This video shows my process for making a Beavertail Canoe Paddle from Cedar. Paddle design borrowed from: Problems in Woodworking by M.W. Murray archive.org/de...
After some time of use, the soft cedar has seen decent wear from contacting gunnels (especially when aluminum). To your comment, I'm grateful to have used an oil finish along the entire shaft that is easily touched up and maintained.
I’ve watched 15 paddle videos just for the entertainment but yours is the first one that has actually shown how all the transitions are to be drawn out and how the shaft is an oval rather than flat or round. I’ve made a few paddles from maple and cherry. I used a paddle making book by Graham Warren which is an excellent resource. You took it a step farther with the perimeter epoxy. Beautiful job.
John Byron Hommy, I'm glad to hear you saw something useful to you in the video! I'll check out the book you refer to in your comment. Feel free to reach out to me at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com with any questions. Thanks for your comment!
You bet! That tooling appears to be heavily utilized for its speed, especially in commercial production (which means it must work!). I found it particularly useful at the grip where one is moving across wood grain in all directions. It can be tough though to achieve some of the complex curves at the shoulder and throat areas where transitioning from oval shaft to flat blade. I think some commercially made paddles lose some of their beauty at these transitions due to their tooling and need for economies. For me, a bandsaw would also drastically decrease the time to arrive at a "blank". If you haven't worked with a plane, and maybe you have, I do hope you give a try if you ever have a chance. Their speed and control will surprise you, not to mention the enjoyment of the process! Thanks for chiming in with your thoughts Tom!
Xie xie for the best video I have seen on crafting a work of art needed to propell a canoe. I just began gluing up handles and blades for three paddles. You explained just what I need to know to get close to a finished product. I need some whitewater strength so laminated 1/4" oak along old growth cedar. Also a few small knots in that wood so being careful. Blades will be Sitka spruce for one, yellow cedar another and likely cypress for the 3rd. All wood that has been aging for 30-years. Waiting for the pertect project. Really man, a great job on your work and many thanks for the mentorship.
You're very welcome Vince! I'm glad you found useful information in it and appreciate the kind words. Your plans for three paddle sound spectacular. What better objects to make from the aged pieces of wood. Hat's off to you in your endeavors and hope the paddles come out reflecting their maker. I enjoyed the adventures on your channel. Miss Healey looks like a very enjoyable ride!! If you wish, when your paddles are complete, send me over a picture at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com, I'd love to see them!
Sir. You know what I enjoyed the most of this video? The attention to detail and how methodical you were in laying everything out and using your own templates for measuring guides. A person of my own ideology. Also, I was planning to make a paddle myself and masking the blade with tape so that I could pour epoxy around the edges to provide some added protection from rough surfaces. However, you already proceeded with that thought. Well done! The only constructive critique that I have is if you would have added some dialogue as to why you were doing some of the steps that you were doing. Not a big deal. A very succinct creative video. Cheers to you for doing it. One of the best ones I've seen.
Great to hear from you again Therealsparkman! I've considered releasing a version of the video with commentary to deliver some of the more in depth information that you speak of in your comment. I want to be careful though to not create "how-to" videos. I prefer they spark an interest and bring questions via comments, like yours, to which I can more specifically respond. There is no need to wait for a coming video, feel free to email me at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com about any specific questions regarding the steps I took in the video. I'd be happy to respond and offer what I can as you pursue making your own paddle! Thanks for watching!
Josh, thanks! We invest in things we care about don't we?! For me, paddling and woodworking are certainly two of those things I've found worth investing my time and effort into! Thanks for watching!
@@nebraskacanoe4891 Thx for checking out my channel. I subbed. Haven't watched it yet but looking forward to your canoe restoration, and any other future projects.
Thanks AJcanoe1! All the while I was thinking, "A bandsaw sure would be nice!" Alas, I can always use the extra practice in patience. The canoe certainly demands it of us!
Awesome, good luck! If you feel like it when you're through, send over a photo of the paddle to nebraskacanoe@gmail.com. I'd love to see how it turns out! Don't hesitate to reach out with any questions.
