Excellent job with these videos! Thanks for doing them. It's been about 20 years since I did the one in my '66 GTO with around 550HP and it's getting close to needing a refreshing.
Thank you for the kind words and views, Heinrich! The 200-4R playlist should help you with your build...I'll be doing a 200-4R tear down and inspection video and post to the channel soon.
Outstanding videos. I'm a retired ASE master that rebuilt mine on my Buick several years ago but made a few simple mistakes. If I would have seen these videos, I could have avoided them. The individual who rebuilt mine and discovered my mistakes, was a master tech at Gearstar. But after his rebuild, it broke the shaft off of the forward drum on a 3-2 downshift. Needless to say, he rebuilt it again and put a billet drum in and a billet servo. To this day, I'm not comfortable with the way it shifts and these videos give me a reason during the winter months to give it another try myself.
Thank you for the kind words, TenSecondBuickGN - nice Grand National! I wonder why the Gearstar tech decided to leave the factory forward drum and shaft in...Assuming your engine's making more than about 350-400HP (reasonable assumption, haha) he more than likely dual-fed the direct clutch which is the right thing to do but I'd never do that and re-use the factory forward drum...The direct clutch puts a fair amount of stress on that shaft and when dual fed, the stresses effectively double at higher RPMs. IIRC, the shaft gets side-loaded upon shifting in and out of third gear, which eventually causes the shaft to snap at the drum.
@@nickstransmissions Wow thank you for the insight. I guess I will never know if he "dual fed" the drum until I take it apart. The 1-2 and 3-4 are very crisp but the 2-3 kinda rolls into a thump (for lack of a better description). And after I pull over to put gas in it or some brief turn off of the engine , this dull thump on the very first upshift on the 2-3 is much softer than the following ones. That was my reason for doing it myself again. Because I recently learned he passed away during the pandemic 😥
You're welcome, man...Sorry to hear about the transmission builder's passing....You will know if he dual-fed the direct clutch if the high-reverse feed bolt (bolt on the right side of the center support when the stator is facing down) is either welded or a solid bolt has been installed...There should only be two sealing rings on the center support's stator (middle one should be left off) and the seal in the drum should be missing... Additionally, the 2-3 feeds should be drilled to between .085-.093 for a stock to about 2400 stall TC.
Thanks man. One last tip - look at the inner diameter of the direct drum for excessive wear at the ctr support's sealing rings. Your 2-3 shift description is similar to what I have seen with folks who have worn direct drums...soft and bumpy shifts (or slippage/flare shifts, when wear is pronounced enough).
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Excellent job with these videos! Thanks for doing them. It's been about 20 years since I did the one in my '66 GTO with around 550HP and it's getting close to needing a refreshing.
Thank you for the kind words and views, Heinrich!
The 200-4R playlist should help you with your build...I'll be doing a 200-4R tear down and inspection video and post to the channel soon.
Outstanding videos. I'm a retired ASE master that rebuilt mine on my Buick several years ago but made a few simple mistakes. If I would have seen these videos, I could have avoided them. The individual who rebuilt mine and discovered my mistakes, was a master tech at Gearstar. But after his rebuild, it broke the shaft off of the forward drum on a 3-2 downshift. Needless to say, he rebuilt it again and put a billet drum in and a billet servo. To this day, I'm not comfortable with the way it shifts and these videos give me a reason during the winter months to give it another try myself.
Thank you for the kind words, TenSecondBuickGN - nice Grand National! I wonder why the Gearstar tech decided to leave the factory forward drum and shaft in...Assuming your engine's making more than about 350-400HP (reasonable assumption, haha) he more than likely dual-fed the direct clutch which is the right thing to do but I'd never do that and re-use the factory forward drum...The direct clutch puts a fair amount of stress on that shaft and when dual fed, the stresses effectively double at higher RPMs. IIRC, the shaft gets side-loaded upon shifting in and out of third gear, which eventually causes the shaft to snap at the drum.
@@nickstransmissions Wow thank you for the insight. I guess I will never know if he "dual fed" the drum until I take it apart. The 1-2 and 3-4 are very crisp but the 2-3 kinda rolls into a thump (for lack of a better description). And after I pull over to put gas in it or some brief turn off of the engine , this dull thump on the very first upshift on the 2-3 is much softer than the following ones. That was my reason for doing it myself again. Because I recently learned he passed away during the pandemic 😥
You're welcome, man...Sorry to hear about the transmission builder's passing....You will know if he dual-fed the direct clutch if the high-reverse feed bolt (bolt on the right side of the center support when the stator is facing down) is either welded or a solid bolt has been installed...There should only be two sealing rings on the center support's stator (middle one should be left off) and the seal in the drum should be missing...
Additionally, the 2-3 feeds should be drilled to between .085-.093 for a stock to about 2400 stall TC.
@@nickstransmissions wow thank you so much for the tips. I wish you continued success on your channel because it's very crisp and well explained.
Thanks man. One last tip - look at the inner diameter of the direct drum for excessive wear at the ctr support's sealing rings. Your 2-3 shift description is similar to what I have seen with folks who have worn direct drums...soft and bumpy shifts (or slippage/flare shifts, when wear is pronounced enough).