You remind me of the guy I have bought my MS362 from. The saw was used with very few hours. He has many professional Stihl saws, and runs an old-timer tractor club, under which name he organizes timber sport events. He was very adamant in recommending to never get any "performance" work on the saw done, because the engineers at Stihl put many hours into developing the saw to its highest potential in power as well as reliability. He even recommended to never put any non-OEM parts on the saw, as those could also alter reliability. Would like to see your in-depth review of the MS362. Regards from Slovenia, N
Most of the saw manufacturers have a recommended bar length and chain type. For the ms362 it's 20in. A 24in will fit, just under stand chain speed will suffer under load. No one recommends dull chain. Take time to sharpen to make time cutting. Your saw will cut better and last longer. Mods for my Stihl saws. Most have an air filter change. Max filter or foam wrap with oil. Time for the MS462 Tim. For fun try the 462 “Rescue” chainsaw. STIHL chainsaws with an (R) designation are equipped with a wrap-around handle. I may try to build a 500I in 2022 .
Please keep in mind, I'm not a logger, just a guy in the northwest who feeds a wood stove. I love my 362 with a 26" bar, it is up graded with Stihl full wrap handle bar and bigger dogs, and the chain oiler is wide open. That saw is a beast when used as intended. That said, I really wish I had a 461. A properly sharpened chain is obviously key, I like mine a little hungry.
I'm still trying to master the chain sharpening. I do pretty good through most of the chains life but I have a couple older chains I need to give up on. I busted out laughing when you started cutting that first limb. I think it was sycamore but not sure. It went through it like a hot knife on butter. I am a weekend warrior on cutting. Have the husky 562xp. Love the saw but last weekend after 4 hours limbing out a huge pine, I was about done for. 20 inch bar is about 5 inches short of reaching the whole way through at the base. had to chop each limb in 2 to load onto the forks of our tractor. That is when I really appreciate watching your kubota and miss piggy work.
Oh my goodness 40 years ago we were running aviation fuel and gasoline. In our two-cycle dirt bikes! My friend's dad work for Willow run airport in Michigan! He was a mechanic when they do a service on an airplane all the fuel was taking out! They would just dump it out into a 55 gallon drum. Well! He would bring it home. Guess what we ran in our lawn mowers motorcycles everything. You had to make it 50/50. With gasoline. Or you'd burn a hole in the top of your piston.
thank you for the video. Yes, my MS 362 is fantastic, and all who use it agree, , , ,I hope you have a good one. within 100 hours of operation, three ignition modules failed. (I am not abusing it). I think I'll switch it back to a conventional carb and coil.
Thomas, do you always let your saw idle and cool down before you shut the engine off? I think running a saw full throttle (getting it very hot) and then cutting the ignition can cause the ignition module to retain a lot of heat and eventually cooks it to failure.
If y’all like STIHL then an 044,064,or 066 version might be in order. Equipped with the KS cylinder version (as opposed to mahle) they run close to a ported saw with a good muffler mod and a velocity-stack. True “muscle saws” that do not have the EPA - friendly restrictions like the modern versions (stratos charged) do. Sure they may drink a fuzz more fuel but they pull like the 7 horses of hell! If ya want even more a righteous port-job on top of the muffler and velocity stack and you’ve got a helluva unit that’ll put the hurt on a modern saw something fierce ...They also run cooler and will LAST longer than a new version. Of course, with a poorly prepared chain we ain’t goin nowhere no matter what the saw 😉
Just sitting here In Tasmania Australia loving your videos and had a thought as I am not able to attend one of your classes could you talk about whether you should just run a new chain or should you do some file work on it first. And what is the first signs that your chain needs work as the last chain I sharpened a long time ago cut like a dish LOL. just some thoughts I was having while watching a good video as always. P.S: need more cotonwood LOL.
Great advice on porting. If one needs a little more power, they should start with a good bar and chains, , ,and sharpening. if one still needs more power, get a bigger, (or modern) piece of equipment. I port for a hobby, but to be real, there is no way one can port an old 028 to be better than a new 362 The 362 starts easier, runs better (if it runs). I started 50 years ago, when calling these things 2 -SMOKE engines was accurate. The new ones are clean fast and (not mine) reliable.
A quarter gallon of aviation fuel. to 3/4 a gallon of premium gasoline! 40 to mixture two-cycle oil. Well when I was younger. One gallon of aviation fuel. To 4 gallons of gas. Any kind of gas. Then add your 2-cycle motor oil into it.
