i got it checked by a mechanic and he told me the leak was from back of the engine and said it was no big deal. I was so anxious and started looking online. So glad i found your video because it was the exact same issue. I can't imagine the damage if i had left that for too long.
Exactly what i want. I got all water hoses and both plastic pipes. Today im going to change them. Thanks for the video :) Ps: All water hoses and plastic pipes have to be changed every 4-5 years or 60 - 80 000 miles because the engine works 105-115 C° temperature of water cooling and 2 bar pressure.
It worked without removing the manifold, I just unscrewed the collar and replaced it in the process. When someone else does it, I removed the cabin filter housing, which helped with unscrewing the second bolt and putting it back on. The first one can be unscrewed between the manifold and the alternator. Instead of disconnecting the cable going to the cabin at the throttle body, it's better to disconnect it at the cabin and remove it altogether (mine was tightly seized and couldn't be removed under the manifold). The remaining two came off easily, only the one going upwards had the old throttle body socket in the harness, which I simply squeezed together with the harness and it came out. The old throttle body also broke off at the engine along with the gasket, so it had to be gently chipped away. When installing the new one, a tip is to attach a deeper screw to the thread, it's worth sticking it to your thumb with tape and inserting it like that, then use a small ratchet directed towards the cabin side to tighten it because that's the only way to reach it. It was a bit tricky and surely it's better to remove the manifold for the job, but I wanted to try it out for fun. If I were to do it again, it would definitely be quicker.
Thanks for adding these tips to the comments, I think it will help others also. Interesting that yours also was almost gone, so I think its a must for anyone with an older BMW to do.
I have a 2004 318i engine ready to fit, but first before I install it I will replace this part, first remove the oil filter housing and cooler, this makes much easier access to the pipe, that also give you the opportunity to run cleaner thru the oil cooler as they can gum up with bits of worn off chain guides, the seals for the housing and cooler are less that 20 dollars and ez to do.
thank you - same situation and also I hope my engines head gasket wont be broken after change the two plastic pipes. my engine is the 16v version so less space to reach that sections behind the engine 😔 keep your fingers crossed for me...will start the work next week
I cant find the hose part number on Real OEM because they dont how it at all. Can some1 pls help. I need that one that goes from engine to electric valve. On 5:42 that hose you grabbed i cant find that part number, can you tell me what it is ?
Whenever I replace the Block flange (the one below the inlet manifold), it is helpful to remove the oil filter (and cap) then cover it with a clean rag, as it opens up some more space for your hand to remove the painful bolts below the plastic pipe....also, the good thing about both of the flanges that are replaced in this video, is they are not expensive parts, and if you are ever doing a job that give you access to either of them... replace them while you can... the part is cheap, but the labour to do it is not.... do it if you can..... The last thing is the Allen key head on the rear bolt for the block flange IS better than the standard bolt, so it pays to have both as Allen key bolts, rather than hex head bolts, as they are easier to remove in the tight space.
Excellent post with great advice. I think this is critical, just do an ENTIRE coolant service including these plastic unions. Thanks for adding the the knowledge base :)
@@sailing_tassies_adventures thanks mate, much appreciated. Mine is currently on 150k and I’m worried about this. I think I should get this done in good time. Thanks again.
I have a 316ti in Hobart that is leaking from the back of the engine(ish) Could be either of these problems. Thanks for the video. Might pull that back cover off tomorrow and have a look down there.
If its leaking coolant then its either that or the hoses to the heater matrix. Either way pull the cover off and have a look. White stains on hoses will be the telltale sign.
I got this engine or a close variant, M43B18 on my E34. After 200k km these plastic coolant pipes are as tender as corn bread. Mine broke in an explosion of steam. 6$ parts and it's all good.
@@rovertasmania7033 I read your response to other comment right after posting mine and was able to find it thanks to that site, very cool actually. The BMW Z3 version for that hose seems to be rare, without such a parts list it’s literally impossible to find. Thanks!
Not to complain but I feel your pain. Darn BMWs you would think that they would figure out a better way rather that using the plastic that goes brittle after a while. Same here in Los Angeles. Those plastic bits lead to catastrophic failure. Have a 540i and the o-ring failed that goes between the engine mount bracket and the block. Leaked oil everywhere. Took eight hours to replace a $5.00 o-ring. Why did BMW design an engine that has an open oil galley that needs sealing by the engine mount bracket? Totally stupid! Maybe it’s deliberate so we’ll buy a new one every 10 years.