Awesome, good to hear! Take it and call it yours! Note to self - give yourself time to make the text straight and let dry. I rushed adding the date to another paddle I made after this -- as I had already mixed epoxy and then realized I wanted to add a date -- the story ends with text that's not quite straight and a little muddy :( I'll consider it a Persian Flaw! Good luck to you and yours!
Matthew, you are welcome, I'm glad you enjoyed. Try the following link: archive.org/details/problemsinwoodwo00murr/page/32/mode/1up If that doesn't get you there, shoot me an email at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com and I'll send you a copy.
Your paddle looks great. I’m thinking of making a paddle, which led me to your video. Can you give me a rough estimate of how many hours it took you to shape your paddle? How often did you have to stop and sharpen your blades?
Matt, thanks! And thank you for the question! Hmm...I recall the paddle taking about 20-25hrs all in from start to finish. That included everything, not just the shaping. The shaping would of course likely be at least half of that time, and will vary with your skillset. I likely sharpened blades once at the very beginning, and then 1 or two times during the process. If you're set up to sharpen, its likely worth doing it more often, so that you're touching-up the blade each time you start, and you're not having to remove considerable amounts of steel in a single go. Staying sharp also keeps the work easier. Another commenter on this video asked why I did not use a scrub plane to speed up the shaping process. Short story, I did not have one, and so took the long way. We have to work with what we have, right? At the time, I also did not have a bandsaw, but the jigsaw accomplished what I needed it to do. That said, if you're tool set allows it, you could reduce the time for shaping, particularly if you have a band saw. I made other paddles following the one shown in the video, and cut the primary profiles on a bandsaw. This hogged off a lot of material at the blade face taper in a much quicker fashion than I did previously with a plane...the caveat being that unless you're making a fairly narrow paddle, you'll need to find a bandsaw with an 8" or greater throat and tall cuts like that can be sketchy with the board stock held on edge. I've also hogged off material at the blade face with a router, which took longer than the bandsaw, but was more precise and controlled. The bandsaw (along with the experiences shown in this video) knocked the construction time in half. Planes still did the finish work. I hope that helps. Please reach out with other questions that come up. You can also email me at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com if you wish. Good luck!
Dear NC, fabulous craftsmanship! Not shown must be a fair bit of care in maintaining your plane and spokeshave edges - looks so easy as a result. Really curious about your epoxy edge guard - that also looked ingeniously straightforward. What's that product, and what approximate thickness of finished edge do you get? Well done!
Thank you Eliot! I received your email and will respond in kind there as well. For readers here though, sharp blades are paramount. For anyone new to using planes and spoke shaves, dull blades will have a lifelong impact after a single use: The frustration that ensues will LIE to ones psyche that knives are "old fashioned" tools meant for old dead craftsman. This is simply not true. Sharpen your knives, I use stones (800, 1000, 4000, 6000), and try again. It will amaze one how fast knives work material, and at the same time give very precise tactile control over ones work. It is not easy physically, but the techniques do become easier with practice. I remember working this project, and having the leading edge of the spoke shave (growing dull) catch/sink into the soft cedar, causing the spoke shave to roll and mar the surface. Ugh, lesson learned (believe me, multiple times). Keep working, adjust your grip, and you win either way. Either the blemishes are taken out with additional passes, OR, left in as a sort of Persian Flaw. Personality. Character. Whatever you call it, its the mark of a maker who was trying and learning and if happens to be your paddle, it's better with the flaw left in. My own opinion of course. As for the epoxy edge, it is made from a polyester gel coat from Fiberglast (685). I had it on hand to repair a canoe's gelcoat, and decided to use it as a "candy-coating" at the blades edge to enhance its durability. It certainly adds an aesthetic as well. The glass I used to reinforce the face of the paddle was not going to bend over the perimeter in any kind of beautiful way, so the gel coat provided some hard thickness, about 1/16" inch, at the edge, and then it was ultimately covered by clear resin. The glass did not wrap the paddle edges, but terminated at the outside edge of the gelcoat. I wouldn't give it a hard knifing-wack on a rock, but that's true of any paddle meant for lake travel. The paddle in this video has a few scratches but is still going strong after a handful of adventures! Thank you for commenting! I will respond to your email shortly!
