Your preheat is about the most simple and thorough heat method have seen. It's always refreshing to see a professional show how versatile stick welding is rather than showing off the new $2k million settings mig everything machine, MIG has it's place in the production world but I don't see much use for it on small projects. Keep on fixing the junk 👍
I love it when the internet tells you that Cast Iron CANNOT be welded LOL Years ago I was restoring an old drill press, the table had a "Smile of shame" on it multiple holes drilled into the table of the drill press in an arc shape. I talked to a couple of old timers and they said to just grind it out so there was fresh metal showing and heat it up to the point where water would dance on it like a frying pan, then weld it. After I welded it with a MIG gas welder I peened the welds with a small ballpeen hammer then wrapped the table in blankets and let it cool off, I then ground it flat and you can barely see where it was welded. Its been crack free for about 15 years or so now. Great video, I really enjoy your content. Cheer from Tokyo!
You are so humble. Most youtubers would have claimed that they did grind the hole into the housing on purpose and give some obscure reason. You admit: it stinks. Admitting mistakes shows true mastership.
As soon as I saw you set this axle on your horses I thought of Bare Knuckle Binder. Now I'll watch your video and find out, enjoy all of your content Isaac . Easy going pleasant manner and great tips. Best regards, mjm
Fantastic repair ISAAC! Loved how you laid in the short welds, then peened with the needle scaler to relieve stress. None of those crazy; “ping, pop, uh oh noises.😉 I’m always humbled and schooled by your repair and fabrication skills. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
@@markhelseth253 as a hobbyist welder I’ve found that the short welds are to avoid adding too much heat and to keep the arc from burning to long in an area and putting a hole in your parent material. Heat accumulation makes you need less arc time the longer you weld and trust me on this (you will burn holes in the parent material.) when you vaporize the parent material because you were impatient (I’ve done it the 3/16” plate with too much amps) you make your job that much harder. Welding is definitely a science and learned skill. Tables and charts get you close but experience trumps the book and anybody’s videos. Each situation is unique for thickness, condition, etc. So the good old noggin used to evaluate what’s happening right in front as you weld is critical. I’m a quick learner and have been humbled by the welding processes. I love watching I C Weld, CEE Engineering, and of course Jody from Welding Tips and Tricks.
I've run a small handrail/fire escape fab shop for a few years and welded all kinds of stuff for years prior, BUT I ALWAYS learn something valuable in every video I C Weld posts up. Maybe just a little trick or maybe something really significant, but no matter what I learn something watching these videos. Thank you good sir. I appreciate it very much.
If you're looking for through-wall defects you can put dye on one side and developer on the other. After whatever dwell time suits you, you can process the dye as per normal to check that side for indications too.
Isaac, I was on a job where we had to clean equipment that was involved in food manufacturing, and the final step was to sterilize the equipment with a similar heater. It did the job, but the fumes weren't good.
Nice to see someone in North America still has old school skill to repair almost anything. Those skills are mostly seen over seas in India Pakistan and Asian. Nice work sir!!!
Another fantastic video Isaac. Your attention to detail and careful preparation of the job is what I think sets you apart from the average "rod burner" out there. I was thinking as I watched your video that even though I live a little over 1000 miles from your city if I had a job that required precise and careful work it would almost be worth it for me to take it to you. Great job on the welding and the video too.
I hate it when other peoples real lives interfere with my free entertainment! 🤣 LOL Thanks so much for sharing your skills and expertise whenever you can. Stay safe and focus on what is important first. Be Blessed!!!!!!
Ok, finally got to watch this one! Looks good. I need to hit a junkyard and get some scrap items to practice on with the kids. Thanks for the Arc Gouging Demo, and enjoy the new machine.
