I've watched probably close to a hundred transom-replacement videos on TH-cam and never seen any clamping method as clever, simple and operationally perfect as your system.
Capt Joe and fish bump family absolutely no apologies for extended video content Thanks so much for sharing family boat building knowledge every video has totally made lasting improvements into the way you approach every challenge we all encounter in boat building and repair because because things are going to break or need maintenance if we're using these boats for work or play ! Thanks again fish bump family!
Captain Joe, I'm about to do a transom on a small 14.5 ft 1/2 cabin and these transom videos are on point and the best. I am not using coosa myself (yet) as its my first boat rebuild. Your videos are just the perfect teaching method - keep them coming . I watched some of them at least twice to improve my knowledge and I always pick up something on the second and third viewing. I've recently contacted a fibreglass supplier near me in Sydney Australia and they have been most helpful, very personal and looking forward to purchasing my first batch of tools and consumables to get my project moving forward. However my task right now is to build some of your ransom clamps, I'm going to call them Capt. Joe clamps.
Another great video. You are a great teacher and really inspiring to get out there and build or fix some stuff! I will come see you when I get down there soon!
OUTSTANDING example of "necessity is the mother of invention"! I love your clamps and your videos! Binge watching to get current! I wish I was your neighbor or apprentice!!!!
@@FishBumpTV Did you add 2 nuts on the end with the ratchet making a lock nut? Oh I see now you used a large bolt, I was looking at threaded rod. Yours is better.
I love these videos and I don’t mind the long ones at all. My father in law used to own the SeaTow franchise out of Crystal River in Florida. There’s so much knowledge needed for so many different conditions for a quality boat most people don’t understand. I truly appreciate your detailed explanations and demonstration’s & also understand there’s a lot more to this than your showing. Keep on teaching the right way to do things!!!! Thank you kindly
Great technique, I will be making some tomorrow, we are getting at least 3 days of rain. Doing a transom and stringer project on a Stingray Maxim 235SS my 19 year old son bought, his first boat. Good interior , good engine and drive and great looking gel coat . Wort doing some work on.
Absolutely amazing info and advice, in the uk we call the fastener a “ 4 pronged captive tee nut “ threaded bar in various M sizes are available over in the UK. Even better are furniture “ threaded hex drive fixings” drill a pilot hole and use a hex key to screw the hollow fixing into the wood for a solid bite, then screw the threaded rod through. Eg. M10 fixing M10 threaded rod. Thank you for this video I shall be using this clamp method🎉
Easy to find! Went to channel and it was right there like YT knew why i was here lol. Huge thanks. Ive been overthinking a way to do this. I may slightly modify your design. Just for some added strength for the bigger span i have to do.
X2 on the west marine gel coat repair kit tutorial. I ordered one of those to repair a ding in my hull and want to get your advice before I take a dremmel tool to the side of my boat!
Great vid. I appreciate all of the knowledge from experience that your sharing. I have an older skiff I’m restoring and couldn’t have done it without your videos!
Thanks Joe! I love the DIY videos. How about showing how to build a fiberglass mold to pull parts from? Maybe something like a custom leaning post. That could lead to info on upholstery, if you do that kind of work as well. If not, maybe you can get a guest expert to help out? Just spit balling some ideas. Thanks for all of the hard work bringing the information to us.
ditto on this one but more basic/diy. maybe a simple hatch/cover from a wooden mold. i've got a small hatch over my bilge that cracked and need to duplicate it. has a recessed lip on the underside. could show how to make the mold, wax the inside, and brush gelcoat on, lay the glass and core and then pop out of the mold. trim and finish. well on your way to 25 thousand subscribers and 2.5 MILLION views. congrats capt!
