Hey everyone, I goofed up in the final testing of the run out by using the indicator wrong. Rookie error aside I retested the holder and I'm still getting below 0.01mm of run out. Cheers guys. th-cam.com/video/xD1a_R5v2ak/w-d-xo.html
Cool build. I wanted to drop a note that the runout of the tool holder that you made at the end is actually less than 10 microns! Probably closer to 5 microns. This is because you measured with the probe of the indicator at about a 45 degree angle relative to the runout which amplifies the measurement. If you want to learn more about this effect you can look up "test indicator cosine error."
Work piece rotational speed should be slow compared to the grinding wheel. Doing so improves surface finish, reduces vibration and lengthens the time between wheel dressings. Coolant should either be flood or none at all otherwise thermal distortion can occur (of course depending on part dimensions). As someone else commented (and I agree), reducing the contact area between wheel and part offers huge improvements in surface finish. Hope this helps going forward. Great job, keep up the excellent videos :)
Someone else suggested that too. What I found was that it didn't make much of a difference with soft steel. Low lathe rpm definitely is what is needed for working with hardened steel though
I find your determination extremely impressive. I have a suggestion that might help the rigidity and in turn leave a much better finish from your lathe spindle. The mini lathes use a plastic bearing retainer on the head stock spindle bearings. If you replace them with metal retainers you will be very surprised at the difference in surface finish. Keep up the hard work
Best mod I've seen him do that NO ONE anywhere else has done is put a 1" x 2" steel block brace under the headstock to the foot behind where the motor mount is. Of all of the videos, forums, and personal sites I've searched he's the only one I've seen address this issue and I'm in progress of doing it to my LMS 5100. I would like to see him do the carriage taper gib mod following Rick Kruger's design from 1999 - I just finished my own variation of that mod on my machine and it seems to be much smoother and stouter
Just a suggestion ; relive the grinding wheel so you a smaller contact area with the part when grinding it should help with surface finish and easier to maintain parallel diameters
Your commitment to cutting stock by hand with a hacksaw is admirable. I think when your channel hits it's next milestone you should gift yourself a bandsaw
@@artisanmakes desktop surface grinder would be awesome! I've seen someone TH-cam knife makers put a cup grinding stone in their minimill though I'm not sure if that's a great idea or terribly bad idea
It dramatically increases tap life and it also decreases the chances of a snapped tap (at least if you don't harden the chamfer with a dull cheapo countersink)
@@Sketch1994 Machine taps ftw, they’re not nearly as fragile as regular straight flute taps. After a few years of looking around and buying what I can I now don’t have to fear at every turn wether my tap is going to install itself permanently in the hole.
@@shiro-r4m Totally...I stopped buying cheapo machine taps (mostly use Volkel and OSG so far), while I don't even remember when was the last time I paid for a hand tap...
@@Sketch1994 I've had good luck with OSG, Emuge, Fraisa, Walter and YG. But to be frank probably any brand that produces a full range of cutting tools is going to have some high quality tap options as well. There are different quality levels of taps within the brands as well, designating what tensile strength you can reliably cut with it. I find they are very expensive though new, you can easily spend 50 EUR for an M12 tap from the brands I mentioned. I buy them slightly used and they just last me forever. Unless I do something stupid and run them too deep into a blind hole while power tapping on the mill or lathe, that easily snaps them.
You're a beast for making it through that steel stock with a hacksaw! 💪 Before bandsaws there were power hacksaws, building one might make for a fun project.
pyrobeav2005 you are one of many that have said he needs a bandsaw if he wanted a bandsaw he would have purchased one.He uses that hacksaw because it is a good workout for himself!!
@@robertbutler8004 Ah, my appologies. Just found the channel, I made some assumptions about why one wouldn't use, well, anything but a hacksaw. Landed on "maybe they just don't like using machines that make it feel like cheating", and a power hacksaw is just the fit for that. Can be built out of scraps, and gets the job done enough.
