Tony! I was going to ask if you would adopt me, but then realized I'm too old. Instead, I propose that I come to your shop and look over your shoulder while drinking your beer (and occasionally silently judging your feeds and speeds).
What I did with my multiple Orange vises (3) is I took two long-ish strips of aluminum and bored a line of holes in them in to match up with the pin holes in the vises. That way I can not only keep them in a line, but also make the spacing between the vises exactly what I want. Seems to work, just something to think about.
You broke one of your golden rules when you set the work piece. Time for a new measure stick thingie. Hope you have a great day. Let me know if you ever come to Australia. The beer is on me
John, On your Haas you mentioned that you were traming all the vises in to each other. If you were holding a long part in all the vises I could see doing that. In the case of running separate parts in each vise you could and probably should run different fixture offsets on each vise (G54,G55,G56 Exc. You could probe this with your spindle probe) That way you wont have to worry that all the vises are in a line with each other, just parallel to the X axis.
Greg's Garage Bridgeports can hold under a .001. Tolerances that small comes down to the machinist more than the machine when doing a single part. Being able to repeat that tolerance 1,000 times over without a hitch comes down more to the machine.
I guess my naivety is this... I didn't think it would take that small of a movement in the software. Regardless, I'm impressed at fusion every time I uncover a new setting and I've been impressed with the Tormachs every time I see a part come out of them. Game changing stuff.
The more "open" 120° angle on spotting drills, helps a standard 118° drill make contact at the chisel point first. If the cutting lips are the first part of the drill to touch the edge of your starting hole, the drill is more likely to be pulled off centre. Drill tip, then lips. Of course, in practice, it might not matter in all applications.
Most run it "backwards" so you can chamfer the hole during the spot. In practical applications it seems to make very little difference unless you're requiring extremely tight TP or drilling deep. But that's why spots come in 120 and drills in 118.
What a great tip. If you plan and accurately depth your spot until the it's 2mm larger than the final hole, you'll have a fairly neat ~1mm 30° chamfer.
Tool comping is a way to sneak up but you have to remember to remove those afterwards and I don't like messing with tool setups for a simple job. If you have to make them again you have to remember to put the comp in. Too much trouble can happen. What I would suggest is in CAM run a bunch of profiles ops each taking a bit more off then put a pause in between each pass (I have a script for spindle off, front home position, then pause). That way you can measure and if you want more you just hit the start button to go to the next profile pass. Less running around to the CAM computer and posting to take a little more off. Bonus is you can add how much you are taking off in the comment of each pass and when you hit what you want you can see in the code then update the CAM with the desired offset. If you have to make more you don't have to worry about comp. Just a few thoughts. Andrew
I wonder if you could use a Loc-Line flare nozzle and some compressed air to keep a little area clean for the camera on the Haas window. I want to see more of that 150? ipm drilling op!
John, I noticed you set the tool height for the dovetail cutter after checking just one insert. I have a couple insert tools that have as much as .002 difference in the measured insert height. I have learned to measure all the inserts and use the tallest one for my height. I have not explored whether the difference is in the insert tolerance or seat position.
What I've found with polished inserts is that they work fine with other grades, but they aren't as efficient. Since steel can cut fast and heavy with a blunter edge, that's where its most efficient. The thinner "non-ferrous" edge makes it so you can take finer cleanup passes, but their fragility means you can't run fast and make an efficient thick chip
yeah, though in some cases its ideal. I only really cut ti and stainless and on my 770 at least, the sharper edge made for a much better finish and less HP used than the titanium-specific inserts. Cheaper, too, by a large amount
This may sound silly, but is there any reason you did not order a sub-plate from orange to fit the table? Then all you would need to do is indicate the plate to the machine. But then again for the price of a sub-plate it might be cheaper to indicate all the vises in one at a time. Another project which might slow you down, would be to build your own plate right on the machine. Then you know that the plate is as flat to the machine as it will ever be. Congrats on the new haas and keep up the great work!
