I use "Overture Easy Nylon" filament it is far better than normal nylon to work with! It prints well at a lower temp than most. I found that using a All Metal Hot End temperature of 252 C and a bed temp of 50 C & flow rate of 100% and a print speed of 50% works fine almost no stringing. I just use Mouse Ears ( pads of filament 1 layer high ) to keep the long parts of the Nylon prints down on the PEI sheet. If you have glass bed I would just use water washable glue stick applied in a thin layer on the glass bed. No encloser needed with the Overture Easy Nylon filament either. It works well on open frame printers just use the stuff stated above. I print on a Upgraded Voxelab Aquila with a Dual lead screw upgrade by Creality and a PEI flexible metal magnetic bed sheet and a High Temperature all metal MK8 Hot End which can go up to 550 C max if you have the metal thermistor and heater cartridge that does that temp? But I only go up to 300 C using the thermistor and heater cartridge for 300 C max. Since even my JAYO carbon fiber PLA needs just needs hot end temp of 225 C and bed 50 C & flow rate of 70% and a print speed of 50%. As for PETG, I found it picky to get it right since I use many different brands due to costs changing! Mostly I print at hot end 245 C and bed of 84 C so the extra bed heat makes the problem of warping less saving the print being ruined? also the flow rate mostly seems to be around 80 to 90% and print speeds at around 40 to 50% on PEI no need for any extra bed help! On glass I would say use the water washable glue stick ( much easier to clean off but really strong sticking ).
I use "Overture Easy Nylon" filament it is far better than normal nylon to work with! It prints well at a lower temp than most.
I found that using a All Metal Hot End temperature of 252 C and a bed temp of 50 C & flow rate of 100% and a print speed of 50% works fine almost no stringing.
I just use Mouse Ears ( pads of filament 1 layer high )
to keep the long parts of the Nylon prints down on the PEI sheet. If you have glass bed I would just use water washable glue stick applied in a thin layer on the glass bed.
No encloser needed with the Overture Easy Nylon filament either.
It works well on open frame printers just use the stuff stated above.
I print on a Upgraded Voxelab Aquila with a Dual lead screw upgrade by Creality and a PEI flexible metal magnetic bed sheet
and a High Temperature all metal MK8 Hot End which can go up to 550 C max
if you have the metal thermistor and heater cartridge that does that temp?
But I only go up to 300 C using the thermistor and heater cartridge for 300 C max.
Since even my JAYO carbon fiber PLA needs just needs hot end temp of 225 C and bed 50 C & flow rate of 70% and a print speed of 50%.
As for PETG, I found it picky to get it right since I use many different brands due to costs changing! Mostly I print at hot end 245 C and bed of 84 C so the extra bed heat makes the problem of warping less saving the print being ruined? also the flow rate mostly seems to be around 80 to 90% and print speeds at around 40 to 50% on PEI no need for any extra bed help!
On glass I would say use the water washable glue stick ( much easier to clean off but really strong sticking ).
If you have problems with warping, I’ve found using a draft shield (found in cura experimental settings) 1-2 mm from the part helps immensely.