@@robertbutler8004 he doesn't do this anymore but he answered to this question frequently. The Porta-Band that he wants isn't easily available in australia and for a standing Bandsaw he doesn't have the space. So yeah, he wants one, too
@@an2thea514 And he can't find someone to just ship him the porta band he wants? I know shipping is expensive, but that hack saw really gets me in every video. I am impressed with the straight cuts with the hacksaw though!
@@gorak9000 if the will is too weak, the process is too hard. With how much he imports, the money should have been there long ago. He could even use his Filing machine with a modification.
I highly recommend an immediate investment in literally any cheap ultrasonic cleaner you can afford. Grinding dust will contaminate each and every part until you’ve given things a thorough wash. Don’t ask me how I know. 😅 I thought a parts cleaner would do the trick, but internal surfaces are very tenacious. Great build friendo.
You keep working a hack saw like that and you're gonna look like one of those pro arm wrestlers with one arm bigger than the other. My elbow was aching just watching that.
Great build, another useful tool for the shop. I wonder if you were to mount it to the mill and do the final grind there, be interesting to see if there is less runout. Cheers
About using a grinder quick-release toolholder - I've seen that type of grinder attachment used with cup-style grinder heads perpendicular to the material in the lathe...
I definitely have too. I have a cup wheel in storage but it would be too large for this one and I haven't found any that would be really suited t this set up. Granted, I have not spent too much time looking.
I have a very similar shop built tool post grinder. I ordered a variety set of those carborundum stones along with some vintage ones on 1/4 inch arbors. I had high expectations, they were cut very well. They did not perform at all well and they're quite a bit Pinker then other carborundum Wheels source elsewhere. I don't think they have nearly as much garnet and that's the biggest problem with surface finish. Try ordering an older wheel off of eBay and see how it goes, I think it might be surprisingly better
Lol I went to comment about the cutting of that thick piece of bar and someone beat me to it. But seriously though, I just used my portable bandsaw for the first time today and it is completely worth it.
Very cool! Although I would expect you might get more rigidity from a larger quickchange tool hook welded on. Also the dressing stone in the mag base doesn't look very rigid. Maybe you could make a video about making a mount for the dressing stones!
@@artisanmakes I mean no offense by my comments btw! Huge fan and I love what you do making things yourself instead of paying out the wazoo. That's what machining is all about right? 😄
Damn that’s wild, I also built one just this week. It’s got one of them 2.2kW chinese vfd spindles. I needed it to regrind the morse taper 4 in my tail stock which the previous owner decided to graciously mess up for me
@@artisanmakes I tried reamers (new chinese and old russian) but they didn’t correct the angle sufficiently and the surface finish left much to be desired. Checked with a known good male taper and spotting blue. Regrinding the taper yielded much better results than reaming both in angle and surface quality. Grinding it also gives me concentricity since I can indicate the back and hold the front in the steady. Hand reaming can push a hole off center a little if you’re not careful.
Here's another tip, get yourself an oscillating saw, Milwaukee tools makes their Sawsall. Some fine tooth metal cutting blades for the saw and you can leave your hacksaw for cutting off for old crap . Test indicator notes, bring the needle down to a perpendicular position to the surface that you are trying to measure.
In those milling parts of the vid at the start were you running those cutters that fast or did you speed up the film. The one thing I wished people would do a lot more of id show there cutter & speed details. Don't worry if people don't agree with your speeds & feeds. We all know that different settings work with different machines because of the cutters being used. I have a lathe on the way and a grinder is one of the things I am considering for the same sorts of reasons you have done this. And you've done me (and others) a great favor by showing us a way this can be done.
Might I suggest using 17-4 ss unheat treated machine oversize and does not take high heat to harden can do in your oven uses to make aircraft bushings so bar ends were free for us to do what ever
Never used that grade of stainless. What I usually deal with is off cuts anyway from material shops. I might have to check if there is a local equivalent to that grade
That is a very good result. Now that I've made a few ER collets, I've realised that 4140 and a high speed finishing pass with a sharp dcgt insert leaves a great finish that's almost as good as ground. A grinding attachment would still be better if you're going to heat treat the collet and regrind.