Had a similar axle issue one time but caught it early on a 1970s Autocar flat bed with a 38k lbs boring mill on the back coming south in hwy87 middle of the night from Odessa about halfway to San Angelo outside of sterling city. Middle of nowhere. The housing on the rearmost Rockwell sqhd axle was carrying most of the weight unfortunately and it bent the housing thus pinion alignment began to fail. Had a buddy from near Lamesa come with his SA200 and torch and we cut out a ancillary 8” c channel crossmember from the bed and welded in a giant gusset with it across the top of axle. Used a 10 ton portapower and a 20ton sears jack and some chains to roughly straighten the axle before welding gusset in. Made it back to east of Austin.
I would have drilled a small hole at the end of the crack, to alleviate the chance of the crack progressing in future. Heating up the whole casting is, in my opinion, the best thing to slow down the cooling rate of your weld. Stick welding with high graphite flux rods is the best approach, keeping the amps down to avoid undercutting the weld. At the end of the day we all have our own methods to producing the best weld we can. I've TIG brazed cast iron, when the section was thin and using reduced amps to avoid melting the base material. Good post, thank you 👍
Dana 44s are know for the pinion nut coming loose. Put locktite on the bolt. Ive rebuilt a few on the dodge ram i used to own. Rebuilt the original one after that happened, and then had to replace it when the bearings gave out. Put in a fully rebuilt one, just to shred bearings a month later. Im tough on trucks
Nice work there young man . Great to see an experienced man admit it aint pretty but it'll hold. I'm sure there's a fair few of us here that are happy what we weld holds together and ain't pretty but definitely functional. Great idea on the explanation of welding inside first and reasons on why stick and not mig . Great to see more of your skill and another video . Looking forwards to your next one on whatever it is . Never get disappointed with your videos always an explanation and description on the hows and whys . Thanks
LOL 😂 so sometimes I’m 12. That inner bead looks familiar. Hahaha Thanks Issac for real tho on the great tips man. I do some of the same work here in Reno that you do in Texas. And is because of you I have become a better equipment welder.
Thanks for sharing another repair from the masters seat. We enjoy looking over your shoulder and the special details you bring to us through your videos.
Nice to see a new video hope all is well on your end. Most people think they can weld,first thing they do is grab the welder and go.they don’t prep before hand which is a huge mistake. Watched a young buck grab the welder and go to town his welds looked great but failed do to contamination in the welds. Old guy welding the same style of part welds not so great but still good passed do to prep.
Very nice work as always !! I am completely confident this will hold you are very thorough in your .....you did everything you could possible do and in my opinon you did it very nice work !!
Good video and info as always. I've always noticed the plug welds for the axle tubes and wondered about this. Now we know. Thank you. Hopefully I never crack one.
I've noticed a lot of people not preheating cast like that, and I don't understand why they wouldn't. Awesome job! I greatly enjoyed it as usual! Stay safe, and God bless
Interesting to see how this 'impossible' job can be made possible, and a fairly straight forward repair too,..as long as one pays attention to the process as taught by the 'Teacher'! ( Side note, and perhaps a bit 'greedy of me' but it's almost too long between your videos Isaac. Please excuse my 'selfishness', it's just that I enjoy these good videos )
Great to see a new video. Always interesting to see cast iron repairs. I would have terminated the holes by drilling them at their ends but followed what you did other than that. Top stuff.
I started out welding donkeys years ago with a tombstone stick welder & back then, rods were like gold-dust where we lived. You thought long & hard about how you were best going to burn that rod because they were in far from endless supply & 6013 was all you could get hold of. 1mm bodywork? Stick weld. Cast iron? Stick weld. Chassis repairs? Stick. With 2.5 or 3.2 6013. If you had 10 rods to hand, that was "Loads of rods" lol - now we have boxes of 200's laying about & taken for granted. I gradually got loads Posher & got Tig & good Mig machines - for mobile stuff, big diesels running stick & small , light posh Mig machines for site use. I still use Mig & flux core wire machines all day for work. There is however a certain satisfaction in being able to pick up an absolutely boggo stick machine & still be able to weld pretty much anything that arises. Now & then - just to stay able - I grab the stick machine (admittedly unrecognisable compared to the machines we used have) & use it to do stuff, just for the hell of it. One bit of "progress" I can't live without tho, is an auto-darkening mask - today I was mucking about welding some 1mm sheet I should have migged, using 2.5mm rods just "because" - a shiny new flip-front non-auto mask was in a box on a shelf, so I grabbed that too. How crap was it using the flip-front mask? All the crap. It got chucked aside pretty fast. How crap was it welding 1mm steel using stick? Not crap at all - nice & easy - just not with the flip-mask... Autodarkening is one bit of progress I highly approve of.
