I just wanted to say a hearty THANK YOU for this great video. I was able to take my circa 1979 Ariens Snowblower which needed the coil and plug wire replaced as well as an adjustment in the points. This video series gave me the confidence to take the whole thing apart and do it myself! Now it runs beautifully!! This was the only video that really shows how to work with a Tecumseh ignition system in which you can actually see where all the wires go, how they are routed, and other little details.
Hi I whant to say many many thanks for this excellent video, I have a Sears 4.5 outboard motor and whit your video I put my motor working again and I'm very happy with you, so many thanks for help me.
this is probably copyrighted material. by way of positive comments, it is clear this presentation is very valuable. Had you never posted it, 99% of the world would never had know it existed at all. And following YT protocol, you wouldn't be allowed to post it. However; I learned more in the last seven minutes than the previous 5 years. I plan to thumbs (#148...) up this vid. Why? Simply because it is a perfect example of the best of social media. Job well done and thank you.
Long time subscriber; enjoy your videos. My 1974 Toro 524 snowblower starts first pull and seems to run fine but dies after a few minutes. My theory is that the coil is failing as it warms up. Any thoughts? Would you recommend changing the points and condenser along with the coil while you have the flywheel off? What would persuade a sticky flywheel to come loose? Would you recommend heating it with a hairdryer before whacking the nut on the end of the crankshaft with a hardwood block? Thanks
Great video. BUT....how did you set the air gap between the inside flywheel and coil posts? As they are on the UNDERSIDE of the flywheel. I'm trying to set air gap on my 70's Tecumseh lawnmower motor, and the posts are on the underside, and can't be accessed??? to set the air gap? any ideas or help would be HUGELY appreciated. thanks
hey donyboy! I have a Tecumseh h35-45572n motor I removed from an early 80's troybuilt junior rototiller. I completely rebuilt the motor from top to bottom. all original Tecumseh parts that took me months to find! all brand new oem parts, includes new piston and rings, new valves, springs, retainers, intake manifold, carburetor, air filter,new coil, points, condenser, new gasket kit, etc.! in your opinion what do you think this motor is worth? I have all the receipts, videos and pictures of the entire build. just wondering how much I can get for this Tecumseh as it has the dual forward and reverse shafts!
I have a old 8hp tecumseh similar to this (HMSK80 i believe) on a snowbuster 828. Do you have a part number for the recoil starter? Cant seem to find one on mine or in the manual.
I have the same engine. I pulled the recoil rope multiple times and it lost engagement with the engine. It still winds itself back in but now it won't catch the flywheel. Where is the problem? and can you do a video on this? Thanks.
Although I really appreciated this video My 1973 Ariens snowblower Tecumseh engine is now crap. I used the rope method to remove the flywheel and I think it ruined my engine. When I pull start it now I hear a pop and it does not start. It kinda sounds like a tiny back fire. I spent the entire day spray painting it, changing the oil and putting in new fuel hoses. Now nothing. Is it possible the rope got under a piston and bent it?
Hey Don, I've got a Tecumseh V60-70329J engine off of a John Deere 68 that I am restoring. However, I can't get the flywheel off to save my life. I've tried every trick in the book...hammer and prybar, bigger hammer and prybar, penetrating oil, 7 ton gear puller, heating the flywheel with an OA torch. Can't get the damn thing off. Any ideas? -Dale
Hey Don, I have a very similar engine. It's a 1975 HM80 Snowking engine. My issue is when I hit stop using the throttle cable it sends the lever over but it doesn't kill the engine. I checked the parts diagram and it shows a little plastic piece with a piece of wire that sticks out from it and it looks like it is supposed to pop right onto this linkage plate. I'm not sure what its called because the diagram shows it but the parts list doesn't list it, name it or sell it anymore. So when the lever swings over it is supposed to hit the wire on this plastic clip which leads to the wire going to the magneto to kill the engine, it's missing. Any idea what it is and where I can find one. Its not available from the parts site. It looks like it should be a simple one dollar piece if I could find it. Thank's.