I have seen your videos on that and you definitely get a better finish with inserts than I ever could get with my inserts, although I'm sure my top slide plays a role in that :)
I wonder if the suboptimal surface finish is due to the fact that the way you have it set up, the relative movement of the part and the wheel cancel each other partly. Have you tried running your lathe spindle in reverse?
I've tried multiple ways and the results don't seem to vary too much. I thought that I'd recorded grinding a piece of drill rod but I couldn't find it. Hardened steel always came out looking much nicer though.
I have built a similar tool for my chinese late 7 x 12 , but i can't get a good finish, so i always have to use sand paper to get a mirror surface of my piece ... but this changes the final diameter ( even 0,03 or more millimeters ... ) in a random shape ... Can anyone suggest me how to get a good surface already with grinding tool ( normally made of corindone, or silicon carbide or even diamond ) ? Could this be due to the grid value of the selected tool, or instead to low speed tool ? Thank you very much for any help ...
any regididi issues now dont come from a 1/8 inch abor on the grinding bits, but from the incredibly small toolholder wich everything else just hangs from
Great vids as always. looking to make a tool post grinder myself. went on eBay Google etc can't seem to find any motors i'd call cheap? would you mind putting a link up to where you bought your motor just to get me started. thanks!
I bought this motor well over 3 years ago so I don't have a link anymore, but a quick look on eBay and I saw a few going for about $150ish. Search for er11 spindle and you'll see some results. You don't have to get this exact model, any spindle with a collar and bracket should do
Fot grinding its better to use colant with almost no content of oil, or only water. This helps the fine chips to evacuate an dose not close up the grinding weel
I tried both, the heat build up seemed to create more issues for me than the build.up in the grinding stone, plus the surface improved somewhat. Could be different for you but that was just my experience with this set up.
I hadn't noticed first, but you're using the lever indicator wrong. This type of indicator reads how much that leg swings. So it should be positioned in such a way that the part you are indicating pushes against the leg, comparable to the action between a footballers lower leg and the ball. In your current setup, this means the indicator dial should be pointing sideways so that the leg can 'kick' the 'ball' i.e. the endmill sideways. Hope this makes sense...Perhaps look up some videos. The leg should 'kick' the target in the direction you want to indicate. You can always reposition the leg on the indicator - it's intentionally a friction fit. That position is irrelevant. But the leg's position should 'hit' the target 'straight on'. Again: this indicator just measures the swing of the leg. Ah...I finally found a video that clearly explains it: "Indicator Basics - Using a Test Indicator - Haas Automation" (I can't add links in comments apparently) The best visual is about halfway the video - with all the angles.
Hi the dti may not have been used in the optimal way but to me it was a good practical way with spindle being turned by hand in the correct direction. It was used to indicate out of true so cosine error was not really important in this instance, more important to me is to get the dti pointer approximately set at a right angle to the surface to maximise deflection. I thought it was a well thought out execution and good video. Thank you
hi. i was looking for a little help.. lol . and i found it .. so i thought id send it to you to. as you like this kind of work to. hope you have fun atb toneUK
Maybe but thankfully the accuracy of the bracket doesn't matter too much. There is enough movement in the bracket mount holes that you can rotate the spindle to get it parallel with the lathe spindle.
I haven't read the (as of right now) 126 comments due to the time I have, but you ought to build a truly rigid diamond holder. The flimsy one you used surely was vibrating, causing your wheel to be dressed poorly as shown by your finish, I think.
How come you don't buy a PORTA BAND saw for the metal. Harbor freight has a cheap unit and with a good blade it works well. Seem funny to have all this equipment , then hand cut metal lol. Your skills are excellent
You'll get tons of cosine error if the probe is that far from parallel to the surface being measured, but it's easy enough to compensate for. Cos(probe angle) * (indicated reading) will give you the actual deflection. Cosine error always increases the indicated reading, exaggerating the deflection and making the runout look worse than it actually is. It's hard to tell the probe angle from the image, but the actual runout on that shank is probably about 5μm. I'd say that's a pretty good result for a cheap Chinese spindle motor on a mini lathe.
