Thsnks meneer. Amateurs like myself would benefit greatly from a video(s) explaining decoder installation, building and installingvthe speaker box. As you say Decoders are very expensive and blowing one is a fear very much at tbe forefront of your mind when hardwiring a decoder in olace. Thanks for the informative videos from which I learn much.
Something that I would consider doing is using a Decoder Buddy for 21-pin decoder installations also. Installations without colored wires and a detachable light connector board and well identified solder pads. It makes for a much neater installation.
From Texas, I thank you for the important lesson. I pray you’re safe in SA these days, I’d gladly send you a couple rifles and ammo but I know how insane the gun laws are there compared to hear.
That is very good advice. I have done it. It works a charm. I used a color though. I am old now. Can't see like I used to. With color I could be sure that I covered the joints properly. Thanx for your input. Cheers
Its all about making things smaller nowadays. One would think that maybe a very thin coat of insulation might do the trick. I think, they think.... we should be smart enough to know. You know the story with assumptions, right? Thanx for your comment. We must still organize a visit.
Rikus video fantastic thanks. Speaker do you and ESU close the diaphragm side of the speaker. ?? Old school leave the cone open to outside.?? Thanks sir.
I've recently switched over to ESU sound decoders for some really tiny HO narrow gauge installs and I appreciate the info you are posting here. I thought the ESU decoders were circuit protected, good to know that's not totally true. I have a question you might be able to answer with your ESU experience. Do you know how to eliminate the LED lights dimming when the decoder is running off the powerpack? Any time there is a track power interruption my headlights dim, it's super annoying. With tiny four wheel HO narrow gauge locomotives power interruptions from just about anything including dust are hard to avoid. Here's a video link that clearly shows the issue. th-cam.com/video/9PLeeGTf_HI/w-d-xo.html Thanks! -DTJ
Set the timer for the capacitor slightly longer. If that doesnt solve it, set the light output slightly lower. I have found that some LEDs are very sensitive around their maximum brightness. They react aggresively to slight voltage changes. If they are just off max they tend to be more flexible.
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 Thanks for the input, I'll give it try tonight. I am already running the LEDs at a very low output level but I have not played with the timer settings yet.
Thsnks meneer. Amateurs like myself would benefit greatly from a video(s) explaining decoder installation, building and installingvthe speaker box. As you say Decoders are very expensive and blowing one is a fear very much at tbe forefront of your mind when hardwiring a decoder in olace. Thanks for the informative videos from which I learn much.
Pleasure man. If it saves one decoder worldwide.....thats my job done lol.
I highly recommend scale sound speakers from JT Burke and Marion, Ohio, his speaker and enclosure for $14 and they really sound super🚂🚂
Something that I would consider doing is using a Decoder Buddy for 21-pin decoder installations also. Installations without colored wires and a detachable light connector board and well identified solder pads. It makes for a much neater installation.
Very Good advice..
From Texas, I thank you for the important lesson. I pray you’re safe in SA these days, I’d gladly send you a couple rifles and ammo but I know how insane the gun laws are there compared to hear.
If you paint the solder joints with clear acrylic paint it will insulate them for you.
That is very good advice. I have done it. It works a charm. I used a color though. I am old now. Can't see like I used to. With color I could be sure that I covered the joints properly. Thanx for your input. Cheers
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 My electrician friend taught me that.
Great video! You'd think the manufacturer would provide something better insulated.
Its all about making things smaller nowadays. One would think that maybe a very thin coat of insulation might do the trick. I think, they think.... we should be smart enough to know. You know the story with assumptions, right? Thanx for your comment. We must still organize a visit.
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 absolutely!
Rikus video fantastic thanks. Speaker do you and ESU close the diaphragm side of the speaker. ?? Old school leave the cone open to outside.?? Thanks sir.
It was designed to be closed diaphragm side. Other way round and it sounds flat and gutless
I've recently switched over to ESU sound decoders for some really tiny HO narrow gauge installs and I appreciate the info you are posting here. I thought the ESU decoders were circuit protected, good to know that's not totally true.
I have a question you might be able to answer with your ESU experience. Do you know how to eliminate the LED lights dimming when the decoder is running off the powerpack? Any time there is a track power interruption my headlights dim, it's super annoying. With tiny four wheel HO narrow gauge locomotives power interruptions from just about anything including dust are hard to avoid.
Here's a video link that clearly shows the issue. th-cam.com/video/9PLeeGTf_HI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! -DTJ
Set the timer for the capacitor slightly longer. If that doesnt solve it, set the light output slightly lower. I have found that some LEDs are very sensitive around their maximum brightness. They react aggresively to slight voltage changes. If they are just off max they tend to be more flexible.
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 Thanks for the input, I'll give it try tonight. I am already running the LEDs at a very low output level but I have not played with the timer settings yet.