Extremely good video... saved me the money of buying a new stator and I didn't need one. turned a $130 problem to a $40 problem... thanks man.. great work!!
that is why you see me isolate the stator and only check the stator itself.......checking at the battery is a quick test...... to further troubleshoot you have to isolate the component....so that is why you check short to ground at the stator ....not on the side of the wire harness.....this is for anyone that is getting confused between our dialogue......thanks for bringing these valid points up
Generally a very good video, agree with everything with a couple differences. 1. Low voltage doesn't mean a bad regualtor. It's a definite possibility, but not certain 2. The stator being grounded isn't always a stator problem, sometimes something is wrong on the frame that causes the short. 3. Take better care of your stator connector. That thing is a big problem child, and this one looks a little discolored. And definitely don't jam your meter probe in like that, make a test lead.
Hey brotha! thank you very much for this video! just like you said most of these others are very misleading and sometimes just show video with no audio and what not. you helped tons and saved me quite a bit of money!!!!!!!! now i can ride once again!!!!!!!! back to track homie! ride safe! and thanks again!
I did all this and I'm not a mechanic. Ok I didn't change the rear tire! I did take it to a local rip off shop. But it's not that hard. Take your time. And get a dam torque wrench, use titelock every where. Good video treek7, as it helped me.
Really good video. I need to do the stator test. Had this charging issue before and changed rectifier without any testing. I lucked out and it did charge the battery again. But Yesterday I ran into the not charging issue again and this time Im thinking it might actually be the stator cause I was hearing a whine/whistle while in low rpm engaging and disagaging the clutch. Again Excellent video, Glad that guys like yourself put up beneficial video. Thanks
You just saved my damn day. I was recently riding home, cranked up the rmp, next thing I know, my bike died. New battery, bike died. Checked fuses and they are fine. Time to do the tests...
I didn't move my radiator. Just pulled the air box. And gas tank. But I put in a speedo drd, changed sprockets -1+2 steel vortex, black Ek chain, Motul oil ,k+N filter, cleaned air filter, new rear pilot, and new front brake pads. At 18,365 miles.
Looks like repairing sport bikes is easier than cruisers, fairing removal aside. On my cruiser you have to remove the exhaust to remove the stator. Excellent video.
Ran out of room on the last one, although there were a couple things I disagreed with I think the video as a whole is solid. Kudos for the Bluepoint meter (seriously people, if you want do your own work, buy a good meter like bluepoint or fluke, not a wal-mart cheapie), and also for changing the gasket, which too often gets neglected. In case you're wondering, I'm a technician for an aftermarket shop for electrical parts, so I do know what I'm talking about.
Nice vid thanks, my battery was dead this morning after not using the bike for just one day. Only got the bike a few weeks ago so don't know the history of the battery. So could be just old. Now I know how to test the charging before swapping out the battery. :)
Richard Collins Well looks like my rectifier is dead. Having to take bike back to dealer to get fixed on warranty. Really hope this is not going to be a recurring theme with the bike. I checked the stator as in the video and passed the continuity test. My voltmeter is a bit pants so could not get a good AC reading. Will buy a new one to test it properly. But checking the rectifier as per the Haynes manual and the values were all over the place. To make it worse the sun is out. :(
a general spec for a cold engine is about 65 volts a/c or more. thats testing at all 3 leads...it doesnt seem to be too far out of spec, you will need to further troubleshoot and single out the faulty component if your bike isnt charging
Great video E4T. Thank you so much. I'm pretty handy with doing everything on my bike, just need an idea on how. Yours was very detailed. Probably saved me a few hundred bucks.
+Echo4Tango Yessir! Turned out my local dealership was going to charge 50 to test the system, 300 for a new stator, and 300 for labor. Not including rectifier (if necessary), gasket, cover (mine is scuffed),and new battery! I tested like you showed. Rectumfier is good, stator is bad. Ordered new stator, cover, and gasket online for $140! Thanks again buddy!
Thing is, you isolated from the harness, not the ground, which is correct for AC output (well done there, only thing is you want to check all 3 phases, make sure they're even). But the stator's still installed. If the bike's been down on that side and the cover's dented in the right place, it will touch the windings and short. To truly isolate it you go to take it out and test lead-to-core of the stator and if (as you said) you get anything other than OL (on a 3-phase like this), it's bad
Not the same bike but I crashed my R6 and cracked a hole in the stator cover. I've got all the parts but I'm not the most mechanically gifted guy in the world. You've made it look easy but I know i'll mess it up some how
Thank you Mr. Treek, Excuse my ignorance, but i have a problem with my Yamaha xj600 1986. Battery is new and holding correct voltage at 12.5 and maintaining while running. When running, the voltage meter shows an increase to about 14.5 or so while revving . Bike stays running without the headlights, but on full charge the bike will run with headlights for about 30 minutes until the charge is drained to the point where the battery can no longer supply a spark to the plugs and therefore the bike goes out. I am confused to know why it shows that the charging unit works, but independently the battery is drained due to the headlights. (Tailights are also independently draining the battery, just at a slower of course, due to its power consumption). I have also cleaned and steel wool brushed the stator. Also, before this problem occured, i had one of the prongs connecting to the regulator/rectefier which appeared burnt out (which originally didnt allow the battery to charge). I cut and rewired the burnt connection and made a direct connection, after this the battery began to show charge (as previosly explained. Thoughts/Comments ? Thanks for your reading and consideration!
