1995 Subaru Legacy L - camshaft and crankshaft seal replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video, I show how to replace camshast and crankshaft seals in a 1995 Subaru Legacy. This procedure should apply to most EJ22 and EJ18 Subarus.
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Sir, my hat is off to you, as in 18 years off professional auto repair technician experience I have not one time ever seen with the exception of off the floor new models not even once; a subaru H4 design completely free of all fluid leaks.
Recently replaced the camshaft and crankshaft seals on my 93 legacy. Pinning the flywheel (I have a manual) with a flathead screw driver to break the camshaft bolts free, was the deciding factor between finishing the job myself or needing a shop to do it. Worked great.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
How u do that? Where can I pine the flywheel? Thanks
If you have the hood up and you’re looking at the engine bay, on the left side of the bell housing there is a hole where you can stick a screw driver in
Thanks for the videos they have helped walk me through many problems with my 1993 Subaru Legacy L 4x4
Your videos are useful and I appreciate that you're posting them. I also have a 1995 Legacy and your videos have definitely helped me. That said, they would be much better if you had someone to hold the camera to show exactly how you do the work. You might ask your wife or the kid next door about holding the camera for some of the more tricky procedures. For example, how exactly do you remove/install oil seals?
Off to fix my own oil leaks!
I watched this video to get ideas on how to remove the camshaft seal. You completely skipped that. Of no help.
Removal is easy. All you do is carefully stick a screwdriver or something similar in the rubber side of the seal and lever it out. The only caveat is you need to be careful not to scratch or score the camshaft or the recess in the cylinder head. The real work is getting to the seals, which was the overall focus of the video. Once you're there, it's easy to pop them out and get the new ones in.
Thanks for the video. Good info and no nonsense.
There are Camshaft holders that always leak, front right side behind the left timing cover and one on the back left. The o-rings need to be replaced. Also adding in the Torque Specs for the main bolts affected in the video. They can be hard to find and are important. Crank Pulley Bolt (Blue loctite and 130 lbs), Camshaft Pulleys (47-54 . . . Check this) There is also a plug on the rear right of the engine opposite the rear Camshaft holder on the other side that leaks.
Thanks Great Vids
I use the serp belt cinched back on itself around the alternator and hb to hold the crank in place. The idea of pinning shit against that much aluminum is nerve racking.
I didn't mention the torque specs? That's something I usually would do. Thanks for the assist on that. A few comments, though. I have never once used threadlocker on the crank pulley bolt, nor do I believe there was any there at the factory. I've never had a problem with it. I'm aware of other seals that can leak, but I was just patching up a few major and sudden leaks to keep the car on the road a little longer. If I was keeping the car for a long time, I may have done a more thorough job.
I don't really have anyone around to help. Mrs. MDG is usually busy with work commitments. I'll try to use the tripod more. In this case, I CAREFULLY wedged in a screwdriver and pulled the old seal out by its lip, being sure not to scratch the cam and oil pump housings.
rather thn prying out a stubborn oil seal ! use tapping screws, a washer and a forkended slide hammer to get them out! Careful not to damage the seal surfaces of the shafts!
Great job somethin i wanna do on my 00 subi.
Great video!
Some folks mention unloading the driver's side cams before taking them off (along with using the old tbelt to hold the cams). Does this need to be done if I use the flexplate-locking method you describe? Seems like it wouldn't so long as you remember to keep the flexplate locked.
For folks wanting to see the flexplate-locking method check out this vid: How To: Remove your Crank Pulley on a Subaru Outback
Not sure what you mean by "unloading" the cams. As I recall, I locked the crank at the flexplate and loosened the cam pulley bolts before removing the timing belt. Keep in mind I was working on a fairly early SOHC engine. Not sure how this process would differ for a DOHC engine.
Did u decide what you're going to do with this car yet?
I aligned my crankshaft and camshaft pulley to the notches before pulling the belt tensioner and taking off the timing belt. When I pulled the timing belt my camshaft pulley's moved a bit off the notches. Once I replace the cam seals, crank seal, and oil pump seal can I just turn the camshafts independently to the notches for the proper timing alignment?
Thanks for your videos! Very helpful!
That's a tough one. Personally, I would try doing just that, but I'm not a mechanic nor an engineer. If you're working with an early EJ18 or EJ22 engine, I imagine that would be OK. I can't guarantee it, though, and I can't be responsible for any damage that might occur.
But, the early EJ18 or EJ22 engines should be non-interference, so I can't see that you'd hurt anything. Many a time the pulleys on these engines have moved a bit on me also, and yes, I did reposition them by hand with no ill effect. If you're in doubt, consult a technician on this one. Best of luck.
I have a 1995 Legacy 2.2L. One last question. How do you brace the flex plate? I have it exposed, but not sure where to brace? Thanks again for your videos and response. You do a great job!
I don't know if I show it in this video, but there's a small access panel at the upper passenger side (USA, LHD) where the engine and transmission meet. You can pull out and remove this panel by hand. I think it's plastic. Once it's out, you can carefully wedge a stout tool in there to lock the flexplate in place.
At one point in the video, you say that the main oil seal and O-ring is installed. I know where the oil seal goes, but where does the O-ring go? Likewise, I got a kit for the two cam seals and they both came with O-rings. Where do those O-rings go?
Thanks!
Bob Kovacs Wish I could tell you. I did this repair quite a long time ago and honestly don't recall.