-Update- I looked on youtube all over to find a video of what the kill switch mechanism looks like, how it's hooked up, etc. There is not one video of that on youtube. But from the part diagram I had an Idea of what the part was that I needed. However I got lucky. I went downstairs and was looking in a box of old Tecumseh parts my father had put in their as he got them off engine's. There was a lawnmower flywheel break from an older Tecumseh mower. It had that plastic piece with the wire on it. I popped it off that part downstairs went outside and sure enough this little part popped onto the throttle linkage plate. The wire that it was hooked to was a little short so I stripped the end added a little connector to the end took another piece of wire added the other end of the connector so it could plug in and added a round connector that a screw goes thru to the other end. I put electrical tape around any of the exposed wire or metal on the wire and I plugged it into the little plate on the lower end of the front shroud by screwing that wire and the wire leading out from the magneto. Now it works when the lever is sent over to stop it make contact with the wire on that little piece of plastic and it kills the engine. Where it screws on. There is a second bolt because it was a snowblower engine and came off a 1975 Ariens that had a key on the control panel up above. You could turn it to off and remove the key and no one could start the engine or put the key in and turn it to on which closes the circuit allowing you to pull start or use an electric starter to start the engine. So now a second kill switch can be added either one like on the snowblower it originally had or a toggle switch that says on and off that you can flip if say on a go-kart. I learned a lot in a day and I did it all by myself by checking the parts diagram. However I recommend you make videos showing how the kill switches on these engines work so in case someone else come across the issue I had they have an idea of what to do. Because there is very little out there showing how the electrical and kill switches actually work. I would make a video but I don't really have the time but you make a ton of videos and this is an area still grey that would help a lot of people out. I still don't know what they even call that little part, possibly conduit clip or engine kill clip? All I know is on the part sites they don't say what it is and its not available. Can you even still buy one if you needed it? Videos showing this grey area would help a lot of people. Thank's.
I just pulled a flywheel off of an older 8hp... When I did there was two magnets stuck to the ends of the condenser arms... I'm assuming they must have come free from the flywheel. Looks like the search will be on for a new wheel....
Hi, had to replace the complete ignition and now i have a problem reinstall the flywheel. The flywheel now hit the ignition, how ever i turn the ignition the problem stays. I cannot put it further back. How can i solve this problem?
I just wanted to say a hearty THANK YOU for this great video. I was able to take my circa 1979 Ariens Snowblower which needed the coil and plug wire replaced as well as an adjustment in the points. This video series gave me the confidence to take the whole thing apart and do it myself! Now it runs beautifully!! This was the only video that really shows how to work with a Tecumseh ignition system in which you can actually see where all the wires go, how they are routed, and other little details.
you're welcome, make sure you are subscribed
Feinstein
.. mi
Hi I whant to say many many thanks for this excellent video, I have a Sears 4.5 outboard motor and whit your video I put my motor working again and I'm very happy with you, so many thanks for help me.
i'll be posting more Tecumseh howti videos in coming months
Genius, that wood block trick saved my life and my snowthrower. Thanks!
this is probably copyrighted material.
by way of positive comments,
it is clear this presentation is very valuable.
Had you never posted it, 99% of the world
would never had know it existed at all.
And following YT protocol, you wouldn't be
allowed to post it.
However; I learned more in the last seven minutes
than the previous 5 years. I plan to thumbs (#148...)
up this vid. Why? Simply because it is a
perfect example of the best of social media.
Job well done and thank you.
Thanks here as well for the wood block trick.... popped mine off in seconds after seeing this!
Excellent videos on small engine repair. Thank you.
thanks for watching
Yeah, that rope trick was awesome... Thanks for sharing it with us.!!!
Long time subscriber; enjoy your videos.
My 1974 Toro 524 snowblower starts first pull and seems to run fine but dies after a few minutes. My theory is that the coil is failing as it warms up. Any thoughts? Would you recommend changing the points and condenser along with the coil while you have the flywheel off?
What would persuade a sticky flywheel to come loose? Would you recommend heating it with a hairdryer before whacking the nut on the end of the crankshaft with a hardwood block?
Thanks
rope idea is very usefull-THANKS man.
Great video. BUT....how did you set the air gap between the inside flywheel and coil posts? As they are on the UNDERSIDE of the flywheel. I'm trying to set air gap on my 70's Tecumseh lawnmower motor, and the posts are on the underside, and can't be accessed??? to set the air gap? any ideas or help would be HUGELY appreciated. thanks
That rope trick is awesome!!!!
sweet man I have alwise wondered how to do the points on a tecumseh
hey donyboy! I have a Tecumseh h35-45572n motor I removed from an early 80's troybuilt junior rototiller. I completely rebuilt the motor from top to bottom. all original Tecumseh parts that took me months to find! all brand new oem parts, includes new piston and rings, new valves, springs, retainers, intake manifold, carburetor, air filter,new coil, points, condenser, new gasket kit, etc.! in your opinion what do you think this motor is worth? I have all the receipts, videos and pictures of the entire build. just wondering how much I can get for this Tecumseh as it has the dual forward and reverse shafts!
yes for sure
Very interesting. 5 stars, as usual. :-)
excellent videos but I still can't find out how to actually set the timing. There seems to be a gap between 1 of 3 and 2 of 3?
How is the rope stopping the flywheel from moving? Is it keeping the piston at BDC??
I have a old 8hp tecumseh similar to this (HMSK80 i believe) on a snowbuster 828. Do you have a part number for the recoil starter? Cant seem to find one on mine or in the manual.
the small one i have is 5 gallons but i am getting a 60 gallon
@ringbolt9 NYLON rope, as mentioned. Not balers twice as one guy I saw use and have small threads all over the inside of the cylinder....ahhhh.