Hey Isaac, I've been chasing leaks on my welded Ford differential four times. The back cover is welded on and part of the housing. When I started it was an annoying occasional drip. Now it's worse. The first time I could see the skip in the original weld. As there is no drain plug I pulled the axles and carrier assembly. Cleaned it up and stuck some mig wire to plug the gap. Fail!:( Now I used the shop vac on the blow side and held it over the vent and bubble checked. More holes! Cleaned and welded again. Failed! Getting worse. I've finally decided to drill and tap a drain hole to make the disassembly easier. Maybe fifth is the charm? At this point it can't get worse. ?? If this doesn't work I'll pull the whole thing out so I can see what the hell I'm doing😢
The crack may be further past the weld. They are very difficult to chase if you dont have some sort of dye penetrant to help. Its hard to say without seeing it.
Nice video. Interesting to see how it's done on the other continent. Mostely, when the piece is heated up, you can weld continiousely withouth needeling. I'm needeling only when the piece is too big for heating. Anyway, thanks for your video's.
I love using bronze, in this application I would drilled small holes whether it was a stress cracks or not and then preheat, bronze, post heat. I love that grinding afterwards is so clean and efficient. It is the shadow and using the shadow is what makes my day. Heh, heh.😂
A trick I learned yrs ago if I dont have any ni99 rods is to heat it to 450 or so, weld it up with .035 plain wire and then peen the crap out of it afterward then let slow cool overnight. Thats how I do my axle knuckles when I want to armor them, havent had a set fall apart yet.
Would have gone with braising since it’s not under pressure but I fully understand staying in practice. Had a new viewer ask me to end a double loop stitch in leather crafting only to discover that I had to relearn that stitch since it has now been over a year since I did it. Just like metal we do get rusty don’t we? Nice job
That was interesting. I thought you would have drilled the end of the cracks and for the inside welds cut your rods in half to improve the angle. But then your are more skilled than me young man! 😂 Great to see a new video.
Great to see you again Isaac! Me, I would have assumed that the housing was cast iron and after grinding out the cracks and pre-heating, I would have welded it with stick using Ni 99. I have however, welded cast iron with 7018 in a pinch when a customer sprang it on me without any prior notice. If it ever failed, he never told me. I see in some of the comments that this housing is actually cast steel. Did you already know that or was there a test that you did to differentiate it as cast steel and not gray cast iron?
I tend to believe that whenever I see a cast piece welded to regular steel that its a good weldable cast. The axle tubes are plug welded into the center cast housing so it was a go for me. this applies to most any cast to steel weldments. They're usually weldable with 7018's
Sheetmetal thickness gauge: basically a C or U - shaped frame with an pointed anvil and a 1” travel indicator. Handy for measuring thickness on deep features.
You can also use a pair of vise grip C clamp pliers. Adjust the rear screw until it touches the wall thickness, remove from around the housing, close them up and measure the gap when the pliers are closed.
I've used both TIG and E7018 for repairs to truck axles. Both have worked well. And to the people, who are asking about not drilling holes at the ends of the cracks. This wasn't a stress crack. So no need to put more holes to fill.
@@johnjelinek-g7b You speak of cast as a material, when it is a process. One has to know the metallurgy to some extent. Steel, vs iron, vs aluminum, vs bronze, brass, etc. All can be cast and each has a preferred repair process.