Did you potentially miss a trick here? If you had mounted the jaws in the dovetails as they would be mounted in use then you could have been super-confident that the pockets were all at the same depth when mounted.
or if you switch out a hydraulic motor on a drill unit and forget to check the rotation b4 sending the drill and screw up a part. but one thing I have had in mind is using a cnc machine to where the tool paths are done in a way that it's art don't cut to remove material but to remove just enough to leave the tool path soon though once I get my own shop and can afford the machines the shop I work at is so busy I can't access the machines I want to test it
why aren't you using hydraulic supported vises? They can create higher clamping forces very easy i'm using some on the conventional machines and they work great, but you have to worry more about bending thin work pieces. if you say that you use a 4140 for example, i absolutely dont know what that is, because im in Austria we use another system, kinda annoying. but through it you make great videos, learned a lot from those and just get a new blue hose :)
Your timing is outstanding. I just received my Carve Smart kit yesterday. One question. How do you justify the $2000 price tag on the double Orange Vises?? One more thing. I use the Bore function in Fusion and set it for "In control" on the cutter comp. Amazing how close the holes are. I used them for bearing pockets and they are perfect.
Looks great. One question... why did you drill out the centre of the circles? Your tool to make the holes larger appeared to be wider than the hole you drilled.
Clive Flint even so called center cutting end mills dont cut or clear well when plunging. they will helix in much better with the hole center relieved. I try to drill larger than the cutter diameter and just rapid to the bottom and adaptive out but the next best thing is to drill about the same size as the cutter and helix down around an arc that has tool center in empty air, ie just smaller than its own diameter.
That makes sense. Sometimes it can be faster by the time you generate your code, load the tool in, touch it off etc etc. Especially for one off parts. Lol Thanks for the reply!
I am don't do this kind of work, I am a computer programmer. But you find it funny that the gauge pins are under size. I find this logical. If a hole is a perfect 1/4 inch size, but you want to verify this, then you want see if the 1/4 inch gauge pin will fit. If the 1/4 inch gauge pin is a perfect 1/4 inch size, then there is no way you can press it in. The gauge pin will only fit if it is somewhat smaller in size then the hole to be measured. (Sorry for my crappy english, it is not my native language).
PeterK6502 Gauge pins can come in either plus or minus sets. Plus is a about 2 tenths over the nominal size, minus 2 tenths under. It's so you can measure slip and press fit tolerances and gauge a hole to within 4 tenths. If a .2498 pin goes in, but a .2502 pin doesn't. You know you have a very accurate hole size.
Hey John, very nice work. How do you find the time to do all these videos, I know how much work doing this is!? Also I remember watching your videos years ago and thinking this guy is nuts (in good way) and last year I joined you with Tormach in my garage :-) I use Fogbuster as well and I get lot of mist in the enclosure, I feel it when I open up the door. What am I doing wrong?
Does Fusion not allow G41/G42 so you can sneak up on critical dimension without having to go back to the Cam, just correcting the tool diameter in the tool table?
Stefan Gotteswinter if you go into linking I believe you can specify cutter comp. It's a dropdown option where the option you want is calculated in controller. or something along those lines. im not near my copy of fusion right now.
You're comparing a single station cast vice to a fully machined and ground double station vice. Compare apples to apples and use the HDL6J instead of the D688 and you're in the same price range as an Orange, and don't have CarveSmart,, adjustable location center jaw, ability to use quick change pallets, ball lock, or any other added features the Orange has over the Kurts. The D688 sucks when being used in a HMC as well.
hrc-rr Apples to Apples would be vice to vice comparison not vice to sales comparison. This has less to do with single part runtime and more to do with quantity. Being able to pack more parts in the machine so I'm not standing there as often swapping out parts. Ditching both of my single station only Kurts and replacing them with two 6" 17.5" double station Oranges years ago was the best upgrade I made for primary workholding but I mainly make small parts, stuff less than 2" in Y typically. For anything big I swap to single station in under a minute. I can run twice as many parts at a time as I could before which frees me up to do other things in the shop while my machine does what it's supposed to be doing. I don't make money while the spindles stopped or while I'm standing at the doors swapping parts while everything else in the shop waits for me. I run high volume, and a lot of different parts. Holding myself back with outdated workholding because it's what the codgers say is "right" would just be silly. There's not one single benefit of a D688 over an Orange double aside from the cost, and it doesn't even compare since they're not even similar.