Hey, i know it's been a long time, but did you solve this? i'm having the same problem. Solved it for a while with a new R/R but it's starting to happen again. Cheers
if you are confident you did all the tests i described then the problem isnt your charging.....but the way you are describing your issues, it does sure sound like you got a gremlin in your charging system, these simple tests will rule it out....if you dont have the trained eye or the experience to know what to look for, then i suggest as always to bring it to a pro. I seen many people create more damage trying to save money and do it themselves. good luck
Have a 09 GSXR600. Mechanic told me my voltage regulator needs to be replaced. He said he checked the bike and it threw up a code that said the voltage regulator was bad. He said he confirmed it by disconnecting the battery on the positive terminal and something about barely touching it and sparks started flying right away. Is that right? Is there a way to just test only the regulator? Ty!
+Echo4Tango Hey just finished about and hour ago. Job wasn't so bad after the vid.(Thanx again) Did A voltage check and everything was nominal. only issue now which i just noticed was some oil seeping out of a bolton the stator cover, just one of them. Not a lot and it's only when i started it up. My question is does the gasket take time to possibly seal or can that mean somethings else is off? would love your insight bro. Peace!
before anything check if the bolt is tightened ..... it only takes about 15 ft/lb i believe for the torque spec....do it on all them. if thats not it...then well yeah I would definitely remove the stator cover and inspect the gasket and engine gasket surface and the bolt it self and along with the threaded hole on the engine that it screws into..inspect for cracks, breaks anything that doesn't look right
Is it a good idea to put gasket sealer on the gasket. As I will definitely put sealer on the grommet. All the videos I've watch and none show gasket sealer on the actual gasket. So I'm assuming I don't need to.
i did find the culprid though thanks :) its not the regulator itself but the 5 point conector plugin in to the regulator ... think it bumed it with the last busted regulator , thanks for the help though ...
thanks.... 1. if you have a known good battery, which means its fully charged and a decently maintained bike and you run these tests, and your getting low voltage it will be your regulator, theres nothing else involved in the charging system 2. thats why you test on the stator side for short to ground...its isolated from the rest of the bike, if theres a short that means stator is done 3. good call on probing the connectors. make some test leads or just be gentle but make sure you get contact
ok i have a problem that i hope you can help with. Turn the key in the ignition and everything turns on. Head lights, fuel pump, cluster exct. when i hit the start button nothing happens. I took apart the start button and cleaned it up. it was in good shape little wear but no burn marks or melted plastic. I did the first test you did and got 0.0. bike wont start so i cant do the other test.
Besides looking at the actual coils, no there isn't. It need power to it to check any kind of reading with a meter naturally.lol. Look for Burn areas in the coil
okay thanks ... the only thing i havent tested was the regulator , wasnt sure how to up to know ... which may also be the culprid right ? cause since everything from the stator up checks out and maybe indicaters just doesnt recieve enougth power due to the bike not charging ... dont know but thanks
Great video but ALL other sources say the internal resistance of the stator for this bike should be around .5 ohms for every combination of the three wires. Am I missing something?
what sources? ... .5ohms is not something I would want to see...i have never heard of .5ohms being ok... according to Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha engineers they also agree.
Okay i run those test and at 5krpm my battery was no more then 12v.. then i check the STATER and 1st the show me oo2 and at 18v.. so i do need to get new stater not the REGULATOR cuz when i run the engen at 1st test wen i went over 5krpm my volt was around 12v
Hey man quick question. Its happened 2 times already, so when I went to start it. There wasnt any lights. Bike was all dark. No power period, looked into the main fuse and found the 30amp fuse was blown... Again it happened again. Please please need advice. On what to replace
Is a Ducati monster s4r 07 , battery was at 12,7 volt once I start goes down to about 11,5 and doesn't matter what rpm I put it at it just won't go up at all, what could be the cause? Thanks
my bike died while riding the other day well i was at a stop sign and it died. i bought a new battery installed it and ran the test like you said. at idle its around 14.5-14.7 and when i rev it up to 5000rpm it dosent move really at all sits around 14.6-14.7 (14.78 highest it hit) dose this sound like it was just a bad battery or is my rectifier bad and over charging the battery? thanks
I have a vmax 92. My r/r went 2 times. My stator is not grounded. At 5000 rpms it puts out 70 to 80 volts. Could the volts be to high and blowing the r/r...
