It's a decoupling cap. Since both are in parallel you could measure the first one. If it's fore instance around 100nF, you take about 1nF or bit less for the second. If the first one is 1nF or less, you take 10 to 100nF for the second. If it works 100% stable without : never mind until it breaks again. These are just educated guesses. It's usually mentioned in the datasheet of the chip which cap to use.
I'd put something there even if its wrong value. It could work now but be on the edge for temperature or voltage. 10nF would be a safe addition regardless of the other cap's value.
Nice work, the caps are called blocking caps usually they are used to block high freq noise and stabilizing voltage placed in the very near of the ICs.(between source + and source gnd) there are 2 in parallel or even more because each one (value) would resonante with different freq. for filtering the noise. there are two main points with smd caps. 1st size matter: that means this is either 1nf or max 10nf because of its size which you will see when your caps arrive. 2nd is that although those caps are very important for the design, but you can just as easily run the device without them at all or put something similar in size. one last tip you can put 2 or 3 different value of caps on top of each other if you are not sure of the value. there are usually about 2 values of smd caps of the same size max.
Perfect, great advice and tips, never thought about stacking the SMD caps to make up the correct capacitance. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Nice one :-)
I've never heard caps across a power supply called blocking caps before. To me "blocking capacitor" means something that is there to eliminate the DC bias from an AC signal--often in audio circuitry as DC bias across a speaker will just cause heat and wear your speaker coil out. Also because the input of an amplifier stage often needs a specific DC bias different from the signal source. Caps across power rails come in three main flavors: 1. Bypass or decoupling capacitors--usually placed close to a digital chip (or any chip or load that draws current in repeated short bursts) to short out the high frequency components of the current draw, thus avoiding the noise coupling into other devices on the rail and also avoiding creating radio interference (EMI). 2. Input filter capacitors--usually used where power goes into a board to filter out any noise that may be on the power coming in from a relatively long lead or wiring harness. 3. Bulk (or storage or reservoir) capacitors, usually placed at the output of a power converter or power supply to stabilize and smooth out its output. Most important with switching regulators but also useful for linear regulators as they may not react fast enough to changing current draw.
If there are two caps right next to each other in parallel of the same physical size you can probably bet they're the same value. They most likely do this for one of two reasons: 1. Easier or cheaper to get two smaller caps than one big cap with the specifications they need (ESR, size, voltage rating, etc) 2. In general when you're mass-producing electronics you want to minimize the number of different parts you deal with for the sake of making inventory and purchasing easier. So instead of adding a new value of cap they just stick two that they're already using in parallel.
@@Mymatevince it's also very common to have big-little pairs of caps in parallel. The most well-known circumstance is a smaller ceramic cap in parallel with a larger electrolytic. Electrolytics can pack more capacitance, but ceramics have much lower inductance and resistance, so by putting the two in parallel you can get the benefits of both. It's also not unusual to see a big ceramic in parallel with a smaller ceramic. I'm less sure of the reason for this but one thing that comes to mind is that the smaller ceramic can fit in much closer to the load, which at very high frequencies could make a significant difference. In these circumstances the two capacitors will be different physical sizes and/or shapes, so not what you're seeing here.
I got my flux from CPC but I can't find it anymore. Apparently there are a lot of fakes online (so I have been told) so I wanted to get it from a bigger company. I want to get some more as this is half empty but I couldn't find any of the big UK companies (Farnell/RS/CPC) selling it. I will have to keep looking or take my chances on eBay. The other 2 controllers looked different on the inside and the batteries looked cheap. If you watch the PART 2 video then you will see some other clues at the end of the video. The moulding can look different etc.
My Mate VINCE thanks you vince I’ve been watching your videos and love them. Watching your videos got me into trying to repair Xbox one controllers and lucky I’m doing well with them but PS4 controllers I find a little bit more tricky. Keep up the great job with videos and thanks again
It worked on the laptop but I don't know about working on the PS4. My guess would be that the rest of the controller would still work but that is only a guess :-)
hello My ps4 controller does not charge the battery when I connect it to the console, but the charging sign appears. I have recently replaced the battery. Where can the problem come from?
I seriously want you to do a fix on my 24" Technika TV. Obviously i want it back once fixed and i'll happily pay all P&P plus more for the job. I've not been subbed too long. If you can make a video out of it though it would be awesome for me to see what you did while fixing it.. I love your video's
I fix the same problem last month: www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44548.new.html Its an association with 100nF and 1.5uf.The same values if compare with C3 and C4.
It's a decoupling cap. Since both are in parallel you could measure the first one. If it's fore instance around 100nF, you take about 1nF or bit less for the second. If the first one is 1nF or less, you take 10 to 100nF for the second. If it works 100% stable without : never mind until it breaks again. These are just educated guesses. It's usually mentioned in the datasheet of the chip which cap to use.
I'd put something there even if its wrong value. It could work now but be on the edge for temperature or voltage. 10nF would be a safe addition regardless of the other cap's value.
Nice work, the caps are called blocking caps usually they are used to block high freq noise and stabilizing voltage placed in the very near of the ICs.(between source + and source gnd) there are 2 in parallel or even more because each one (value) would resonante with different freq. for filtering the noise. there are two main points with smd caps. 1st size matter: that means this is either 1nf or max 10nf because of its size which you will see when your caps arrive. 2nd is that although those caps are very important for the design, but you can just as easily run the device without them at all or put something similar in size. one last tip you can put 2 or 3 different value of caps on top of each other if you are not sure of the value. there are usually about 2 values of smd caps of the same size max.
