Is This Really NECESSARY??? 4x4 Swap Begins
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Its BIG support if you go get some MERCH! rudysadventure...
It’s time for the 2wd Comanche to be converted into four-wheel-drive. I’m getting the donor axles from a 1996 jeep Cherokee that does not start. Although these are small axles it will make a huge difference in the off-road capabilities.
We first pull the axles out of the donor jeep, and then we pull the axles out of the Comanche. and I still haven’t fixed the door…
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The rear brake proportioning valve is necessary on pickup trucks because when there is no weight in the bed the rear tires would be more prone to locking up during hard braking. That valve will give more brakes to the rear tires as the suspension gets more compressed. If you lift the rear you should also add an extension to the valve so it still operates properly.
I had a Datsun ute with the proportioning valve not functioning properly. Tokyo drift in the rain every time!
Also known as load sensor.
Exactly right. mine was missing on my 88. Got one or on it after an accident.
Can you just put a manual one in? On our RV its what they recommend.
What he said
It's so refreshing to see someone working old school, with a floor jack and jackstands! I never had a lift and really appreciate someone who works well without one. Love your channel! How about an update on your little brother's truck?
Painful to watch having no lift, then a lift, then no lift again.
@@UberLummox Then don't watch. Not everyone starts out by buying a 10K+ hoist. Rudy is still just getting started, and I am sure he will be bigger in the future. I enjoy his content, that is why I watch.
Check out Pine Hollow Diagnostics. He does repairs with no lift also.
I have access to a lift after helping a friend's father build his garage, and it's a complete life changer for the simple things. I still crawl on the ground to work on my own vehicles since I've always had a vehicle with a high wheelbase, but I also maintain my mother's car with a low wheelbase, and I love having enough space to see what I'm doing while changing her oil filter, or even just not being kneeling in the snow when I'm putting on her studded tires for the winter.
@@Bobbywolf64 Haha seriously??? It wasn't a complaint!!! And you can by a lift for FARRRR less than 10 grand, silly trumper.
@Rudys Adventure and Design BE SURE TO MOVE THE SPRING PERCHES! You mentioned mounting the XJ rear axle under the springs to lift so I wanted to mention you absolutely need to move the spring perches, the springs will sit down and bolt up on the XJ ones but they are about 1"-2" off and will bind like crazy. Many people have attempted it and it doesn't work. If you do lift in this way, after moving the perches, simply turn the lower shock mount/spring plates over and switch sides to bolt your springs on and maintain the shock mount, you can also continue to use the factory rear shocks by doing this.
Also as many have mentioned already that brake "thing" is a rear proportioning valve. As weight is loaded in the bed it will add brake pressure to the rear brakes and give you less brake pressure when empty to avoid locking up the rear tires. There is a small metal rod that bolts to the diff cover and that arm you were moving. I would recommend keeping this if you plan to haul stuff with it but be sure to test to make sure the valve is still working. I'd post the procedure here but it would be too long. You can also bypass it if you'd like but I would only recommend to do that if you swap it to disk brakes or add a manually adjustable valve somewhere, I'm definitely not practicing what I preach here though.
3rd, it seems you figured out how to release the spare tire but for others interested, there is a tube in the gap between the tailgate and the bumper you stick the factory tire iron into and turn it to release the tire. It's basically a winch mechanism, and if you aren't going to use it, there are definitely people who would want a working one. Really any MJ specific part is quite valuable and hard to find so don't throw any of it out even if its broken.
I'm sure you've already found it but find the Comanche Club forum online, plenty of good resources there and us Comanche guys are always sharing info and answering questions. Also a great place to buy and sell parts to other MJ owners.
P.S. Also be sure to use the XJ coil springs, the 4wd coil springs will sit the front end about 1" taller than the 2wd ones.
Thanks for saving me from having to type that, Dzimm!
I love the helpful knowledge Dakota 👍🏽 Good stuff!
This guy Comanches
Awesome input!
I think all the Comanche owners are watching this
I Always remember hearing Vice Grip Garage say, "make sure to leave the jack under the vehicle, makes it easier to lift the vehicle back off when the first responders show up", especially seeing you use Harbor Freight jack stands like the rest of us "budget builders". Lol
Some of H/Fs stuff is junk, but the jack stands are good. I have a few H/F tools, and if they ever fail, I will then replace them with a higher end tool. Case in point--------4.5" angle head grinder. The tool worked fine, but it fell off of the work bench and then broke in half when it hit the floor. Replaced it with 2 DeWalt. One has a cut-off wheel, (wheel of death), the other one has a flap wheel made by Tacoma fastener company. Beats H/F flap wheels hands down.