Good observation. Most people cut around 16" because that will fit in most stoves. Those cuts are putting them around 18-20" if I had to guess. Might be moreso for an open fireplace so it can take the larger pieces. Unless he just sells it or uses it as outside burns firewood.
I have a lower opinion on some of these lightweight Japanese bars. Yes, they are easier to work with. But, my experience is that regular steel bars of high quality make and steel cut better and are easier to use because the heavier front end under load sinks better with gravity action into the wood making the cuts faster. Just my opinion and yes I do have a Japanese bar..
Your spot on about chain, hand filed or on the grinder if your not proficient at it, the extra hp or torque u get from a ported saw u just wasted your money. IMHO the Oregon XL chain cuts much better and is butter smooth compared to the RS chain. Here on the west coast of Canada big wood, cedar, fir, and hemlock, when you are trying to finish your undercut from the same side and you flip that saw over to finish the RS chain bucks and chatters like a mother trying to get that cut started again, the XL is much smoother in that regard. The RS chain is also real sensitive on the raker depth u go crazy and it will tear you up chattering so bad again the XL much more forgiving. Buckin’ Billy Ray did a vid both new chain out of the box and the XL is faster then the RS in fir could be a completely different story in hard woods. As for port work on a saw go after the torque, sacrifice a little on the peak HP and who cares that u have a saw the streams to 13,500 plus all these news saw make peak power between 9000-9500 rpm’s broaden that torque curve out and that saw will pull like a freight train and you have yourself a everyday work saw that has the same reliability as a non ported saw. I’d recommend the legend Donny Walker from Walkers saw shop here on Vancouver Island, build strong saws that work everyday in the bush.
It’s got a bark box on it. Lots of videos about those and they don’t seem to make a big difference by themselves but in combination with other improvements it may matter.
On a airplane comes in for service I'm talking a prop airplane. They drain all the fuel tanks! It's considered junk fuel. That's how we got so much aviation fuel.
Tim do you clean your saws after every job? I find that if I clean mine with an air compressor after each tree job they look and run like brand new but maybe that is excessive.
A clean saw runs 10 to 15° cooler than a dirty saw I used to ride dirt bikes and I still cut a lot of firewood with husky and still chainsaws blow them off every time I get done and make some last longer and clean the air filter maintenance is your friend
Well we found out after everything blew up because we were running too much aviation fuel. It was free. Okay. Well 50/50 aviation fuel regular gas! Then add your oil. Everything ran good
My chainsaw has a lot of power! When you hit steel. You're pretty much f***! Time to change the chain. That's what I bring three or four extra chains for each bar!
Hey man I'm looking at a getting a bigger saw. If it was up to you, would you pick an older 372xp (in really good shape) for $500 or a new MS362 for $800?
The 372xp at that price, wow! I've just done the conversion to pounds Stirling. If it's good buy it! Huskies 3 series saws xps great saws. Still have what was my late father's 354 and 395 xp. Fantastic saws, esp the 395 xp. Not sure if you are wanting this for work or home use. But for many folks a good 372 xp is all of the saw you will ever need
@@jukeseyable the local tree service is dropping 27 trees on our property and I plan on cleaning it up. I don't feel like a ranch grade saw will hold up to all that.
@@Johnnyreengo buy the best tool that you can afford, one tip, get your self and your new saw decent quality 2 stroke oil, don't skimp on the cheap stuff. Huski engines are highly engineered bits of kit, they prefer decent oil. I'm guessing ur in the US, so can't advise on brands over there. But it shouldn't be to difficult to get hold of Husqvarna own brand. It's decent enough. A bit pricey, but not crazy money
@@Johnnyreengo one other thing, it's nearly xmas, treat urself to a nice new chain or 2. Not sure what species ur trees are. But on hardwood as a rule of thumb 1 hour optimal cutting, softwood 4 hrs before you should think about sharpening/ changing ur chain. It may not sound a lot. But trust me unless you are in very big stuff, you will get a lot of cutting done. Unless you are experienced with a saw, you are the limiting factor in productivity. Good luck, hope the work goes well for you.