Could be like this, I think I got a bit sloppy for a sec. I'll have to remeasure it when Im next in the workshop. Anything below 0.02mm runout on my mill is pretty good, considering the spindle has about 0.01mm of run out. Cheers guys
Your run out measure is not accurate ! The tip of your indicator must always be as parallel as possible to the surface you are measure, if your touching the surface at an angle like in your video you get a cosin error, in practice that means that your ~0,01mm runout with your tip pointing at 60 degres is in reality about 0,03mm with the tip at an appropriate angle (just making those numbers out so you get the idea)
I think your feed rate is too high and also the lathe RPM is too high. You need to take light passes since there is no cooling. You need to dress the wheel course
I've tried various speeds and it doesn't seem to make too much of a difference with soft steel. Definitely matters with hardened steel which takes lower lathe spindle rpm.
Hey everyone, I goofed up in the final testing of the run out by using the indicator wrong. Rookie error aside I retested the holder and I'm still getting below 0.01mm of run out. Cheers guys. th-cam.com/video/xD1a_R5v2ak/w-d-xo.html
Arrrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhh! We need to take up a collection and buy you a bandsaw!!!!!
But he always gets comments and engagement because of it. This man works harder than anyone for it.
Yes, we really should. How about a Patreon account?
Hacksaws build character.
You know he probably has a portaband and just shows progress cuts with the hacksaw just for TH-cam comments 😜🤣
he probably has Popeye forearms by now
Cool build. I wanted to drop a note that the runout of the tool holder that you made at the end is actually less than 10 microns! Probably closer to 5 microns. This is because you measured with the probe of the indicator at about a 45 degree angle relative to the runout which amplifies the measurement. If you want to learn more about this effect you can look up "test indicator cosine error."
Never going to be able to live this goof down. Oh well at least I got it recorded in the best 4k footage for everyone to see. 😅
@@artisanmakes Haha, it's great though! It means its twice as good as you thought it was :)
@@artisanmakes you can read my reply above this one for the explanation, but I dont think it actually was a goof...
Work piece rotational speed should be slow compared to the grinding wheel. Doing so improves surface finish, reduces vibration and lengthens the time between wheel dressings. Coolant should either be flood or none at all otherwise thermal distortion can occur (of course depending on part dimensions). As someone else commented (and I agree), reducing the contact area between wheel and part offers huge improvements in surface finish. Hope this helps going forward. Great job, keep up the excellent videos :)
Someone else suggested that too. What I found was that it didn't make much of a difference with soft steel. Low lathe rpm definitely is what is needed for working with hardened steel though
I find your determination extremely impressive. I have a suggestion that might help the rigidity and in turn leave a much better finish from your lathe spindle. The mini lathes use a plastic bearing retainer on the head stock spindle bearings. If you replace them with metal retainers you will be very surprised at the difference in surface finish. Keep up the hard work
Great practical tip and it probably applies to other machines.
Wish I could give you more than 1 thumb.
Okay I must admit that has never occured to me to replace. I'll definitely have to look into that. Cheers
You really make that little mini lathe sing bro. I am ever impressed with what you're able to coax that little thing into doing.
I mean I think he replaced a majority of the parts by things he made himself haha.
Best mod I've seen him do that NO ONE anywhere else has done is put a 1" x 2" steel block brace under the headstock to the foot behind where the motor mount is. Of all of the videos, forums, and personal sites I've searched he's the only one I've seen address this issue and I'm in progress of doing it to my LMS 5100.
I would like to see him do the carriage taper gib mod following Rick Kruger's design from 1999 - I just finished my own variation of that mod on my machine and it seems to be much smoother and stouter
@@dieselwelds8645 There is a good write up on that taper gib mod in a recent edition of HSM. Someone should send him a copy.
Just a suggestion ; relive the grinding wheel so you a smaller contact area with the part when grinding it should help with surface finish and easier to maintain parallel diameters
Your commitment to cutting stock by hand with a hacksaw is admirable. I think when your channel hits it's next milestone you should gift yourself a bandsaw
Same though occurs to me each end every time I see that...
Now that is a nice addition to add to your toolbox. Now you just need a small desktop surface grinder. :)
You bet. That is definitely an idea I've had in the back of my mind for years. Not sure how I'd go about that though :) Cheers
The man needs a band saw.