One must remember that Euro cars where only designed to last a certain amount of kilometres (mileage)... I think 100K klm or less. So when a vehicle starts to get older than that, components fail as they where not designed for it. In Australia cars are used for hundreds of thousands of kilometres (easy to see over 400k on the clock), maybe the same in the US. But yes, plastic parts mixed with engine heat cycles is the worst combo. Wish they kept it simple like the old days. All the best.
@@rovertasmania7033 My bmw 318i has 326000 on the clock and never had any major issues. Like every car it needs proper maintenance. Only issue is that with this Australian heat the exterior plastics fade easy.
They are a good car, very comfortable and drives beautifully. Only biggest weakness is cooling system - so hoses and rad, plus as this vid shows. Low KS would be the best, with service history. I only speak for the 318i of course, cant comment on other models.
That's the exact model I'm looking for, it's readily available in my location (Panama), I'm being offered a 95k km 318i for 3 grand (dollars) which seems like a pretty good deal to me
@@TheDoomCore Thats pretty good, but why so low kilometers for a 20 year old car? Has it only been driven on weekends? Check condition of interior, make sure headliner isnt sagging. Else yes not bad price.
M43 is old school engine with minimum of electronics - if you take care of cooling system, with regular maintenance you will drive it for a thousands happy miles😉
I hate this engine ! i have one of my e46 and with many problem which I solved he still has !Terrible engine I changed the water pump, also in terms of hoses and connectors cylinder head gasket and rectified and still has problems with cooling if I step on the floor acceleration when I change my car and it will be soon I will have to go somewhere in a field outside the city until I start its engine
@@dadaddymak I think in Europe cars never see more than 100k klms due to emission controls, so in fact the design is fit for purpose over there, not here.
@@rovertasmania7033 can you give me some advice on wat needs to be removed to get in to a better position of removing the connector? Also check out the footage i just uploaded on this same part.. not sure if its coming from the connector or the head.. check out the video and tell me wat you think.. also is it a number 10 your using to remove these bolts?
@@dadaddymak Thats an interesting leak! Are you sure it isnt coming from the hose below, under pressure streaming it out? If it was the head there would be more issues, like pressurised expansion tank. Look closely underneath if you can, or using a mechanics mirror. I wouldnt remove anything until you get to the source of the leak. Cant remember the bolt size, could be 10mm.
Great video. Compression test kits are a must for anybody who owns a BMW.
i got it checked by a mechanic and he told me the leak was from back of the engine and said it was no big deal. I was so anxious and started looking online. So glad i found your video because it was the exact same issue. I can't imagine the damage if i had left that for too long.
Glad it helped, all the best.
Exactly what i want.
I got all water hoses and both plastic pipes.
Today im going to change them.
Thanks for the video :)
Ps:
All water hoses and plastic pipes have to be changed every 4-5 years or 60 - 80 000 miles because the engine works 105-115 C° temperature of water cooling and 2 bar pressure.
It worked without removing the manifold, I just unscrewed the collar and replaced it in the process. When someone else does it, I removed the cabin filter housing, which helped with unscrewing the second bolt and putting it back on. The first one can be unscrewed between the manifold and the alternator. Instead of disconnecting the cable going to the cabin at the throttle body, it's better to disconnect it at the cabin and remove it altogether (mine was tightly seized and couldn't be removed under the manifold). The remaining two came off easily, only the one going upwards had the old throttle body socket in the harness, which I simply squeezed together with the harness and it came out. The old throttle body also broke off at the engine along with the gasket, so it had to be gently chipped away. When installing the new one, a tip is to attach a deeper screw to the thread, it's worth sticking it to your thumb with tape and inserting it like that, then use a small ratchet directed towards the cabin side to tighten it because that's the only way to reach it. It was a bit tricky and surely it's better to remove the manifold for the job, but I wanted to try it out for fun. If I were to do it again, it would definitely be quicker.
Thanks for adding these tips to the comments, I think it will help others also. Interesting that yours also was almost gone, so I think its a must for anyone with an older BMW to do.
Thanks very much for this, helped me out fixing my son's beamer.
Thanks mate, this gave me the confidence to do the job.
