I love how you explain everything you show us here. I'm a new painter and have been watching quite some videos and I hear about techniques all new to me and most painters skip over them and leave me confused. Thank you for this one! My skeleton warriors will be fine now 😊
Hello, I'm developing a miniature area in my boardgame shop in Brussels this year, and your videos help me a lot learning painting and understanding better the hobby, so thanks ;-)
Love the tutorial Adam! The technique you are referring to is called over brushing. Kind of like a heavy drybrush, but avoiding certain areas of the miniature.
Well done! This is essentially how I painted skeletons about 25 years ago. Though mine were a bit more "recently raised" from a European climate so were a bit darker with less even highlighting, but did have lighter teeth for contrast. The armour was darker and more rusted with any bronze having heavier patina. Any leather or cloth had a dark brown (muddy) effect. Haven't thought of these in years! Thanks for reminding of them - fun figures, the old RalParthas and such. :-)
+georgedebleu That's one of the main reasons I love painting miniatures: I love thinking about the mini's story while I'm painting them, and that story drives how I paint them. Thanks for watching!
+Marcus Bilky I do get comments on my voice, and it's not the first time I've been called Bob Ross. Thanks for the compliment, and thanks for watching!
I do a very similar thing with my skeletons, except i undercoat everything, i.e. paint all the cloth, metal, glowing eyes and rust and whatnot, and then finish with a dark brown was (agrax earthshade usually) it works phenominally when you have 4 units of 20 skellies to do up, gets a really dark and gritty sort of look. personally reminds me of army of darkness, in the best of ways! Keep on being awesome!
in fact, if you prime with white, and paint on a layer paint (ushabti bone is what i used, the blend of the wash works fantastically, and you don't need a drybrush (saving a bit of time, but admittedly not much. over 80 models though..)
Like the idea for this series a lot - about to start my skeleton horde and this is perfect. If you want to do more of these videos, maybe mounting the close camera of your left side so you aren't putting your dominant hand in front of it might help a bit. I agree though, I usually have a model closer to my face when I'm painting.
I did recently switch the second camera to the left side (if you notice in the videos I've been doing with Sam) and it has certainly helped. Thanks for watching!
I've been considering trying out Age of Sigmar after I get my Necron army sorted out. This helps a ton since I was wanting to go for masses of skeletons.
This honestly gave me an idea for a side quest. In a certain area there will be Skeleton encounters with good weapons in perfect condition. If the party defeats them and moves on that's fine, but if they try to investigate their will be some sort of mystery behind it like a secret weapon stache, or a group of necromancers making a well armed army ready to take over a town, etc..
Another stormin' vid, warts an' all! It obviously wasn't an easy one to do, so congrats on sticking with it - must've taken a lot of time and editing, but very impressed to see you physically applying paint stuffs - so many other vids skip this important bit! Some really informative commentary about colours and design / paint choices as well - you are truly a fountain of knowledge and an inspiration to me... Now all I need to do is get brave, stop procrastinating and get on with it... Eeek!
+999slawter I'm pretty sure there's no reason you couldn't. The next Start Collecting boxes come with round bases, but I'm sure you could find older square bases online somewhere. Thanks for watching!
At 21 minutes you recommend alcohol as a filter. You can also add a drop of washing up liquid to the water, which will break the water tension and make it apply a little smoother.
+Broken Colony I've had liquid soap work great for making a wash (where I want the pigment to go to the recesses and I want the fluid to break and not settle on the flat areas) but I've never had any luck using it in a filter, where I want the pigment to collect in the recesses and ALSO leave a thin layer in the flat areas. Thanks for watching!
Obviously brushes are a personal preference, but I find the citadel brushes to be cheap nor crappy. But then again, they're not very expensive and I find you get great quality for your money with them.
Been watching your video's for quite a while now, while I consider myself a pretty good painter I have been waiting for your tutorials :D - This one's great cause I'm a pretty slow painter (Paint for hobby rather than gaming) but I've just recently received 3 armies to paint, one of them undead, so it's pretty relevant and I think I can now hammer out the skeletons pretty fast :D - Keep them coming!! and Thanks! Oh also, with the Nihilakh Oxide, Try putting it on thicker like a wash, but then rubbing it off with your finger after a few seconds gives a really awesome effect - Try it on something cheap and nasty first tho ;)
+Carl Mayne I'll totally try that on some test models or something, because I have all these Putrid Blightkings which I actually primed this evening. I'd love to use this stuff to a cool effect on their armor and weapons. Thanks for watching!