Yea im I am just gotta go buy that device u used to test it I dont own one ...so I guess my next question would be where can I purchase one and what's it called
hi, i measured my gsxr 600 k8 because i noticed the rectifier was pretty hot....engine idling 13.8 v on battery, 25Vac on stator output...revved the engine...14.7 on battery, 105 Vac on stator... is this ok?
I have a problem with my battery draining when running the bike charges it up to 14 but after a month or so the battery drops down around 11 volts and need at least 12 to start it? You think it's a bad battery? I bought a new one in January and this started
was riding my '06 750 home the other day and it shut off on me. got home checked fuse and main relay fuse was blown. put in new fuse, turned the key and for a split sec bike powered on and fuse went out again. im not to tech savvy but any ideas where i should start to diagnose the issue? im either thinking i have a short somewhere or might be my rectifier...then again im hoping its not the stator. Thanks
hi. when I test my stator, I put negative black pen tester on the ground. in other side I put the positive red pen on each of three yellow cable, one by one. on the idle rpm, I got 8.6v of each 3 yellow cable. is it good or its time to buy a new good one stator?
Thanks TreeK7, Awesome video I must have watched it a thousand times today while I was replacing my stator and R/R. I have the same problem as jaimeEsparza: brand new stator, brand new R/R, both connected and only getting 12.x v at the battery @5,000 rpm. I do have 65+ at the stator coupler. Voltage does go up while reving but it doesn't even get to 13v. Any idea what else I should check? Thanks
1. Not true, there's all the wiring and connections between them; corroded wires, connectors, wires rubbing against the frame, etc can all do it. Also, regulators that use a signal wire will overcharge if there's an abnormal voltage drop between the battery and the regulator. 2. Even then you're checking to installed ground (which is still a good test to run). But the most conclusive way to check is take the stator off and check if it's shorted to itself. 3. Thanks for agreeing.
Sorry if sound stupid but never worked on a bike b4 and My bike just keeps killing my battery replaced it with a new one and then it killed it again. So do u think this could be a rectifier? ???
Good job on the bike. Where did you get your parts, the stator looked better made than some I've seen. I like to know, if I need to buy some.. Thanks. yl
I got it from my local dealership SUZUKI. I don't get aftermarket or off brand electrical parts, its just something you don't do with these high performance bikes. If you don't want to get them from a dealership or a bike shop...take a look online or check out eBay
I have seen some of the aftermarket stators, not the best workmanship, they had big name, but I think your right, get the factory parts. Yes ebay can be a good place for parts, but sometimes not so much. Just have to be careful, and know the parts. Thanks for your thoughts. yl
My bike sound wierd on idle, seems to be dpark plugs, recently changed them... But the problem is still here...!!! Any idea on how to check the voltage on each spark plug?
Hello thanks for the video! I think i am having a stator issue on my busa. If i start the bike first thing in the morning, it will start right up no problem. By the time I am about 30 minutes into a ride, if i stop and turn off the bike, when I try to start it back up it cranks but wont catch. I have to hit the starter and hit the throttle and pop the clutch. Is this the stator going bad or starter? someone said a fuel issue? any ideas?
Great job on showing how to check the stator. Appreciate it! One question for my 07 GSXR. At 5k RPM I have about 77vac, but get 85 about 6k RPM on all three wires. Do ya think I'm ok?
okay guys , i own a honda cbr 600 f3 ... already had bat and regulator probs a while ago so i replaced them both . now ive got a prob where the bike just sudenly stops charching and then the indicators doesnt work properly aswell , when reving the bike you can see its pulling to much power ... ive tested the stator , bat , checked for loose conection but i cant find any prob ... help please ? any suggestions ??
Hey, I did all 3 tests, first gave me 14.3volts second was reading fine. But the third test gave me no output volts, when I took out the stator one of the wires where damaged as in ripped apart. So is that means I got to buy a new stator or I could somehow connect the wire back and it'll be working again? Or no it won't do any good anymore. Just trying to save 110$ lol.
I am currently working on this problem on my gsxr 600 k1. When at 5k rpm and measuring volts on the battery it only gives about 12.2v. So then I did the diode test on my recitifier and it checked out good. So then I check the connector from the stator. I dont exactly know wich pin is 1 or 2 or 3 but when I connect for example 1 to 2 and 1 to 3 it says a normal 65v. But when I connect 2 to 3 it says only 3v. Also when I messure resistance from one of the pins from the stator connector to a ground it gives about 1 ohm. I think this means my stator is dead?
according to your description thats what it sounds like. Remember to make sure you have a known good battery when doing these tests, if the battery has died multiple times then its probably safe to say change out batteries also
TreeK7 Battery is in good condition, i connect it once a week to my optimate to charge. Only recently it didnt have enough power anymore but that is ofc explainable by the stator not working properly. Tnx for the help.