Perfect, great advice and tips, never thought about stacking the SMD caps to make up the correct capacitance. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Nice one :-)
I've never heard caps across a power supply called blocking caps before. To me "blocking capacitor" means something that is there to eliminate the DC bias from an AC signal--often in audio circuitry as DC bias across a speaker will just cause heat and wear your speaker coil out. Also because the input of an amplifier stage often needs a specific DC bias different from the signal source.
Caps across power rails come in three main flavors:
1. Bypass or decoupling capacitors--usually placed close to a digital chip (or any chip or load that draws current in repeated short bursts) to short out the high frequency components of the current draw, thus avoiding the noise coupling into other devices on the rail and also avoiding creating radio interference (EMI).
2. Input filter capacitors--usually used where power goes into a board to filter out any noise that may be on the power coming in from a relatively long lead or wiring harness.
3. Bulk (or storage or reservoir) capacitors, usually placed at the output of a power converter or power supply to stabilize and smooth out its output. Most important with switching regulators but also useful for linear regulators as they may not react fast enough to changing current draw.
Can we replace the ic chip
Love your videos mate!!, I'm currently very sick and you make me feel better with your awesome clean and detailed content.
Thanks mate, I hope you are feeling better soon. Best wishes to you :-)
@@Mymatevince appreciated :)
Nice one my guy. Please where can I buy power ic for ps4 and ps5 pad
If there are two caps right next to each other in parallel of the same physical size you can probably bet they're the same value.
They most likely do this for one of two reasons:
1. Easier or cheaper to get two smaller caps than one big cap with the specifications they need (ESR, size, voltage rating, etc)
2. In general when you're mass-producing electronics you want to minimize the number of different parts you deal with for the sake of making inventory and purchasing easier. So instead of adding a new value of cap they just stick two that they're already using in parallel.
Thanks RFMerrill, that makes a lot of sense :-)
@@Mymatevince it's also very common to have big-little pairs of caps in parallel.
The most well-known circumstance is a smaller ceramic cap in parallel with a larger electrolytic. Electrolytics can pack more capacitance, but ceramics have much lower inductance and resistance, so by putting the two in parallel you can get the benefits of both.
It's also not unusual to see a big ceramic in parallel with a smaller ceramic. I'm less sure of the reason for this but one thing that comes to mind is that the smaller ceramic can fit in much closer to the load, which at very high frequencies could make a significant difference.
In these circumstances the two capacitors will be different physical sizes and/or shapes, so not what you're seeing here.
Great work as always vince just wondering where you get your flux from and how did you know the other 2 controllers were not genuine
I got my flux from CPC but I can't find it anymore. Apparently there are a lot of fakes online (so I have been told) so I wanted to get it from a bigger company. I want to get some more as this is half empty but I couldn't find any of the big UK companies (Farnell/RS/CPC) selling it. I will have to keep looking or take my chances on eBay. The other 2 controllers looked different on the inside and the batteries looked cheap. If you watch the PART 2 video then you will see some other clues at the end of the video. The moulding can look different etc.
@@Mymatevince ChipQuik is a reputable brand and digikey sell their liquid flux at a pretty reasonable price both in pen and bottle form.
My Mate VINCE thanks you vince I’ve been watching your videos and love them.
Watching your videos got me into trying to repair Xbox one controllers and lucky I’m doing well with them but PS4 controllers I find a little bit more tricky.
Keep up the great job with videos and thanks again
my controller drains the battery in a week, and recharges extremely slowly, it's the same with another battery, is it a tired capacitor?
Did the controller work without connecting the touchpad? Or does it not function without it?
It worked on the laptop but I don't know about working on the PS4. My guess would be that the rest of the controller would still work but that is only a guess :-)
whats is the laptop model you're using? :)
Please tell me, what is that mini pc you use in the video?
I want one..hehe
Hey anyone tell me what Vince use to see how the left analog stick doesn’t work and what he uses to clean the electronics. Thanks
Mine has ghe same problem. On mine. Id you charge it from the EXT port, itll turn on, but that chip will get extremely hott.
hello
My ps4 controller does not charge the battery when I connect it to the console, but the charging sign appears. I have recently replaced the battery. Where can the problem come from?
Same problem
You might want to work in a box. So when the components go ping they cant escape far.
I seriously want you to do a fix on my 24" Technika TV. Obviously i want it back once fixed and i'll happily pay all P&P plus more for the job. I've not been subbed too long. If you can make a video out of it though it would be awesome for me to see what you did while fixing it.. I love your video's
Really enjoyed it. 👍
I have a broken PS4 controller still works but has a missing L1 lever
What is the tiny pc he is using
GPD Pocket
@@WSAD08 thank you
Naw only a short version, meh.. I dropped a like anyway Vince..
WAIT!!!! I just got notified of the long version Hubba-Hubba-HUBBA..
I need to fix a ps4 controller cuz when i use it presses R2 and i dont know why.
This is gotten for free so yeah
Hi Vince I just want to say say that you make a lot of effort in your videos but you should make your thumbnails and titles
plz more videos fixing ps4 controllers
Or ditch the touch pad.
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I fix the same problem last month: www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44548.new.html
Its an association with 100nF and 1.5uf.The same values if compare with C3 and C4.
next time use a thermal camera dude.
Too many ads...
1st
8.666 oms devils number
This is great TH-cam, 61 likes, 6 comments, and one view!😂😂😂😂
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