Thanks! Great suggestion. I hope to start building a key west style hard-top mold for our 29 very soon, but will also show some options for hatches leaning posts etc. In the meantime I do have a video or two in our 29 boat build series that details me building my console and leaning post-live well. It is quite a ways back in the channel. The thumbnail shows me hoisting a upside down console mold off the plug. I think you might find it interesting. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Man! Why couldn't I have seen this video 2 days ago. I literally just epoxied my coosa in the transom of my 95 Bullet 21xdc bass boat yesterday. I had boards wrapped in plastic clamped with this and that. Layed the kitchen sink up against it to hold tight. It worked but dang this is way slicker. Next time I guess. Love your videos. Watch them all. Big help.
Yep, some good transom clamps really help the job go much easier. Sounds like you got it done, though! I have several videos that should be helpful for you here on the channel. The how-to epoxy over plywood and how to fiberglass over plywood video series has lots of good info. I hope this helps, and I wish you the best!
Capt Joe would love to see how to tint gelcoat with the millions of boats all over the world just wanted to know how to make a blue or oyster white from just standard white base gelcoat and also expand the difference between brushable gelcoat versus standard but really give us some great information concerning these products Hopefully y'all have a great day!
Thanks for the suggestion, that will be coming very soon. I was hoping to get a job in our shop that needed some repair, but I think we are going to move ahead with some content on that subject for you guys, so stay tuned!
Your videos really help her do it yourself guy I’ve dabble mainly with aluminum boats never have I touched fiberglass always been nervous of it. I bought a little 18 foot Olympic 1970s always wanted it put new paint reverse rake little wheel house on it was going to do it in aluminum because I can do that, but I didn’t want to change the look at the 70s style boat just the reverse rake window your video channels fabulous for do it yourself guy really appreciate it
Capt Joe, Another great video! I would love a video on foam core deck, soft spot repair. I picked up a 2008, 17' CC project boat. The two main reasons it is a Project Boat is an 11" x 6" soft spot in the deck, and a probable replacement of the plywood core in the transom. I believe the deck problem, is due to de-lamination of the upper fiberglass layer, maybe some deterioration of the foam core (defect, or maybe deck impact?). The area is outside of the longitudinal stringer, between the stringer and the gunwale. I do not have access from below. Reading the boards and watching videos, the various suggestions for repairing the deck include: 1. Drill some holes in the upper fiberglass layer and inject; a. Great Stuff foam b. polyester resin c. epoxy resin 2. Cut out the section until reaching good core. Replace the damaged foam core with; a. new foam core using; 1. polyester resin 2. epoxy resin b. Coosa board using; 1. polyester resin 2. epoxy resin 3. Tab in a new section using foam core or Coosa board. 4. Cutout the bad section and install a hatch... The current deck is very slick. No matter how I have to repair it, I will re-gelcoat the entire deck and add some grit for traction. If there is enough additional interest in this type of repair, it would make nice video for us "Project Boat" folks. Thanks! Clay
Sounds like a great project boat! There are usually several different ways a problem like this could be repaired. I would try to find out what the floor core is made of. Is it plywood or composite. Also, is there water or moisture in the material. If it is dry, but just delaminated you could inject some resin the rebound it. If it is wet, or rotten, I would probably cut out and replace with new material. Just my opinion, hope it helps and thanks for watching !
Another great video, I use the same style clamps in my shop and just hammer in wedges to tighten the clamps, I'm going to add the bolts to mine its a better design and easier and more cost effective than welding up steel clamps. thanks!
Man I had to comment. This is a great freaking idea. I just prepared both sides of my outer skin for the transom install on my 16ft mfg. I was going to build a large clamping system that use the same parts but this design is much better. With my stringers removed I do not have the leverage I would have to add a spacer block to compress the bottom section. This will allow me to place it where I need it and will not have to add the horizontal 2x4 on the outside of the skin when I clamp.... maybe
@@FishBumpTV Thanks again. I did a dry test fit and works good. I could not find a threaded bolt over 6 inches so I just used threaded rod with acorn nut. I tried to use only 1 2x4 on one side and it started to twist so I see why we need to double up. My first boat 19 grady I did the transom and did not get enough squeeze on it. I had to dig it all out and redo it. This time a bit older and a bit wiser I will take my time.