@@artisanmakes desktop surface grinder would be awesome! I've seen someone TH-cam knife makers put a cup grinding stone in their minimill though I'm not sure if that's a great idea or terribly bad idea
Wait and see, I have that in the works for a separate project though I probably wouldn't reccomend doing it.
If you chamfer the holes before you tap them, you'll get better looking results.
More sturdy first thread
It dramatically increases tap life and it also decreases the chances of a snapped tap (at least if you don't harden the chamfer with a dull cheapo countersink)
@@Sketch1994 Machine taps ftw, they’re not nearly as fragile as regular straight flute taps. After a few years of looking around and buying what I can I now don’t have to fear at every turn wether my tap is going to install itself permanently in the hole.
@@shiro-r4m Totally...I stopped buying cheapo machine taps (mostly use Volkel and OSG so far), while I don't even remember when was the last time I paid for a hand tap...
@@Sketch1994 I've had good luck with OSG, Emuge, Fraisa, Walter and YG. But to be frank probably any brand that produces a full range of cutting tools is going to have some high quality tap options as well.
There are different quality levels of taps within the brands as well, designating what tensile strength you can reliably cut with it.
I find they are very expensive though new, you can easily spend 50 EUR for an M12 tap from the brands I mentioned. I buy them slightly used and they just last me forever. Unless I do something stupid and run them too deep into a blind hole while power tapping on the mill or lathe, that easily snaps them.
Your video production quality has improved over time and your videos are superb. Keep up the great work. Greetings from NYC!
Thank you very much!
You're a beast for making it through that steel stock with a hacksaw! 💪 Before bandsaws there were power hacksaws, building one might make for a fun project.
pyrobeav2005 you are one of many that have said he needs a bandsaw if he wanted a bandsaw he would have purchased one.He uses that hacksaw because it is a good workout for himself!!
@@robertbutler8004 Ah, my appologies. Just found the channel, I made some assumptions about why one wouldn't use, well, anything but a hacksaw. Landed on "maybe they just don't like using machines that make it feel like cheating", and a power hacksaw is just the fit for that. Can be built out of scraps, and gets the job done enough.
@@robertbutler8004 he doesn't do this anymore but he answered to this question frequently.
The Porta-Band that he wants isn't easily available in australia and for a standing Bandsaw he doesn't have the space.
So yeah, he wants one, too
@@an2thea514 And he can't find someone to just ship him the porta band he wants? I know shipping is expensive, but that hack saw really gets me in every video. I am impressed with the straight cuts with the hacksaw though!
@@gorak9000 if the will is too weak, the process is too hard.
With how much he imports, the money should have been there long ago.
He could even use his Filing machine with a modification.
I really love to see what you achieve with these hobby tools, it is amazing
Idk how you do it with that hacksaw! You’re an absolute animal with that thing!
Good tool build as usual. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
You did a nice job on the tool holder. Thank you for sharing this video!
I highly recommend an immediate investment in literally any cheap ultrasonic cleaner you can afford. Grinding dust will contaminate each and every part until you’ve given things a thorough wash. Don’t ask me how I know. 😅 I thought a parts cleaner would do the trick, but internal surfaces are very tenacious. Great build friendo.
hat off for your hand saw work ... good job done :)
I use a grinding tool made of Silicon Rubber with corund particles in it for finishing. Looks verry good.
I would love to see you aquire a portable band saw or a full sized one.
You keep working a hack saw like that and you're gonna look like one of those pro arm wrestlers with one arm bigger than the other. My elbow was aching just watching that.
IT'S GOOD TO HAVE SOMETHING TO IMPLEMENT YOUR IDEAS WITH!
Great build, another useful tool for the shop. I wonder if you were to mount it to the mill and do the final grind there, be interesting to see if there is less runout.
Cheers
About using a grinder quick-release toolholder - I've seen that type of grinder attachment used with cup-style grinder heads perpendicular to the material in the lathe...
I definitely have too. I have a cup wheel in storage but it would be too large for this one and I haven't found any that would be really suited t this set up. Granted, I have not spent too much time looking.