@@ShainAndrews Not getting your problem ... I know about cast steel, and various casting procedures . A differential pretty much the same metallurgy as a cyl. block being it has nickel in it to one extent or another . None of that has anything to do with my post . True, cast steel has less chance for your weld to chase the crack . But cast iron has all kinds of possibilities for the crack to wander and cheap grey iron (not a dif.) is next to impossible to work with . Hence the reason no one will take a job of repairing that material by welding . Just JB and cross fingers . lol As for the casting "process"... This ain't my first rodeo I'm 66 and been around mechanical means for my whole life . The reason I like Isaac and the man from over the big pond Kurtis . I just had a difference in procedure than Isaac this time, but it looks like it all worked out fine . I'm sure Isaac didn't mind a little constructive criticism . Don't assume you're the sharpest tool in the shed . I don't, there's always some third grader that has me beat . lol
That’s my axle housing. Thank you for the work did, in a relatively short turnaround. Our 66 IH Pickup is back on the road!
Oh, excellent. Please let me know if anything comes up.
Sometimes when doing unusual projects like this cast piece, you just have to go with a gorilla weld to make it all work out. Nice job Isaac.
Your preheat is about the most simple and thorough heat method have seen.
It's always refreshing to see a professional show how versatile stick welding is rather than showing off the new $2k million settings mig everything machine, MIG has it's place in the production world but I don't see much use for it on small projects.
Keep on fixing the junk 👍
I love it when the internet tells you that Cast Iron CANNOT be welded LOL
Years ago I was restoring an old drill press, the table had a "Smile of shame" on it multiple holes drilled into the table of the drill press in an arc shape.
I talked to a couple of old timers and they said to just grind it out so there was fresh metal showing and heat it up to the point where water would dance on it like a frying pan, then weld it. After I welded it with a MIG gas welder I peened the welds with a small ballpeen hammer then wrapped the table in blankets and let it cool off, I then ground it flat and you can barely see where it was welded. Its been crack free for about 15 years or so now.
Great video, I really enjoy your content.
Cheer from Tokyo!
Thats a good pointer. Heating it like a frying pan., Nice.
You are so humble. Most youtubers would have claimed that they did grind the hole into the housing on purpose and give some obscure reason. You admit: it stinks. Admitting mistakes shows true mastership.
Man, i started getting withdraw symptoms and ptsd from not seeing any new videos lately. 😂 great content as always.
not to worry, I have more in the lineup
@@ICWeld We all missed you Isaac!
The pinion gear had a fight with the ring gear.....did anybody win? Well I guess that's a matter of a pinion. 🤦♂
Ha. good one!
@@ICWeld It doesn't come anywhere remotely as good as your welding Isaac, not even in the same Galaxy. You sir are *tres magnifique!* 👍👍
The welder won, that's who
Lol
Hah!
As soon as I saw you set this axle on your horses I thought of Bare Knuckle Binder. Now I'll watch your video and find out, enjoy all of your content Isaac . Easy going pleasant manner and great tips. Best regards, mjm
Well, He DID bring it to me.😄😄😄. It was for a buddy of his.
Fantastic repair ISAAC! Loved how you laid in the short welds, then peened with the needle scaler to relieve stress. None of those crazy; “ping, pop, uh oh noises.😉 I’m always humbled and schooled by your repair and fabrication skills. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Isaac or Arustydodge - Why the short 1 second welds? Keep the heat down? Better looking "dimes"? Thin material? Filling the gap?