@@darrisb1727 Yep, your transom is one of those things that needs to be Right! Glad the transom clamps are helpful and as always I appreciate you watching!
Thank you for all the info this is really helping me out on my beginning of my boat restoration. I got a question is it ok to do the stringers and bulk heads while my boat is on my trailer?
Glad you are finding the videos helpful! Many people do leave the boat on the trailer while doing repairs. The boat needs to be well supported whether you leave it on, or take it off. The stringers are the backbone of the boat, and when you remove them the boat can lose some of its shape. If possible we will sometimes only do one stringer at a time so that the bottom of the boat is never left completely unsupported. I hope to make a video on this subject soon for you guys. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Capt.Joe your awesome every time I’ve had a ?you answered thanks for the clarification on the clamp build, I was wondering if you used Tnuts or something else , thanks for sharing 👍👍
Hey Joe, man great videos. First I need to make my shop bigger. Then I plan on building 16 foot Drift boat for fishing our western waters/rivers. The boat will be marine grade plywood do you have any videos covering stitch n glue? I’ve watch many videos but would appreciate your take on the subject. Thank you for what you do and keep it up
Sounds like a cool project! I have built several stitch and glue skiffs, but it was before we started making TH-cam videos. I have my own designs for a 13,15, and 17 foot plywood or composite skiff that I am thinking about building for you guys. I will try to touch on some stitch and glue method while working with epoxy for you guys. Thanks for watching and commenting!
We buy locally from a company called Advanced Plastics, but we working on getting some links up below our videos so you guys can source it easily. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Hey Joe, quick question, I’m going to fiberglass over some plywood that is sheathing plywood. What would you recommend to fill gaps and knot holes? Maybe make that peanut butter mixture that you make and then lay glass over it?
We don't work with a lot of sheathing plywood in the shop. We usually work with marine fir plywood. As you know, different grades of ply can react differently. Epoxy is going to bond to the widest range of materials, but if you fill imperfections with epoxy peanut butter you will want to use epoxy resin and fiberglass over the whole surface. Hope this helps and thanks for watching
Hi Capt Joe, was wondering if you ever use peanut butter made with polyester resin to bond plywood or coosa together? Super cool content btw, learning a lot from every video. Thanks
I would recommend a couple layers of csm or mat with polyester resin instead making a peanut butter. Polyester resin is harder and more brittle than epoxy, and isn't as good at being a glue or adhesive without having actual fiberglass in the mix. Polyester with 2 layers of csm is how I made the stringers in our 29, and I have been happy with the results. Hope this helps and thanks for Watching!
Hey Joe I hate to keep bothering you but a friend on mine gave me 2 gal of polyester laminating resin is that any good or no I want you honest opinion about using on my boat
We use polyester laminating resin alot, but there are different brands and shelf lives. Polyester laminating resin is what we used to build our 29 and it is what we used on our how to fiberglass over plywood video. I just got several fresh gallons of different polyester and vinyl Ester resins in the shop and plan to do a video on them very soon. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thanks a bunch yeah it’s about 4 months old he got 5 gal had this left over was just wanting to make sure about the brand polymer world is the brand just want to make sure I’m using the right stuff
What size and what did you call the bolts you use on your clamps ? I’m running to the hardware store to purchase some ,, thank you , love the videos man.. also is it ok to bond 3/4” composite to 3/4” Marin ply fir for a replacement transom? I was told to do so b/c the composite doesn’t hold screws very well. I’d love to add a fish box to my new transom as well. Any ideas , a mold ? Maybe build it with 1/4 ply and glass over
I’m trying to add pics for you , my transom currently has a splash well which I’m removing to build the transom up to the height of the gunwales. I have a jack plate I’m installing so no splash well needed
3/8 bolts work good for the transom clamps, and we run them through what are called T nuts. I personally have not bonded Coosa board to marine ply in an application like that. We usually go with one or the other in most cases. The 26 pound density Coosa holds fasteners pretty good, especially if it has a good bit of glass on it. You might want to try a test piece to see if it could work for you. We hope to build a hardtop mold for our 29 soon, so there may be some good info for you in that video. In the meantime if you look farther back in the channel, we have a video showing when we built our console and seat mold that you might find interesting. Hope this helps, and best of luck with your project!
