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Pt 14. Shoemaking Welting, Boars Bristles and Cordwainers Spinning Top
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ต.ค. 2020
- I show how to make a shoe welt, and then I sew the welt onto the shoe. I also show how one can sew with boars bristles as needles, and how to ply thread using a cordwainers spinning top. These are all fascinating aspects of making handmade shoes.
I always get excited when I see another shoe video on the Channel
When i learned to make the lin thread (handsewn shoes) by a old shoemaker he told i had to use 6 treads for kids shoes, 7 for females and 9 for mens shoes. The middle point of the threads were put around a nail on the table and i had the 2 other ends in my hand. I had to put "beg" (the sticky thigs) on the treads so they glued together (newer twist it because it dont last so well) and then i had to lay them on the apron and roll it so they became round and sticked together. After i had rolled the hole cord i had to put the pighair on and then roll the cord with beewax again so it worked.
The pighair can hold about 80 kg without breaking if made right.
You can also get iron needels instead of pighair for shoemaker sewing. (instead of using the hook witch dont fit thick homemade cord)
This I find very useful! I have been looking for information about this for years. Thank you for that!.
When plying a short length, what I do is overspin the thread, then fold it in half and let it ply itself from the fold back to the tips. This way it is less likely to unply itself, although the adhesive helps with that too.
As always very informative, That bit of stitching looked tricky & a bit of an R sole to do. Well l!!!, someone had to say it.
Magnificent description and demonstration of the boar's bristle preparation. (Improvised very well!) Thanks so much.
Thanks Scott I was worried it would not show up on camera!
This is a really enjoyable video. Thanks for sharing your learning journey!
Thanks David
The awesomeness of that video title is because I haven't watched it yet and have absolutely no clue what any of that means lol It's fantastic.
Good work Harry, I’m enjoying watching the process. I find that the first stitch joining the welt, is to pull the thread through half way and make sure both ends even up, then continue stitching using the jerk needle, rather than tying a second thread to the first. As you say, there’s many different ways to do it, and you’re doing a great job.
All the best 👍
Thanks very much for the tip...so much to learn with this.
Very interesting as always. Keep up the excellent work.
Another great instalment, the shoes are looking good. The stitching method is excellent, a great job. Thank you for sharing, regards, Chris.
Superb Harry. What a labour of love. I'll never again complain about the price of a pair of shoes!
So good Harry I was stuned when you said about the bores brissel amazin to see can't wait for the rand
All the best ash
Thanks Ash..that will be next!
Me wife was thinking I watched some obscure chsnnel. She came running out of the kitchen asking: did he just say a ball's hair? I laughed my ass off before i told her it a boar's hair.
Fantastic. Very instructive. One small point, the thread is not flax, it's hemp - marked "chanvre" in French.
Thanks very much.
I agree with you about Bedo's. He's brilliant - and very amusing. Let's continue . . .
respect man Welts i remember being VERY hard.
I congratulate you ! Well done. Bravo!! I enjoy watching you progress.
Best wishes
Tony
Thanks Tony
Oh to have half of your patience! Great work as always Harry 👍🏼
Thanks very much Dekk
Thank you so much for sharing this videos, i feel so relaxed when i watch you working and jealous of your workshoo view haha
Thanks very much...having had a morning of videos going slightly wrong its good to get your message.
Neat. Just so.
I get such pleasure out of watching your progress and the most interesting bits are when you are firing up your brain to improvise some fiddly bit.
And I'm jealous of your tools, if I'm honest.
Thanks. The surprising thing is that a lot of these tools are sold in a very sorry state for very little, and with a bit of work they clean up great.
Regarding the drop spindle for plying, look up drop spindle for wool spinning. I suspect the principal is quite the same with wool as with thread. Great videos! So glad I found them. I’ve learned a lot. Thank you!
interesting historical techniques, these shoe vids are pleasant, i watch bedos leatherworks too
Bedos is great!
Fascinating project Harry.
Thanks Frank.
Fascinating and informative as always, Harry.
Cheers,
Steve
P.S. On a more flippant tangent, the names of cobbling paraphernalia always remind me of Rambling Sid Rumpo's ditties.
Thanks Red Svain. 😊
Ah, welts... I can still hear the instructors shouting at my 16-year-old younger self that "I haven't polished the welts" when I joined the Royal Navy many years ago...