NYC CNC well I was thinking that's how they used. It be like making std jaws and then milling a profile in them on parallels instead of bolting them in place. I think the installed method would be most accurate. IMO. Thanks for the reply.
nyc cnc I'm thinking about buying an 1100 but I have no cad/cam knowledge and I've never been that good at math..but i want to learn and start out as a hobby. any words of wisdom on my situation thanks.
Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists. You can go download it right away and start learning. You certainly don't need to be great at math to do CNC machining with CAM.
You can still practice modeling parts and creating tool paths and run the simulations to verify your toolpaths. Not quite as good as having the machine but you can still learn a lot before you even buy one. I spent a lot of time learning CAM before I bought my 1100 and it made me more confident on making the purchase. I'm very glad I took the plunge.
hey John, question for you. I'm currently using a chop saw with abrasive cutoff wheels. I hate it. What are your thoughts on using the DeWalt and a bi metal blade for steel bar stock? up to around 1.5" diameter/square? Workable, or bad idea? A band saw isn't a good option right now, due to space issues in my garage, but the abrasive wheels suck so bad!
Thanks for the feedback. I know it's capable of it, just wondering your thoughts on suitability of it, and if it's significantly better than cutoff wheels. Considered a cold saw, but a bit more than I want to spend on an interim solution until we can get into a space with enough room for a band saw. I guess I'm gonna go ahead and pull the trigger on it and hope for the best. Thanks again for the feedback.
OK, I saw that the link you showed had an option to buy just the saw, or buy a saw+blade. So you'd say just getting the package that comes with a dewalt blade is the best approach?
PewDiePie is different, he's real different, all hiding with his pretty girl, then one day he's a bad ass, what did PewDiePie say to you? I'm going to leave this planet enterprise, I mean it, I'll do it!
I hope you are considering other peoples intellectual property and potential patent infringement litigation. Your clamp is a blatant rip-off of a Kant-twist and now you are making copies of someone else's grips. I don't know if you have permission to do this or not, but just because you are able to copy someone else's stuff doesn't mean you are allowed to. Posting this on the internet for all to see doesn't allow you to hide it either. I'm not trying to be an asshole, but getting sued by the manufacturer for patent infringement will not help your profit margin.
Barry Gerbracht The kant twist clamp is a design that has been around for a long time now, therefore the patent has run out. Also, he is not making these jaws to sell, just for personal use. It is not patent infringement unless he tries to sell the patented design. You can copy any patented design you want legally if you are just doing it for personal use.
The name "Kant Twist" is protected; not necessarily the device. The clamp is quite similar to the one illustrated in an example of one of my Engineering text books from the 1970's. ["Statics" by J.L Meriam. SI Edition 1975 ISBN 0471596094; Problem 7/28] And yes; I remember all(/only?) the stuff that's not important to pass exams. As I understand it, (I don't even play a lawyer on the Internet) Patents can only be maintained for a limited time unless the invention undergoes inventive development that is included in updated Patents. As for copying stuff, "fair use" applies in general. Even for Patents. If you make a copy so that you can more fully understand the functioning of the device; for education and you don't sell what you make for profit (using it yourself for profit is a grey area), then that is usually considered to be fair use. Keep in mind that making a copy of a manufactured item *tends* to cost more than buying the manufactured item; as manufacturing has inherent economies of scale. While it's very important to respect and look after everybody's intellectual property; don't get too hung up about it. The Patent pool for example has been overflowing with "bloody obvious" inventions ever since priorities changed to collecting fees and apparently pushing examiners skilled in the respective arts into the background; letting disputes be settled by a litigation-led economic recovery. In such an unintellectual legal climate, the well-funded lawyers will win most of the time as the law as it is practiced is obsessed with precedents and weight of evidence according to the laws of men; not the laws of nature. People who make stuff are compelled to obey the irrevocable laws of nature.