Renewed interest in miniatures after a 20-25 year hiatus. If you are doing batches/multiples, is it best to use multiple floating pill cases or attach a batch of miniatures to one stand? The latter seems difficult for rotation... Thanks, and nice work!
Wow! Thanks for this tutorial, it was great! I usually paint/sculpt on Lego minifigures, just because they're a fairly great base, but I think these techniques could help me out on my customs (because that's what we Lego-painters call them). Just question, could I reach the estimate quality of Citadel washes/shades by adding some water and/or alcohol to Apple Barrel paints?
+Gold Tutorials Probably not. The problem with just trying to make washes by watering down paint is that it looks great until just before the moment that it dried. Then, the surface tension sucks a bunch of the pigment up out of the crevices and makes these "tide marks' on the flat surfaces. You need to add something to the mix to make a good wash. Some people use Future Floor Polish, some people use detergent... do a Google search for 'making a miniatures wash' and you'll find a bunch of good resources. Thanks for watching!
random question: I've got some citadel paints that are old but of course always kept tightly sealed etc. - BUT , I'm noticing tiny specks of what could only be paint itself (reason why paint cans are shaken on a machine and why you shake a closed pot to "stir" it) - I suppose my query best worded would be : how common is this annoyance and should I try some more "aggressive shaking" or even stirring?
Have you tried any of the drybrushing paint from GW? I bought a marine starter pa I that came with sample paint and the silver was one of them. Interesting sponge-like material.
liked the video. i'm an amatuer for this kind of hobby . just bought skeleton horde just like yours.i primed them with gray.can i use zadri dust for the base coat of the skeleton?
idk whether you will still answer on this years old vid, but I am currently trying to paint skelletons and I am a new painter. I was just wondering whether to put a highling white primer from above onto the bone primer makes any sense. What do u think?
You certainly could. It adds an extra step, and if you have a lot of skeletons to paint, it’ll add a bit of extra time, but otherwise it’d probably look good. Thanks for watching!
So I use a similar, but slightly shorter process by changing the order of my steps. I use a light grey primer instead of the sand/khaki color to bring lightness to the party first. Then I do a dry brush over the entire thing with the khaki but I do it in a bottom-up style to add darkness and brown to the under sides. Then I go do the bone color going top-down. After that I do the black parts, but also include the eye sockets. Then metalics and any other base colors I need to do, followed the the washes which I use a black wash for everything, and a brown wash for the bones or anything bronze like. Finally I add rust by stippling on a tiny amount of black over the steel and some orange and brown in increasing amounts in that order. When that's all done I just do highlights with the bleached bone or ivory, cut in the eyes (making sure the black there is only in the hole and not around it) and possibly touch up the metalics to reduce the rust. I can do a batch of skeletons in that way in about 2 hours including dry time.
Ever thought of making a mini of yourself ? I'd like to have a mini of Atom pulling his shirt up to reveal nurgly mouths and eyes. It would need a mount , perhaps that cat. No, the cat should sit on one shoulder and hold a pike. Seriously though thanks for vid and keep it up , I love this one as I too love skeletons since I saw the Ray Harryhausen stop-motion animated ones in movies as a kid. Great techniques and video in general -- Thanks again.
I gave up on Krylon cans when 5 of them in a row just shot huge blots of paint everywhere. I tried all tricks online: heat up can, shake for 1 minute, spray before target and after; always keep moving - did not matter. Airbrushing bases saved my miniatures career.
Adam you have to get good brushes. Buy a windsor newton 7 series size 1. It will cost less than one artificer GW brush and it will last a lifetime, and you only really need that one brush for everything. It's cheaper and much better.
na, just get the cheap pack from Micheals where you get like 20 brushes for a few bucks. The brush doesn't last too long but its so cheap you just grab a new one.
I've never understood the point of simulating light hitting the model from above. If you can see the model there must and will be actual light hitting it, creating that effect naturally. So what's the point?