@@markhelseth253 as a hobbyist welder I’ve found that the short welds are to avoid adding too much heat and to keep the arc from burning to long in an area and putting a hole in your parent material. Heat accumulation makes you need less arc time the longer you weld and trust me on this (you will burn holes in the parent material.) when you vaporize the parent material because you were impatient (I’ve done it the 3/16” plate with too much amps) you make your job that much harder. Welding is definitely a science and learned skill. Tables and charts get you close but experience trumps the book and anybody’s videos. Each situation is unique for thickness, condition, etc. So the good old noggin used to evaluate what’s happening right in front as you weld is critical. I’m a quick learner and have been humbled by the welding processes. I love watching I C Weld, CEE Engineering, and of course Jody from Welding Tips and Tricks.
Great video, glad to see new content from you! Almost looked like a vertical crack above the pinion bore on the inside.
thought t he same thing. Would be fitting considering the opposing force and damage.
I've run a small handrail/fire escape fab shop for a few years and welded all kinds of stuff for years prior, BUT I ALWAYS learn something valuable in every video I C Weld posts up. Maybe just a little trick or maybe something really significant, but no matter what I learn something watching these videos. Thank you good sir. I appreciate it very much.
If you're looking for through-wall defects you can put dye on one side and developer on the other. After whatever dwell time suits you, you can process the dye as per normal to check that side for indications too.
Welcome back! One of three of my favorite professional repair persons. Keep up the awesome work and videos!👍👍👍
Who are your other two Favs? I'd like to check them out.
I’m betting one is CEE, and another is either Eric O or Ivan(pine hollow auto diag)
CEE and snowball engineering i reckon.
@@ICWeld 😁😁
@@lolzlarkin3059 Snowball Engineering is awesome!
Always learn something. One of my favorite TH-cam channels.
I appreciate that!
What is evident is the 'touch' by fingers to transmit additional and required info to the brain. Superb teaching IC!
Great job! As my grandpa would say” looks like the bull gear jumped the heifer shaft”. Thanks for the content.
Isaac, I was on a job where we had to clean equipment that was involved in food manufacturing, and the final step was to sterilize the equipment with a similar heater. It did the job, but the fumes weren't good.
Nice to see someone in North America still has old school skill to repair almost anything. Those skills are mostly seen over seas in India Pakistan and Asian. Nice work sir!!!
That is some good info for us poor folk that can't afford to just go out and buy another housing. Well done.
Unless you did everything yourself, It probably would be cheaper to buy a used rear end if one is available.
Another fantastic video Isaac. Your attention to detail and careful preparation of the job is what I think sets you apart from the average "rod burner" out there. I was thinking as I watched your video that even though I live a little over 1000 miles from your city if I had a job that required precise and careful work it would almost be worth it for me to take it to you. Great job on the welding and the video too.
That’s impressive work . The heater looks effective
I hate it when other peoples real lives interfere with my free entertainment! 🤣 LOL Thanks so much for sharing your skills and expertise whenever you can. Stay safe and focus on what is important first. Be Blessed!!!!!!
Ok, finally got to watch this one! Looks good. I need to hit a junkyard and get some scrap items to practice on with the kids. Thanks for the Arc Gouging Demo, and enjoy the new machine.
Fantastic fix, keeping old iron out of the scrap yard.
Had a similar axle issue one time but caught it early on a 1970s Autocar flat bed with a 38k lbs boring mill on the back coming south in hwy87 middle of the night from Odessa about halfway to San Angelo outside of sterling city. Middle of nowhere. The housing on the rearmost Rockwell sqhd axle was carrying most of the weight unfortunately and it bent the housing thus pinion alignment began to fail. Had a buddy from near Lamesa come with his SA200 and torch and we cut out a ancillary 8” c channel crossmember from the bed and welded in a giant gusset with it across the top of axle. Used a 10 ton portapower and a 20ton sears jack and some chains to roughly straighten the axle before welding gusset in. Made it back to east of Austin.
wow!!
Thank you for lowering the sound of the loud noisy processes! That makes the video much better. Great job.
