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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- www.mrpete222.com/
In this 2 part video, tubalcain makes a crank adapter for the BRIDGEPORT MILL. This is a lazy man's way of moving the knee up and down under power.
Check out my 1400 other shop videos!
If you wish to have plans for this project, simply email my friend toly. He makes beautiful CAD drawings. He will send them to you by return email and you can print them out on your computer. tolydukhovny@gmail.com
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![fellow fellow - PROUD feat. INK WARUNTORN [STRING QUARTET]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BQrVkMPTdHE/mqdefault.jpg)
Lol at the ladybug inspecting your usual impeccable work!
Inspector had to pay the ultimate price for talking smack
For me Pete it was a pure pleasure viewing situation because I'm not a machinist. I enjoyed it thoroughly like all your other videos! I really appreciate you helping me understand what was a mystery for so many years. Your students I'm sure had no idea what an opportunity they had by having such a knowledgeable teacher. Thanks as always.
While working my way through your video library from the beginning, (currently at Feb 2010) the first of this series showed up as “Up Next” in my list of suggested videos. I was so intrigued I fought off my OCD urges to continue in chronological order, and I watched these videos. I had actually modeled one of these adapters in SolidWorks 1-1/2 years ago, but never got around to making it because I was concerned the drill wouldn’t have enough torque to raise the knee. And in order to measure the torque needed I would have had to make an adapter, so I kept putting off the project.
I now have a renewed desire to make this part, but would like to share some info if anyone else is planning on making one as well. First, the .06 offset was the cutter comp for your 1/8” diameter end mill. To save on rotary table moves, (I think you had 27) try this (reduces it to 18 moves). Starting with the rotary table on Zero, rough mill each slot with a 5/32 end mill (9 slots at 40° increments). Offset the “X” axis by half the diameter of your end mill (.078” for a 5/32 end mill). Start with the rotary table on 10° & mill all the way across the part & return. Repeat this 9 times at 40° increments. Going all the way across the part will mill a single side of 2 slots with each rotation of the rotary table (Don’t use this method when roughing because directly across from the center of each slot is a boss). Since the small end of the slot is about .164, using a 5/32 end mill will eliminate the tool change & give you a little stiffer end mill than using an 1/8”. If you don’t care about the finish you can forget the roughing operation and cut it down to 9 rotary table moves.
On a side note concerning fighting that chuck key when the chuck was mounted on the rotary table. If you’re fortunate enough that your chuck uses either a 3/8” or 1/2” square drive, use a ratchet with an extension or a speed wrench. Otherwise, take that 1/2” hex stock you had left over and mill the appropriate square on the end so then you can drive it with a ratchet or speed wrench. Thanks for all the great videos Mr. Pete. I look forward to working my way through your entire library.
Hello Mr. Pete I have been watching your vids for some time now and I enjoy them. I'm a 40 year man and am teaching a young man who is mostly self taught. I am using this project to get him familiar with the dividing head / rotary table and the needed math to make the Crank Adapter both he and I are having a good time with this one. Thanks for making this I find it helpful to teach him the basics and also put a new tool in his box.
Bruce Webb Thanks for watching-glad you like the videos. You are doing a good thing helping that young man
Fantastic video. Thank you for taking the time to produce it. I can see that you would have been a fantastic teacher as you have a real passion for it.
Thank you Mr.Pete! I've wanted to build one of these for my mill for a long time but didn't know how. Now thanks to you I know. Very good video series.
Thanks again
I loved the appearance of the Lady Bug on the bolt at the beginning!
Did it just like you said, and it fit beautifully. I only broke one 1/8 milling cutter, as they mill by snatch and grab increments. Thanks again for an informative video. The 1/8 cutter sure used up a lot of pucker factor.
I sure do enjoy your videos. I get a lot out of them. Thanks for doing what you do, and please keep them coming.