I've watched probably close to a hundred transom-replacement videos on TH-cam and never seen any clamping method as clever, simple and operationally perfect as your system.
Thanks so much! Hope it can help some folks get that transom replacement done right. I truly appreciate you watching and commenting!
Outstanding!
Keep it up!!!
I know it’s a tall ladder to climb but this info will be viewed for decades!!
Wow, thanks so much!
Capt Joe and fish bump family absolutely no apologies for extended video content Thanks so much for sharing family boat building knowledge every video has totally made lasting improvements into the way you approach every challenge we all encounter in boat building and repair because because things are going to break or need maintenance if we're using these boats for work or play ! Thanks again fish bump family!
Our pleasure! Thanks for the kind words!
Captain Joe, I'm about to do a transom on a small 14.5 ft 1/2 cabin and these transom videos are on point and the best. I am not using coosa myself (yet) as its my first boat rebuild. Your videos are just the perfect teaching method - keep them coming . I watched some of them at least twice to improve my knowledge and I always pick up something on the second and third viewing. I've recently contacted a fibreglass supplier near me in Sydney Australia and they have been most helpful, very personal and looking forward to purchasing my first batch of tools and consumables to get my project moving forward. However my task right now is to build some of your ransom clamps, I'm going to call them Capt. Joe clamps.
That's fantastic! Wishing you all the best with your project boat and I appreciate you watching and commenting all of the way from Australia 🇦🇺!
That 29 makes the best backdrop 👍🏼💯
Thanks Buddy! Glad you like it.
Another great video. You are a great teacher and really inspiring to get out there and build or fix some stuff! I will come see you when I get down there soon!
Awesome, thank you! Looking forward to it.
OUTSTANDING example of "necessity is the mother of invention"! I love your clamps and your videos! Binge watching to get current! I wish I was your neighbor or apprentice!!!!
Awesome, thank you! I appreciate you watching!
@@FishBumpTV Did you add 2 nuts on the end with the ratchet making a lock nut? Oh I see now you used a large bolt, I was looking at threaded rod. Yours is better.
I love these videos and I don’t mind the long ones at all. My father in law used to own the SeaTow franchise out of Crystal River in Florida.
There’s so much knowledge needed for so many different conditions for a quality boat most people don’t understand.
I truly appreciate your detailed explanations and demonstration’s & also understand there’s a lot more to this than your showing.
Keep on teaching the right way to do things!!!!
Thank you kindly
Thanks so much for your thoughts! More full length, full detail videos coming your way.
Your transom clamps are the best design I’ve ever seen and just in time for my transom install, many thanks 👍🇦🇺
No problem 👍thank you for your thoughts!
Great technique, I will be making some tomorrow, we are getting at least 3 days of rain. Doing a transom and stringer project on a Stingray Maxim 235SS my 19 year old son bought, his first boat. Good interior , good engine and drive and great looking gel coat . Wort doing some work on.
Glad the video was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@FishBumpTV , I'm replacing an I/O transom so I canged it a little but same clamping concept.
@@copperheadmarine Good deal, glad to help!
Do you have a video for repairing stress cracks ? And love all the information you give in your videos keep it up!!
Sorry, not yet, but hope to have one soon. Thanks for watching!