Good Point! I have 2 ported saws but they are more toys than tools! All my worksaws are bone stock... run a 361 as my main with the exact same bar and chain 😍! And I get it if you put so many hours on a saw in a pro application that after 2 years it’s done it is not worth porting! Btw what are your thoughts on aftermarket foam filters vs stock?? Greetings from Germany
Every 362 ive ran has been that M-tronic C-M and I’ve felt like throwing every single one of them through a wood chipper. Run a 462c that chews up any bucking I can throw at it. 362 is kind of too small to be big and too big to be small. Humble opinion on size and use: 35-38cc top handles climbing/topping MS201-CS355t 50cc limbing & small dbh falling/bucking MS261 72-74cc bucking & medium dbh falling MS462-372xp 94cc larger falling & large bucking 395xp-MS661 4 saw lineup can do pretty much all of it shy of old growth harvesting You’ve fallen some hooters Cotontop you’d know better than I would. I’m miles and miles behind you in equipment and experience. ✌🏼
@@andrews2203 my main ground saw is a 261 with a 20” bar full chisel chain. I wouldn’t use it to buck up big timber but limbing and hacking up spars I wouldn’t need anything else. Super lightweight and easy on the tennis elbow. 👌🏼 Big saws are fun until you run them for 8-10 hours straight and can’t open a pickle jar at the dinner table.
Tim, I love your channel but I will respectfully disagree. Stock saws are held back by the restrictive exhaust, creating excess heat causing premature wear. An exceptional builder will make a more reliable modified saw. An exceptional builder will spend the time to know your application and build the saw accordingly. The price that you mentioned is highway robbery. Yes you are correct, there are less than a dozen that are the elite 1% that I trust. The exceptional builder know their limits and refer you to another exceptional builder should your asking be outside of their expertise. Happy cutting.👍
@@cotontop3 Hi Tim ... meet “The Humbler” a STIHL 064 muscle saw. They don’t make em like this anymore. That saw is 26yrs old and will cut circles around what “most” builders give ya for $500 - my work starts at 199.99 and I stand behind what I do! Heck I’ll build ya one for FREE if ya be kind enough to demo on your channel and give an honest report good or bad , pros or cons. I build em for TORQUE and don’t do any machine work to raise compression..... th-cam.com/video/QJyEg_V2g7s/w-d-xo.html
Yeah, I guess it cuts o.k. I mean not too bad for your first time and all... Haha, no, just joking. Pretty impressive actually. I'll have to go through your videos and see if you have any on sharpening....
Tim u are right u can spend 500 or so to get a saw ported buy by sending it off u can buy many more saws. I would like to meet u one day and get some more experience from you im glad that i came across your youtube along time ago.
You remind me of the guy I have bought my MS362 from. The saw was used with very few hours. He has many professional Stihl saws, and runs an old-timer tractor club, under which name he organizes timber sport events.
He was very adamant in recommending to never get any "performance" work on the saw done, because the engineers at Stihl put many hours into developing the saw to its highest potential in power as well as reliability. He even recommended to never put any non-OEM parts on the saw, as those could also alter reliability.
Would like to see your in-depth review of the MS362.
Regards from Slovenia, N
There’s a few things in life that really tickle me brunettes,diesel, and sharp tools
Appreciate your thoughts on having a saw ported, you are so right the focus should be on getting the basics right like a sharp chain.
Blows my mind on how so many people insist on running dull or "sharp enough" chain. A sharp chain increases your HP by at least 0.5!
Most of the saw manufacturers have a recommended bar length and chain type. For the ms362 it's 20in. A 24in will fit, just under stand chain speed will suffer under load. No one recommends dull chain. Take time to sharpen to make time cutting. Your saw will cut better and last longer.
Mods for my Stihl saws. Most have an air filter change. Max filter or foam wrap with oil.
Time for the MS462 Tim. For fun try the 462 “Rescue” chainsaw. STIHL chainsaws with an (R) designation are equipped with a wrap-around handle. I may try to build a 500I in 2022 .
Please keep in mind, I'm not a logger, just a guy in the northwest who feeds a wood stove. I love my 362 with a 26" bar, it is up graded with Stihl full wrap handle bar and bigger dogs, and the chain oiler is wide open. That saw is a beast when used as intended. That said, I really wish I had a 461. A properly sharpened chain is obviously key, I like mine a little hungry.
I'm still trying to master the chain sharpening. I do pretty good through most of the chains life but I have a couple older chains I need to give up on. I busted out laughing when you started cutting that first limb. I think it was sycamore but not sure. It went through it like a hot knife on butter. I am a weekend warrior on cutting. Have the husky 562xp. Love the saw but last weekend after 4 hours limbing out a huge pine, I was about done for. 20 inch bar is about 5 inches short of reaching the whole way through at the base. had to chop each limb in 2 to load onto the forks of our tractor. That is when I really appreciate watching your kubota and miss piggy work.
