Not all of the self-leveling compounds require metal lath. I know for certain that Henry 565 & LevelQuick do… but many of the Ardex and Mapei self-leveling compounds do not. It really depends on what the person is using and on what substrate
Thanks for this video brother will be putting laminate floors in, in a few days. Hope my floors level but most of the stuff they did to this house isn’t up to par. So I’ll prob be coming back on this Ty again!
No need to remind be them. Just pour the concrete level with the top of them and leave them. If one happens to stick out a little after, you could use a grinder to take it down to flush.
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I usually don't seal the seems that run along the joists Subfloor is most likely nailed or screwed tightly to joists and possibly glued so there is no risk of self leveling compound running through But seems that go across the joists, definitely
The metal lathe is per the manufacturers recommendation printed on the bag. I don’t know all of the reasons, but my assumption is it reinforces the concrete just like rebar would in a normal concrete pour to make it stronger and resist cracking and shifting.
You're one of the few people that followed the instructions and used a metal lath. Would a 1/8 pour be thick enough to encapsulate the lath? If you could link the lath you used, that would be appreciated!
I think you probably need 1/4” to cover the lath. I don’t think 1/8” will cover well. You might sneak by with 3/16”, but if using as the backer for direct laying tile on top, 1/4” minimum is recommended by the manufacturer. Here is the lath I used: Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing. www.homedepot.com/p/27-in-x-96-in-2-5-Metal-Lath-Galvanized-4113145/312485681
If you have a low spot, you can fill that part of the floor with self leveling underlayment. If you have a high spot, you would need to fill all of the low spots on the rest of the floor. Make sure that you are pouring directly on clean, primed concrete or exterior grade plywood for proper bonding. If I were doing the job, I would remove all of the laminate flooring to level the subfloor. Good luck and thanks for watching!
You could do it in either order, but I find it easier to measure height without the lathe in place first. It’s also much easier to work without crawling around on sharp metal lathe. If you switch the order, make sure you’re up to date on your tetanus shot!
The lath will prevent cracking, but you can’t use it with a skin coat (it would be thinner than the skin coat). Since you aren’t using it as a base for tile, you could probabaly get away without lath and going full thinkness, but I’ve never tried it.
I'm not claimiing it's the right way, but I had the same situation, and only put lath where it would be covered. beyond that it tapers with no lath. Will it hold? Only time will tell.
I set the laser level at what I thought was the high spot, the. Measured the height of the laser on a yard stick right next to the laser level. Measured other locations around the room to see if any were higher on the laser line. If the floor is clean and smooth, you can also use a level and move around until you find a point that the floor slopes away from in all directions. If you use a level, check to make sure that you don’t have more than one high spot. Thanks for watching!
Good question. There was lath on the whole floor, I cut it to fit in every nook and cranny. I think what you are seeing is some areas had two layers of lath and some were single. You need at least an inch of overlap, but in some areas I had much more because it was easier to have a lot of overlap than to cut each piece precisely for the minimum overlap.
Hi, my subfloor is too thin and is not leveled. I want to add a plywood, do i need to add leveler first or do i place the plywood first then use the leveler compound? Also, do i need to have the 1.25" subfloor under a bathtub or can I just leave that 3/4"? Thanks
Plywood first, then the leveler. Up to you wether you want to reinforce the floor under the tub. Should be fine either way. If not adding under the tub, I would suggest having the tub in place before applying the floor leveler.
@@brianherald5756 you could do either. If the tub is out, I would pour leveler across the whole floor. If tub is already in, I would just caulk between floor and tub and seal the part getting tile.
Im laying some plywood over OSB sub-floor to fill large areas then leveler to feather out. Installing laminate flooring. Cant imagine I need lath. especially since I'm feathering to zero and its just laminate?
If you are feathering in to fill small areas, you don’t want lath. It may be more likely to crack, but that shouldn’t be a problem under laminate. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!
If you are using this for LVP, maybe. If using this for tile, it’s necessary to ensure that it doesn’t crack later. I would rather have the overkill than a cracked floor.
