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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ต.ค. 2024
- This video shows the successful DIY repair of the cooling fan and pull-start pawls on a Troy-Bilt 6044 XP string trimmer. This unit and similar models by MTD, Craftsman, etc. have problems with the oil pan assembly cooling fan and the attached pawls for the pull start. The fan is not available as a separate part. One must buy the entire oil pan assembly, or try to fix it yourself.
I have the same trimmer. The pull start sucks and I went with the drill adapter to start it. One day I was trimming and BOOM engine stops abruptly. The fan broke in a few places and cut into the oil fill tube. I tried running without the fan, engine gets very hot and smokes. As others have said part#753-08503 is the cheapest way to get a fan, but you have to get oil pan assemble with it. Troy Bilt needs to give the fans out for FREE!!!
#&#! the oil pan. Sell just the $2 fan! Greedy people.
Bought mine and didn’t have it a year and it started this, now it won’t even let me jump start it. First time buying Troybilt and last time too.
happened to me too
You are correct. Sorry for not mentioning the notch. It's been so long since I did this project, I can't recall if there was a slot for the notch to fit into. I don't think there was because you'd think that would be sufficient to keep the fan from spinning loosely on the shaft.
Some words of advice. I bought a used TB685EC, starter did not work. Pulled off the starter and discovered the problem, damaged pawl mounts on the fan blade. The damage was likely caused by the owner just jerking the starter rope. Do not just jerk the starter. Slowly pull the starter rope until the starter engages, then give the rope a good pull. Jerking the rope forcefully without carefully engaging the starter first is asking for trouble. This is a common problem with many starters, even on small outboard motors, I've seen it a lot. Do not just jerk the rope and you will lessen the likelyhood of damaging the already junky starter.
Good advice
I'm going to crosspost this to the other repair video as well, it's long but please read:
I got one of these by sheer dumb (bad?) luck. I had already bought a few of the 27cc full crank Craftsman branded MTD 27cc 2 stroke trimmers, the one with no choke. They instead have a solenoid on the carburetor that is powered by the magneto ignition coil and often if primed correctly and using non-ethanol fuel will start and stay running on the very first pull even after being stored all winter. I got them from a now defunct fleaBay seller that sold store returns, taddwholesale. They screwed up and sent me one of these instead one of the times. Mine is a 2013 model that came without the recoil start assembly even being present and with the plastic pawls already broken. I had been using mine sans the recoil, IE just a bare spinning fan, until the thing killed the one way sprag clutch in the drill start bit and then the drill itself.
Now my thoughts as to the issues as observed on mine:
Obviously the whole cheap plastic cantilevered pawl on a stamped sheet metal fan disk thing that they pass off as a starter assembly is junk, but somehow it isn't the problem here since the same pawls in a stamped steel cup work fine on the 2 smoke.
The problem is at least twofold.
First this is not, I repeat, IS NOT a full crank trimmer despite having the starter on the back. The shaft coming out of the sump is not the crankshaft. If you remove the plastic oil filler assembly or the whole sump and look inside you will see that that fan and stub shaft assembly has a drilled metal counterweight that just slips over the crankpin next to the connecting rod on what is otherwise a run-of-the-mill half/cantilever crankshaft engine. I haven't removed the sump on mine because I don't want to wreck the gasket but if I did I'm sure it would come right off without removing the fan first. If this were a full crankshaft trimmer this wouldn't be possible. As a result of this the stub shaft that the fan is on has inadequate support bearings and so has some radial and rocking play to it that wouldn't exist if it were actually part of the crankshaft.
The second is that the engine has lots of compression, no compression release mechanism, at least nothing ever blipped one of the valves when I turned it by hand while measuring the valve lash, and being a handheld trimmer that they were trying to make as light as possible it doesn't have nearly enough flywheel inertia/weight to help get it past TDC compression without excessive strain on the start components.
To minimize the strain on them here is what I would do each time instead of just blindly yanking on the rope. Try to avoid fully winding up and binding the "Incredipull" start assist spring when the engine hits compression to minimize the strain on the pawls. Since I don't have the recoil for mine I have no further idea on how to actually accomplish this.
For the cordless drill start bit use a multi-speed gearbox drill set to the highest speed/lowest torque/reduction. This is how I broke my bit and drill, I used a single speed drill that turned too slow and the inertia of the motor and geartrain trying to supplement the lack of inertia of the engine's flywheel sent too much peak torque through the bit and broke both. When starting engage the start bit to the engine and either turn the engine by hand, by carefully gently squeezing the drill trigger, or pull the recoil slowly until just passed compression then pull the drill trigger as suddenly and fully as possible to try to build as much speed as you can before it hits the next compression stroke. I suppose that this would also apply when using the standalone Craftsman Speed Start AKA Troy-Bilt JumpStart starter unit.
I hope that this helps anyone who already has one of these trimmers.
Thanks for your insights. I haven't cracked one of these open yet and so didn't know about the internal crankshaft design.