Dan watch Buckin Billy. His “Baby C” 1/8” cut above gullet and his 45degree square ground cut, especially on a skip chain are deadly. 🎉
Oh my goodness 40 years ago we were running aviation fuel and gasoline. In our two-cycle dirt bikes! My friend's dad work for Willow run airport in Michigan! He was a mechanic when they do a service on an airplane all the fuel was taking out! They would just dump it out into a 55 gallon drum. Well! He would bring it home. Guess what we ran in our lawn mowers motorcycles everything. You had to make it 50/50. With gasoline. Or you'd burn a hole in the top of your piston.
Yes Tim that’s the first thing about a saw is it’s gotta have a sharp chain!
My 252 is my go to, but my 362 is a beast. First time I used it I said to myself, "I need some damn pants". I use it for big oaks. Saves time.
thank you for the video. Yes, my MS 362 is fantastic, and all who use it agree, , , ,I hope you have a good one. within 100 hours of operation, three ignition modules failed. (I am not abusing it). I think I'll switch it back to a conventional carb and coil.
Thomas, do you always let your saw idle and cool down before you shut the engine off? I think running a saw full throttle (getting it very hot) and then cutting the ignition can cause the ignition module to retain a lot of heat and eventually cooks it to failure.
@@PencilProper I let it run to cool down, IF it runs.
Whew, now that's cutting
Damn. That thing runs like a scalded dog. Sounds crisp.
ABSOLUTELY!!! A Sharp Chain Is All You Need!!!💯🌲💯🌲💯🌲❤️
If y’all like STIHL then an 044,064,or 066 version might be in order. Equipped with the KS cylinder version (as opposed to mahle) they run close to a ported saw with a good muffler mod and a velocity-stack. True “muscle saws” that do not have the EPA - friendly restrictions like the modern versions (stratos charged) do. Sure they may drink a fuzz more fuel but they pull like the 7 horses of hell! If ya want even more a righteous port-job on top of the muffler and velocity stack and you’ve got a helluva unit that’ll put the hurt on a modern saw something fierce ...They also run cooler and will LAST longer than a new version. Of course, with a poorly prepared chain we ain’t goin nowhere no matter what the saw 😉
Just sitting here In Tasmania Australia loving your videos and had a thought as I am not able to attend one of your classes could you talk about whether you should just run a new chain or should you do some file work on it first. And what is the first signs that your chain needs work as the last chain I sharpened a long time ago cut like a dish LOL. just some thoughts I was having while watching a good video as always. P.S: need more cotonwood LOL.
Well that's the way they used to do cargo airplanes. Back in the seventies. We had an endless supply of high octane aviation fuel.
Good stuff Tim, You were cutting like a hot knife through butter:):)
Great advice on porting. If one needs a little more power, they should start with a good bar and chains, , ,and sharpening. if one still needs more power, get a bigger, (or modern) piece of equipment. I port for a hobby, but to be real, there is no way one can port an old 028 to be better than a new 362 The 362 starts easier, runs better (if it runs). I started 50 years ago, when calling these things 2 -SMOKE engines was accurate. The new ones are clean fast and (not mine) reliable.
You are spot on in your comment, good stuff.
A quarter gallon of aviation fuel. to 3/4 a gallon of premium gasoline! 40 to mixture two-cycle oil. Well when I was younger. One gallon of aviation fuel. To 4 gallons of gas. Any kind of gas. Then add your 2-cycle motor oil into it.
Well it was like 1974 when we were mixing up our gas combinations with aviation fuel regular gas in our dirt bikes and chainsaws
Good old Sthil runs like a dream!!!
Kermit the frog should fear for his life😂. That saw cuts!
That combo is great
that 362 eats, how do you like it compared to the 550xp mk2
Great advice, its hard to cut with a dull axe and 💪 won't push it through
Love West Coast Bark Box, but the Performance SS dual pipe system seems to give me more power and less noise.
How do you determine what length you cut the pieces? They seem longer than most I've seen. Good video.
Good observation. Most people cut around 16" because that will fit in most stoves. Those cuts are putting them around 18-20" if I had to guess. Might be moreso for an open fireplace so it can take the larger pieces. Unless he just sells it or uses it as outside burns firewood.
I just bought a new 362 and I love it, any tips about it ?
I have a lower opinion on some of these lightweight Japanese bars. Yes, they are easier to work with. But, my experience is that regular steel bars of high quality make and steel cut better and are easier to use because the heavier front end under load sinks better with gravity action into the wood making the cuts faster. Just my opinion and yes I do have a Japanese bar..
