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Jason, great question! I did not make the gunwales myself. I ordered them from edscanoe.com. Take a look at their website under "Canoe Components" and look for Knock Down Gunwale System. I don't remember if the epoxy, to assemble them, came with the order or not? It may have. The gunwales worked fairly well, but I would have preferred to use a single piece if it was feasible. If not, the knockdown gunwales to seem to get the job done. Not sure how close you are to Navarro Canoes in Northwest Illinois but, if close, don't pass up reaching out direct to Navarro as well for parts if their willing to sell them to you. I was able to purchase replacement decks and seats direct from Merrimack. Good luck to you on your endeavor! If you wish to share, don't hesitate to send some photos of your project to nebraskacanoe@gmail.com, I'd love to see what you're working on!

You're very welcome Vince! I'm glad you found useful information in it and appreciate the kind words. Your plans for three paddle sound spectacular. What better objects to make from the aged pieces of wood. Hat's off to you in your endeavors and hope the paddles come out reflecting their maker. I enjoyed the adventures on your channel. Miss Healey looks like a very enjoyable ride!! If you wish, when your paddles are complete, send me over a picture at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com, I'd love to see them!

I'm grateful to hear you found the video useful in your endeavor! Epoxy and glass does certainly add another layer of cost. Now that you likely have some extra, you can experiment for future projects. You seem happy with how nice it came out. Glad to hear, and hats off to you for attempting a complex form for what sounds to be a first dabble in woodworking. Be careful, you'll be hooked! Thanks for commenting. If willing, send me a photo of your finished paddle at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com, I'd love to see it!

just did. thanks again.

btw i found mixing small batches of 105 and 207 easier and more consistent by weight with a small digital scale. after some density measurements and calcs i found a mass ratio of 3.65 :1 = 105:207 worked. that push top system you used is probably the easiest method though.

Thanks James! I'm glad you enjoyed.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Hey Matt! Thanks for commenting. Of course! The epoxy was purchased as a color from a company called Fiberglast (www.fibreglast.com/category/colorgelcoat) It's pricy, but you can choose any RAL color. There may be other less expensive options, but the product was great. I had originally purchased the burgundy to repair a Mad River Kevlar canoe of mine, and so had plenty of extra to experiment with on the paddle. It requires an MEKP hardener and a Styrene wax to facilitate the curing process. I don't know what your experience is with epoxy so I'll stop explanation there. If you look into it, and have other questions, please feel free to reach out and I'm happy to share what I know, nebraskacanoe@gmail.com

Ha, a couple corrections already! It's friday... I refer to it as a resin, it is a polyester gel coat. Also, the company is FIbre Glast.

@@nebraskacanoe4891 Thanks for the info and the clarification!

Thanks! I appreciate it!

Matt, thanks! And thank you for the question! Hmm...I recall the paddle taking about 20-25hrs all in from start to finish. That included everything, not just the shaping. The shaping would of course likely be at least half of that time, and will vary with your skillset. I likely sharpened blades once at the very beginning, and then 1 or two times during the process. If you're set up to sharpen, its likely worth doing it more often, so that you're touching-up the blade each time you start, and you're not having to remove considerable amounts of steel in a single go. Staying sharp also keeps the work easier. Another commenter on this video asked why I did not use a scrub plane to speed up the shaping process. Short story, I did not have one, and so took the long way. We have to work with what we have, right? At the time, I also did not have a bandsaw, but the jigsaw accomplished what I needed it to do. That said, if you're tool set allows it, you could reduce the time for shaping, particularly if you have a band saw. I made other paddles following the one shown in the video, and cut the primary profiles on a bandsaw. This hogged off a lot of material at the blade face taper in a much quicker fashion than I did previously with a plane...the caveat being that unless you're making a fairly narrow paddle, you'll need to find a bandsaw with an 8" or greater throat and tall cuts like that can be sketchy with the board stock held on edge. I've also hogged off material at the blade face with a router, which took longer than the bandsaw, but was more precise and controlled. The bandsaw (along with the experiences shown in this video) knocked the construction time in half. Planes still did the finish work. I hope that helps. Please reach out with other questions that come up. You can also email me at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com if you wish. Good luck!

Thanks Boatman!

Thank you Andrew. I appreciate it. I hope you got something out of it!

Great comment Andrew! The reason is very technical, I do not have one. lol. For those reading, take note of what Andrew pointed out, as doing so would move through more material, quicker and easier. For me, I was still fairly new to planes, and so just accepted this as good practice. Thanks for the comment!

Ha! Yes it is. Not ideal if you're looking to minimize the physical labor aspect, but diligence gets you there either way! Sometimes it's 6 of one, half dozen of another. Thanks for commenting.