Great video. I just read all the comments and your responses. Refreshing to see people discuss a topic with grace. Great craftsmanship. Meticulous. Patient. Love the epoxy edge in contrast colour. Could you help me understand please how you colour the epoxy? Cheers!
Hey Matt! Thanks for commenting. Of course! The epoxy was purchased as a color from a company called Fiberglast (www.fibreglast.com/category/colorgelcoat) It's pricy, but you can choose any RAL color. There may be other less expensive options, but the product was great. I had originally purchased the burgundy to repair a Mad River Kevlar canoe of mine, and so had plenty of extra to experiment with on the paddle. It requires an MEKP hardener and a Styrene wax to facilitate the curing process. I don't know what your experience is with epoxy so I'll stop explanation there. If you look into it, and have other questions, please feel free to reach out and I'm happy to share what I know, nebraskacanoe@gmail.com
I believe it was a Western Red Cedar. It's very lightweight, but still fairly strong. Because it is a soft wood, the glass and epoxy on the blade was necessary to increase it's durability.
Hardwood is an option that would certainly eliminate the need for a glass lamination! Plus, you can refinish it much easier and therefore it likely would have a longer life. Thanks for commenting!
Great comment Andrew! The reason is very technical, I do not have one. lol. For those reading, take note of what Andrew pointed out, as doing so would move through more material, quicker and easier. For me, I was still fairly new to planes, and so just accepted this as good practice. Thanks for the comment!
id never done woodworking before, so i used a few different resources to make a paddle, but i mostly referred to this video for both shaping and finishing. just finished the last coat of varnish. that west system is pricey but i think im glad i used it. its the nicest thing ive made. excellent tutorial and good job.
I'm grateful to hear you found the video useful in your endeavor! Epoxy and glass does certainly add another layer of cost. Now that you likely have some extra, you can experiment for future projects. You seem happy with how nice it came out. Glad to hear, and hats off to you for attempting a complex form for what sounds to be a first dabble in woodworking. Be careful, you'll be hooked! Thanks for commenting. If willing, send me a photo of your finished paddle at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com, I'd love to see it!
btw i found mixing small batches of 105 and 207 easier and more consistent by weight with a small digital scale. after some density measurements and calcs i found a mass ratio of 3.65 :1 = 105:207 worked. that push top system you used is probably the easiest method though.
Ha! Yes it is. Not ideal if you're looking to minimize the physical labor aspect, but diligence gets you there either way! Sometimes it's 6 of one, half dozen of another. Thanks for commenting.
Very nice!! Question. Would it not be a good idea to incorporate a hardwood laminate somewhere in the centre of the paddle to provide some rigidity to the soft and playable cedar? I was thinking of making one out of western red wood myself, but am concerned with the weakness and flex in the wood. Cheers!
Great question therealsparkman! Adding a hardwood down the center of the paddle would certainly provide additional rigidity - It would look nice too as a kind of pinstripe! Regarding this specific paddle though here are some thoughts: As my personal tastes go, I prefer solid wood paddles carved from a single stock - there is something pure and uncomplicated about this approach (and aesthetic), that for me, underscores the simple and versatile nature of a canoe. I would use the word "honesty", but that word went out-the-window when adding fiberglass and resin to the construction! Just like trimming a canoe for best performance, there was a balance struck here between aesthetics and function. I had similar concern about flex when choosing to use cedar. I chose that species because it's beautiful, light weight, and easy to carve. Because I wanted that "honest" aesthetic, I addressed the flex issue in other ways. The first was to orient the growth rings in the paddle as vertical as possible (±90 degrees to the paddle face and running straight the length of the paddle). Ideally this would have been carved from quarter-sawn lumber, but in my case, I decided to make due with rift-sawn. I felt this would make for a stiffer shaft (by keeping the wood in an optimal strength orientation) but may compromise the strength across the paddle face. And so, second, I laminated 4 oz fiberglass to both sides of the blade. This glass and resin skin acts similar to the flange on a beam, greatly stiffening and strengthening the paddle face; the cedar in the blade acts more as a spacer - the web on a beam. This is no different than what has been described in Canoecraft regarding cedar hull construction. Finally, as a sort of belt-and-suspenders, I left the blade a bit thicker, right around 1/4" thick at it's edge. Having now used the paddle quite a bit, I can say it's shown itself to have adequate rigidity and to be quite durable. I have no complaints, and I hope this helps! Thanks for your comment!