TreeK7 One thing i forgot to mention is that i also checked the resistence of the connector coming out of the stator and all 3 combinations checked out good. ( all at around 1 ohm i believe ) However as i described earlier the volt from one of the wires isnt good ( giving 3 volts at 5k rpm ) Isnt this weird since the resistance is good on all 3 wires?
Heh TreeK7! great vid! Many thanks. Very helpful to see how your bike works at least. Trouble is, mine doesn't. Main discrepency is * when I disconnect those 3 stator wires the bike doesn't start, any idea why? It is 3 wires coming off the like yours. * When I do the continuity test at the connector on the stator side I get readings so you'd think stator is bad like you say but my manual says I should get a reading. However, maybe the korean manual is wrong. Any ideas or guesses? *
the only thing you might notice is when you press the starter button, bike will crank and start up a bit slower, compared to a freshly charged battery where the bike will crank up and start almost immediately.... also when your riding your speedo will stop working it'll either say 0mph or just be stuck at a certain speed....then when you turn off the bike, its guaranteed that it will not start up again.
HELP PLEASEEE!!!!!! i have ac voltage at 5,000 rpm is around 50 and at the battery i have 13.6-13-8.. ac voltage at the idle is 13 and at the battery is 12.4(not charging) The resistance between those 3 wires is ok and it has no ground with the frame
just follow the steps on the video all the way thru exactly how I describe it and you will find your problem in your charging system. If everything else checks out then you have another problem that is not charging related.....and for that im not gonna even try on here.....bring it to a local small shop preferably Veteran owned and have a pro look at it.
Yes he did tell u how to check the rectifier. When u rev over 5rpm, the meter should read 14ish. If u rev more upwards of 7or 8 rpm, the rectifier will "rectify" and keep the meter at 14 is. If the meter goes up higher than the 14ish, your rectifier is bad. There are ways to take it off and test it by itself but it's which ever u prefer but testing it on the bike will give u info on other parts of your charging system. 4000rpm and meter stays same as idle it's stator or stator connection(usually). The rectifier will usually show signs of burn if it's bad do to the extra Volts running through it
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](/img/tr.png)
Extremely good video... saved me the money of buying a new stator and I didn't need one. turned a $130 problem to a $40 problem... thanks man.. great work!!
This is the Best by far GSXR stator/rectifier replacement video! Thanks for posting it.
that is why you see me isolate the stator and only check the stator itself.......checking at the battery is a quick test...... to further troubleshoot you have to isolate the component....so that is why you check short to ground at the stator ....not on the side of the wire harness.....this is for anyone that is getting confused between our dialogue......thanks for bringing these valid points up
Generally a very good video, agree with everything with a couple differences.
1. Low voltage doesn't mean a bad regualtor. It's a definite possibility, but not certain
2. The stator being grounded isn't always a stator problem, sometimes something is wrong on the frame that causes the short.
3. Take better care of your stator connector. That thing is a big problem child, and this one looks a little discolored. And definitely don't jam your meter probe in like that, make a test lead.
Hey brotha! thank you very much for this video! just like you said most of these others are very misleading and sometimes just show video with no audio and what not. you helped tons and saved me quite a bit of money!!!!!!!! now i can ride once again!!!!!!!! back to track homie! ride safe! and thanks again!
I did all this and I'm not a mechanic. Ok I didn't change the rear tire! I did take it to a local rip off shop. But it's not that hard. Take your time. And get a dam torque wrench, use titelock every where. Good video treek7, as it helped me.
Really good video. I need to do the stator test. Had this charging issue before and changed rectifier without any testing. I lucked out and it did charge the battery again. But Yesterday I ran into the not charging issue again and this time Im thinking it might actually be the stator cause I was hearing a whine/whistle while in low rpm engaging and disagaging the clutch.
Again Excellent video, Glad that guys like yourself put up beneficial video. Thanks
You just saved my damn day. I was recently riding home, cranked up the rmp, next thing I know, my bike died. New battery, bike died. Checked fuses and they are fine. Time to do the tests...
I didn't move my radiator. Just pulled the air box. And gas tank. But I put in a speedo drd, changed sprockets -1+2 steel vortex, black Ek chain, Motul oil ,k+N filter, cleaned air filter, new rear pilot, and new front brake pads. At 18,365 miles.
Looks like repairing sport bikes is easier than cruisers, fairing removal aside. On my cruiser you have to remove the exhaust to remove the stator. Excellent video.
FYI:
The manual states that the voltage test should be done with the hi-beam on.
The manual also states how to test a rectifier/regulator.