Josh, thanks! We invest in things we care about don't we?! For me, paddling and woodworking are certainly two of those things I've found worth investing my time and effort into! Thanks for watching!

Hey TokenCanoeGuy, I'm glad you like the videos! For the epoxy, I used West System 105/205. I did not consider vinyl acetate resin, but my knowledge of resins is young. I will say, the epoxy I used would not provide UV protection (which I think is important). If the vinyl acetate would provide that, it may be a better option. Feel free to reach out to me at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com as you work on your project. I'd love to hear about it and happy to share any "lessons learned" where I can.

Thank you Eliot! I received your email and will respond in kind there as well. For readers here though, sharp blades are paramount. For anyone new to using planes and spoke shaves, dull blades will have a lifelong impact after a single use: The frustration that ensues will LIE to ones psyche that knives are "old fashioned" tools meant for old dead craftsman. This is simply not true. Sharpen your knives, I use stones (800, 1000, 4000, 6000), and try again. It will amaze one how fast knives work material, and at the same time give very precise tactile control over ones work. It is not easy physically, but the techniques do become easier with practice. I remember working this project, and having the leading edge of the spoke shave (growing dull) catch/sink into the soft cedar, causing the spoke shave to roll and mar the surface. Ugh, lesson learned (believe me, multiple times). Keep working, adjust your grip, and you win either way. Either the blemishes are taken out with additional passes, OR, left in as a sort of Persian Flaw. Personality. Character. Whatever you call it, its the mark of a maker who was trying and learning and if happens to be your paddle, it's better with the flaw left in. My own opinion of course. As for the epoxy edge, it is made from a polyester gel coat from Fiberglast (685). I had it on hand to repair a canoe's gelcoat, and decided to use it as a "candy-coating" at the blades edge to enhance its durability. It certainly adds an aesthetic as well. The glass I used to reinforce the face of the paddle was not going to bend over the perimeter in any kind of beautiful way, so the gel coat provided some hard thickness, about 1/16" inch, at the edge, and then it was ultimately covered by clear resin. The glass did not wrap the paddle edges, but terminated at the outside edge of the gelcoat. I wouldn't give it a hard knifing-wack on a rock, but that's true of any paddle meant for lake travel. The paddle in this video has a few scratches but is still going strong after a handful of adventures! Thank you for commenting! I will respond to your email shortly!

I believe it was a Western Red Cedar. It's very lightweight, but still fairly strong. Because it is a soft wood, the glass and epoxy on the blade was necessary to increase it's durability.

Yes, the dimensions are in inches. Thanks.

John Byron Hommy, I'm glad to hear you saw something useful to you in the video! I'll check out the book you refer to in your comment. Feel free to reach out to me at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com with any questions. Thanks for your comment!

Thanks for watching!

Wayne, I'm not quite sure exactly what you mean with your comment. Feel free to expound by way of a reply. However, I will add that whatever tools one uses to design and plan a project of this nature, there is no substitution for craftsmanship and skills to manipulate design of a wood project on the fly with ones hands. Great carpenters excel at this, and perhaps you're one of them. No matter how crispy a plan is, CAD or the like, the making will not always go according to it. In my opinion, it is in how the skills of the maker addresses these challenges during the build that makes a truly great outcome. While Computer Aided Drafting is an invaluable tool, I'd never promote it over a pencil and paper. And in the case of a paddle, it couldn't hurt to "just wing it" either! Thanks for commenting!

Ken, so glad you enjoyed the video! I'm glad it could provide a small boost to someone's day!

Hardwood is an option that would certainly eliminate the need for a glass lamination! Plus, you can refinish it much easier and therefore it likely would have a longer life. Thanks for commenting!

Thanks Skypieper - I enjoyed browsing your hunting videos, not being a hunter myself! Great find on the pistol in the wetlands.

@@nebraskacanoe4891 Thx for checking out my channel. I subbed. Haven't watched it yet but looking forward to your canoe restoration, and any other future projects.

Yes, this reservoir was recently drained and is currently refilling. It appears to have various dead tree structures placed into it that are weighted down - I'm assuming to provide fish habitat...Seeing it partially exposed, and manipulated by the ice floe, made it take on a mysterious life of its own!

Ben Swift thank you! Glad you enjoyed!

Great question. Thanks for asking. I really should post more information in the video summary! The software is Rhinoceros 3D. This is all, however, done with same commands and tools offered by drafting platforms like AutoCAD.

Hey! Thanks! It is good to hear from you and I'm glad you enjoyed the video!

Thanks!