Just wanted you to know I really appreciate your videos, so few older guys are willing to share their knowledge with the younger guys, My grandpa was an electric vehicle mechanic at Gates rubber co for 22 years and coulda gave 2 sharts about the rest of the grand kids but for some reason had the patience to teach me everything he Knew, I love videos like this, Keep em up. share your knowledge with the world
Jason Windecker Thanks for watching. You were lucky, my 2 gramps died many years before I was born.
Hi Pete
I built one of these some time ago, consulted the hand book and it explains odd/even teeth/cogs. If you take a straight edge you will see that the side of the tooth/cog is in straight line with the oppsite side of the tooth/cog 180 degrees across, so you can make a straight pass thru to cut two at once.
Rather than the hex wrench, it was simple to leave a tail on the part and turn it upside down in the chuck on the RT and cut the 3sides for the drill chuck, no need for an adaptor
Finally, years later I milled flats on the 1" part of the tool to accept a 3/4" wrench for fine adjustments while the crank turner hangs this is ala...Oxtoolco design
Enjoyed the video and this is my 2 cents, I knew that bugs days were numbered...LOL
outsidescrewball Are you sure ... He is running a odd number off teeth's. With a even number of teeth's you can run to the opposite side
outsidescrewball I thought the same thing, that he could go right across. You could easily and mathematically work out exactly how far to move on the x-axis. Move half the diameter of the cutter minus whatever you want for clearance, like 5 thousands or something. You wouldn't even need the red or blue numbers. In any case I do love to see him tackle something more complex, something you would never try teach in shop class and makes you think "how on earth would you make that!?!" just cause the challenge is enjoyable.
No they can't go across from each other! He had 40 deg increments, to go across from each other it would have to been at 180 deg, which doesn't work out with 40 deg increments.
Nice video mr Pete, still waiting for explanation of the .060 offset though. Lol
Fred Newman Looking at the thumbnail for the video it appears to confirm that you can go straight across. Remember we are not talking about the hogging out of the bulk of the material at the start, for which you can't go straight across where as you could if it was an even number. No, we are talking about when he was cutting the red and blue numbers to cut the proper angle on the teeth. Draw the pattern out accurately on some paper and you'll see. Not that it really matters, his way also works fine and I love watching all his videos but it's always good to teach other ways of doing things :)
radbot1 I think you're right. Put the cutter edge at the centerline (minus clearance as you say), Then, just cut straight across. With each pass, you cut the clockwise side of one tooth and the counterclockwise side of another tooth. The issue is how much to turn the workpiece. It turns out to be 80 degrees (360/4.5). Repeat the process a total of 9 passes and you've got 9 teeth and 9 spaces without having to re-fixture or change cutters. The 4.5 in the angle calculation is because you're cutting 2 sides with each pass (9 passes times two sides is 18 total sides, two per tooth). This should work with any odd number of teeth/cogs.
The math for the .060 offset is half the diameter of the 1/8" cutter, for a symmetrical cut.
When I finally acquire a milling machine, this will be something I make! This is a great example of the time and effort needed to build even seemingly simple parts like a crank handle adapter. As usual, I really have enjoyed watching these videos!
I've had very good luck with Bosch drills. My previous one had nickel based battery and it was 18V. This one lasted me for at least 4 years of heavy use (on a service truck). It was at least as powerful as a similar sized 120VAC drill. It came with 2 batteries, and I think that in 4 years I replaced the battery cells once in each battery. It got tired, the Jacobs chuck was worn out and the batteries were finally weak again. I left that drill in China at a jobsite.
Its replacement was another Bosch with Lithium battery. This one is smaller and lighter, but it is at least as powerful as the previous one. The battery runs as long per charge as the nickel battery; and it is just as strong. Really a night and day improvement over the old battery drills.
I tend to agree with you on the uselessness of 12-point sockets! Except for one thing.... as a Caterpillar engine service engineer, I use them for several of the special bolts on the Cat engines. For instance the head bolts on the 3500 engines, and even the small 12-point 1/4" socket for some of the fuel injector hold-down bolts. Without these it's darn near impossible to work on these engines!
davida1hiwaaynet Thanks for watching.. That good info on the batteries.