The primer helps the self-leveling underlayment adhere and cure properly. It’s necessary for the brand I use. Read the instructions for whatever brand you plan to use and if they suggest a primer, make sure that you use the one they recommend. Note that the primer is a special primer for self-leveling underlayment and there are different dilution instructions depending on the type of subfloor. It is not standard painting primer. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!
Underlayment will only take care of very minor flatness issues. Must sub floors are not as flat as necessary for tile or LVP. If they aren’t flat, you can have issues with cracking of tiles or soft spots in a floating floor. The soft spots can lead to breakage of the locking mechanism of the planks and then gaps in the floor.
It depends on how far out of level and flat your floor is (the further out the more you will need. Estimate the average thickness that you will pour, then use the chart here to estimate how many bags you will need (www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/levelquik-rs-rapid-setting-self-leveling-underlayment). Always buy some extra bags. This stuff sets fast, so you won’t have time to go buy more before the first batch sets. You can return the excess. As a rule of thumb maximum coverage for a bag is about 1 sheet of plywood (32 sq ft) at 1/8" thick.
Start by calculating the square footage and the average thickness that you will pour. Then use the chart here to estimate how many bags you will need (www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/levelquik-rs-rapid-setting-self-leveling-underlayment). Always buy some extra bags. This stuff sets fast, so you won’t have time to go buy more before the first batch sets. You can return the excess. As a rule of thumb maximum coverage for a bag is about 1 sheet of plywood (32 sq ft) at 1/8" thick.
If the holes go all of the way through the subfloor, yes. If that’s the case, you will need to seal the holes using caulk, or add a thin layer of luan to the sub floor.
It’s actually recommended by the manufacturer if you are going over a wood floor. I’d rather install the lath and not actually need it than skip it and have a cracked floor later.
With Level Quick RS, you can lay tile directly as long as you reinforce it with steel and pour at least 1/4” thick. Over two years later and my 32” square tile that I laid on this floor looks great.
Yes, you should use it everywhere if using LevelQuik RS as a backer for tile. If you are using a different product to just fill in the low spots for LVP, you may be able to get away without it, check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the product you plan to use.
@@gateslattes4686 because I was using the floor lever as my backing for tile (and not adding another layer like HardieBoard, I used the lath everywhere and poured everything at least 1/4” thick.
You are the only video that follows manufacture specs and installs the metal lath! I was thinking to omit it, but now im doing it right!
It’s my own house, I don’t want to take a shortcut and regret it later. Two years and no issues. Thanks for watching!
Not all of the self-leveling compounds require metal lath. I know for certain that Henry 565 & LevelQuick do… but many of the Ardex and Mapei self-leveling compounds do not. It really depends on what the person is using and on what substrate
I have to add; mix exactly. Measure precise.
Absolutely!
Thanks for this video brother will be putting laminate floors in, in a few days. Hope my floors level but most of the stuff they did to this house isn’t up to par. So I’ll prob be coming back on this Ty again!
Good luck with the laminate floors, thanks for watching.
Super! Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Hi, I just saw this. I thought it was a great video. Quick question though, at what point did you take your depth screws out?
No need to remind be them. Just pour the concrete level with the top of them and leave them. If one happens to stick out a little after, you could use a grinder to take it down to flush.
@@NateFixesItThat makes sense! Thanks for the quick response
@@Ryan_Wimmer19no problem, good luck with your project!
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I usually don't seal the seems that run along the joists
Subfloor is most likely nailed or screwed tightly to joists and possibly glued so there is no risk of self leveling compound running through
But seems that go across the joists, definitely
Howdy. I didn't catch the reason/purpose of the metal lathe screening used in this video. Why do you do that?
Thanks,
Drew
The metal lathe is per the manufacturers recommendation printed on the bag. I don’t know all of the reasons, but my assumption is it reinforces the concrete just like rebar would in a normal concrete pour to make it stronger and resist cracking and shifting.