Okay. I went ahead and did the work but never did see where the o-rings went. Everything seems fine with 250 miles on it... running strong and no leaks.
Bob Kovacs Glad to hear it worked out for you.
+Bob Kovacs the o ring was bottom left on the oil pump
Taylor Siolo
Thanks, Taylor. Sadly, in September, the car was rear-ended and totaled. But I appreciate your follow up.
I've got an EJ22 and will be doing this same procedure pretty soon here. question: did you need any kind of puller or presser to get the crank pulley off or on?
No puller should be necessary. Once the crank bolt is off, you should be able to remove the pulley by hand. Wiggle it a bit if need be.
hello! i am a dedicated viewer of your Subaru videos. i do all of my own repairs and wasted to pick you brain. i have a 97 legacy Brighton engine 2.2L ej22e. i lost almost all my oil the other day and it looks like it sprayed out from the side of the engine and downwards. is it possible for a bad valve seal to blow out that much oil?
Hi. First off, thanks for your viewership. Are you talking about a valve stem seal inside the cylinder head, under the valve cover, or are you talking about the seals covered in this video. In the first case, I'd guess no. In the second case, I'd say very likely. The first time I did this repair it was because the camshaft seal had blown out and behaved as you just described. Oil got all over the exhaust and the car was, as such, generating a cloud of smoke. It was all-around dangerous.
did you check the oil lines? I know a lot of times when those go bad the car can start to leak a lot of oil.
There are no oil lines, per se. There are transmission oil cooler lines (intact) and power steering lines (no longer exist on this car). As this car has no external engine oil cooler, there are no engine oil lines. I was right about these seals, though. A week later, and no more leaks after the repair.
Was your wife able to steer alright without power steering? Mine is leaking; and I'm contemplating removing it.
Bora
(Stockton, CA)
Hi, I'm a whole novice when comes to messing the timing car engine. I have 1998 Subaru Outback legacy and I need to replace crank and cam seals, but I'm a little nervous about removing the crank and cam pulleys. Can you explain to me how you keep everything in time while you loosening the bolts and pullleys?
Thanks Matthew K. from Sacramento
Hi Matthew. The 1998 Outback is most likely a very different animal from this 1995 model. If I'm not mistaken, a 1998 Outback would have had the EJ25 engine. Also, if I recall correctly, the 1998 EJ25 was DOHC and an interference engine. I didn't have to worry too much about the cams. The early Subaru engines I worked on (1990 EJ22, 1993 EJ18, 1993 EJ22, 1994 EJ22, and 1995 EJ22 (three of those)) were all SOHC non-interference engines.
Once everything was lined up for me, the I didn't disturb the cams and I was OK. But, if I HAD bumped a cam out of position, I could easily reset it back to its mark by hand, no harm, no foul. You will need to be more careful.
There MAY be some kind of tool out there to hold the cams in place, but I'm not familiar with the timing belt job on that engine. Either way, best of luck, do your research, and proceed with caution.
@@MercedesDieselGuy Thanks for responding, I will do some more searching. I just need some to show and explain the procedure at least how to replace timing belt. Thanks again Matthew
I'm about to change the belt on my 98 outback tomorrow. I'm Told you line everything up and use vice grips hold the pulleys together and in the right spot while you change belt and components
I just changed my radiator and water pump now my car won't start where did I go wrong
How do you change a timing belt in a Subaru 99 legacy outback 2.5 L ?
Hanfy Gomaa Too complex to describe here. Even then, I don't really know how that job differs from the old 2.2L engines or the 1.8L engines. Best of luck, but there isn't much I can do to help you with that one. I think that might be a dual cam engine, which is out of my area of experience.
+MercedesDieselGuy
Pull the engine, put in an ej22e out of a '95 legacy.
Use the relevant guide for a 2.2, done.
How did you remove the camshaft pulley?
Apologies - I sold my last Subaru two years ago. As I recall, I loosened the camshaft pulley bolts while the timing belt was still on, then removed the bolts and pulleys once the belt was off. When the belt was back on, I re-torqued them. I most likely blocked the engine at the flywheel so that it wouldn't turn when I did so.
Once again, apologies - I'm writing the above description based on years-old memory.
Dam-age.. Wish you could come help me out with my 95 Legacy L Standard. That screwdriver in the crankshaft seems pretty sketch.. haha first timer.
+Naitsirhc Ylc I've done it many times. Granted, it needs to be a beefy screwdriver. I've also used chisels and heavy punches. The idea is to lock the engine in place at the flywheel or flexplate, and then loosen and/or tighten the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley bolt.
how did you get he camshaft bolts lose?
I find it best to loosen those before removing the timing belt. Otherwise, you need a way to counterhold the pulleys. When the crankshaft locked in place and the belt on, the camshafts will be effectively immobile, from a practical standpoint.
Old belt so worn that every time I try to put pressure it slips and I eventually broke the belt trying to add pressure with vice grips.
Wow. That's a bad timing belt. Perhaps install a new one just to get the pulley off? If you're worried about stressing the belt, perhaps buy a cheap one and sacrifice it for the job? There may be a factory tool to hold the pulley, but I'm not familiar with it.
How did you get the Pully bolts back on, did you have to have the pulley held in place while you tightened it down?
I just changed my radiator and water pump now my car won't start where did I go wrong
My guess is that maybe a camshaft or the crank slipped while removing and/or reinstalling the timing belt. I'd pull the covers and check timing before going further.
If you have an early 2.2L, you have a noninterference engine and should be OK if you just reset the timing.