Thsnks meneer. Amateurs like myself would benefit greatly from a video(s) explaining decoder installation, building and installingvthe speaker box. As you say Decoders are very expensive and blowing one is a fear very much at tbe forefront of your mind when hardwiring a decoder in olace. Thanks for the informative videos from which I learn much.
Something that I would consider doing is using a Decoder Buddy for 21-pin decoder installations also. Installations without colored wires and a detachable light connector board and well identified solder pads. It makes for a much neater installation.
Rikus video fantastic thanks. Speaker do you and ESU close the diaphragm side of the speaker. ?? Old school leave the cone open to outside.?? Thanks sir.
That is very good advice. I have done it. It works a charm. I used a color though. I am old now. Can't see like I used to. With color I could be sure that I covered the joints properly. Thanx for your input. Cheers
Its all about making things smaller nowadays. One would think that maybe a very thin coat of insulation might do the trick. I think, they think.... we should be smart enough to know. You know the story with assumptions, right? Thanx for your comment. We must still organize a visit.
From Texas, I thank you for the important lesson. I pray you’re safe in SA these days, I’d gladly send you a couple rifles and ammo but I know how insane the gun laws are there compared to hear.
I've recently switched over to ESU sound decoders for some really tiny HO narrow gauge installs and I appreciate the info you are posting here. I thought the ESU decoders were circuit protected, good to know that's not totally true. I have a question you might be able to answer with your ESU experience. Do you know how to eliminate the LED lights dimming when the decoder is running off the powerpack? Any time there is a track power interruption my headlights dim, it's super annoying. With tiny four wheel HO narrow gauge locomotives power interruptions from just about anything including dust are hard to avoid. Here's a video link that clearly shows the issue. th-cam.com/video/9PLeeGTf_HI/w-d-xo.html Thanks! -DTJ
Set the timer for the capacitor slightly longer. If that doesnt solve it, set the light output slightly lower. I have found that some LEDs are very sensitive around their maximum brightness. They react aggresively to slight voltage changes. If they are just off max they tend to be more flexible.
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 Thanks for the input, I'll give it try tonight. I am already running the LEDs at a very low output level but I have not played with the timer settings yet.
@@Alexander_Sth Must be why they are still the market leaders….. The day any manufacturer out there give me the same interface between myself and their decoders, I might look into it. I have installed hundreds of them. Never had a problem. If I did, without exception, it was a wiring fault. In the last 13 years, I have had three faulty decoders. All of them got replaced. Free of charge. What more can you possibly expect?
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 who told that they are market leaders? You know excactly how much decoders including in new locomotives sold last year on the market from each fabric? That is a problem that you installed hundreds of decoder and do not wait something very modern and special like me or other newcomers. You do not wait 1 cm for 2 minutes, you do not wait exponential acceleration, you do not wait automatic finding every best step of back-EMF settings, which can not get none Zimo or ESU, because it shoud have other architecture of decoders. I see the problem of market in the stagnation. Old modellers do not have some special expectation for riding, slow motion and so on, but every year they go from hobby and sells collection because many of them too old. For newcomers decoder and locomotive manufacturer still have nothing to present. Still no modern motors, no ideal easy PID-Back-EMF settings and so on. Fun that today progressive "non model" analog motor drive beat any modern decoder for slow speed.
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 i've done virtual model in Adobe Premier for acceleration with reference mark. All decoders work very very badly, because they could not achieve the same driving behaviour. 1 there are few points where they lose control over motor so it lose speed for moments like car with gearbox. 2 you can not start without jump, obviously you can, but you need to drop voltage so much and play with Back-EMF, but than you can nothing to do with middle range speed control
Thsnks meneer. Amateurs like myself would benefit greatly from a video(s) explaining decoder installation, building and installingvthe speaker box. As you say Decoders are very expensive and blowing one is a fear very much at tbe forefront of your mind when hardwiring a decoder in olace. Thanks for the informative videos from which I learn much.
