Guerlain Les Extraits Signature perfume review on Persolaise Love At First Scent episode 410
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[Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands*, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.]
Episode 410 of Love At First Scent.
This was a TH-cam Live broadcast streamed on Sunday 19th November 2023. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
In this episode, I reviewed the new Guerlain Les Extraits Signature (part of L'Art & La Matiere) which include:
Vanille Planifolia 21
Bergamote Fantastico 11
Tonka Sarrapia 75
Jasmin Grandiflorum 30
Rose Centifolia 1
Iris Pallida 6
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[* Since November 2020, I have been commissioned by Amouage to complete various projects, some of which have had a bearing on the scents released by the brand from 2021 onwards. At the time of writing this note, my intention is to continue mentioning and reviewing all Amouage scents released up to the end of 2020, except in posts/articles where perfumes from several brands are included and presented as part of a selection/collection.]
Copyright 2023 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved.
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I was only able to get a sample of the Vanille Planifolia and just love it! It is very unique to my nose, nothing that I have tried before. We know that we have an artistic creation when different people are differently inspired by it. There are so many parfume houses that can do "complex" fragrances these days, but simplicity well done is another matter.
Very true.
Thanks for watching.
But that's exactly why they are beautiful, dear mr. Persolaise. They do smell like nature, they are elegant and not overdone. We humans tend to overdo everything to the point of being excessive and annoying.
The price is the obvious con though.
Thanks very much for watching. We may have to agree to disagree on these.
I caught the very end of this live stream, but just rewatched the recording. Thank you for your thoughtful analysis and remarks. Your comments had me thinking about a possible idea for a future list - maybe? I'd love to hear your thoughts about a few recommendations of fragrances that you feel represent a solid (or exceptional) value. Fragrances that are well-crafted in terms of their artistry, composition and creativity -- but balanced by a reasonable price-point. I know it would be tricky, since prices tend to fluctuate and the list would be somewhat subjective, but I think it would be wonderful to hear your thoughts about a few fragrances that stand out in your mind as a good value. As always, thank you for sharing your knowledge and insights!
Thanks very much for the excellent idea.
Yesss
The luxury brand marketing strategy of convincing people to spend more and more for less and less is an interesting cultural experiment. Especially selling minimalism from such a baroque brand.
Very true.
I actually love simplistic scents that revolve around a single material, since those are difficult to convey all the aspects of said material in an authentic and balanced way.
I think these perfumes should be judge based on their quality and how well made they are. I don't mind the brand taking some creative liberty and change their style. But then again, these scents will have to be the end game to justify their price point.
Fair points - thank you.
Awesome video! I adore this entire collection. Whilst yes they focus on a specific ingredient, I personally don't find them one dimensional at all. Love the rose, tonka, jasmin and even the bergamot surprisingly! 😍😍😍
Good to know. Thanks very much for watching.
Bergamot is my most favorite. It is very realistic and refreshing. It is the most long lasting bergamot that stays fresh and juicy in my collection.
I’m glad you like it.
Many thanks for watching.
I agree so much. Extrait versions of the existing “exclusive” fragrances would have been far more intriguing and appropriate of the extrait label.
Or completely new extraits.
Many thanks for watching.
I tried Guerlinade in Brussels, 2002. Wildly expensive (even tax free!) and it was simply divine - lily of the valley seemed to be the strongest of the elements.
I never got a chance to smell it.
Thanks very much for watching.
I bought the Guerlinade 'special' in Schipol airport in the late 90s, and it was utterly lovely, But I think it's not the genuine article, ie the real Guerlain base is something else. I look at the prices of that special and think perhaps I should warn my adult kids not to give it to a charity shop!
I confess to being highly disappointed in my favourite fragrance house. On first hearing that these extraits were on the horizon, my anticipation was palpable. I looked forward to experiencing new masterpieces of perfumery in Guerlain's inimitable style. Something akin to an Angelique Noire on steroids if you will. What they were thinking in creating these single-note expressions is bewildering to contemplate, Especially at these draconian prices. Clearly the proof will be in the pudding,, but my level of excitement has been attenuated dramatically. This reeks far more of cynical rapacious commercialism than art for art's sake.
They're not my favourite releases either.
Thanks for watching.