@@nebraskacanoe4891 I actually have been using Tulip wood for some friends.I end up going through about 30- 12 foot 5 - quarter planks just to find the special grain in them. the colours of the paddle are brown.green and purple. Hard to come by but id is worth it. I do not own a band saw or jig saw so I just rough cut it out with a chainsaw. Like you I make certain parts a bit thicker. Keep up the good work.
Nice work - I like that you varnished the bottom and oiled the top.
After some time of use, the soft cedar has seen decent wear from contacting gunnels (especially when aluminum). To your comment, I'm grateful to have used an oil finish along the entire shaft that is easily touched up and maintained.
I’ve watched 15 paddle videos just for the entertainment but yours is the first one that has actually shown how all the transitions are to be drawn out and how the shaft is an oval rather than flat or round. I’ve made a few paddles from maple and cherry. I used a paddle making book by Graham Warren which is an excellent resource. You took it a step farther with the perimeter epoxy.
Beautiful job.
John Byron Hommy, I'm glad to hear you saw something useful to you in the video! I'll check out the book you refer to in your comment. Feel free to reach out to me at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com with any questions. Thanks for your comment!
Meticulous indeed, very nice, made with ( almost unheard of these days) pride. You are a true craftsman sir.
Thank you Flatlander! Appreciate the kind comment, and glad you enjoyed.
Beautiful paddle!
I like the idea of using the belt sander in a lot of areas were you used a spoke shave ? It’s just that much faster. You did a great job. Thanks 👍🇨🇦
You bet! That tooling appears to be heavily utilized for its speed, especially in commercial production (which means it must work!). I found it particularly useful at the grip where one is moving across wood grain in all directions. It can be tough though to achieve some of the complex curves at the shoulder and throat areas where transitioning from oval shaft to flat blade. I think some commercially made paddles lose some of their beauty at these transitions due to their tooling and need for economies. For me, a bandsaw would also drastically decrease the time to arrive at a "blank". If you haven't worked with a plane, and maybe you have, I do hope you give a try if you ever have a chance. Their speed and control will surprise you, not to mention the enjoyment of the process! Thanks for chiming in with your thoughts Tom!
Xie xie for the best video I have seen on crafting a work of art needed to propell a canoe. I just began gluing up handles and blades for three paddles. You explained just what I need to know to get close to a finished product. I need some whitewater strength so laminated 1/4" oak along old growth cedar. Also a few small knots in that wood so being careful. Blades will be Sitka spruce for one, yellow cedar another and likely cypress for the 3rd. All wood that has been aging for 30-years. Waiting for the pertect project. Really man, a great job on your work and many thanks for the mentorship.
You're very welcome Vince! I'm glad you found useful information in it and appreciate the kind words. Your plans for three paddle sound spectacular. What better objects to make from the aged pieces of wood. Hat's off to you in your endeavors and hope the paddles come out reflecting their maker. I enjoyed the adventures on your channel. Miss Healey looks like a very enjoyable ride!! If you wish, when your paddles are complete, send me over a picture at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com, I'd love to see them!
Sir. You know what I enjoyed the most of this video? The attention to detail and how methodical you were in laying everything out and using your own templates for measuring guides. A person of my own ideology. Also, I was planning to make a paddle myself and masking the blade with tape so that I could pour epoxy around the edges to provide some added protection from rough surfaces. However, you already proceeded with that thought. Well done! The only constructive critique that I have is if you would have added some dialogue as to why you were doing some of the steps that you were doing. Not a big deal. A very succinct creative video. Cheers to you for doing it. One of the best ones I've seen.