You're one of the few people that followed the instructions and used a metal lath. Would a 1/8 pour be thick enough to encapsulate the lath? If you could link the lath you used, that would be appreciated!
I think you probably need 1/4” to cover the lath. I don’t think 1/8” will cover well. You might sneak by with 3/16”, but if using as the backer for direct laying tile on top, 1/4” minimum is recommended by the manufacturer. Here is the lath I used: Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.
www.homedepot.com/p/27-in-x-96-in-2-5-Metal-Lath-Galvanized-4113145/312485681
@@NateFixesIt Thanks for the helpful info!
Metal Lath is not needed with LATICRETE NXT SKIM LITE, just a pro-tip for you.
Hi Nate, we got a big hump on my laminate floor, can we just take that hump part off, put some self-level concrete to level it? Thank you
If you have a low spot, you can fill that part of the floor with self leveling underlayment. If you have a high spot, you would need to fill all of the low spots on the rest of the floor. Make sure that you are pouring directly on clean, primed concrete or exterior grade plywood for proper bonding. If I were doing the job, I would remove all of the laminate flooring to level the subfloor. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@NateFixesIt Thank you very much for the suggestion. It's really helpful.
@@linsun2591 no problem!
Why wouldn't you put the metal lath down before you put screws in to set height of self leveler to make sure it's flat and level?
You could do it in either order, but I find it easier to measure height without the lathe in place first. It’s also much easier to work without crawling around on sharp metal lathe. If you switch the order, make sure you’re up to date on your tetanus shot!
Do I really need lath for luxury vinyl? I will go from 1/2 inch to skim coat. Maybe I should just use Henry 555.
The lath will prevent cracking, but you can’t use it with a skin coat (it would be thinner than the skin coat). Since you aren’t using it as a base for tile, you could probabaly get away without lath and going full thinkness, but I’ve never tried it.
I'm not claimiing it's the right way, but I had the same situation, and only put lath where it would be covered. beyond that it tapers with no lath. Will it hold? Only time will tell.
would this work on osb subfloor too?
The manufacturer’s specs say that it is suitable for “exterior grade plywood and OSB”. www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-108.pdf
Thanks for the great how-to! What method do you use to find the high point of the floor?
I set the laser level at what I thought was the high spot, the. Measured the height of the laser on a yard stick right next to the laser level. Measured other locations around the room to see if any were higher on the laser line. If the floor is clean and smooth, you can also use a level and move around until you find a point that the floor slopes away from in all directions. If you use a level, check to make sure that you don’t have more than one high spot. Thanks for watching!
@@NateFixesIt that helps, thank you!
@@wtdonovan good luck!
Hi Nate, What do you do with the pink perimeter when you're done? Cut it even to the floor?
Yes, use a utility knife to cut it even with the floor. Thanks for watching!
it seems your poring over non lath sections ,,whats up there ?
Good question. There was lath on the whole floor, I cut it to fit in every nook and cranny. I think what you are seeing is some areas had two layers of lath and some were single. You need at least an inch of overlap, but in some areas I had much more because it was easier to have a lot of overlap than to cut each piece precisely for the minimum overlap.
Hi, my subfloor is too thin and is not leveled. I want to add a plywood, do i need to add leveler first or do i place the plywood first then use the leveler compound? Also, do i need to have the 1.25" subfloor under a bathtub or can I just leave that 3/4"? Thanks
Plywood first, then the leveler. Up to you wether you want to reinforce the floor under the tub. Should be fine either way. If not adding under the tub, I would suggest having the tub in place before applying the floor leveler.
@@NateFixesIt thank you for your response
@@fixit9888 thanks for watching!
@@NateFixesItwhy should the tub be set before the floor leveler is done?
@@brianherald5756 you could do either. If the tub is out, I would pour leveler across the whole floor. If tub is already in, I would just caulk between floor and tub and seal the part getting tile.
What was your square footage for those 37 bags?
About 400 ft^2 at an average depth of about 1/2” if I remember correctly.