Ran out of room on the last one, although there were a couple things I disagreed with I think the video as a whole is solid. Kudos for the Bluepoint meter (seriously people, if you want do your own work, buy a good meter like bluepoint or fluke, not a wal-mart cheapie), and also for changing the gasket, which too often gets neglected.
In case you're wondering, I'm a technician for an aftermarket shop for electrical parts, so I do know what I'm talking about.
Great video! Very informative and in-depth. Now, out to re-check everything because I'm fairly certain I did it wrong the first time.
Nice vid thanks, my battery was dead this morning after not using the bike for just one day. Only got the bike a few weeks ago so don't know the history of the battery. So could be just old. Now I know how to test the charging before swapping out the battery. :)
Richard Collins Well looks like my rectifier is dead. Having to take bike back to dealer to get fixed on warranty. Really hope this is not going to be a recurring theme with the bike. I checked the stator as in the video and passed the continuity test. My voltmeter is a bit pants so could not get a good AC reading. Will buy a new one to test it properly. But checking the rectifier as per the Haynes manual and the values were all over the place. To make it worse the sun is out. :(
a general spec for a cold engine is about 65 volts a/c or more. thats testing at all 3 leads...it doesnt seem to be too far out of spec, you will need to further troubleshoot and single out the faulty component if your bike isnt charging
Great video E4T. Thank you so much. I'm pretty handy with doing everything on my bike, just need an idea on how. Yours was very detailed. Probably saved me a few hundred bucks.
+Caleb Evenson at least a few hundred bucks! ... glad the info helped.
+Echo4Tango Yessir! Turned out my local dealership was going to charge 50 to test the system, 300 for a new stator, and 300 for labor. Not including rectifier (if necessary), gasket, cover (mine is scuffed),and new battery! I tested like you showed. Rectumfier is good, stator is bad. Ordered new stator, cover, and gasket online for $140! Thanks again buddy!
Yea, I had to take the ram air duct out too. And that bolt on the rad helped so much haha. Turns out both my stator and regulator were fried.
Thanks for this video. Explained the perfect amount of info. Just so happenes I have the same bike so this makes it really easy.
Awesome video bro. Thanks for this. You just saved me time and money for diagnosis fees.
Thing is, you isolated from the harness, not the ground, which is correct for AC output (well done there, only thing is you want to check all 3 phases, make sure they're even). But the stator's still installed. If the bike's been down on that side and the cover's dented in the right place, it will touch the windings and short. To truly isolate it you go to take it out and test lead-to-core of the stator and if (as you said) you get anything other than OL (on a 3-phase like this), it's bad
Prior to removing the 8mm bolts @4:50. Drain the oil in the engine.
Not the same bike but I crashed my R6 and cracked a hole in the stator cover. I've got all the parts but I'm not the most mechanically gifted guy in the world. You've made it look easy but I know i'll mess it up some how
Great video..Clear concise and to the point..Thanks very much...
What if you already replace the battery, the stator and regulator and still wont change the battery?
Excellent vid! Well detailed..
...and liking the Woodcraft stator cover ;-)
thanks, its one of my favorite parts. Its very nice in quality, highly recommend.
Thank you Mr. Treek,
Excuse my ignorance, but i have a problem with my Yamaha xj600 1986. Battery is new and holding correct voltage at 12.5 and maintaining while running. When running, the voltage meter shows an increase to about 14.5 or so while revving . Bike stays running without the headlights, but on full charge the bike will run with headlights for about 30 minutes until the charge is drained to the point where the battery can no longer supply a spark to the plugs and therefore the bike goes out. I am confused to know why it shows that the charging unit works, but independently the battery is drained due to the headlights. (Tailights are also independently draining the battery, just at a slower of course, due to its power consumption). I have also cleaned and steel wool brushed the stator. Also, before this problem occured, i had one of the prongs connecting to the regulator/rectefier which appeared burnt out (which originally didnt allow the battery to charge). I cut and rewired the burnt connection and made a direct connection, after this the battery began to show charge (as previosly explained. Thoughts/Comments ? Thanks for your reading and consideration!
Hey, i know it's been a long time, but did you solve this? i'm having the same problem. Solved it for a while with a new R/R but it's starting to happen again. Cheers
thanks....good luck and just be patient when trying to get behind the radiator.
if you are confident you did all the tests i described then the problem isnt your charging.....but the way you are describing your issues, it does sure sound like you got a gremlin in your charging system, these simple tests will rule it out....if you dont have the trained eye or the experience to know what to look for, then i suggest as always to bring it to a pro. I seen many people create more damage trying to save money and do it themselves. good luck
Have a 09 GSXR600. Mechanic told me my voltage regulator needs to be replaced. He said he checked the bike and it threw up a code that said the voltage regulator was bad. He said he confirmed it by disconnecting the battery on the positive terminal and something about barely touching it and sparks started flying right away. Is that right? Is there a way to just test only the regulator? Ty!
great vid bro. working on my k7 today. crossing fingers
Hope it all works out for you!