Yeah, I've always said the best mod you can do is have a sharp chain. Right on.
Your spot on about chain, hand filed or on the grinder if your not proficient at it, the extra hp or torque u get from a ported saw u just wasted your money.
IMHO the Oregon XL chain cuts much better and is butter smooth compared to the RS chain.
Here on the west coast of Canada big wood, cedar, fir, and hemlock, when you are trying to finish your undercut from the same side and you flip that saw over to finish the RS chain bucks and chatters like a mother trying to get that cut started again, the XL is much smoother in that regard. The RS chain is also real sensitive on the raker depth u go crazy and it will tear you up chattering so bad again the XL much more forgiving. Buckin’ Billy Ray did a vid both new chain out of the box and the XL is faster then the RS in fir could be a completely different story in hard woods.
As for port work on a saw go after the torque, sacrifice a little on the peak HP and who cares that u have a saw the streams to 13,500 plus all these news saw make peak power between 9000-9500 rpm’s broaden that torque curve out and that saw will pull like a freight train and you have yourself a everyday work saw that has the same reliability as a non ported saw. I’d recommend the legend Donny Walker from Walkers saw shop here on Vancouver Island, build strong saws that work everyday in the bush.
That's a sharp one for sure.
I'm working on my 33RS chains as well getting much better after the class
It's all in the fileing !
Will the 107 gas alone hurt the saw ?
MS 362C 👏🏼👏🏼🥇🥇🥇🥇👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Working more and more on sharpening. Believe a sharp chain makes a saw work. Not just the number cc's or how much it's souped up. Have a Safe Day
Tim can make that ol stihl eat.
Boa tarde muito top serviço meu amigo
I sharpened my own chainsaws chains!
Damn that thing rips! My 362 doesn't sound like that. Looks like the muffler is different on first look. But yeah, makes me want to go cut some wood!
It’s got a bark box on it. Lots of videos about those and they don’t seem to make a big difference by themselves but in combination with other improvements it may matter.
On a airplane comes in for service I'm talking a prop airplane. They drain all the fuel tanks! It's considered junk fuel. That's how we got so much aviation fuel.
Full cut jizzle chain should cut the same all the time! Unless you put a different kind of.
You can show up in the chain all you want it'll be cutting beautiful until you had a piece of steel!
Tim do you clean your saws after every job? I find that if I clean mine with an air compressor after each tree job they look and run like brand new but maybe that is excessive.
A clean saw runs 10 to 15° cooler than a dirty saw I used to ride dirt bikes and I still cut a lot of firewood with husky and still chainsaws blow them off every time I get done and make some last longer and clean the air filter maintenance is your friend
Well we found out after everything blew up because we were running too much aviation fuel. It was free. Okay. Well 50/50 aviation fuel regular gas! Then add your oil. Everything ran good
Did I sharpen That? You went to0 fast for me to see the chips..... HA HA
You are using a leaded has mix?
Awesome
Well the Saw's nowadays I don't think they could handle aviation fuel. Boom bang by blow up
HUSQVARNA ❤❤❤❤
STIHL? Ehhhh
Love from DeKalb Mississippi USA 🇺🇸
Awesome video. Finally got caught up
Hi octane fuel is really actually pointless in two stroke engines
My chainsaw has a lot of power! When you hit steel. You're pretty much f***! Time to change the chain. That's what I bring three or four extra chains for each bar!
In my area here in Ohio I can still get aviation fuel
👍
so almost wonderful beautiful video friend i love it see
Hey man I'm looking at a getting a bigger saw. If it was up to you, would you pick an older 372xp (in really good shape) for $500 or a new MS362 for $800?
372
The 372xp at that price, wow! I've just done the conversion to pounds Stirling. If it's good buy it! Huskies 3 series saws xps great saws. Still have what was my late father's 354 and 395 xp. Fantastic saws, esp the 395 xp. Not sure if you are wanting this for work or home use. But for many folks a good 372 xp is all of the saw you will ever need
@@jukeseyable the local tree service is dropping 27 trees on our property and I plan on cleaning it up. I don't feel like a ranch grade saw will hold up to all that.
