Once you put the stickers on, did you end up clear coating the top again? Also, Tamiya cans are always expensive for what you get. Could I use any spray lacquer brand?
I didn't spray over the decals.... because in the future if I wanted to paint it again....then it would be a lot harder to sand it off. If you choose a hardware store spray paint....then you don't need to clear coat it usually.... because it is already shiney.....but if you want to clear coat it....just get the same brand clear coat that is the same as the paint was...such as if the paint was Enamel.....then the clear coat needs to be enamel. I watched a guy paint his Lunchbox with Tamiya paint....but then he went over it with hardware store clear coat.....it reacted with the Tamiya paint and cracked everywhere....that messed up his paint job and messed up the decals too. Hope that helps
@@markrc6368 Thanks for the great info. I wasn’t sure if we had to stick with lacquer based paint, or could use enamel or acrylic paint also. Tamiya is kinda expensive and was hoping to go with a paint brand like Krylon at the big box stores.
I only wet sanded once on the white plastic body to help the paint stick better. If your paint job is a little rough.....then you can wet sand it with very fine sand paper....like around 1000 grit. But let the paint dry 1st at least a week.....or it will be too soft for sanding. I didn't polish my clear coat.....but if you need it to shine better..... automotive cleaner wax works great....it has a very fine grit in it to smooth out the clear coat. There are many ways to paint. It's good to practice on a toy grade plastic body 1st..then when you are ready..paint the hobby grade ones. Right now I'm working on a 2001 Nikko RC Dodge Viper. I'm sanding it down and giving it a fresh coat of Hardware store red paint in a spray can. Same thing. A few light coats with 10 minutes between coats.... Then the final coat I go around 2 times in a row to give it a nice wet shine....but need to still be careful so that the paint doesn't get runs in it. Thanks for watching
This came out beautifully. Can I ask a question? So im trying to paint my hard body but everytime i use the tamiya masking tape to make the lines so I can paint the other side a different color when I take the tape off it leaves a streak of residue that makes me have to start all over and sand it and paint again but all I will be doing is going is circles. My question is if I leave the residue will this clear coat cover it and make is vanish? Or do you have a suggestion to get rid of the residue? Before you suggest some products I did some researching and I tried Wd40, Water, Goo Gone and using more tape to stick it and bring it up but none of these work
That's a tough question. So far I've just used the Tamiya masking tape on clear bodies to mask off the windows. I haven't noticed that it left anything behind. Had a few clear bodies that were hand brushed painted inside ....so I just sanded the outside with 400 grit wet sandpaper and painted it on the outside with Rust-Oleum brand paint......turned out good. Masked the windows off on the outside with the Tamiya masking tape. I guess if none of those products worked......just clear coat over everything afterwards. The clear coat smooths out everything and hopefully will cover up the stuff left behind. No guarantee.....but worth a try. On a 1983 Tamiya Frog.....I painted the old body white on the outside......then a week later.....used automotive pin stripe tape to make my stripes.....no complicated masking or paint job.....sometimes.....less is more.
One mistake I mad in the past was add masking too soon before paint had properly cured. Best leave it a few days first, I actually leave it 5-7 days before using masking on a new paint job. Not had an issue since.
Looks amazing. Have a question about the technique. It looks like you used the clear coat 4 or 5 times here, but you called it a double coat in the end of the video. Why is it called double coat when there are more than 2 coats? Sorry I'm new to this hobby. Thank you for your time.
Each coat I went around the body just once......then let it dry a little.....then on my last coat ......I went around the body 2 times without stopping.....gives it extra shine.....but still have to be a little careful to not get it too wet...... otherwise might have some runs or sags later as gravity pulls on the paint. The 1st coats need to be very light.....so the paint can bond to the body and not want to run off. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching
About 10 minutes between coats....then on the final coat....I go around it 2 times without any time between the coats.....that gives it 2 light coats in a row to give it a nice wet look. But the only bad thing that can happen is too wet.....then later it runs or sags. Takes a little practice. Thanks for watching
I'm about to spray my Clod Buster with TS-13 Clear Coat over Metallic black. Thanks for sharing!
Nice. Thanks for watching. Enjoy your truck
Love the cockerel
The results are amazing mate
I did mine with the decals on no problems 👊🏻👍🏻
What clear paint did you use , there’s a few Tamiya ones. Thanks
TS 13 clear for a nice shine. One week after painting they recommend . Thanks for watching
Once you put the stickers on, did you end up clear coating the top again? Also, Tamiya cans are always expensive for what you get. Could I use any spray lacquer brand?