Great pair of vids Mr Pete. I made two a while ago on my CNC knee mill, but suffered the frustration of broken 1/8" end mills in the process. Great to have, and great to observe someone with more skill than me making them. Even better is the satisfaction of routinely using a practical self-made item in the shop. Keep up the generous work of sharing your knowledge and ability.
YCM30cnc THANKS
Outstanding video. Thanks Mr Pete it was a pleasure and learned something from your instructions.
Manny
By guess by gosh! That's awesome. I tell my buddies that I just have "The Eye." Mostly it is from remembering from victories and failures in the past, but I will maintain "The Eye" with them for as long as I can. I was turning something one day at work, and had just measured it, and knew I had .002" to finish. My buddy Carson came in and asked how much I had left, so I dusted my hands in a ceremonial way, and "felt" the piece. I then replied, "about .002"" He said, "No way," so I invited him to measure it. For some time he was convinced I had magic fingers. Now, he makes chips for a living in a fancy, CNC shop. No magic fingers there. Just magic machines. Thanks for the video!
superdave2112 Thanks for watching. You can't beat experience
my favorite machining tube teacher
👍
Great job on figuring out the angles.
I think you made some good troll food when you smashed, the bug ;-)
Watched your video before I attempt to re cut my spindles drive shaft from my Tos milling machine which I bought from work for scrap metal price. Thanks Mr.Pete
So I should rethink my plan of showing up at the Peterson farm next Halloween in a ladybug costume?
Min 5:00
1/8" end mill =
0.395" diameter x
speed 1750 rpm =
687 surface in per min =
57 sfm
Thank you Mr. Pete for these superb videos. (Bug humor too)
Thanks
You covered my thought about using a 1/2' Allen wrench for the hex stock. I agree about the 12 point nut rounding sockets. - That red is pretty. lol - I always like to mark the drill bit so I could keep my eyes on the work. - I love the lady bug shop assistant. - It's nice when the last cog works out even. - PETA gonna get you for that. - Thought that drill was gonna wear you out at the end. But better than cranking that far. Great milling machine work.
a very thorough and well explained project. Gives a lot of information and inspiration.
Thank you
Tubalcain, watching the great variety of your videos and the ease of your presenting skills, sometimes I forget how much of a brilliant machinist you really are. That was awesome and to die for - ask the bug.
Hi mrpete,
I just picked up some good thinking material about more complex angles, as always well explained...
You sounded like a pretty happy man after putting out the pleasure of powered operation for sooo many years.
Cheers,
Pierre
pierre beaudry THANKS
You make it look so easy. I for one would of had no idea how to even start the job let alone compleat it . Thanks for sharing !! Bill
👍
Thanks for showing us how you tackle this project in real detail.
It looks like the taper points to the center of the piece, so your .060 offset would be approximately half of the diameter of the mill you were using so the edge of the mill is approximately on the center point.
+Fred Newman
If you read the machinery handbook under cutting clutch teeth it explains that cutting an odd number of teeth that you can cut straight across...9 is an odd number
outsidescrewball Great tip, this obviously includes the 1/2 cutter offset so with only 9 indexing operations the tooth cutting job would be done as quick as possible. :-)
Did you know that at 1:40 you had a visit from your local inspector? Lol 😆
Sir, what a great video set, thanks so much for going into the theory so well and then finishing the job off with the practical machining. I will be having a crack at one myself over the weekend as feel empowered via your video. It gives me so much satisfaction when I have a crack at one of your videos on my own machinery, I really do feel a great sense of achievement. Thanks very much from down under
Thank you very much
I have been wanting to make this for a long time but it was always a mystery. Thanks for sharing how to make it. I will have a go myself.
Mr. Peterson, you are a mechanical genius. Greg.
I think that this milling could be done in 2 milling runs instead of 3 Just by starting the first run off center. This way you mill and finis 1 side. After this run you move the part the same amount to the other side And take the second run. And if you move the right distants you can still use the same bit. That you used here on the first go.