+Echo4Tango Hey just finished about and hour ago. Job wasn't so bad after the vid.(Thanx again) Did A voltage check and everything was nominal. only issue now which i just noticed was some oil seeping out of a bolton the stator cover, just one of them. Not a lot and it's only when i started it up. My question is does the gasket take time to possibly seal or can that mean somethings else is off? would love your insight bro. Peace!
before anything check if the bolt is tightened ..... it only takes about 15 ft/lb i believe for the torque spec....do it on all them. if thats not it...then well yeah I would definitely remove the stator cover and inspect the gasket and engine gasket surface and the bolt it self and along with the threaded hole on the engine that it screws into..inspect for cracks, breaks anything that doesn't look right
Cool man, good video!!
So at idle how many volts ? Thanks
Is it a good idea to put gasket sealer on the gasket. As I will definitely put sealer on the grommet. All the videos I've watch and none show gasket sealer on the actual gasket. So I'm assuming I don't need to.
i did find the culprid though thanks :) its not the regulator itself but the 5 point conector plugin in to the regulator ... think it bumed it with the last busted regulator , thanks for the help though ...
thanks....
1. if you have a known good battery, which means its fully charged and a decently maintained bike and you run these tests, and your getting low voltage it will be your regulator, theres nothing else involved in the charging system
2. thats why you test on the stator side for short to ground...its isolated from the rest of the bike, if theres a short that means stator is done
3. good call on probing the connectors. make some test leads or just be gentle but make sure you get contact
ok i have a problem that i hope you can help with. Turn the key in the ignition and everything turns on. Head lights, fuel pump, cluster exct. when i hit the start button nothing happens. I took apart the start button and cleaned it up. it was in good shape little wear but no burn marks or melted plastic. I did the first test you did and got 0.0. bike wont start so i cant do the other test.
Did you fix this problem? Same thing is happening with my bike
Great stuff, but is there anyway to test the stator with just the multimeter without a bike battery???? your help will be greatly appreciated....
Besides looking at the actual coils, no there isn't. It need power to it to check any kind of reading with a meter naturally.lol. Look for Burn areas in the coil
okay thanks ... the only thing i havent tested was the regulator , wasnt sure how to up to know ... which may also be the culprid right ? cause since everything from the stator up checks out and maybe indicaters just doesnt recieve enougth power due to the bike not charging ... dont know but thanks
Great video but ALL other sources say the internal resistance of the stator for this bike should be around .5 ohms for every combination of the three wires. Am I missing something?
what sources? ... .5ohms is not something I would want to see...i have never heard of .5ohms being ok... according to Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha engineers they also agree.
TreeK7 Suzuki manual says so
***** there shouldn't be a reading when doing to ground on stator....aftermarket electrical parts are trash...especially if from china
What were you looking at exspenses wise on this replacement? Also, what symptoms did you have that made you check them out?
Dry informative thanks
What if you don't rev it mine showed 0 without reving
Okay i run those test and at 5krpm my battery was no more then 12v.. then i check the STATER and 1st the show me oo2 and at 18v.. so i do need to get new stater not the REGULATOR cuz when i run the engen at 1st test wen i went over 5krpm my volt was around 12v
Awesome video :)
Hey man quick question. Its happened 2 times already, so when I went to start it. There wasnt any lights. Bike was all dark. No power period, looked into the main fuse and found the 30amp fuse was blown... Again it happened again. Please please need advice. On what to replace
I have all the bolts off but still can't get the cover off. can you help please
Is a Ducati monster s4r 07 , battery was at 12,7 volt once I start goes down to about 11,5 and doesn't matter what rpm I put it at it just won't go up at all, what could be the cause? Thanks
my bike died while riding the other day well i was at a stop sign and it died. i bought a new battery installed it and ran the test like you said. at idle its around 14.5-14.7 and when i rev it up to 5000rpm it dosent move really at all sits around 14.6-14.7 (14.78 highest it hit) dose this sound like it was just a bad battery or is my rectifier bad and over charging the battery? thanks
I have a vmax 92. My r/r went 2 times. My stator is not grounded. At 5000 rpms it puts out 70 to 80 volts. Could the volts be to high and blowing the r/r...
How do I remove that magneto flywheel? Is that bolt reverse thread?
that was my goal.... i can go way into more detail, but then people will get overwhelmed, plus i need to keep it under 10min
My cluster and headlight went out, only my neautral light works, could this be the problem
Yea im I am just gotta go buy that device u used to test it I dont own one ...so I guess my next question would be where can I purchase one and what's it called
hi, i measured my gsxr 600 k8 because i noticed the rectifier was pretty hot....engine idling 13.8 v on battery, 25Vac on stator output...revved the engine...14.7 on battery, 105 Vac on stator... is this ok?
