@@Rolohaun Buildtak, even the cheap clones, is my favorite build surface for pla. If it works it works. Overture brand filament from Amazon also comes with little buildtak stickers definitely large enough for most prints on a delta.
@@myriadtechrepair1191 I agree, it's cheap and it works. My large delta is too big so I use blue painters tape but the tape needs to be maintained so much. it will be getting a PEI sheet soon
Great job. I am working on a Flsun Qs Pro. It only had a bottom and top, all electronics/motors, and most of the wiring was there. I have since replaced some of the electronics and I used 2020 extrusion to replace the frame that didn't come with it. I want to complete this build with rails and I need to calculate them for at least a 300mm build area. What length of rails would you recommend?
So what I have found is go 100mm less of your side extrusions. So for my mini build I am using 500mm extrusions and 400mm linear rails. For my large delta I am using 1000mm extrusion and I went with 800mm but 900 would be good too.
Very interesting build. I got into 3D printing 3 or 4 years ago and right before the pandemic bought a Kossel frame that I was going to gut and rebuild. I also plan on flipping my frame to put the electronics up top. I have some questions regarding your build and general Delta questions enumerated below. 1) Where did you mount your power supply? 2) I'm not planning on using Klipper or Raspberry Pi. I have a the original board I purchased for this project a couple of years ago (MKS Gen L 1.0). I also have a couple of original Ender 3 boards sitting around. Can the MKS board be used for a Delta? I am assuming so as your board is similar. 3) I plan on using Marlin. Which version would you recommend? 4) Can you point me to some Marlin Delta resources please? I am having a really hard time finding any. Thank you for all this information you have shared. I will glean what pertains to me. Once I am done with my build (If I ever get done with this perennial project) I'll see if you're interested in me sending you some pics of the completed build. I scrapped the rails and went with wheels. Don't shoot me. Also, I have printed multiple effectors and have not been happy with any of the designs. I may just build one out of Aluminum and 3D print the cooling fan ducts.
v-wheels are totally fine, I am restoring a delta with them and will do a project on TH-cam. I have no real experience with delta's and Marlin. I know they can work but it will be a pain to calibrate. I would strongly suggest going with Klipper or a delta.
I watched with great interest your vidios about making a delta 3D printer yourself. My question is how do you get the length of the arms is a simple calculation for that.
@@Rolohaun The thickness will be 10 mm but what is the length of the arm I already have a few 3D printers, but I would like to build one myself with a base plate of around 370mm, that's why the question.
Not recommended. Deltas require very precise homing because all axes affect the Z offset and indeed the flatness of the first layer. With sensorless the homing position can vary by 0.2 mm or more. Optical endstops are cheap, much more precise and you can use them with Klipper's endstop phase calibration to get even more precision.
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I think the chopped down ender built mat is pretty funny.
haha what it is was a Flux Delta 3D printer build plate with a buildtak clone ender sticker on it. I am cheap and used what I had lol
@@Rolohaun Buildtak, even the cheap clones, is my favorite build surface for pla. If it works it works. Overture brand filament from Amazon also comes with little buildtak stickers definitely large enough for most prints on a delta.
@@myriadtechrepair1191 I agree, it's cheap and it works. My large delta is too big so I use blue painters tape but the tape needs to be maintained so much. it will be getting a PEI sheet soon
@@myriadtechrepair1191 I have like a dozen of those stickers because I never throw out anything that could be useful :)
Great job. I am working on a Flsun Qs Pro. It only had a bottom and top, all electronics/motors, and most of the wiring was there. I have since replaced some of the electronics and I used 2020 extrusion to replace the frame that didn't come with it. I want to complete this build with rails and I need to calculate them for at least a 300mm build area. What length of rails would you recommend?
So what I have found is go 100mm less of your side extrusions. So for my mini build I am using 500mm extrusions and 400mm linear rails. For my large delta I am using 1000mm extrusion and I went with 800mm but 900 would be good too.
Very interesting build. I got into 3D printing 3 or 4 years ago and right before the pandemic bought a Kossel frame that I was going to gut and rebuild. I also plan on flipping my frame to put the electronics up top.
I have some questions regarding your build and general Delta questions enumerated below.
1) Where did you mount your power supply?
2) I'm not planning on using Klipper or Raspberry Pi. I have a the original board I purchased for this project a couple of years ago (MKS Gen L 1.0). I also have a couple of original Ender 3 boards sitting around. Can the MKS board be used for a Delta? I am assuming so as your board is similar.
3) I plan on using Marlin. Which version would you recommend?
4) Can you point me to some Marlin Delta resources please? I am having a really hard time finding any.
Thank you for all this information you have shared. I will glean what pertains to me. Once I am done with my build (If I ever get done with this perennial project) I'll see if you're interested in me sending you some pics of the completed build.
I scrapped the rails and went with wheels. Don't shoot me. Also, I have printed multiple effectors and have not been happy with any of the designs. I may just build one out of Aluminum and 3D print the cooling fan ducts.
v-wheels are totally fine, I am restoring a delta with them and will do a project on TH-cam. I have no real experience with delta's and Marlin. I know they can work but it will be a pain to calibrate. I would strongly suggest going with Klipper or a delta.
I think of building a new delta as well
Are all the T-nuts and slide-in Nuts for the M5 Hardware, or are some m3 ones also required?
@@CalebRaes-ek6ul all m5 t nuts
What board would you recommend if I WASN'T planning on using a Raspberry Pi on it?
Any bigtree tech manta board
Hey drill through everything to tighten the motor screws
I defiantly thought about that and will probably modify the part so there are access holes.
I watched with great interest your vidios about making a delta 3D printer yourself. My question is how do you get the length of the arms is a simple calculation for that.
do you mean on what size to order?
@@Rolohaun The thickness will be 10 mm but what is the length of the arm
I already have a few 3D printers, but I would like to build one myself with a base plate of around 370mm, that's why the question.
@@gboiten you can look at other printers and get some sizes. This site will have example arm sizes www.magballarms.com/
Do you not need bearings for the idlers at the bottom?
no the idlers already have bearings in them
@@Rolohaun ah thanks!
Hot air rises….🤦🏻♂️
Not hot enough to do anything, and the printer is not enclosed
Can you use sensorless homing on a delta?
Not recommended. Deltas require very precise homing because all axes affect the Z offset and indeed the flatness of the first layer. With sensorless the homing position can vary by 0.2 mm or more. Optical endstops are cheap, much more precise and you can use them with Klipper's endstop phase calibration to get even more precision.
not accurate enough