As an OG M2 owner, (late 2016) I think the only 'common' issue I had with mine, was the rear diff seals leaking. It is a fairly expensive repair, as it's 4.5 hours labour to drop the axle carrier and remove the diff, even though the parts are cheap. I had all 3 seals replaced. Edit : just a slight correction, when you were pointing out the carbon bits, and calling them OEM, strictly speaking that is not correct. OEM means original equipment manufacturer, which means it's not an 'original' part, but one which is made to the same specifications, quality, etc as the original, but made by a different manufacturer. Now, 70% of the time, it's exactly the same part, made in the same factory, but doesn't come in a BMW branded box. The original parts are OE (original equipment) and come in BMW branded packaging. Aftermarket parts are the other (cheaper) option, where they will fit and do the job, but are not made to the same spec/quality. Sorry, I'm not being pedantic, but I used to work in the motor trade, in parts departments, so I just wanted to point that out sir 🙂
Yes you are technically right lol. For most of us OE and OEM become interchangeable even though it’s not correct. But if a leak was the only common problem then that’s pretty good. Leaks seem to be the one thing my car doesn’t have.
@@BertskiZPolski I know the rear lights misting are pretty common too, fortunately mine doesn't suffer. I do have an intermittent issue with the left door speaker crackling, which can be a sign of water ingress to the HK stereo amp, located in the left rear boot behind the trim, sometimes water can intrude through the vent in the rear wheel arch, but mine seems to be simply a dodgy wire. I'm not fussed as I don't have music on in the car, and why would anyone with that beautiful exhaust note to listen to !
I wonder what causes it in the later models then. The issue in the 2016 was a ground wire which was remedied in the 2017. Either they didn’t fully fix it by adding an addition wire, or there’s an additional issue causing it.
i think it's really interesting you say the M2 is better with the DCT, because I really do love my manual, especially with a short shift kit. 1-2 shifts really don't bother be because first gear is only supposed to be used to get going from a standstill
The manual isn’t bad, and I do really enjoy it. But the car feels more like it was built around the DCT. It feels more “sports car” where the manual feels more “enthusiast”. Generally I use 1st to just get going, but when I really want to get moving I have to let the engine rev out pretty far in the band and I find I have to wait longer than I’d like to engage second. It’s not a huge deal, but depending how hard you plan to drive the car it’s something to consider if picking it over the DCT. The 1-2 in the DCT kicks you in the back and it just takes off. It can be a bit jerky in sports+ in slow traffic but that’s every DCT out there. I think the DCT is a better modern transmission, but you have to be okay with giving up the manual experience for paddles, and it has to be driven hard, not left in auto like many people say to do.
Awesome video man!! Perfect timing too, very detailed and thorough I really enjoyed it. Thinking about trading in my 370z for an OG M2, should I do it?
Appreciate it! I would say the M2 is a better car, but upkeep is going to be a bit more. I would stick with the 370z if you really prefer JDM cars. But test drive the M2 for sure.
I thought about it, but I don’t have enough first hand experience with them to do a buying guide. This gen M2 I’ve owned twice in both transmissions so I have a good idea of them.
I'm currently looking at a 2017 M2 manual in Long Beach Blue. The car currently has 53,000Km. Anything specific I should watch out for with this mileage ?
Spark plugs are due every 30k miles (~50k km), so make sure those were done, or do them soon. Fluids are also due around that time so I would just make sure those are done, or do them once you buy it. Then as long as the oil changes were done regularly you should be pretty good. Be sure to check the clutch life, and I’d recommend replacing the stock charge pipe ASAP as they’re bound to crack. Check rubber hoses, door seals, rust, basic stuff like that. The age of the car makes it prone to wear, the mileage is still fairly low and doesn’t raise concerns.
As an m235i owner for the past 5 years, do you think the jump to n55 m2 is worth it? 2018s are almost double the cost. Or would you rather jump to m2 comp for a little more?
IMO, I think the M2 is going to feel too similar. I traded in an M240i for my first M2, and because it had a different engine, I went from AWD to RWD, black with red interior to blue with black interior, it felt like a completely different car despite the car and power being similar. I would jump to the M2C if you still want to stay with BMW at that price point.
I had a M235i before I got my 2018 OG M2. And don't regret it one bit. It's everything I liked about the M235i but way better and more refined. DCT is a fun transmission and the car looks 20 times better.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
As an OG M2 owner, (late 2016) I think the only 'common' issue I had with mine, was the rear diff seals leaking.
It is a fairly expensive repair, as it's 4.5 hours labour to drop the axle carrier and remove the diff, even though the parts are cheap.
I had all 3 seals replaced.
Edit : just a slight correction, when you were pointing out the carbon bits, and calling them OEM, strictly speaking that is not correct.