Absolutely amazing info and advice, in the uk we call the fastener a “ 4 pronged captive tee nut “ threaded bar in various M sizes are available over in the UK. Even better are furniture “ threaded hex drive fixings” drill a pilot hole and use a hex key to screw the hollow fixing into the wood for a solid bite, then screw the threaded rod through. Eg. M10 fixing M10 threaded rod. Thank you for this video I shall be using this clamp method🎉
Wow, thanks so much! I appreciate your thoughts and watching all the way from the UK 🇬🇧!
Easy to find! Went to channel and it was right there like YT knew why i was here lol. Huge thanks. Ive been overthinking a way to do this. I may slightly modify your design. Just for some added strength for the bigger span i have to do.
Alright!! Good deal!
X2 on the west marine gel coat repair kit tutorial. I ordered one of those to repair a ding in my hull and want to get your advice before I take a dremmel tool to the side of my boat!
Will do, that is coming soon. Thanks for watching!
Great vid. I appreciate all of the knowledge from experience that your sharing. I have an older skiff I’m restoring and couldn’t have done it without your videos!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching and commenting
Best looking clamps I've seen. Thank you.
Wow, thanks! I appreciate the comment!
Thanks Joe! I love the DIY videos. How about showing how to build a fiberglass mold to pull parts from? Maybe something like a custom leaning post. That could lead to info on upholstery, if you do that kind of work as well. If not, maybe you can get a guest expert to help out? Just spit balling some ideas. Thanks for all of the hard work bringing the information to us.
ditto on this one but more basic/diy. maybe a simple hatch/cover from a wooden mold. i've got a small hatch over my bilge that cracked and need to duplicate it. has a recessed lip on the underside. could show how to make the mold, wax the inside, and brush gelcoat on, lay the glass and core and then pop out of the mold. trim and finish. well on your way to 25 thousand subscribers and 2.5 MILLION views. congrats capt!
Thanks for the suggestion! I have a mold build planned for you guys soon. I truly appreciate you watching and commenting.
Thanks! Great suggestion. I hope to start building a key west style hard-top mold for our 29 very soon, but will also show some options for hatches leaning posts etc. In the meantime I do have a video or two in our 29 boat build series that details me building my console and leaning post-live well. It is quite a ways back in the channel. The thumbnail shows me hoisting a upside down console mold off the plug. I think you might find it interesting. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Captain Joe , Amazing Videos!
Thank you so much!
Man! Why couldn't I have seen this video 2 days ago. I literally just epoxied my coosa in the transom of my 95 Bullet 21xdc bass boat yesterday. I had boards wrapped in plastic clamped with this and that. Layed the kitchen sink up against it to hold tight. It worked but dang this is way slicker. Next time I guess. Love your videos. Watch them all. Big help.
Yep, some good transom clamps really help the job go much easier. Sounds like you got it done, though! I have several videos that should be helpful for you here on the channel. The how-to epoxy over plywood and how to fiberglass over plywood video series has lots of good info. I hope this helps, and I wish you the best!
Toujours de bonnes idées !
Thank you! Glad you are enjoying the videos!
Capt Joe would love to see how to tint gelcoat with the millions of boats all over the world just wanted to know how to make a blue or oyster white from just standard white base gelcoat and also expand the difference between brushable gelcoat versus standard but really give us some great information concerning these products Hopefully y'all have a great day!
Thanks for the suggestion, that will be coming very soon. I was hoping to get a job in our shop that needed some repair, but I think we are going to move ahead with some content on that subject for you guys, so stay tuned!
Thanks great help
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Your videos really help her do it yourself guy I’ve dabble mainly with aluminum boats never have I touched fiberglass always been nervous of it. I bought a little 18 foot Olympic 1970s always wanted it put new paint reverse rake little wheel house on it was going to do it in aluminum because I can do that, but I didn’t want to change the look at the 70s style boat just the reverse rake window your video channels fabulous for do it yourself guy really appreciate it
I wish I had found your videos before I started my boat, very good and easy to follow instructions
Glad you are finding the videos helpful! Thanks for Watching and commenting!