The other replaced H/F tool was a 14" cut-off chop saw. All of the factory installed smoke came out of it. Replaced it with a DeWalt 15 years ago. Works good to this day. I have only broken one socket, and I had a 3 foot cheater over a 24" breaker bar to do that. I will not blame the socket for that. All of the rest of my sockets work just as well as my Snap On sockets, even the impact wobble sockets.
I use to use 1/4" air grinders a lot in my job as a field mechanic for Cat. You could get them on sale for $12 a few years ago. The Snap On dealer one time asked me why I did not buy a Snap On 1/4" die grinder? He said that his air grinders could be rebuilt. I asked how much the rebuild kit cost? He replied with a smirk, "$20." I told him that I could get a whole new die grinder for $12 in sale. That pissed him off! LOL I had 4 of them just so I did not need to change the carbides so much.
With all of this civil revolt going on in China, the cheap H/F tools may come to an end. I was in a H/F store yesterday, and some of the prices have doubled.
"This (brake clip) was rusted on."
Those are fighting words in the rust belt states. When it comes off in one piece or comes off at all, that's not "rusted on".
The valve on the back is commonly called load-sensing or height sensing valve. It shifts braking bias backwards as the suspension squats, so as you add load to the rear it increases rear braking. The bar in the valve should roughly be in the 2 o'clock position at regular ride height, so you'll want to extend the rod that goes down to the axle after you lift it.
There's also a bypass for the valve that sends full brake pressure to the rear if you have a leak up front which takes an extra bleeding step. Open a front brake bleeder while you bleed the rear (to simulate a pressure failure) and then close the front bleeder, bleed the rear again and then fronts as you would any other vehicle.
Should we mention the difference in proportioning valves in the engine bay
NGL, it hurt a little bit seeing that complete, rust free '96 XJ turn into donor.
I know what you mean, the blue jeep is not able to be titled though
@@Rudysadventureanddesignreal I will buy the passenger's side light bezel, blinker cover and fancy tach instrument cluster if you need to take some weight off of that sea land trailer. A deer modified mine....
@@Rudysadventureanddesignreal That makes perfect sense then. Carry on!
@@Rudysadventureanddesignreal what happened to it?
Not having all the right gizmos and gadgets and still getting it done............perfect. I love your show Rudy! 🤙
Love the channel Rudy and that you are doing your own thing. One suggestion, my grandfather was a mechanic and I've now been working on cars and trucks for 50 years. He taught me to always put the tire I removed under the frame rail in case of jack or stand failure so I've been doing it ever since. Cheers!
@Rudys Adventure and Design @ 14:10 that is probably a mechanical brake force adjuster - there are spring loaded valves inside that in normal condition are not all the way open and the flow of brake fluid is restricted. If there is heavier load at the back of the car the axle gets closer to the frame, the lever moves and pushes the valves so that the flow gets less restricted.
That piece on the rear that you were questioning is most likely a brake proportioning valve. My Tacoma has one from the factory. When you lift the truck you will need to put a spacer of some sort to get the valve to work correctly. My lift had on in it from the kit factory, but since I’ve “modified” my lift I had to do the same to the spacer.
Hey Randy we have watched Matt for a while & when we saw you go out on your own I thought we would see how you do things & I must say I’m impressed. Your videos are not too long & spun out like many, you explain stuff without going overboard, you know when to fast forward repetitive tasks and your music isn’t crap. In a nutshell you are doing very well so keep up the good work & this New Zealander will certainly keep following you. 👍👏👏👏👏
that thingy you don't know is a proportioning valve the more weight you have in the back the more rear brakes you get its to prevent constant locking up of the rear wheels when unloaded or at least thats what i was told
Rudy, this is one heck of a DIY video; you're taking a lot of time (sort of) to like help a first timer. One. Haynes or Chilton? Two, you got to show the secret trick: 'hit the nearest hard thing first to skin a knuckle to save your knuckles from gouges later' part. At least that was my secret back in my day.
Here - Hard copy Chilton and Haynes online.
MJ is one of my favourites so it is great fun watching you rebuild and improve it. Thanks for the videos, Rudy.
I really appreciate how everything your video is about is complete in the single video. A lot of car channels do the whole cliffhanger thing and make it a 12 part series when it doesnt have to be. Keep up the great work man, really enjoying the vids.
Lever is a brake proportioning valve. More weight in the rear end allows more brake fluid/force to the rear brakes. When empty less brake force to the rear brakes don't lock up.
