First adjust ,witch you did . After line is fixed just leave top off master cyl and open bleeders and let gravity bleed.If the proportioning valve sticks push the pin on the end back in. Also if bleeding with 2 people do not pump brakes ,just push peddle down open bleeder ,close bleeder and repeat. If you pump to much it will suds the fluid and make it very hard to bleed.
Try resetting the shuttle valve in the proportioning valve. It needs to be centered to allow flow to front brakes and vice versa if you had no flow to the rear.
New brake lines and hoses are an investment in your peace of mind brother... Never gamble with OK brakes, they will fail, Excellent brakes are the minimum expectation for Louise and all your vehicles Reuben !
Thanks -- I have thought about what you have said-- about OK brakes vs excellent brakes-- I will aim for excellent brakes.. replacing everything. Thanks again, Doug-- I value your opinion and that of all the experienced voices in the garage
We did not pump-- I had my helper steadily slowly press the brake to the floor, I tightened the bleeder and had him slowly release the pedal-- and repeated until the line was clear of bubbles. I DID get sudsy bubbles though when we were doing that same procedure with the leak... not fun, but it is gone!
It is messy-- I got brake fluid all over my paint job (just the rattle can black, though)-- I knew I was going to have to redo that, anyway, but I went through 2 quarts of brake fluid between testing and discovering the leak and whatnot... ah, the learning curve!
One step at a time. You will find it Reuben. I have full confidence in you. Hang in there my friend and don't let Anthony worry you with his insanity of needing to scare you. He is only going to prove what you were afraid of in the first place. Some boys just never grow up...LOL
The proportioning valve has another function....Should you blow a line to the front, the valve closes fluid to front allowing you to have rear brake function....and vice versa.......The valve is reset allowing fluid to go to the front & rear by bleeding lines at MASTER cylinder....What you are calling a brake line switch is a "off center proportioning valve" indication ground circuit...causing the brake light malfunction on the dash to light up.
Be glad the line broke now, and not while driving. Now is the time to replace the park brake cables. Don't waste any time trying to free them, because even if you can, it will be short lived. After you change the cables, re-check the rear brake adjustment, then bleed the brakes
right away at the beginning of the video....you can see the valve is stuck. the left side on the end.... you see that pointed thing sticking out, that is the end of the valve sticking out. Push that back in... job finished!
Yeah, right? O course, I wouldn't learn nothing if Louise didn't fight me here and there. Besides, she's preparing me for bigger challenges down the road.. maybe on the next project
I took my old proportioning valve apart an there not much to them other than a valve an some rubber o rings ,i am sure you could take it apart an clean all the gunk out if it an replace the o rings an see if it works but i think i rather just get a new or one that i know for sure works
If you have a hose off bleeder sticking down in a container and the end of hose in in brake fluid you can pump the brakes and bleed your self. I use a $30 dollar vacuum bleeder from Harbor freight . can bleed most brakes very easy by my self.
I think I might get one of those-- although having a helper gives me company and someone to show off to-- "Hey, look at me! I'm fixing the car!"-- people around me are easily impressed, I guess
I had trouble with not getting any fluid to the rear brakes on my Monte Carlo an it ended up being a bad proportioning valve So i say to anyone that reads this if your having the same problem check the proportioning valve
The pin (according to the book, anyway) protrudes though the rubber boot. And the book also says to press it in when bleeding the front brakes... However, the pin does not move-- not with gentle pressure, firm pressure-- or a hammer-- it is totally seized.... need a new valve
The "pin" will not depress because the proportioning valve is not "CENTERED"... Fluid will not be at either the front or rear during bleeding until the valve is "RE_CENTERED".....a 2-person job.... I have in my 40+ years as a mechanic replaced 1 or 2 proportioning valves and that was due to bad fluid/moisture rusting in the valve. The technique for re-centering the valve is done with lines attaching to the master cylinder
It IS cool, although these kinds of things wear me down sometimes.. I will be much better for it in the end, but... you know, why does learning have to take so much outta you, you know?
Yeah-- I know brake fluid chews up paint... yeah... I know... [sigh]-- I would explain, but this comment window isn't enough to explain the shortfalls of the helper I had....
90% of the braking is on the front brakes...Have you ever pulled on the park brake at speed.?..(A hand brake turn)..No control.!..Look how much you're learning for free...Pretty cool don't you think.
