💡QuinLED💡 24v on 12v WS2815 / BTF2815 | Will it burn?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ค. 2020
- BTF is claiming some interesting things about their BTF2815 which uses UCS1903 clone chips vs original WS2815 LEDs. Like that it can handle 24v! So I crafted a custom QuinLED-Dig-Uno and well, let's put that to the test ;)
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░▒▓[Shopping links]▓▒░
📦 The QuinLED-Dig-Uno LED controller: quinled.info/2018/09/15/quinl...
📦 WS2815 or BTF2815 LED strip: geni.us/Gg2IV
No link for the crappy bench power supply, it's just too horrible.
Check out quinled.info for a lot of information on LEDs and also buying links for lots more strip I have tested:
👉 Addressable LED strip buying guide: quinled.info/2019/06/03/what-...
👉 Best High Quality LED strips I like to use: quinled.info/2018/08/23/my-fav...
👉 Tools and Equipment used during the video: quinled.info/2018/10/01/tools-...
░▒▓[Associated blog post & Mentioned in the video]▓▒░
LED Power measurement charts: quinled.info/2020/03/12/digit...
░▒▓[Music]▓▒░
Intro&Outro
TheFatRat - Xenogenesis
( • TheFatRat - Xenogenesi... )
During Video
Ikson - Stardust
( • #72 Stardust (Official) ) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Just to clarify, I don't recommend running these LED strips at 24v! But in testing the BTF2815 did show better properties vs the original WS2815. So in a varying voltage environment (a car for instance) I would prefer it above the original! I would opt to use the clones in the future just because they behaved so well, where just as bright (if not slightly brighter) and well, they are cheaper!👍
Where do you get clones from. Can the 12v strips be used with a SP107E???
I put accidentally BTF,s 5V sk6812 RGBW on 12V for about 30 mins and it still works fine after that! Quite impressive
I love what you’re doing with the channel 💚 this test was awesome for those super interested in addressable LEDs 🙏
Excellent video, glad you didn't need the fire extinguisher. The over protection and lack of heat would be my go to strip. Seems like a better option for safety.
Wonderful video. Informative. Thanks!
Great test, thanks.
Safety wise the BTF version could be a fire hazard, unless you have guaranteed overvoltage protection somewhere else on the circuit.
Awesome. Thanks for share. This is great.
Great video! Please compare more addressable LEDs side by side! APA102 vs HD107S? Subbed.
Can you show a heat dissipation comparison at standard voltage and under-volted for both? We're trying to cram 800w of these into a 2m polycarbonate tube and need as little heat / power loss as possible when driving them with 18650 packs outputting 10.8-12.6v.
Nice video!
what a fun video... love it
I want to possibly buy a quinled but i'm having difficulty figuring out how the power supply should be connected or how many meters are supported per board. I want to DIY runs along my ceiling for my room.
Hi, I want to use wled with my ws2815 5 meter led/m 60 leds. Can I use just jumper as wire or do I need 18 awg wire to connect ESP32+ power supply+ 12v to 5v converter + ws2815
That PS is almost as crappy as my used HP single 0-30V E3640A that I had to change the fan and scrounge the handle and bumpers. I'm sure it's way out of cal, so I bought a precision voltage source and a Fluke 289. 😂
Just need a microohmmeter now. Oh wait, those are $1k. 😭
it would have been nice to try some sk6812
Is it possible that the WS2815 starts to drop out around 18 volts because of the difference in the VCC and the Din voltage (similar to trying to run WS2811b directly from the 3v3 GPIO pins)?
Not sure, could be but on the other hand later LEDs in the chain would still display some data so dat was still making it through basically. Looked more like some form of over voltage protection to me.
I will be glad if you can reply urgently. I bought WS2815 led strip. I wanted to test it with the 12volt output (12.5A) transformer I have. I connected the red and white ends of the strip led to the plus and minus outputs of the transformer, but it did not light up. I will get the ESP 32 i microprocessor later. My goal is to pre-test. how do i do this.
Did I make a wrong connection? Or are the led strips faulty?
Addressable LEDs will do nothing without data so get yourself something that can send the data to the LEDs, then you can test. :)
Great video! Wouldn't running a long strip at higher voltage help with voltage drop-off? I'm betting that at 18v would probably do fairly well with these more tolerant LEDs over longer runs.
I was thinking the same. How much longer of a run can the 24v strips do without power injection?
Well yes, but all that extra voltage is going to need to be burned off. So while they are more tolerant to it, heat is still the no1 cause of LED death. So every extra volt you feed it, will mean your cooling will need to be that much better. So I'm not sure I'd recommend that, at all...
True that you can do longer without injection, but the strip will burn itself up in no time like that. There are special 24v strips, but those are only addressable per 6 LEDs to deal with this issue.