Daniel Beam I'm pretty sure it's to make the effect more noticeable from a distance, but I'm not exactly sure. I might paint a model with that technique and one without and compare them. Good question!
The effect of light and shadows become less obvious and simply put "wrong" on a miniature compared to a regular/full sized human since the light is the same but the object its hitting much smaller.
*"A very heavy wet dry-brush..."* --- *"Skeletons are not known for their cleanliness..."* --- *"Skeletons rarely kinda hang around by themselves... They're not known to be loners..."* And it is these tidbits of wealthy knowledge, ladies and gentlemen, that keep me 'tuned in' to the videos on this (my favorite hobby) channel-- Just curious, though, on how you came to know so much about the cultural/social interaction and hygienic habits of the "flesh impaired. " Did you do the "Jane Goodall" thing and live with them a while, or what? 🖒💀
random : thanks for convincing me to get an airbrush asap - from your chan and others I've been watching , especially since I've been watching lotta Dreadfleet and everyone uses airbrushes - definitely on my list to Santa or whatever.
Yeah, airbrush is really great, especially if you live somewhere (like I do) where priming with a rattle can outside is un-doable for many months of the year. Thanks for watching!
+Carter Millar For bigger miniatures, I generally use pill bottles. I've also seen people use small blocks of wood. The paint sticks would great for high numbers of smaller minis, thiough. Thanks for watching!
+zezorc From Wikipedia: "Patina is a thin layer that variously forms (a small amount of surface rust, without pitting) on the surface of stone; on copper, bronze and similar metals (such as any ferrous metals, i.e. steels and irons) (tarnish produced by oxidation (rust) or other chemical processes); on wooden furniture (sheen produced by age, wear, and polishing); or any such acquired change of a surface through age and exposure. Patinas can provide a protective covering to materials that would otherwise be damaged by corrosion or weathering. They may also be aesthetically appealing, in otherwords: fly." I added that last bit, it's from one of my favorite songs. Anyway, verdigris is a specific type of patina that is green (hence the 'verdi' part, I think) and is on copper and bronze stuff, so we're both right! Thanks for watching!
+zezorc No problem, English IS my native language and I still thought I might have been using the wrong word. Now we both learned something! Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions Hey by the way, are you planning on doing the same for GW's ghouls? I have dozens of them still only primed and I have absolutely no idea how I'm supposed to paint these lovely creatures :)
+Caleb Titus I'm pretty sure these are the models I used: www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Vampire-Counts-Skeleton-Warriors I had the box in my basement for a long time, but I'm pretty sure they're the same set. Thanks for watching!
Tabletop Minions, I always enjoy your videos. I've got around 80 Imperial Guardsmen to assemble and paint, and to be honest it's so daunting, I haven't started. I've even got a new airbrush for base coat and zenithal highlighting, but that's just another thing to learn before I get started.
I have a pot of Typhus Corrosion, but I've barely used it. I should give it more of a try. I've tried the Ryza Rust and it's not for me. I'll stick with my normal orange paint. Thanks for watching!
Lead would be absolutely awful for swords. I don't think that there's any historical examples, and probably for good reason. Very informative for painting, though.
+James Nye I sometimes leave certain pieces off (like a shield that covers a large portion of the model, for example) but I usually build most if not all the model before priming and painting. However, if your system works for you, keep at it. Thanks for watching!
Switching back to your face is discombobulating. It would be better if you just stayed focus on the model. I did a video a while back testing difficult inks over a bleached bone base for Skeletons. As a kid I loved the tutorial GW did on painting skeletons using flesh wash as a base, so I gave it a go and utterly hated it. I found that one of army painter's shades worked better than anything else I tried. I just picked up some smokey and sepia wash from Vallejo, so maybe I should give those a go as well, but I liked army painter right out of the bottle as a finished model.
He recaps what we just watched. Why. I mean we just watched it. And can replay any time we want. Why not simply deliver the message concisely once. I don't know. I just don't know. But anyway.