At this stage, getting a bandsaw would hurt the comment section engagement metrics XD
I have a very similar shop built tool post grinder. I ordered a variety set of those carborundum stones along with some vintage ones on 1/4 inch arbors. I had high expectations, they were cut very well. They did not perform at all well and they're quite a bit Pinker then other carborundum Wheels source elsewhere. I don't think they have nearly as much garnet and that's the biggest problem with surface finish. Try ordering an older wheel off of eBay and see how it goes, I think it might be surprisingly better
Lol I went to comment about the cutting of that thick piece of bar and someone beat me to it. But seriously though, I just used my portable bandsaw for the first time today and it is completely worth it.
Very cool! Although I would expect you might get more rigidity from a larger quickchange tool hook welded on. Also the dressing stone in the mag base doesn't look very rigid. Maybe you could make a video about making a mount for the dressing stones!
I don't think the holder rigidity is much of an issue to worry about. As for the mAh made holder, it's not hugely rigid it'll get replaced in time
@@artisanmakes I mean no offense by my comments btw! Huge fan and I love what you do making things yourself instead of paying out the wazoo. That's what machining is all about right? 😄
None at all, always happy to hear suggestions. Cheers
We are going to start calling you "hacksaw Harry:" !!
Damn that’s wild, I also built one just this week. It’s got one of them 2.2kW chinese vfd spindles. I needed it to regrind the morse taper 4 in my tail stock which the previous owner decided to graciously mess up for me
Neat, hope it works well for you. Couldn't use a morse taper reamer to do that though?
@@artisanmakes I tried reamers (new chinese and old russian) but they didn’t correct the angle sufficiently and the surface finish left much to be desired. Checked with a known good male taper and spotting blue. Regrinding the taper yielded much better results than reaming both in angle and surface quality. Grinding it also gives me concentricity since I can indicate the back and hold the front in the steady. Hand reaming can push a hole off center a little if you’re not careful.
+1 on the band saw😂
Quelle patience de scier tout ça j ai mal aux épaules pour vous ^^
Always with excellent job.
Tool post very important to Machin lathe
Here's another tip, get yourself an oscillating saw, Milwaukee tools makes their Sawsall. Some fine tooth metal cutting blades for the saw and you can leave your hacksaw for cutting off for old crap .
Test indicator notes, bring the needle down to a perpendicular position to the surface that you are trying to measure.
Liked this video because you are using hacksaw to cut the blank... 👍👍
In those milling parts of the vid at the start were you running those cutters that fast or did you speed up the film.
The one thing I wished people would do a lot more of id show there cutter & speed details.
Don't worry if people don't agree with your speeds & feeds.
We all know that different settings work with different machines because of the cutters being used.
I have a lathe on the way and a grinder is one of the things I am considering for the same sorts of reasons you have done this.
And you've done me (and others) a great favor by showing us a way this can be done.
This is a pro hacksaw comment. Cool build!
FIRST CLASS WORK.
You really do need to see about getting a bandsaw, even a small one with steel capability would be worth it. 🙂
Dennis Sheridan it is a great workout for him.
Muy bueno está Calidad el trabajo me gusta la herramienta 🙏
Do you have a video on how to hold/turn short round stock ?
So short that its inside the jaws.
This guys right forearm must be massive with only using a hacksaw.
One arm like an oversize Fiddler Crab
If the lathe is cutting a taper and the grinder is connected to the same place the cutter was, wouldn’t it grind a taper too?
you might want to try grinding wheels with a finer grit for better surface finish.
I thought that was aluminum until you started welding it to steel. Lol
nice job
Jesus christ open a patreon and get a bandsaw 😂 that first shot was a shot to the heart
Might I suggest using 17-4 ss unheat treated machine oversize and does not take high heat to harden can do in your oven uses to make aircraft bushings so bar ends were free for us to do what ever
Never used that grade of stainless. What I usually deal with is off cuts anyway from material shops. I might have to check if there is a local equivalent to that grade
That is a very good result. Now that I've made a few ER collets, I've realised that 4140 and a high speed finishing pass with a sharp dcgt insert leaves a great finish that's almost as good as ground. A grinding attachment would still be better if you're going to heat treat the collet and regrind.