Thank you for sharing Isaac. When you do the tough jobs I learn.😊😊😊
I would have drilled a small hole at the end of the crack, to alleviate the chance of the crack progressing in future. Heating up the whole casting is, in my opinion, the best thing to slow down the cooling rate of your weld. Stick welding with high graphite flux rods is the best approach, keeping the amps down to avoid undercutting the weld. At the end of the day we all have our own methods to producing the best weld we can. I've TIG brazed cast iron, when the section was thin and using reduced amps to avoid melting the base material. Good post, thank you 👍
The heater works now that you disabled the computer. Nice repair on the rear end I always learn something from you Thanks .
Dana 44s are know for the pinion nut coming loose. Put locktite on the bolt. Ive rebuilt a few on the dodge ram i used to own. Rebuilt the original one after that happened, and then had to replace it when the bearings gave out. Put in a fully rebuilt one, just to shred bearings a month later. Im tough on trucks
Nice work there young man . Great to see an experienced man admit it aint pretty but it'll hold. I'm sure there's a fair few of us here that are happy what we weld holds together and ain't pretty but definitely functional. Great idea on the explanation of welding inside first and reasons on why stick and not mig . Great to see more of your skill and another video . Looking forwards to your next one on whatever it is . Never get disappointed with your videos always an explanation and description on the hows and whys . Thanks
I stick with the stick , so I always appreciate the masterclasses you give.
Nice repair Sir, look forward to yor content, always informative. Keep well.
A pleasure to watch Isaac
As always.
Always a pleasure to see you weld, Isaac!
Thanks for the video Issac nicely done with the fix. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️.
I like the pulse setting on your stick machine😂. Works well!
I'm having flashbacks to last month, where I did this on a D44 axle for a WJ Jeep. "Fun" job. You had less trouble than I did!
LOL 😂 so sometimes I’m 12. That inner bead looks familiar. Hahaha
Thanks Issac for real tho on the great tips man. I do some of the same work here in Reno that you do in Texas. And is because of you I have become a better equipment welder.
Say Hi to Juan Ibarra for me if you see him in town.
Hi Isaac 😊 good to see you again mate, nice job on the repair, thanks for your time and efforts, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Thanks for sharing another repair from the masters seat. We enjoy looking over your shoulder and the special details you bring to us through your videos.
I keep watching for your videos, glad to see you posting again .
Very nice repair.
Thanks for sharing. 👍
Some serious skills Isaac! Nice job 👍 👍
Nice to see a new video hope all is well on your end. Most people think they can weld,first thing they do is grab the welder and go.they don’t prep before hand which is a huge mistake. Watched a young buck grab the welder and go to town his welds looked great but failed do to contamination in the welds. Old guy welding the same style of part welds not so great but still good passed do to prep.
Great job as always. When I was younger use to weld up spider gears full time posi in the rear and when you locked in your hubs in the front had posi.
Another great repair Isaac!
very nice repair, thanks for the lesson
Hello from Alabama my friend greatly enjoy your videos.
Very nice work as always !! I am completely confident this will hold you are very thorough in your .....you did everything you could possible do and in my opinon you did it very nice work !!
Nice job! Very good preparation. Nice results! BTW.. This axle looks like the Dana axle from my old volvo 740 diesel. 😊
Another interesting project, thanks for sharing Issac.
I am happy to see you back. Your video's are very educational
Thanks Issac. I've never seen a repair of this type. Good idea on the diesel for leak.finds.
Good video and info as always. I've always noticed the plug welds for the axle tubes and wondered about this. Now we know. Thank you. Hopefully I never crack one.
Another job well done !! Thanks for posting this Isaac . always enjoy your techniques .
I've noticed a lot of people not preheating cast like that, and I don't understand why they wouldn't. Awesome job! I greatly enjoyed it as usual! Stay safe, and God bless
Wow amazing repair Issac!
Best videos on TH-cam! I alway learn something! Isaac your great at what you do, and even better at teaching and sharing!
Interesting to see how this 'impossible' job can be made possible, and a fairly straight forward repair too,..as long as one pays attention to the process as taught by the 'Teacher'!