As with so many Guerlain's especially extriats and limited / special editions, these aren't supposed to be opened never mind worn.... they're for the avid fans / bottle collectors, and just meant to look pretty and special in a cabinet for the next 30, 40, 50 years with their seal intact!.... hence the reason there's so many very old perfumes that are still around in sealed as new condition, because they are thought of as collector items and too special to be worn... and Guerlain are the top of the list in that respect.
That's another way of looking at it.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your very useful review. I have been very curious about these releases. I hoped "Néroli Outrenoir" was among the reviews because I love the smell of orange flower, but whatever it might smell like, I know I wouldn't be willing to pay for it. I 'read' from your review these extraits come across as typically one dimensional scents, like all perfumes these days,- which I find incredibly boring, almost insulting to the senses. A one dimensional structure of the scent makes the pricerange even more outrageous. I have several bottles of pure perfume extraits bought in Egypt, such as amber, frankencence, lotus, jasmine and others and I would be very disappointed to buy a expensive Guerlain and discover it mainly contained Jasmine! Like you so perfectly expressed "Shalimar is more than vanilla .." And the way L'heure Bleue and Nahema is so much more than just a perfume. These perfume masterpieces go beyond time! As a perfume geek I still keep sniffing my way through present releases though 😊
I think the likes of you and I will be happier with the older extraits.
Thanks very much for watching.
I now just listen because you’re a pleasure to listen to, not because I’m going to try the particular perfumes as they’re far too expensive now. I can’t think of another hobby where I’ve been priced out in so short a time. But enough bellyaching from me. Thanks again.
This is very kind, thank you. I'm sure I'll find something more affordable to review very soon.
@@Persolaise I wasn’t bemoaning any trend on your channel, just sighing over skyrocketing prices in general.
Adorem is affordable and absolutely fascinating. Great recommendation.
@@Sliceisnice850 Don't worry, I understood what you meant.
I have tried only 2 on skin (Iris and Bergamotte) and smelt the bottles of the Jasmine and the Rose. And from the on skin experience I can say they definitely belong into the Arts et Matières range despite the marketing of them being Guerlinade materials. They come across quite modern smelling and both bases had a synthetic dry down that reminded of typical modern niche perfumery. So for people who find all that appealing these perfumes may be interesting. I hoped the Guerlinade part would have inspired the perfumers to create more classical smelling Guerlain extraits.
I have to say one thing about the bergamotte though. It is built on a base which is the Habit Rouge dna, clearly. And did it not have that synthetic Arts et Matière aspect in it it could be very nice. On the other hand, personally, I would still go and buy Habit Rouge.
I will certainly try more of them but I doubt I will want to own any.
Long live Jicky and L'Heure Bleue! (and whichever other classic of your choice)
Thanks for this. It seems we’re meant to layer them with the existing Art & Matiere scents. I’m not sure I want to pay £500 for a layering perfume.
@@Persolaise if I ever wanted to tweak a formula (because I knew better than the perfumer????) I would go for some pure absolue. Spitting cheap the stuff, as it can be bought in 1ml quantity.
Missed the live stream, damn. But sounds as if there's not much to miss with these 'extraits'. The soaring prices are beginning to disenchant me after decades of perfume fascination. Hardly anyone is making complex, challenging scents that develop and stay for hours. Scent after scent is a short-lived, simplistic crowd-pleaser, even - and perhaps especially - 'niche' scents sold at a premium. Worldwide, people are struggling with cost-of-living problems, so these super-expensive perfumes can only be aimed at a narrow market of people with too much money and not enough discernment. Is that commercially sustainable in the long run? What exactly is the business model?
I would never pay £500.00 for a bottle of perfume ever. I have a collection of vintage perfumes that I love as the newer versions smell nothing like the older ones. I have even dabbled in making my own from quality essential oils & loving them.
We're certainly living in interesting times, as far as these crazy-expensive releases go.
Why not just do a rerelease of the "Guerlinade"? We'd all be better off for it! I already knew before I smelled them that their jasmine would be left dead and buried by A La Nuit, the iris would have been flung from the cliffs by Iris Silver Mist etc etc etc... why Guerlain insists on putting up a fight with houses who already have mastered the solinote format is beyond me. To continue with the Lutens comparisons, I suspect this new Guerlain line will go the way the Section d'Or did - quietly retired as the brand learns they can only ask for so much before people start running for the hills - it's a phase all children go through as they learn to test the limits of tolerance of the adult figures around them. One would have thought such a phase would be long behind a house as old and venerable as this, however.