Im laying some plywood over OSB sub-floor to fill large areas then leveler to feather out. Installing laminate flooring. Cant imagine I need lath. especially since I'm feathering to zero and its just laminate?
If you are feathering in to fill small areas, you don’t want lath. It may be more likely to crack, but that shouldn’t be a problem under laminate. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!
And after you install your tiles with thinset, and no problem
Installed tile two years ago, thinset directly on the floor leveler, no problems at all!
Isn't the metal lath overkill?
If you are using this for LVP, maybe. If using this for tile, it’s necessary to ensure that it doesn’t crack later. I would rather have the overkill than a cracked floor.
Do you need primer?
The primer helps the self-leveling underlayment adhere and cure properly. It’s necessary for the brand I use. Read the instructions for whatever brand you plan to use and if they suggest a primer, make sure that you use the one they recommend. Note that the primer is a special primer for self-leveling underlayment and there are different dilution instructions depending on the type of subfloor. It is not standard painting primer. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!
@@NateFixesIt Thanks Nate!
Won't the underlay of the timber floor even out the uneveness of the subfloor ?
Underlayment will only take care of very minor flatness issues. Must sub floors are not as flat as necessary for tile or LVP. If they aren’t flat, you can have issues with cracking of tiles or soft spots in a floating floor. The soft spots can lead to breakage of the locking mechanism of the planks and then gaps in the floor.
How many bags on a 200 sqf room ?
It depends on how far out of level and flat your floor is (the further out the more you will need. Estimate the average thickness that you will pour, then use the chart here to estimate how many bags you will need (www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/levelquik-rs-rapid-setting-self-leveling-underlayment). Always buy some extra bags. This stuff sets fast, so you won’t have time to go buy more before the first batch sets. You can return the excess.
As a rule of thumb maximum coverage for a bag is about 1 sheet of plywood (32 sq ft) at 1/8" thick.
Why did you use caulk if you are using the sill seal around the perimeter. Also, what caulk did you use to seal the seams between the boards?
Cost around $4 per sq.ft. for 1/4", you can also level with thinset
You can fill low spots with thin set, but it won’t be as flat and level as pouring the liquid self-leveler
hello. what do you do with the nails after? do you go back and pull them out?
The screws that I used as depth gauges just stay in the concrete. Thanks for watching!
How did you calculate how many bags you would need?
Start by calculating the square footage and the average thickness that you will pour. Then use the chart here to estimate how many bags you will need (www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/levelquik-rs-rapid-setting-self-leveling-underlayment). Always buy some extra bags. This stuff sets fast, so you won’t have time to go buy more before the first batch sets. You can return the excess.
As a rule of thumb maximum coverage for a bag is about 1 sheet of plywood (32 sq ft) at 1/8" thick.
Just realized that the leveling compound will likely run through all the little holes left by tearing up the previous owners' tile job. Hmmmm....
If the holes go all of the way through the subfloor, yes. If that’s the case, you will need to seal the holes using caulk, or add a thin layer of luan to the sub floor.
Metal lath is a little overkill don't you think?
It’s actually recommended by the manufacturer if you are going over a wood floor. I’d rather install the lath and not actually need it than skip it and have a cracked floor later.
I better use hardie baker and then use self leveling
You lost me with the laser level stuff.
You can’t lay tile directly over floor leveler
With Level Quick RS, you can lay tile directly as long as you reinforce it with steel and pour at least 1/4” thick. Over two years later and my 32” square tile that I laid on this floor looks great.
Do u use a metal lath everywhere?
Thanks
Yes, you should use it everywhere if using LevelQuik RS as a backer for tile. If you are using a different product to just fill in the low spots for LVP, you may be able to get away without it, check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the product you plan to use.
I mean where did u use it?
Anything above a 1/4 inch u would put the steel mesh?
Thanks
@@gateslattes4686 because I was using the floor lever as my backing for tile (and not adding another layer like HardieBoard, I used the lath everywhere and poured everything at least 1/4” thick.