Simply building something that is patent protected isn't illegal, but if he was producing these for sale, then there's a problem. There is a concern with offering the prints to patrons I'm not sure if the print containing the information falls under copyright law, or if it infringes on patent law, but it definitely seems shady.
Barry Gerbracht It's not patent infringement unless he is making a direct profit off of it. Simply making an item for personal use does not infringe on any patent protection laws. Besides I believe the talon vice system is currently stuck in Patent Pending. Kant-Twist is a trademarked name, like Tylenol, or Band-Aid. He can't stamp "Kant-Twist" on anything he sells as it would be trademark infringement. However a "Kant-Twist" clamp is an item called a cantilever clamp. Which was indeed patented by the Kant Twist company, however that patent protection has run out over a decade ago.
Belias Phyre Considering that mitee bite lists all their dimensions for the system on their site and I believe even offers CAD models and prints free of charge. I don't think they would have any kind of patent or copyright infringement case. Mitee bite relies on the fact it costs more for an end user to make themselves then it does just to buy it from mitee bite. If you'd like me to ask them they're only about an hourish north of me 😁. I don't think they would mind though, they're pretty good people.
Your spastic excitement makes it understandable that you likely make lots of mistakes/misteps. Slow down. The fact that being so new and having enough work to support what your doing would seem to mean slowing down a notch or two would be wise.
cant someone be both good and excited about their work? granted i haven't seen it my self, but law of statistics says there must be at least ONE happy machinist out there... we can't all be miserable pricks...
Your enthusiasm is what makes this channel so fun to watch.
looking forward to the follow-up!
Tony! I was going to ask if you would adopt me, but then realized I'm too old. Instead, I propose that I come to your shop and look over your shoulder while drinking your beer (and occasionally silently judging your feeds and speeds).
What I did with my multiple Orange vises (3) is I took two long-ish strips of aluminum and bored a line of holes in them in to match up with the pin holes in the vises. That way I can not only keep them in a line, but also make the spacing between the vises exactly what I want. Seems to work, just something to think about.
You broke one of your golden rules when you set the work piece. Time for a new measure stick thingie. Hope you have a great day. Let me know if you ever come to Australia. The beer is on me
Damn, 60fps looks so smooth! Literally the first thing I noticed when the video started.
This will take me 10 years on a manual mill! cool stuff!
I was using Timsol 690XT, couldn't be happier with the switch the Qualichem :)
John, On your Haas you mentioned that you were traming all the vises in to each other. If you were holding a long part in all the vises I could see doing that. In the case of running separate parts in each vise you could and probably should run different fixture offsets on each vise (G54,G55,G56 Exc. You could probe this with your spindle probe) That way you wont have to worry that all the vises are in a line with each other, just parallel to the X axis.
Maybe you should mount them all on one sub plate... you're going to have to tram them in every time you have to take them off otherwise.
You should use the bored dowel holes in your table to align the vises, that is one of the reasons they are there.
All holes are bored and tapped, the first part of the hole is for a 5/8 dowel pin.
I didn't realize the tormach machines could keep tolerances below .001"... Very cool to see them making things that precise.
Greg's Garage
Bridgeports can hold under a .001.
Tolerances that small comes down to the machinist more than the machine when doing a single part.
Being able to repeat that tolerance 1,000 times over without a hitch comes down more to the machine.
I guess my naivety is this... I didn't think it would take that small of a movement in the software. Regardless, I'm impressed at fusion every time I uncover a new setting and I've been impressed with the Tormachs every time I see a part come out of them. Game changing stuff.