I have seen your videos on that and you definitely get a better finish with inserts than I ever could get with my inserts, although I'm sure my top slide plays a role in that :)
I wonder if the suboptimal surface finish is due to the fact that the way you have it set up, the relative movement of the part and the wheel cancel each other partly. Have you tried running your lathe spindle in reverse?
I've tried multiple ways and the results don't seem to vary too much. I thought that I'd recorded grinding a piece of drill rod but I couldn't find it. Hardened steel always came out looking much nicer though.
maybe the stone is skipping becouse of to much flex.
Try running the lathe much slower than that. Grinder really fast, part rotates slowly. Best surface finish.
I have tried slower but it doesn't seem to do much for softer steel, Cheers
I have built a similar tool for my chinese late 7 x 12 , but i can't get a good finish, so i always have to use sand paper to get a mirror surface of my piece ... but this changes the final diameter ( even 0,03 or more millimeters ... ) in a random shape ...
Can anyone suggest me how to get a good surface already with grinding tool ( normally made of corindone, or silicon carbide or even diamond ) ? Could this be due to the grid value of the selected tool, or instead to low speed tool ? Thank you very much for any help ...
Nice build. My question is which power supply did you use for the 48volt DC ?
It's one of those rectangular 240v to 48v transformers. My one is 12 amps
Hi, thank you for your effort in making these videos. How is the runout on the 400w spindle motor? Are the motor bearings decent?
Definitely good enough that they are used in a lot of DIY CNC routers. The run out is somewhere around .01mm and the bearings hold up well.
any regididi issues now dont come from a 1/8 inch abor on the grinding bits, but from the incredibly small toolholder wich everything else just hangs from
No i can definitely feel during the cut that there is some give in the grinding arbor
Great vids as always. looking to make a tool post grinder myself. went on eBay Google etc can't seem to find any motors i'd call cheap? would you mind putting a link up to where you bought your motor just to get me started. thanks!
I bought this motor well over 3 years ago so I don't have a link anymore, but a quick look on eBay and I saw a few going for about $150ish. Search for er11 spindle and you'll see some results. You don't have to get this exact model, any spindle with a collar and bracket should do
@@artisanmakes brilliant. Thank's for that quick reply I think the er11 is what I was missing 👍
excellent video...I think I will make one the same
Maybe get a thread mill and do thread milling in the mini lathe instead of single point thread cutting?
I'm fairly sure he has enough rigidity in this toolpost grinder to succeed at thread milling.
Sangat terampil..
9:28 what is that some kind of shearing bar?
Van you make a power hacksaw next please?
Dude get a metal cutting band so you’re killing me with the hacksaw
Custom Arbor video next 👍
Fot grinding its better to use colant with almost no content of oil, or only water. This helps the fine chips to evacuate an dose not close up the grinding weel
I tried both, the heat build up seemed to create more issues for me than the build.up in the grinding stone, plus the surface improved somewhat. Could be different for you but that was just my experience with this set up.
What wattage is your router spindle rated for?
400w brushless dc
@@artisanmakes Thanks!
Do you have the part number to the motor?.... or how much would you sell me the same setup that you fabricated.
where’s the part 2 of the gearbox?
SOMEone gift this man a bandsaw allready
Author, please read about "angle error". Because you use lever indicator wrong. Thanks
Ops 😅
You should build a bandsaw imo😊
Just watching you cut metal by hand with a hacksaw is making my arms hurt.
Dang Dude... Get you a bandsaw!
I hadn't noticed first, but you're using the lever indicator wrong. This type of indicator reads how much that leg swings. So it should be positioned in such a way that the part you are indicating pushes against the leg, comparable to the action between a footballers lower leg and the ball. In your current setup, this means the indicator dial should be pointing sideways so that the leg can 'kick' the 'ball' i.e. the endmill sideways. Hope this makes sense...Perhaps look up some videos. The leg should 'kick' the target in the direction you want to indicate. You can always reposition the leg on the indicator - it's intentionally a friction fit. That position is irrelevant. But the leg's position should 'hit' the target 'straight on'. Again: this indicator just measures the swing of the leg.