Great to hear from you again Therealsparkman! I've considered releasing a version of the video with commentary to deliver some of the more in depth information that you speak of in your comment. I want to be careful though to not create "how-to" videos. I prefer they spark an interest and bring questions via comments, like yours, to which I can more specifically respond. There is no need to wait for a coming video, feel free to email me at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com about any specific questions regarding the steps I took in the video. I'd be happy to respond and offer what I can as you pursue making your own paddle! Thanks for watching!

Matthew, you are welcome, I'm glad you enjoyed. Try the following link: archive.org/details/problemsinwoodwo00murr/page/32/mode/1up If that doesn't get you there, shoot me an email at nebraskacanoe@gmail.com and I'll send you a copy.

@@nebraskacanoe4891 thanks so much. I just found some western red cedar in my shed!

Awesome, good to hear! Take it and call it yours! Note to self - give yourself time to make the text straight and let dry. I rushed adding the date to another paddle I made after this -- as I had already mixed epoxy and then realized I wanted to add a date -- the story ends with text that's not quite straight and a little muddy :( I'll consider it a Persian Flaw! Good luck to you and yours!

Thank you AJcanoe1! Glad you enjoyed!

Thanks! Given the twisting curve of the gunwales, it took some serious clamping pressure to seat the decks well to the inwales. The second deck finished out better than the first!

After some time of use, the soft cedar has seen decent wear from contacting gunnels (especially when aluminum). To your comment, I'm grateful to have used an oil finish along the entire shaft that is easily touched up and maintained.

You bet! That tooling appears to be heavily utilized for its speed, especially in commercial production (which means it must work!). I found it particularly useful at the grip where one is moving across wood grain in all directions. It can be tough though to achieve some of the complex curves at the shoulder and throat areas where transitioning from oval shaft to flat blade. I think some commercially made paddles lose some of their beauty at these transitions due to their tooling and need for economies. For me, a bandsaw would also drastically decrease the time to arrive at a "blank". If you haven't worked with a plane, and maybe you have, I do hope you give a try if you ever have a chance. Their speed and control will surprise you, not to mention the enjoyment of the process! Thanks for chiming in with your thoughts Tom!

Great question therealsparkman! Adding a hardwood down the center of the paddle would certainly provide additional rigidity - It would look nice too as a kind of pinstripe! Regarding this specific paddle though here are some thoughts: As my personal tastes go, I prefer solid wood paddles carved from a single stock - there is something pure and uncomplicated about this approach (and aesthetic), that for me, underscores the simple and versatile nature of a canoe. I would use the word "honesty", but that word went out-the-window when adding fiberglass and resin to the construction! Just like trimming a canoe for best performance, there was a balance struck here between aesthetics and function. I had similar concern about flex when choosing to use cedar. I chose that species because it's beautiful, light weight, and easy to carve. Because I wanted that "honest" aesthetic, I addressed the flex issue in other ways. The first was to orient the growth rings in the paddle as vertical as possible (±90 degrees to the paddle face and running straight the length of the paddle). Ideally this would have been carved from quarter-sawn lumber, but in my case, I decided to make due with rift-sawn. I felt this would make for a stiffer shaft (by keeping the wood in an optimal strength orientation) but may compromise the strength across the paddle face. And so, second, I laminated 4 oz fiberglass to both sides of the blade. This glass and resin skin acts similar to the flange on a beam, greatly stiffening and strengthening the paddle face; the cedar in the blade acts more as a spacer - the web on a beam. This is no different than what has been described in Canoecraft regarding cedar hull construction. Finally, as a sort of belt-and-suspenders, I left the blade a bit thicker, right around 1/4" thick at it's edge. Having now used the paddle quite a bit, I can say it's shown itself to have adequate rigidity and to be quite durable. I have no complaints, and I hope this helps! Thanks for your comment!

@@nebraskacanoe4891 I actually have been using Tulip wood for some friends.I end up going through about 30- 12 foot 5 - quarter planks just to find the special grain in them. the colours of the paddle are brown.green and purple. Hard to come by but id is worth it. I do not own a band saw or jig saw so I just rough cut it out with a chainsaw. Like you I make certain parts a bit thicker. Keep up the good work.

@@philipaziz1 Sounds awesome! I hate sorting through a stack of lumber, but do love when it pays off as you describe! Thanks for the tip!

Awesome, good luck! If you feel like it when you're through, send over a photo of the paddle to nebraskacanoe@gmail.com. I'd love to see how it turns out! Don't hesitate to reach out with any questions.

Thanks AJcanoe1! All the while I was thinking, "A bandsaw sure would be nice!" Alas, I can always use the extra practice in patience. The canoe certainly demands it of us!

Thank you Flatlander! Appreciate the kind comment, and glad you enjoyed.