How to Ascend a Rope During a Rappel
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.ย. 2022
- This video shows how to ascend a rope from a rappel. This is a key skill in multipitch and single pitch scenarios where someone needs to go up and down a rope. This can be useful in all sorts of rock climbing scenarios.
#rockclimbing #rappelling #ascending - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This is a very important skill, and I’ve been practicing it ever since I missed my first multi-pitch rappel anchor - whoops! Luckily I was on an easy route and in a spot with very little consequences as the time, but I am so happy I know this now and practice it often for more demanding terrain.
Definitely a technique you want to have for mp
Great video. Thanks for making it. There aren’t a lot of concise, simple and well made videos addressing this process. A couple of years back I started to learn more about self rescue. Even as a newer climber, I think having this as an extra tool in the toolbox is invaluable. Your exact process is what I’ve found works for me. Takes the least amount of strength, especially with that re-direct. Uses gear that you most likely will have on you.
One thing I have yet to see addressed in print or video is, seconding a trad route and then switching to ascending the rope. No ascenders, no boinking, cant swing, can’t lower, your belayer, for some strange reason, can’t do a 3:1 and also uses minimal physical exertion. Why would you ever be in that situation.??? Well we all know strange things can happen...... falling on overhanging traverses while cleaning gear, dangling away from the wall, tired, the weather turns bad or you just need to get back on the wall ASAP and “cheat” your way up. It’s basically the same process as this video shows, but the first step is a little tricky because you need to create a loop of rope large enough so you can put your atc on. I’ve pieced together concepts/bits from Coley/Kirkpatrick book “High” and various guide/alpine self rescue videos. Practiced and found what works and even thought about making a video, but who am I ? Nowadays it’s much more acceptable for a certified guide to pass on these techniques, so if you ever feel so inclined to make a video on it.....please do.
I know I’m not the only who has asked about this.....I think self rescue is a skill that a lot of climbers really have a gap in their knowledge about. It’s not always about using brute strength, but knowing how to use the gear you have on you to solve a problem. Sorry for the long comment.
Cool, yeah, there are a few multipitch rescue/escape maneuvers I want to cover on some subsequent videos. This is a good topic.
If you don’t have a 2nd prusik/hollow block cord, you can always just directly tie a prusik with the 120cm sling! Then you can start ascending like that or even better switch it out for the prusik cord that you were using for the rappel backup.
I’ve had to do this before. It sucked, but I was happy I had the knowledge in how to do it.
Useful and simple technique! Don't forget to relock your carabiner after going back to rappel mode.
The rappel lime through the prussik carabiner was genius thank you bro!
Awesome video as always!
These videos just keep getting better and better! Cheers from Nova Scotia 🇨🇦
Thanks!!!
Thank you so much. This was really helpful. I was really struggling to figure out how to switch between the two after learning how to ascend!
Thank you very much for this. It was not so convenient to pull rope (up) through the ATC while ascending. Having watched this technique of running it through the carabineer and pulling it down makes more sense!
Also way easier
Really really like your teaching style! very clear and informative!
Thanks!!!
Great video!
Awesome. Much appreciated :)
Hey Jason, thanks for these videos! Just want to clear up a misunderstanding that I've seen on other videos on this or a similar technique: The mechanical advantage you're getting is not a 3:1 as many people seem to think, but a 2:1 with a redirect (counting the tensions will confirm this). As you're essentially on a drop loop (the pulley/ATC etc. being on the load and not the anchor), you're unable to get a 3:1 - you'll generally have systems with even numbers when the pulley/ATC is at the load and odd numbers when it's at the anchor.
What I think is confusing people is that in a standard 3:1, you also have just 1 pulley moving towards the anchor. However, the placement of the pulley (anchor vs. the load) makes all the difference when you're counting out your mechanical advantage.
I realize you know all of this of course, but I just wanted to leave it here if people were wondering. Thanks again for taking the time to create these great tutorials!
We had a big debate in my Rock Guide Course on this point and I was adamant on 2:1... eventually the group was persuaded and the universe was aligned. Thanks for the comment and compliment!
Great video Jason! Super simple system and uses things your normally have on your harness anyway.
I use this method a lot when I trs, but that's always single line and on a grigri. Would never have thought to switch an atc to guide mode and do the same thing! Might have done it a time or two with an atc that wasn't in guide mode 😅
Definitely keeping this one in my back pocket!
For sure. on multi rap descents, you definitely want this one in your back pocket.
Nice one!
That's pretty cool to see it done with a reverso. Way easier with a grigri though.
For sure, this would only be for a double rope rap switch up application.
thanks
Thanks, very clean video. I wonder if it is possible to use a Kong Duck device instead of a leg loop prusic?
My only change to this would be to girth hitch the sling to the top prusik, then the carabiner is completely free to run the ropes through, rope under some tension rubbing on the tensioned footloop sling won't do it much good, and it could be scrap after just one session attempting this. Good technique though, I tried it in the gym (ropes already in place) but they were just too fat and fluffy to run through the DMM pivot nicely. Amazing how many comments you get even from older generation climbers about prusiks, and how 'we used to use those in the good old days...' Anyone not carrying at least 2 please read 'Touching the Void'.
I had to ascend the rope for the first time when I couldn’t find a station yesterday 😅. It was very hard to pull rope through the reverso. I’ll definitely keep your redirect trick in mind for next time. Do you know of any auto block devices that are easier to ascend double rope raps on?
Man I wish I saw this video before buying the nano traction hahaha
Don't worry man, I own a nano traction too... so much faster
Quick question on this, why did you remove your third hand? To my mind the third hand gives you a better backup because you can bring it with you and not fall as far. Since you're running the rope back up through the carabiner on the klemheist, it keeps the correct direction of tension for the ATC. It also gives you an extra point of contact on the rope since you're not clipped in to your catastrophe knot. If you have a misclip or fail to lock the carabiner keeping you in guide mode, you're back in belay/rappel mode with your brake strand running up instead of down, freefalling until you hit that catastrophe knot.
Is there a reason for this that I'm not seeing?
I’d practice it with the prusik still on and you’ll see that there’s is just too much stuff jumbled up around there where your trying to pull rope through to be practical. The extra prusik is unnecessary when in plaquette mode and just establishing backup knots.
Okay, I guess my followup question is about a second point of contact. Would you just clip in to your catastrophe knot and keep moving it up if you had a longer distance to ascend?
Man thats alotta stuff you gotta do just to go back up.
ha... it's definitely not ideal
I assume this can't be done with a BD ATC-XP BELAY/RAPPEL DEVICE ?
You are correct, you need the ATC guide
3.30 frottement corde/sangle = danger !!!