Great to hear from you again Therealsparkman! I've considered releasing a version of the video with commentary to deliver some of the more in depth information that you speak of in your comment. I want to be careful though to not create "how-to" videos. I prefer they spark an interest and bring questions via comments, like yours, to which I can more specifically respond. There is no need to wait for a coming video, feel free to email me at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com about any specific questions regarding the steps I took in the video. I'd be happy to respond and offer what I can as you pursue making your own paddle! Thanks for watching!
Awesome paddle! It’s nice to see someone taking such care while working. It’s easy to see that you care about your craft and do a very nice job of it!
Josh, thanks! We invest in things we care about don't we?! For me, paddling and woodworking are certainly two of those things I've found worth investing my time and effort into! Thanks for watching!
Impressive
Amazing love to have one of my own
Well done, on both the paddle and the video. Simple and sweet.
Thanks Skypieper - I enjoyed browsing your hunting videos, not being a hunter myself! Great find on the pistol in the wetlands.
@@nebraskacanoe4891 Thx for checking out my channel. I subbed. Haven't watched it yet but looking forward to your canoe restoration, and any other future projects.
And there I am, thinking I need a boat load of machinery to make my own paddle.... I turns out, all you need is craftsmanship. Well done sir.
Thanks AJcanoe1! All the while I was thinking, "A bandsaw sure would be nice!" Alas, I can always use the extra practice in patience. The canoe certainly demands it of us!
I’m actually about to attempt to create a traditional ottertail paddle as a passion project for grade 10 woodwork
Awesome, good luck! If you feel like it when you're through, send over a photo of the paddle to nebraskacanoe@gmail.com. I'd love to see how it turns out! Don't hesitate to reach out with any questions.
Totally “borrowing” the date idea, super cool idea! What a gorgeous paddle!
Awesome, good to hear! Take it and call it yours! Note to self - give yourself time to make the text straight and let dry. I rushed adding the date to another paddle I made after this -- as I had already mixed epoxy and then realized I wanted to add a date -- the story ends with text that's not quite straight and a little muddy :( I'll consider it a Persian Flaw! Good luck to you and yours!
Nice
Thanks so much for sharing your special journey in making a paddle. Do you know where I might find details on your design measurements?
Matthew, you are welcome, I'm glad you enjoyed. Try the following link: archive.org/details/problemsinwoodwo00murr/page/32/mode/1up
If that doesn't get you there, shoot me an email at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com and I'll send you a copy.
@@nebraskacanoe4891 thanks so much. I just found some western red cedar in my shed!
Best 21:34 of my day. Thanx Well Done!
Ken, so glad you enjoyed the video! I'm glad it could provide a small boost to someone's day!
What a true craftsman. So impressed !
Ben Swift thank you! Glad you enjoyed!
Your paddle looks great.
I’m thinking of making a paddle, which led me to your video. Can you give me a rough estimate of how many hours it took you to shape your paddle? How often did you have to stop and sharpen your blades?
Matt, thanks! And thank you for the question! Hmm...I recall the paddle taking about 20-25hrs all in from start to finish. That included everything, not just the shaping. The shaping would of course likely be at least half of that time, and will vary with your skillset. I likely sharpened blades once at the very beginning, and then 1 or two times during the process. If you're set up to sharpen, its likely worth doing it more often, so that you're touching-up the blade each time you start, and you're not having to remove considerable amounts of steel in a single go. Staying sharp also keeps the work easier. Another commenter on this video asked why I did not use a scrub plane to speed up the shaping process. Short story, I did not have one, and so took the long way. We have to work with what we have, right? At the time, I also did not have a bandsaw, but the jigsaw accomplished what I needed it to do. That said, if you're tool set allows it, you could reduce the time for shaping, particularly if you have a band saw. I made other paddles following the one shown in the video, and cut the primary profiles on a bandsaw. This hogged off a lot of material at the blade face taper in a much quicker fashion than I did previously with a plane...the caveat being that unless you're making a fairly narrow paddle, you'll need to find a bandsaw with an 8" or greater throat and tall cuts like that can be sketchy with the board stock held on edge. I've also hogged off material at the blade face with a router, which took longer than the bandsaw, but was more precise and controlled. The bandsaw (along with the experiences shown in this video) knocked the construction time in half. Planes still did the finish work. I hope that helps. Please reach out with other questions that come up. You can also email me at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com if you wish. Good luck!