If Mr. Roger's was a mechanic. Rudy's video have that same calming affect
MJ owners coming outta the woodwork! I love it!
Jack stands and floor jacks. Lots of memories doing that back in the 60s. It always did the job. Thanks for the video! Good job!
Good work Rudy can't wait for the finished product. Loved your transport to the outside with the engine lift. Take it up Toquerville with flashbacks of the first trip with only two-wheel drive. I'm impressed with all the good help from your fans. I've done a lot of four wheeling in a two-wheel drive, but it's just a matter of time before the two-wheel drive gets ruined on a four-wheel drive trail. There is really no such thing as four-wheeling in a two-wheel drive.
My daughter and I both have lifted 2 wheel drive trucks, we don’t do any extreme off roading but they are fun just the same . Someday we will install winch’s and get a little more daring.
Great video! Can't wait to see how this all goes. Watching all the other channels only see 1 ton swaps and such, so really looking forward to watching this one take place. I am assuming the Cherokee had a D30 front and a 8.25 rear which is what my '99 Cherokee has so am hoping to pick up some tips and tricks 😉. Always enjoy your video's so as always, can't wait for the next.
Thanks for the video Rudy! You guys build cool stuff so Im lookin forward to the build. Good luck! Thanks to the editing department whomever that may be🐾
That was Cool saving the Mantis !
Love Rudy’s videos dude is smart nothing’s ruined if he’s working on it.
funny joke
You need to send the "Blueberry" over to your dad so that he can put 1 tons under it and add it to the "Fruit Fleet" with the Banana and Tangerine.
All hail the flat bay and a jack! Nice work. You don’t NEED a lift they make things way too easy
I believe you're going to want the rear springs from the XJ to put under the MJ so your alignment pin is on the bottom of the spring to make life easier on you all...we had to do what you all are doing on an 85 & that's what we wound up doing + then all's you have to do is buy a pair of 3" front springs or use the front springs from a ZJ (mid 80s- 90s Grand Cherokee) to obtain the 3" lift needed to level it out.... Can't wait to see what you all wind up doing with it 🤠👍
That is a load adjusting proportioning valve. It adjusts the amount of fluid feeding the rear wheel cylinders depending on load in the bed.
They always quit working.
That parts Cherokee sure looks nice
Awesome Rudy!!!
That is a rear brake portioning valve. It increases rear brake effort as the bed is loaded and the truck squats, and keeps the rear brakes from locking up if the truck is unloaded and light in the rear.
Ohio here ! winter kills our trucks and cars would love to have something that clean to work on. Loving your channel someone said old school and that is what we do takes a little longer but we get it done. have to use what you have.
My grandpa had one of these in red. Had that thing forever. I’d love to have one of those
Nice to see that truck getting a new life and with 4WD.
The brake thing in the back I believe is a type of brake bias deal. The weight in the back changes bias. If I remember correctly.
I was not aware the 2 wheel drive Jeeps from that age had a solid front axle. I learned something new today.
Yep, it's pretty much a direct swap with a driven front axle. Comanches and Cherokees are about the easiest 2x4 to 4x4 swap vehicles in existence.
Axle on the bottom of springs. Drive angle will change, Tail shaft might have to be longer ? , stroke on shockers myl be different. proportioning vale on brake line may need adjusting, sway bar links will have to be longer or drop rail monts by thickness of the springs. Hope this helps keep going loads of FUN.
Hey Rudy, Wayne from Cape Town, South Africa, we call that a load senser here, it is connected to the braking system, and assists when load is utilized.
Holly loves that you are wearing one of her shirts, Colin. Looks good.
It's kind of doing it the hard way. Comanche and Cherokee came down the same assembly line. Unplug the harness, lift the Cherokee body off the frame, do any motor and trans parts swapping, then mount Comanche to the frame that was already 4-wheel drive.
What frame? Pulling the axles off like this is as far "off the frame' is as it gets lol. These jeeps utilize a un structure that is literally welded to it.
Somethimes there is a pressure adjuster. The lever is atached to the shaft. More weight opens up an orivice giving more oil to the brakes. You lifted it and it nearly went backward. With no weight in the back the backtires will block easily.
The body on Blueberry looks good. I see a new build soon. The BerriCon coming soon.
Dingleberry
Agreed... was kinda sad he was tearing it apart but maybe he has plans for sticking 1-tons under it.
He said in a different comment that it can’t be titled, so it’s only useful as a donor. He didn’t say *why* it can’t be titled….