All the best with it, just take your time ;)
I have a 2004 318i engine ready to fit, but first before I install it I will replace this part, first remove the oil filter housing and cooler, this makes much easier access to the pipe, that also give you the opportunity to run cleaner thru the oil cooler as they can gum up with bits of worn off chain guides, the seals for the housing and cooler are less that 20 dollars and ez to do.
Thank you so much! I had a same problem and you helped me to fix it!
Fantastic, glad it helped.
thank you - same situation and also I hope my engines head gasket wont be broken after change the two plastic pipes. my engine is the 16v version so less space to reach that sections behind the engine 😔 keep your fingers crossed for me...will start the work next week
All the best with it.
I cant find the hose part number on Real OEM because they dont how it at all. Can some1 pls help.
I need that one that goes from engine to electric valve. On 5:42 that hose you grabbed i cant find that part number, can you tell me what it is ?
www.realoem.com/ should have it, I looked through there. If not call a bmw supplier and ask for the p/n.
Whenever I replace the Block flange (the one below the inlet manifold), it is helpful to remove the oil filter (and cap) then cover it with a clean rag, as it opens up some more space for your hand to remove the painful bolts below the plastic pipe....also, the good thing about both of the flanges that are replaced in this video, is they are not expensive parts, and if you are ever doing a job that give you access to either of them... replace them while you can... the part is cheap, but the labour to do it is not.... do it if you can..... The last thing is the Allen key head on the rear bolt for the block flange IS better than the standard bolt, so it pays to have both as Allen key bolts, rather than hex head bolts, as they are easier to remove in the tight space.
Excellent post with great advice. I think this is critical, just do an ENTIRE coolant service including these plastic unions. Thanks for adding the the knowledge base :)
Does anyone know what to look up when ordering this part?
Great video 👏👏👏👏👏. How many kilometres did the car have, when this happened?
From memory about 300k
@@sailing_tassies_adventures thanks mate, much appreciated. Mine is currently on 150k and I’m worried about this. I think I should get this done in good time. Thanks again.
I have a 316ti in Hobart that is leaking from the back of the engine(ish) Could be either of these problems. Thanks for the video. Might pull that back cover off tomorrow and have a look down there.
If its leaking coolant then its either that or the hoses to the heater matrix. Either way pull the cover off and have a look. White stains on hoses will be the telltale sign.
@@rovertasmania7033 Thanks. I know the front is innocent 'cos I replaced all that about 3 yrs ago and it's as dry as...
Can The coolant be contaminated as a result?
In my case there was hardly any coolant left, it all got drained out when the pipe let go.
Do you have the part numbers?
Coolant Pipe - Rear of Cylinder Head _UR11531714738
Coolant Hose Connector - Underneath Intake Manifold FEB11 53 1 743 679
Thanks bro
Ur technics help me 🙏
How to change top gasket bmw e46 318i
I got this engine or a close variant, M43B18 on my E34. After 200k km these plastic coolant pipes are as tender as corn bread. Mine broke in an explosion of steam. 6$ parts and it's all good.
Any help on the part number of the hose you'r holding at 2:26 ? I need to replace mine but can't find the part number anywhere
You can get all part numbers in realoem.com Its a great site with diagras etc.
@@rovertasmania7033 I read your response to other comment right after posting mine and was able to find it thanks to that site, very cool actually. The BMW Z3 version for that hose seems to be rare, without such a parts list it’s literally impossible to find. Thanks!
@@maesitos All good, ,surprising how many people dont know such a great online resource exists! All the best.
@@rovertasmania7033 they could charge 10cents with Bitcoin in oder to disclose the part number.
Did you find it ? I went through a lot of schemes and can't seem to find it
what are the parts number for hoses ?
Coolant Pipe - Rear of Cylinder Head _UR11531714738
Coolant Hose Connector - Underneath Intake Manifold FEB11 53 1 743 679
Could you post links for the parts ?. Thank you very much.
I used an online parts finder to get the part numbers based on your year and model.
Thanks legend
Hi how do you get to the back bolt once top radiator hose flange and oil filter top ? What tools are used ?
I only used standard tools mate, just make it work and look at options.
Merci, from France
Hey can i get the link where you bought the connectors?? Thank you
I bought them from an independent euro car shop called Imparts.
hey anyone who can answer this, what is that part called or part number at 4:50?