I have a problem with my battery draining when running the bike charges it up to 14 but after a month or so the battery drops down around 11 volts and need at least 12 to start it? You think it's a bad battery? I bought a new one in January and this started
was riding my '06 750 home the other day and it shut off on me. got home checked fuse and main relay fuse was blown. put in new fuse, turned the key and for a split sec bike powered on and fuse went out again. im not to tech savvy but any ideas where i should start to diagnose the issue? im either thinking i have a short somewhere or might be my rectifier...then again im hoping its not the stator.
Thanks
What if im pulling 70-76 avc?
hi. when I test my stator, I put negative black pen tester on the ground. in other side I put the positive red pen on each of three yellow cable, one by one. on the idle rpm, I got 8.6v of each 3 yellow cable. is it good or its time to buy a new good one stator?
What if I can not get my bike started.
Awesome thanks for the hard work man. Doubt you'll see this comment but if you do what stator did you buy to replace it?
Thanks TreeK7, Awesome video I must have watched it a thousand times today while I was replacing my stator and R/R.
I have the same problem as jaimeEsparza: brand new stator, brand new R/R, both connected and only getting 12.x v at the battery @5,000 rpm. I do have 65+ at the stator coupler. Voltage does go up while reving but it doesn't even get to 13v. Any idea what else I should check? Thanks
Battery is less than a year old and has only died once (due to my stator problem), I recharged it but it did sit here for a couple of weeks ...
Vic S what did you ever find out?... are the new parts OEM?
1. Not true, there's all the wiring and connections between them; corroded wires, connectors, wires rubbing against the frame, etc can all do it. Also, regulators that use a signal wire will overcharge if there's an abnormal voltage drop between the battery and the regulator.
2. Even then you're checking to installed ground (which is still a good test to run). But the most conclusive way to check is take the stator off and check if it's shorted to itself.
3. Thanks for agreeing.
having trouble locating the connector from the stator wire. followed it but cannot find it.. have a 06 gsxr 600.
moved the radiator forward and pulled out the bracket that hold the regulator also..
lol i just did my spark plug change too i could of found it if i watched your video before
+STEVEN SIRIVAN its there man trust me... its really tucked back up in there and a very tight fit. Just gotta have patience and you'll get it
I have the same. You gotta lift the gas tank and air filter housing.
Shannon Hoon always easier.
Sorry if sound stupid but never worked on a bike b4 and My bike just keeps killing my battery replaced it with a new one and then it killed it again. So do u think this could be a rectifier? ???
Good work and kindness.
Great video bro....! Full review, by the way should put rectifier on the position or anywhere? Which way is good? Thanks
Good job on the bike. Where did you get your parts, the stator looked better made than some I've seen. I like to know, if I need to buy some.. Thanks. yl
I got it from my local dealership SUZUKI. I don't get aftermarket or off brand electrical parts, its just something you don't do with these high performance bikes. If you don't want to get them from a dealership or a bike shop...take a look online or check out eBay
I have seen some of the aftermarket stators, not the best workmanship, they had big name, but I think your right, get the factory parts. Yes ebay can be a good place for parts, but sometimes not so much. Just have to be careful, and know the parts. Thanks for your thoughts. yl
My bike sound wierd on idle, seems to be dpark plugs, recently changed them... But the problem is still here...!!!
Any idea on how to check the voltage on each spark plug?
is it fuel injected carbs prolly need to be cleaned
my conector melted on my R1 i think from the heat because is charging correct
Do you need a spanner wrench and what size?
Awesome video man, thank you.
Hello thanks for the video! I think i am having a stator issue on my busa. If i start the bike first thing in the morning, it will start right up no problem. By the time I am about 30 minutes into a ride, if i stop and turn off the bike, when I try to start it back up it cranks but wont catch. I have to hit the starter and hit the throttle and pop the clutch. Is this the stator going bad or starter? someone said a fuel issue? any ideas?
Great job on showing how to check the stator. Appreciate it! One question for my 07 GSXR. At 5k RPM I have about 77vac, but get 85 about 6k RPM on all three wires. Do ya think I'm ok?
yeah you are in the ball park of 65VAC...should be fine
okay guys , i own a honda cbr 600 f3 ... already had bat and regulator probs a while ago so i replaced them both . now ive got a prob where the bike just sudenly stops charching and then the indicators doesnt work properly aswell , when reving the bike you can see its pulling to much power ... ive tested the stator , bat , checked for loose conection but i cant find any prob ... help please ? any suggestions ??
what did your battery read with it disconnected and isolated?
good to hear that...thats why i made this video...theres alot of misleading videos out there that annoyed me to the point of making my own ....lol
Hey, I did all 3 tests, first gave me 14.3volts second was reading fine. But the third test gave me no output volts, when I took out the stator one of the wires where damaged as in ripped apart. So is that means I got to buy a new stator or I could somehow connect the wire back and it'll be working again? Or no it won't do any good anymore. Just trying to save 110$ lol.