The more "open" 120° angle on spotting drills, helps a standard 118° drill make contact at the chisel point first. If the cutting lips are the first part of the drill to touch the edge of your starting hole, the drill is more likely to be pulled off centre.
Drill tip, then lips. Of course, in practice, it might not matter in all applications.
Most run it "backwards" so you can chamfer the hole during the spot. In practical applications it seems to make very little difference unless you're requiring extremely tight TP or drilling deep. But that's why spots come in 120 and drills in 118.
What a great tip. If you plan and accurately depth your spot until the it's 2mm larger than the final hole, you'll have a fairly neat ~1mm 30° chamfer.
Tool comping is a way to sneak up but you have to remember to remove those afterwards and I don't like messing with tool setups for a simple job. If you have to make them again you have to remember to put the comp in. Too much trouble can happen. What I would suggest is in CAM run a bunch of profiles ops each taking a bit more off then put a pause in between each pass (I have a script for spindle off, front home position, then pause). That way you can measure and if you want more you just hit the start button to go to the next profile pass. Less running around to the CAM computer and posting to take a little more off. Bonus is you can add how much you are taking off in the comment of each pass and when you hit what you want you can see in the code then update the CAM with the desired offset. If you have to make more you don't have to worry about comp.
Just a few thoughts.
Andrew
I wonder if you could use a Loc-Line flare nozzle and some compressed air to keep a little area clean for the camera on the Haas window. I want to see more of that 150? ipm drilling op!
Watching coolant getting blown in the Haas would make a great video!
That was great John a really good one, I have a small lathe now 9x20 but need to get a new bed or make one.really liked the jaw demonstration.
I'm pretty sure orange vise Eric has posted on instagram using that exact AB dovetail cutter to make the master jaws...obviously steel.
John, I noticed you set the tool height for the dovetail cutter after checking just one insert. I have a couple insert tools that have as much as .002 difference in the measured insert height. I have learned to measure all the inserts and use the tallest one for my height. I have not explored whether the difference is in the insert tolerance or seat position.
Amazing! now you have a new subscriber in Brazil. This jaws are new to me, and looks very useful, I will try to make them too.
What I've found with polished inserts is that they work fine with other grades, but they aren't as efficient. Since steel can cut fast and heavy with a blunter edge, that's where its most efficient. The thinner "non-ferrous" edge makes it so you can take finer cleanup passes, but their fragility means you can't run fast and make an efficient thick chip
yeah, though in some cases its ideal. I only really cut ti and stainless and on my 770 at least, the sharper edge made for a much better finish and less HP used than the titanium-specific inserts. Cheaper, too, by a large amount
Nice work john..love that vice..
Get an air knife for the window on your Haas or make a laminar flow nozzle. Should make visibility great. The spinny windows don't last.
Very nice, John. Looking forward to seeing how these turn out in your next video...
Best wishes,
Tom Z
This may sound silly, but is there any reason you did not order a sub-plate from orange to fit the table? Then all you would need to do is indicate the plate to the machine. But then again for the price of a sub-plate it might be cheaper to indicate all the vises in one at a time. Another project which might slow you down, would be to build your own plate right on the machine. Then you know that the plate is as flat to the machine as it will ever be. Congrats on the new haas and keep up the great work!
Did you potentially miss a trick here? If you had mounted the jaws in the dovetails as they would be mounted in use then you could have been super-confident that the pockets were all at the same depth when mounted.
or if you switch out a hydraulic motor on a drill unit and forget to check the rotation b4 sending the drill and screw up a part. but one thing I have had in mind is using a cnc machine to where the tool paths are done in a way that it's art don't cut to remove material but to remove just enough to leave the tool path soon though once I get my own shop and can afford the machines the shop I work at is so busy I can't access the machines I want to test it
Looks quite dangerous, removing the flycutter @ 16:30. Is there a safety switch for changing tools on the Tormach?
why aren't you using hydraulic supported vises?