Capt Joe, Another great video! I would love a video on foam core deck, soft spot repair. I picked up a 2008, 17' CC project boat. The two main reasons it is a Project Boat is an 11" x 6" soft spot in the deck, and a probable replacement of the plywood core in the transom. I believe the deck problem, is due to de-lamination of the upper fiberglass layer, maybe some deterioration of the foam core (defect, or maybe deck impact?). The area is outside of the longitudinal stringer, between the stringer and the gunwale. I do not have access from below.
Reading the boards and watching videos, the various suggestions for repairing the deck include:
1. Drill some holes in the upper fiberglass layer and inject;
a. Great Stuff foam
b. polyester resin
c. epoxy resin
2. Cut out the section until reaching good core. Replace the damaged foam core with;
a. new foam core using;
1. polyester resin
2. epoxy resin
b. Coosa board using;
1. polyester resin
2. epoxy resin
3. Tab in a new section using foam core or Coosa board.
4. Cutout the bad section and install a hatch...
The current deck is very slick. No matter how I have to repair it, I will re-gelcoat the entire deck and add some grit for traction.
If there is enough additional interest in this type of repair, it would make nice video for us "Project Boat" folks.
Thanks!
Clay
Sounds like a great project boat! There are usually several different ways a problem like this could be repaired. I would try to find out what the floor core is made of. Is it plywood or composite. Also, is there water or moisture in the material. If it is dry, but just delaminated you could inject some resin the rebound it. If it is wet, or rotten, I would probably cut out and replace with new material. Just my opinion, hope it helps and thanks for watching !
Another great video, I use the same style clamps in my shop and just hammer in wedges to tighten the clamps, I'm going to add the bolts to mine its a better design and easier and more cost effective than welding up steel clamps. thanks!
Glad to help and thanks for watching!
Great idea. Thanks for sharing!
You are so welcome!
Outstanding !
Glad you like it!
Man I had to comment. This is a great freaking idea. I just prepared both sides of my outer skin for the transom install on my 16ft mfg. I was going to build a large clamping system that use the same parts but this design is much better. With my stringers removed I do not have the leverage I would have to add a spacer block to compress the bottom section. This will allow me to place it where I need it and will not have to add the horizontal 2x4 on the outside of the skin when I clamp.... maybe
Awesome! Glad to help, and I wish you the very best with your transom replacement!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks again. I did a dry test fit and works good. I could not find a threaded bolt over 6 inches so I just used threaded rod with acorn nut. I tried to use only 1 2x4 on one side and it started to twist so I see why we need to double up. My first boat 19 grady I did the transom and did not get enough squeeze on it. I had to dig it all out and redo it. This time a bit older and a bit wiser I will take my time.
@@darrisb1727 Yep, your transom is one of those things that needs to be Right! Glad the transom clamps are helpful and as always I appreciate you watching!
When re building a fiberglass boat How do you determine the deck hight ?.the distance from the deck to the top of the gunnels.
Well done! Thanks!
Our pleasure! I appreciate you watching!
Great info!
Glad you think so! I appreciate the comment
Thank you for all the info this is really helping me out on my beginning of my boat restoration. I got a question is it ok to do the stringers and bulk heads while my boat is on my trailer?
Glad you are finding the videos helpful! Many people do leave the boat on the trailer while doing repairs. The boat needs to be well supported whether you leave it on, or take it off. The stringers are the backbone of the boat, and when you remove them the boat can lose some of its shape. If possible we will sometimes only do one stringer at a time so that the bottom of the boat is never left completely unsupported. I hope to make a video on this subject soon for you guys. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Capt.Joe your awesome every time I’ve had a ?you answered thanks for the clarification on the clamp build, I was wondering if you used Tnuts or something else , thanks for sharing 👍👍
You are very welcome! Glad to help!
Why wouldn't you use a cupped end on the bolt? Just curious
Hey Joe, man great videos.