Nice painting, but too much cutting away from the painting. It's good in your normal vids but not appropriate for a painting tutorial. Keep it focussed on the miniature and the painting to make the next vid even better. I'm not really bitching, just trying to help :)
+Jen Yates This is one of my first painting tutorials (besides the Sam tutorials where I'm behind the camera) and I'm still getting the hang of it. Many of the shots back to me are to cover the mini not being in the shot or to make jump cuts more seemless. I'm still working on it. Frankly, I get really bored when watching tutorials with only one long camera angle. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions if you want a more heavily edited format I'd recommend GW's tutorials, over on warhammer TV. although they are adverts (in part) the format is really nice and digestable.
+Chris Jacobi Oh yeah, the hairdryer is invaluable in minis painting. Extra pro tip: buy a used one at a rummage sale or second hand shop, otherwise your wife will be unhappy that you keep stealing hers. Thanks for watching!
![“อาร์ต พศุตม์” เกือบเอี่ยวทุกคดีดัง เอ๊ะไว้ก่อน ไม่มีอะไรได้มาง่ายๆ | แฉ 16 ต.ค. 67 [2/3] | GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0Gx-0-kUBv8/mqdefault.jpg)
I love how you explain everything you show us here. I'm a new painter and have been watching quite some videos and I hear about techniques all new to me and most painters skip over them and leave me confused. Thank you for this one! My skeleton warriors will be fine now 😊
I've never heard "games workshop" and "relatively cheap" in the same sentence without some variation of "is not" in between them.
Stargate404 unfortunately none of us did.
They are bad ass skeletons though :d
@@afsmopomsafafo meh
Cheap means badly made while inexpensive means it isn't expensive. So it does fit GW brushes pretty well :)
Loving your channel mate, especially your sense of humour.
I'm glad you like it. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I'm developing a miniature area in my boardgame shop in Brussels this year, and your videos help me a lot learning painting and understanding better the hobby, so thanks ;-)
+Angelo Curatolo Excellent! I'm glad to hear you're expanding into miniatures and I'm glad my videos are helping. Thanks for watching!
Gotta say, subscribing to this channel was a brilliant idea. Such consistently good content. Cheers!
+OttomanScribe I'm trying to crank out new videos every Friday. Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching!
Revisting this for painting my own skeleton horde. Ty for this Uncle Atom!
Love the tutorial Adam! The technique you are referring to is called over brushing. Kind of like a heavy drybrush, but avoiding certain areas of the miniature.
+aaron bowman Excellent! I'll make sure to start calling it that in the future. Thanks for watching!
Well done! This is essentially how I painted skeletons about 25 years ago. Though mine were a bit more "recently raised" from a European climate so were a bit darker with less even highlighting, but did have lighter teeth for contrast. The armour was darker and more rusted with any bronze having heavier patina. Any leather or cloth had a dark brown (muddy) effect. Haven't thought of these in years! Thanks for reminding of them - fun figures, the old RalParthas and such. :-)
+georgedebleu That's one of the main reasons I love painting miniatures: I love thinking about the mini's story while I'm painting them, and that story drives how I paint them. Thanks for watching!
I love how you said the texture paint
Awesome tutorial, you have the right voice for it too, as weird as that sounds lol. Bob Ross-esque, love it!
+Marcus Bilky I do get comments on my voice, and it's not the first time I've been called Bob Ross. Thanks for the compliment, and thanks for watching!
Ten minutes worth of information wrapped up in a nice tidy thirty minute package.
I do a very similar thing with my skeletons, except i undercoat everything, i.e. paint all the cloth, metal, glowing eyes and rust and whatnot, and then finish with a dark brown was (agrax earthshade usually) it works phenominally when you have 4 units of 20 skellies to do up, gets a really dark and gritty sort of look. personally reminds me of army of darkness, in the best of ways! Keep on being awesome!
in fact, if you prime with white, and paint on a layer paint (ushabti bone is what i used, the blend of the wash works fantastically, and you don't need a drybrush (saving a bit of time, but admittedly not much. over 80 models though..)
Thanks, I will. Thanks for watching!
Very nice tutorial, and quite entertaining, as well. Good job. Looking forward to your next one.
+GentlemenAtPlay That's very gentlemanly of you to say. Thanks for watching!
Like the idea for this series a lot - about to start my skeleton horde and this is perfect. If you want to do more of these videos, maybe mounting the close camera of your left side so you aren't putting your dominant hand in front of it might help a bit. I agree though, I usually have a model closer to my face when I'm painting.
