different,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Hello. recently I bought a Homelite 410 that has a cracked intake boot and does not put oil automatically but only manually. Can you make a video with this chainsaw in the future? In Romania it is very difficult to find parts for these chainsaws.
The intake boots on that model was crap in the 90's. For obsolete saw parts like that your going to have to make your own, I have used inner tubes before and they last for about 4-5 years before the fuel and heat destroy them.
Man I WANT that 153 badly
I have the same German electronic ignition in my saw. The part in the middle that has plastic and the little coil wire and kill wire go into that plastic center piece. I took a screwdriver and dug all of that out in the middle since it is no longer used. Then I was able to mount the module on it's side and not half to grind it down to clear the flywheel. I wired the + terminal to the little wire on the coil. And the - terminal to ground. And temporary left the kill wire off. But I still cannot get any spark. So I'm assuming that the coil must be bad. How do you test that coil? Can the Sweden SEM electronic ignition be used with this module? I have 3 of them. I'm sure there is no way to get a coil for the German electronic ignition as it is not separate like the Sweden version is. Perhaps I could buy a older point system with a flywheel and use the module to replace the points and condenser, and then use that coil to get spark. Still not sure what to do,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
i had the same set up on a 056 supper i put a new one on 500 $$$ and all i need was a chip grrr WELL DONE
031 also you have to wire it in reverse of normal mcculloch or homelite.
I've used these chips on two Homelites now (a Super XL-130 and an XL 2). It got spark going, but it reversed the on/off switch. I'm no electrician, so I'm pretty stumped. Any way to correct that?
Manual oiler. Haven't had a saw with one of those in awhile.
Can I put a 375 piston and cylinder on a 372xp xtorq.
Nice and good info sir👍👍👍.
Time those at 8000 rpm with a timing light, tricky but it can be done.
Do you have a part number for the module? Yep, I should wait until I watch the full video 🙃
I cracked my crank taking the nut off my 153 as well.
Thank u Nate!!!!
Hey ! Do you have allot of extreme weather where you are ? Is it mid west ? Storms ? Hmm I am at my place in Sweden and weather ok. But we had an extreme drouth in 2018...summer.
Glad to see everything coming together, did you have a plan B if those threads snapped off a little lower?
This is a good fix except for one thing. If the bosch coil is no good, then you will still have no spark. I did this and now it has a very weak spark. Since the coil is not available unless I come across another Bosch electronic ignition, I need to consider buying a flywheel and a point system from and earlier saw and use the chip on that type ignition. I have seen no fix for the SEM Sweden electronic ignition which I have several of those. If your coil is good then this is a good fix,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
You need to get an assortment of heat shrink tubing. Tape sucks. Heat Shrink Good.
Good job!
If you decide to auction this saw for charity...... I'd be very interested😁
Thank you!!
I got a 045AV with the same problem i think, im not good enough to fix it.
Winning! 🤟
man i feel kinda bad i was one of the people saying air hammer never failed me part of me wonders if something happened and the flywheel galled right to the crank shaft man that seemed stuck nice outcome though 2 stroke life...
Where's the timing mark I have same saw was just given to me but I don't see a timing mark
Told ya it works! 😁
Is your sweet chip not going to be at risk of centrifugal fly out mounted on the rear hole like that ?
Where it's mounted doesn't rotate.
I have the same Bosch system and I dug out the plastic in the middle and then you can mount it on it's side and not half to grind on it. But apparently my coil is no good because there is still no spark. Or a bad module,,,,,,,,,,,,,
same probleme one old stilh 045 nofing move never see befford 😄😄😄🤣🤣🤣
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That part cost 83.00$ is that what you paid i thought i seen 25$ it cost ya did price go up thats amazon 83.82$ i have same saw buddy at work gave it to me if sparked first time i pulled the cord nice bright blue spark an nothing after that what is this chip you speak off where do I get one first I hear a chip so I'm curious maybe this saw needs it I'm gonna watch on see if I can pick up on what your doing cheers
Shame that crank broke. Air hammers can wreck things in a hurry if your not careful.
should have pulled timing plate and checked the crank seal its an old saw and seals do go bad...
I would of heated it up and spray cold water on it I've done that and it does work
That thing is gonna pull chain!!
Where's the follow up video? Please
👍🏻
U can get these chips for 12 shipped
I think I can I think I can😂
Get yourself a big hammer! As funny as it sounds a heavy hammer works better than a light one.
A heavy hammer will work much better than the light air hammer.
I must have changed a 100 of those egnitions to those chips.all of your thinking was right
I have a Stihl 041 with this German ignition and I hooked the positive to the little coil wire and the negative to the ground. And left the kill switch wire off. But still no spark. So either the coil must be bad or the chip is bad. Can these coils be tested?,,,,,,,,,,,,I do have 3 SEM Sweden electronic ignitions too. But not sure you can use this chip for that system. The older 041's had points and condenser. Maybe I can use this chip on one of those. I do know the flywheels are all different,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Some of these are positive ground.
Before I changed the wires on the chip, when I have a drill turning the engine over I can feel a very weak spark, so I think the chip is working. I tried positive ground by changing the 2 wires on the chip, and then no weak spark even. So I must have a bad coil and you can't buy those coils because they are not separate from the other parts on the plate. I do have 3 SEM Sweden electronic systems but I have seen no videos using this chip with 1 of them. Can I use a SEM Sweden electronic system with this chip?
If it doesn’t spin ignore my ignorance haha
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