They can create higher clamping forces very easy
i'm using some on the conventional machines and they work great, but you have to worry more about bending thin work pieces.
if you say that you use a 4140 for example, i absolutely dont know what that is, because im in Austria we use another system, kinda annoying.
but through it you make great videos, learned a lot from those
and just get a new blue hose :)
john nice work
I love the tap arm, But do you ever tap with the tormach?
Your timing is outstanding. I just received my Carve Smart kit yesterday.
One question. How do you justify the $2000 price tag on the double Orange Vises??
One more thing. I use the Bore function in Fusion and set it for "In control" on the cutter comp. Amazing how close the holes are. I used them for bearing pockets and they are perfect.
Looks great! Is there any concern of the holes deforming/elongating over time under clamping pressure since they're aluminum?
hi John, that turned out real nice!
Could you share whats your process in spot drilling in fusion?
thank you! :)
Looks great.
One question... why did you drill out the centre of the circles? Your tool to make the holes larger appeared to be wider than the hole you drilled.
The holes at 18:00 as they aren't large enough to get the next tool in completely.
Clive Flint
even so called center cutting end mills dont cut or clear well when plunging. they will helix in much better with the hole center relieved. I try to drill larger than the cutter diameter and just rapid to the bottom and adaptive out but the next best thing is to drill about the same size as the cutter and helix down around an arc that has tool center in empty air, ie just smaller than its own diameter.
Good job
Enjoyed!
Hey there, watched a few of your videos before. I am just curious as to why you don't thread the holes in your program?
That makes sense. Sometimes it can be faster by the time you generate your code, load the tool in, touch it off etc etc. Especially for one off parts. Lol Thanks for the reply!
May I ask why did you not tap the holes in the mill
I am don't do this kind of work, I am a computer programmer. But you find it funny that the gauge pins are under size. I find this logical. If a hole is a perfect 1/4 inch size, but you want to verify this, then you want see if the 1/4 inch gauge pin will fit. If the 1/4 inch gauge pin is a perfect 1/4 inch size, then there is no way you can press it in. The gauge pin will only fit if it is somewhat smaller in size then the hole to be measured. (Sorry for my crappy english, it is not my native language).
PeterK6502
Gauge pins can come in either plus or minus sets.
Plus is a about 2 tenths over the nominal size, minus 2 tenths under.
It's so you can measure slip and press fit tolerances and gauge a hole to within 4 tenths. If a .2498 pin goes in, but a .2502 pin doesn't. You know you have a very accurate hole size.
Hey John, very nice work. How do you find the time to do all these videos, I know how much work doing this is!?
Also I remember watching your videos years ago and thinking this guy is nuts (in good way) and last year I joined you with Tormach in my garage :-)
I use Fogbuster as well and I get lot of mist in the enclosure, I feel it when I open up the door. What am I doing wrong?
That aluminum glare is a "bling demon"
Does Fusion not allow G41/G42 so you can sneak up on critical dimension without having to go back to the Cam, just correcting the tool diameter in the tool table?
Stefan Gotteswinter if you go into linking I believe you can specify cutter comp. It's a dropdown option where the option you want is calculated in controller. or something along those lines. im not near my copy of fusion right now.
The Fusion Tormach post does not support G41/G42. If you want to use it you have to manually type the code.
thank you for noting this. The team has update the Tormach post. It will support cutter comp in the next release of Fusion 360
What's that e-stop button you have up there?
does conventional vs climb milling not matter on cnc machines with practically no table slop?
Oh. Thanks I never would have guessed that. My only experience is from running a manual mill with lots of table slop so that's opposite my instinct.
I just realized that those are 2000 dollar vises. and you want 4 on one machine. you can buy a whole Tormach for that price.