I did recently switch the second camera to the left side (if you notice in the videos I've been doing with Sam) and it has certainly helped. Thanks for watching!
I've been considering trying out Age of Sigmar after I get my Necron army sorted out. This helps a ton since I was wanting to go for masses of skeletons.
I do love me some skeletons. Thanks for watching!
This honestly gave me an idea for a side quest. In a certain area there will be Skeleton encounters with good weapons in perfect condition. If the party defeats them and moves on that's fine, but if they try to investigate their will be some sort of mystery behind it like a secret weapon stache, or a group of necromancers making a well armed army ready to take over a town, etc..
Another stormin' vid, warts an' all! It obviously wasn't an easy one to do, so congrats on sticking with it - must've taken a lot of time and editing, but very impressed to see you physically applying paint stuffs - so many other vids skip this important bit! Some really informative commentary about colours and design / paint choices as well - you are truly a fountain of knowledge and an inspiration to me... Now all I need to do is get brave, stop procrastinating and get on with it... Eeek!
Hi! I have areally stupid question... Can I play the "old warhammer" with the "Start Collecting! Skeleton Horde" set, or it's Age of sigmar only?
+999slawter I'm pretty sure there's no reason you couldn't. The next Start Collecting boxes come with round bases, but I'm sure you could find older square bases online somewhere. Thanks for watching!
It would certainly be entertaining to see a copper shield and lead sword in action :3 great tutorial sir, thanks (:
Well, they're skeletons... they're not know for their brains. Thanks for watching!
At 21 minutes you recommend alcohol as a filter. You can also add a drop of washing up liquid to the water, which will break the water tension and make it apply a little smoother.
+Broken Colony I've had liquid soap work great for making a wash (where I want the pigment to go to the recesses and I want the fluid to break and not settle on the flat areas) but I've never had any luck using it in a filter, where I want the pigment to collect in the recesses and ALSO leave a thin layer in the flat areas. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Really enjoyed watching this! Great guide. Thank you.
I hope it helps grow your skeleton army. Thanks for watching!
"Overbrush" was the term you were looking for at the drybrush bit... heavier than a dry brush, but not quite clean strokes...
+Hey You Got it, thanks! And thanks for watching!
Obviously brushes are a personal preference, but I find the citadel brushes to be cheap nor crappy. But then again, they're not very expensive and I find you get great quality for your money with them.
+Floris Roetert I like 'em, but I have a lot of painter friends who can't stand them. Thanks for watching!
Been watching your video's for quite a while now, while I consider myself a pretty good painter I have been waiting for your tutorials :D - This one's great cause I'm a pretty slow painter (Paint for hobby rather than gaming) but I've just recently received 3 armies to paint, one of them undead, so it's pretty relevant and I think I can now hammer out the skeletons pretty fast :D - Keep them coming!! and Thanks!
Oh also, with the Nihilakh Oxide, Try putting it on thicker like a wash, but then rubbing it off with your finger after a few seconds gives a really awesome effect - Try it on something cheap and nasty first tho ;)
+Carl Mayne I'll totally try that on some test models or something, because I have all these Putrid Blightkings which I actually primed this evening. I'd love to use this stuff to a cool effect on their armor and weapons. Thanks for watching!
I feel for your spillage. Recently I spilled half of my Fuegan Orange all over my painting station. That's the problem with pots...
I prefer droppers to pots... except for washes. I like being able to dip my brush into a pot of wash. Thanks for watching!
If you ever buy the start to paint sets that come in box's save the plastic insert that comes with them an stick in your washes.
Renewed interest in miniatures after a 20-25 year hiatus. If you are doing batches/multiples, is it best to use multiple floating pill cases or attach a batch of miniatures to one stand? The latter seems difficult for rotation... Thanks, and nice work!
If I'm doing batches of models that need to look the same these days, I always attach to paint sticks. Thanks for watching!
Wow! Thanks for this tutorial, it was great! I usually paint/sculpt on Lego minifigures, just because they're a fairly great base, but I think these techniques could help me out on my customs (because that's what we Lego-painters call them). Just question, could I reach the estimate quality of Citadel washes/shades by adding some water and/or alcohol to Apple Barrel paints?