Pleasure man. If it saves one decoder worldwide.....thats my job done lol.
I highly recommend scale sound speakers from JT Burke and Marion, Ohio, his speaker and enclosure for $14 and they really sound super🚂🚂
Something that I would consider doing is using a Decoder Buddy for 21-pin decoder installations also. Installations without colored wires and a detachable light connector board and well identified solder pads. It makes for a much neater installation.
Rikus video fantastic thanks. Speaker do you and ESU close the diaphragm side of the speaker. ?? Old school leave the cone open to outside.?? Thanks sir.
It was designed to be closed diaphragm side. Other way round and it sounds flat and gutless
Very Good advice..
If you paint the solder joints with clear acrylic paint it will insulate them for you.
That is very good advice. I have done it. It works a charm. I used a color though. I am old now. Can't see like I used to. With color I could be sure that I covered the joints properly. Thanx for your input. Cheers
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 My electrician friend taught me that.
Great video! You'd think the manufacturer would provide something better insulated.
Its all about making things smaller nowadays. One would think that maybe a very thin coat of insulation might do the trick. I think, they think.... we should be smart enough to know. You know the story with assumptions, right? Thanx for your comment. We must still organize a visit.
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 absolutely!
From Texas, I thank you for the important lesson. I pray you’re safe in SA these days, I’d gladly send you a couple rifles and ammo but I know how insane the gun laws are there compared to hear.
I've recently switched over to ESU sound decoders for some really tiny HO narrow gauge installs and I appreciate the info you are posting here. I thought the ESU decoders were circuit protected, good to know that's not totally true.
I have a question you might be able to answer with your ESU experience. Do you know how to eliminate the LED lights dimming when the decoder is running off the powerpack? Any time there is a track power interruption my headlights dim, it's super annoying. With tiny four wheel HO narrow gauge locomotives power interruptions from just about anything including dust are hard to avoid.
Here's a video link that clearly shows the issue. th-cam.com/video/9PLeeGTf_HI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! -DTJ
Set the timer for the capacitor slightly longer. If that doesnt solve it, set the light output slightly lower. I have found that some LEDs are very sensitive around their maximum brightness. They react aggresively to slight voltage changes. If they are just off max they tend to be more flexible.
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 Thanks for the input, I'll give it try tonight. I am already running the LEDs at a very low output level but I have not played with the timer settings yet.
The most important thing is do not never ever buy ESU decoders, because it is pure trash.
@@Alexander_Sth Must be why they are still the market leaders…..
The day any manufacturer out there give me the same interface between myself and their decoders, I might look into it. I have installed hundreds of them. Never had a problem. If I did, without exception, it was a wiring fault. In the last 13 years, I have had three faulty decoders. All of them got replaced. Free of charge.
What more can you possibly expect?
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 who told that they are market leaders? You know excactly how much decoders including in new locomotives sold last year on the market from each fabric?
That is a problem that you installed hundreds of decoder and do not wait something very modern and special like me or other newcomers. You do not wait 1 cm for 2 minutes, you do not wait exponential acceleration, you do not wait automatic finding every best step of back-EMF settings, which can not get none Zimo or ESU, because it shoud have other architecture of decoders.
I see the problem of market in the stagnation. Old modellers do not have some special expectation for riding, slow motion and so on, but every year they go from hobby and sells collection because many of them too old. For newcomers decoder and locomotive manufacturer still have nothing to present. Still no modern motors, no ideal easy PID-Back-EMF settings and so on. Fun that today progressive "non model" analog motor drive beat any modern decoder for slow speed.
@@riekusvanderwesthuizen471 i've done virtual model in Adobe Premier for acceleration with reference mark. All decoders work very very badly, because they could not achieve the same driving behaviour.
1 there are few points where they lose control over motor so it lose speed for moments like car with gearbox.
2 you can not start without jump, obviously you can, but you need to drop voltage so much and play with Back-EMF, but than you can nothing to do with middle range speed control