I agree, the compression is too much for the starting mechanism. There's too much strain --like hitting a brick wall at peak compression. When pull starting, I do as suggested and gently sneak passed full compression before giving a good yank. I'm sure these parts won't last. My kid gave me one of the drill adapters with an integrated bearing. But seriously, you shouldn't need a power tool to start your portable power tool! Lol!
Look at the center of the fan there is a notch that goes on the crankshaft you did not mention.
so did you use a split lock washer with the star washer and maybe some thread locker .I have the same trimmer and my start adapter that holds the fan on keeps coming loose .what worked for you. Thanks great video
Where can i get a cooling fan assy., to fit a Tb 685ec 4-stroke trimmer?
do you know where i can buy the fan? or what is the part #
I need the fan and pawls-springs.
Is the fan supposed to catch the plastic housing of the pull cord? I fixed the tension of my pull cord, but it won't start. It's definitely not catching something. 🤔
Same problem.😐
YOU HAVE TO WELD TRIANGULAR GUSSETS IN THE BACK OF THE FAN TO FIX THIS. IF IT HAS A STRESS CRACK, MODIFY A NEW ONE WITH ADDITIONAL SUPPORT, OR STRAIGHTEN FAN AND DOGS FIRST, THEN TIG OR MIG WELD PLATES ON BACK. TEST FIT FIRST AND HOLD GUSSETS IN PLACE WITH LOCKING PLIERS OR C-CLAMPS BEFORE YOU DRAW A WELD BEAD.FOLLOW EASY PULL INSTRUCTIONS BELOW ON THIS POST. YOU CAN USE THE OLD FAN, CUT UP 1/3 DIAMETER TRIANGLES AS THE GUSSETS, TAKE THE BLADES OFF THE GUSSET BLANKS.
I suppose they dont offer just the fan assy? Profit wouldnt be enough.
Same issue exactly. Criminal not to offer replacement parts.
Also need spring
On my TB32EC the crankshaft is hitting on something. Help
Where can I order those small prints?? Can’t find them anywhere
Do you know where I could find a replacement fan with springs for my TB6044XP
This please!!
Thanks for the video. How do you replace the springs on that spindle
Wow, I just saw this a year late. IDK if you can buy those springs. The whole mechanism is awful. I've got a similar one and the springs are so weak they release unless I pull the cord gently. I drives me nuts. All of these were given to me. If I ever buy one it'll probably be an Echo brand.
Anywhere I can reorder the fan? Mine completely broke beyond repair?
I've not been able to find one anywhere except scavenging parts.
I couldn't find the TB6044 XP on the Troy-Built site but I chatted with a guy on there. PN: 753-08503 for the whole oil pan assembly which comes with the fan and prawls.
and it only costs $31.99 from Troy-Built. This video shows excellent mechanical skills but I would guess that most people would like to see a full replacement of the oil pan assembly. It appears it can be directly accessed once you pull off the starter assembly (after one drains the oil first). So I'll just guess my way through that unless I can find another video that shows it.
@@mikemyers2047 Thanks for the info! I couldn't find the oil pan assembly for that cheap. I'll look for it, and if I get one I'll do a video on how to do the replacement. Friends and neighbors have given me several more broken units --sadly this defect is very common.
Dumb Luck definitely a common problem I would call it a manufacturer’s defect.
Hi what length and diameter is the pull cord? thanks
Sorry, I don't know. I repaired that unit and gave it away. I looked on Amazon and lots of trimmers use 3 mm cord.
I have a Troy built model TB 6044XP. Has had very little use mainly because it’s always broken. Had the pull start repaired once and is now broken a second time. I will never buy anything Troy built again it’s junk.
the fan broke on my 8044 trimmer.... can i just get the fan.. MTD is telling me i need to order the short block for $80 + .. what if i eliminate the fan? does it really matter?
If you eliminate the fan, it surely will overheat, and damage the engine.
that allen is actually a # T-8 torx
Pull start and fan busted twice. Junk model
Mines broke after maybe 8 months of ownership. I Shoulda bought stihl :(
Mine is leaking oil through the air filter. Any ideas? TB6040 XP. Thanks.
This is normal for the fourstrokes. It is part of the PCV system for emissions. It is the positive pressure of the crankcase pushing out oil through the pcv hose that is attached to the air filter. This is normal operation.
@@brandonwellz007 The oil is so much that the foam filter is soaked in oil. At that rate will be needed to be refilled more often. Also, not sure how can then it breathe like that. Regarless, I will try not to get good clothes on when using.
It is few years old, but like new. My daugher bought me a Crafstman, but I taught the Troy-Bilt was the professional type.
Will assembled then and use. Thanks a lot for the comments.
@@k2icc I had the same issue. Added to much oil. Remove some oil and you should be good.
*I have used Stihl for over 20 years 🌴 **allabout.wiki/Troy** and after reading some reviews of this trimmer, I tried Troy-Bilt , and I'm going to switch. Compared to several Stihl trimmers I've had, this one is easier to start, quieter, and feels at least as well built . A major plus is it doesn't have the wonky, always leaking, complicated gas tank caps that Stihl has.*