+Gold Tutorials Probably not. The problem with just trying to make washes by watering down paint is that it looks great until just before the moment that it dried. Then, the surface tension sucks a bunch of the pigment up out of the crevices and makes these "tide marks' on the flat surfaces. You need to add something to the mix to make a good wash. Some people use Future Floor Polish, some people use detergent... do a Google search for 'making a miniatures wash' and you'll find a bunch of good resources. Thanks for watching!
painted 10 skeletons with your inspiration today! thanks man!
+Kevin Deleon Excellent! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
random question: I've got some citadel paints that are old but of course always kept tightly sealed etc. - BUT , I'm noticing tiny specks of what could only be paint itself (reason why paint cans are shaken on a machine and why you shake a closed pot to "stir" it) - I suppose my query best worded would be : how common is this annoyance and should I try some more "aggressive shaking" or even stirring?
Stirring isn't bad. I do it with toothpicks from time to time. Thanks for watching!
Hey,
Are the skeleton warriors on a 32mm or 25mm round base?
+Broadside15 Mine are on 25mm bases. I prefer them for most smaller models. Thanks for watching!
Have you tried any of the drybrushing paint from GW? I bought a marine starter pa I that came with sample paint and the silver was one of them. Interesting sponge-like material.
I haven't. I should give those a try. Thanks for watching!
liked the video. i'm an amatuer for this kind of hobby . just bought skeleton horde just like yours.i primed them with gray.can i use zadri dust for the base coat of the skeleton?
idk whether you will still answer on this years old vid, but I am currently trying to paint skelletons and I am a new painter. I was just wondering whether to put a highling white primer from above onto the bone primer makes any sense. What do u think?
You certainly could. It adds an extra step, and if you have a lot of skeletons to paint, it’ll add a bit of extra time, but otherwise it’d probably look good. Thanks for watching!
So I use a similar, but slightly shorter process by changing the order of my steps. I use a light grey primer instead of the sand/khaki color to bring lightness to the party first. Then I do a dry brush over the entire thing with the khaki but I do it in a bottom-up style to add darkness and brown to the under sides. Then I go do the bone color going top-down. After that I do the black parts, but also include the eye sockets. Then metalics and any other base colors I need to do, followed the the washes which I use a black wash for everything, and a brown wash for the bones or anything bronze like. Finally I add rust by stippling on a tiny amount of black over the steel and some orange and brown in increasing amounts in that order. When that's all done I just do highlights with the bleached bone or ivory, cut in the eyes (making sure the black there is only in the hole and not around it) and possibly touch up the metalics to reduce the rust. I can do a batch of skeletons in that way in about 2 hours including dry time.
Is that a GW mini ? I love that mini great pose and simple not a lot of clutter detail.
Ever thought of making a mini of yourself ? I'd like to have a mini of Atom pulling his shirt up to reveal nurgly mouths and eyes. It would need a mount , perhaps that cat. No, the cat should sit on one shoulder and hold a pike. Seriously though thanks for vid and keep it up , I love this one as I too love skeletons since I saw the Ray Harryhausen stop-motion animated ones in movies as a kid. Great techniques and video in general -- Thanks again.
It would be fun to have someone sculpt a model of me. Maybe not the way you described it completely, but still cool. Thanks for watching!
I gave up on Krylon cans when 5 of them in a row just shot huge blots of paint everywhere. I tried all tricks online: heat up can, shake for 1 minute, spray before target and after; always keep moving - did not matter. Airbrushing bases saved my miniatures career.
Great Vid! Good tip on the hairdryer! It never came up that this could work. Keep up the good work and I am looking out for your next tutorial ;)
Adam you have to get good brushes. Buy a windsor newton 7 series size 1. It will cost less than one artificer GW brush and it will last a lifetime, and you only really need that one brush for everything. It's cheaper and much better.
Except drybrushing
Maybe once I wear out the back stock of GW brushes I have in my case. Thanks for watching!
na, just get the cheap pack from Micheals where you get like 20 brushes for a few bucks.
The brush doesn't last too long but its so cheap you just grab a new one.
I've spilled 2 pots of Carroburg Crimson on my desk in the last month, I know the feel
It feels bad. Thanks for watching!