Wow..how these things stick...I will think of that next time I polish shoes!
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, GREAT JOB, I make moccasins 4 Ren Faire people, any length asked 4 at the sit down, I purchased a gismo that makes thread 4 rigging on ship models that I use 2 make stronger thread, I also like porcupine quills 4 needles, needles and awls are bent on my anvils round horn, I also use a hook with a rectangled closed handle 4 more control, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Thanks that sounds fascinating.
Do you have a shop or a website? I'd like to have a good pair of moccasins
Penelope, I have a Shop, I also require a sit down, by phone, in person in my shop, or at yours, if you R in another STATE BY PHONE WILL WORK, I am in Texas, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Would be nice if you put this in a separate playlist as shoemaking.
I downloaded them offline :)
Good tutorials that go in depth are hard to find.
Thanks Adam...I might do that soon...thanks again.
Nicely done Harry. Though your twine seems to be hemp, not flax.
Ooooo.. (admiration)..
Your groover is much sharper than mine.
.
Look up "drop spindle "
I have done a 2 ply with a drop spindle and of course there is more than one correct way of doing it... I did one line on my thigh from a ball.. the other on the spindle feeding over my spindle hand. Did the twist against the thigh... twist the spindle.. let it drop toward the floor between my knees.. if needed the knees can grab the spindle and give me a chance to regain control before a knink becomes a nightmare.
Thanks Stephen that's great.
I love watching these videos. You have a unique set of tips & takeaways that you just don’t see anywhere else. I am perplexed on one thing though: I cannot find grooving tool comparable to the one you use here. Unsure what available tool will work. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks for sharing
I really wish I could get my hands on a singer patcher sewing machine. So I can make shoes and handbags on it.
Some people use the Chinese patcher machine that is readily available...I have no knowledge of it, but you will find lots of videos here with people using it. I suspect you need to be prepared to fettle them a bit.
if you spin the thread the opposite way from its first spinning, you don't need a ton of the wax to make it stay.
Thanks very much Nicole.
Great project! I don't quite grok the ´'to deep' to much inner edge left? to close to the outside?
i have tried various thread,s, and all rot when under water, in wet weather conditions. any ideas anyone.
I thing you should probably be looking for information on using a " drop bobbin " to ply tread.
Yes thanks it's very similar. I tried spinning some flax in an earlier video, it's more tricky than wool!
Very interesting. Thanks for this video. Where did you source your curved awl and the curved stitcher awl/needle?
George Barnsley of Sheffield will sell these...I think I bent an old one off Ebay in a flame to get the curvature I wanted.
Hey , how are you doing buddy . Where could a youngster learn this Lost trade of Cordwaining and Cobber. I’m talking fine quality material handcraft American Made . Like the good ol days . Where could one learn this trade. I’d pay for this craft . PLEase let me know , get back with me
As I guess you are in the US, try and have a chat with Trenton and Heath, or Texas Traditions. Good luck.
@@harryrogers yes I’m in Los Angeles thank u
Harry, try the worshipful company of cordwainers cordwainers.org they may be able to provide the info you are looking for. By the way you are doing an excellent job! I was trained in shoemaking and measuring for bespoke shoes and for a first go you are doing really well.
What is the thickness needed for the welt? can it be any thickness? Thanks.
Hi it will depend on the type of shoe, 4mm for lighter, 5mm for heavier as a rough guide
Hello Harry! After I watched your videos I am attempting to repair my boots, I needed an awl like the one you have, I looked for it at Amazon and I got one but is not as good as the one you have, I want to purchase a good one like yours! does not need to be the same, just strong, the ones at Amazon/Ebay are crap, Do You know where can I purchase one? Thanks so much in advance! @@harryrogers
Hi George Barnsley of Sheffield UK have very good awls....you will find all this in my shoemaking book How To Make Handmade Shoes A Step By Step Guide 😂
What thickness is the welt ?
Hi some medium temper russet leather, close fibered 2.5mm thick is ideal for typical shoes. I cover all this in my book Making Handmade Shoes A Step By Step Guide on Amazon. Best regards Harry
you're from UK don't you
Yes UK.
@@harryrogers what's city?
The number of ads on your videos has increased dramatically recently. There were about 10 ads on this video.I think this has happened on TH-cam generally a precursor to making us all subscribe and pay.