Lot easier to disconnect everything from the jeep side rather than axle side. Don’t even have to remove the tires. Just unbolt the control arms from the body and disconnect sway bars and tie rod from the pitman arm and unbolt the top of the shocks from under the hood. Then the axle is out
That is a height sensing valve when the rear of vehicle lifts its reduces hydraulic brake fluid pressure to prevent rear brakes locking up .and skidding make it adjustable and set it by trial until no rear lockup
Way to go old schooling it. Just to show it can be done with floor jacks and jackstands.
The more weight you have in the back it allows more braking force on the back axle
dont forget the transfercase and trans plus 4 x 4 linkge
This video one of your best so far. Sound quality much much better.
The Comanche was definitely geared / taliored as a "work truck" and had a good considerable payload capacity that could very a good bit empty to full. That valve measured the load and "proportioned" the brakes. Drums and disk react at different speeds as does front to rear. It was basically a crude form of traction control ish in a way. Locking up the rear could result in a spin.
Depending on the condition of the brake fluid and how long it was sitting those valves usually go bad on Comanche, and they are pretty unobtainable. As long as you have a consistent payload you should be able to swap in a manual universal valve like used on race cars/ hot rods. Or you can swap in an XJ valve and I think you modify it slightly. Or just delete it all together and use a simple 3 way block after the master. That's what I did with mine but you need to be careful locking up the rear end.
I'd love to build a Comanche. That's awesome Rudy
That would be the 27-spline Chrysler 8.25 rear axle. The 97- came with stronger 29-spline shafts. Definitely better than the Dana 35 in the Comanche. One thing I would recommend is welding the axle tubes to the pumpkin.
On second thought, it looks like your Comanche has a Dana 44, which is stronger than an 8.25, and has better aftermarket support.
My Comanche started out as a 2wd also. I swapped in an XJ 4.0 and Ax-15 and Rubicon T-case.
Take the calipers off the axle and hang them from the vehicle to avoid the brake fluid mess. I even pulled the rear drum assemblies with backing plates and hardlines off the rear axle, when I did the axle swap on my ZJ. No brake mess, no bleeding required, no messing with rusty e-brake hardware, etc. 👍
Fascinating that there was no difference between the front axles except from the moving parts ! I've never seen that. But there's close to none Comanches in my part of the world. European cars ... they always have to make something special and not interchangeable.
Don’t get mad but I’m calling you Professor Rudy going forward..The way you explained with detail, reminds me of my Engineering teacher 😎
Valve = brake proportioning valve which proportions brake system pressure front to rear depending on the rear axle ride height. Higher in rear as rear suspension drops under cargo load, lower in rear as front nose dives during hard braking etc.
As said about the load sensing proportioning valve in the back, if the rod is missing from the arm it’ll hang down and provide absolute minimum rear bias (if the valve still works at all). I pulled mine out and am replacing the distribution block by the brake master with a Wilwood manual bias unit, fresh flare/ nut on the main line to the rear (deleted the valve’s return line) plus a slightly longer rear hose/ block mounted on the axle to feed the rear brakes.
On the first obstacle of the Rubicon Trail my 88 Cherokee ripped the left front brake line off. It being close to the master cylinder, I just clamped the line off and drove the whole first day with the E brake and very little brake pedal. Fixed it at camp that night but wow a few very sketchy moments that day.
Sin Nombre = No Name.....Would be a great name for this new Jeep!
Reminds me of my 1980 f150 step side. I put a bronco front and rear axle in.
Lots of fun.
I love this series of videos, I did a similar swap with my 88 Comanche. I put a ford 8.8 rear end though
If you use pressure on the brake pedal when cutting or opening the brake lines you can stop the fluid leaking
2004-2012 Canyons and Colorados had leaf spring under axle. Swap shackles for a little lift, or swap the axle under for a little more lift.
That was a clever idea to use the forklift with the engine hoist in front to move it around. I guess your shop motto can be find a way or make one. 😉
You need to sand blast all that frame work and the front and rear sub=frame and get it raptor coated to protect it for the future. Convert it to disc brakes.
Great work Robbie. God bless you.
good job Rudy..
i got rid of my rear proportioning valve and installed a wilwood adju prop valve in the front after my 8.8 swap and its been GREAT
You seem more relaxed and genuine in this video. Great job.
It is called a Brake load sensing valve, which is important on a pickup, because it adjusts the pressure applied to rear brakes depending on the load on the back axle of pickups. Regards from South Africa
Doing great Rudy!! Looking forward to seeing you get the axle swap done and going for a test drive!! 😁
It is a weight proportion valve itt gives more pressure to rear brakes when you have a load in the back of the truck
@14:15
My ‘89 Jetta had a similar setup. It allows more rear braking power if you had more weight in the back.