Were you using the vallejo bone white, similar bleached bone and ushabti bone?
I've heard other painters refer to the wet dry brush you did over the metal parts as a flat brushing
+Delicate Hmm. Could be, I suppose. I'll have to do some research. Thanks for watching!
Would you, in some cases, paint before putting on the shields?
I've never understood the point of simulating light hitting the model from above. If you can see the model there must and will be actual light hitting it, creating that effect naturally. So what's the point?
Daniel Beam I'm pretty sure it's to make the effect more noticeable from a distance, but I'm not exactly sure. I might paint a model with that technique and one without and compare them. Good question!
It helps accentuate the lighting effect from a distance on such a small model. On much bigger models, you do it much more subtly. Thanks for watching!
The effect of light and shadows become less obvious and simply put "wrong" on a miniature compared to a regular/full sized human since the light is the same but the object its hitting much smaller.
Love your style, Adam! I thought the video was great.
+MisterMannIndy Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Love your humor, new sub!
*"A very heavy wet dry-brush..."*
---
*"Skeletons are not known for their cleanliness..."*
---
*"Skeletons rarely kinda hang around by themselves... They're not known to be loners..."*
And it is these tidbits of wealthy knowledge, ladies and gentlemen, that keep me 'tuned in' to the videos on this (my favorite hobby) channel--
Just curious, though, on how you came to know so much about the cultural/social interaction and hygienic habits of the "flesh impaired. "
Did you do the "Jane Goodall" thing and live with them a while, or what?
🖒💀
random : thanks for convincing me to get an airbrush asap - from your chan and others I've been watching , especially since I've been watching lotta Dreadfleet and everyone uses airbrushes - definitely on my list to Santa or whatever.
Yeah, airbrush is really great, especially if you live somewhere (like I do) where priming with a rattle can outside is un-doable for many months of the year. Thanks for watching!
Cool I enjoyed this video. Keep them coming! It looked like the final photo was a bit overexposed.
Great tutorial
Thanks, I've been enjoying painting more skeletons. Thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks!!
I moved on from tomb kings.... now I use VC and TK and im trying your way of painting :) nice video
Good luck with it. Thanks for watching!
sad that they dont support tomb kings anymore
do you water down washes?
What if u r painting a mini that has a larger base. Like a space marine terminator, what would i use
*to hold onto
+Carter Millar For bigger miniatures, I generally use pill bottles. I've also seen people use small blocks of wood. The paint sticks would great for high numbers of smaller minis, thiough. Thanks for watching!
It's a shame I didn't have this tutorial before painting my 60 skeleton warriors ahah! Nice one! :)
+zezorc Oh and the "patine" you're talking about is called "vert-de-gris" isn't it?
+zezorc From Wikipedia: "Patina is a thin layer that variously forms (a small amount of surface rust, without pitting) on the surface of stone; on copper, bronze and similar metals (such as any ferrous metals, i.e. steels and irons) (tarnish produced by oxidation (rust) or other chemical processes); on wooden furniture (sheen produced by age, wear, and polishing); or any such acquired change of a surface through age and exposure. Patinas can provide a protective covering to materials that would otherwise be damaged by corrosion or weathering. They may also be aesthetically appealing, in otherwords: fly."
I added that last bit, it's from one of my favorite songs. Anyway, verdigris is a specific type of patina that is green (hence the 'verdi' part, I think) and is on copper and bronze stuff, so we're both right! Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions My bad, English is not my native language :)
+zezorc No problem, English IS my native language and I still thought I might have been using the wrong word. Now we both learned something! Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions Hey by the way, are you planning on doing the same for GW's ghouls? I have dozens of them still only primed and I have absolutely no idea how I'm supposed to paint these lovely creatures :)
What do you mean texture models as step 1?
What wash do he used for the Shield?
Even the bit about using a hair-dryer - thanks - I would have considered it then thought "no, that's too easy"
Where can I buy these skeleton models?
+Caleb Titus I'm pretty sure these are the models I used: www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Vampire-Counts-Skeleton-Warriors I had the box in my basement for a long time, but I'm pretty sure they're the same set. Thanks for watching!