You're comparing a single station cast vice to a fully machined and ground double station vice. Compare apples to apples and use the HDL6J instead of the D688 and you're in the same price range as an Orange, and don't have CarveSmart,, adjustable location center jaw, ability to use quick change pallets, ball lock, or any other added features the Orange has over the Kurts. The D688 sucks when being used in a HMC as well.
hrc-rr Apples to Apples would be vice to vice comparison not vice to sales comparison. This has less to do with single part runtime and more to do with quantity. Being able to pack more parts in the machine so I'm not standing there as often swapping out parts. Ditching both of my single station only Kurts and replacing them with two 6" 17.5" double station Oranges years ago was the best upgrade I made for primary workholding but I mainly make small parts, stuff less than 2" in Y typically. For anything big I swap to single station in under a minute. I can run twice as many parts at a time as I could before which frees me up to do other things in the shop while my machine does what it's supposed to be doing. I don't make money while the spindles stopped or while I'm standing at the doors swapping parts while everything else in the shop waits for me. I run high volume, and a lot of different parts. Holding myself back with outdated workholding because it's what the codgers say is "right" would just be silly. There's not one single benefit of a D688 over an Orange double aside from the cost, and it doesn't even compare since they're not even similar.
What up Mark, what up Marty! Chicago
Where are the HAAS videos ??
John
Why did mill the pockets with the carvesmart dovetail installed instead of on parallels?
Didn't you
NYC CNC well I was thinking that's how they used. It be like making std jaws and then milling a profile in them on parallels instead of bolting them in place. I think the installed method would be most accurate. IMO.
Thanks for the reply.
SMW DIY Clamp Er-32 Collet wrench for the win!
Serious John... get a proper wrench ;)
nyc cnc I'm thinking about buying an 1100 but I have no cad/cam knowledge and I've never been that good at math..but i want to learn and start out as a hobby. any words of wisdom on my situation thanks.
I've been watching you since a little bit before my Christmas break from work great vids.
Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists. You can go download it right away and start learning. You certainly don't need to be great at math to do CNC machining with CAM.
Thanks
But I don't own a cnc yet
You can still practice modeling parts and creating tool paths and run the simulations to verify your toolpaths. Not quite as good as having the machine but you can still learn a lot before you even buy one. I spent a lot of time learning CAM before I bought my 1100 and it made me more confident on making the purchase. I'm very glad I took the plunge.
What's that yellow light?
Dude, shoulda just used a Jacobs chuck to hold the Dexi dovetail cutter. Totally works! =)
Nice!
I do not understand the cutting force for steel inch inches and in millimeters if I have 1500-3100 N/mm2 what is n means
N means force measured in 'newtons'
What Is Name Of Machine?
Mad a set a couple month ago
hey John, question for you. I'm currently using a chop saw with abrasive cutoff wheels. I hate it.
What are your thoughts on using the DeWalt and a bi metal blade for steel bar stock? up to around 1.5" diameter/square? Workable, or bad idea?
A band saw isn't a good option right now, due to space issues in my garage, but the abrasive wheels suck so bad!
Thanks for the feedback.
I know it's capable of it, just wondering your thoughts on suitability of it, and if it's significantly better than cutoff wheels.
Considered a cold saw, but a bit more than I want to spend on an interim solution until we can get into a space with enough room for a band saw.
I guess I'm gonna go ahead and pull the trigger on it and hope for the best. Thanks again for the feedback.
Followup question. What blade do you recommend?
OK, I saw that the link you showed had an option to buy just the saw, or buy a saw+blade.
So you'd say just getting the package that comes with a dewalt blade is the best approach?
different frame rate on your camera today?
NYC CNC Looks fantastic. The talking head parts looked especially well lit and looked sharp. Keep up the good work.
Was thinking the same thing. Looks way different than normal. Wondering if its a new cam or what.
PewDiePie is different, he's real different, all hiding with his pretty girl, then one day he's a bad ass, what did PewDiePie say to you? I'm going to leave this planet enterprise, I mean it, I'll do it!