I didn't spray over the decals.... because in the future if I wanted to paint it again....then it would be a lot harder to sand it off. If you choose a hardware store spray paint....then you don't need to clear coat it usually.... because it is already shiney.....but if you want to clear coat it....just get the same brand clear coat that is the same as the paint was...such as if the paint was Enamel.....then the clear coat needs to be enamel. I watched a guy paint his Lunchbox with Tamiya paint....but then he went over it with hardware store clear coat.....it reacted with the Tamiya paint and cracked everywhere....that messed up his paint job and messed up the decals too. Hope that helps
@@markrc6368 Thanks for the great info. I wasn’t sure if we had to stick with lacquer based paint, or could use enamel or acrylic paint also. Tamiya is kinda expensive and was hoping to go with a paint brand like Krylon at the big box stores.
No wet sand or polish? Im new to this… so many different methods
I only wet sanded once on the white plastic body to help the paint stick better. If your paint job is a little rough.....then you can wet sand it with very fine sand paper....like around 1000 grit. But let the paint dry 1st at least a week.....or it will be too soft for sanding. I didn't polish my clear coat.....but if you need it to shine better..... automotive cleaner wax works great....it has a very fine grit in it to smooth out the clear coat. There are many ways to paint. It's good to practice on a toy grade plastic body 1st..then when you are ready..paint the hobby grade ones. Right now I'm working on a 2001 Nikko RC Dodge Viper. I'm sanding it down and giving it a fresh coat of Hardware store red paint in a spray can. Same thing. A few light coats with 10 minutes between coats....
Then the final coat I go around 2 times in a row to give it a nice wet shine....but need to still be careful so that the paint doesn't get runs in it. Thanks for watching
Top vid mate, what TS no. Is the clear coat please
TS 13 clear. The one with the most shine. Thanks for watching
Thankyou
What was the tamiya clear coat you used, was a a TS paint?
Yes. TS for the yellow & TS for the clear. Thanks for watching
This came out beautifully. Can I ask a question? So im trying to paint my hard body but everytime i use the tamiya masking tape to make the lines so I can paint the other side a different color when I take the tape off it leaves a streak of residue that makes me have to start all over and sand it and paint again but all I will be doing is going is circles. My question is if I leave the residue will this clear coat cover it and make is vanish? Or do you have a suggestion to get rid of the residue? Before you suggest some products I did some researching and I tried Wd40, Water, Goo Gone and using more tape to stick it and bring it up but none of these work
That's a tough question. So far I've just used the Tamiya masking tape on clear bodies to mask off the windows. I haven't noticed that it left anything behind. Had a few clear bodies that were hand brushed painted inside ....so I just sanded the outside with 400 grit wet sandpaper and painted it on the outside with Rust-Oleum brand paint......turned out good. Masked the windows off on the outside with the Tamiya masking tape. I guess if none of those products worked......just clear coat over everything afterwards. The clear coat smooths out everything and hopefully will cover up the stuff left behind. No guarantee.....but worth a try. On a 1983 Tamiya Frog.....I painted the old body white on the outside......then a week later.....used automotive pin stripe tape to make my stripes.....no complicated masking or paint job.....sometimes.....less is more.
One mistake I mad in the past was add masking too soon before paint had properly cured. Best leave it a few days first, I actually leave it 5-7 days before using masking on a new paint job. Not had an issue since.
Looks amazing. Have a question about the technique. It looks like you used the clear coat 4 or 5 times here, but you called it a double coat in the end of the video. Why is it called double coat when there are more than 2 coats? Sorry I'm new to this hobby. Thank you for your time.
Each coat I went around the body just once......then let it dry a little.....then on my last coat ......I went around the body 2 times without stopping.....gives it extra shine.....but still have to be a little careful to not get it too wet...... otherwise might have some runs or sags later as gravity pulls on the paint. The 1st coats need to be very light.....so the paint can bond to the body and not want to run off. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching
How long did you leave it to dry between clear coats?
About 10 minutes between coats....then on the final coat....I go around it 2 times without any time between the coats.....that gives it 2 light coats in a row to give it a nice wet look. But the only bad thing that can happen is too wet.....then later it runs or sags. Takes a little practice. Thanks for watching