First I need to make my shop bigger. Then I plan on building 16 foot Drift boat for fishing our western waters/rivers. The boat will be marine grade plywood do you have any videos covering stitch n glue? I’ve watch many videos but would appreciate your take on the subject.
Thank you for what you do and keep it up
Sounds like a cool project! I have built several stitch and glue skiffs, but it was before we started making TH-cam videos. I have my own designs for a 13,15, and 17 foot plywood or composite skiff that I am thinking about building for you guys. I will try to touch on some stitch and glue method while working with epoxy for you guys. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hey Joe we’re can you get that Coosa at you got a place we’re I can order it and I love the longer videos
We buy locally from a company called Advanced Plastics, but we working on getting some links up below our videos so you guys can source it easily. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thanks so very much
How about some work on a 60 ft boat?
Thanks for the suggestion! Hope to have some big boat work coming soon for you guys.
What size bolts and what length
3/8 x 6 or 7 the length of the bolt would depend on your transom thickness.
Hey Joe, quick question, I’m going to fiberglass over some plywood that is sheathing plywood. What would you recommend to fill gaps and knot holes? Maybe make that peanut butter mixture that you make and then lay glass over it?
We don't work with a lot of sheathing plywood in the shop. We usually work with marine fir plywood. As you know, different grades of ply can react differently. Epoxy is going to bond to the widest range of materials, but if you fill imperfections with epoxy peanut butter you will want to use epoxy resin and fiberglass over the whole surface. Hope this helps and thanks for watching
Hi Capt Joe, was wondering if you ever use peanut butter made with polyester resin to bond plywood or coosa together? Super cool content btw, learning a lot from every video. Thanks
I would recommend a couple layers of csm or mat with polyester resin instead making a peanut butter. Polyester resin is harder and more brittle than epoxy, and isn't as good at being a glue or adhesive without having actual fiberglass in the mix. Polyester with 2 layers of csm is how I made the stringers in our 29, and I have been happy with the results. Hope this helps and thanks for Watching!
Hey Joe I hate to keep bothering you but a friend on mine gave me 2 gal of polyester laminating resin is that any good or no I want you honest opinion about using on my boat
We use polyester laminating resin alot, but there are different brands and shelf lives. Polyester laminating resin is what we used to build our 29 and it is what we used on our how to fiberglass over plywood video. I just got several fresh gallons of different polyester and vinyl Ester resins in the shop and plan to do a video on them very soon. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thanks a bunch yeah it’s about 4 months old he got 5 gal had this left over was just wanting to make sure about the brand polymer world is the brand just want to make sure I’m using the right stuff
Great video. After my floor replacement, transom is next. What would be the best way to clamp/secure on a bass boat that has the cap still on?
@@hubertanderson7044 Just wet out some cloth or chop strand and see how it bonds.
What size and what did you call the bolts you use on your clamps ? I’m running to the hardware store to purchase some ,, thank you , love the videos man.. also is it ok to bond 3/4” composite to 3/4” Marin ply fir for a replacement transom? I was told to do so b/c the composite doesn’t hold screws very well. I’d love to add a fish box to my new transom as well. Any ideas , a mold ? Maybe build it with 1/4 ply and glass over
I’m trying to add pics for you , my transom currently has a splash well which I’m removing to build the transom up to the height of the gunwales. I have a jack plate I’m installing so no splash well needed
3/8 bolts work good for the transom clamps, and we run them through what are called T nuts. I personally have not bonded Coosa board to marine ply in an application like that. We usually go with one or the other in most cases. The 26 pound density Coosa holds fasteners pretty good, especially if it has a good bit of glass on it. You might want to try a test piece to see if it could work for you. We hope to build a hardtop mold for our 29 soon, so there may be some good info for you in that video. In the meantime if you look farther back in the channel, we have a video showing when we built our console and seat mold that you might find interesting. Hope this helps, and best of luck with your project!
👍
Thank you much!