All I was thinking "If he were to ever drop that set of gauge pins... Ugh"
Early squad!
Brad Pitt is going to release the Hunter Killer, HK (Hunter Killer) I know your Amish
Does CNC work give you insomnia? It seems to give me insomnia...
I hope you are considering other peoples intellectual property and potential patent infringement litigation. Your clamp is a blatant rip-off of a Kant-twist and now you are making copies of someone else's grips. I don't know if you have permission to do this or not, but just because you are able to copy someone else's stuff doesn't mean you are allowed to. Posting this on the internet for all to see doesn't allow you to hide it either. I'm not trying to be an asshole, but getting sued by the manufacturer for patent infringement will not help your profit margin.
Barry Gerbracht The kant twist clamp is a design that has been around for a long time now, therefore the patent has run out. Also, he is not making these jaws to sell, just for personal use. It is not patent infringement unless he tries to sell the patented design. You can copy any patented design you want legally if you are just doing it for personal use.
The name "Kant Twist" is protected; not necessarily the device. The clamp is quite similar to the one illustrated in an example of one of my Engineering text books from the 1970's. ["Statics" by J.L Meriam. SI Edition 1975 ISBN 0471596094; Problem 7/28] And yes; I remember all(/only?) the stuff that's not important to pass exams.
As I understand it, (I don't even play a lawyer on the Internet) Patents can only be maintained for a limited time unless the invention undergoes inventive development that is included in updated Patents.
As for copying stuff, "fair use" applies in general. Even for Patents. If you make a copy so that you can more fully understand the functioning of the device; for education and you don't sell what you make for profit (using it yourself for profit is a grey area), then that is usually considered to be fair use. Keep in mind that making a copy of a manufactured item *tends* to cost more than buying the manufactured item; as manufacturing has inherent economies of scale.
While it's very important to respect and look after everybody's intellectual property; don't get too hung up about it.
The Patent pool for example has been overflowing with "bloody obvious" inventions ever since priorities changed to collecting fees and apparently pushing examiners skilled in the respective arts into the background; letting disputes be settled by a litigation-led economic recovery. In such an unintellectual legal climate, the well-funded lawyers will win most of the time as the law as it is practiced is obsessed with precedents and weight of evidence according to the laws of men; not the laws of nature.
People who make stuff are compelled to obey the irrevocable laws of nature.
Simply building something that is patent protected isn't illegal, but if he was producing these for sale, then there's a problem. There is a concern with offering the prints to patrons I'm not sure if the print containing the information falls under copyright law, or if it infringes on patent law, but it definitely seems shady.
Barry Gerbracht
It's not patent infringement unless he is making a direct profit off of it. Simply making an item for personal use does not infringe on any patent protection laws.
Besides I believe the talon vice system is currently stuck in Patent Pending.
Kant-Twist is a trademarked name, like Tylenol, or Band-Aid. He can't stamp "Kant-Twist" on anything he sells as it would be trademark infringement.
However a "Kant-Twist" clamp is an item called a cantilever clamp. Which was indeed patented by the Kant Twist company, however that patent protection has run out over a decade ago.
Belias Phyre
Considering that mitee bite lists all their dimensions for the system on their site and I believe even offers CAD models and prints free of charge.
I don't think they would have any kind of patent or copyright infringement case.
Mitee bite relies on the fact it costs more for an end user to make themselves then it does just to buy it from mitee bite.
If you'd like me to ask them they're only about an hourish north of me 😁. I don't think they would mind though, they're pretty good people.
Your spastic excitement makes it understandable that you likely make lots of mistakes/misteps. Slow down. The fact that being so new and having enough work to support what your doing would seem to mean slowing down a notch or two would be wise.
cant someone be both good and excited about their work?
granted i haven't seen it my self, but law of statistics says there must be at least ONE happy machinist out there... we can't all be miserable pricks...
What are they supposed to machine? You teaching all these people to machine. SpaceX is what your supposed to machine, like Nissan making a Datsun