Can a burned stator be rewired?
i checked my stator on my 07 zx6r, it says 00. on ohms when the bike is started it reads 72-77 volts when upto 5k. whats the prob then
sorry for the realllly late response...so what did you find out?
oh sorry and when it stops charching it mostly starts charging again after i took another drive or 2 , sometimes the bat goes flat !!
Dude, thanks alot for this video ! :)
This is a great video
I am currently working on this problem on my gsxr 600 k1. When at 5k rpm and measuring volts on the battery it only gives about 12.2v.
So then I did the diode test on my recitifier and it checked out good.
So then I check the connector from the stator. I dont exactly know wich pin is 1 or 2 or 3 but when I connect for example 1 to 2 and 1 to 3 it says a normal 65v. But when I connect 2 to 3 it says only 3v.
Also when I messure resistance from one of the pins from the stator connector to a ground it gives about 1 ohm.
I think this means my stator is dead?
according to your description thats what it sounds like. Remember to make sure you have a known good battery when doing these tests, if the battery has died multiple times then its probably safe to say change out batteries also
TreeK7 Battery is in good condition, i connect it once a week to my optimate to charge. Only recently it didnt have enough power anymore but that is ofc explainable by the stator not working properly.
Tnx for the help.
TreeK7
One thing i forgot to mention is that i also checked the resistence of the connector coming out of the stator and all 3 combinations checked out good. ( all at around 1 ohm i believe )
However as i described earlier the volt from one of the wires isnt good ( giving 3 volts at 5k rpm )
Isnt this weird since the resistance is good on all 3 wires?
2008 hayabusa clutch tengo problema
Heh TreeK7! great vid! Many thanks.
Very helpful to see how your bike works at least. Trouble is, mine doesn't. Main discrepency is
* when I disconnect those 3 stator wires the bike doesn't start, any idea why? It is 3 wires coming off the like yours.
* When I do the continuity test at the connector on the stator side I get readings so you'd think stator is bad like you say but my manual says I should get a reading. However, maybe the korean manual is wrong.
Any ideas or guesses?
*
Well done video, thanks.
the only thing you might notice is when you press the starter button, bike will crank and start up a bit slower, compared to a freshly charged battery where the bike will crank up and start almost immediately.... also when your riding your speedo will stop working it'll either say 0mph or just be stuck at a certain speed....then when you turn off the bike, its guaranteed that it will not start up again.
need locktite on the stator inside bolts??
+Tue73 no .. just set them to torque spec
ok thanks ..
i have send you a messege ..
+Tue73 I don't see it
My bike won't go over 11 volts at 5000 rpm
when warming up the bike what temperature is it warm?
operating temperature 140 or more ..just not cold
HELP PLEASEEE!!!!!! i have ac voltage at 5,000 rpm is around 50 and at the battery i have 13.6-13-8.. ac voltage at the idle is 13 and at the battery is 12.4(not charging) The resistance between those 3 wires is ok and it has no ground with the frame
battery is done, old, dead. Try removing that battery charge it over night and re-test.
done that... same thing
sorry, its probably an oddball situation where I would just have to be there...did you ever find the solution
that place to the regulator its shit its always hot i changed place in mine and put a computer fan never had more problems in many years
The Rider can u send a picture
just follow the steps on the video all the way thru exactly how I describe it and you will find your problem in your charging system. If everything else checks out then you have another problem that is not charging related.....and for that im not gonna even try on here.....bring it to a local small shop preferably Veteran owned and have a pro look at it.
there is no test for the regulator/rectifier ... you can check the diodes but thats about it, not always conclusive.
easy to follow vid. SF Motto
was your battery charged when u ran tests
usually what happens ....sometimes u get lucky and only need to replace one or the other
You never tested the rectifier. How do I know if my rectifier is done?
Javi V can't test the reg/rect
Oh okay, just making sure
TreeK7 You sure? Thought you could remove it and test it.
very sure
Yes he did tell u how to check the rectifier. When u rev over 5rpm, the meter should read 14ish. If u rev more upwards of 7or 8 rpm, the rectifier will "rectify" and keep the meter at 14 is. If the meter goes up higher than the 14ish, your rectifier is bad. There are ways to take it off and test it by itself but it's which ever u prefer but testing it on the bike will give u info on other parts of your charging system. 4000rpm and meter stays same as idle it's stator or stator connection(usually). The rectifier will usually show signs of burn if it's bad do to the extra Volts running through it
Thanks man.