That was not the fate of the ladybug that I was expecting.
you buried that itty bitty end mill? Oh man you got balls. 20 years in the shop and I prefer to nibble with the end of the mill then take a facing pass. This might be a great job for the horizontal mill
We are plegued with those beetles here in South Georgia too. Leave yourwindow down in your truck for half an hour and they will cover the inside.
Hey MrPete,
Great 2 part series and a very handy tool for the knee!
Thanks for sharing!
Ray
Talk about luck, I am making a new crank at work, and all of the dimensions are just what I needed. Thank you! The handle had already been rewelded twice, and some one broke it again, and of course just left it on the milling table without saying anything. They are made out of cast metal, and seem to break very easily I presume.
Way back in the 1900's I produced several of these with an added hex for the table. I am guessing having a tool for 3 axis is too advanced for this channel.
Seems that the .060 offset should be .0625, which is 1/2 the diameter of the cutter. We want a radial line toolpath for the edge of the cutter, so we move edge of the cutter to the center of the table, rather than have the center of the cutter at the center of the table.
Excellent video as usual!
Great video! Thanks for sharing the cog making techniques.
perfect timing on this video - I have an old mill with NO crank whatsoever.. Need to make one of these.
I think it can be cut with nine passes all the way across. What am I missing?
Nicely done! Not sure why the smaller cutter was necessary or why the first series of cuts are necessary but really nice end result and very inspiring. This has been on my list of things to make and I think I'll go do it now. Thx for yet another great video.
Excellent video as always Mr. Pete ! thanks for sharing !!
Indeed, it's a little ! more difficult than what we usually do..... very instructive. Thanks
Robert Patoine THANKS
You could use a larger milling cutter and cut the time and effort quite a bit if you make only three lugs, which is all that is necessary for this tool,(in my opinion).
another great video thanks for the effort and time to explain the process
Hope your doing well, storms are getting bad out here.
Several people asked where the 60 thou came from and I didn't see an answer so here's my guess: I think he said it was by trial and error, but it seems the point was to get the edge of the 1/8" mill lined up with the center of the circle (that is, on the radius line so it would cut the edge of the tooth on a radial of the circle.) The radius of the mill is 1/16" or .0625 so that seems like the ideal offset, but .0600 must have been close enough. I think it only depends on the radius of the end mill and the same offset would work for any number of teeth.
Great job Mr. Pete. This was a great video series.
Awh old Tubles, I wish you weren't so old and ruthless.
Rip pretty bug
Great video. Love the ladybird beetle that photo bombed at the start. 😃
Excellent pair of video's. Very informative. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
Thanks for posting this. I need to repair the hand crank on my old Bridgeport Mill.
Pete,
You are truly a "cut above". But the MOST important part is you are also FROM "above". In this ever more "secular" world (sadly), most would not know what I mean; but I feel certain you KNOW what I mean dear brother IN Christ.
May He continue to bless you in all you do for others. I would give anything to live next door to you and spend the rest of my life learning from a true "master".
Wow!
pat dee THANK YOU so much. "This little light of mine--I'm going to let it shine-----let is shine till JESUS comes------------------.
Hi Mr Pete i bought x axis for a table top mill to use on the Z axis . So i sold the mill and the guy said keep the new power feed. Now I'm going to use it on my Bridgeport clone on the knee . I have already made the extension shaft and on the adjustment nut i need to cut the crank handle cogs and will be using your direction video to do this also like to note my first time cutting treads on a lathe . Thanks again for the help . JM
👍👍👍
Dare I say snug as a bug in a rug.
The 60 thou equates to half the cutter width, which in theory really should be 62.5, but the final fit was good anyway.
I'm thinking you could have also used the 3/16 cutter for all cuts, and not doing the 0 40 etc cuts.
Simply offset by the half width (93 thou) and do the 10, 50 etc then move 93 thou the other side and do the 350, 30 etc.
You already had a 3/16 gap at the narrow end anyway :-)
I think you could cut the tapered teeth in two cuts with the bigger bit. But it is always enjoyable to watch you making stuff.