( Side note, and perhaps a bit 'greedy of me' but it's almost too long between your videos Isaac. Please excuse my 'selfishness', it's just that I enjoy these good videos )
Yeah, I agree. Ive been swamped with home projects. not much time for editing but I have on thats about 3/4 done.
@@ICWeld Ahh, I have patience :)
Great to see a new video. Always interesting to see cast iron repairs. I would have terminated the holes by drilling them at their ends but followed what you did other than that. Top stuff.
D44 housing is cast steel.
good to see u again, hello from Argentina
The things i learn ,Stick welding can be used for more than some farm welder. thank you sir
Good information I have been wondering about welding on and you have good ideas thank you
Great Repair !! 🤗
I saw farmer weld axle on pick up same what you did due overload with seed bag from grain supply.thank educate people about repair.
nice vid, love that little advice at the end!
I started out welding donkeys years ago with a tombstone stick welder & back then, rods were like gold-dust where we lived. You thought long & hard about how you were best going to burn that rod because they were in far from endless supply & 6013 was all you could get hold of. 1mm bodywork? Stick weld. Cast iron? Stick weld. Chassis repairs? Stick. With 2.5 or 3.2 6013. If you had 10 rods to hand, that was "Loads of rods" lol - now we have boxes of 200's laying about & taken for granted.
I gradually got loads Posher & got Tig & good Mig machines - for mobile stuff, big diesels running stick & small , light posh Mig machines for site use. I still use Mig & flux core wire machines all day for work. There is however a certain satisfaction in being able to pick up an absolutely boggo stick machine & still be able to weld pretty much anything that arises.
Now & then - just to stay able - I grab the stick machine (admittedly unrecognisable compared to the machines we used have) & use it to do stuff, just for the hell of it. One bit of "progress" I can't live without tho, is an auto-darkening mask - today I was mucking about welding some 1mm sheet I should have migged, using 2.5mm rods just "because" - a shiny new flip-front non-auto mask was in a box on a shelf, so I grabbed that too. How crap was it using the flip-front mask? All the crap. It got chucked aside pretty fast. How crap was it welding 1mm steel using stick? Not crap at all - nice & easy - just not with the flip-mask... Autodarkening is one bit of progress I highly approve of.
Long time off. Good for you. Funny i only know stick welding. Never have tried anything else. Im just an around the farm welder.
Hey Isaac, I've been chasing leaks on my welded Ford differential four times. The back cover is welded on and part of the housing. When I started it was an annoying occasional drip. Now it's worse. The first time I could see the skip in the original weld. As there is no drain plug I pulled the axles and carrier assembly. Cleaned it up and stuck some mig wire to plug the gap. Fail!:( Now I used the shop vac on the blow side and held it over the vent and bubble checked. More holes! Cleaned and welded again. Failed! Getting worse. I've finally decided to drill and tap a drain hole to make the disassembly easier. Maybe fifth is the charm? At this point it can't get worse. ?? If this doesn't work I'll pull the whole thing out so I can see what the hell I'm doing😢
The crack may be further past the weld. They are very difficult to chase if you dont have some sort of dye penetrant to help. Its hard to say without seeing it.
Really, really interesting, thank you 👍
Nice video. Interesting to see how it's done on the other continent. Mostely, when the piece is heated up, you can weld continiousely withouth needeling. I'm needeling only when the piece is too big for heating. Anyway, thanks for your video's.
Thank you for share your experience and i learn a lot 👍👍👍👍
Nice work❤
Great job, your work is always exemplary.
very nice job . enjoy the videos .