Dear NC, fabulous craftsmanship! Not shown must be a fair bit of care in maintaining your plane and spokeshave edges - looks so easy as a result. Really curious about your epoxy edge guard - that also looked ingeniously straightforward. What's that product, and what approximate thickness of finished edge do you get? Well done!
Thank you Eliot! I received your email and will respond in kind there as well. For readers here though, sharp blades are paramount. For anyone new to using planes and spoke shaves, dull blades will have a lifelong impact after a single use: The frustration that ensues will LIE to ones psyche that knives are "old fashioned" tools meant for old dead craftsman. This is simply not true. Sharpen your knives, I use stones (800, 1000, 4000, 6000), and try again. It will amaze one how fast knives work material, and at the same time give very precise tactile control over ones work. It is not easy physically, but the techniques do become easier with practice. I remember working this project, and having the leading edge of the spoke shave (growing dull) catch/sink into the soft cedar, causing the spoke shave to roll and mar the surface. Ugh, lesson learned (believe me, multiple times). Keep working, adjust your grip, and you win either way. Either the blemishes are taken out with additional passes, OR, left in as a sort of Persian Flaw. Personality. Character. Whatever you call it, its the mark of a maker who was trying and learning and if happens to be your paddle, it's better with the flaw left in. My own opinion of course.
As for the epoxy edge, it is made from a polyester gel coat from Fiberglast (685). I had it on hand to repair a canoe's gelcoat, and decided to use it as a "candy-coating" at the blades edge to enhance its durability. It certainly adds an aesthetic as well. The glass I used to reinforce the face of the paddle was not going to bend over the perimeter in any kind of beautiful way, so the gel coat provided some hard thickness, about 1/16" inch, at the edge, and then it was ultimately covered by clear resin. The glass did not wrap the paddle edges, but terminated at the outside edge of the gelcoat. I wouldn't give it a hard knifing-wack on a rock, but that's true of any paddle meant for lake travel. The paddle in this video has a few scratches but is still going strong after a handful of adventures!
Thank you for commenting! I will respond to your email shortly!
Great video.
I just read all the comments and your responses. Refreshing to see people discuss a topic with grace.
Great craftsmanship. Meticulous. Patient.
Love the epoxy edge in contrast colour. Could you help me understand please how you colour the epoxy?
Cheers!
Hey Matt! Thanks for commenting. Of course! The epoxy was purchased as a color from a company called Fiberglast (www.fibreglast.com/category/colorgelcoat) It's pricy, but you can choose any RAL color. There may be other less expensive options, but the product was great. I had originally purchased the burgundy to repair a Mad River Kevlar canoe of mine, and so had plenty of extra to experiment with on the paddle. It requires an MEKP hardener and a Styrene wax to facilitate the curing process. I don't know what your experience is with epoxy so I'll stop explanation there. If you look into it, and have other questions, please feel free to reach out and I'm happy to share what I know, nebraskacanoe@gmail.com
Ha, a couple corrections already! It's friday... I refer to it as a resin, it is a polyester gel coat. Also, the company is FIbre Glast.
@@nebraskacanoe4891 Thanks for the info and the clarification!
good afternoon friend, I'm Brazilian my name is tarcísio, what was the wood you used?
I believe it was a Western Red Cedar. It's very lightweight, but still fairly strong. Because it is a soft wood, the glass and epoxy on the blade was necessary to increase it's durability.
Beautiful! I would have used a hardwood though...
Hardwood is an option that would certainly eliminate the need for a glass lamination! Plus, you can refinish it much easier and therefore it likely would have a longer life. Thanks for commenting!
I am curious why they don't start with a scrub plane?