Hey, Atom! A wet drybrush is an Overbrush. 😉
Nice fingers you have!
Thanks. I just try to keep my nails clipped. Thanks for watching!
Amazing im going to try this on my new skeleton horde set cheers xD
I'm about to start doing it to my skeleton horde, too. Thanks for watching!
Almost decided to create deathrattle band, will get back here many times more :P
Uncle Atom, why not dry brush before you base coat the metallics in black? Saves you having to avoid the metal bits.
+Mikey R Honestly, that's a good point, and I do that now when I do skeletons (last ones were a few months ago). Good catch. Thanks for watching!
Tabletop Minions, I always enjoy your videos. I've got around 80 Imperial Guardsmen to assemble and paint, and to be honest it's so daunting, I haven't started. I've even got a new airbrush for base coat and zenithal highlighting, but that's just another thing to learn before I get started.
my go-to for rusty/dirty steel is typhus corrosion then ryza rust :)
I have a pot of Typhus Corrosion, but I've barely used it. I should give it more of a try. I've tried the Ryza Rust and it's not for me. I'll stick with my normal orange paint. Thanks for watching!
Tabletop Minions i find it looks better if you wipe most of it off with a finger - it is the only orange i own though :P
How often does anyone spend looking at a mini 4" away from their face though. Maybe a few seconds? Better if they look good on the table.
Different strokes. Thanks for watching.
Indeed, and a lot more unnecessary ones for some people ;) Love the content.
I DO like swarms of things.
I like swarms of skeletons, certainly. Thanks for watching!
Lead would be absolutely awful for swords. I don't think that there's any historical examples, and probably for good reason.
Very informative for painting, though.
Am I the only person that paints there miniatures piece by piece before assembling them? am I doing it wrong?
+James Nye I sometimes leave certain pieces off (like a shield that covers a large portion of the model, for example) but I usually build most if not all the model before priming and painting. However, if your system works for you, keep at it. Thanks for watching!
Switching back to your face is discombobulating. It would be better if you just stayed focus on the model.
I did a video a while back testing difficult inks over a bleached bone base for Skeletons. As a kid I loved the tutorial GW did on painting skeletons using flesh wash as a base, so I gave it a go and utterly hated it. I found that one of army painter's shades worked better than anything else I tried. I just picked up some smokey and sepia wash from Vallejo, so maybe I should give those a go as well, but I liked army painter right out of the bottle as a finished model.
He recaps what we just watched. Why. I mean we just watched it. And can replay any time we want. Why not simply deliver the message concisely once. I don't know. I just don't know. But anyway.
Nice painting, but too much cutting away from the painting. It's good in your normal vids but not appropriate for a painting tutorial. Keep it focussed on the miniature and the painting to make the next vid even better. I'm not really bitching, just trying to help :)
+Jen Yates This is one of my first painting tutorials (besides the Sam tutorials where I'm behind the camera) and I'm still getting the hang of it. Many of the shots back to me are to cover the mini not being in the shot or to make jump cuts more seemless. I'm still working on it. Frankly, I get really bored when watching tutorials with only one long camera angle. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions if you want a more heavily edited format I'd recommend GW's tutorials, over on warhammer TV.
although they are adverts (in part) the format is really nice and digestable.
I don't know why but the way he speaks he reminds me of Alton Brown.
I'll take that as a compliment. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions for sure! I love Alton! Do you make your own wash?
Only for a metal patina, like in my 'How to Paint a Bronze Statue' video. Thanks for watching!
U said to highlight the top of the head as skeletons walk around in the sun, u think they’d get a skele tan?🤪🤷♂️🙈🙈
What pills are in your bottles? What meds are you on?
+Matt Raska I was diagnosed with Type 2 Diabetes about 10 years ago, so I end up taking a certain amount of pills.
Asthma here. I have a doctor appointment today.
So annoying to try to watch this guy.
Great Vid! Good tip on the hairdryer! It never came up that this could work. Keep up the good work and I am looking out for your next tutorial ;)
+Chris Jacobi Oh yeah, the hairdryer is invaluable in minis painting. Extra pro tip: buy a used one at a rummage sale or second hand shop, otherwise your wife will be unhappy that you keep stealing hers. Thanks for watching!