I'll certainly be interested to see how long these stick around.
Thanks for watching.
To continue the SL reference, it is also a copy of the Bois series: Bois et Fruit, etc. that took Feminite du Bois and exalted one of the 4 main accords.
@@LiaAndrews Good point!
0:50 it's even ;)
Ha!
I sniffed all 6, being a rose-y lady, rose is number 1 for me, and I liked the rest 5 ones as well. And the price in Switzerland is 710CHF, so guys in Europe are luckier.
Always a silver lining...
Thanks for watching.
I wonder if these are more marketing team decisions based on ‘data’. Still, very curious to find these and smell them so it does seem to be working. But then again - it’s Guerlain - one naturally tends to be intrigued when one of these legendary houses release something new. Thank you for sharing your thoughts. :) 🙏
Yes, I'm always curious to know what leads to the big houses creating pieces such as these.
Very interesting video showing that less is more in term on result & prices…but Guerlai. Are definitely not the first ones to go for this « weird focus ingredient concept »so we need then to talk about Dior élixir précieux 3 ml/£295 (oud and jasmine were good) and amouage extract 12ml for £410 (likes the incense one) and I don’t remember see a lot of people running to buy them so …still don’t get it ..maybe a issue with the creation ideas and take a simple and pricey step ….who knows ???
I get your point, but the Dior and Amouage products you mention are rather different. They’re oil-based compositions. These are ‘traditional’ extraits, in the sense that they contain a perfume ‘juice’ diluted in alcohol.
I think Guerlain recognizes the masses and perfumistas are willing to at the very least respect the price tag on something that is called an extrait. For so many of us, there is already this notion that the price of a perfume reflects the quality of materials and use of precious naturals. So a person at the Guerlain counter will hold up a bottle of for one of these extraits and think “this must contain a LOT of rare oils and resins! It’s a very special, exclusive, and classy elixir!” without suspicion.
Also the market is demanding more and more that fresh style perfumes have at least moderate longevity, projection and sillage. To hear that Guerlain has a bergamot perfume at 30% extrait concentration, many will be willing to spend that money for a bergamot that will hopefully linger on through the day.
Thanks very much indeed for your comment.
It'll be fascinating to see how well these sell.
I suppose most people would have a hard time these days with that sort of a price tag when we are forced to contribute to the ever fattening bonuses of our bank, utility, oil and food company chiefs. I have experimented with absolutes that cost a tiny fraction of the price. Just one dab of say jasmine, rose, orris/iris or whatever else you choose will last a whole day. Or you could source a high quality natural attar which would work equally well and it would still be a fraction of the price.
That certainly sounds like a lovely scent ritual.
Thanks for watching.
Habe letzte Woche alle probiert und mich entschieden für rose centifolia. Ich mag die rose.....und extrait dauert wirklich zwei Tage nur zwei Spritzer....Preis ist hoch aber wenn du überlegst 550 Euro für 50 ml ist 110 Euro für 10 ml.....das ist super Preis für ein extrait......manche andere Anbieter sind viel teurer.....Liebe Grüße aus Deutschland....❤😊
I take your point, but personally, I didn't find these extraits sufficiently interesting to consider parting with such sums. However, I know many people have enjoyed wearing them.
Thanks for watching.
@@Persolaise ❤
Unfortunately I cannot comment in detail on these extraits as I have insider information that I am not at liberty to disclose, but I will point out that the regular L'Art range much like Le Labo, does not always put into focus the material on the label... And in that vein, you're not getting your money's worth with these extraits nor something that really does justice to even what's on the label.
Thanks very much for watching.
Not even through a TH-cam comment? Hard to imagine anyone would monitor you to that extent.
I’ve only tried the Iris, the opening was stunning but after that I got an endless almond hand lotion musk that droned on and on. Hugely disappointing.
Yes, it is very musky at the end.
I certainly don’t mind a bit of super geekiness!
Good to know, thank you.
The novelty of it all, will be discontinued sometime soon!
That's very possible.
They're not for me but they don't have to be. Not everything every perfume house makes has to be for my taste.
That's very true.
Thanks for watching.
My reaction when I heard the price of these perfumes was: I need a “I don’t want it" check mark/ custom shelf in my Fragrantica profile 🥴
Ha! That would be useful.
Too expensive for me.
Thanks for watching.
Ugh Guerlain 😔 what a let down.
I expect some people will buy them.