Great job Isaac .Plenty of welding inspectors commenting on this one 😂
I love using bronze, in this application I would drilled small holes whether it was a stress cracks or not and then preheat, bronze, post heat. I love that grinding afterwards is so clean and efficient. It is the shadow and using the shadow is what makes my day. Heh, heh.😂
Ditto
Fantastic repair 👌
Awesome I learned something new again. Now I need an excuse to buy a heater😄
A trick I learned yrs ago if I dont have any ni99 rods is to heat it to 450 or so, weld it up with .035 plain wire and then peen the crap out of it afterward then let slow cool overnight. Thats how I do my axle knuckles when I want to armor them, havent had a set fall apart yet.
Awsome video.
Thanks for sharing
Safe travels
Isaac has the patience that i try to obtain, but darn, I am still an old, impatient man!
Keep on rockin, Isacc. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
You are a awesome guy and a great welder buddy
Would have gone with braising since it’s not under pressure but I fully understand staying in practice. Had a new viewer ask me to end a double loop stitch in leather crafting only to discover that I had to relearn that stitch since it has now been over a year since I did it. Just like metal we do get rusty don’t we? Nice job
That was interesting. I thought you would have drilled the end of the cracks and for the inside welds cut your rods in half to improve the angle. But then your are more skilled than me young man! 😂 Great to see a new video.
Awsum bud, gud teaching my fren..I enjoy ur vidz..
Great to see you again Isaac! Me, I would have assumed that the housing was cast iron and after grinding out the cracks and pre-heating, I would have welded it with stick using Ni 99. I have however, welded cast iron with 7018 in a pinch when a customer sprang it on me without any prior notice. If it ever failed, he never told me. I see in some of the comments that this housing is actually cast steel. Did you already know that or was there a test that you did to differentiate it as cast steel and not gray cast iron?
I tend to believe that whenever I see a cast piece welded to regular steel that its a good weldable cast. The axle tubes are plug welded into the center cast housing so it was a go for me. this applies to most any cast to steel weldments. They're usually weldable with 7018's
As I always say about your jobs great job
Thank you for the video. Thank you Sir
Thank you for the great content.
My 55 Studebaker has the same dif. Thank you.
As always great video.
Sheetmetal thickness gauge: basically a C or U - shaped frame with an pointed anvil and a 1” travel indicator. Handy for measuring thickness on deep features.
You can also use a pair of vise grip C clamp pliers. Adjust the rear screw until it touches the wall thickness, remove from around the housing, close them up and measure the gap when the pliers are closed.
Heat, cool, heat cool my dad always pounded that into my head when messing this this stuff.
I've used both TIG and E7018 for repairs to truck axles. Both have worked well. And to the people, who are asking about not drilling holes at the ends of the cracks. This wasn't a stress crack. So no need to put more holes to fill.
All cracks are stress cracks.
@@ShainAndrews Yep, some kind of stress caused the crack, I agree with you.😀
@@johnjelinek-g7b You speak of cast as a material, when it is a process. One has to know the metallurgy to some extent. Steel, vs iron, vs aluminum, vs bronze, brass, etc. All can be cast and each has a preferred repair process.
@@ShainAndrews Not getting your problem ... I know about cast steel, and various casting procedures . A differential pretty much the same metallurgy as a cyl. block being it has nickel in it to one extent or another . None of that has anything to do with my post . True, cast steel has less chance for your weld to chase the crack . But cast iron has all kinds of possibilities for the crack to wander and cheap grey iron (not a dif.) is next to impossible to work with . Hence the reason no one will take a job of repairing that material by welding . Just JB and cross fingers . lol
As for the casting "process"... This ain't my first rodeo I'm 66 and been around mechanical means for my whole life .
The reason I like Isaac and the man from over the big pond Kurtis . I just had a difference in procedure than Isaac this time, but it looks like it all worked out fine . I'm sure Isaac didn't mind a little constructive criticism . Don't assume you're the sharpest tool in the shed . I don't, there's always some third grader that has me beat . lol
Anyway you look at it, Issac made it look easy.
Thank you getting ready to do a four link suspension and I only have mig
That was cool, had no idea the differential can be welded.
The Picasso of metal working😊