11531708808
Hi Roger what happened with the landrover
Land Rover Series is still in the garage, waiting for some bits and pieces, but basically almost there.
Not to complain but I feel your pain. Darn BMWs you would think that they would figure out a better way rather that using the plastic that goes brittle after a while. Same here in Los Angeles. Those plastic bits lead to catastrophic failure. Have a 540i and the o-ring failed that goes between the engine mount bracket and the block. Leaked oil everywhere. Took eight hours to replace a $5.00 o-ring. Why did BMW design an engine that has an open oil galley that needs sealing by the engine mount bracket? Totally stupid! Maybe it’s deliberate so we’ll buy a new one every 10 years.
One must remember that Euro cars where only designed to last a certain amount of kilometres (mileage)... I think 100K klm or less. So when a vehicle starts to get older than that, components fail as they where not designed for it. In Australia cars are used for hundreds of thousands of kilometres (easy to see over 400k on the clock), maybe the same in the US. But yes, plastic parts mixed with engine heat cycles is the worst combo. Wish they kept it simple like the old days. All the best.
@@rovertasmania7033 My bmw 318i has 326000 on the clock and never had any major issues. Like every car it needs proper maintenance. Only issue is that with this Australian heat the exterior plastics fade easy.
Hy there...i've change the sale thing but i cant find that hose, the thick one that connect with clip. Cam u help me please!!!
The one in the back of the engine
Whats the name or ID of this hose which is attached to divider tee? I can't find it to buy it :(
Go to www.realoem.com/ to find the part numbers for everything! 👍
@@rovertasmania7033 Thx, it seems to be that I found it ! :)
Thanks
I'm thinking of buying one of these cars, how reliable has it been to you?
They are a good car, very comfortable and drives beautifully. Only biggest weakness is cooling system - so hoses and rad, plus as this vid shows. Low KS would be the best, with service history. I only speak for the 318i of course, cant comment on other models.
That's the exact model I'm looking for, it's readily available in my location (Panama), I'm being offered a 95k km 318i for 3 grand (dollars) which seems like a pretty good deal to me
@@TheDoomCore Thats pretty good, but why so low kilometers for a 20 year old car? Has it only been driven on weekends? Check condition of interior, make sure headliner isnt sagging. Else yes not bad price.
@@rovertasmania7033 well, the ones I've seen in my area are around 90-140k km, it seems to be a tendency to have such kms in my country (Panama)
M43 is old school engine with minimum of electronics - if you take care of cooling system, with regular maintenance you will drive it for a thousands happy miles😉
What a bugger mate
Sure is, especially when a shitty plastic part causes so much damage, BUT again my fault for not changing this out when I did the hoses.
Hello
Ahhhh cars....
I hate this engine ! i have one of my e46 and with many problem which I solved he still has !Terrible engine
I changed the water pump, also in terms of hoses and connectors cylinder head gasket and rectified and still has problems with cooling if I step on the floor acceleration
when I change my car and it will be soon I will have to go somewhere in a field outside the city until I start its engine
I hate these connectors
Agree! Although i guess they where not designed to last over 200k klm
@@rovertasmania7033 on purpose
@@dadaddymak I think in Europe cars never see more than 100k klms due to emission controls, so in fact the design is fit for purpose over there, not here.
@@rovertasmania7033 can you give me some advice on wat needs to be removed to get in to a better position of removing the connector? Also check out the footage i just uploaded on this same part.. not sure if its coming from the connector or the head.. check out the video and tell me wat you think.. also is it a number 10 your using to remove these bolts?
@@dadaddymak Thats an interesting leak! Are you sure it isnt coming from the hose below, under pressure streaming it out? If it was the head there would be more issues, like pressurised expansion tank. Look closely underneath if you can, or using a mechanics mirror. I wouldnt remove anything until you get to the source of the leak. Cant remember the bolt size, could be 10mm.
Your exploding pipes and the head gasket is because of a stuck thermostat !!!!
Stuck thermostat doesnt increase pressure in the system, only leads to overheat. No overheating prior, just plastic pipe failure.
did you fixed it or part it in the end ?
@@lexiaontube its all sorted replacing these pipes 👍
@@lexiaontube I fixed it, had it running but then sold it to get a 4x4
@@rovertasmania7033 and no videos on the fix?😞
en anglais ? rien à foutre !*
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