Are there any advantages / disadvantages from milling from the inside out? Would that be climb milling if you went from outside to inside?
April 11. Mr Peterson. I just saw serious tornado damage in your part of the world and I hope all is safe and well with you.
Tom Tee We're fine, but it sure did blow & rain. Grandkids & neighsbors took to my basement. 9 year old grandson Andy was hysterical--he witnessed a tornado when he was 5 and cannot get over it. thanks.
Hi MrPete, I de-burr for a full time job, in a CNC machine shop, I used to be a pattern maker, now I de-burr.
at 1:42 - boy those lady bugs are EVERYWHERE this time of year! Even in machine shops!
cemx86 At least you don't get "stink bugs", they are nauseating. You have to drown them in oil gently and quickly so, like a skunk, they don't quirt their odor which lingers for days.
Its on its way mr p
Fantastic, I think I'll be creating one of these for our machine. I'm far, far too lazy to be cranking that knee handle! It weighs a ton!
Nice job indeed. Thanks for sharing.
Mr Pete.
Go all the way and throw a pulley, guard, and motor on it for a dedicated up/down power feed! Would love to see you come up with the ways to mount the hardware on the cast iron machine body.
Nice job Mr. Pete!
very nice job. Thanks for doing what you do.
That's a cool idea sir. Might have to try that
That was fun.
sehr gut! MrPete, another excellent job. keep going.
🤙
Very enjoyable video thanks for sharing.
Should introduce mrpete to lithium ion batteries for cordless tools.
Nice to see that I am not the only one that uses magnifiers.
Great one, timely wonder how to approach this
Thank you for watching
Love the videos! Wanted to give you a tip. You may already know it. To remove the horizontal lines in your video, switch your camera setting from "Interlace" to "Progressive" . Progressive will give you better quality, especially when movement is involved.
How do I do that??
mrpete222
What is the Make / Model of the camera? Its usually under capture settings. I can look it up and link you the info on how to change it.
lazerbaconpro Good luck! We've tried this before with no joy.
Nice work, thanks for the video.
Great video, thanks for sharing your talents.
Hi Pete
For the next adapter:
First cut at 0 degree, second cut at 20 degree with an x offset as the od off your tool
You take a cut in the middle an than two cuts with the radius of your tool one in -x and one in +x
all the best juergen
spray vinegar around widows and doors for the bugs
lol love the bug squash
lol
thanks for sharing. if everything but three lugs it would be a lovejoy coupling. may be very useful.
Great work as always!!
Awesome. cranking that knee up and down is tedious when you are constantly changing setups
I'm using this method to make a drive dog clutch for my lathe
👍
very nice
After what happened to that bug, I think I wiil just sit up here on the rafters, thanks!
Another very interesting video. Now the one problem I saw was you smashing that beetle. Not that I cared about his demise, but those things stick so bad when they are smashed. Perhaps the scent of oil from the milling machine hids some of that stink.
Great video. That was very interesting. I am sure you had a great time figuring out the way to cut the angles. I wonder what is your favorite lathe among the many you have? Thanks for the video.
Dear sir.
A nice product, as always
👍👍, great project , oh no beetle abuse😁
Nice, this has been on my mind for years however my only drawback is the drill. With
a four cylinder motor never mind a V8 or a 6, I can make about 5 turns with two hands,
and gotta sit down. Judging by my torque, I'm going to need one big drill ! LOL
sam
Thanks for the video.
Darn, was waiting for how you came up with the 60 thou to get angle, and by guess by gosh does not compute.
I was wondering how you were going to do this. I had figured a way that used purely degrees based on cuter diameter...but always was left with odd decimal degrees...but not certain a bad thing, because rounding to the nearest 1/4 degree seems to give decent clearance....interesting topic
Great work. Impressive and informative to watch :-)
great work
Why not chuck the drill directly onto the hex shaft of the adapter? Or is the chuck not large enough? (I've forgotten what size hex you used but I thought it was 1/2")