I have the same engine. I pulled the recoil rope multiple times and it lost engagement with the engine. It still winds itself back in but now it won't catch the flywheel. Where is the problem? and can you do a video on this? Thanks.
Although I really appreciated this video My 1973 Ariens snowblower Tecumseh engine is now crap. I used the rope method to remove the flywheel and I think it ruined my engine. When I pull start it now I hear a pop and it does not start. It kinda sounds like a tiny back fire. I spent the entire day spray painting it, changing the oil and putting in new fuel hoses. Now nothing. Is it possible the rope got under a piston and bent it?
Soulcommander where can I find a coil for Sears suburban 12 horse model number 143602022
Interesting, well done
thanks robert
Hey Don,
I've got a Tecumseh V60-70329J engine off of a John Deere 68 that I am restoring. However, I can't get the flywheel off to save my life. I've tried every trick in the book...hammer and prybar, bigger hammer and prybar, penetrating oil, 7 ton gear puller, heating the flywheel with an OA torch. Can't get the damn thing off. Any ideas?
-Dale
I'm guessing the 7's & 8hp motors are dementionally the same
Hey Don, I have a very similar engine. It's a 1975 HM80 Snowking engine. My issue is when I hit stop using the throttle cable it sends the lever over but it doesn't kill the engine. I checked the parts diagram and it shows a little plastic piece with a piece of wire that sticks out from it and it looks like it is supposed to pop right onto this linkage plate. I'm not sure what its called because the diagram shows it but the parts list doesn't list it, name it or sell it anymore. So when the lever swings over it is supposed to hit the wire on this plastic clip which leads to the wire going to the magneto to kill the engine, it's missing. Any idea what it is and where I can find one. Its not available from the parts site. It looks like it should be a simple one dollar piece if I could find it. Thank's.
-Update- I looked on youtube all over to find a video of what the kill switch mechanism looks like, how it's hooked up, etc. There is not one video of that on youtube. But from the part diagram I had an Idea of what the part was that I needed. However I got lucky. I went downstairs and was looking in a box of old Tecumseh parts my father had put in their as he got them off engine's. There was a lawnmower flywheel break from an older Tecumseh mower. It had that plastic piece with the wire on it. I popped it off that part downstairs went outside and sure enough this little part popped onto the throttle linkage plate. The wire that it was hooked to was a little short so I stripped the end added a little connector to the end took another piece of wire added the other end of the connector so it could plug in and added a round connector that a screw goes thru to the other end. I put electrical tape around any of the exposed wire or metal on the wire and I plugged it into the little plate on the lower end of the front shroud by screwing that wire and the wire leading out from the magneto. Now it works when the lever is sent over to stop it make contact with the wire on that little piece of plastic and it kills the engine. Where it screws on. There is a second bolt because it was a snowblower engine and came off a 1975 Ariens that had a key on the control panel up above. You could turn it to off and remove the key and no one could start the engine or put the key in and turn it to on which closes the circuit allowing you to pull start or use an electric starter to start the engine. So now a second kill switch can be added either one like on the snowblower it originally had or a toggle switch that says on and off that you can flip if say on a go-kart. I learned a lot in a day and I did it all by myself by checking the parts diagram. However I recommend you make videos showing how the kill switches on these engines work so in case someone else come across the issue I had they have an idea of what to do. Because there is very little out there showing how the electrical and kill switches actually work. I would make a video but I don't really have the time but you make a ton of videos and this is an area still grey that would help a lot of people out. I still don't know what they even call that little part, possibly conduit clip or engine kill clip? All I know is on the part sites they don't say what it is and its not available. Can you even still buy one if you needed it? Videos showing this grey area would help a lot of people. Thank's.
All you really need to do is line the magneto mounting holes in the center of the mounting bolts!
I just pulled a flywheel off of an older 8hp... When I did there was two magnets stuck to the ends of the condenser arms... I'm assuming they must have come free from the flywheel. Looks like the search will be on for a new wheel....
yes or re-glue them in their old spot
@snaponjohn100 thanks man
What motor ???? B&s ? Kohler????
What kind of glue would work for that?
JB WELD
I posted a pic of that on my facebook last month
Hi, had to replace the complete ignition and now i have a problem reinstall the flywheel. The flywheel now hit the ignition, how ever i turn the ignition the problem stays. I cannot put it further back. How can i solve this problem?
Get out of the 1960,s rope and wood! use 1/2" air gun for the flywheel nut and 1/2" air chisel to shock the flywheel shaft! C,mon man!
Do you have a how to time an 8 hp Tecumseh with points? The easy way? Lol
slick idea using the rope! you Canadians arent so dumb afterall ;) just kidding. I enjoy the vids, man.
@ringbolt9 lol
tecumseh? WHAT is this produkcion