@@Johnnyreengo buy the best tool that you can afford, one tip, get your self and your new saw decent quality 2 stroke oil, don't skimp on the cheap stuff. Huski engines are highly engineered bits of kit, they prefer decent oil. I'm guessing ur in the US, so can't advise on brands over there. But it shouldn't be to difficult to get hold of Husqvarna own brand. It's decent enough. A bit pricey, but not crazy money
@@Johnnyreengo one other thing, it's nearly xmas, treat urself to a nice new chain or 2. Not sure what species ur trees are. But on hardwood as a rule of thumb 1 hour optimal cutting, softwood 4 hrs before you should think about sharpening/ changing ur chain. It may not sound a lot. But trust me unless you are in very big stuff, you will get a lot of cutting done. Unless you are experienced with a saw, you are the limiting factor in productivity. Good luck, hope the work goes well for you.
Good Point! I have 2 ported saws but they are more toys than tools! All my worksaws are bone stock... run a 361 as my main with the exact same bar and chain 😍! And I get it if you put so many hours on a saw in a pro application that after 2 years it’s done it is not worth porting!
Btw what are your thoughts on aftermarket foam filters vs stock??
Greetings from Germany
Is 20 bars?
I have the 362c and the new 400c
I want the 400
fk yeah
Every 362 ive ran has been that M-tronic C-M and I’ve felt like throwing every single one of them through a wood chipper. Run a 462c that chews up any bucking I can throw at it. 362 is kind of too small to be big and too big to be small.
Humble opinion on size and use:
35-38cc top handles climbing/topping
MS201-CS355t
50cc limbing & small dbh falling/bucking
MS261
72-74cc bucking & medium dbh falling
MS462-372xp
94cc larger falling & large bucking
395xp-MS661
4 saw lineup can do pretty much all of it shy of old growth harvesting
You’ve fallen some hooters Cotontop you’d know better than I would. I’m miles and miles behind you in equipment and experience. ✌🏼
I’m stuck deciding between a 261 and new 400 for limbing
@@andrews2203 my main ground saw is a 261 with a 20” bar full chisel chain. I wouldn’t use it to buck up big timber but limbing and hacking up spars I wouldn’t need anything else. Super lightweight and easy on the tennis elbow. 👌🏼
Big saws are fun until you run them for 8-10 hours straight and can’t open a pickle jar at the dinner table.
Tim, I love your channel but I will respectfully disagree. Stock saws are held back by the restrictive exhaust, creating excess heat causing premature wear. An exceptional builder will make a more reliable modified saw. An exceptional builder will spend the time to know your application and build the saw accordingly. The price that you mentioned is highway robbery. Yes you are correct, there are less than a dozen that are the elite 1% that I trust. The exceptional builder know their limits and refer you to another exceptional builder should your asking be outside of their expertise. Happy cutting.👍
I’m talking about porting my friend. You have crossed over into another area that is simple to correct yourself.
Yes Sir, one of my ported saws is by a builder you mentiond in your class videos. He falls into the one out of a dozen I trust.
@@cotontop3 Hi Tim ... meet “The Humbler” a STIHL 064 muscle saw. They don’t make em like this anymore. That saw is 26yrs old and will cut circles around what “most” builders give ya for $500 - my work starts at 199.99 and I stand behind what I do! Heck I’ll build ya one for FREE if ya be kind enough to demo on your channel and give an honest report good or bad , pros or cons. I build em for TORQUE and don’t do any machine work to raise compression..... th-cam.com/video/QJyEg_V2g7s/w-d-xo.html
The best way to mod a saw is learn how to sharpen a saw. That 362 runs almost as good as a Hoosky, eh Tim?
Yeah, I guess it cuts o.k. I mean not too bad for your first time and all...
Haha, no, just joking. Pretty impressive actually.
I'll have to go through your videos and see if you have any on sharpening....
I'd like to use these guys to hop up a saw for me: (but probably just stay w stock saws too)
Donny Walker
Tinman
Hotsaws101
I like Ironhorse too.
That saw isn’t ported?…. All it has is a barkbox and a really sharp chain?
Correct.
I have that same saw! I'm going to get some 107 and mix a batch.
We are a leading company in household tool accessories.
Bad to the bone !
Hey buddy what exhaust are you running on the 362? Thank You in Advance
West coast saw bark box
@@cotontop3 yes sir I just found it on another video, Again Thank you.
Totally agree with you on sharpening and porting.
Tim u are right u can spend 500 or so to get a saw ported buy by sending it off u can buy many more saws. I would like to meet u one day and get some more experience from you im glad that i came across your youtube along time ago.
don't trust people with husky equipment
Tim have you check out the China saw at Lowes its gas only its blue in color $200:00
The Stihl are not as fast as the husky.
Every single model? Come on man.