Well, I am like, $4.10 away from replacing all the lines anyway, so... just one line o go-- the one from the prop valve back to the ... the... tee-fitting in the rear.. whatever you call that thing
Originally, I wasn't worried about the parking brake.. I never really used it. But seeing as how I have been into all the major systems on the car, I think it would be a good idea-- AND a new E-brake system is cheap and easy to get to.. excel for having to take apart my drum brakes AGAIN... (4th time now...)
yep change everything since ur redoing the car...remember everything rubber from china is or will be bad in a shorter time than ever before. Brakes will now rust faster with brine being used. ijust redid my brakes 4 yrs ago and there now popping again from rust. prolly from china also. Just my 2 cents
I answer questions... but I'm not an authority on anything other than how I did something...as opposed to how something should be done. I'm still learning
Yaheuben66 i do have a toyota corona 1970 with a 1.7cc engine. This kind of car use the same systems as the USA cars in that era. BRAKES ,suspension ,etc... well this car has a particulary BRAKE problem that i want to fix for sure... when you are driving the car and you want to brake , you press the brake pedal the 1st impression is (VERY HARD PEDAL) 2nd if you press the pedal very softly (around 1cm but you dont feel the car brakes and when you notice that !!!you press the brake pedal more (4cm) and inmediatly PUM!!!! the front brakes LOCK really hard JUST LIKE YOU WERE IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION ,the brake pedal is not even all the way and the brake HITS REALLY HARD, LOCKS and well you imagine that situation,, well my grandpa told me the car did that since he bought it at the DEALER,, do you imagine that? the dealer said has POWER BRAKES and thats normal or is like that period... so i m thinking power brakes are really like that or i have a faulty booster or master?
First adjust ,witch you did . After line is fixed just leave top off master cyl and open bleeders and let gravity bleed.If the proportioning valve sticks push the pin on the end back in. Also if bleeding with 2 people do not pump brakes ,just push peddle down open bleeder ,close bleeder and repeat. If you pump to much it will suds the fluid and make it very hard to bleed.
Try resetting the shuttle valve in the proportioning valve. It needs to be centered to allow flow to front brakes and vice versa if you had no flow to the rear.
New brake lines and hoses are an investment in your peace of mind brother...
Never gamble with OK brakes, they will fail, Excellent brakes are the minimum expectation for Louise and all your vehicles Reuben !
Thanks -- I have thought about what you have said-- about OK brakes vs excellent brakes-- I will aim for excellent brakes.. replacing everything.
Thanks again, Doug-- I value your opinion and that of all the experienced voices in the garage
Race cars or performance guys install an adjustable prop valve, these come in electronic or tap looking type units.
We did not pump-- I had my helper steadily slowly press the brake to the floor, I tightened the bleeder and had him slowly release the pedal-- and repeated until the line was clear of bubbles. I DID get sudsy bubbles though when we were doing that same procedure with the leak... not fun, but it is gone!
It is messy-- I got brake fluid all over my paint job (just the rattle can black, though)-- I knew I was going to have to redo that, anyway, but I went through 2 quarts of brake fluid between testing and discovering the leak and whatnot... ah, the learning curve!
One step at a time. You will find it Reuben. I have full confidence in you. Hang in there my friend and don't let Anthony worry you with his insanity of needing to scare you. He is only going to prove what you were afraid of in the first place. Some boys just never grow up...LOL
True-- trying to adopt the standpoint of "Good enough" is not good enough for brakes... getting there
The proportioning valve has another function....Should you blow a line to the front, the valve closes fluid to front allowing you to have rear brake function....and vice versa.......The valve is reset allowing fluid to go to the front & rear by bleeding lines at MASTER cylinder....What you are calling a brake line switch is a "off center proportioning valve" indication ground circuit...causing the brake light malfunction on the dash to light up.
New brake lines sound like a good idea to me as well.
I value your experience, Rob-- Yeah, I am going to replace everything-- rubber and steel... heck, I'm 90% of the way there already..!
Yup-- really only one line to go before they are all replaced... thanks Ron
Be glad the line broke now, and not while driving. Now is the time to replace the park brake cables. Don't waste any time trying to free them, because even if you can, it will be short lived. After you change the cables, re-check the rear brake adjustment, then bleed the brakes
After replacing the leaky line, the pedal is firm, although I still don't think I have very much front brake...
right away at the beginning of the video....you can see the valve is stuck. the left side on the end.... you see that pointed thing sticking out, that is the end of the valve sticking out. Push that back in... job finished!
Yeah, right? O course, I wouldn't learn nothing if Louise didn't fight me here and there. Besides, she's preparing me for bigger challenges down the road.. maybe on the next project
I took my old proportioning valve apart an there not much to them other than a valve an some rubber o rings ,i am sure you could take it apart an clean all the gunk out if it an replace the o rings an see if it works but i think i rather just get a new or one that i know for sure works
when you bleed the brake , the piston inside the valve might move left or right and cause a block in your bleeding process. am I right?
If you have a hose off bleeder sticking down in a container and the end of hose in in brake fluid you can pump the brakes and bleed your self. I use a $30 dollar vacuum bleeder from Harbor freight . can bleed most brakes very easy by my self.
Yeah-- gonna get one of those bleeder vacs... jus not yet-- thanks, Stang...!
oops, wait,,, good stuff! you will get it. Brakes wont break you unless they don't work. Thanks for the video!
that could have been your week point all along, an old rubber line could be bad too old ones will swell when brakes are applied causing week braking
well with the brakes man your better to fix it now that later. very nice work brother cheers
Anthony is a wise man
I think I might get one of those-- although having a helper gives me company and someone to show off to-- "Hey, look at me! I'm fixing the car!"-- people around me are easily impressed, I guess
True-- very true... Brakes are something I don't want to mess with-- you know, like not do it right, is what I mean...