Back in my hot rod days when we put the leaf springs on top of the axle we called reversing the rear end (maybe they still do) my 57 Chevy had a reversed rear end extended spindles 411 gears and 50/50 muffler lift bars, the car was fun.
I like that you have the sound (mic) working better on your video today! Cheers
Notice the rear on the truck was over leaf and under leaf on the Cherokee. The reason? On the truck the rear leaf had to be stronger and that meant more arch back then for Jeep. If they had inder axled the pick up as they did with the Cherokee, the truck would have been about 4 inches higher in the back than front. If you see some trucks from other manufacturers they have an obvious rear height difference due to this very reason, but they don't have the issue Jeep did of roll over. Jeep needed to make sure the pick up was level and fairly low for a 4x4. This is also the reasoning behind the CJ being over axle. On the CJ the leafs were so short they had to have more arch in order to create enough spring surface so it would be tolerable for passengers. Shorter leaf surface steming from shorter leafs causes extreme harshness unless you reduce spring tension strength which result in a "Wallowing" feeling that signals instability.
Enjoying watching this series since I'll have a similar project soon! Curious to see what you do with that transfercase /trans combo
And the rear end, unbolt the leaf springs and shocks from the axle and done.
Hope you can use some of the body structure to fix the driver door. Climbing out the window or passenger side will get old pretty fast. I think the little Comanche is a neat little truck. Fixing it up just a little bit will make it great. There's bound to be a ton of stuff you can do to it.
In taking out the axles you forgot to do something that I always do when I'm working with heavy parts. Mash my hand, really good. Mash it to the point that you need to edit the video. 🤕 That's always good for giving you perspective on why you need to watch where you put your hand. Take my word for it, you don't have to find out personally.
NOW THAT's a LIFTED JEEP! Nice going!
14:15 -- That's a load-sensing rear brake proportioning valve. As you add load in the bed, the bed drops, which swings the arm and that opens the proportioning valve to allow more braking force to the rear wheels. If you had full force at the rear wheels with no load in the bed, the rear wheels would always lock up long before the fronts, which creates a danger of spin-outs.
The lever above the rear axle on the Comanche is a brake load proportioning valve. It adjusts the rear brake line pressure based on the weight of the payload in the bed.
👍👍👍👍👍, That looks like a fairly cherry XJ.....
I really like your simplistic approach to running your own shop.
As I said last time you showed the Comanche I was in my 40's before I knew jeep made a 2wd, I think this will be a great upgrade
Rear brake proportioning valves are awesome. They went out of style when ABS came along, but I'm pretty convinced they helped a good bit. A pickup is a great use for one, but my VW Passat came with one, too. Definitely worth keeping.
My 89 Ford Ranger has a system that is designed to monitor the rear axle speed (sensor detects teeth of ring gear motion/speed.)
If the rate of deceleration is too fast, a valve in the rear brake line closes, hydraulic pressure downstream of this valve is released into a small accumulator.
In practice, it seemed to only work after cycling the system several times when I tested it on jack stands with the rear wheels spinning and brakes applied.
I think the simple suspension "Squat" valve is likely to be more reliable.
You'll make this Comanche a proper 4x4 Rudy can't wait to see it offroad great video thank's for sharing God bless ❤😉👍
If I were you, I would take the whole drivetrain from the blueberry, since the engine is the "high output" style, which has better performance and they fixed the overheating problems with it.
The rear brake thing hanging from the frame is a load proportioning valve it helps braking with heavy loads in the bed
Do a 4" long arm kit on the commanche, huge upgrade
Proportioning valve on rear brakes as the suspension compresses it increases the brake bias to the rears
Proportioning valve for the rear brake system will flow more or less fluid/pressure when loaded or unloaded
Brake Load level valve changes the amount of braking force in the rear depending on how compressed the suspension is
You can't forget the trans and transfer case from the cherokee as well as the drive lines
of course, it is necessary. It looks like a fun build. good editing. I like 15-30 minutes tops.
The best I can probably do is replace a door latch. Did it once on a ford electric powered trunk. My head is spinning seeing the whole axels removed! Can't wait to see how it compares when finished with 4x4 drive.
I think that is a load/weight sensitive proportioning valve for the rear brakes.... to prevent the rear brakes from locking up when there is little to no weight in the bed...... maybe???
Thats the proportioning valve . It gives you less rear break on an epty bed, and more rear break on a loaded bed. Hopefully that keeps you from swinging the rear around to the front unintentionally. Lol