OEM means original equipment manufacturer, which means it's not an 'original' part, but one which is made to the same specifications, quality, etc as the original, but made by a different manufacturer. Now, 70% of the time, it's exactly the same part, made in the same factory, but doesn't come in a BMW branded box.
The original parts are OE (original equipment) and come in BMW branded packaging.
Aftermarket parts are the other (cheaper) option, where they will fit and do the job, but are not made to the same spec/quality.
Sorry, I'm not being pedantic, but I used to work in the motor trade, in parts departments, so I just wanted to point that out sir 🙂
Yes you are technically right lol. For most of us OE and OEM become interchangeable even though it’s not correct. But if a leak was the only common problem then that’s pretty good. Leaks seem to be the one thing my car doesn’t have.
@@BertskiZPolski I know the rear lights misting are pretty common too, fortunately mine doesn't suffer.
I do have an intermittent issue with the left door speaker crackling, which can be a sign of water ingress to the HK stereo amp, located in the left rear boot behind the trim, sometimes water can intrude through the vent in the rear wheel arch, but mine seems to be simply a dodgy wire.
I'm not fussed as I don't have music on in the car, and why would anyone with that beautiful exhaust note to listen to !
really love my 2017 OG F87 performance edition! Love how this thing turns!
Nice job. I'll just add that the taillight failures didn't end with 2016 models - they are all prone to it, including LCI's & Comps.
I wonder what causes it in the later models then. The issue in the 2016 was a ground wire which was remedied in the 2017. Either they didn’t fully fix it by adding an addition wire, or there’s an additional issue causing it.
Thanks for all details of the information , that make me come up with the best decision for my M2 👍
Connecticut boy here! Good luck and have fun, sir.
Been looking for a vid like this,amazing👍🏻
Glad you found it helpful!
i think it's really interesting you say the M2 is better with the DCT, because I really do love my manual, especially with a short shift kit. 1-2 shifts really don't bother be because first gear is only supposed to be used to get going from a standstill
The manual isn’t bad, and I do really enjoy it. But the car feels more like it was built around the DCT. It feels more “sports car” where the manual feels more “enthusiast”. Generally I use 1st to just get going, but when I really want to get moving I have to let the engine rev out pretty far in the band and I find I have to wait longer than I’d like to engage second. It’s not a huge deal, but depending how hard you plan to drive the car it’s something to consider if picking it over the DCT. The 1-2 in the DCT kicks you in the back and it just takes off. It can be a bit jerky in sports+ in slow traffic but that’s every DCT out there. I think the DCT is a better modern transmission, but you have to be okay with giving up the manual experience for paddles, and it has to be driven hard, not left in auto like many people say to do.
Remove the clutch delay valve, it will massively improve 1-2 shifts
Awesome video man!! Perfect timing too, very detailed and thorough I really enjoyed it. Thinking about trading in my 370z for an OG M2, should I do it?
Appreciate it! I would say the M2 is a better car, but upkeep is going to be a bit more. I would stick with the 370z if you really prefer JDM cars. But test drive the M2 for sure.
Can you do one for the next gen one? BMW M2 F87
I thought about it, but I don’t have enough first hand experience with them to do a buying guide. This gen M2 I’ve owned twice in both transmissions so I have a good idea of them.
I'm currently looking at a 2017 M2 manual in Long Beach Blue. The car currently has 53,000Km. Anything specific I should watch out for with this mileage ?
Spark plugs are due every 30k miles (~50k km), so make sure those were done, or do them soon. Fluids are also due around that time so I would just make sure those are done, or do them once you buy it. Then as long as the oil changes were done regularly you should be pretty good. Be sure to check the clutch life, and I’d recommend replacing the stock charge pipe ASAP as they’re bound to crack. Check rubber hoses, door seals, rust, basic stuff like that. The age of the car makes it prone to wear, the mileage is still fairly low and doesn’t raise concerns.
As an m235i owner for the past 5 years, do you think the jump to n55 m2 is worth it? 2018s are almost double the cost. Or would you rather jump to m2 comp for a little more?
IMO, I think the M2 is going to feel too similar. I traded in an M240i for my first M2, and because it had a different engine, I went from AWD to RWD, black with red interior to blue with black interior, it felt like a completely different car despite the car and power being similar. I would jump to the M2C if you still want to stay with BMW at that price point.
@@BertskiZPolski thx for the reply, I prefer the dimensions and styling of f87 vs g87 so I think M2 comp is a reasonable upgrade path, good vid btw
@@surfbumb123 Appreciate it! I’m not a big fan of the G87s, either. I 100% prefer the F87 every time. Good luck man!
I had a M235i before I got my 2018 OG M2. And don't regret it one bit. It's everything I liked about the M235i but way better and more refined. DCT is a fun transmission and the car looks 20 times better.
One benefit is any mods you have on the M235i (for the most part) can be re-used on the M2.