Great comment Andrew! The reason is very technical, I do not have one. lol. For those reading, take note of what Andrew pointed out, as doing so would move through more material, quicker and easier. For me, I was still fairly new to planes, and so just accepted this as good practice. Thanks for the comment!
id never done woodworking before, so i used a few different resources to make a paddle, but i mostly referred to this video for both shaping and finishing. just finished the last coat of varnish. that west system is pricey but i think im glad i used it. its the nicest thing ive made. excellent tutorial and good job.
I'm grateful to hear you found the video useful in your endeavor! Epoxy and glass does certainly add another layer of cost. Now that you likely have some extra, you can experiment for future projects. You seem happy with how nice it came out. Glad to hear, and hats off to you for attempting a complex form for what sounds to be a first dabble in woodworking. Be careful, you'll be hooked! Thanks for commenting. If willing, send me a photo of your finished paddle at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com, I'd love to see it!
just did. thanks again.
btw i found mixing small batches of 105 and 207 easier and more consistent by weight with a small digital scale. after some density measurements and calcs i found a mass ratio of 3.65 :1 = 105:207 worked. that push top system you used is probably the easiest method though.
Fantastic job and a really good video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Beautiful workmanship!
Thanks Boatman!
Good work out starting out with wood that thick huh?
Ha! Yes it is. Not ideal if you're looking to minimize the physical labor aspect, but diligence gets you there either way! Sometimes it's 6 of one, half dozen of another. Thanks for commenting.
Music?
That was an awesome video
Thanks James! I'm glad you enjoyed.
Very nice!! Question. Would it not be a good idea to incorporate a hardwood laminate somewhere in the centre of the paddle to provide some rigidity to the soft and playable cedar? I was thinking of making one out of western red wood myself, but am concerned with the weakness and flex in the wood. Cheers!
Great question therealsparkman! Adding a hardwood down the center of the paddle would certainly provide additional rigidity - It would look nice too as a kind of pinstripe! Regarding this specific paddle though here are some thoughts: As my personal tastes go, I prefer solid wood paddles carved from a single stock - there is something pure and uncomplicated about this approach (and aesthetic), that for me, underscores the simple and versatile nature of a canoe. I would use the word "honesty", but that word went out-the-window when adding fiberglass and resin to the construction! Just like trimming a canoe for best performance, there was a balance struck here between aesthetics and function. I had similar concern about flex when choosing to use cedar. I chose that species because it's beautiful, light weight, and easy to carve. Because I wanted that "honest" aesthetic, I addressed the flex issue in other ways. The first was to orient the growth rings in the paddle as vertical as possible (±90 degrees to the paddle face and running straight the length of the paddle). Ideally this would have been carved from quarter-sawn lumber, but in my case, I decided to make due with rift-sawn. I felt this would make for a stiffer shaft (by keeping the wood in an optimal strength orientation) but may compromise the strength across the paddle face. And so, second, I laminated 4 oz fiberglass to both sides of the blade. This glass and resin skin acts similar to the flange on a beam, greatly stiffening and strengthening the paddle face; the cedar in the blade acts more as a spacer - the web on a beam. This is no different than what has been described in Canoecraft regarding cedar hull construction. Finally, as a sort of belt-and-suspenders, I left the blade a bit thicker, right around 1/4" thick at it's edge. Having now used the paddle quite a bit, I can say it's shown itself to have adequate rigidity and to be quite durable. I have no complaints, and I hope this helps! Thanks for your comment!
@@nebraskacanoe4891 I actually have been using Tulip wood for some friends.I end up going through about 30- 12 foot 5 - quarter planks just to find the special grain in them. the colours of the paddle are brown.green and purple. Hard to come by but id is worth it. I do not own a band saw or jig saw so I just rough cut it out with a chainsaw. Like you I make certain parts a bit thicker. Keep up the good work.
@@philipaziz1 Sounds awesome! I hate sorting through a stack of lumber, but do love when it pays off as you describe! Thanks for the tip!
Danke für dieses Video! Großartig!
Thanks for watching!
Nice job!
Thanks! I appreciate it!