Leaks are typically the issuess..I usually just get an entirw new break system and try again lol..CJ
Yeah-- I hope they work... I still haven't busted this problem yet, though... it's coming..
When I am done, the whole brake system WILLL be new...! Thanks, CJ
I had trouble with not getting any fluid to the rear brakes on my Monte Carlo an it ended up being a bad proportioning valve So i say to anyone that reads this if your having the same problem check the proportioning valve
Anthony may not grow up-- but he has grown out a lot... thanks George
I am not looking forward to filling and bleeding my brakes - I always hated that process, messy and messy and did I say messy?
Adjustable prop valve!?! Well, if I had one of those, I would introduce a whole nuther learning curve for myself!!
The pin (according to the book, anyway) protrudes though the rubber boot. And the book also says to press it in when bleeding the front brakes... However, the pin does not move-- not with gentle pressure, firm pressure-- or a hammer-- it is totally seized.... need a new valve
The "pin" will not depress because the proportioning valve is not "CENTERED"... Fluid will not be at either the front or rear during bleeding until the valve is "RE_CENTERED".....a 2-person job....
I have in my 40+ years as a mechanic replaced 1 or 2 proportioning valves and that was due to bad fluid/moisture rusting in the valve.
The technique for re-centering the valve is done with lines attaching to the master cylinder
yep replace all the rubber hoses ( safer in the long run )
I changed my drum brakes to disc brakes. conversion, my front disc r stricken. what can I do
I hope so... well, I think so, it's just getting through it
I am TOTALLY convinced that the proportioning valve is bad...
I was lucky, my Firebird had a brand new master cylinder in the trunk when I got it.
If you are impressed now... I'd hate to think what you thought of me before! Seriously, thanks, Damion
It IS cool, although these kinds of things wear me down sometimes.. I will be much better for it in the end, but... you know, why does learning have to take so much outta you, you know?
They suck... and as I am new to all this.. I do them over and over...
Yeah-- car is a 78-- no reason to keep "good enough" brake lines on it...
Yeah-- I know brake fluid chews up paint... yeah... I know... [sigh]-- I would explain, but this comment window isn't enough to explain the shortfalls of the helper I had....
90% of the braking is on the front brakes...Have you ever pulled on the park brake at speed.?..(A hand brake turn)..No control.!..Look how much you're learning for free...Pretty cool don't you think.
change all the lines now, safer that way.........tony
Well, I am like, $4.10 away from replacing all the lines anyway, so... just one line o go-- the one from the prop valve back to the ... the... tee-fitting in the rear.. whatever you call that thing
Thanks, Bruce
when it comes to brakes i always git my mechanic just for safety sakes
Originally, I wasn't worried about the parking brake.. I never really used it. But seeing as how I have been into all the major systems on the car, I think it would be a good idea-- AND a new E-brake system is cheap and easy to get to.. excel for having to take apart my drum brakes AGAIN... (4th time now...)
doing good keep at it...
fer sure , see ya sunday brother... be ready lol
Yeah-- I made the leak though... I earned it!
yep change everything since ur redoing the car...remember everything rubber from china is or will be bad in a shorter time than ever before. Brakes will now rust faster with brine being used. ijust redid my brakes 4 yrs ago and there now popping again from rust. prolly from china also. Just my 2 cents
I think his wife lost interest a long time ago... that's why he's trying to send her to me...
Hmmm more problems..
do you answer questions here?
I answer questions... but I'm not an authority on anything other than how I did something...as opposed to how something should be done. I'm still learning
do you know about power from 1970 i need another opinion
+serchmarc all I know is shown... all the experience I have is in the videos.. I have no background knowledge
+serchmarc I do have opinions, though!
Yaheuben66 i do have a toyota corona 1970 with a 1.7cc engine. This kind of car use the same systems as the USA cars in that era. BRAKES ,suspension ,etc... well this car has a particulary BRAKE problem that i want to fix for sure... when you are driving the car and you want to brake , you press the brake pedal the 1st impression is (VERY HARD PEDAL) 2nd if you press the pedal very softly (around 1cm but you dont feel the car brakes and when you notice that !!!you press the brake pedal more (4cm) and inmediatly PUM!!!! the front brakes LOCK really hard JUST LIKE YOU WERE IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION ,the brake pedal is not even all the way and the brake HITS REALLY HARD, LOCKS and well you imagine that situation,, well my grandpa told me the car did that since he bought it at the DEALER,, do you imagine that? the dealer said has POWER BRAKES and thats normal or is like that period... so i m thinking power brakes are really like that or i have a faulty booster or master?
Everything is getting replaced-- no need to be sentimental or lazy or cheap about brakes
I'm with PiezPiedPy; I would be replacing all of the brake lines. After all, How old is your car?
This guy is horrible.
He's the WORST