Okay thanks for the info....im still planning to outline my home roof line, but the extra wiring is what has held me back....so this won't help me. Don't want to put up anything that's thing to burn out quickly.
@@silfa718 Well, there is official 24v strip which would make wiring easier for sure, but those are only addressable per 6 LEDs! :( Other then that, it's 12v and injection every ~150 LEDs or so.
Can you explain why the amperage in the timelapse at 24 volt drops from 1A to 0,5A?
In theory double the voltage requires half the Amps, but in this case, you really shouldn't trust what that bench power supply is saying, it's quite bad and I always just check with my multimeter.
I currently have issues with BTF2815 flickering, while my WS2815 do not. Both are driven via the dig-uno, and I've swapped them around just to be sure. I'm not a fan, even with the claimed better specs, they don't seem worth the risk.
Interesting! Haven't seen any of that in my testing. How are you two datalines connected, did you connect both to the same output in?
Good question. I used WLED so there is nothing set for the second output, so I assume it's open. I've tried driving both with the same output with unpredictable result, but that was directly off a D1 mini gpio
That data sheet has some interesting Chinese to English translation. I think they are saying the BTF version runs cooler than the standard version.
It will certainly be a very interesting thing if these do last the test of time. I noticed they have quoted 12 hours continuous at one time. I wonder how they will go if you run them longer.
The BTF strip definitely looks brighter and maybe even cleaner colour than the WS version. It would be nice to see them with the correct colour order. I don't think it passes the heat test for me though.
Yeah, I haven't tested them for that long yet, but those BTF2815's do seem to make an interesting and cheaper alternative!
@@IntermitTech I am not sure about how hot the BTF version runs though. I might be tempted to stick to WS2815's. How hot does the BTF2815 run when it is run at just 12 to 15V ?
From your side, how did the colour look on the BTF? Sometimes it's hard to tell on camera.
@@EsotericArctos Colors look the same to my eye and what they say is true, running at the normal voltage the BTF2815s run slightly cooler. I think they use a more sophisticated voltage regulation method, that's why they can also cope with the higher voltage. My feeling about them is quite good. :)
@@IntermitTech That is good news. I might give them a try as 12V replacements, Not sure I like the 100 degree heat at 24V. That would seriously reduce the life of the LED's.
Thanks for all the advice, as always. Looks like another winner for BTF lighting. They have become one of my favourite Chinese LED suppliers.
@@EsotericArctos Yeah, BTF has been doing good. But don't get my video wrong, I certainly don't recommend running them at 24v, they get really hot as you could see. ;)
Hi,
Which is the data high level voltage for ws2815?? It is 5 volts or 12v ? Thanks
Data signal is always 5v, no matter the strip voltage
@@IntermitTech Bro, I fix it, I put a resistor between ESP data output and WS2815 DATA INPUT.
The problem was that i had to use a potenciometer to regulate the Resistor, because every WS2815 has difference level of signals
is it possible the difference between line voltage and data line voltage is causing the data to not be recognized.
maybe try shifting the data line to 8v or 12v.
Maybe, but the LEDs will burn up quite quickly anyway, so even if you could fix that part, still won't make it a viable solution
So basically if I were to put a lot of BTF2815's next to eachother and run them at 24v, I could use them to fry an egg?
Hahaha, maybe for a little bit, but I doubt it would survive for very long like that, even if cooled with an aluminium profile ;)
Just to re-state, this video does not mean you should run BTF2815 at 24v, just that it doesn't die instantly.
aliexpress don't take paypal - just credit card. Is this safe ?
I've done over 500 orders, Aliexpress is safe, just put some common sense into what you decide to buy and then it's generally a great experience.
Note to self: Boil water with BTF2815
Lol, nice
Run the 24v test for 48 hours
I currently don't have the facilities for that. But I think it's been shown that it wouldn't be good for them. No1 cause of death to LEDs is heat as hot as they got, they'll be dead in days!
@@IntermitTech Yes, that is what I was hoping you would prove. If you can let them run longer, until they do die, then you can for sure say it will not work. Also, it may be worth testing in a real situation with proper cooling/heat dissipation.
thank you for the video. Your power supply is funny. If you select a new one, and get it, please do a review on it.
i been trying to find out if my 24v leds 5 meter strip 300 leds rgbw 4 wire ,can run on 27 to 28 volt of my offgrid lithum lipo4s direct or will i need a 24volt regulator
Are we talking analog or digital? Analog might just run a bit hotter but if cooled and not run at 100% will likely survive.
Digital can be a bit more sensitive and might only suffer from the same as above, or just die.
So test and see, or, use buck converter to be sure.
The title should've been saying "A c*appy PSU | Will it burn?" really