Ah...I finally found a video that clearly explains it: "Indicator Basics - Using a Test Indicator - Haas Automation" (I can't add links in comments apparently)
The best visual is about halfway the video - with all the angles.
Hi the dti may not have been used in the optimal way but to me it was a good practical way with spindle being turned by hand in the correct direction. It was used to indicate out of true so cosine error was not really important in this instance, more important to me is to get the dti pointer approximately set at a right angle to the surface to maximise deflection. I thought it was a well thought out execution and good video. Thank you
hi. i was looking for a little help.. lol . and i found it .. so i thought id send it to you to. as you like this kind of work to. hope you have fun atb toneUK
think the toolholder wouldve been more precice if you had welded the pieces together then machine it square and add the dovetail
Maybe but thankfully the accuracy of the bracket doesn't matter too much. There is enough movement in the bracket mount holes that you can rotate the spindle to get it parallel with the lathe spindle.
Niec❤️❤️❤️👑👑👑👈
👍😎👍
Who else wants to go in with me on donating an electric power hacksaw machine to the channel 😏
I would
If I had any money I could give I would buy him a bandsaw
👍💯.
Can someone please make 10h video where Aristan cuts a piece of metal.
⭐🙂👍
I haven't read the (as of right now) 126 comments due to the time I have, but you ought to build a truly rigid diamond holder. The flimsy one you used surely was vibrating, causing your wheel to be dressed poorly as shown by your finish, I think.
Yes definitely on my list of stuff to make. The mag base does an okay job but it can be better
Never cut stock by hand!
Hey "Arty" do you have a patreon account?
Unfortunately nothing is inexpensive in the UK. Our government likes to tear us a new one so they can spend like a lunatic.
How come you don't buy a PORTA BAND saw for the metal. Harbor freight has a cheap unit and with a good blade it works well. Seem funny to have all this equipment , then hand cut metal lol.
Your skills are excellent
Get a bandsaw. Nice photography.
u need a better faster saw man!
Get some anti spatter spray and you won’t have all those spatter balls around the weld.
11:00 very wrong way of using a dti
Ops
You'll get tons of cosine error if the probe is that far from parallel to the surface being measured, but it's easy enough to compensate for. Cos(probe angle) * (indicated reading) will give you the actual deflection. Cosine error always increases the indicated reading, exaggerating the deflection and making the runout look worse than it actually is.
It's hard to tell the probe angle from the image, but the actual runout on that shank is probably about 5μm. I'd say that's a pretty good result for a cheap Chinese spindle motor on a mini lathe.
Could be like this, I think I got a bit sloppy for a sec. I'll have to remeasure it when Im next in the workshop. Anything below 0.02mm runout on my mill is pretty good, considering the spindle has about 0.01mm of run out. Cheers guys
May.be.fair.to.work.what.for.tapper.grinding
If I buy you a bandsaw, can I get a lifetime Patreon membership? 😀
what milk is that?
Elder brother I am a lathe machine prater
Your run out measure is not accurate ! The tip of your indicator must always be as parallel as possible to the surface you are measure, if your touching the surface at an angle like in your video you get a cosin error, in practice that means that your ~0,01mm runout with your tip pointing at 60 degres is in reality about 0,03mm with the tip at an appropriate angle (just making those numbers out so you get the idea)
I goofed up here but I retested it and im still getting below 0.01mm of run out on the toolholder th-cam.com/video/xD1a_R5v2ak/w-d-xo.html
I think your feed rate is too high and also the lathe RPM is too high. You need to take light passes since there is no cooling. You need to dress the wheel course
I've tried various speeds and it doesn't seem to make too much of a difference with soft steel. Definitely matters with hardened steel which takes lower lathe spindle rpm.
its so painful watching you cut the bits of metal with a hand hacksaw :(
For christ sake dude, buy yourself a bandsaw! they cost like 200 bucks and don't take up much space.
I really enjoy your videos but please stop showing the hack-sawing footage.